New York City

Annisa – Eating Without Borders (and Dictionary)

Annisa SquidSo I finally shaved and went to Annisa.  Anita Lo’s “Baby” has been on my list for a long time now, but not until the New York Times awarded it its third star, I figured its time.  Besides, I couldnt think of too many places that can match the elegance of birthday girl Mrs Ziggy on this rainy night (Awwweee! Ok enough).  Lo’s career reads like a movie script.  Highly acclaimed internships, Iron Chef win over Batali, a cookbook named Cooking Without Borders is just a small sample of Lo’s accomplishments.  But what separates this NYC food celebrity from the rest for me is instead of trying to build an empire, she’s staying put and concentrating on one place, her 14 year old “Baby”, Annisa.

AnnisaCooking without Borders means you cant quite categorize Anita Lo’s cuisine.  Hence, the default  American (New) title is applied for Annisa.  The menu includes influences from her French training, Middle East, plenty of Asian, and yes there’s even some American (New).  It also made me feel culinary dumb, (what the heck is a Satsumaimo).  Not as dumb however as I felt after I got a little tipsy and forgot where I parked the car after dinner.  Mrs Z thought it was Jones St, I said Waverly, while a homeless gentleman who overheard us talking kept yelling “WAVERLY” and pointed to it in case we didnt notice that Waverly was right in front us.  At some point we gathered for a brainstorm session with me, wife and the homeless guy who just kept saying “Waverly”, trying to figure out where we came from.  We finally found the car on Waverly as I and homeless guy predicted

I love coming to a place with a sound ordering plan.  Sometimes it doesn’t work too well, but this was not one of those times.Annisa Sashimi

Black Sea Bass Sashimi with trout roe, Yuzu Pearls and Shiso – Delicate, expertly cut Sashimi with the mild caviar that’s not overpowering.  We shared this one as our first course before the next two apps.  While I thought I ordered just enough or a little too much food, the couple near us who apparently was there a few times in the last few weeks ordered 4 apps, and 4 mains.  The waiter tried to convey that its too much food but quickly lost the argument.  These were some true Anita fans!

BBQ Squid, Thai Basil, Fresh Peanuts and Edamame (top) -Perhaps the dish of the night.  You just cant get more tender, better tasting squid than this.  With the peanuts probably getting boiled the heck out of them until their texture pretty much matches the Edameme, the sweetness from the Howisin sauce and minty hints, you got yourself a great dishAnnisa Dumplings

Seared Foie Gras with soup dumplings and Jicama – Very good as expected from one of Lo’s signature items that’s been on the menu form day one.  Since you get three dumplings we added one more which amounted to $28.  Sitting on top of vinegar reduction, you pick up the dumplings with your spoon, bite one end of it and suck out some of the soup much to chagrin of your 4 apps, 4 mains neighbors.  Then you eat the rest of the dumpling that includes plenty of crunch from the Jicama.  An enjoyable dish but despite the Foie presence, the few bites dont live up to the price tag in my opinion

Broiled Spanish Mackerel, Garlic fried Milk, Satsumaimo, Korean Chili.  A lot going in this one.  The fiery Korean Chili sauce balanced out nicely the strong Mackerel flavors.  Small cubes of Satsumaimo which is Japanese sweet potato and more ingeniousness from the Garlic Fried Milk balls.  Nice dish!Annisa Mackerel

Pan Roasted Chicken – There are those places where you simply must order the chicken (the NoMad, KFC) and this is one of them.  Something Lo picked up from her work in Chanterelle.  Tender, juicy, perfectly crisped skin, stuffed with pigs’ feet and chanterelles and sitting on a bed of creamy puree of White Truffle, Sherry and roasted onions.  This dish was sensational!

