Quinta das Pedras – A Hidden Paradise Near Sintra

Posted on July 9, 2023 by Ziggy

How often do I write about a stay? After over 10 years, and hundreds of posts, I only remember three. A little farm near Aragona in Sicily, a winery in Tuscany, and our usual Turks and Caicos base where we’ve been staying since it was built. Portugal actually produced two stays worth writing about. Maybe a new blog is in order? Sleeping With Ziggy? Ok, I dont know why I went there.

But I am considering a few small changes to EWZ with design and one very unusual content tweak. Just to spice it up a bit, on a random post, I will add a very short show/movie review. I dont have the vocabulary arsenal of a movie reviewer (or food reviewer for that matter), but I’m a bit of a movie/show buff and got plenty to say and recommend. Any yeas or nays?

Speaking of streaming, when I sent a note to Ricardo, Quinta das Pedras’ passionate owner that I forgot to log off from Apple TV, he made it his mission to take care of it ASAP. Every single question or request throughout the booking process was answered within 5 minutes. Once you meet him you understand why.

Quinta das Pedras is a two room bed and breakfast in Belas, 15-20 minutes from Sintra. While its fairly close to Lisbon (20 minutes from Belém), I imagine most people, like us, pick it as their Sintra base, even though its not super convenient for Sintra either. You pick it for the pictures, the description and the 10 rating of the over 100 reviews on Booking. I’ve been using Booking.com for as long as I remember, and can’t remember ever seeing a property rated as such.

It’s virtually impossible to rate this place lower even if you find negatives. The kindness and attention to detail of the host, the gardens, the pool, and the countless of chachkies and collectibles throughout the property make it a 5 star experience for a 2 star price. We paid more than double to stay at a grand hotel in Philly last week, and the experience cant really compare.

Its a newish property that will most likely blossom into something you’ll need to book a year out. Ricardo’s grandparents essentially spent some time building a magnificent garden, and later on built a house near it. Inside the house and surroundings you’ll find many collectibles from their many travels from all over the world. From Zimbabwe to India, Israel, Ukraine.. etc. Its a museum, inside out.

The breakfast, and individual fruit salads alone worth the price of admission. Ricardo, the perfectionist, always there to take care of every need. He anticipates them like a three Michelin waiter. Just when you thought he’s taking care of your bedding, he’s outside the property directing traffic while you back out. It was like there were three of him.

But that’s not all. While communicating with Ricardo about the area food, he suggested to cook for us on one of the nights. Next thing you know, he’s running around with an apron setting up our table by the pool. A delicious Turkey with apricots, red wine and tarragon, with sides of broccoli and rice. We enjoyed it with the nice red we got from the Convento do Espinheiro in Evora (the other worthy writeup). Finished with a divine homemade choc mousse. A private meal by the pool for the price of an average restaurant.

As I mentioned the place has only two guest rooms. Perfect for two couples or a family. After a long day of palace hopping, the pool is extremely refreshing. That’s after you spend another hour walking around the property, taking the same pictures your took yesterday.

Quinta das Pedras

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Rui dos Leitões – A One-Hit Wonder Near Coimbra

Posted on July 5, 2023 by Ziggy

This is going to be quick. I think. I often say that and end up writing life stories that have nothing to do with the post. But this time I will make it my mission. Besides, there’s not much to show and tell in this case. We took plenty of other pictures, but as I will explain, I rather not show them. A first on EWZ. Restaurant photos that are not safe for work.

When you enter this legend, about 10km north of Coimbra, you will notice that every table has pretty much the same items. A huge plate of Suckling Pig with sliced oranges, a bubbly, French fries, and some veggies. French fries is something you’ll find all over Portugal, outside of haute joints. A churrascaria without potatoes is an experiment gone horribly wrong.

This is suckling pig country, and Rui dos Leitões might be its emperor. The only decision is how much pig. One kg was perfect for two hungry couples (including one hangry guide) on a late lunch on the way to Tomar. They do have what seems to be a full menu, but after around 3pm and before dinner time, I’m told you can only get the pig and the usual sides. While most whites, and certain reds will do, a popular pairing here is Spumante.

Lets just say Segovia is now home to our second favorite Suckling Pig. Segovia was the complete experience, with plenty of theatre. But Rui dos Leitões dished out a sensational tasting pieces of meat, without the dramatics. Since they let the pigs mature to 5 weeks, you get much more of the juicy flesh than Segovia where it’s mostly crispy skin of the much younger pigs. Younger pig means milkier flesh, and not enough of it. The oranges serve as a palate cleanser.

