Italy

Meal of the Year 2014 – Il Centro in Priocca

Posted on January 3, 2015 by Ziggy

Top NYC dishes of 2014 are coming up next, but first I have to tell you all about the meal of the year and quite possibly the best meal we ever had.

To give you an idea of what I’m talking about… Its well past 3 pm and we’ve been seating there for three hours, alone now in the back room. We are starting to feel a bit agitated that we havent received our bill, and we still have yet to get a tour of the magnificent cellar. Mrs Ziggy is now playing Candy Crush!! When Mrs Ziggy starts to play Candy Crush on her phone it means things are not going very well, unless she finally beats that crazy difficult level that makes her forget sometimes she has children. This kind of inconvenience would normally put a big damper on roughly 99% of our meals, but not even a dent in this one. 30 minutes before Candy Crush I was telling young Giampiero (the son) about how much fun we were having and that we did not mind sitting there for such a long time (we really didnt at the time). He either took my comment a bit too seriously or more likely rightfully shifted his attention to other patrons. That same attention we were so greatly enjoying the previous 3 hours.

I hope any of the Corderos reading this will only see the previous paragraph as the compliment it was intended and nothing more. Over 10 courses of absolute delight, with each dish and each item on each plate showing brilliance we have yet to witness anywhere. I vividly remember the lone caramelized fig sitting in the corner of the Veal Cheek dish, like the little shy girl that no one wants to dance with. That unassuming little thing carried surprising intense flavors, wow moment #8 or so. The same kind of attention to detail and top notch raw materials followed throughout without any hiccups whatsoever. A rare (for us) perfect blend of Slow Food and Michelin (1 star). We are very fortunate to visit places that lean one way or another, but very rarely, perhaps never, we’ve witness this kind of marriage

The room was well lit and simplistic. Not a whole lot decor wise. An American couple somehow stole our reservations but they still managed to accommodate us and seat us directly facing that couple. So we were able to give them the stink eye! The best way to experience Il Centro fully is for one to go for the tasting menu while the other A la carte. The tasting menu is basically 3 starters, and one primi, secondi, dolce that you choose from the menu. On to the food…

While I had plenty of steak tartars in my life, this was my first ever Carne Cruda – a Piedmontese specialty of chopped beef, not as finely minced as tartare. Helped by a shaving of White Truffles (26 euros fixed price) this was a top dish of the trip nominee, and led the way to more Carne Crudas to come. For those brainwashed and scared of raw meat, Carne Cruda is perhaps the best way of self hypnosis.

Porcini in a Parmigiano cup was another big winner. The delicate perfectly cooked Porcini went very well with the flavors and crunch of the cheese. It was like eating Porcini for the very first time. The attractive Pepper plate stuffed with tuna a bit overshadowed by the other two but would have easily been a hit anywhere else. Faraona (Guineafowl) was simple yet quite exquisite. The best compliment I can give to any dish is that it changed the way we order in other restaurants. Like the Carne Cruda, this Faraona led to three more during the trip

Tajarin with ragu was rich and pleasant. Not as explosive as La Torre in Cherasco but still quite good. Ravioli stuffed with beef and topped with sausage and chicken liver ragu was even better. The liver especially elevated this dish to another level. Another wow moment came with the veal cheek caramelized with figs. Sweet, deep lasting flavors, and as tender as veal can get. And the aforementioned little fig in the corner was an eye opener. Codone beef (top), essentially a hazelnut loving local breed accompanied by a fragrant fruity salad was another revelation. The secret to happiness is happy cows

The best thing I can say about the hazelnut dessert trio on top of the menu is nothing, because I don’t want to spoil the surprise to those who will experience this. It’s like telling you the ending of Breaking Bad. A must get, along with the gelato

We drank a 2010 Cascina Val Del Prete Nebbiolo d’Alba, a winery based locally in Priocca. One of the best wines we drank the entire trip which was filled with great Barbarescos and Barolos

A visit to the magnificent cellar was the perfect finish to a most memorable meal. Bravissima!

