Posts Tagged With: travel+photography

7 Tips for Lake Maggiore

Posted on November 12, 2024 by Ziggy

As usual I will provide 7 random tips for a destination we enjoyed. Even in pouring rain. I mean, non stop rain throughout our stay from the moment we got there to the moment we left. The forecast literally showed sunshine at the time of our flight back, followed by 10 days of nothing but sun. Like a sick joke. It wasnt so much the rain that bothered us, but the lack of blue skies. Pretty sure they are related! But rain or shine, this was a memorable trip to say the least. The lake offers much more than what day trippers come to see.

Check the calendar

Dont arrive in the middle of November and expect everything to be open. This is a very seasonal destination. The Borromean islands are already closed for the season as of this writing. And even when everything seems open like in mid October, ferries to some destinations like Verbania and Santa Caterina may be limited at best.

Yes, do all three islands

Like many, I contemplated whether all three islands are worth visiting. Isola Bella and the jaw-dropping palace is reason enough to hop on a plane, while the other two are not in the same league. But they still offer plenty of charm, and compliment each other well. Do Isola Bella in the morning, have lunch at the “food island” Isola Superiore, before doing the passeggiata along with the exotic birds on stunning Isola Madre.

Learn to read the ferry schedule

Learning about the various options, private or public ferries, and juggling all that with the destinations requires some advanced planning. If you simply want to do the three islands, the public ferry will suffice, and a hop on hop off day ticket is the best option. But while waiting for the ferry, spend some time getting familiar with the schedule slip. Like if you take the next ferry from X toward Z, make sure that it continues to Z after stopping at Y. Less of an issue in the peak summer months.

Check out the Palace hotels

One of the biggest surprises, if not the biggest in Stresa for us was the stunning hotels along the Lake Maggiore shore. The expansion of the Simplon railway in late 19th century, and into the 20th, connecting Switzerland and Italy, literally put little Stresa village on the map. The expansion resulted in a direct line from Paris to Milan which meant travelers needed a break somewhere, preferably by a lake. The result was luxurious hotels like Regina Palace and Grand Hotel Des Iles Borromee. They are nice to visit, but dont seem shockingly expensive either.

Visit Arona

Had enough of penis shaped Limoncellos staring at you from every corner in Stresa? Head to Arona, a picturesque resort town with a fraction of the foreign tourists of the north. It boasts an elegant old town with all sorts of cute shops, and jaw-dropping monuments like the giant Sancarlone. Good stop on the way to or from Stresa.

Have your Seafood fix at Il Clandestino

You can spend weeks in Piedmont before realizing your love handles got bigger and that you havent seen any seafood on menus. Il Clandestino and its animated chef/owner is almost literally doctor orders. Its not as famous as Il Vicoletto and others in the area, so much more accessible. The bonus is that you dont even need to open the menu which consists entirely of seafood. The owner comes out and asks you what you feel like eating, and the result is glorious. Just make sure that includes the sick Spaghetti with seafood mix. One of the best I ever had.

Stay and eat at Casa Rampolina

No need to stay at Stresa at all as you have a plethora of unique options all over the area. One of them is a hamlet right about Stresa called Campino where you can find a handful of guesthouses including Casa Rampolina. I’m easy to please, but I travel with someone who’s not. A small place of only 5 rooms, but a big heart. From the shower, to the bed, room size, service, and homemade breakfasts, four enthusiastic thumbs up. And due to the weather we didnt even take advantage of their top draw, the magnificent views of Lake Maggiore.

But that’s not all. La Rampolina, their restaurant just happens to be one of the most popular in the entire region with locals. Its so popular that they need a parking attendant to manage the traffic. On our night, a famous three Michelin star chef just happened to celebrate a family function there. Hard to imagine a bigger endorsement. It deserves a dedicated post, so stay tuned.

 

Categories: Italy, Piedmont | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

The Case for La Morra

Posted on October 28, 2024 by Ziggy

I’ve been having an almost unhealthy obsession with this part of Piedmont since we visited it 10 years ago. That’s how long it took to convince Mrs Z to come back to a place not rich with monuments and attractions. The Langhe, and its many striking Belvederes is the main attraction. Though arguably the best food and wine combo in Italy is an attraction in itself, and reason enough to come.