And what a fitting finish for us to end this one with what I call “The NOLA duo” (which confused the Maitre d a little).  From the Beignets of the previous post to the great little Pecan and Salted Butternut Beignets with Bourbon Milk Ice.  Although I was full I could have had another dozen of these.  The airy and scrumptious Bread and Butter pudding with lemon curd would fit nicely with the bread pudding behemoths in New Orleans.  There’s all sorts of mediocre bread puddings all over town, but this is certainly not one of them

Annisa
13 Barrow St
$$$$
Recommended Dishes: BBQ Squid, Black Sea Bass Sashimi, Pan Roasted Chicken, Beignets, Bread Pudding, Dumplings if you dont mind the priceAnnisa Chicken Annisa Beignets Annisa Bread Pudding Annisa Out

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Bassanova – Some Ramen are Better than Others

Bassanova YuzuApril 12th, 2015 Update:

I have mixed feelings about reblogging this one.  On one hand I have an important update on Bassanova (Important to me at least.  To roughly 89% of yous this is as important as the news that Bruce Jenner is now wearing a bra).  But on the other hand, after reading the original post below, I have no clue what the hell I’m talking about there.  I suppose I can just rewrite the entire thing, but that would not be keeping it real.  You are with me folks, with the good and the bad, and the terrible.  And the “He must be high on kasha or something”.

I’ll make this one quick and painless, without any Morrissey references.  Its painful enough for me to even spell Morisseey.  But I really do wish everyday was like this Sunday.  A nice day of eating with the misses where I introduced her to more of my favorites, and in return she made let me try on 17 pairs of jeans in Soho.  I’m so lucky to have her.

Adding the Yuzu Wadashi Ramen to the equation.  The Yuzu is cleaner, with a profound citrusy flavor in both the stock and noodles (Yuzu is an Asian Citrus fruit that looks like a cross between a grapefruit and a lemon).  Cleaner than the Green Curry that is, which still rocks with its complexity and chewy wavy noodles.  Its a fairly busy plate with okra, shrimp, and shaved dried chili, and almost mazemen-like with its thick broth.  Still enjoyed it, but I give a slight nod to the lighter Yuzu at this point.  We also loved the long flat sizzling hot Iron-Pan Stick Dumplings.  They are hot alright, and quite delicious with pork, chives, chinese cabbage, garlic, and scallion.  Get it!

I’m not complaining, but this is one of those places that puzzle me why there are no lines out the door like you see in Totto and Ippudo.

Bassanova Green Curry Bassanova Dumplings

May 21st, 2014 post:

The likely title if the great Morrissey would have written this one for me.  “Some Girls are Bigger than Others” by Morrissey and the Smiths always pops into my head when I go to one of those school events like I did today.  And you know what?  He’s right!  Some girls are indeed bigger than others, and not only that but “Some girls mothers are bigger than other girls mothers” (listen to the song).  You can say a lot about Morrissey, but you cant say he’s unobservant.  Today at my 12 year old Honor Society Ceremony I just couldn’t help but notice how tiny some kids are compared to others.  Some look like 16, while others look like 6.

BTW (switching to “Big mouth” as the soundtrack for this post) did you ever wonder why people put those “My child is in an honor student” bumper stickers on their cars.  Is this something you need to announce to total strangers driving behind you?  And do you honestly think that anyone would actually care and go “oh look honey, her son is an honor student, well isn’t that special”  Why not announce it to total strangers at other venues, like when entering a subway train “LADIES AND GENTLEMAN, can I have your attention please..”.  It never made sense to me. (Switching gears to “How Soon is Now”…)

Bassanova Ramen

Anyway, some Ramen are in fact better than others, and Bassanova’s Green Curry Ramen is moving up the NYC rankings.  Rankings that include heavyweights like the Akamaru Modern by Ippudo, Spicy Ramen by Totto, and Ivan Ramen’s array of Ramen and Mazemen.  The awards and various list mentions are proudly displayed on the sign in a very unique way.  But to my and the Hummus Whisperer’s shock, no mention of the “Battle of the Soups” discovery by the Hummus Whisperer back in November”.  While we didn’t expect the Bassanova founder to put the bumper sticker “I was mentioned on Eating With Ziggy” we sent him, we did expect something next to the NYT top 10.

