Italy

Florence – Scenes from Nerbone and Mercato Centrale

Posted on July 21, 2013 by Ziggy

During dinner an hour ago while we enjoyed ~~overcooked 10% fat flavorless~~ fantastic burgers with fresh mozzarella, I asked the clan what do you remember most from Nerbone and Mercato Centrale. Here are the results:

Child #1: It smelled of fish

Child #2: I need to go to the bathroom

Wife #1: The lines and confusion at Nerbone but fantastic pastas, market with great assortment and display of things like a cows head.

Agree on all counts. For all the food lovers out there, and if you are reading this blog, unless you have a bizarre misspelled words fetish, you probably are a food lover – This is the place to visit in Florence.

Lets start with Nerbone, serving the Cucina Povera since 1874, and I got the picture to prove it. Meaning, the picture of the sign that says since 1874, not a picture from 1874. Don’t believe anyone can dispute that fact. This is a very popular place and you cant really miss it inside the market. You do need to come early (before noon if you can) to beat the crowds and not much later than that as by around 1 to 1:30 they may start running out of things.

You stand on the line leading to the cashier, order the pastas and the sandwiches and pay. At this point you get the pastas on the spot and get a ticket that shows how many sandwiches you ordered. You then need to go on another line leading to the counter on the right, present the ticket, and tell them again the sandwich(es) you want. The ticket will just show the number of sandwiches you paid for. I suggest doing what we did; dispatch the kids to find seats while you wait on line, pay, eat the pastas, then dispatch the wife to get the sandwich (what, I did all the work doing all this amazing research)

Available pastas differ every day. On this day we enjoyed a very good funghi risotto (much better than a risotto we had at a former Michelin star in orvieto later in the trip), a terrific Tagliatelle with rabbit sauce, and an ok Farfale with pesto. On our first full day in Italy we got a little excited with the pastas so only one sandwich to share. A very good Bolitto (boiled beef) with salsa verde (green sauce). Good bread and although I was wishing for more meat, it was an enjoyable Panini. Highly recommend Nerbone Italy - 2013 216

When people ask me, “Ziggy, what in your opinion is the top museum in Italy” simple answer for me really; The Rialto market in Venice. The most colorful, unusual, jaw dropping pieces of art I’ve ever seen. Ok, no one really asked me that question yet. But if anyone ever asks me, that would be my answer (can someone please ask me that question in the comment section, so I can finally use that line in cocktail parties in NYC). Also, can someone please invite me to a cocktail party.

Anyway, really enjoyed walking around this market/museum. I wouldn’t mind coming here on an empty stomach tasting everything in sight. So much better than a Sunday in Costco!

Categories: Florence, Italy, Tuscany | Tags: florence, Florence restaurants, food, Italy, Mercato Centrale Florence, Nerbone florence, restaurants, Travel, tuscany | 3 Comments

Gattavecchi – Flavor Carnival in Montepulciano

Posted on July 18, 2013 by Ziggy

So where to start? Great drives, great scenery, great architecture, great George Costanza like statues, GREAT EATS. What should my first post about this trip be? I find my answer in my wallet. A card from Lilian Oliveira, the passionate Brazilian cook at Gattavecchi. The card momentarily takes me back to Lilian’s kitchen and the moment she gives me the card. You could see it in her eyes, as if she’s saying “You start with me, little man”.

But lets go back for a second, 2 hours earlier for the “Favor” that led us to Lilian. We get one ravioli, a small sample of Pici, Tagliatelle, and Pappardelle that we just made from scratch at our fun cooking class in Le Logge del Vignola. Not enough for a full meal. As good as it was, the idea that we almost ate our own cooking on that gorgeous day in Montepulciano instead of the once in a lifetime La Cucina di Lilian, makes me shiver slightly

The Gattavecchi Cantina, lies just outside the city center, an oasis far away from the tourists, at least it seems. The serene garden setting makes you feel like you’ve just driven 15 kilometers (far away in Tuscan country side standards) to eat here. Step inside and you are transported to a 12th century convent where you’ll find a large convent dining room and the wine cellars. Daniela Gattavecchi, who gave us a little tour, along with her 2 brothers, are 4th generation proud wine makers.

But we are here for the food. 4 outstanding dishes including a best of the trip nominee. The salumi platter was one of the best of a very salumi filled trip. The addictive truffled salami alone elevates this one to another level. Then, best dish of the trip nominee, an assorted Bruschetta plate we’ve never seen – died and gone to Bruschetta heaven. Salsa verde with melted cheese, savory liver pâté (best of the trip – Lilian makes it with wine and fruit), all kinds of great concoctions in a cup including a potatoes-onion-bell pepper thingy (blogger technical term), and my favorite white beans spread with bread and veggies (ribolita?). A plate as spectacular as the views around it

A second course of excellent gnocchi with mozzarella and light tomato sauce, and Taglietelle with Cinghiale (wild boar) ragu, a carnival in my mouth, capped this memorable meal. All washed down of course with a great tasting of Gattavecchi’s Rosso di Montepulciano, Nobile di Montepulciano, and Nobile Riserva.

