Posts Tagged With: Travel

Blanca – When in Paris…

Posted on October 24, 2023 by Ziggy

You eat Argentinian of course. When I was researching Paris food, one thing became fairly clear. Its not your father’s Paris. Much has changed since we’ve been here last (15-20 years). The restaurants back then are now referred to as “traditional”. And the city is now flooded with all sorts of ethnic eats, Asian/French fusion, Neo-bistros, and Asian/French Neo-bistros. This made researching a lot more fun and challenging at the same time. Do I want Tagine, duck confit, or Argentinian steak on Wednesday?

Live music on Wednesdays made that decision easier. Still, tiny Blanca in food heaven 11th arrondissement was a risky bet after a less than desirable meat streak (I’m looking at you Paul Bert). But this turned out to be the most memorable meal in a week full of them. The ultra talented guitarist/singer helped. Not only a beautiful voice, but he can play other instruments with his mouth. It was like a three person band for the price of one.

We were the only tourists in the house, confirmed by our bubbly Mexican waitress. It is time to change that ;). Although Owner/chef Violetta doesnt speak my English, we shared a few laughs. She has friends in high places, including baker Thierry Breton (no, the other one) and his outstanding bread that is part of your Blanca experience. One of the better breads of the trip. In NYC this kind of quality now comes with a price tag.

Started with perfectly blistered Shishito peppers with a light creamy guac that worked very well together. No matter how much Shishito we eat, we rarely get tired of them. Cheese empanadas that seemed on every table, were well seasoned and tasted much better than they looked.

The Pièce de Résistance and one of the reasons for the visit was the Argentinian Entrecôte. Unlike at Paul Bert the night before, cooked to med-rare perfection, flavor packed, and cheaper too. It came naked with salt, black peppers and homemade vinegary chimichurri on the side. I hesitated to put anything on it as it was that good, but pouring some of that chimichurri and black pepper turned out to be net positive.

Another highlight was the “chicken mistake”. We actually ordered the monkfish instead, but after a quick inspection we were happy to keep the super moist, expertly cooked mistake. It came with morels and mashed squash. Washed it all down with a potent Argentinian Cabernet. And finished with a very satisfying, light, flan with caramel. Flawless!

Categories: France | Tags: , , , , , | 3 Comments

Portland – The Food Report

Posted on September 29, 2023 by Ziggy

August 2024 Update

Another trip in the books. A shot one this time to start a road trip to LA. Other than Napa which we didnt care for, we had a fantastic time. Sorbu, yet again was our first stop with a car full of luggage (its 10 mins from the airport). Its the perfect welcome to Portland kind of place. Get the eggplant sandwich, and any of the rotating pastas. But you really cant go wrong here. And now that I tried half of the menu at Scotch Lodge, I’m even more convinced. The Brie (again), Arancini, Semifredo were the standouts this time. Still one of the coolest bars in America.

Best “discovery” this time was Matt’s BBQ. Not exactly a local secret. In fact we showed up before noon on a Sunday and there was already an outdoor party and a line (moves quick). Fantastic Texas style BBQ rivals some of the best we’ve had like Hometown in NYC. Brisket, ribs, Jalapeño cheddar sausage, pulled pork, pork belly burnt ends (wow), all spot on flavors and no dryness in sight.

Enjoyed Phuket Cafe overall, but probably not as much as I hoped. I think I prefer sister Eem (below). With that said, I would come back for the fish salad and Panang curry with beef. The signature Paella was a little off. Way too much Socarrat and flavors just didn’t pop. Sides, smaller dishes were just ok, and I didnt care for their Sticky rice/mango interpretation. Pure Thai Cookhouse spoiled us forever.

September 2023 Post

Portland Oregon doesnt have a particular cuisine that I know. But for a city the population size of Staten Island, NY it has probably the best concentration of great eats per capita in the US. With an amazing array of restaurants and over 500 distinct food carts, trucks, and even double decker buses dispersed all over the city, you are within minutes away from great food no matter where you are. The challenges as a tourist is to sort all of this out and come up with a balanced plan. Heck, I had to quit online chess for a week for this. I think we did alright….

Lets start with the carts…

Sorbu

Went here straight after landing (after checking out McMenamins Kennedy School hotel – what a neat place). Sorbu is Tuscan inspired sandwiches recommended to me by a friend who lives in Livorno (Tuscany) years ago. A very nice combination of flavors, textures and quality homemade bread. Supremely juicy and crispy Porchetta. Eggplant with Torta di Ceci (Tuscan coast chickpea pancake) and Mozzarella was probably even better. These two are the menu staples while the rest rotate. If I have to pick one cart of the bunch, this is it. But the rest are not too shabby.

