Author Archives: Ziggy

Leitao – Meet NYC’s Best Portuguese

Posted on July 15, 2024 by Ziggy

Its 2024, and you would think by now we should have Portuguese Churrasqueiras spinning Rotisserie chicken in every neighborhood like in cities all over our northern neighbor. Not only we dont have that, but Portuguese food in general just never took off outside of maybe Newark, NJ. Szechuan, Thai, Korean and more took off in a spectacular way. Even Birria, something that no one knew anything about 5 years ago, can now be found in every hood. In other words, the title is not a stretch.

As I already mentioned in the latest Z-List update, Leitao is my favorite discovery of the year so far. And sadly, I dont usually discover them this way. I noticed Leitao while exploring the area, as opposed to the usual way, exploring social media. The first thing I noticed was the most ambitious Portuguese menu I’ve seen outside of Portugal, by quite a margin.

Leitao opened during the pandemic by a chef/owner from Braga. And my guess is that they opted to skip the mandatory payment to the social media mafia, opting for the good ol’ word of mouth instead. It probably took some time, but by the look of things, it paid off. In both my visits so far including at off hours, the place was mobbed, and many seem to be repeaters. We repeated two weeks after the first visit. Something as rare as summer Olympics.

The closest I got to Braga was the stunning Bom Jesus. Equally as spectacular, and maybe even as spiritual to some, is that Leitao menu which reads like the Best of Portugal. It even includes the namesake, an entire Suckling Pig meal for only $400. From my experience the Portuguese do it better than the Spaniards. After trying much of the menu, some winners emerged, and zero duds. Big menus can mean big problems, plenty of thrills, or both. Much depends on the head chef ability to handle it. So far so good…

Porco Preto – If I have to pick one unsung hero that is not getting the proper credit here. Well marbled Iberico Ribs cooked with wine and topped with a toasted garlic and chili mix. Easily falls off the bone and supremely flavorful. An absolute must.

Camarao ao Alho – Beautiful plump shrimp on top of a thick(er) Bourbon, Garlic, Lobster sauce. Comes with a nice surprise, a basket of fresh Baguettes from Orwasher bakery.

Shishito Peppers – Heaps of smoked paprika and chili, sitting on a thin, almost hidden layer of yoghurt. They provide spice levels on the menu, an this is listed as a 5. While not too spicy by any stretch, its spicy enough to affect other dishes.

Robalo – Another must that we had to have on both visits so far is this butterflied Seabass. Big flavors from the spinach sauce, EVOO, and smoked paprika rub on top. Reminded me of the famous fish at Contramar in Mexico City rather than anything we had in Portugal.

Piri Piri Chicken – Not the most tender chicken in town, but tender enough, flavor packed, and probably the most popular dish here.

Salad de Polvo (top)- You know it will be good just by the look and initial touch. The classic mammoth Portuguese no frills but plenty of thrills octopus. Outside of maybe Newark, not so easy to find in the Metrolopitan area. One of two solid Polvos on the menu.

Francesinha – If you never had a Francesinha you are in for a treat. Not quite Porto-esque, but not bad at all. An elaborate sandwich of Fillet Mignon, chorizo and salami covered with melted mozzarella and beer sauce. I shared it with three others, and still was able to taste plenty. Not sure if you can get it topped with egg as you can get in Porto.

Polvo – Unlike the salad, the “Polvo” is sliced and comes with fried potatoes and chorizo. Something I’d order again, even though I’m not sure I prefer over the Polvo salad.

Pasteis de Nata – I’m not even sure what other desserts they offer after seeing these babies being paraded all over the place. They look a little burnt but they dont taste like it. Flaky and fantastic.

Drinks are solid as well. Good Beer menu, and Portuguese inspired cocktails like Porto Tonico.

