Author Archives: Ziggy

Garum 2.1 {Cordoba} – Bistronomics 101

Posted on July 2, 2024 by Ziggy

When you follow a dud with a triumph the next night, it feels particularly gratifying. Two duds in a row on vacation is hard to stomach, like watching a US presidential debate these days. Even an average meal after a dud feels incomplete. You need an epic to compensate, and that’s what we got at Garum 2.1, along with one of those rare breed waiters.

Talking about presidential debates, just like Bidenomics, Bistronomics is all about empowering from within. In Andalucia it means taking traditional dishes like Salmorejo, Rabo de toro to the next level. There’s a menu display outside of Garum (or was it inside) that upon closer inspection is actually a trophy display. A list of Garum 2.1 Tapas including traditional that received awards. As a tourist, you appreciate places that take tradition and culture seriously. You feel that throughout the the south of Spain especially thanks to places like Garum 2.1.

I chose Garum over the now closed Paco Morales bar. After taking a close look at the latter I was just not feeling it. One reason I chose Garum was the numerous mentions of one particular waiter which we happen to get as well. In Malaga we encountered our favorite overall staff of the trip, but this may be the most brilliant waiter. Humble, super polite, accommodating, and really just another level of service. Truly a rare breed.

As tourists we are hardly Salmorejo (sort of a cold tomato soup) experts, but this was pretty darn good. As with most Salmorejos we had, the flavor is fairly strong (a good thing), and overpowering most of the “toppings” (still a good thing). So they look and feel more or less like beauty contests if anything. But the flavors were prevalent with this one.

If you never had a proper Spanish Tortilla this is a good place to try it. Just the right texture. Octopus with fried pig ears over creamy potato purée was the star of show. The creamy potato was an unexpected Andalucian specialty we encountered throughout the region. The Rabo de Toro (oxtail) was something we couldnt get enough during this trip, and this award winning version might have been the best one.

A new dish on the menu was Artichoke with seafood and a superb seafood bisque I could drink like a smoothie. A rule of thumb in Andalucia is Torrija (like a bread pudding) and/or cheesecake for dessert wherever available. Here you get another great Torrija and a fine cheese mousse with fruits. Washing it all down with another excellent Verdejo. Go!

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An Update to the Update

Posted on June 27, 2024 by Ziggy

Two days after I updated the Z-List, of course Khe-Yo closes. Just two days shy of its 11th bday. One of the only if not the only Laos restaurants in NYC. Although its been a staple on the list for a while, I haven’t been for dinner since the pandemic. Our last meal was lunch a few years back. I get the sense that rising costs was a big factor. Running a restaurant in NYC especially in that part of the city is as tough as it ever been, and prices reflect. Speaking of pricy, Khe-Yo is replaced by the excellent Raoul’s on the list.

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Malaga (and Area) Random

Posted on June 25, 2024 by Ziggy

I’m entitled to one lazy post per quarter, where I just show you some shaky hand pictures and call it a day. Hey, I dont make the rules. But I might as well take this opportunity to inform you that Malaga is stunning. We expected an average Spanish metropolitan with the usual array of historic sites. But instead we got a picturesque historic center that made us cancel all the historic sites we planned.

Winding, narrow streets full of monuments and striking architecture. Its a giant maze of cuteness (as much as I dislike using the word). Whenever we tried to see other areas like SoHo (dont get me started again), Malaga Park and port area, we were drawn back to the historic area like a magnet. Make sure to see the eye popping Mercado Central de Atarazanas as well. Earlier in the morning preferably as it can get crowded during lunch time.

Colomares Castle nearby is good for what it is. A good way to spend an hour or so for selfies watching people doing selfies. Its a unique little place that can be combined with Mijas. Or skip both if you are pressed for time and spend more time in Malaga. The one thing I wouldnt skip however is Caminito del Rey. One of the most spectacular, terrifying but very doable hikes you’ll ever encounter. More on that on another post.

Highly recommend the H10 Croma hotel. Best H10 so far that ticks all the boxes. I already mentioned the terrific La Cosmopolita, one of three Dani Carnero establishments, with the head chef being the former owner of Da Andrea in NYC. Dont have any other food recommendations, but the food scene seems promising. Add Malaga to the mental bucket list.