We finished with a tour of the ovens where we took the pictures I struggle with. If there are any images that may make me stop eat meat, these may be it. Ask for a tour after the meal. This is just the type of place that complements any Portugal food itinerary nicely. After you finish sucking the bones at Zé Manel dos Ossos in Coimbra (I believe owner recently passed), Uber your way to Rui dos Leitões for an experience you’ll be talking about for a long time.

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Angelo’s Pizzeria – The #1 Reason to Visit Philly

Posted on July 2, 2023 by Ziggy

There are many reasons to visit the City of Brotherly Love. Like, well.. hmm, I cant think of any right now. Give me a minute.. Oh ok, so there’s this bell that tourists are queuing up to see, but I hear its broken. There are also these famous steps where tourists run up and down. Such fun! And how can I forget the prison, Easter State something. See, plenty of things to do and see, but perhaps most importantly, to eat.

Philly gave birth to two of my favorite mini empires.. Han Dynasty, and Michael Solomonov’s. Hummus is not exactly the first or 10th thing that comes to mind when you think Philly. But between Zahav, Dizengoff, and Laser Wolf you will be hard pressed finding better Israeli food or hummus anywhere else. I’ve yet to set foot inside a Vetri place because good Italian is just too easy to find in NYC, but thats another big part of the local food puzzle.

But to me, first and foremost, its the Philly Cheesesteak. I met enough people who raised eyebrows at the notion of going to Philly for a greasy sandwich, but thats most likely because they simply havent had a good one. I can probably find a decent Philly Cheesesteak in NYC (Shorty’s is one). But everything I tried paled in comparison to my long time fave… John’s Roast Pork.

While tourists flock to the more accessibly popular 70’s boy names, Geno’s, Pats, Jim’s, we settled on the more local, remote John’s. But love can also be blind. At some point I woke up in cold sweat realizing that I liked John’s more than my family and friends. While my taste was more in tune with the local John’s fanatics, the cheese, or lack of wiz, and the overall flavor just wasnt appreciated nearly as much by my closest, namely Mrs Z.

Enter another boy’s name, Angelo. As in angels singing when you take your first bite of this beast. As a New Yorker, I dont know if I’ll ever try their pizza, also much hyped about, especially after a Barstool review a few years back. While many go for the great looking pies, the vast majority of the 30 or so last Saturday were waiting for the crown jewel sandwich.

The scene at Angelo’s is part of the experience. A doorman helps with the traffic, and directs you straight to a cashier. Inside the kitchen area is what looks like a dozen strong, factory like operation. The only problem is, and its not a small one, there’s nowhere to eat it. At least at John’s you have the outdoor space. We took a walk along the block, and after 30 minutes our sandwiches were ready.

We ate ours in the car across the street. Tight parking in that part of Philly. The first thing we noticed is the bread. A seeded roll, somewhat remarkably also baked in-house. I got mine with the suggested Cooper Sharp cheese and fried onions, while adding mushrooms to the mix. She got it naked with sweet peppers on the side. She liked hers a lot.

I cant help but use the “best I ever had” cliché every chance I have. But in this case I have very little doubt about that. The ribeye/cheese balance and quality, the bread, and the rest of the ingredients produced a very satisfying, rich bite. The bread especially made the bulk of the difference. I wasnt planning to write about this, hence took a few poor shots of this, but you can see it better in this most excellent post. Generally these sandwiches are not very photogenic, but once you have it, you start drooling over them pics.

As someone wrote on my Insta page, “Angelo’s will do that”. My loyalty to the fantastic John’s is in serious jeopardy. I cant speak for consistency, but this was just about perfect. A destination sandwich that will give the rocky steps you’ll need to do after, a little bit more meaning.

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Douro Valley – Of Pork, Wine Paint, and Penis Cookies

Posted on June 28, 2023 by Ziggy

Did I get your attention? Scroll down if you are just here for the cookie porn. But for the rest of you this post is all about our Douro day with Facebook group star Igor of Porto Tours and Transfers. Unless your trip is at least 6 months from now, forget it. You can try, but the dude is usually booked many months out. But you do have many options these days besides Igor, so dont despair.

