I have to make this one brief. Got much on the plate this week. I cant even take the time to think of a better title, but this one is pretty telling once you understand. Kjun is a tiny, and I mean tiny, hole in the wall with a big soul in Murray Hill. The owner is Jae Jung, born in Seoul, trained in NOLA, refined in NYC as her bio so cleverly puts it.
Jung’s resume is one of the most impressive I’ve seen (August, Herbstaint, and all sorts of Michelined NYC establishments), and so is her cooking that naturally morphed into a Korean/Cajun mashup. Hence the name, Kjun. This is her first solo project. While we dont have a shortage of of Korean (especially in that area), nor Cajun, or even NOLA inspired Korean (Haenyeo in Park slope), I cant think of anything remotely like Kjun.
From the starters the Boudin Balls and chicken liver pate were particularly strong. Four explosive Schweddy balls stuffed with starch noodles instead of rice. The buttery and immensely flavorful pate that no one talks about might be the unsung hero. Soy marinated deviled eggs were fine but not as memorable as others. Same for the Okra Kimchi that got boring even as a side. The forgettable stuff here are only that because of the unforgettable.
All the larger dishes were solid especially the Jambalaya featuring a nice cabbage Kimchi action and juicy mixed meat. Beautiful clean flavors that stay with you for a some time. The fried chicken was above average, though I wouldn’t go as far as calling it one of the best in town as Pete Wells did. It was nicely marinated but a bit on the greasy side and too large to work with on such small tables. Sharing it for three required some planning.
We also enjoyed the cheesy grits with Andouille. Quite sweet for Andouille but it worked. For dessert we much preferred the Dalgona Banana Foster over their version of pecan pie. Think a Banana Foster and Tiramisu love child. You also get a free delicious probiotic drink at the end, and a welcoming starter bite at the beginning to get the juices flowing. Everything about the place is quirky including the stools.
Just to emphasize and help visualize, Kjun is the size of a small coffee shop. Wells jokingly compared it to a van, but its really not much bigger than a U-haul truck. The three of us got a round table that would normally be reserved for one or two. But not only we managed, I dont get a sense from reading reviews that its much of a problem for others. Perhaps most understand that its a small price to pay, and its part of the charm. This one is a major Go!
Kjun 154 E 39th St (Murray Hill) Recommended Dishes: Chicken liver pate, Boudin Balls, Jambalaya, Grits with Andouille, Banana Foster
Yes, Portland Oregon is weird. Even for a New Yorker. Some of the quirkiness you see in East Village or Washington Square Park like ask a puppet for advice is just another corner in Portland. Same for how people generally look and dress. All you need is a 5 minute walk down Alberta Arts District to see that you are not in Kansas anymore. They have an annual nude bike race for Christ’s sake. Even the birds are weird, and possibly stoned. You’d think when a car is approaching they’d scoot faster out of the way, but they take their time and sometimes cause mini traffic jams.
For a place with the population size of Staten Island, the food scene is just ridiculous. They dont just have food trucks or carts, they got islands of them called pods. Like outdoor food courts. Around 500 food carts dispersed all over the city, and none are the same. Add a tremendous restaurant scene to the mix and you got a foodie paradise. I may have lost some sleep trying to sort out the food schedule. Being close to food rich Alberta complicated matters more. More on the food later.
Japanese Gardens
But that’s not nearly all. Portland is not the most attractive city I’ve seen. But it’s parks and gardens like the Japanese garden are world class. You can do some serious forest bathing here between Mt Tabor, the Grotto (62 acres sanctuary), and the mother of all forests, Forest Park where you can hike to the picture perfect Pittock Mansion. Portland’s collection of trees are impressive to say the least.
Other than the parks, Portland’s charm is in it’s neighborhoods. The Northwest District, especially the area around 23rd Ave is fun to explore, day or night. You’ll get a different feel once you cross the river to the lively Mississippi Ave, Williams, and the vibrant Alberta. Staying in one of those areas instead of the downtown area where most tourists (and many homeless) stay is the conventional wisdom these days.
Multnomah
But to me the biggest draw other than the food scene, is the proximity to various natural wonders. Half an hour away is Columbia River Gorge and its very accessible world class waterfalls. If you wont get Iceland vibes at Latourell Falls with its basalt, you will surely get it at Multnomah. You dont need to walk much from the parking lot for the classic shot. After chasing waterfalls, the town of Hood River conveniently awaits with its breweries and art galleries. You can either continue to Mt Hood, or come back from the Washington side of the river for another picturesque drive.