The Green Curry Ramen is peppery, intense, and features wavy thicker al-dente noodles which I haven’t seen before in a Ramen bowl.  The added okra, shrimp and of course the porky goodness adds to the joy.  The pork stock with hints of fish was rich, complex and simply Marvelous.  Another unique Ramen to us but an increasingly common one in Tokyo is the Lemon Pepper featuring thinner more basic noodles.  The waitress grinds fresh pepper on top of the lemon slices coating the entire dish.  Check out Bassanova everyone

Bassanova Ramen
76 Mott St
$$
Recommended Dishes:  Get the Green Curry

Bassanova - Green Curry Ramen Bassanova Lemon Pepper Ramen Bassanova

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Bar Bolonat – Shiksa Approved

Bar Bolonat - Malabi

December 26, 2014 Update:

Took yet another shiksa to Bar Bolonat the other day and had another fun meal.  Plenty of empty tables on a Friday night at 8 pm but by the time we left the place was packed.  Are we eating later now like in Europe?  I didn’t get the memo.  Einat Admony’s pink scooter wasnt there again, and I’m yet to meet this NYC legend.  Yes, to me her accomplishments here are inline with some of the famous chefs in NYC.  Although there were some misses on this particular night, there were plenty of hits, some of which I added to the recommended list below.

Sunchoke Latkes – Hannukah special.  Tasted much better than they looked (they looked like Latkes!).  Nice falafely flavor

Delicata Squash – Good.  Essentially a hefty meaty sweet squash lightly dressed with some Tahini and a few pieces of brittle adding more sweetness and crunch.  Contrary to how the media praises the veg dishes, I don’t see them as the strong points here.  Timeout named the Everyday Cauliflower one of the best dishes of the year, but I thought it was just ok and not nearly as good as Balaboosta’s version

Octopus – Just ok. Came with a couple of purees, roasted peppers, and something called “Squid Ink Cracker” which was like a tasteless rice cake.  The octopus itself was a bit too tender, as in undercooked and missing that nice octopus bite (octobite!)

Bar Bolonat - Creme BruleeZabzi Tagine – Still great but lost some of its “Taginess”.  Short rib instead of beef cheek this time (I prefer the cheeks).  Came with a closed lid.  I was hoping to impress this particular Shiksa with the incredible aromas I remember from last time that would drive her mishegas.  But this time as soon as the lid went up, we got bupkes.  None of that crazy good herby action I smelled before.  Still, a solid plate overall and something I would order again

Hudson Street Kibbeh – This was a fantastic dish and possibly the best Kibbeh I ever had.  Three x-large egg shaped pieces with preserved lemon sauce.  The meat was perfectly seasoned and the crust had a nice crunch.

Falafel Encrusted Grouper – I wasn’t sure about this one.  Love my falafels and groupers but not necessarily together.  Turned out to be a great surprise.  The falafel crust was just strong (or weak) enough to compliment the delicate fish which was perfectly cooked.  Loved the accompanied beans in this white Chermoula seasoned sauce which absorbed much of the fish.  Perhaps my new favorite dish here

Halva Crème Brulee – As good as before.  Admony’s desserts are some of the best in the business.

I should also note that with the end of the year looming I’m seeing some of these dishes included in various best of the year lists.  Namely, the Jerusalem Bagel, Halva Crème Brulee and Cauliflower dish.  And this is just the beginning of the lists seasonBar Bolonat - Artichoke

Original May 14, 2014 post:

Something peculiar happened to me yesterday that worries me a little.  It could be nothing, something, or an eating lowlight of sorts not sure.  A wardrobe malfunction after another great meal at Ma Peche.  A rather important button disappeared from one of the only shirts I have that makes me look healthy.  Not just any button.  A designer button made in a Mongolian orphanage.  For about an hour on the bus I looked like something like this.  There was nothing in the way, nothing I could do to control or contain that gut but cover it with my hands as best I could.  A sign perhaps, like a timely Metamucil commercial that I should start watching how much what I eat.  “You are what you eat” is what they keep saying (They=Dr. Oz) and according to the laws of digestion, the gut in question was loaded with Korean, American, Italian, Modern Israeli and chocolate covered pomegranates from Costco (serious awesomeness) among other delicacies.  Yes, it was one of those weekends.