And when you finally pull the trigger, might as well base yourself in La Morra. A tiny hilltop village, surrounded by other tiny hilltop villages in the middle of Barolo wine country. You dont need an entire day to see La Morra, but you’d want to spend some time here exploring the area, starting and ending with Piazza Castello and La Morra Belvedere. We didnt get much blue skies during our recent four days in La Morra in rainy October, but Google has no shortage of sunny images.

La Morra is the perfect base for many reasons. The proximity to Alba (14 km), Barolo village (7 km) and many other interesting villages and towns like Cherasco (known for snails and chocolates), Verduno (home to the Pelaverga grape), and Bra (where the famous Bra sausage is made) is one reason. Even Turin is less than an hour away. The village itself is atmospheric, with just enough shops, restaurants and bars to entertain tourists for a few hours, if not days. The shops here are the tasteful kind, selling local products, not penis shaped Limoncellos.

For such a small village, you have no shortage of food, good food. Osteria More e Macine is very popular with both visitors and locals, and some of the best value we’ve experienced in Italy. Reservations are a must. For a light meal after a big lunch elsewhere (Whether its the great Il Centro in Priocca or La Coccinella), UVE Wine bar will do the trick. But stick to wine here. Not the place to experiment with grape beer.

The Langhe has what many believe to be the highest concentration of great dining in Italy. Notables that are a short drive away: Osteria La Torre (Cherasco), Agnulot (Verduno), Ca ‘del Re (Verduno), L’Osteria del Vignaiolo, Osteria Veglio.

Around La Morra is vineyards galore of course. Some, like the excellent Voerzio Martini, you can just walk to. By appointment only of course. This is not Napa Valley or even Tuscany, where you can show up without reservations. But do make an effort to see the gems outside the area, like Manzone Giovanni, and see Monforte d’Alba while you at it. Stick to small, family producers.

Parking in La Morra is a little tricky. We usually found spots in Piazzale Monera. And if you are a fan of small boutique hotels, look no further than Relais Le Rocche. Ticks all the boxes. Location, views, friendliness, heated pool, comfort, sublime breakfasts, and even dinners from what I heard during breakfast. A ten minute walk to the heart of the village.

Categories: Italy, Piedmont | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Is Napa Valley America’s Biggest Tourist Trap?

Posted on September 26, 2024 by Ziggy

After visiting Napa for the first time in 30 years, I can confidently say… Yes, and No. I can also confidently say, this is the first and last post about Napa on EWZ. This is a big planet, with hopefully more planets to come (I’m really enjoying For All Mankind on Apple). While I have a laundry list of places I want to revisit, Napa Valley is not one of them.

Lovely Mrs Z and I were in our 20’s when we first visited Napa, followed by Las Vegas which we visited often back in the day for some reason. I vividly remember touring the world famous Beringer (as per their website), buying a case of their world famous something (maybe Zinfandel). We hauled the case with us to Vegas, then on a plane, and back home to NYC, only to discover the same wine cheaper in Costco. Thats my only memory (and lesson) from that visit.

Napa was a logical choice this time as part of a long Portland-LA road trip. It seemed like a refreshing change of pace after exploring the Oregon coast. Wine, scenery, that farm to table stuff I kept hearing about. All the things I love about a destination. Hence, the problem.

This is the kind of destination we normally seek. Like the Langhe in Piedmont, Tuscany, Croatia’s Istria, Getaria and Ronda in Spain, just to name a few. Even some of the areas in Virginia near Shenandoah are shockingly striking considering its, well, Virginia. After all these destinations, Napa overall was a letdown, and quite the sticker shock. The Disneyland vibes started to kick in before we even got there.