Leitao
547 Hudson St (West Village)
Recommended Dishes: All of the above especially the Porco Preto, Robalo and any of the Octopus

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Quebec City – The Good, the Great, and the Ugly

Posted on July 10, 2024 by Ziggy
Duck Ham at Buvette Scott

After spending weeks trying to understand Quebec City’s cuisine, you’d think after spending some time in the city, the answer would be clear. Strawberries, cheese, Poutine, Montreal Smoked Meat? When you start mentioning items from other cities, maybe the list isnt that long to begin with, or cloudy at best. It seems that most items listed are of the traditional variety, and are offered in very few places. La Buche, one of those “Sugar Shacks” is one of those, but it was consistently mobbed during our stay.

Quebec City is not known for anything specific that makes people travel over 500 miles as we just did. But we did find a seemingly up and coming food scene led by a plethora of ingredient driven, farm to tables that work with whatever is in season. So you may find asparagus, morels, strawberries, etc following you from menu to menu. And things get increasingly more interesting once you leave the old town…

The Good

Buvette Scott – An intimate, mostly delicious delight with the kind of service that feels like hanging out with old friends. A special of lightly fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with mascarpone and smoked trout. The signature duck ham is like eating duck butter. Mezzelune pasta stuffed with ricotta and topped with lobster, scrumptious and pleasing to the eye. Morels stuffed with chicken wing meat with aromatic veal and wine broth, and last asparagus of the season was the best of show.

Chez Boulay-bistro boréal – A classic in the old town. A comfortable room with a working A/C turned out to be a surprise luxury in QC. Lunch specials come with soup (excellent leek and potato on this day) or salad (nice seed action). Cavatelli with broccoli and local cheese was light and perfectly executed. Lean, flaky beef cheeks with a complimentary ratatouille is a signature here and I can see why. After the meal, exit through the other end via the hotel (that’s also where the bathrooms are) and check out the Bouley sweets store. Talk about eye popping stuff.

Le Clocher Penché – Choosing between an uncomfortably warm room and a room with no ambiance was not a good start. The appetizers made up for it more than the mains. Scallops with morels, easily top dish. The sauce is the reason to order the terrific bread. Shell pasta with oyster mushrooms and Pork chop were serviceable.

Chez Mag on Île d’Orléans – If there’s one tip I can give you besides booking the one “great” is circle the entire Île d’Orléans for strawberries, picturesque homes and lobster rolls. These rolls wont win any awards, but eating them with a side of smoked meat poutine in that picnic area is hard to beat. Standing on line and listening to the conversations around you is part of the experience.

Chez Temporel – Quebece City takes their brunches very seriously. The Croque Monsieur may look like something I would make, but did not lack flavor. “Brunch Plate” featuring the Frittata of the day and other goodies did not disappoint.

Boulangerie artisanale Epi’Fanny – Close to a religious experience for croissant lovers. Jambon sandwiches, not quite Le Petite Vendome level, but will make you at least reminisce.

Épicerie J.A. Moisan – The one store you should check out. All sorts of international items displayed in a smart way. We sampled some cheese and ended up with a creamy La Bete a Seguin to enjoy with a baguette.

The Great

Melba – Our top meal in Quebec City and it wasnt even close. Opened last year in the up and coming Saint-Sauveur neighborhood by a mega talented team of cooks. Thankfully the ties to the popular Battuto don’t include reservation difficulties. One of the joys of reserving in Montreal and QC for a New Yorker is that I dont have to spend hours finding a table.

Hors d’oeuvre as the name suggests are snacks here, so I recommend at least three for two. You can even let the waiter pick as we did. Just make sure to get the “Bikini Sandwiches”. Best Grilled cheese sandwich you will ever have, with zucchini and olives and more zucchini slices on top. You may also enjoy the Barbajuans, like skinny fritters stuffed with lamb and spices with homemade babaganoush as a dip, or Deviled eggs with lobster.

Mains arent too shabby either. A delicate lobster poached Halibut with the softest carrots and lobster bisque. As good as that was, it was bested by Guineafowl with potatoes, chard and a killer combination of sauces. The good selection of wine by the glass and the addictive buttery buns sealed it. Flawless to say the least. All considering good value as well.