The first word that came to mind when I arrived at Einat Admony’s Bar Bolonat is guts.  The pink scooter was not there which means perhaps that Einat doesn’t give a couscous about the all important critic stage after an opening.  Ok, after missing her in Balaboosta and Taim over the years I just cant get a break.  All I want to do is tell her how awesome she is, and complain about the way they spell S’chug at Taim (wtf is “S’rug”) thats all.  The good news is that the Schug (Yemenite hot sauce/spread) spelling makes more sense at Bar Bolonat.  The better news is that the meal was very good.Bar Bolonat - Jerusalem Bagel

As in Balaboosta and just about every new place these days, its large, small, smaller plate format.  We ordered 6 dishes + 2 desserts for the 2 of us and it felt that it was the right amount of food.  Plates started rolling out at a furious pace at first.  We got the first 4 dishes fairly quickly including some at the same time (we were there no more than 20 mins I think)  And I had to ask them to slow down a bit which they did.

The Jerusalem Bagel with Za-atar spices on the side was light and fresh.  I always say that if you see bread on the menu, get it, and I continue to follow the rule.  But I cant help but be less enthusiastic about this rule of thumb now that every new place follows this trend.  It almost feels refreshing these days when you get free bread, like the focaccia with various dips/salads we got at Enoteca Maria (the rotating Italian Babushka place) the other nightBar Bolonat - Zabzi Tagine

A fine baby artichoke dish, coated with a good amount of pistachios and spices.  As good as baby artichoke can taste for me.  The “Everyday Cauliflower” was on the dry side with very little tahini at the bottom and tasted more like.. well… everyday cauliflower.  Maybe that’s the point, but a slight nod to the Balaboosta version.  The star of the show by far was the Zabzi Tagine.  Incredibly aromatic and flavor packed beef cheeks and homemade couscous.  The beef cheeks made me forget about the super tender beef cheek dish I had in Sylvain in New Orleans recently

Four plump, expertly cooked Shrimp with Yemenite Curry and just a touch of that spicy S’chug was quite delectable.  A similar dish she offered at Balaboosta as a special.  Fresh Pasta with ricotta was simple, and quite delicious.  If there’s one thing I like more than simple fresh pasta, is simple fresh pasta with a bit of a kick.

No Chocolate Falafel on the dessert menu last night (probably a good thing) but enjoyed a nice Malabi, (the Israeli Panna Cotta), and an ever better Halva Creme Brulee.  Like the Silan at Taboon its all about the shredded Halva taking this one to the next level.  Check out Bar Bolonat everyone, and bring your Shiksas

Bar Bolonat
611 Hudson St
$$$
Recommended Dishes: Jerusalem Bagel, Zabzi Tagine, Shrimp with Yemenite Curry, Fresh Pasta, Hudson Street Kibbeh, Grouper, Halva Creme Brulee

Bar Bolonat - Cauliflower Bar Bolonat - Shrimp Bar Bolonat - Pasta

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Kokum – YeShiva University

014Rule of thumb still stands.  Want solid Indian in the city of New York, just visit any of Shiva’s establishments.  That’s Shiva Natarajan if you scoring at home, or if you’re alone.  Adding Kokum to the Arsenal that includes Chote Nawab and Malai Marke.  Kokum, named after a fruit used as a spice in South India cooking represents the cuisine of Kerala among other South Indian regions.  A refreshing addition to North Indian heavy (read Heavy as in rich) NYC.

When you first walk inside Kokum, it feels like second hour of lights fixture shopping time with the wife in Chinatown.  You start feeling dehydrated, dizzy while hallucinations and impure thoughts about Indian and Chinese food start kicking in.  If this is what Shiva went through to get funky lights fixtures, than I feel for you brother.  Women Schwomen you know what I’m saying!