Considering the top attraction in the valley is a 13th century style structure that resembles and sounds like an Italian castle except it costs $70, is pretty much all you need to know. But in case you need more, there’s also a Gondola ride, a wine train, and a myriad of Instagramble wineries that range from $50 to $200 to visit. With everyone trying to outdo each other, it’s essentially the worlds largest outdoor beauty contest.

While researching Napa you get a sense that paying less than $50 for a tasting is not worth the time, and anything over $50 is not worth the money. I eventually settled on Quixote Winery, Caymus Vineyards, and Francis Ford Coppola Winery. All unique, and attractive in their own way, with Caymus coming out as the group’s favorite experience, albeit at a cost ($50) for a tasting. I recently booked a tasting in Piedmont that includes 5 world class wines including Barolo, accompanies by cured meats and cheese and a property tour for $18 pp. A similar experience in Napa is around $150.

But I would be fine with a few overpriced but picturesque wineries if I could find something else to do and see, and eat some of that famous Farm to Table food I heard about all my life. But turned out every restaurant we visited is geared toward tourists, and the food reflected that. Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch has farm in its name, but the room and food felt more like a glorified Applebee’s. Angele a French Bistro served us the worst Escargot I ever had, among other duds. These are some of the most popular places in the Valley, packed to the brim every night.

But there were a few highlights including in the food department. Gott’s Roadside is the kind of burger chain every state should have. Not only quality gourmet burgers, but really crafty tacos and even salads. Why are they only in the Napa area? Another highlight was hot air ballooning with Sonoma Ballooning. A fantastic experience from start to finish, aided by a hilarious pilot. We still managed to have fun, but the question of the title stands.

Categories: California | Tags: , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Oregon/California Coast Highlights

Posted on September 7, 2024 by Ziggy

This is the coast portion of a recent Portland-Napa-LA road trip. While we’ve done the SF-LA coast multiple times, the northern parts was a first for us. Good seafood, seals, scenic drives, eyepopping sea stacks, and plenty of redwoods. Here are some of the highlights (food included).

Cannon Beach – Our first stop. Pleasant town to walk around with shops and galleries galore. Good Fish and Chips at Ecola Seafood Restaurant. Nice views from Ecola Point Viewpoint in Ecola State Park. The jaw-dropping Haystack Rock is the perfect welcome to Oregon coast.

Tillamook Creamery – Not exactly a secret, and not exactly the best ice cream I ever had, but this is such a neat place. A factory allowing you to see much of the process cost free. A general store where you can stack up on some gourmet(ish) snacks for the drive. And an artisanal ice cream shop that you can enjoy outside or in. A must stop IMO.

Cape Kiwanda Sand Dune – For city slickers like us, walking to the top of the dune and running down like children was quite the experience.

Clearwater Restaurant (Newport) – Probably our best meal on the coast. Surprisingly tasty Asian inspired dishes like Orange Cauliflower and crab and garlic noodles. A dock full of seals in the back is reason enough to come. It was like watching an episode of Planet Earth

Darlingtonia State Natural Site – A small area where you can see carnivorous cobra lilies. This is one of those perfect pit stops on a drive like that. A short walk to see something so unique and different than anything else on the coast. And its free.

Note, I’m listing highlights only, not necessarily the biggest and most popular attractions like Sea Lion Caves, Heceta Head Lighthouse, and others that werent as memorable.

Nosh Eatery (Florence) – Pleasant surprise considering I was aiming for Mari’s Kitchen next door which was closed. Very solid juicy ribs and salmon bowl. I was intrigued by Mari’s Kitchen Romanian leaning menu, but Nosh did the job.

Shore Acres State Park – I almost wrote the gardens at Shore Acres but the entire park is truly stunning. Its a little out of the way but very much worth it. To see the gardens, head to the gift shop.

Endicott Gardens Bed & Breakfast – If I could only give one tip. We’ve come to realize that we are hotel people, but I still like to mix in experiences such as this in between Holiday Inns. Its such a special and unique place. A super friendly couple that used to own a restaurant in Colorado manages this 4(?) room property. The garden alone worth the price of admission. And to top it all, an outstanding three course garden to table Breakfast. Fantastic value.

Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor – One of the more dramatic parts of the Oregon coast. Highlights are Arch Rock State Park, and “Natural Bridges”

SeaQuake Brewing (Crescent City) – Solid pizza and beer. For pizza snubs from NYC this was as good as I was hoping for a place like this. The rest of the menu is promising as well

Trees of Mystery – A Redwoods theme park with a giant Paul Bunyan at the entrance. For Fargo fans, this is your chance!

Simpson-Reed Trailhead (Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park) – The perfect hike (about a mile) after a longish drive, and a good introduction to the Redwoods.

Avenue of the Giants – How often do you get to drive on a 30 mile road surrounded by Redwoods. It runs parallel to the 101 with multiple exit points when you have enough Forest Bathing

Garden at Shore Acres
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Caminito del Rey – The Safest Scariest Hike in the World

Posted on August 30, 2024 by Ziggy

If you are even remotely into hiking, add this to the bucket list. 7.7 km, half of which on an elevated narrow boardwalk secured to the side of a cliff on top of a spectacular gorge. Once nicknamed the most dangerous hike in the world, its not nearly as scary today. After a record 5 people killed in 2000, officials finally decided to do something and took 15 years to build a new path. Imagine graduating with a civil engineering degree and getting hit with this assignment.

Considering the commercial aspect of this attraction and the way its organized, the hike as expected felt completely safe. The spectacular vistas on every turn help forget that a few wooden boards are between you and stuff on the rocks (sorry). The only time you feel like you had enough is during the last 30 minutes. A very boring walk to the bus that didnt seem to end.

Although outside of most tourist radar in Andalucia, you need to reserve this months in advance. Most likely, like us, you’ll reserve a timed walk with a guide (extra) as the DIY tickets are few and sell out quickly. At some point during the tour you may opt out and walk at your own pace. The guide will fill you in with the history and local flora and fauna. At some point our guide pointed to a bird flying above us and asked us what it was, and all I could think was partridge, after the amazing dinner the night before. Partridge was incorrect she said.

The one thing most blogs dont tell you is that it takes 45-60 minutes to get from the parking lot to the starting point, which involves a shuttle and a hike in itself. Thats why the small print will suggest to arrive an hour early. But I dont think they turn anyone away if a little late, due to the difficulties involved to get there. Although the hike is only two hours or so, allow at least half a day for this.

Unless you have an incredible amount of energy, do Caminito del Rey in the morning. 10:30 was ideal for us but I would go even earlier. Allow an hour to get there from Ronda, Malaga or elsewhere. Its a good stop when moving from one base to another. There is some food huts at the end, but I would avoid at least the milkshakes since everyone who had them in our group got sick. Go!

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This is Jaén (and MangasVerdes)

Posted on August 13, 2024 by Ziggy

Sometimes it starts with a photo. I remember late in the planning stages, seeing a photo of the Jaén cathedral from the top of town and before you know it, I’m researching olive oil producers, area castles, and the exact location of that shot. I’ll save you the headache: Mirador “El Balcón del Santo Reino” on Google Maps.

The Mirador and Castillo de Santa Catalina, the 8th century castle that King Ferdinand III of Castile captured in 1246 are reasons enough to make Jaén a worthy stop between Cordoba and Granada. According to legend, after defeating the Nasrid dynasty stronghold, Ferdinand climbed to the castle and drove his sword to the ground. Probably not a good idea, but I’m sure he had more swords. Roughly 250 meters from the castle, that spot is now marked with a cross, overlooking Jaén and the rest of the countryside.

In the few hours of visiting Jaén we saw both a thriving town (before lunch), and a sleepy one (after lunch). The best example of that was right in front of the cathedral. We are well outside the tourist route. Another surprise was a series of murals in the southwest edge of the town. A lot of cats (including real ones) and stairs.

But the largest bonus was discovering a thriving food scene. Jaén, with just about 100,000 population boasts four Michelin star establishments, including the famed Baga. A mini San Sebastian if you will. Being in the middle of perhaps the most important olive oil region in the country may have something to do with it.