The Ugly

Au Petit Coin Breton – Uninspiring pricy crepes with egg, ham and cheese. Nothing like a classic Breton Galette. The crepes at Baguette & Chocolat looked more like it. Much of the old town spots are for tourists.

The Prices – I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a city as expensive as NYC outside of the US. Even Montreal seems cheap in comparison. The high tourist to local ration in QC has something to do with it.

The Tipping – Quebec City’s food scene is having a moment, and so is its tipping culture looks like. I’ve been to Canada many times, but I dont recall ever feeling the need to tip like in NYC. With every machine starting at either 15% or 18% and finishing at 25% even for ice cream, tipping less than 20% felt odd.

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Garum 2.1 {Cordoba} – Bistronomics 101

Posted on July 2, 2024 by Ziggy

When you follow a dud with a triumph the next night, it feels particularly gratifying. Two duds in a row on vacation is hard to stomach, like watching a US presidential debate these days. Even an average meal after a dud feels incomplete. You need an epic to compensate, and that’s what we got at Garum 2.1, along with one of those rare breed waiters.

Talking about presidential debates, just like Bidenomics, Bistronomics is all about empowering from within. In Andalucia it means taking traditional dishes like Salmorejo, Rabo de toro to the next level. There’s a menu display outside of Garum (or was it inside) that upon closer inspection is actually a trophy display. A list of Garum 2.1 Tapas including traditional that received awards. As a tourist, you appreciate places that take tradition and culture seriously. You feel that throughout the the south of Spain especially thanks to places like Garum 2.1.

I chose Garum over the now closed Paco Morales bar. After taking a close look at the latter I was just not feeling it. One reason I chose Garum was the numerous mentions of one particular waiter which we happen to get as well. In Malaga we encountered our favorite overall staff of the trip, but this may be the most brilliant waiter. Humble, super polite, accommodating, and really just another level of service. Truly a rare breed.

As tourists we are hardly Salmorejo (sort of a cold tomato soup) experts, but this was pretty darn good. As with most Salmorejos we had, the flavor is fairly strong (a good thing), and overpowering most of the “toppings” (still a good thing). So they look and feel more or less like beauty contests if anything. But the flavors were prevalent with this one.

If you never had a proper Spanish Tortilla this is a good place to try it. Just the right texture. Octopus with fried pig ears over creamy potato purée was the star of show. The creamy potato was an unexpected Andalucian specialty we encountered throughout the region. The Rabo de Toro (oxtail) was something we couldnt get enough during this trip, and this award winning version might have been the best one.

A new dish on the menu was Artichoke with seafood and a superb seafood bisque I could drink like a smoothie. A rule of thumb in Andalucia is Torrija (like a bread pudding) and/or cheesecake for dessert wherever available. Here you get another great Torrija and a fine cheese mousse with fruits. Washing it all down with another excellent Verdejo. Go!

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An Update to the Update

Posted on June 27, 2024 by Ziggy

Two days after I updated the Z-List, of course Khe-Yo closes. Just two days shy of its 11th bday. One of the only if not the only Laos restaurants in NYC. Although its been a staple on the list for a while, I haven’t been for dinner since the pandemic. Our last meal was lunch a few years back. I get the sense that rising costs was a big factor. Running a restaurant in NYC especially in that part of the city is as tough as it ever been, and prices reflect. Speaking of pricy, Khe-Yo is replaced by the excellent Raoul’s on the list.

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Malaga (and Area) Random

Posted on June 25, 2024 by Ziggy

I’m entitled to one lazy post per quarter, where I just show you some shaky hand pictures and call it a day. Hey, I dont make the rules. But I might as well take this opportunity to inform you that Malaga is stunning. We expected an average Spanish metropolitan with the usual array of historic sites. But instead we got a picturesque historic center that made us cancel all the historic sites we planned.