Bing Mi

Sexy name, sassy snack. I believe its the only pod (a cluster of carts) in the more upscale Northwest District. The specialty is Jianbing (“bing”), a Chinese crepe that was part of my Brooklyn food tours (RIP). I opted for the Chinese sausage and extra egg and this was a typical yet solid version. Got the crisp, flavor and spice level just right.

Bake on the Run

Indo-Guyanese cart in the new Lil’ America pod, though the cart has been around for a while and seemingly popular. We sampled a few items but settled on a lovely, thick Dahl, served like soup. Very rich, deep flavors that stay with you for a while. Really one of the better Dahls I’ve ever had.

Baon Kainan

Some of these carts like this Filipino cart serve different menus on different days and times just like restaurants. Baon Kainan brunch on Sundays may include Talongsilog, fried eggplant with garlic rice, veggies and perfectly cooked sunny side eggs. Or the similar Tosilog with pork belly. Just good ol’ solid comfort food. Even better is the sweet Ube (purple yam) rice cake. I’d come back just for this.

Tov Coffee & Tea

I believe that every city should have an Egyptian caffe inside a double decker bus. Tov is not a gimmick for tourists as the product quality is very important to the owner. The specialty here is a cold brew they make with cardamom and the various drinks they make with it like the “Nectar of the gods” with caramel. But just sitting inside the insta-bus is pretty cool.

The restaurants…

Petite Provence

This became our reliable morning delight as it was right near our apartment. Whether for pastries, eggy breakfasts or waterfall picnic supplies, namely Baguette with butter and jams.

Scotch Lodge

A four year old basement speakeasy/whisky bar, voted one of the best bars in the US by Esquire. Probably the most interesting drink menu I’ve ever seen with great inventive food. Although favorite drink turned out to be gin based, “Remain in Light”

Highlights were the house specialty Fried Brie, like mozzarella sticks on crack. Dill fries (dehydrated pickle seasoning) are like the perfect McDonald’s fries. A silky smooth Albacore crudo was probably our favorite overall. Skip the pastas and get more fries.

Kann

This elevated Haitian is one of the hottest tables in the country as of this writing. Making reservations was like reserving Taylor Swift tix, though if you time it right and got mad “refresh” skills, it’s doable. The national dish, twice cooked pork app is a must. The tomato, stone fruit and berry salad will make you rethink fruit salads.

Mixed feelings on the duck. Flavor and texture was there, and the bed of cane syrup was particularly addictive, but the leg and breast had widely different temps. Enjoyed it nonetheless, though it didn’t quite match the brilliance of the chicken. If you ever had good jerk in the Caribbean or elsewhere, this will be a revelation. I give this one three Habaneros. Speaking of which, just about every dish has it.

Eem

As a New Yorker, without knowing the full history, it seems like Akkapong “Earl” Ninsom is thew new Andy Ricker. Just about every Thai I considered is fully or partially owned by Earl. I strongly considered the latest venture Phuket Cafe, but opted to play it safe here. It’s essentially a marriage between Thai and Texas BBQ with “vacation drinks” to help with the consummation. Start with the awesome Pina Colada.

The white curry with brisket is one of their best sellers and I can see why. Beautiful, milky, well balanced curry with that smoky brisket. Same with the chopped brisket fried rice with plenty of socarrat action. Smoked pork Krapao is another winner. A sloppy fried egg but superb tasting pork belly. Very solid sweet and sour (and hot) boneless fried chicken thighs. Nothing wrong with it but not as distinct as the others.

Cabezon

Portland excels in so many things that you might overlook some important ones, like seafood. Since 2009 Cabezon established itself as a premier seafood specialist. Comfortable room with ample space between tables. Feels almost like old school in a new school setting. Other than perhaps the meh Blinis, everything was fantastic.

The basil and phyllo wrapped shrimp was superb. Beautiful Asian flavors from the Thai basil, glass noodles and curry sauce. The mussels were even better. While not the best mussels I ever had, one of the better mussel dishes, thanks to the fries soaking up the great sauce, beans, and bits of chorizo. It’s good size too, more of an entree.

The house specialty Cioppino was fresh tasting and just about flawless. The grilled Tomba tuna was nicely cooked but since it wasn’t seasoned much it needs to be eaten quickly before it dried. And this is not the time to overlook dessert. Get the Creme brûlée and a peach cake when in season and call me in the morning. Not too early.

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The Case for Portland

Posted on September 21, 2023 by Ziggy
Mt Hood

Yes, Portland Oregon is weird. Even for a New Yorker. Some of the quirkiness you see in East Village or Washington Square Park like ask a puppet for advice is just another corner in Portland. Same for how people generally look and dress. All you need is a 5 minute walk down Alberta Arts District to see that you are not in Kansas anymore. They have an annual nude bike race for Christ’s sake. Even the birds are weird, and possibly stoned. You’d think when a car is approaching they’d scoot faster out of the way, but they take their time and sometimes cause mini traffic jams.