Church around the corner

Categories: Italy, Piedmont | Tags: Best restaurants in Piedmont, food, Il Centro Piedmont, Il Centro Priocca, Piedmont Dining, restaurants, Travel | 2 Comments

Torrechiara Castle near Parma

Posted on December 28, 2014 by Ziggy

Since this is a food blog, a fitting subtitle for this post can be Locanda Mariella part II. Just in case anyone needed more convincing to schlep an hour south of Parma to the Apennine mountains. This castle, perhaps a dairy producer (Ciaolatte) and the castle of Felino can be combined with lunch at Mariella for a nice day trip. The area between the Po and the mountains surrounding Parma is in fact flooded with well preserved castles. But none of them is as intact and as remarkable as Torrechiara. The castle was built by Pier Maria Rossi, count of San Secondo, in the 15 century mainly for his mistress Bianca Pellegrini. Ok, lets pause for a second to examine this further. The count was married to Antonia Torelli, a noble woman, daughter of Count of Guastalla. He had an affair with another woman which as I understand was quite common at the time, fine. But building his mistress the greatest of all castles, and decorating each room with magnificent frescoes including that of her (Blue ceiling below)?. The dude had power! I had to ask permission to throw out the garbage this evening.

The castle is perched on a hill and offers sweeping valley views. A hill whose height I overestimated a bit as I drove way past it until we found the castle again and coincidentally one of the best kodak moments ever in Italy (top shot). It was all by design, I told Mrs Ziggy. Once inside the castle the main draw is all the various theme frescoes decorating each room. Some of the most important rooms are Camera d’Oro (golden chamber) the tribute to Bianca Pellegrini, and Salone dei Acrobati showcasing, you guessed it, naked acrobats.

Courtesy of wikipedia

Categories: Emilia-Romagna, Italy | Tags: Parma Castles, Torrechiara Castle, Travel, travel+photography | 1 Comment

Trattoria di Via Serra {Bologna}

Posted on December 23, 2014 by Ziggy

It pains me to post only 5 pictures in this one. In a span of 10 days we had about 10 exceptional meals, including 5 meals that I can only describe as epic. Each epic meal was like a story. A story filled with interesting characters, intrigue, wine, passion, surprises, wrong turns, betrayal, tears, tears of joy and a lot of time. An epic meal requires extra time, preferably on a Sunday, and preferably as far from the center as possible. Bologna, arguably the greatest food city in Italy produced one of those on a little street behind the train station called Via Serra.

For the family sitting next to us, it was just another regular Sunday afternoon meal at one of their favorite neighborhood spots. For us however, the only tourists in the house, it was anything but. “Only tourists” unless you count our new friends from Turin who we stumbled upon again after meeting them the night before at All’Osteria Bottega, another Bologna gem. As far as I’m concerned, friendships start when someone offers me food. And as I reached for a scoop of the neighbors homemade Gnocchi with pumpkin cream sauce, much to the horror of the other family, I thought to myself, that could have been dish #6. I had room, damn it.

Via Serra is as “Slow Food” as it gets. The duo of Flavio and Tommaso have sort of a history together that reached peak levels with a successful spot down in the mountains, Osteria del Sole in Zocca. Tommaso, like so many other Slow Food cooks (they don’t like to be called chefs I learned over the years), has no formal culinary training. He was working in a dairy equipment manufacturer before he decided to change careers and showcase what he learned from dad. In fact right after our lunch they closed for a week to visit their families and the various producers in their respected areas. “Continued Education” as we call it in the states. Tommy traveled to Campobasso to scout butchers for a traditional Sunday Molise ragu (liver sausage, cotechino, sausage, ribs and minced shoulder in a tomatoes sauce). We came on the wrong Sunday it seems, but very far from a bad one

During this trip we drank all sorts of great wine, some more memorable than others. But none had the same affect as the house red here. Perhaps the best house red we ever had. On the board it just says “Rosso Bologna”, a 60% Barbera, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Flavio explained that its a local producer, completely organic called Maria Bortolotti. The aromas that came out of this one are those that you smell when you go to sleep the same night. Or is it just me and I should probably talk to a food/wine psychiatrist about that. Robustness in a very good way (unlike the Barbaresco at the Commune in Neive). Quite full bodied, nicely balanced with big tannins for a house wine.

Here you need to pay attention to the daily specials. We started with a fantastic Pate di Fegatini. Sweet, creamy, buttery goodness. Pate freak Mrs Ziggy was in liver heaven. Piada was a lot of fun. Not quite as thin as a traditional Piadina and without much of the lard but quite delicious. Its served with prosciutto and fresh soft Squacquerone cheese from the nearby Castel San Pietro. A fun traditional snack normally associated with the Romagna towns to the east.