Winding, narrow streets full of monuments and striking architecture. Its a giant maze of cuteness (as much as I dislike using the word). Whenever we tried to see other areas like SoHo (dont get me started again), Malaga Park and port area, we were drawn back to the historic area like a magnet. Make sure to see the eye popping Mercado Central de Atarazanas as well. Earlier in the morning preferably as it can get crowded during lunch time.

Colomares Castle nearby is good for what it is. A good way to spend an hour or so for selfies watching people doing selfies. Its a unique little place that can be combined with Mijas. Or skip both if you are pressed for time and spend more time in Malaga. The one thing I wouldnt skip however is Caminito del Rey. One of the most spectacular, terrifying but very doable hikes you’ll ever encounter. More on that on another post.

Highly recommend the H10 Croma hotel. Best H10 so far that ticks all the boxes. I already mentioned the terrific La Cosmopolita, one of three Dani Carnero establishments, with the head chef being the former owner of Da Andrea in NYC. Dont have any other food recommendations, but the food scene seems promising. Add Malaga to the mental bucket list.

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Z-List Update

Posted on June 22, 2024 by Ziggy

Still trying to keep the list at 30. 4 in, 4 out this time. I tried to include the excellent Ulivo and a few others but I got too many such places especially Italian. Leitao is the most exciting new find this year, but the rest are not too shabby, and not exactly new discoveries.

Out

Danji – Closed for too long due to fire. Not sure when and if it will reopen
Cull and Pistol – “So crowded no one goes there anymore” – Chelsea Market in a nutshell today
Somtum Der – Nothing wrong with SD. Just freshening up the list with new(er) Thai
Jun-Men Ramen – No longer open for lunch on weekdays so havent been in a while.

In

Song e Napule
Leitao
Thai Diner
Claro

The complete list

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Four Solid Options in Granada

Posted on June 17, 2024 by Ziggy

I was warned that Granada isnt particularly exciting when it comes to food. So I took it as a challenge. Whether I succeeded or not, it’s debatable. After our first night, a major dud well outside the tourist route, it looked like a fail. But things got surprisingly better in the tourist filled areas. The glaring fail was not so much the dud, but not coming up with a slam dunk as every other city in Andalucía accomplished, including tiny Jaen and Ronda. So more of a testament to the other meals. But these four should still entertain your taste buds plenty.

La Botillería

A long day in the Alhambra requires a serviceable meal on a pleasant shaded sidewalk. This was more than serviceable. Good egg dishes like the one with mushrooms and potato, or eggs with fava beans and Jamon. A more elaborate Flamenquín than usual (we are not fans overall but you need to try it somewhere). The creamy risotto is a signature here and I can see why, though we were more impressed by the free paella we got with the excellent drinks.

Bar Los Diamantes

Granada is a good place to wing it, and places like Bar Los Diamantes makes it easy to do. Its a local institution that got pretty touristy the last few years. But more importantly its a respectable fast casual fried seafood specialist. A big plus is that its open early in case you want to give your tired tourist body a break one day and skip another late meal. The light and fresh fried seafood mix didnt disappoint. But add the fine Galician octopus and Gambas al Ajillo to the mix to complete this one. Come earlier to avoid the line, even though it moves fast. Communal tables add to the joy.

El Trillo

If you’ve been following me for more than 5 minutes you know that I never recommend places strictly for views, and this post is no exception. But a trip to Granada feels incomplete without a meal at a “Carmen” house overlooking Alhambra. At El Trillo, you have that, along with the option of a cozy garden over the sunnier terrace. And the food is not too shabby.

Tuna, Cadiz style, stewed with onions and potatoes was better than a similar dish we had at a more renowned place. Try some of the rice dishes, like the risotto with wild boar and mushroom, or the sensational squid ink rice with chunks of octopus hiding inside. Grilled Turbot, not quite Getaria style (if you know, you know) is expertly cooked. The only thing that didnt impress us was dessert, so hopefully you will have better luck.