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Z-List Update

Posted on June 22, 2024 by Ziggy

Still trying to keep the list at 30. 4 in, 4 out this time. I tried to include the excellent Ulivo and a few others but I got too many such places especially Italian. Leitao is the most exciting new find this year, but the rest are not too shabby, and not exactly new discoveries.

Out

Danji – Closed for too long due to fire. Not sure when and if it will reopen
Cull and Pistol – “So crowded no one goes there anymore” – Chelsea Market in a nutshell today
Somtum Der – Nothing wrong with SD. Just freshening up the list with new(er) Thai
Jun-Men Ramen – No longer open for lunch on weekdays so havent been in a while.

In

Song e Napule
Leitao
Thai Diner
Claro

The complete list

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Four Solid Options in Granada

Posted on June 17, 2024 by Ziggy

I was warned that Granada isnt particularly exciting when it comes to food. So I took it as a challenge. Whether I succeeded or not, it’s debatable. After our first night, a major dud well outside the tourist route, it looked like a fail. But things got surprisingly better in the tourist filled areas. The glaring fail was not so much the dud, but not coming up with a slam dunk as every other city in Andalucía accomplished, including tiny Jaen and Ronda. So more of a testament to the other meals. But these four should still entertain your taste buds plenty.

La Botillería

A long day in the Alhambra requires a serviceable meal on a pleasant shaded sidewalk. This was more than serviceable. Good egg dishes like the one with mushrooms and potato, or eggs with fava beans and Jamon. A more elaborate Flamenquín than usual (we are not fans overall but you need to try it somewhere). The creamy risotto is a signature here and I can see why, though we were more impressed by the free paella we got with the excellent drinks.

Bar Los Diamantes

Granada is a good place to wing it, and places like Bar Los Diamantes makes it easy to do. Its a local institution that got pretty touristy the last few years. But more importantly its a respectable fast casual fried seafood specialist. A big plus is that its open early in case you want to give your tired tourist body a break one day and skip another late meal. The light and fresh fried seafood mix didnt disappoint. But add the fine Galician octopus and Gambas al Ajillo to the mix to complete this one. Come earlier to avoid the line, even though it moves fast. Communal tables add to the joy.

El Trillo

If you’ve been following me for more than 5 minutes you know that I never recommend places strictly for views, and this post is no exception. But a trip to Granada feels incomplete without a meal at a “Carmen” house overlooking Alhambra. At El Trillo, you have that, along with the option of a cozy garden over the sunnier terrace. And the food is not too shabby.

Tuna, Cadiz style, stewed with onions and potatoes was better than a similar dish we had at a more renowned place. Try some of the rice dishes, like the risotto with wild boar and mushroom, or the sensational squid ink rice with chunks of octopus hiding inside. Grilled Turbot, not quite Getaria style (if you know, you know) is expertly cooked. The only thing that didnt impress us was dessert, so hopefully you will have better luck.

Oliver

A Bourdain approved legend in tourist central that’s surprisingly feels very local. Started as a small bar before becoming a full blown dining destination, all by the same Oliver family. Start like a local with a top grade Jamon. Tomato with burrata and pesto, simple and yet very satisfying. Succulent shrimp with garlic, and even better grilled squid. People flock here for the Paellas, one of the specialties. Finish with the superb cheesecake.


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Omakase Ichi – Staten Island’s First Omakase Dazzles

Posted on June 12, 2024 by Ziggy

Solid Ramen – check (Ohkami Ramen). Thai – check (Chang Noi Thai). Filipino – check (Phil-Am Kusina). Chinese – work in progress. Omakase – finally! Not that I’ve been holding my breath. But I had to do a triple take when I noticed Ichi on an awkward corner of Amboy while standing on a red light. Omakase is the last thing I expected to see there, though there’s no corner on this island where one would expect it. Refreshing to say the least, especially considering just about every opening lately is Turkish. This island needs Turkish like I need a stone in my shoe.

I’ve never been this excited about eating on the island. Come to think of it, I’ve never really been excited, period. Not to take away anything from many of the places we enjoy like the above mentioned and all the wonderful Sri Lankan. Its just that after 25 years of living here, we’ve been programmed to curb our enthusiasm. But this is Omakase!