For a place with the population size of Staten Island, the food scene is just ridiculous. They dont just have food trucks or carts, they got islands of them called pods. Like outdoor food courts. Around 500 food carts dispersed all over the city, and none are the same. Add a tremendous restaurant scene to the mix and you got a foodie paradise. I may have lost some sleep trying to sort out the food schedule. Being close to food rich Alberta complicated matters more. More on the food later.

Japanese Gardens

But that’s not nearly all. Portland is not the most attractive city I’ve seen. But it’s parks and gardens like the Japanese garden are world class. You can do some serious forest bathing here between Mt Tabor, the Grotto (62 acres sanctuary), and the mother of all forests, Forest Park where you can hike to the picture perfect Pittock Mansion. Portland’s collection of trees are impressive to say the least.

Other than the parks, Portland’s charm is in it’s neighborhoods. The Northwest District, especially the area around 23rd Ave is fun to explore, day or night. You’ll get a different feel once you cross the river to the lively Mississippi Ave, Williams, and the vibrant Alberta. Staying in one of those areas instead of the downtown area where most tourists (and many homeless) stay is the conventional wisdom these days.

Multnomah

But to me the biggest draw other than the food scene, is the proximity to various natural wonders. Half an hour away is Columbia River Gorge and its very accessible world class waterfalls. If you wont get Iceland vibes at Latourell Falls with its basalt, you will surely get it at Multnomah. You dont need to walk much from the parking lot for the classic shot. After chasing waterfalls, the town of Hood River conveniently awaits with its breweries and art galleries. You can either continue to Mt Hood, or come back from the Washington side of the river for another picturesque drive.

70 miles south you have Silver Falls State Park and its stunning South Fall. Dont even bother looking at pictures of this one, as its something you need to see and experience. A dramatic ending (or beginning) to a beautiful 3-5 mile hike. Then after a coffee stop in Salem, proceed to Willamette Valley, Oregon’s Wine Country. From little Iceland to little Tuscany, though with more than 500 wineries perhaps not that little. Consider Trisaetum winery, for the wine and the above average Charcuterie board.

Portland’s problems are in full display. But so is everything else that’s not going away, and that you wont see mentioned in the media. Cant wait to come back to see the rest.

Trisaetum Winery
Mt Tabor
Eem
Vista House
The Grotto
The Grotto
Sorbu
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5 Lisbon Gems

Posted on September 4, 2023 by Ziggy

Portugal surprised us with its quality and depth in the food department. By the last day, we had an inside joke when we talked about how consistently well we ate on this trip. We would take turns saying “well, there was that pizza place”, referring to a Porto meal that became the lone clear failure. A small price to pay when you wing it after lunch at the brilliant Taberna Dos Mercadores, but it stuck out like a sort thumb by the end.

The Lisbon meals were particularly noteworthy as we hit one jackpot after another. Just when you thought it could not possibly get better, it did again and again. Even some celebrity sightings to boot. Talking about celebrities, last week I met Phil Rosenthal outside the Hudson theater. We both ended up sitting fairly close to each other, seeing Alex Edelman’s last show, Just For US (I actually purchased the last two tickets of the last show. You would think there would be prizes for such things). We had a very quick chat about one of his Lisbon picks below. Of course I didnt tell him about the one I cancelled.

Tapisco

Alma’s affordable little sister is not exactly a Lisbon secret, but just outside tourist central. While we were there, service was a little tied up, entertaining a mega celebrity two tables over. For privacy reasons I won’t reveal the name, but it rhymes with Emeril Shmegasse. Stellar tapas and larger rice plates like the superb Octopus rice (above). La bomba, a riff on the Barcelona snack is the bomb. Jamon and tomato toast, so simple yet so delicious. A picture perfect, traditional Bacalhau à brás (bottom). But I cant imagine one can go wrong with anything here.

Jesus é Goês 

Following the footsteps of Phil Rosenthal, and the main topic of conversation on my encounter with Phil the other day. Phenomenal Goan cooking, and surprisingly a good amount of pleasant heat throughout. The Portuguese usually arent keen on spicy. The specialty of the house is the holy burgers that come with poached egg on a spoon (above). Like little umami bombs. And the curries, like Goatling Xacuti and Chicken Cafreal feature just the kind of complexity I look for.