One unforgettable moment was a visit to Lilia’s kitchen. It didnt take long to see that passion and realize that “We are not in Kansas anymore”, or NYC where I’m from. You just dont see this in an ordinary looking place like this in America where you may see perhaps 2 people chatting about the new record they just set in Doodle Jump on the last smoking break. In comparison, you have an army, a team led by a passionate cook that will not let anything less than perfect leave that kitchen. A kitchen filled only with the freshest, and finest raw ingredients. An eye opener.

Cant recommend this gem in Montepulciano highly enough. And special thanks to the local who recommended it. You know who you are

Categories: Italy, Tuscany | Tags: food, Gattavecchi, Gattavecchi Montepulciano, Italy, Montepulciano, Montepulciano restaurants, restaurants, Travel, tuscany | 5 Comments

Italy – The Itinerary

Posted on July 15, 2013 by Ziggy

So we just came back from 12 days traveling in beautiful Italia. I was asked a few times already for the complete itinerary so figured I might as well post it here.

Short Version: Florence 3 nights, Pick up car, Lucca 1 night, Villa near Montepulciano 4 nights, Rome 4 nights

Long Version:

Day 1) Florence – Got to the hotel (Palazzo Alfani – no complaints) around noon. Quick lunch at Pugi pizza. Just strolled around the center mostly, great ice cream at Carabé, visited Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Palazzo Vecchio (must) along with an easy climb of its tower. Good dinner at Sostanza

Day 2) Florence – Fantastic full day. Duomo climb in the morning (a must!), Duomo museum, Bargello gallery, lunch in Nerbone at the Central market, stroll around the market (must), Santa Maria Novella, Procacci for snack/drink, Carapina for ice cream (perhaps best of the trip) lovely dinner at La Pentola

Day 3) Florence – David at athe Accademia (across the street from the hotel), Pitti Palace + gardens, Lunch at Da Ruggero, Santa Croce church we found closed for an event. Good Ice Cream at dei Neri, the great synagogue, Basilica di San Miniato al Monte (must!), Piazzale Michelangelo, dinner at Osteria San Niccolò (meh)

Day 4) Lucca – Picked up car in Florence. Stayed in Alla Dimora Lucense for the night. All sorts of snacks for lunch between 2 place right near each other, Da Felice and Giusti. Toured Lucca’s old town all day including biking the walls. Dinner at Barrala

Day 5) Pisa/Volterra/Villa Grazianella. Drove to Pisa, then Volterra where we took a private tour with a local, Annie Adair from Tuscan Tours. Lunch with Annie at l’incontro. Drove to Villa Grazianella near Montepulciano and spent the rest of the day there at the pool. Great dinner at the Villa where we stayed for 4 nights

Day 6) Villa Grazianella. Drove all over the region. Started with cheese tasting and tour at the Il Casale farm (must), Drove to Abbey of Sant’Antimo stopping at Bagno Vignoni on the way. Lunch at Il Pozzo in S. Angelo In Colle. Quick stop at Montalcino followed by a visit to spectacular La Foce villa and 5 pm tour. Dinner at La Porta in Monticchiello

Day 7) Villa Grazianella. Pasta making cooking class at Le Logge del Vignola in Montepulciano, toured the town, lunch at Gattavecchi (wow). Visited the towns of San Quiricio and Pienza. Dinner at Da Roberto in Montisi

Day 8) Villa Grazianella. Day trip to Sienna. Lunch in La Tellina. Drive to Asciano for the views. Dinner at Piccola Trattoria Guastini in the village of Valiano

Day 9) Rome. Heavy regret for not staying one more night in the villa. Drive to Rome, with a major stop in Orvieto on the way. Check into our hotel in Rome, Trastevere Colors (4 nights). Dinner in the Testaccio district. Pizzeria da Remo, followed by some snacks in 00100 Pizza.

Day 10) Rome. Just walked around the Pantheon and Trevi area. Lunch in La Campana. Borghese gallery, Spanish Steps. Dinner in Le Mani in Pasta

Day 11) Rome. Colosseum, Forum, walk to campo for the market. Snack in Roscioli Bakery, Il Farno campo, Monti area including Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, and moses in San Pietro in Vincoli. Dinner at Roscioli

Day 12) Rome. Vatican including garden tour. Lunch in Il Sorpasso, Piazza Navona, the great synagogue, dinner in Cesare al Casaletto

Day 13) Staten Island, NY ;( Walked around Trastevere area in the morning. Fly back home