The Primis we picked from the regular menu. Traditional Tagliatelle with ragu – it never ceases to amaze me how much flavor they exude from so little meat. Six fat Tortelloni with butter and sage, of the explosive, sinfully good kind. Outstanding Faraona arrosto, filled with stuffing made of bread, egg, cheese, and more Faraona. Best Faraona (guinea fowl) of the trip, but also quite different. Mrs Z is a little more fond of the Faraona overall, but I’m game! (Get it? I’m game!). Coffee gelato and homemade Nocioni was the perfect finish to one of those meals.

Via Serra is on Via Serra, 5-10 minutes past the train station. From the outside it looks like one of those hip London spots, because it was sort of was. It used to belong to the hotel next door that opened a posh spot that didn’t quite fit the neighborhood very well. Inside however, Via Serra couldn’t be more different than the previous tenant, starting with the philosophy. Those guys pay zero attention to how your plate looks and around 100% to the ingredients that goes on it. And Flavio in true Slow Food style will talk about those ingredients like new parents talk about their babies. Except in this case you pay attention, and enjoy.

Categories: Emilia-Romagna, Italy | Tags: Best Restaurants in Bologna, Bologna, Bologna slow Food, food, restaurants, Trattoria di Via Serra Bologna, Travel | Leave a comment

24 Hours in Lake Orta

Posted on December 16, 2014 by Ziggy

In this food filled itinerary, the lake I like to call Lago d’Orta was not part of it initially. But guess what Mrs Z found out when she first Googled Piedmont and looked at the first images that came up. Text conversation:

Mrs Z: hey r we going to lake orta

Me: Neh!

Mrz Z: really?

Me: Thanks for ruining the surprise. Of course we r

As they say “Happy Wife, Happy Ziggy”

We enjoyed a full day after landing at MXP around 9 am with the lake only 45 minutes away. Picking up the car from Hertz was a breeze, waiting for the GPS to find a signal was not. How the Software Developer inner Ziggy did not think about restarting the unit is something only the Bill Gates gods can figure out. Either way, Google maps to the rescue. The car this time by the way was rather filthy. And I dont mean in a cool slang sort of way. We got a dirty car. One of those Fiats that turns off at traffic lights and requires sweet talk to move up a hill. But we made it in no time, and what we witnessed was something way better than what any of these images (and Google’s) capture

But there was another surprising aspect that contributed to this little one nighter even more than the lake itself. Food! As in the fairly new Agriturismo il Cucchiaio di Legno where we also spent the night. The Agriturismo is not on the lake so no lake views, although the lake is a short 5 minute drive. I imagined that once I pass by the lake side hotels of Orta San Giulio I would have hotel envy, but that did not materialize. I was very happy with this choice and can not recommend it highly enough. And if you are staying elsewhere and enjoy good food you should at the very least make it for dinner. Sure you can have a nice meal at the 2 Michelim Villa Crespi or at Locanda di Orta which just got a star a few weeks ago, but for something more “homey” and casual it doesnt get much better than this Cucchiaio.

My type of menu here. the absent kind. You eat what they prepare that day, and boy did they prepare plenty. We indulged in a fine plate of Salumi, delectable little salmon bites, and an only in Piedmont shocking Syrian soup. Then came the “Welcome to Italy” green Risotto, and a homemade Fusilli with pork shoulder that served as another reminder that big flavors can come out from these unassuming simple dishes. A juicier than juice hen with potatoes, and an even juicier veal cheek sealed the deal before we heard those magic words we’ve never heard in a restaurant before. “Would you like some more” A 10 course feast for a mere 25 Euros. Considering how delicious everything was, it was like a bank robbery. We reminisced about a meal in Coimbra, Portugal as perhaps the only one that beat this value.

They also provided a very nice picnic basket for us for lunch that we used on the picnic tables of the Sacred Mount of Orta overlooking the lake. Just the two sandwiches in there worth the 10 € per person tag, but there was so much more. The hotel room was very spacious and modern, with a loft in case we have guests (you never know) or Mrs Ziggy gets mad at me for packing only shoes with holes (like I’m supposed to inspect carefully before packing). You also get a nice patio facing the back yard. The whole place is so serene during the day you can hear a lung collapse. I was surprised to see it run by 3 young girls, and the cook responsible for that wonderful feast, Luigi, is 28 years old. There must be a law that all young chefs in the lakes region must be called Luigi (ie Luigi of Salice Blu in Bellagio) and when they reach puberty they need to change names. Makes no sense if you ask me.