70 miles south you have Silver Falls State Park and its stunning South Fall. Dont even bother looking at pictures of this one, as its something you need to see and experience. A dramatic ending (or beginning) to a beautiful 3-5 mile hike. Then after a coffee stop in Salem, proceed to Willamette Valley, Oregon’s Wine Country. From little Iceland to little Tuscany, though with more than 500 wineries perhaps not that little. Consider Trisaetum winery, for the wine and the above average Charcuterie board.
Portland’s problems are in full display. But so is everything else that’s not going away, and that you wont see mentioned in the media. Cant wait to come back to see the rest.
The Hell’s Kitchen Survival Guide is dead! Long live the Hell’s Kitchen Survival Guide! The pandemic and other unforeseen circumstances did quite the number on the Hell’s Kitchen dining scene. So many great places closed, making the old guide, the bread and butter of this site (in terms of eyeballs, not dollars. I have no interest in making money off of this) essentially useless. Since I dont work in HK anymore (but still spend plenty of time), I have no desire to revive and update the old guide as I used to do. Instead, I will give you my current top 10.
Overall I’m noticing a slow shift. A crazy amount of international offerings, with Chinese and Korean especially beginning to dominate. Eater went as far as calling Hell’s Kitchen our newest Chinatown, but I think its way premature, and you can probably still get better Thai or even Italian these days. Not a whole lot of surprises here if you’ve been following me for a while. I will try to update this from time to time, unless, you know, we get another pandemic. In that case, stay tuned for the Terrific 5!
Pure Thai Cookhouse
No shock here. I’ve been talking about Pure since it was called Pure Thai Shophouse (Chipotle lawyers forced them to change the name! Long but funny story) many moons ago. Many great Thai open and closed over the years in an area that hasnt seen a Thai shortage in over two decades. But Pure just keeps chugging along, with pretty much the same flavor packed menu since day one. And once you try much of the menu like me, the daily specials will keep you entertained.
LumLum
Remember when I wrote “many great Thai open and closed over the years in the area”? Well, one of them kinda opened with a bang. It took me a while to finally make it (not from lack of trying), and now I cant get enough. Its a bit elevated from the usual HK Thai, and quite the transformation from the previous tenant, Survival Guide darling Pam Real. They essentially got both seafood and meat departments covered with superb dishes like Steamed Fish, Crab Curry, Crying Tiger. But classics like Pad Ki Mao, and Panang Curry with beef should not be overlooked.
Dell’anima
Do you capitalize the D or not, one of the mysteries surrounding this unconventional Italian in Gotham West Market. But one thing is certain, chef Andrew Whitney and Co. can flat out cook. The far west location makes it still unknown to most visitors, but these guys essentially put Italian cuisine on the Hell’s Kitchen map since they moved from West Village. And in order to make it this far west and this long, it means they are doing something right. Either with its sick Tajarin Alla Carbonara, the stupendous Pollo al Diavolo, or anything really.
Blue Ribbon Sushi
Jack of all trades, master of many. Its almost a shame to have Sushi in the name in this case, as they do so many things very well. In fact, I rarely get sushi here, even though it’s always been top quality. Fried chicken, the sensational oxtail fried rice, and my favorite squid in the city, simply sauteed with ginger and garlic are the usual suspects. Sometimes steak when I’m feeling naughty. Slowly but surely BR has become a staple in the kitchen, even though its inside a hotel.
Ippudo
Talking about staples, here’s another one. The fact that Ippudo is now a mini chain, and the vast amount of Ramen options in Hell’s Kitchen these days, should not take away from the fact that its still one of the best area options. On the contrary, the waits arent nearly as long these days. We’ve tried many Ramen spots over the years, including other Ippudos, but the vibe/atmosphere/taste combination of “Westside” is still unbeatable.
Sicily Osteria
Probably the most important addition to the hood during the last few years. From the outside it looks like just another pretty face on super touristy Restaurant Row. But its actually one of the most Sicilian rich menus I’ve ever seen in NYC, headed by an Osteria Morini, Marea alum. The snacks including the Arancino and Pannelle are outstanding. Fantastic Busiate alla Trapanese, Couscous, and the signature Pistachio Lava Cake.