This wasnt our first time seeing the valley. 12 years ago we explored it on our own, before Google Maps was a thing. Hitting dead ends, and dirt roads was just part of the adventure. I remember the feeling of finally finding Quinta de La Rosa, our most memorable lunch destination. Memorable for the view and attention mostly, as we were the lone guests. With Porto tourism increasing seemingly 10 fold since, eating at any Quinta facing the Duoro alone is a fantasy these days.

Quinta da Pacheca, undeniably one of the most interesting wineries we’ve ever come across. Its a stunner. Not small, not cheap, and it comes with its own resident artist, Oscar Rodriguez. You’ll see his work throughout the property. And before you know it, you are scratching heads at his studio trying to figure out how he’s able to create paintings with just 6 different kinds of wine.

We tasted a very respectable white, a robust red Reserva, and quite a potent 40 y/o Tawny. The Tawny alone worth the price of admission. Its the kind of property you want to spend some time, if not days (sleep in a giant wine barrel, anyone?). This is where you want to host your next wedding, or Gynecologist convention. The gynecologists may or may not have a problem with the bathroom glass doors and lack of privacy. What is it with Portugal and its fascination with bathroom glass doors.

Just across the river in Peso da Régua, O Maleiro was quite the tasty, ultra local treat for lunch. Family style is the name of the game. And there was plenty of game in the superb Alheira… boar, chicken, and plenty of spices. Grilled, not fried, made a difference. Its not particularly attractive after its sliced, but this was the best tasting sausage of the trip. Alheira was invented by jews in order to avoid expulsion. They hung sausages on their doors in order to show their solidarity, without revealing the true porkless recipe.

As satisfying as the grilled black pork and potatoes was, it was solidly out-staged by the juiciest pork loin this side of where you can find the juiciest pork loin. Served with a particularly addictive Feijao Frade – black eyed peas (or “mung beans” here) and kale salad. After the meal, you go to the side of the bar, and pour your own port. My kind of place.

We followed that mini feast with some road fruit shopping (those cherries!), a jaw dropping view point, and the sleepy town of Amarante for cookie porn. On our previous visit to Amarante, we somehow missed the penis cookies completely, but it turns out this town is totally obsessed with them. The history is hazy, but it seems like a weird way to honor patron saint São Gonçalo.

Apparently São Gonçalo had special skills, but not the kind your dirty mind assumes. He had special matchmaking powers where he would help an older female with low prospects find love. Besides the local festivals featuring all sorts of phallic cakes, its tradition for a man to give a penis shaped cookie to someone he desires. It works! I gave one to my friend Robert, and 20 minutes later he had a headache. Besides, the next day, the cookie got too hard! I knew I should have bought the one filled with cream. Ok, I’ll stop now.

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I Ate on Restaurant Row and Lived to Tell the Tale

Posted on June 23, 2023 by Ziggy

I apologize in advance for what you are about to read. Let’s just say I got a little bored with the usual format. You can just scroll down to the bottom line if thats what you want. This is a typical meal with my girls (two daughters, one wife).

Family member: “Where are we going for Father’s Day”

Dad: “Sicily Osteria”

Family member: “Ooooh, where’s that”

Dad: “Hmm, Hell’s Kitchen”

Family member: “Yas!!!!!”

Family member: “Sweet!!”

(Family approaches restaurant)

Family member: “What in the actual fuck”

Dad: “Its actually “what the actual fuck”, without the in”

Family member: “Who are you and what did you do with my dad”

Dad: “I will explain”

Family member: “I thought you said Hell’s Kitchen”

Dad: “It’s technically Hell’s Kitchen. Remember I used to give food tours here”

Family member: “Who are all these strange looking people”

Dad: “They are tourists”

(Family settles in a nice table outside)

Family member: “Explain!”

Dad: “Well, this place opened about a year ago. The menu is as Sicilian as it gets, the chef worked at Osteria Morini, and Marea. The owners are from…”

Family member: “Oooh Limoncello Spritz, I’ll have that”

Family member: “Please dont tell me you are ordering the sardine ragu special”

Dad: “I think the waiter meant Pasta Con le Sarde.”