What else did we do besides eat and inspect shoes. We Spent some time in the Sacred Mount. Quite a stunning setting overlooking the lake, surrounded by it pretty much. Its a series of chapels depicting the life of Saint Francis of Assisi, from chasing goats as a child, to chasing goats as an adult. I like goats as well but in a different way. He apparently loved animals according to my friend. The place was nearly empty, and extremely quiet. If someone plays Doodle Jump down in Orta San Giulio you would hear the doodling. The lake views from here is what you mostly see on Google images. There are picnic tables by the parking lot, and I cant imagine a better setting for a picnic.

The town itself Orta San Giulio was so much more pleasant than I thought, that we didn’t feel like taking a boat to the island and instead just wandered all over town. We spent more time than Mrs Z liked in one particular deli with a chatty French owner where we sampled some salami and over 25 year old balsamic vinegar before we bought “Rafi”, the little truffle we carried with us the rest of the trip. Rafi was a good sport, vacuumed wrapped in rice and all. Update: Rafi is dead. Unless the guy made a switcheroo on us at the last minute, the truffle just did not have it by the time I used it a week later. The much anticipated dinner with our truffle at home turned out to be a simple Linguini with butter.

In short, Lake Orta is another gem that most Americans never heard of. And on this day at least I was happy that that was the case

Categories: Italy, Piedmont | Tags: Agriturismo il Cucchiaio di Legno, Best food in Lake Orta, food, Lago d'Orta, Lake Orta, Travel | 4 Comments

Antica Corte Pallavicina – When Life Gives You a Pig

Posted on December 12, 2014 by Ziggy

When we were young and down on life, my mama had this strange saying: When life gives you a pig, you make Culatello! Black pigs preferred, raised in Emilia Romagna or Lombardia she proceeded to explain. You take the muscular side of the back legs, aka the “heart” of the prosciutto, cure it, put it inside a pig’s bladder and let it age in the moldy caves and cellars somewhere near Zibello, north of Parma. As close as possible to the foggy Po river. “Its all about the Terroir” she proclaimed. And only then, it can be designated Culatello di Zibello DOP, essentially Prosciutto on crack. Prosciutto so prized, it has a different name. Just don’t tell anyone that Culatello means “Little Ass” as it may take away some of that power from the name, she warned. Or maybe she was talking beets and borscht, I may be confusing things.

Last month we spent a magical day and night at Antica Corte Pallavicina, the most famous producer of Culatello di Zibello out there. In fact, “You can use the bikes to bike all the way to Zibello on the bike path” our trusted host told us. Done, and doner, assuming spotting Zibello inland from a distance was close enough for our own aching “little asses”. But if I would have to pick 5 memorable moments on this trip, riding those bikes along the Po on that day, with those views, passing farms, and with the sun Arrivederciing in front of us, was one of those moments. Minutes earlier, we visited their famous black pigs, snacked on their own Strolghino (salami), Parmigiano-Reggiano (also aged in their cellars) and drank their own bubblies while sitting on the antique couch in the antiques filled room, watching their antique dog and antique cat very closely (Mrs Ziggy isn’t fond of animals and some humans. Ok, most humans)

For Massimo Spigaroli the journey started over 20 years ago, when he bought the 14th century castle with his brother. A castle and farm that saw Massimo’s great grandfather as a tenant (after he worked for Verdi who lives nearby). At the time it was more like ruins, after years of heavy beatings from Po flooding. Nowadays, its a farm, 6 room hotel, a Michelin star restaurant, and a major Culatello producer. Tourists from all over the world flock to the Corte to see one of Emilia Romagna’s greatest attractions, the cellar of dreams. Dreams as in if you want them to cure one of those Culatello’s for you, you are dreaming my friend. And you will keep dreaming for the next 3 years (waiting period). But meanwhile you can check out the tags of the black pig Culatello hanging in the front. Armani, Rene Redzepi (Noma), Alain Ducasse, Francescana (“my friend” Massimo Spigaroli tells me if I understood correctly), Prince Albert, Prince Charles, Prince Ziggy, Prince. We all have our dreams as you can see!