Kokum’s menu requires a stint at Ye(Shiva) University, before arrival.  Its not only large, but it will make your head spin.  There must have been 30 items at least that I wanted to try including some familiar items from Shiva’s other establishments.  As a result, flavors were a little more familiar than I was expecting but in a very very good way.010

Tropical Kerala – Perhaps the first ever cocktail at an Indian establishment I really liked.  Get this.

Kumily Chicken Fry – Well done. Good depth and not too dry. Similar to Chili Chicken at Malai Marke and perhaps your neighborhood Szechuan

Mysore Masala Dosa – You gotta get a Dosa crepe here. This one was stuffed with spiced potatoes and onions.  Terrific accompanied chutneys ranged from mild to hot.  This thing is huge

Red Pumpkin Thoran – Good, nicely balanced, but should have ordered the bindi (okra) we enjoyed so much in Shivas other establishments

Kori Gassi – We liked this a lot at Chote Nawab so had to get it again.

Chettinad Kulambu – I’ve been on a Chettinad high lately as my go to lunch choice. This is probably the best Chettinad I’ve had

No Naan here. Got some spongy Appam rice crepes, like Sri Lankan Hoppers. Appalam, lentil pancakes I would skip. Great Paripu Podi Rice

Kokum
106 Lexington Ave
Recommended Dishes:  All of the above005 007 012 013 015

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As The World (of Hell’s Kitchen Bodegas) Turns

tehuitzingoSome changes to the Hell’s Kitchen Bodega scene prompts me to make quick changes to the guide.

A bodega, for those who dont know, is a Mexican deli or mini market that often serves food (tacos, burritos, etc) as well.  Its sort of a NYC thing, and a good way to experience authentic Mexican in a city not exactly known for it

Hell’s Kitchen theses days is suddenly packed with all sorts of exiting Mexican in different price points.  That includes some of the best bodegas in town.  Unfortunately, one of my favorites Guelaguetza now appears to be closed, and I wish David and his family all the best.  I already miss munching on their terrific burritos while watching Dora the Explorer with their kids.  And it was the good stuff, with Diego around.

But thats no reason to cancel your holiday if you ask me.  Lately I’ve been on the hunt for some good tacos (midlife crisis Stage IV) all over the area and the undisputed winner is Tehuitzingo.  Their tacos are so good they are now multiplying, opening yet another Taqueria on 9th and 41st while at the same time renovating the original to look more like a Mexican disco than a bodega.  Try the Al Pastor taco, roasted marinated pork.tehuitzingo al pastor

 

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HK Guide Update

capizziA few additions to the guide

Dessert (about time eh?) –  Kee’s Chocolates, Little Pie Company

Doner/Turkish –  Adding Turco (needed some convincing) over Hansi (need more convincing but lunch deal is good)

Farm to Table – The Marshal.  A solid Addition to the neighborhood

Pizza – Capizzi.  A nice alternative to Don Antonio

Best HK dining that’s not actually in HK – A new category for theater goers and those who want to experience some of NY’s finest just outside the area.

Tried other candidates which fell short.  Spent a lot of time at Gotham West which saw its first casualty already (Little Chef).  “An exciting replacement” according to a GWM rep will be announced soon.  In case you missed the recent post on Gotham, here it is.  Also added links to the recent “top dishes” posts.

Hell’s Kitchen Survival Guide

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Narcissa – The Cow Says Mmmm

NarcissaReaders, meet Narcissa, the cow resident at the Locusts farm on the Hudson.  Narcissa’s hobbies include walking by the river, grass, and Turkish prison movies.  Unlike Rob Lowe whose looks killed his career, Narcissa killer looks keep her at the top of the food chain, or pretty close to it.  The new restaurant at The Standard in East Village is named after her.  An honor you just don’t see these days.  We are talking about the full name, not just the first letter the way soooo many babies are named these days.  I mean if you gonna name your baby after your great aunt Ethel, Emma is not gonna cut it.  And who decided it has to be the first letter anyway.