I dont recall exactly why I chose MangasVerdes over Baga. Perhaps I wanted something simpler, or Baga’s latest reviews didnt do it for me. I question my decisions more than anyone else. And when we showed up at an empty restaurant at 1:30pm, our reservation time, I questioned some more. I was confused why they were turning people away. But by 2:30 the place was packed to the brim with locals.

A young staff without much English did a masterful job managing the house. I may never understand how they do it with half the staff of American restaurants of the same size. The food was traditional with a fun Asian twist that actually works. More often than not, it doesnt. A top 5 of the trip meal, maybe even top 3. Considering the doozies we had, its saying something.

Expertly prepared Duck confit spring rolls that came Ssam style. Silky smooth, flavor packed Foie Gras. Phenomenal, explosive Chicken Croquetitas that came like a dozen eggs with curry sauce. Probably my favorite dish. Octopus on a bed of potato cream, as good as it was prob my least favorite. More excellence from the Oxtail ravioli. Panna Cotta and choc cake were the exclamation point.

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What To Do And See Around Ronda

Posted on July 20, 2024 by Ziggy

Ronda, smack in the middle of Andalucia isnt getting nearly as much love as the big boys. That’s partly due to its size, and partly for being, well, smack in the middle, away from the big boys. While businesses such as the the nearby wineries would prefer a Rioja type fame, as a tourist I’m not complaining. At the moment I’m researching Napa, our most famous wine country, and the difference is staggering in price, crowds and even beauty.

Simply put, the Serrania de Ronda, the southwest region of the Malaga province is a geographical wonder. It rivals Tuscany as one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever seen, and we were completely unprepared for it. Not that we needed to be more prepared (cleaner underwear?) but it totally caught us by surprise and maybe I would have made an effort to stay longer. Here’s what we did before, during, and after our stay in Ronda.

Reservatauro Ronda – This is a very unique place. A horse and bull farm about 10 km outside of Ronda. A 90 minute tour of the property, and an entertaining lesson of the rich history of Ronda bull fighting and horse breeding. You can upgrade to a light lunch, and meet other travelers in the process. And if you’ll get Desiree(sp?) as your guide you are in for a treat, including a mean Tinto de Verano.

Setenil de las Bodegas – Out of the many white villages in the area and all over Andalucia this is perhaps the most unique. Houses built into the surrounding cliffs. Its quite a sight that’s becoming more and more popular, so better to come early or late in the day to beat the crowds. If you come late, the hilly village may be a bit more challenging but it will be relatively peaceful.

Olvera – Another picturesque village, albeit this one fairly sleepy. There was quite a bit construction during our visit, so hopefully you’ll have better luck, and energy. If you are not “castled out” by this point, you may want to check out Olvera Castle for the castle itself and the splendid views of the church from a distance. And while you at it, check out Bar Pimentel for, you guessed it, Russian food, by a character owner

Caminito del Rey – The safest scariest hike in the world deserves its own post. It an hour out so you can do it as a day trip from Ronda, Malaga, Granada or on your way to one of them as we did. A bucket list item for nature lovers.

Bodegas Ramos-Paul – One of a number of wineries scattered just north of Ronda. This is an absolute stunner, managed by a husband and wife team. Wife’s family is one of the original founders of Cruzcampo, the local beer (pretty much) monopoly. Book a tour of the property, followed by a tasting of their robust, superb reds served with two to three tasty tapas. The wine is aged at least 10 years in the bottle, and costs well under $100 due to, well, not being called Rioja. A fraction of what you’ll pay in Napa for a similar experience.

Other possibilities: Cueva de la Pileta, Zahara de la Sierra, Casares…

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Malaga (and Area) Random

Posted on June 25, 2024 by Ziggy

I’m entitled to one lazy post per quarter, where I just show you some shaky hand pictures and call it a day. Hey, I dont make the rules. But I might as well take this opportunity to inform you that Malaga is stunning. We expected an average Spanish metropolitan with the usual array of historic sites. But instead we got a picturesque historic center that made us cancel all the historic sites we planned.