As for the meal, other than a few minor hiccups, it was exceptional. The restaurant has a fancy feel, but at the same time its unpretentious and comfortable. You feel like a guest of the estate rather than at a dining establishment. The combination of antique, modern, floor to ceiling glass windows, and the overall spaciousness felt unique. This is not Farm-to-Table. This is 50 yards-look-outside-your-window-what-do-you-see-to-Table

Once you settle down you are greeted with the homemade butter, Grissini, and a Cuban cigar box filled with delicious bread. I love a good bread and butter, especially when the butter is of perfect spreadable temperature. “When in Rome…” you go for the “Podium”, three Culatello aged 18, 27, and a black pig aged 37 months sitting at the top of the podium lip syncing the Italian national anthem. The 18 month was silky smooth, sweet, and in a bizarre way reminded me of delicious small dried fish. While the 37 was brinier, and packed in a lot more flavor. The 27 was somewhere in between.

Basic but fantastic Tortelli with ricotta and spinach. And an even better al dente Risotto crowned by green beans and surrounded by three gentle sauces that somehow worked nicely together. Very high degree of raw material throughout, though it didn’t quite work with the rabbit. Great ingredients, looks fantastic but the rabbit “cubes” a bit dry and uneventful. For the white Ox they add another large table to yours and carve the beast right in front of you. It was expertly cooked, on the rare side with great flavor, if not a tad too cool. The Ox plate included an exceptional supporting cast of mushrooms, various garden veggies and a fine tasting zucchini topped with Parma cheese and breadcrumbs.

For dessert we were lucky to be joined by our new friend who lives not too far away. And as expected, marvelous desserts here, especially the “Baba” rum cake which was just about the best rum cake I ever had. The top notch Mousse, was a great finish to a magical evening

Massimo Spigaroli is very proud of his place, a celebrated one Michelin star. While in NYC Michelin stars are distributed like candy (I got one!) in Italy there are standards that must be met. I normally dont pay as much attention to service as others do, but it was hard to overlook this kind of hospitality. Since we had to leave early to a dairy producer and couldnt stay for breakfast, the staff prepared a box filled with more Culatello, and various homemade goodies. In a food oriented trip such as this, Antica Corte Pallavicina fit the itinerary like a glove

Categories: Emilia-Romagna, Italy | Tags: Antica Corte Pallavicina, Best restaurants in Emilia Romagna, Culatello, Culatello di Zibello, food, restaurants, Travel | 4 Comments

Bologna’s Porticos, Knobs and Porticos

Posted on December 5, 2014 by Ziggy

This one goes out to all those readers with those special needs, sufferers of Porticos and/or Door Knob fetishes. You know who you are and you should also know that you are not alone. ~~Tens~~ thousands of people with such infliction flock the porticos of Bologna annually. They tell their friends and neighbors that they go to the food capital of the world, the place that invented the Bologna Sandwich (neglecting to explain the intricacies of the Mortadella and its bastardized American version to the clueless neighbor. Smart move savvy traveler, smart move). But what they dont tell their friends, because they cant comprehend, is all about the joy of running around through Bologna’s 40 Kilometers of Porticos, with minimal clothing sometimes. But who am I to judge.

Those same Porticos have been around for hundreds of years (some since the 12th century), and while other Italian cities outlawed them at some point, Bologna continued to Portico itself to become the Portico capital of the world. That includes of course the longest Portico in the world, 3,796 meters running from the city walls up to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca. Not quite the climb for us (hey, I’m on vacation, not competing for the biggest loser)

And as to the door knobs all over the historic center, well, they are just pretty door knobs.

Categories: Emilia-Romagna, Italy | Tags: Bologna, Bologna Porticos, Travel | 5 Comments

Trattoria La Coccinella {Serravalle Langhe} – Game Changer

Posted on December 2, 2014 by Ziggy

November 2024 Update

Original Post:

I’m having a writer’s block of the worst kind. Earlier this evening I burned some of my more useful fingers on both hands in a freakish oven accident, so the process of typing is hampered a bit. Lets just say DO NOT USE OVEN MITTS BOUGHT IN PUERTO RICO GIFT SHOPS. I’m strongly considering unfriending the person who gave it to me on Facebook. Only problem is I’m not sure exactly who that person is, and I dont have a Facebook account. It hurts almost as much as listening to Ariana Grande in the car, a condition that millions of dads these days are suffering from at the moment. Why would anyone buy cheap oven mitts anyway. Oven mitts got only one job really when you think about it. Like the hideous looking car bumper protectors you see on the roads used to protect and preserve bumpers from scratches, purchased by the same people who can no longer wrap their remote controls in plastic due to public pressure. One job: PROTECT YOUR HANDS FROM SECOND DEGREE BURNS. Failed!