Le Sia
Ever since they said Sia to East Village and moved to the kitchen, they instantly became the most interesting Chinese around. Its Szechuan(ish) with a Cajun twist. And judging by the hefty delivery business, and being packed on a nightly basis (vast majority Chinese), its no longer a secret. You got your cumin ladened skewers (wings, cauliflower!), an array of tangy seafood boils including crawfish (though I’m partial to the snow crab), the ultra garlicky eggplant. And on a recent visit we discovered another crowd pleaser, Mongolian Beef.
Don Antonio
Some may be surprised that I omitted HKSG darling Capizzi here, especially considering Capizzi is closer to a traditional NY pizza parlor. But I just think that Don Antonio makes the best pizza around, and one of the better Diavolas in the city. That thick spicy Soppressata in simply unmatched. I tried quite a few pies over the years including the signature “Montanara” (fried pizza) but eventually settled on the Diavola. This is a classic Neapolitan where the crust is thin and softer than NY style.
Danji
Sadly as of this writing Danj is still closed due to fire at the unlicensed smoke shop next door. But I just gotta list Korean pioneer Hooni Kim’s flagship. When he’s not judging cooking competitions in South Korea, he’s doing all sorts of magic in NYC. Meanwhile you can find him at his latest venture, Little Banchan Shop in LIC. But Danji and my favorite tofu dish in the city cant open soon enough.
Sullivan Street Bakery
Locals gonna hate me for mentioning this one. The little bakery that could, expended, renovated, and became a giant. You’ll find their bread in restaurants and shops all over the city (this is why its no longer free). But inside you’ll find the same loafs, Focaccia, and first rate pastries like Bombolini, and Canotto. Author, James Beard award winner Jim Lahey opened a hole in the wall in 1994 and the rest is history.
Portugal surprised us with its quality and depth in the food department. By the last day, we had an inside joke when we talked about how consistently well we ate on this trip. We would take turns saying “well, there was that pizza place”, referring to a Porto meal that became the lone clear failure. A small price to pay when you wing it after lunch at the brilliant Taberna Dos Mercadores, but it stuck out like a sort thumb by the end.
The Lisbon meals were particularly noteworthy as we hit one jackpot after another. Just when you thought it could not possibly get better, it did again and again. Even some celebrity sightings to boot. Talking about celebrities, last week I met Phil Rosenthal outside the Hudson theater. We both ended up sitting fairly close to each other, seeing Alex Edelman’s last show, Just For US (I actually purchased the last two tickets of the last show. You would think there would be prizes for such things). We had a very quick chat about one of his Lisbon picks below. Of course I didnt tell him about the one I cancelled.
Tapisco
Alma’s affordable little sister is not exactly a Lisbon secret, but just outside tourist central. While we were there, service was a little tied up, entertaining a mega celebrity two tables over. For privacy reasons I won’t reveal the name, but it rhymes with Emeril Shmegasse. Stellar tapas and larger rice plates like the superb Octopus rice (above). La bomba, a riff on the Barcelona snack is the bomb. Jamon and tomato toast, so simple yet so delicious. A picture perfect, traditional Bacalhau à brás (bottom). But I cant imagine one can go wrong with anything here.
Jesus é Goês
Following the footsteps of Phil Rosenthal, and the main topic of conversation on my encounter with Phil the other day. Phenomenal Goan cooking, and surprisingly a good amount of pleasant heat throughout. The Portuguese usually arent keen on spicy. The specialty of the house is the holy burgers that come with poached egg on a spoon (above). Like little umami bombs. And the curries, like Goatling Xacuti and Chicken Cafreal feature just the kind of complexity I look for.
O Velho Eurico
Reserving tables in Portugal can be trickier than Paris or NYC. O Velho Eurico is exhibit Z, for the young and talented Zé Paulo Rocha. You essentially need to start reserving in Porto and Lisbon three to five months prior. Eurico has a north Brooklyn, sort of hipster feel to it. But with such elevated cooking for a third of the price, where do I sign. Delicate cold Bacalhau salad. Plump and succulent Piri piri shrimp. Nice use of fruits and sauces throughout, like the strips of melt in your mouth peppery pork belly with orange. Excellent fried rabbit with a creamy dill sauce (my fave, above). Just some of the awesomeness you may find here.