Oliver

A Bourdain approved legend in tourist central that’s surprisingly feels very local. Started as a small bar before becoming a full blown dining destination, all by the same Oliver family. Start like a local with a top grade Jamon. Tomato with burrata and pesto, simple and yet very satisfying. Succulent shrimp with garlic, and even better grilled squid. People flock here for the Paellas, one of the specialties. Finish with the superb cheesecake.


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Omakase Ichi – Staten Island’s First Omakase Dazzles

Posted on June 12, 2024 by Ziggy

Solid Ramen – check (Ohkami Ramen). Thai – check (Chang Noi Thai). Filipino – check (Phil-Am Kusina). Chinese – work in progress. Omakase – finally! Not that I’ve been holding my breath. But I had to do a triple take when I noticed Ichi on an awkward corner of Amboy while standing on a red light. Omakase is the last thing I expected to see there, though there’s no corner on this island where one would expect it. Refreshing to say the least, especially considering just about every opening lately is Turkish. This island needs Turkish like I need a stone in my shoe.

I’ve never been this excited about eating on the island. Come to think of it, I’ve never really been excited, period. Not to take away anything from many of the places we enjoy like the above mentioned and all the wonderful Sri Lankan. Its just that after 25 years of living here, we’ve been programmed to curb our enthusiasm. But this is Omakase!

Jimmy Wong, the owner, was one of three capable hands behind the counter. He first tested the waters of Long Island before opening his second location on Staten Island three months ago. I guess he figured Manhattan needs another Omakase like we need shingles (last one, I promise). Whether it will work here, I’m very curious to find out. There’s practically zero marketing with Ichi. An ambitious and expensive project to rely on red lights and word of mouth, but I truly hope it works.

You got 10 counter seats, three time slots (4, 6, 8), and ample parking about a block away. A fun, energetic hostess will loosen you up if needed. As with many of the high end Japanese in NYC, fish arrives daily from Japan. I believe the price was $115 p/p for 16 courses. In Staten Island its a special occasion type. In Manhattan, its Wednesday.

Omakase literally means “I leave the details up to you”, but you do get a sense of the kind of details to expect. Some crafty appetizers followed by a bunch of premium grade fish. But there were some surprises. Like the best Miso soup you will ever have that comes with mushrooms and a succulent scallop. Or the monkfish liver that comes with a syringe. And there was a jewelry box containing a truffle infused tuna tartare crispy roll on top of popcorn.

The “main” fish courses were the good, the great, and the dud. The lone dud was a mushy shrimp. Unless I’m on the coast of Sicily or some parts of Puglia munching on red shrimp, I’m not a fan of raw shrimp to begin with. The rest of the items especially the Uni, Scallop, Tuna Belly, King Salmon were superb or close.

As one would expect from a pricy Omakase, there were plenty of expensive ingredients like truffles, caviar, uni, but still letting the fish shine. The Sake was as exceptional as it gets from someone who doesnt drink Sake often. And the entire experience was memorable. Welcome to the neighborhood Ichi. Even though I cant afford you more than once or twice a year.

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Seville’s Feria is Bucket List Worthy

Posted on June 8, 2024 by Ziggy

So glad I didnt listen to the naysayers. Skip it, too crowded, it attracts like a bazillion thousand people, horse poop everywhere, you wont be able to get reservations. The last one almost made me reconsider and change plans. While I obviously cant compare this week to any other time, other than assume there are less people, the crowds for this New Yorker were not nearly as bad. Here’s everything you need to know about the Feria. Well, almost everything.

First, add it to the mental bucket list. A year ago I never even heard of this. But I feel like everyone should experience it at least once. Simply put, its one of the coolest things we’ve ever seen. Its Easter in New Orleans on crack. A week of celebrations, colors, horses, and a whole lot of beautiful people. Hence, we felt like we belonged.