Narcissa, just like the cow, is a stunner.  Two spacious, comfortable, nicely laid out rooms.  Perhaps a little too attractive to accept the initial offering of the seats next to the busy reception area, while the rest of the row was entirely empty.  The couple seated right after us questioned the move as well, but elected to stay.  I never understood the logic behind this practice, but no harm done.  A very interesting cocktail list with the least imaginative names:  “Roll in the Hay”, “So Pretty”.  Or fairly imaginative depending on how you look at it.  Started with a spicy offering (forgot the name) but much preferred the latter herby and refreshing “Gentleman’s Framer”.Narcissa

If you haven’t figured it out by now, Narcissa is all about Farm to Table.  Unlike other Farm to Tables that could be easily called American or American (new), the veggies here truly shine.  Juts about every menu you see these days has that one veggie main, usually the first dish, that is normally lonelier than that single sock in your sock drawer you keep just in case its partner by pure miracle comes back one day.  That lone dish in Narcissa is the star of the menu, the Carrots Wellington.

Narcissa - Short RibsLets start with the apps.  Two well cooked Short Rib pieces with pastrami spices, buttermilk and radish salad with a nice amount of mustard presence.  The pastrami wasnt evident much, but the dish enjoyable nonetheless.  The sweet “meaty” Crisped Beets with bulgur salad, apples, and creamed horseradish was similar in some ways to the short rib dish.   Just a nice combination of textures and flavors.  I never ever order beets anything as I don’t particularly care for them but this was really nice.

The highlight as mentioned was the middle course of Carrots Wellington.  Should have ordered it as the main course and the Barley Risotto as the middle as originally planned, but commitment issues prevailed (Its a carrot dish!).  The sweet, tender carrots did a great job replacing the beef in those pastries, and the accompanied veggies especially the earthy Bluefoot mushrooms elevated this thing to the next level.  The carrot dish to beat perhaps (over Pioras) in NYC

Narcissa - Carrot Wellington

The two mains were far less thrilling however.  The duck breast was lacquered, undercooked (for my taste) on the rare side, covered by a thick fatty layer, with cranberry sauce.  Just didn’t care for the overall texture and flavor.  The best part was the gingered butternut squash on the side with spiced cranberries.  Should have ordered the much better looking lamb loin.  We expected much more from the “whole” Branzino, filleted and topped with a salad that included fennel and onions that were somewhat off-putting to Mrs Ziggy.  Dried up fairly quickly by the time I got to it.  A rarity for us as we prefer the simpler way we grill them at home, with the bones and skin and all, lemon and olive oil.  Carrot fries tempura style side was the saving grace of the mains.  Just get all the carrot dishes here.Narcissa - Duck Narcissa - Branzino

Desserts were stellar.  Just about the best carrot cake (what else) you will ever eat, and an even better runny creamy chocolate tart with toasted bananas and espresso ice cream.  Yummo!

A few important bathroom tips in a place called “The Standard”.  Remembering how you got there may not be enough.  Pay attention to the tiny red light on the door.  Turn the lock all the way.. again (learned the hard way – sorry strange lady).

A fine meal overall.  Narcissa is not for everyone (I must get the Cialis commercials out of my head).  But if you want to experience something different, especially root vegetables that come to life in ways you never had before, check it out

Narcissa
21 Cooper Square
$$$
Recommended Dishes: Short Ribs, Crisped Beets, Carrot Wellington, Carrot cake, Chocolate tart

Narcissa - Chocolate tart Narcissa - Carrot cake

 

 

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Best Dishes in Hell’s Kitchen- Round 2

Pure Thai Ratchaburi Continuing the best of hell series where I feature 5 dishes from Hell’s Kitchen.  Round one can be found here.  Will try to make it a monthly feature pending approval from my gastroenterologist