Ramiro
I’m not exactly listing state secrets here. We liked Ramiro so much when we first “discovered” it 12 years ago, that I would be risking sleeping in the shower (because we didnt have a couch) if I didnt book it again. Not much has changed as expected from the old timer. Outstanding prawns in all shapes and sizes, especially when they come sizzling in ultra garlicky oil. The tiger prawns in particular are outrageous (above). And this is a good opportunity to lose your Percebes virginity.
Churrasqueira do Marquês
Maybe time to counter the above with a state secret. Although walking distance to tourist central Belem, very few tourists make it to the Ajuda neighborhood. Grilled chicken is not only the name of the game, but some claim best in Lisbon. By the look of the house full of happy locals, and the bird grilled to absolute perfection, who are we to argue. And being away from the center in this case, means you getting quite a bang for the buck.
A new short feature on EWZ. It will be just like some of the old features. You’ll see it once, and you wont see it again ;). But lets hope this one sticks. I have a feeling it will as I have a list as long as my garden hose of taco places to try and revisit. Its one of those shrinkable garden hoses, so dont get scared. We’ll kick off this very exciting feature with my favorite food neighborhood in the city, East Village.
Tacos Cuautla Morelos(East 9th)
I think there should be a special award to food establishments that survive 10 years in East Village. Very quietly this hole in the wall, mom and pop (more like uncle and niece) on East 9th keeps chugging along. While you’ll find some hints of state of Morelos specialties like Tlacoyos, this is more of a typical taqueria menu you can find all over the city.
This time I came for a taco I enjoyed in the past (Pibil) but happily discovered one even better (Lengua). Cochinita Pibil is not something you can easily find in NYC, but is a staple in Morelos. Its marinated with Achiote, a special Orange paste that gives it that red color. Frankly, after having this in CDMX, I wasnt exactly wowed by it this time, as the flavor is not as distinct. But compared to most tacos in NYC, its still pretty darn solid. The latest discovery was a beautiful Lengua (tongue). Its brand new on the menu (not even listed yet as of this writing), and its exactly what you’d expect from a nice and tender Lengua.
Tacombi (East 12th)
Total opposite to Morelos, Tacombi is not only a chain nowadays, but slowly becoming the Shake Shack of tacos now that its backed by Danny Meyer. The writing is all over the wall – a future national chain. Once a chain expends as such, it becomes forgettable unless it offers something different and exceptional. Enter the new branch on the odd corner of East 12th and 3rd where the idea is to get a little closer to a Mexico City style taqueria. Need more data, but for far so legit in both the looks and flavor department.
A staple in Mexico City is the Suadero taco, the beef (brisket) version of Carnitas. Its slowly cooked in pork fat, and its even more rare in NYC than the previously mentioned Pibil. Again, not as eye popping as the versions we had in Mexico City, but surprisingly quite moist, and just fatty enough. Something I’d definitely order again. Same goes for the pastor where you get a good amount of nice, dry (not too dry), flavorful strips. If you check your preconceived chain notions at the door, you may find yourself eating at a counter in La Condesa. Except its about 10x the price.
“This is a Cork tree…. Any questions?” Two minutes into our tour with David of cork producer Cortiçarte, was all we needed to get a sense on how the rest is gonna go. One of the many personalities worth seeking out in the beautiful Alentejo countryside. The large city folk look at the people of Alentejo like mainland Italians look at Sicilians. It’s where time is time, and taking it slow and living in the moment is misinterpreted as backward and lazy. You see some evidence of that from former professional soccer players now driving Ubers to hospitality workers
David then proceeded to give us a fascinating and entertaining tour of the small family owned factory. The dude turns out is a natural. Portugal produces 60% of the worlds cork and much of it is done in this region. I mean how often do you think about where this stuff comes from. You usually begin by focusing entirely on the wine, and end with seeing unicorns. And like in a museum, at Cortiçarte you end up eventually in the gift shop. Except that its a good one this time. A shop selling all sorts of items made of, you guessed it, aluminum. J/k, its more cork.
Much of the cork doesnt have to travel far. While the Douro Valley got the pizzazz and fame, Alentejo is actually Portugal’s largest wine country. It’s wineries cover a third of the country in fact. Most of the reds are robust blends, while the whites are well balanced and quite aromatic. “Fruity or no fruity” became the question of the day by restaurant owners in the region. Even when we opted for “no fruity”, they were plenty fruity, and surprisingly delicious. I say surprisingly since living in the states you dont hear much about this region. It’s the Virginia of Europe wine regions, at least as far as my knowledge goes.