This is extremely unfair of me to write about my damaged precious fingers in a post about one of our favorite, most talked about meals in recent memory. But I’m also using the blog in a way as a diary in case I’ll have to write a book at some point. I was told that that is the next step for a successful food blogger. The only minor hurdle is the “Successful” part, and learning how to write properly. Or spell!

La Coccinella was particularly memorable in many ways. Starting from the spectacular drive to Serravalle Langhe from Barolo where at some point the sudden silence from Mrs Z meant that she wanted me to concentrate on the road and not look at all the beauty surrounding us. I remember clearly the majestic Lady of the Snow church in Monforte D’alba that we found on the way. The Israeli couple we met in the parking lot of the restaurant. The drive to Serralunga d’Alba after the meal that made me want to go to the bathroom, partly out of fear but mostly just because I needed to go to the bathroom. But most of all it was the meal and the hosts, the three stooges, Alessandro, Massimo and Tiziano, who dished out one magical plate after another. The anticipation, and a quick glance at the menu meant cancelling all post meals appointments. We are staying for another marathon.

I opted for the truffle menu. Three dishes shaved with white truffles resting comfortably on the table. Carne Cruda, while quite exceptional, I couldnt help but compare it to the artistry in Priocca the day before which was one of the top dishes of the trip. A lone Raviolone stuffed with potato and egg, oozing with greatness. At this point I realize this is perhaps the most flavorful truffles of the trip. The truffle finale was the outstanding egg with Bra cheese fondue. Truffles and eggs – could not get enough of them during the trip

The menu also features antipasti with the option of trying all of them. Guess what option we chose. Salmon, shrimp and cheese ball set the tone nicely. A lovely Porcini tart followed. When Mrs Ziggy eats anything with mushrooms that means you just did something special. Perhaps the most interesting thing we ate here came in the form of an onion. Upon arrival, the first signal from the brain is that there’s no conceivable way this thing tastes good. Its an onion! An onion that is baked with salt then filled with chicken liver, baked some more, sprinkled by some more salt and Voila! One of the most unique and delicious dishes of the trip. Lastly an outstanding veal terrine with a supporting cast that would make Woody Allen envious: An onion marmalade and a veggie tart.

Mrs Z was also especially taken by the Plin stuffed with cheese. Surprising big flavors coming out of these unassuming little things. The leaning tower of Porcini with potato was nice and meaty, though could have used a touch more seasoning. Hazelnut/chocolate cake was the perfect finish to a very enjoyable meal. One of a handful marathon meals we did during this trip, and one I would love to repeat. I can not recommend this one more highly. Well, judging by the start of this post I guess I could but choose not to.

Trattoria La Coccinella

Via Provinciale A3, 5, 12050 Serravalle Langhe CN

Categories: Italy, Piedmont | Tags: Best restaurants in Langhe, Best restaurants in Piedmont, food, restaurants, Trattoria La Coccinella, Trattoria La Coccinella Serravalle Langhe, Travel | Leave a comment

Cremona – Violins R Us

Posted on November 25, 2014 by Ziggy

(Filed under Emilia Romagna. Close enough ;))

When I asked master violin maker Robert Gasser if I can stop by at his workshop in Cremona, he asked me if I play the violin. Before I said no, I quickly checked to see if there’s a violin version of Guitar Hero. Turns out its a no! Also, turns out master violin makers close sometimes for lunch, as we painfully found out while touring Violinville. But that’s ok. We got a good taste of what this gem of a city is all about. Until I had to call AT&T to upgrade my data plan, and in turn have my phone completely disconnected somehow for the rest of the day.