Jimmy Wong, the owner, was one of three capable hands behind the counter. He first tested the waters of Long Island before opening his second location on Staten Island three months ago. I guess he figured Manhattan needs another Omakase like we need shingles (last one, I promise). Whether it will work here, I’m very curious to find out. There’s practically zero marketing with Ichi. An ambitious and expensive project to rely on red lights and word of mouth, but I truly hope it works.

You got 10 counter seats, three time slots (4, 6, 8), and ample parking about a block away. A fun, energetic hostess will loosen you up if needed. As with many of the high end Japanese in NYC, fish arrives daily from Japan. I believe the price was $115 p/p for 16 courses. In Staten Island its a special occasion type. In Manhattan, its Wednesday.

Omakase literally means “I leave the details up to you”, but you do get a sense of the kind of details to expect. Some crafty appetizers followed by a bunch of premium grade fish. But there were some surprises. Like the best Miso soup you will ever have that comes with mushrooms and a succulent scallop. Or the monkfish liver that comes with a syringe. And there was a jewelry box containing a truffle infused tuna tartare crispy roll on top of popcorn.

The “main” fish courses were the good, the great, and the dud. The lone dud was a mushy shrimp. Unless I’m on the coast of Sicily or some parts of Puglia munching on red shrimp, I’m not a fan of raw shrimp to begin with. The rest of the items especially the Uni, Scallop, Tuna Belly, King Salmon were superb or close.

As one would expect from a pricy Omakase, there were plenty of expensive ingredients like truffles, caviar, uni, but still letting the fish shine. The Sake was as exceptional as it gets from someone who doesnt drink Sake often. And the entire experience was memorable. Welcome to the neighborhood Ichi. Even though I cant afford you more than once or twice a year.

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Seville’s Feria is Bucket List Worthy

Posted on June 8, 2024 by Ziggy

So glad I didnt listen to the naysayers. Skip it, too crowded, it attracts like a bazillion thousand people, horse poop everywhere, you wont be able to get reservations. The last one almost made me reconsider and change plans. While I obviously cant compare this week to any other time, other than assume there are less people, the crowds for this New Yorker were not nearly as bad. Here’s everything you need to know about the Feria. Well, almost everything.

First, add it to the mental bucket list. A year ago I never even heard of this. But I feel like everyone should experience it at least once. Simply put, its one of the coolest things we’ve ever seen. Its Easter in New Orleans on crack. A week of celebrations, colors, horses, and a whole lot of beautiful people. Hence, we felt like we belonged.

The basics. Its a full week, normally in April (could be May in 2025). Google for the exact dates. Its held in an area well outside the city center so you can control how much Feria you want to have. At the Feria its essentially a huge scene, blocks and blocks of people celebrating inside their private “Casetas”, striped tents, where they drink and dance for much of the afternoon and night. Not to mention the parade of horses and carriages that brings the participants. And with everyone dressed in flamenco attire you essentially get the world’s largest free fashion show.

Do Plaza de España, preferably on Sunday afternoon. Even if you dont set foot at the Feria, just being in Seville that week is pretty cool. With so many well dressed participants flocking to Plaza de España, especially on the weekend after the fair start, its like being in a movie set

As for how to get there. Buses frequently run just outside Prado de San Sebastián and back. I believe there are other bus options but this is the most convenient in the center as of this writing. Its not free, but quite cheap at around a one euro p/p

Dont go in the morning. In Spain the later the better. In the early morning you’ll see Feria participants arriving back from a night full of partying. There’s not a whole lot going on there prior to noon, except cleanup.

There are public Casetas. But they are, well, public, so not nearly as attractive as the private ones. But you at least you can get a drink, and maybe some atmosphere. Try Rebujito, the official drink of the fair invented in 1985. You pay for a small pitcher.

As fun as it is you may suffer from sensory overload after a couple of hours. Go at around 5-6, before dinner. But you’ll see much of the city transform and people dressed up everywhere. One of many reasons to visit Andalucía.

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Breakfast by Salt’s Cure – Clinton St for Locals

Posted on June 5, 2024 by Ziggy

I dont believe that a PhD in Mathematics is enough to figure out the exact amount of syrup required on any given pancakes. How often do we put too little, too much, way too little, way too much, especially if its something like Trader’s Joe’s frozen blueberry pancakes. And then there’s the butter. How much is enough. Its 2024, and I have plenty of life challenges on the plate.