The basics. Its a full week, normally in April (could be May in 2025). Google for the exact dates. Its held in an area well outside the city center so you can control how much Feria you want to have. At the Feria its essentially a huge scene, blocks and blocks of people celebrating inside their private “Casetas”, striped tents, where they drink and dance for much of the afternoon and night. Not to mention the parade of horses and carriages that brings the participants. And with everyone dressed in flamenco attire you essentially get the world’s largest free fashion show.

Do Plaza de España, preferably on Sunday afternoon. Even if you dont set foot at the Feria, just being in Seville that week is pretty cool. With so many well dressed participants flocking to Plaza de España, especially on the weekend after the fair start, its like being in a movie set

As for how to get there. Buses frequently run just outside Prado de San Sebastián and back. I believe there are other bus options but this is the most convenient in the center as of this writing. Its not free, but quite cheap at around a one euro p/p

Dont go in the morning. In Spain the later the better. In the early morning you’ll see Feria participants arriving back from a night full of partying. There’s not a whole lot going on there prior to noon, except cleanup.

There are public Casetas. But they are, well, public, so not nearly as attractive as the private ones. But you at least you can get a drink, and maybe some atmosphere. Try Rebujito, the official drink of the fair invented in 1985. You pay for a small pitcher.

As fun as it is you may suffer from sensory overload after a couple of hours. Go at around 5-6, before dinner. But you’ll see much of the city transform and people dressed up everywhere. One of many reasons to visit Andalucía.

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Breakfast by Salt’s Cure – Clinton St for Locals

Posted on June 5, 2024 by Ziggy

I dont believe that a PhD in Mathematics is enough to figure out the exact amount of syrup required on any given pancakes. How often do we put too little, too much, way too little, way too much, especially if its something like Trader’s Joe’s frozen blueberry pancakes. And then there’s the butter. How much is enough. Its 2024, and I have plenty of life challenges on the plate.

And what kind of Syrup anyway. My Aunt Jemima daughters would rebel when we served anything else. For years we would put both Aunt Jemima and Maple syrup on the table. Until they both moved out, and we gradually got rid of AJ. But turns out, they eventually move back in, so we met them halfway. Yes to Nutella (especially during Matzoh season), but no to Aunt Jemima.

Gothamist

Turns out someone on the west coast figured it all out. In 2010 the first Breakfast by Salt’s Cure opened in LA, and the lines quickly followed. “Breakfast” is the spinoff to Salt’s Cure (sugar?), a popular LA brunch spot hailed for the item that was essentially spun off, the Oatmeal Griddle Cake. Chris Phelps, the brain behind this has been perfecting these “pancakes” since age two.

As you can see, these pancakes wont win any beauty awards. Maybe miss congeniality. But they are as good as any pancakes you’ll ever have. And they certainly dont need syrup. In fact its a “no syrup for you” policy in all four locations (two in LA, two in NYC). Phelp’s Oatmeal mix, available for purchase, includes the perfect amount of cinnamon molasses. Not too sweet at all.

I’ve been passing through the lines at the West Village location for many months now. Coming at 9 am on a Sunday meant a 10-15 min wait. By 10 am it was more like 30 mins. Once inside you order and pay at the counter, and wait for them at your table. You have the option of various flavors like banana and blueberry. I was partial to the Banana with nuts, while the rest of the family preferred the original.

The combos add eggs and sausages to the mix, but even those items are not your typical diner variety. The eggs whether soft scrambled runny, sunny or over, are perfect. With regular pancakes and a dollop of syrup, eggs usually need to be completely separated. The sausages are more like thin eastern European cutlets. Not a bad thing. I went for the pork, but there’s also chicken and chickpeas (like a falafel cutlet I suppose). The saltiness of the sausages compensate for the lack on the eggs.

While tourists, rightfully so, wait for the pancakes at Clinton St Bakery, locals these days go to Salt’s Cure. While the pancakes at CSB are indeed good, I think much of the flavor comes from their warm Maple Butter, and the pancakes arent really as unique as Salt’s Cure. According to the hard working EWZ historians this is my first (and probably last) Breakfast post. Which means its an obvious Go!

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