Before Robert Gasser there was the Amati family, building violins in Cremona from 1538 to 1740. Other families like the Stradivari followed suit, and the city’s connection to the violin never looked back. Nowadays, you got violin maker workshops, bow makers workshops, statues, schools, and yes.. the all important violin shaped chocolates and cakes. Violins are everywhere your turn. And if you are a music lover, or can really rock Guitar Hero, you may find the Violin Museum very interesting. Convenient public parking is right across the street.

But there’s more to Cremona than violins. The Duomo with its magnificent façade and frescos is one of the most underrated in Italy. At some point we found ourselves almost alone, while we prayed for world peace, and for the AT&T rep to get shingles. The climbable bell tower is the tallest pre-modern tower in Italy, hence the symbol of the city. The baptistery even with all its nakedness looks rather glamorous inside.

Cremona is as non-touristy as they come seems like for a large city. Extremely clean and very bike friendly. For a New Yorker like me, seeing older ladies riding bikes is always a Kodak moment, and right up there with attractive young women collecting garbage. Food wise, I was in a way glad I could not find the pizza place I planned on due to my phone not working. Because plan B turned out to be quite good. Tramezzini are soft white bread with the crust removed, and judging by the lines, Ugo Grill is the place to get them. Because of the lack of crust and the texture of these sandwiches you are in the mercy of the place delivering high quality ingredients, and Ugo certainly does, starting with their homemade mayo.

Courtesy of Ugo’s Facebook

Categories: Emilia-Romagna, Italy | Tags: Cremona, Cremona Italy, Cremona Violins, Travel, Ugo Grill Cremona | 3 Comments

Sale Grosso – Is This Bologna’s Top Seafood Option?

Posted on November 23, 2014 by Ziggy

Reports of the seafood demise in Bologna may have been Sale Grossly exaggerated. You like it? I thought of that line while shaving this morning, which is were I do most of my deep thinking. Whenever I say that for some reason the usual reply is “You should think about growing a beard”. With a beard not only I would not be mistaken for Russell Crow anymore, but I would also be single and unemployed. My full time job involves solving software related issues and very often the solutions come to me when I shave. It also helps me with the various daily First World Problems like figuring out where I left my iPhone, what to have for lunch, who really shot Jr, and why are my shoes wet. Turns out the shoes were wet due to exhilarated excitement of some nieces and nephews playing hide and seek in the closet the night before. Yes, they get excited and they pee in your shoes.

Also during shaving I normally devise the all important action plan of where we’ll be eating seafood on our next trip. We normally find ourselves craving seafood at some point of any trip, especially in Italy, regardless of our proximity to the sea. La Tellina in Sienna was a nice find last year, while Le Mani in Pasta in Rome was less successful but hit some marks. In this case, I figured after a week of heaviness in Piedmont and ER, Bologna would be the place for seafood, and all signs pointed to Sale Grosso. Hidden in some alley in the university area, and with some locals never even heard of it, the “hidden gem” cliche comes to mind. In fact some locals even turned up their noses at the idea of eating seafood in Bologna

I don’t mean to set you up for another feast as it actually turned out to be a rather light lunch, at least for our vacation standards. Burratina (Burrata) with Bottarga (salted dried tuna roe “sticks”), shockingly good, and grows on you as you are nibbling on it. Bottarga is not something you normally see on NY menus. The Burrata was oozing with richness and went very well with the salty dried tuna, and the olive oil used was especially noteworthy. Octopus, simply grilled, tender and absolutely delicious, arrived with some of the best tasting grilled veggies we had on this trip.

Rolled breaded fish stuffed with raisins, pine nuts and other unidentified objects came with expertly cooked Broccoli Rabe and creamy tomato water. Perhaps the dish of the day, which included a very nice dinner later on. Spaghetti with Seafood was perfectly al dented with generous amount of fresh shellfish and fish. This is what every basic Spaghetti with Seafood should taste like.

Smiling, friendly owner, slightly overdressed for the occasion, unless we all were underdressed. Wife who wasnt there is the brainchild of the Mediterranean inspired menu. She’s from Bologna but with southern roots. And the cook during lunch was from Puglia where some of the lunch dishes get their inspiration from. Nice and comfortable room, popular with locals and nearby university students and staff. Looked like we were the only tourists there. While the lunch menu showed plenty of market freshness and creativity, during dinner things pick up a notch. Check out Sale Grosso guys

Now if you excuse me I need to go shave in order to figure out what to wear tomorrow. Ciao!