Family member: “I dont know what that means”

Dad: “You had it in Palermo and you liked it. Its the one with the raisins”

(food starts to arrive)

Family member: “Yummmm!!! Love the pita chips”

Dad: “Its actually Pannelle, made from chickpeas”

Family member: “Wow, best Arancini ever”

Dad: “Its Arancino, since its one. And yeah this is yummy”

Family Member: “Whats up with the schweddy balls”

Dad: Thats Crocche, fried potato balls”

Family member: “Why is everyone so old looking”

Dad: “Tourists tend to be older. This is not East Village”

Family member: “Nor Hell’s Kitchen evidently”

Dad: “It’s called Restaurant Row, technically Hell’s Kitchen”

Family member: “So what is the deal with this place anyway”

Dad: “Well, owners are actually from Sicily. They also own bocca di bacco, and…

Family member: “So, what is everyone watching?”

Family member: “Black Mirror is out!”

Family member: “OMG I love that show!”

(more food arrives)

Family member: “Any guesses what Italian region the waiter is from”

Dad: “I think he is from the region of Venezuela”

Family member: “What about the chef. What region is he from?”

Dad: “Actually he grew up in a Kibbutz in Israel. His name is Asi Maman and he’s very talented.”

Family member: “So no one here is actually Italian, and this is supposedly Hell’s Kitchen. Ok, got it”

Family member: “Well this pasta is yummy, but weird looking”

Dad: “Its Busiate alla Trapanese, and I agree its delicious”

Family member: “Let me guess, another Palermo specialty?”

Dad: “No, Trapani. Its in the name, and we ate this there”

Family member: “Sorry again for throwing out your #1 dad mug”

Dad: “What will remind me now”

Family member: “You are ruining the surprise”

Family member: This Couscous needs more Couscous”

Dad: “Its done on purpose like that so it wont absorb all the broth. It makes for tastier seafood”

Family member: “This is sick! How did you find this place”

Dad: “Yellow Pages”

Family member: “You know, your dad jokes dont work well with us”

Dad: “I found it on Eater when it first opened, looked at the menu, and..”

Family member: “I dont know what to wear tomorrow”

Family member: “They say rain in the AM’

(pistachio lava cake arrives)

Family member: “OMG, OMG”

Family member: “Slay!”

Dad: “I think I just peed a little”

Family member: “You really need to see someone about that”

Family member: “I dont know why we continue to doubt you”

Family member: “Good pick dad!”

The Bottom Line: Surprisingly strong meal among the tourists. Restaurant Row changed a little during the last few years due to the pandemic as some places had to close and new owners dont want to keep relying on tourists. While I think the change is temporary, places like Sicily Osteria, and EAK Ramen are probably here to stay (I hope). Sicily Osteria instantly becomes one of the most interesting Italian in HK, and perhaps the most authentic Sicilian menu in NYC. The pastas lean on the sweet side as its done in the south, but enjoyable nonetheless.

Sicily Osteria
330 W 46th St (Hell’s Kitchen)
Recommended Dishes: Pannelle, Arancino, Crocche, Busiate, Couscous, Pistachio Lava Cake

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: , , , , | 2 Comments

Jesus é Goês {Lisbon} – Connecting the Culinary Dots

Posted on June 19, 2023 by Ziggy

After two weeks of well over a dozen stellar meals in Portugal, deciding on what to write about first is like asking who’s your favorite child. Easy. The one more likely to talk about me on the shrink couch. You would assume its the opposite. But when your goal as a dad is to distribute the love equally, and for mom to get the bulk of the blame, its really not.

I should have taken a picture of the facial expression of the hotel manager, when I told him I cancelled the super popular, Facebook darling Ponto Final, and their dreamy sunset table, for a gloomy (in comparison) table at a Goan restaurant he never even heard of. Its like I asked him if I can borrow his girlfriend for a day. I spared him the laundry list of reasons for this move. But here I am, writing my first Portugal food post about an “Indian” restaurant.

I essentially subbed one “Somebody Feed Phil” place for another. I dont normally make it a habit to visit Phil places, but that Lisbon episode, and some others, make them hard to ignore. You feel the urge to travel like Phil, and meet the people he met. Unfortunately, minutes after we sat down at Jesus é Goês, we learned of the tragic death of Jesus only a few months prior. He died of an enlarged heart in his 40’s. They closed for about a month, and now at the helm is his partner. “He always told me that one day I will need to actually do some work”.

Why Goan food in Lisbon? Such an excellent question Timmy. The story starts with the age of discovery, and Vasco de Gama becoming the first to link Europe and Asia. Goa and many other territories like Mozambique, Macao, even Brazil became Portuguese colonies. After India took back Goa in 1961, Many Goans had the option of obtaining Portuguese citizenship, and move to Portugal. Even today, anyone born before 1962 is eligible.