Ratchaburi crab and pork dry noodles at Pure Thai Cookhouse (above)– The neighborhood’s dry(er) noodle offerings are intensifying as of late, but this is perhaps the original and still the one to beat.  The noodles are handmade in house in the Thai shophouse-like setting (in fact originally Pure’s name was Pure Thai Shophouse until Chipotle made them change its name – long story).  That dry but tender bright delicious pork, the wonderfully chewy tasty egg noodles, the sweetness of the crab, and nuttiness of the “I cant believe its not Broccoli Rabe” Yo Choy.  Add some of the citrusy broth from the bottom for added flavor.  Easily one of my faves, named after the Ratchaburi region in Central Thailand where one of the owners (the wife) came from.  BONUS:  For an app get the Ribs (below)Pure Thai Ribs

Chicken Shawarma at Azuri Café – I hear disturbing reports lately that Ezra from Azuri is cracking smiles at tourists.  I’m not sure if it means a change in attitude, trouble with Mrs Ezra, or?  This is simply not the neighborhood Ezra we know and love to hate.  With that said, the falafel is still the best in the area.  But you can get good falafel all over town, and lately its the Shawarma that’s winning me over.  After a good amount of shaving from the turning spit, he cooks it a little longer on the griddle with secret sauce and spices.  Then he stuffs the goodies in the whole wheat pita with the fresh salads in the same careful technique that made his falafel a neighborhood icon.  And in true Israeli style adds some Amba sauce (Mango based condiment), pickles, and if you want… spicy “Harif” S’chug.  You have to say “HaRIF” with the jewish spitting Chhhh if you want it though.  The result is a glorious mess of flavors thats worth the extra Shekels.Azuri Cafe - Chicken Shawarma

Trenette at Mercato.  There are quite a few excellent pastas at my favorite casual Italian in Hell’s Kitchen, but if I have to pick one, its the simple but addictive homemade Trenette.  Almonds and garlic used liberally, tomato and basil contribute to the flavor explosion of this $12 dish (yes, a $12 pasta in NYC).  Save some of the bread for this one and I dare you to leave anything on the plateMercato Trenette

Empanada mamma Spicy ChickenSpicy Chicken Empanada at Empanada Mama – Ok, I keep trying various empanadas and every time I go, I must order at least one Spicy Chicken to enjoy last.  I especially need one good one to cool me down after the Viagra Empanada, perhaps my second favorite of the bunch but for different reasons.  Hey, I don’t name them.  Chunks of tender, mouthwatering chicken slowly cooked in Mama’s special picante sauce creating this super pleasant heat.  Just like mama used to make!  Well, its just an expression, my mom has no idea what Empanadas are?

Silan at Taboon – Vanilla ice cream with puffed rice and date honey sprinkled with caramelized pistachios and topped with shredded halva, SHREDDED HALVA!  Need I say more.  I probably should.  But I’m tired!  Laila Tov!

Stay hungry Amigos!Taboon Silan

 

 

 

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Lincoln – Orange is the New Crack

Lincoln Strozzapreti
I never had crack cocaine!  Its a well documented fact that I was smoking cigarettes at the young age of 5 and wearing a patch 9 months later, but I never had crack cocaine nor do I have any idea how it tastes like.  Does it taste like Strozzapreti made with lobster coral (egg sac)?  Does it taste like lobster and scallop sausage with the look and texture of loose chicken skin?  Or does it taste like sweet lobster meat gently floating in a delicate sauce with lemony hints?  Is it like all of the above put together smelling like the sea as soon as it arrives?  If the answer is yes to any of the above, where do I sign up?

Lincoln RestaurantIs it too early to name the dish of the year? Probably.  But a few more like this bright Strozzapreti (most likely named after someone envisioned a pasta shape while witnessing a priest being strangled) this year and I will be a very happy Ziggy.  The chicken skin-like lobster/scallop “sausages” especially gave me a ratatouille moment that almost made me drop my iPhone.  Other dishes I enjoyed between two meals in order of deliciousness….