And what kind of Syrup anyway. My Aunt Jemima daughters would rebel when we served anything else. For years we would put both Aunt Jemima and Maple syrup on the table. Until they both moved out, and we gradually got rid of AJ. But turns out, they eventually move back in, so we met them halfway. Yes to Nutella (especially during Matzoh season), but no to Aunt Jemima.

Gothamist

Turns out someone on the west coast figured it all out. In 2010 the first Breakfast by Salt’s Cure opened in LA, and the lines quickly followed. “Breakfast” is the spinoff to Salt’s Cure (sugar?), a popular LA brunch spot hailed for the item that was essentially spun off, the Oatmeal Griddle Cake. Chris Phelps, the brain behind this has been perfecting these “pancakes” since age two.

As you can see, these pancakes wont win any beauty awards. Maybe miss congeniality. But they are as good as any pancakes you’ll ever have. And they certainly dont need syrup. In fact its a “no syrup for you” policy in all four locations (two in LA, two in NYC). Phelp’s Oatmeal mix, available for purchase, includes the perfect amount of cinnamon molasses. Not too sweet at all.

I’ve been passing through the lines at the West Village location for many months now. Coming at 9 am on a Sunday meant a 10-15 min wait. By 10 am it was more like 30 mins. Once inside you order and pay at the counter, and wait for them at your table. You have the option of various flavors like banana and blueberry. I was partial to the Banana with nuts, while the rest of the family preferred the original.

The combos add eggs and sausages to the mix, but even those items are not your typical diner variety. The eggs whether soft scrambled runny, sunny or over, are perfect. With regular pancakes and a dollop of syrup, eggs usually need to be completely separated. The sausages are more like thin eastern European cutlets. Not a bad thing. I went for the pork, but there’s also chicken and chickpeas (like a falafel cutlet I suppose). The saltiness of the sausages compensate for the lack on the eggs.

While tourists, rightfully so, wait for the pancakes at Clinton St Bakery, locals these days go to Salt’s Cure. While the pancakes at CSB are indeed good, I think much of the flavor comes from their warm Maple Butter, and the pancakes arent really as unique as Salt’s Cure. According to the hard working EWZ historians this is my first (and probably last) Breakfast post. Which means its an obvious Go!

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A Perfect Day of Eating in Montreal

Posted on May 31, 2024 by Ziggy

A long weekend in Montreal, after an 8 year hiatus produced a tail of two eating days, and one painful reminder. Never trust hotel employees for food recommendations. Locals, especially in large cosmopolitan cities, may not be familiar with their own food scene. But they are trained to answer this question based on various factors such as “other tourists like it”, and will often sound very convincing. After a mediocre first day where I was winging it with an assist from an overzealous employee, the planned second day produced much better results. While this day is not exactly how my day went, its mostly based on it.

Start the day with a Montreal bagel from one of the institutions in Mile End, St-Viateur or Fairmont. Just try to forget everything you know about NYC bagels and keep an open mind. Its really nothing like it, and comparing them is like comparing apples to toasters. They may seem bland and sweet, but you might appreciate the light and airy texture. Try the sesame with cream cheese. Do you know what they call cream cheese in Spain? Philadelphia! Just the kind of unrelated tidbit you’ll only see on EWZ, but very useful in cocktail parties.

The one time I tried both of the institutions, I got luckier with St-Viateur over Fairmont as the former was right out of the oven. But you cant go wrong here. The one big positive about this bagel is that you dont need to spread a pound of cream cheese to be able to taste the cream cheese. Conveniently right next to Fairmont, you can get good coffee at Caffé Grazie-Mille where regulars enjoy telling the owner about the daily pictures they get from ex girlfriends.

The cool thing about these bagels is that you dont need a nap now and you can resume eating within hours. And what’s a better place to do it than Jean Talon Market. This is just a spectacular market, especially in August when its corn season. Peaches and Cream corn will be the sweetest corn you will ever have. But you will encounter all sorts of worldly artisanal items throughout the market. And if you never had ground cherries before, this is a good time to try if in season.

It’s lunch time and I will cheat for once and give you options. Its my blog and I’ll cheat when and how I want to. Option one: The Katz’s of the north, Schwartz. Like bagels, even if you are very familiar with NYC style Pastrami you should try this. First, its an institution. Second, the smoked meat is pretty darn good, especially if you get it on the fatty side. Third, you can sample Poutine here too.