Today Lisbon has a sizeable Indian and Bangladeshi community. But their history is not as intermingled. The best example of that Goan/Portuguese marriage is the Vindaloo. Its traced to a Portuguese dish called Carne Vinha De Alhos, pork marinated with wine and garlic. After introducing this to the Goans, they switched from wine to vinegar, and added lots of spices in order to preserve the meat. Similar story with Pasteis de Nata and Macao, and why you have egg tarts in Chinese bakeries.

Surprisingly there’s no Vindaloo on the colorful Jesus é Goês menu. I’m sure Jesus would have had a perfectly sound explanation for that. But there’s plenty of spice and pleasant heat throughout especially with the mains. The Cafreal de Frango, Shrimp Curry, and the star of show Cabrito Xacuti have the kind of complexity and balance that fits my taste buds like a glove. You’ll be reaching for them well after you cant eat anymore.

Jesus, who spent many years working as a chef all over Lisbon, shows his creativity and even playfulness throughout, especially with the “Holy Burger”. A tiny spice filled burger topped with an egg I didnt know can be poached as such.. Like mini umami bombs on a spoon. Even something more familiar sounding like the Samosas were thin, flaky, and packed with so much more flavor than the doughy ones we are accustomed to.

Simply put, this was some of the best Indian food we’ve had in a long time. And it was in Portugal, where spicy isnt really embraced. Its a small place. Reservations help as we’ve seen enough get turned away. Jesus legacy lives on large. Same menu, same cooks, and a truly special place I wholeheartedly recommend.

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Pinch Chinese – Cousin Ping Say Get The Chicken

Posted on June 16, 2023 by Ziggy

A quick reminder that Pinch Chinese is still dishing out superb stuff in Soho. A great place to come solo, as a couple, family meeting your kid’s new boyfriend, or any group for that matter to try some of the larger dishes like the crab, and the sensational Wind Sand Chicken which I’ve written about before. Its the sum of all parts kinda dish. Not only you got the quality well marinated meet, juicy flesh, but you’ll be hard pressed finding crispier, more delicious skin.

They can just remove the skin, and serve it as a side dish as weird as it sounds. In Coimbra, Portugal a bones dish consisting of, you guesses it, bones, gained much fame over time. So I dont see a reason why this Cholesterol Special would’nt work. Ok, maybe if they dont call it the Cholesterol Special, but then again, it may be marketing brilliance.

But the one dish we’ve been getting from day one here is the cumin ribs. And the description “Fall of the bones – Jocelyn from Yelp” never gets old. Its quite remarkable that cumin perfume is not a thing. You smell it from the next table as soon as you sit down and you cant meaningfully participate in any conversation until you get it.

The soup dumplings here are a cure for summertime sadness. You may even pinch yourself after the first bite. Wait, is that the reason for the name, or is it due to the pinching or gripping process when you lift those babies. They are tiny but explosive umami bombs. Another must and new discovery for us is the braised pork with white rice and a mustardy greens concoction. Like elevated lunch box comfort food I would order again and again.

There were however some small misses last time. Not big but surprising considering the excellence and attention to detail over the years. The eggplant in garlic was overly sweet and not very garlicky this time. The Dan Dan Noodles tasted a little off (perhaps the star anise overwhelmed). Nevertheless, another enjoyable meal at this Z-List original

Original Post

Pinch Chinese
177 Prince St (Soho)
Recommended Dishes: Seafood/Pork Dumplings, Cumin Ribs, Wind Sand Chicken, Spicy Wontons, String Beans, Snow Crab in Chinese Restaurant, Steak Fried Rice, Taiwanese Beef Noodle, Braised Pork

Categories: New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

This is Evora

Posted on June 12, 2023 by Ziggy

How do you convert a building into the number one attraction in your city? Very simple. You dig out all the bodies from area cemeteries. Hire an interior decorator to help with the bones and skulls placement in the building. Display a cute welcome sign in the entrance, something like “we bones in here wait for yours to join us”. And voila! That’s pretty much what three monks did with roughly 5000 monk corpses at the Chapel of the Bones. One of many interesting sites to keep visitors entertained in and around the Alentejo capital of Evora.