Herdade do Esperao is not quite as striking as some of the wineries we’ve visited in Europe, but it is one of the more important, and boasts one heck of a restaurant. You can book a tour and tasting as we did, followed by lunch. Its quite the production, and it was interesting to see the process, and cellars (not pictured). The tasting especially was a revelation as some of the reds in particular were quite potent.
I dont believe you can go wrong choosing between the Michelin or the Tapas Bar here. Since it was a Sunday, our only option was the Tapas Bar and that was a nice treat. I rarely say it but… vegetables! Yay! Normally veggies in Portugal are just boring sides, but here they shine. Asparagus, beet root (the star of show), and the cabbage salad that came with the pork were particularly noteworthy. A superb lamb came with scalloped potatoes with a surprise inside… more lamb. Perhaps even more memorable was the enthusiastic young waiter that talked about every ingredient like a couple talking about their first newborn.
Alentejo’s boasts some pretty impressive hilltop villages. Marvao, Castelo de Vide, Elvas and Monsaraz just to name a few, with Monsaraz perhaps the most dramatic of the bunch. I can see Marvao fans shaking their heads profusely. No argument there as they all offer something for everyone. Perhaps it was the little cemetery in Monsaraz that did it for me. Or the super friendly volunteer at the tourist office. Or the views of the lakes and Spain from its walls. With very few tourists going this far, not many residents have much reason to stay. Still, empty or not, Monsaraz might be Portugal’s best hidden secret
Most people come to Alcobaca simply for the purpose of seeing the imposing monastery. That’s if they come at all. The majority skip altogether in favor of the arguably grander Batalha, 20 km north. Imagine building something this special, only to be outstaged by jaw dropping gothicness a mule ride away. But Alcobaca monastery is no slouch. It reminds me of a falafel place in Haifa, Israel that many believe is the best in the country. It says so right on the sign – “Best Falafel in the Country”. But right across the street there’s another falafel place, and it’s sign says “Best in the Neighborhood”.
Sometimes you need to look at the bigger picture. With Portugal’s popularity these days, Batalha requires careful planning to avoid the tour buses. And there’s not a whole lot to do in “downtown Batalha”. You come, get inspired, and leave quicker than you arrived. Alcobaca on the other hand also boasts an attractive town, with a couple of famous “residents”, Ines and Pedro. You may want to learn about their tragic story before your visit to make it more interesting. You think you have marriage issues?
In comparison to the rest of the country, Alcobaca, both the monastery and town is shockingly empty. Portugal, while very popular these days as a destination, is still at the early to middle innings of the “age of discovery” (see what I did there?). Fascinating places like Monsaraz, Castelo de Davide, Alcobaca, and even Tomar are not usually on the tourist routes like Obidos, Algarve and the rest of them.
The monastery and the town should be enough reason. But if you need more, there’s yet another Origens here, and its another good one. As I said before, it requires just the kind of “chutzpah” and/or pride to call your place as such. I laid out the reasoning for the theory after another splendid meal at another, totally unrelated Origens in Evora.
We knew this is going to be one of those meals when we were greeted with port and tonic, which essentially established our drinking foundation for the rest of the trip. A lavish, local Flor do Valle cow’s milk cheese, and a pleasantly creamy vegetable soup got the juices going. Octopus with rice, nicely enhanced by fresh herbs was one of the better renditions of the trip.
Just close enough to Nazaré and the sea meant a fresh whole Dourade which became the group fave. But what truly stood apart for me was a Mirandesa steak, a local popular breed from the north. Beautiful, tender, clean, and incredibly flavorful. Just comes with salt on the side, and cooked to med-rare perfection. Ended with a traditional meringue cake
From the warm service, the flavors, and even the murals, this was another top meal of the trip nominee. Origens is a good reason to stick around for a few more hours in beautiful Alcobaca. The town compact size compliments the massiveness of the monastery nicely. It’s even, dare I say, romantic. You hear that? That’s Mrs Z’s morning laugh.