Categories: Emilia-Romagna, Italy | Tags: Best seafood in Bologna, Bologna, food, Italy, restaurants, Sale Grosso Bologna, Travel | Leave a comment

When in Barolo.. You do Grissini

Posted on November 20, 2014 by Ziggy

Barolo, arguably Italy’s grandest, most celebrated wine, is produced in the magnificent Langhe Hills in Piedmont. Visitors from all over the world flock to the Barolo zone, and the picturesque hamlet that bares its name to see where the magic is made. You got the wine museum, cork museum, wine tasting galore in every corner, wine, wine and more wine everywhere you turn in the entire region. You arrive through Barolo vineyards, leave through Barolo vineyards, and make wrong turns on purpose as you drive through more vineyards. So naturally, here we are, flying 4000 miles from NYC to Barolo, risking our lives while maneuvering our little Fiat up and down mountains through regional roads built for smaller Fiats. All that for.. you guessed it… Breadsticks!

Before the trip I arranged to meet with Daniela Cravero, who along with her brother and son, operate an artisanal breadstick bakery, Fratelli Cravero, smack in the middle of the town of Barolo. Its a tiny little village of 700, and something tells me the Craveros would be happy to teach anyone without any special appointments. But before I begin to tell you about this little jewel, I need to explain the importance of breadsticks to Piedmont and Italy

The story begins just like many other food stories begin… with constipated leaders (Like David Ben Gurion leading to the invention of Israeli Couscous). It started in 1675 with the young Victor Amadeus II from the House of Savoy who was suffering from all sorts of digestive ailments. His mom asked the court physician if there’s anything he can do, and the physician recalling his own digestive issues as a child, remembered his mom feeding him some sort of cracker. So he then asked the court baker (How do I get one of those – Craigslist?) to produce something similar that is fully baked and voila! The breadstick is born, young Vito poops regularly and becomes king of Sicily, then king of Sardinia, winning some key battles. You could say if not for breadsticks Italy would have been part of Austria today. Another duke of Savoy was addicted to the stuff, not so much to eating it, but crushing them with his hands while watching opera. Must have been extremely annoying to the season ticket holders right next to him. Even Napoleon upon discovering Grissini, set up a special UPS service to ship them from Turin to Paris daily.

These days, step inside La Torre in Cherasco (above) and the first thing you notice is not only a bouquet of Grissini with other bread occupying the entire side of your table, but the same setup on every empty table (empty because you are a tourist eating before everyone else, partly because you are terrified of your GPS and its pitch dark terrifying shortcuts). No flower bouquet can compete with this welcome, or as yummy. The same Grissini then follow you all over Piedmont tables and well into Emilia Romagna. The tradition is as strong as a Barolo. While here in America the closest we have to any sort of breadstick tradition is that of Olive Garden, who bastardized the breadstick just like we did with the Bologna, Alfredo sauce, and everything else Italian.

The process at Cravero, the areas only Grissini maker, starts early with the dough preparation. The kneading, the mixing with hazelnuts, rosemary, hot peppers, or other carefully selected ingredients as the Craveros have been doing for the past 35 years. We witnessed them prepare the bulky strips, applying the final touches to form the correct density to prevent any bubbles during the rise. Then.. long lunch, coffee, manicure, nap Italian style, letting the dough rise and do its thing for four hours. After that the dough is flattened and fed to a machine which produces the small strips which are then easily hand stretched before its bake time. All that in front of drunk onlookers fresh from their wine tastings, peeking through the window.

Actually, there doesnt seem to be much rest for Daniela and the boys. The store is not going to run itself, the exquisite truffles Daniela showed us, will not smell themselves, and there’s more baking to be done. Traditional hazelnut cakes, cookies, “Floglie” crisps, and Tajarin pasta. We were particularly fond of the crispy “Maize Biscuits” which we are still enjoying at home 3 weeks later. Cant make it to Barolo? You can find some of the products throughout Piedmont, Emilia Romagna, Lombardy shops, and in popular local restaurants like Villa Tiboldi, and the Slow Food darling Consorzio in Turin.

The legend of the Grissini is alive and well, and the tradition can be felt in Barolo and throughout Piedmont. Whether the story of young stud Amadeus and his determined mom is true or not, here’s to Grissini, and here’s to all the moms out there.

http://www.grissinicravero.com/en/