Lunch option two: Portuguese Chicken. Its not as popular as smoked meat among tourists and guide books, but its arguably a better option IMO. If you live in NYC, you can find really good Pastrami and even Montreal smoked meat (Mile End in Brooklyn), but its very hard to find fast casual Portuguese chicken grills like Ma Poule Mouillée for example. The chicken is perfect in every way. Crispy and juicy in all the right places, and brushed with that salty, spicy Peri Peri that even makes the fries taste amazing. You also got Pastel de Nata, and of course Poutine.

Its finally nap time. Do you nap on vacation, or even at home? If yes, I’m jealous. Last time I took a nap was one of the best moments of life. It ranks somewhere between the birth of my second, and the day Mrs Z lost her voice. But first, if you are staying at the old town, or just visiting, pop into Cafeterra for excellent berry topped pastries and solid coffee. Opened fairly recently by a Ukrainian couple.

That leaves 4-5 hours till the highly anticipated dinner at Bouillon Bilk. The food scene here is quite vast and that’s what draws me to this city. Much of the rest is not wildly different than NYC. There are options galore here, but 13 year old Bouillon Bilk is a classic in the making. While prices have increased substantially since my first visit 8 years ago, its still affordable compared to NYC once you factor CAD to USD conversation. The smart, ingredient driven 5 courser is $100 CAD currently. And the a la carte menu isnt terribly expensive. Not a bad day, eh?

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Casa Mateos – Goldilocks Dining in Ronda

Posted on May 24, 2024 by Ziggy

There’s something to be said about Ronda that made her the first place I blogged about after we got back from Andalucia. I already sang her praises in any way I could with my limited vocabulary. Its one of those perfect tourist towns that check all the boxes as far as food, beauty, uniqueness, and size go. Not to mention the Tuscan-like surrounding area.

Normally when tourists arrive at such places, they check into the hotel (perhaps the Parador or Catalonia in this case), wash, relax, and marvel at the mesmerizing views which Ronda offers. Thats what normal people do. Me? I dropped everyone and everything, battled tourist traffic while parking the car, and speed walked the 10 minutes straight to Casa Mateos to reserve for tomorrow. The last order of business in the Ronda plan.

Guiarepsol

Pound for pound Ronda was our top food city, although our two meals there could not have been more different (the other, the legendary and astonishingly cheap El Lechuguita). But I started having my doubts about Casa Mateos when the second local we met told us we absolutely must go to Tragatá, Benito Gómez’s more affordable project after two Michelin Bardal. The saving grace was when the second local, while playing chess with my friend in Olvera, enthusiastically told us about his other favorite, Casa Mateos. Crisis averted. He even helped us with what to order.

In the two weeks of wining and dining all over Andalucia, I’ve had more refined meals. I’ve had meals where the service was more memorable, or the decor was more unique, or where we were more comfortable. But this is the one meal where everything was just right (hence goldilocks). Spot-on flavors and textures that got better and better, a fine Vermouth, wine, and just the proper service that fake laughed at all my jokes. Its a solid contender for the best overall meal of the trip, and I made sure the talented female chef in the kitchen knew that.

As for the food, the mini hamburgers with oxtail didnt look like much but they were bursting with flavor. Goat cheese salad with nuts, fruits, greens and slightly fried cheese, absolutely brilliant for a simple goat cheese salad. Our new Olvera friend best tip.

The silky smooth Partridge Pate was sublime. I was still thinking about it next day on our spectacular Caminito del Rey hike. When the guide asked the group if anyone can recognize a bird she was pointing at, I said “partridge?” The truth is I have no idea what partridge looks like except in Pate form.

Then came of course another round of Huevos Trufados, something I couldnt get enough of on this trip. Eggs, potatoes, jamon, and probably truffle oil, but it works well here. Whats not to like. This might have been the most satisfying egg/potato dish of the trip.

But it was the larger dishes where the brilliance of the chef started to come through. A superb Chicken with Fideos, a strong contender for best of show. And an expertly cooked Lomo de Vaca that had more flavor than a steak specialist we visited in Granada.

When in Andalucia the first rule of thumb is get the Cheesecake and Torrija everywhere you go. Torrija is more like a bread pudding than the common description of French Toast. Here the soft cheesecake with peach was slightly better than the chocolate Torrija, but I would try both. Go!

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