As a self confessed food snob it has taken me decades to finally warm up to brunch. In fact at some point I simply hated the concept. I understood it, but hated it. It always felt like the industry asked Hallmark, the inventor of Valentine’s day for help. “Its simple. Just invent a fourth meal, late enough in the day where you can offer alcohol. Make it only once or twice a week so people can feel like they are celebrating something, and maybe they’ll order more alcohol”
I mean, once you take out eggs and avocado toasts from the menu, you are basically left with savory lunch items combined with sweet breakfast items. Eggs to me can be eaten all day long. In fact I normally have them for lunch. Once a month I make a more elaborate egg meal, usually on a Sunday. We call it breakfast!
But this doesnt mean I dont partake in this tradition. I do enjoy a good shakshuka at any given day and time, and I have trouble saying no to hyped up pancakes. I just dont call it brunch. Its a late breakfast or lunch for me. But I’ll play along, at least for the purpose of this post, and list 5 brunches that stand out from the rest. Most of these do have a common theme, and so not particularly diverse…
Rana Fifteen – Park Slope, Brooklyn
The last thing I expected from the Filipino FOB team is to open a Turkish restaurant. But then again, half of the team is in fact Turkish. They opened less than a year ago, and its unlike any Turkish that we know in NYC. All you need to do is order one dish. One of two egg dishes for breakfast, er, Brunch. And next thing you know, you get everything but the kitchen sink laid out in such way, you dont know where to start. As the name suggests, 15 savory and sweet homemade delights including outstanding pancakes and various spreads. Combined, its a symphony of flavors, with no bad apples to be found. This is brunch for people who hate brunch.
Chez Ma Tante – Greenpoint, Brooklyn
This is a more “traditional” brunch with two issues. Its in Greenpoint, and its dangerously close to possibly the best tacos in town, Taqueria Ramirez. But I wouldnt mention this gem unless it had at least one very good reason to schlep to Greenpoint. Pancakes, ranked up there with some of the best I’ve had in nyc, including Clinton St Bakery. Thick, crispy, fluffy, and addictively sweet. Its not exactly an area secret so prepare to wait.
19 Cleveland – Nolita
The name doesn exactly scream some of the best Israeli food in the city, like little sister Nish Nush. But to me this is just the kind of light Mediterranean fair that differentiates itself from other brunches. Expect of course solid Hummus and falafel, but also craftier stuff like eggplant carpaccio, fish shawarma and short rib bourekas. And yes, of course there’s a sick Shakshuka.
Cafe Mogador – East Village and Williamsburg
For years whenever I passed by Mogador in East Village, I had to cross to the other side of the street during peak brunch time. The many patrons waiting, sometimes for over an hour to be seated, know whats up. You forget sometimes that this is a Moroccan restaurant specializing in Tagine. Arguably, the real specialty here is eggs. Whether in Moroccan style, a la shakshuka with merguez sausage, a Sabich platter dominated by perfectly roasted eggplant, or just in a form of a very good Benedict.
Opera Cafe Lounge, Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn
Emmons Ave in Sheepshead Bayis like the local version of a tourist trap. An attractive area filled with one pretentious place after another. Opera is the one exception (that I know), consistently dishing out fresh middle eastern goodies for quite some time now. Partly due to its size, Opera has slowly become the go to place for celebrations, and just casual no reservations needed brunches. This is where we usually take my mom for brunch, and our orders are always the same. The ‘Breakfast Platter’ that includes various cold cuts, cheese, jams, and drinks. And my personal fave, Menemen (Turkish scrambled eggs) with Sujuk, a spicy dry sausage.
How often do we judge destinations based on expectations, rather than face value. Imagine seeing Pena Palace in Sintra, or the Eiffel Tower without knowing anything about them. Sort of just bumping into them by accident. You’ll be anxious to tell the world about your findings rather than figure out whether expectations were met. Sometimes it works the other way. High expectations can convince you to appreciate a place much more than you would otherwise. Sort of “the emperor has no clothes” effect.
The more you read about Aveiro, the more you start questioning whether this is a worthy destination. You get the idea that its not genuine, too touristy, there’s not a whole lot to do, and my favorite, its nothing like Venice. Aveiro’ small canal system, and colorful boats gave it the nickname the Venice of the South. Just like with the Florence of the south (Lecce), people often make the mistake of comparing them to their “look-alikes”, and setting themselves up for disappointment.