There’s a certain atmosphere in Evora that is lacking in frenzied Porto and Lisbon. Most visitors come here on a day trip from Lisbon, either as part of a tour or on their own. You can see the contrast when visiting the cathedral before and after lunch when the tours start to disperse. This is why its best to stick around a few days. If you do, make it at the historic Convento do Espinheiro, a ridiculously affordable 5 star former convent, a few miles north of the city.

In addition to the bone church, and the cathedral with its reachable Insta roof, you’ll want to see the striking Roman Temple, preferably in the afternoon when the light is less harsh. Almost every other corner of Evora is a reminder of its complicated past. Mercadores (merchants) and Moeda (coin) streets in the Jewish quarter go back to the days when Jews did much of the banking. In the middle ages you were forbidden to lend money to members of your faith, so the majority Christians relied on the minority Jews.

Very few trippers make it to the University, second oldest in the country after Coimbra. Its main attraction, the Colégio do Espírito Santo building has a striking facade, and a game called “Lets find the library”. I can give you directions, but you’d be missing all the fun we had. Right next to the University is the beautiful Espírito Santo church that requires a separate ticket. Here you can play “lets find the turkey”. The one that commemorates the Jesuit missions to America. Or just chill at the beautiful public garden, chasing peacocks next to folly ruins.

University

And then there’s the Alentejo food and wine. Rustic, Tuscan-like fare, a welcomed change from the seafood heavy coast. Old timers like Fialho, and Taberna Típica Quarta-feira are intermingled with the new kids like Origens, bringing a new wave of flavors. I get the sense that Evora is becoming a food powerhouse. More on that soon.

And there’s no shortage of day trips from Evora. Estremoz, Elvas, the jaw dropping Monsaraz, Marvão, and the beautiful, still undiscovered Castelo de Vide just to name a few. A tour and lunch at the Michelined Herdade do Esporão, and Monsaraz is an easy and rewarding pair. And if you want to learn about the area cork production, David of Cortiçarte will help with that with much humor. Portugal supplies over 60% of the world’s cork.

Make sure to include Evora in your Portugal plans.

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Somtum Der – Now Derring in Red Hook

Posted on May 25, 2023 by Ziggy

In the land of the new and exciting, its often easy to overlook the established and proven. The “What’s new” questions on social media by people that visited the city once or twice before have always been a mystery to me. Did you try any of the other 99.9%, like Pig and Khao, Minetta Tavern, Popina, etc etc. Are they stale? What exactly is wrong with them? There’s always something new and exciting, but the real question is who will make it past year one, or year ten. 60% fail in their first year, 80% fail within five, and very few make it to 10.

The Z-List Thai staple Somtum Der not only keep soldiering on in the East Village but is now doing it in Red Hook, Brooklyn. While East Village is ultra competitive as I keep saying for years due to the lack of tourists and abundance of students, opening in no-train Red Hook is just another level of Chutzpah. Generally Thai restaurants in Red Hook and neighboring Columbia Street Waterfront District (because real estate firms havent come up with a cute 2 syllable name) dont last very long. See Pok Pok, Krok .

Somtum Der was one of the first to introduce New Yorkers to fiery Isan food when it opened in East Village a decade ago. That was only a year after opening in Bangkok. Both places are in the Michelin guide if you care about such things. In fact the East Village location even got a Michelin star that lasted a whole 5 minutes. The new Red Hook location has exactly the same menu, with pictures. If you dont like menus with colorful pictures, you are probably not enjoying life to the fullest. If we were to give awards to menus with the most vibrant pictures, Somtum Der would be an easy three Kodak recipient.

While Somtum is known for the various namesake papaya salads, I der you to find a more flavorful bird in NYC. Just seeing the picture on the menu for me is like a kid hearing the ice cream truck. Along with the marinaded pork with the soothing sticky rice lollypops, the fried chicken thighs is a usual must. The thing about Somtum Der is that they can take any old, stale, dry meat or fish, and make it taste amazing. Thats not to say that its the type of meat we usually encounter here, but that’s the type of seasoning and marinades they use. Its sort of what Isan food is all about. Preserving meat and fish in historically poor areas.

Its also worth noting the weekly specials, in particular the sickest mushroom salad I ever had, Goi Hed. (invented by someone who thought the Beech mushrooms reminded them of uncircumcised penises). Out of the regulars, last time in Brooklyn we also enjoyed the garlic beef with rice, and a serviceable Pad Thai. My first Pad Thai in maybe 20 years. Blame the pictures.