Winding, narrow streets full of monuments and striking architecture. Its a giant maze of cuteness (as much as I dislike using the word). Whenever we tried to see other areas like SoHo (dont get me started again), Malaga Park and port area, we were drawn back to the historic area like a magnet. Make sure to see the eye popping Mercado Central de Atarazanas as well. Earlier in the morning preferably as it can get crowded during lunch time.

Colomares Castle nearby is good for what it is. A good way to spend an hour or so for selfies watching people doing selfies. Its a unique little place that can be combined with Mijas. Or skip both if you are pressed for time and spend more time in Malaga. The one thing I wouldnt skip however is Caminito del Rey. One of the most spectacular, terrifying but very doable hikes you’ll ever encounter. More on that on another post.

Highly recommend the H10 Croma hotel. Best H10 so far that ticks all the boxes. I already mentioned the terrific La Cosmopolita, one of three Dani Carnero establishments, with the head chef being the former owner of Da Andrea in NYC. Dont have any other food recommendations, but the food scene seems promising. Add Malaga to the mental bucket list.

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Seville’s Feria is Bucket List Worthy

Posted on June 8, 2024 by Ziggy

So glad I didnt listen to the naysayers. Skip it, too crowded, it attracts like a bazillion thousand people, horse poop everywhere, you wont be able to get reservations. The last one almost made me reconsider and change plans. While I obviously cant compare this week to any other time, other than assume there are less people, the crowds for this New Yorker were not nearly as bad. Here’s everything you need to know about the Feria. Well, almost everything.

First, add it to the mental bucket list. A year ago I never even heard of this. But I feel like everyone should experience it at least once. Simply put, its one of the coolest things we’ve ever seen. Its Easter in New Orleans on crack. A week of celebrations, colors, horses, and a whole lot of beautiful people. Hence, we felt like we belonged.

The basics. Its a full week, normally in April (could be May in 2025). Google for the exact dates. Its held in an area well outside the city center so you can control how much Feria you want to have. At the Feria its essentially a huge scene, blocks and blocks of people celebrating inside their private “Casetas”, striped tents, where they drink and dance for much of the afternoon and night. Not to mention the parade of horses and carriages that brings the participants. And with everyone dressed in flamenco attire you essentially get the world’s largest free fashion show.

Do Plaza de España, preferably on Sunday afternoon. Even if you dont set foot at the Feria, just being in Seville that week is pretty cool. With so many well dressed participants flocking to Plaza de España, especially on the weekend after the fair start, its like being in a movie set

As for how to get there. Buses frequently run just outside Prado de San Sebastián and back. I believe there are other bus options but this is the most convenient in the center as of this writing. Its not free, but quite cheap at around a one euro p/p

Dont go in the morning. In Spain the later the better. In the early morning you’ll see Feria participants arriving back from a night full of partying. There’s not a whole lot going on there prior to noon, except cleanup.

There are public Casetas. But they are, well, public, so not nearly as attractive as the private ones. But you at least you can get a drink, and maybe some atmosphere. Try Rebujito, the official drink of the fair invented in 1985. You pay for a small pitcher.

As fun as it is you may suffer from sensory overload after a couple of hours. Go at around 5-6, before dinner. But you’ll see much of the city transform and people dressed up everywhere. One of many reasons to visit Andalucía.

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48 Hours in Cordoba

Posted on May 19, 2024 by Ziggy

It took me roughly 48 seconds to realize that a day trip to Cordoba just wont do. Between the main monuments, patios, the various distinct neighborhoods, and nearby sites, even 48 hours felt like scratching the surface. The 22nd largest city in Spain has more UNESCO sites (4) than any city in the world. Remarkable considering you have cities like Paris and Rome in the mix.

The city is full of layers showcasing its rich Roman, Jewish, and Islamic past. For much of the middle ages, it was one of the most important cities in the world. But even some of the newer parts show plenty of charm. This is not a complete guide, but more or less what we did, arriving from Seville, with Granada next. Car as always, helps.

