Resistance is futile. If you look at my countless of posts on Italy, you’ll see that I’ve been resisting the Amalfi Coast for over 15 years. But just like everyone else, I eventually caved in. Family pressure and social media won, and the end result was actually great. I wonder though if this was all a mistake and visiting the area decades ago would have been the right move. More pleasant and a whole lot cheaper. But you can probably say the same about Tuscany, Venice, Sicily, Florence, etc etc.
Overtourism in Amalfi Coast is no joke. And it’s about to get worse with the release of “Positano” starring Matthew McConaughey and Zoe Saldaña sometime next year. It was actually filmed while we were there, mostly in Praiano, causing all kinds of havoc. But even without the movie, post covid revenge travel is alive and well.
With all that said, the Amalfi Coast still has its appeal, and not all hope is lost. Allow uncle Ziggy mitigate some of the pain.
Temper expectations
First things first. There’s a good chance that when you visit Positano, Amalfi, or Capri during the day, you’ll get Disney vibes you havent experiences in Italy before. Instead of the magical place you’ve seen on Tiktok, you are left channeling your inner Japanese train pusher. Unless you are actually staying in one of these towns, you’ll have a hard time avoiding the herds. Even in the shoulder seasons you need to know what to expect.
Stay in Praiano
Not that I stayed anywhere else to compare. Staying in Positano certainly has its advantages, and Sorrento is a good transport hub. But after visiting the most popular villages, we were very happy to return to Praiano every day. Its smack in the middle of the coast highlights, about 10-15 minutes from Positano, and 20 from Amalfi town. A sleepy village of around 2000 residents, with surprisingly excellent dining (more on that later, but if you cant wait, check out my report on Hungry Onion). Shopkeepers and employees here just seem happier and less stressed. And its a good starting point for the Path of the Gods hike.
The biggest issue is getting to other villages, even the close ones. There’s no ferry connection. The buses are not reliable and sometimes dont even stop. And taxis can be expensive. But since its not called Postiano, you’ll save on accommodations and meals. Take a look at Villa Il Frantoio / Lilmar. The views and breakfast alone worth considerations.
Mix in some Experiences
My task was to entertain a larger than usual group this time, and it didnt take long to realize that simply visiting the towns and all the highlights just wont do in this case. Whether its a cooking class in a farm, a boat tour, the spectacular Path of the Gods hike, or even something you’ve never done, like a photo shoot with Andrea and his red Fiats, its these typical Amalfi Coast experiences you’ll remember most.
Make sure to visit Ravello
Much of the focus in Amalfi Coast is on the more famous places like Positano, but I feel Ravello is its brightest, almost hidden Jewel. Not as easy to reach means you wont find similar hoards like Positano and Amalfi, and there’s just enough to see and do to make you wish you stayed longer. The streets, shops, the two grand villas, and the jaw dropping views from its elevated position, add up to a much more pleasant visit. The views will make you change plans and eat at a tourist trap like Hotel Villa Amore on purpose.
Try to pre-plan your transportation
If you think you can simply catch a taxi whenever, wherever you wish, think again. You may get lucky, but luck will come with an added cost. Desperate times will sometimes call for desperate measures. This is something I wasnt ready for, and we did have a local angel that helped us out during a few emergencies. Dont simply rely on the Sita bus as you’ll be hardly the only one. Look into other shuttles like Amico, and try to connect with a few local taxi drivers. Many of them use Whatsup. Our “Angel” was Lorenzo Mansi, a private driver that can also hook you up with local taxis. Highly recommend him.
Pair the coast with Ischia and/or Naples
Just about all the Americans we met in Amalfi Coast never even heard of Ischia. Compared to Amalfi Coast Ischia will feel like the vacation after vacation. The contrast is striking. And there’s a reason why I chose Procida, Ischia’s little sister island, as the first post. Its like Positano without the penis shaped Limoncello bottles and tourists. And Naples really surprised us with its diverse neighborhoods and monuments. Both compliment Amalfi Coast very well.
Slow down and smell the Lemons
Like, literally. Something tells me Amalfi Coast is like NYC in a sense that you will discover it only after your second or so visit. Staying in Praiano, and experiences like the cooking class I mentioned will certainly help with the FOMO of seeing every famous village and island. Or do what our trusted driver, Lorenzo told me. Stay in Minori, his home town, and check out the slower eastern half of the coast. A village like Cetara seems like another great food village.
Eating With Ziggy 