The Spongata, a superb honey and nut cake came with a satsuma sherbet that was so heavenly it could probably thrive on the dessert menu alone.  Reginette, curly ribbony pasta was perfectly cooked and topped with a chunky veal, pork and beef, would most likely satisfy any Bolognese Ragu craving.  A mild creamy Burrata with fava beans, peas, spring onions and a light minty sauce got a tremendous boost from the sensational prosciutto-like cured pork shoulder.  The only dish I didnt quite know what to make of was a trio of Mortadella, prosciutto, and a thin head cheese slice sitting on top of a puffy fried dough on some fruity sweet sauce.  Do I like it together? Separate? without the sauce?  I found myself experimenting just like the chef was.Lincoln Burrata

Every few months the menu changes to include dishes from a particular Italian region, although you could arrive in between regions as I did yesterday and still enjoy well crafted food.  As is the case with most fine Italian in town, the strength in Lincoln is with the pasta.  And long time Per Se and French laundry alumni Jonathan Benno is widely considered a pasta virtuoso.   Lincoln Ristorante is of course part of the Lincoln Center complex.  A 20 million design triumph includes floor to ceiling windows, 3 dining rooms, and a spectacular open kitchen.  The service ranges from friendly to cold depending on the day of the week.  And the open kitchen may also mean you could hear what they plan to do with you depending on where you sit…

Server just picked up first course from your table:  “Number 37 is done with the first course”

Chef:  “Lets give him a minute to gather himself and pick up his phone.  Give him some more bread”

Lincoln Ristorante
142 W 65th St
$$$$
Recommended Dishes: Strozzapreti, Reginette, Burrata, Spongata

Lincoln Ristorante Lincoln Trio Lincoln Reginette Lincoln Spongata Lincoln

 

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Ma Peche – I Luh Ya PaPi

Ma PecheI have to make this one short and sweet and to the point before the wife comes home (which means I will need to stop writing and talk to her do something around the house most likely).  The point is that Ma Peche is quickly becoming one of my midtown faves, and in true Momofuku fashion keeps reinventing itself with new formats.

On what should really be a national holiday, Baseballs opening day, I took 3 of my least pickiest co-workers for a special lunch that’s becoming a Monday norm.  One doesn’t do spicy, one doesn’t do mayo and seafood, and one doesn’t do anything that is yellowish.  A perfect group for Ma Peche’s new “Passed Plates” sort of like Dim Sum cart ladies format.  Except instead of dumplings and cart ladies you get razor clam ceviche, foie gras, and hipsters.  You can see today’s potential passed items on a piece of paper on the table, and your waiter will put a check next to each item you order (can I come with an eraser in case I eat something I don’t like?).  In addition to that you still have a handful of a la carte “Chef’s Specials” like the awesome fried chicken and the awesomer Brussels Sprouts.Ma Peche - Brussels sprouts

For what amounted to $23 per person, you simply can not get better value in NYC.  While the salad carts were circling, the Habanero Fried Chicken (half chicken $24) and Brussels Sprouts quickly arrived.  The softer, saucier than the usual sprouts with ginger-scallion, cherry, and calabrian chili surpassed Alta as the city Brussels Sprouts to beat.  Is there a restaurant in town that does not have a Brussels Sprouts dish, or kale?

Ma Peche - Pork BunsThe pork buns were the first items we picked from the passed plates and I was slightly disappointed by the overall size and taste compared to buns you get at Ippudo for the same price.  I still gobbled the heck out of this one though.  The spicy rice cakes then followed.  Ok, let me tell you something about those rice cakes.  Similar to Ssam Bar’s spicy sausage dish these pillowy “Korean Gnocchi” with just enough meat ragu and pleasant lingering heat were simply outstanding.  I may be addicted to the Momofuku rice cakes.

Then we sort of waited for the chicken wings to pass by but they never did.  The waiter asked if we would like anything else, we said “wings” and voila.. 5 minutes later we get 8 wings that tasted so much better than they looked (kinda burned).  These wings were tender, perfectly seasoned, and really some of the best wings in recent memory.

Ma Peche
At the Chambers Hotel
15 w. 56th street
$$$
Reccommended Dishes:  Fried Chicken, Brussels Sprouts, wings, rice cakes

Ma Peche - Fried ChickenMa Peche - Rice Cakes Ma Peche - Wings Ma Peche from above

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

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