On the way from Seville you can stop at Castillo Almodovar del Rio, only 30 minutes from Cordoba. This is another Game of Thrones site, one of many in Spain. The castle is part Casterly Rock, but mainly Highgarden, the Tyrell’s house. Just dont make the mistake of coming within an hour before closing. If they show they close at 2:30 PM, it means they lock the gate at 1:30 PM. But even being on top, walking around the castle is pretty cool. Got plenty of nice drone shots.

Check into H10 Palacio Colomera. One of many new H10 properties sweeping the country. Beautiful building overlooking the picturesque Plaza de las Tendillas (busy during the day but quiet at night. Soundproof windows). Other than an unexpected 2am wake up call and some smelly bathroom issues that can probably be sorted out, this was a fine stay.

The surrounding area is a major shopping hub. Parking is advised to be reserved ahead at Parking Calle Sevilla 5. Just Google your drive to the parking garage to know what to expect (easy, but still), and pick up your much deserved snack at La Tranquera Solo Empanadas right near the garage.

I cant think of a better welcome to patio obsessed Cordoba than a visit to Palacio de Viana. A 15th century Palace where the spectacular patios and gardens didnt seem to end (I discovered my limits). 12 distinct gardens that will give you plenty of ideas for your spring planting. The palace was occupied by various families, last one being Marqueses de Viana until 1980, hence the name.

Explore what I call the upper Centro, the area around Jardines de la Merced. The atmospheric squares around Monumento a Manolete, and Cristo de los Faroles, and the stunning facade of Palacio de la Merced, a former convent. Time for a break at La Bendita Locura for Conservas, mini sandwiches and your 15th Tinto de Verano of the trip.

After a power nap, you are ready to be introduced to the old town and the Juderia. You’ll spent some quality time together the next 24 hours. Dinner CAN be at El Rincon De Carmen. While the food didnt exactly rock my world, this is one of the most popular… you guessed it.. patios in the area and my group enjoyed it overall. Try the Huevos Rotos con Jamón. Stronger recommendations coming up.

Start the next day with a morning tour of the Juderia with a Professional Jew (his words), Jorge Gershon of Cordoba Jewish Tours. Jorge is a walking encyclopedia, but also fun and energetic. You’ll get a better understanding of the impact of Maimonides, and the complex and rich history of Jews in Spain. Seeing one of the most important Synagogues in Spain, and Casa de Sefarad which usually comes with a timed surprise are just some of the highlights.

You’ll find beautiful patios all over the city, especially in early May during the festival, but the one area that’s particularly known for them is San Basilio. Even if none of the owners open their doors, its a pleasant neighborhood for a short stroll. But its approaching lunch time and you know who is getting hangry.

Lunch is just across the river since you’ll want to check out the Roman Bridge anyway. Take your time. Bar los Romerillos is open, but the kitchen doesnt open until 1:30. Thats how you know this spot is for locals. If you are early, hang tight and have your 20th Tinto de Verano. Then try the Cogollos Ajillo. If it looks like simple lettuce, it is. But trust me. Also try the Carrillada (pork cheek).

Its almost time for your 3:30 slot at the great Mezquita. This is one of the reasons you are in Cordoba. A Mosque-Cathedral masterpiece, and one of the most unique monuments in Spain. No pictures will properly prepare you, at least as far as the depth goes. Dont miss the Mihrab, which usually faces Mecca these days, but older mosques including this one, not so much. More of historical differences in opinion.

You need a good rest prior to this dinner. The brilliant Garum 2.1 will delight all your senses, with the aid of a rare breed waiter (assuming he’ll be there). Dont skip the Octopus with fried pig ears over creamy potato purée. And try some of the award winning tapas like the Salmorejo, and oxtail. Advanced reservations of course required.

Time to say goodbye, and hello to Granada or your next destination. If Granada than a slight detour to Jaén is worthwhile. The EVOO capital of Spain is quite the looker and well outside the tourist route. You got a castle towering right above it offering spectacular views. But the biggest case for Jaén is that it evolved into a food destination. Check out MangasVerdes. More on both Jaén and MangasVerdes to come.

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