But on face value, Aveiro is unlike anything I’ve seen. Even if you take out the canals and boats, its a stunner. The cobblestone streets with the maritime motifs, picturesque squares, and flashy architecture give the town a certain atmosphere. Its clean and very pleasant to walk around, even outside of the main zone. We didnt find it overrun with tourists, but much like Porto, we saw a lot of construction.
But the boats, or Moliceiros, and canals definitely give it an added flair. You can take a boat ride (too hot on our visit). Or simply walk around to admire the boats, and search for the naughtiest paintings. Every boat has some sort of an illustration in the front, some quite strange, and potentially offensive. The history is not exactly clear. It started as politically motivated, and somehow transformed into this over time. Its weird and hilarious at the same time. Just zoom in on some of the pictures. You can find more examples here and here, and I just had to steal one from the excellent Julie Dawn Fox.
Julie Dawn Fox
Like many towns in Portugal, the town has its own convent treat, Ovos Moles (“soft eggs”). We picked up some from a shop called 1882. There’s even a bakery with a workshop, teaching tourists how to make them. Honestly, after eating convent desserts all over Portugal, we were not particularly wowed by these. Ultra sweet and eggy. Sugar, eggs and sometimes almonds dominate the convent dessert scene all over the country. But you have to admire how old traditions get preserved as such.
Another big reason to come here is the nearby port/beach town of Costa Nova, and its colorful houses. You can make this stop as big as you want. Take advantage of the many seafood restaurants (Marisqueiras), go to the beach, or just take a stroll on the promenade along the striped fishermen houses. My unofficial explanation is that the fishermen had a drinking problem, and after numerous misunderstandings, some turned lethal involving spouses, they decided to color their houses to ensure they find the right one at the end of along day.
When you walk past O Buraquinho da Se, you start questioning this whole reliance on Google thing. Google clearly says its here, but it’s clearly not. Is it closed? Did it move? Do I need to learn how to fold a map again? Yikes! Hold on, wait a minute, its only 7 pm, and restaurants here dont open for dinner until 7:30-8. We are clearly not in Kansas anymore, not even NYC. So coming earlier to confirm reservations means the place may not even be open yet. But that doesnt answer the question of where the heck is this place.
There’s no sign and no door that I could see. There are some empty tables on the alley steps, but they may belong to the bar in the corner. When I came back a few minutes later, an older gentleman with a giant open book and a cigarette occupied one of those tables. After delivering the sad “we are full” news to some patrons, he confirmed mine, with almost perfect English. Apparently Jacque recently retired from finance to do this, along with his wife in the kitchen.
And I suppose there is a door after all. More like half a door that leads to a hers and hers closet. Once inside, you find yourself in this tiny half basement, with maybe 5 tables. O Buraquinho da Se in fact translates to “The little hole”. But you can use all your favorite travel cliches here.. “A hole in the wall”, “hidden gem”, “like eating at someone’s house”, “mom and pop”, “old school”, just about all of them. The only thing left is to see if their octopus lives up to the hype.
It exceeded it. By like, a mile. 12 years ago, we fell in love with Portuguese octopus 500 meters away at another hole, A Grade. Today A Grade is a magnet for foreign, especially Asian tourists. But O Buraquinho da Se’s version was just magnificent. Two mammoth tentacles, not particularly dressed, a good thing when the product is this good. You can tell its the angels singing variety as soon as you touch it with the fork. Perhaps best Octopus I ever had.
Normal people, while vacationing, like to eat things that they, well, like. And avoid ordering things they dont like. But since Bacalhau is so deeply rooted in local culture, how can we come here without trying it again. Since I already mentioned Bacalhau in other Portugal posts, it’s safe to say that we got converted at some point. It was here, in this church. Unlike prior tries, this fish, covered with cornbread was much more balanced.
There was also a supremely flavorful, hearty shrimp Acorda, an excellent meat and cheese board, and a portobello topped with grilled goat cheese that had our taste buds dancing. Ended with a very satisfying homemade chocolate mousse and an almond tart. Washed it all down with a local fruity white Altano, by one of the Douro pioneers.
One of those flawless meals, aided by Jacque’s attention and English command. We live in a country dominated by a service industry, but we travel to experience this kind of service. O Buraquinho da Se is only open four days a week. Three of those for lunch as well. You wont find many or any mentions of it by influencers or Facebook like Chama and many others. Go! You can reserve this via Facebook.
Eating With Ziggy 