The cool thing about the Brooklyn location is that it has a lovely garden that feels like you are in a neighbor’s BBQ. Another plus is that its in the heart of Red Hook, walking distance to the legendary Steve’s Key Lime Pie, an important former stop on my Brooklyn tour (RIP). I go straight for the raspberry Swingle these days. Might as well also check out the Merchant Stores Building next door. If it doesnt work out with Mrs Z, my next wedding venue will be at the The Liberty Warehouse. But next month will be 30 years, so who really knows…

Somtum Der
85 Avenue A (East Village)
380 Van Brunt St (Red Hook)
Recommended Dishes: Fried Chicken, Marinadet grilled pork, Mushroom salad (special), Garlic beef

Categories: Brooklyn, East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Foul Witch – The Witches of Easthood

Posted on May 16, 2023 by Ziggy

The Witches of Eastwick is a 1987 flick starring the last remaining aging celebrities who didnt declare their political alliances (minus Cher). Foul Witch is a 6 month old restaurant in East Village. To be precise on a rather strange corner of Ave A (Houston), dangerously close to the tourist central Katz’s Deli, and Il laboratorio del gelato. By dangerous I mean you may be tempted to consider them for your first and last course, but I’m here to convince you otherwise, at least for the first course.

Foul Witch is the highly anticipated New American/Italian from the people that brought us Roberta’s, Roberta’s to-go, and Roberta’s in [name any food hall]. It seems like Roberta’s pizza footprints are all over the city, including in the nearby Market Line food hall in the form of a sound NY style pizza by an alumni. But with the now closed two Michelin Blanca, Carlo Mirarchi and co. long proved that there’s much more than pizza up their sleeves.

The hype surrounding Foul Witch means in order to reserve a table, you may want to move to Sidney Australia for a few months where ressies open in the middle of the day. Unless you are a night owl, its virtually impossible to do so here. Are there day owls? I thought all owls are night owls by definition. I dont understand the rationale of releasing reservations at midnight, as oppose to 9 or 10 am as some are doing for us day owls.

Then how did you score one Ziggy? Another outstanding question Timmy. I tried for months. I must have had ‘Notify’ on for many days which for me rarely works. My plan was to arrive 15 minutes prior to opening and get seats at the bar. Instead, early in the morning on the day of, I had two tabs open on Resy (Claud, the other one) and lo and behold, after only a few hundred refreshes, a 5 PM spot opened up. I pounced like a morning puma.

I think every meal at Foul Witch should start with the “Fire and Ice”. Ice for creamy Stracciatella, Fire for ‘Nduja, that glorious spreadable Calabrian goodness. Why not just call it Stracciatella and ‘Nduja. Its not like the rest of the menu is a puzzle. Extra Brownie point for the the delicious free bread in today’s $10 bread NYC. And another brownie for room temp spreadable butter, another NYC luxury. Minus one brownie for no brownies on the menu.

The Veal Tortellini in Brodo is some serious witchcraft. In a very Italian fashion, big, deep flavors come from very little meat. And that sweetness from the amaretto in the Brodo adds another layer. Ingredients, and attention to detail are key as expected, and its especially evident in the Sunchoke Caramelle. Freakishly good candy shaped pasta with lemon, and poppyseeds.

The menu changes more often than the one shown online, so you may be disappointed or thrilled. And while the prices seem fair, you will be tempted to order more than the usual two dish per. One reason is that some of the smaller items like the excellent buttery Sorana Beans are more like glorified sides you’d want to pair with the mains.

The lone main we tried was also the lone miss. The roasted shoulder of goat had a nice flavor, but lacking in texture, and a bit too much gristle for our taste. The buttered turnips and ramps were the best part of the dish. Oh, I just realized why. Buttered! We skipped dessert.

Italian craft beer lovers would be in beer heaven at Foul Witch. Although I really liked my aromatic Portuguese white Douro blend, I’m not skipping the beer next time. Two drinks, 5 dishes, tip/tax amounted to around $200. The space is comfortable, and intimate. As one would expect, friendly and efficient staff, especially Arlet the Sommelier. Go! If you can get in.

Foul Witch
15 Avenue A (East Village)
Recommended Dishes: Fire and Ice, Veal Tortellini, Sunchoke Caramelle, Sorana Beans

Ave Q art on Ave A

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

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