O Velho Eurico

Reserving tables in Portugal can be trickier than Paris or NYC. O Velho Eurico is exhibit Z, for the young and talented Zé Paulo Rocha. You essentially need to start reserving in Porto and Lisbon three to five months prior. Eurico has a north Brooklyn, sort of hipster feel to it. But with such elevated cooking for a third of the price, where do I sign. Delicate cold Bacalhau salad. Plump and succulent Piri piri shrimp. Nice use of fruits and sauces throughout, like the strips of melt in your mouth peppery pork belly with orange. Excellent fried rabbit with a creamy dill sauce (my fave, above). Just some of the awesomeness you may find here.

Ramiro

I’m not exactly listing state secrets here. We liked Ramiro so much when we first “discovered” it 12 years ago, that I would be risking sleeping in the shower (because we didnt have a couch) if I didnt book it again. Not much has changed as expected from the old timer. Outstanding prawns in all shapes and sizes, especially when they come sizzling in ultra garlicky oil. The tiger prawns in particular are outrageous (above). And this is a good opportunity to lose your Percebes virginity.

Churrasqueira do Marquês

Maybe time to counter the above with a state secret. Although walking distance to tourist central Belem, very few tourists make it to the Ajuda neighborhood. Grilled chicken is not only the name of the game, but some claim best in Lisbon. By the look of the house full of happy locals, and the bird grilled to absolute perfection, who are we to argue. And being away from the center in this case, means you getting quite a bang for the buck.

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A Day in the Alentejo

Posted on August 24, 2023 by Ziggy

“This is a Cork tree…. Any questions?” Two minutes into our tour with David of cork producer Cortiçarte, was all we needed to get a sense on how the rest is gonna go. One of the many personalities worth seeking out in the beautiful Alentejo countryside. The large city folk look at the people of Alentejo like mainland Italians look at Sicilians. It’s where time is time, and taking it slow and living in the moment is misinterpreted as backward and lazy. You see some evidence of that from former professional soccer players now driving Ubers to hospitality workers

David then proceeded to give us a fascinating and entertaining tour of the small family owned factory. The dude turns out is a natural. Portugal produces 60% of the worlds cork and much of it is done in this region. I mean how often do you think about where this stuff comes from. You usually begin by focusing entirely on the wine, and end with seeing unicorns. And like in a museum, at Cortiçarte you end up eventually in the gift shop. Except that its a good one this time. A shop selling all sorts of items made of, you guessed it, aluminum. J/k, its more cork.

Much of the cork doesnt have to travel far. While the Douro Valley got the pizzazz and fame, Alentejo is actually Portugal’s largest wine country. It’s wineries cover a third of the country in fact. Most of the reds are robust blends, while the whites are well balanced and quite aromatic. “Fruity or no fruity” became the question of the day by restaurant owners in the region. Even when we opted for “no fruity”, they were plenty fruity, and surprisingly delicious. I say surprisingly since living in the states you dont hear much about this region. It’s the Virginia of Europe wine regions, at least as far as my knowledge goes.

Herdade do Esperao is not quite as striking as some of the wineries we’ve visited in Europe, but it is one of the more important, and boasts one heck of a restaurant. You can book a tour and tasting as we did, followed by lunch. Its quite the production, and it was interesting to see the process, and cellars (not pictured). The tasting especially was a revelation as some of the reds in particular were quite potent.

I dont believe you can go wrong choosing between the Michelin or the Tapas Bar here. Since it was a Sunday, our only option was the Tapas Bar and that was a nice treat. I rarely say it but… vegetables! Yay! Normally veggies in Portugal are just boring sides, but here they shine. Asparagus, beet root (the star of show), and the cabbage salad that came with the pork were particularly noteworthy. A superb lamb came with scalloped potatoes with a surprise inside… more lamb. Perhaps even more memorable was the enthusiastic young waiter that talked about every ingredient like a couple talking about their first newborn.

Alentejo’s boasts some pretty impressive hilltop villages. Marvao, Castelo de Vide, Elvas and Monsaraz just to name a few, with Monsaraz perhaps the most dramatic of the bunch. I can see Marvao fans shaking their heads profusely. No argument there as they all offer something for everyone. Perhaps it was the little cemetery in Monsaraz that did it for me. Or the super friendly volunteer at the tourist office. Or the views of the lakes and Spain from its walls. With very few tourists going this far, not many residents have much reason to stay. Still, empty or not, Monsaraz might be Portugal’s best hidden secret

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Origens – Another Reason to Visit Alcobaca

Posted on August 20, 2023 by Ziggy

Most people come to Alcobaca simply for the purpose of seeing the imposing monastery. That’s if they come at all. The majority skip altogether in favor of the arguably grander Batalha, 20 km north. Imagine building something this special, only to be outstaged by jaw dropping gothicness a mule ride away. But Alcobaca monastery is no slouch. It reminds me of a falafel place in Haifa, Israel that many believe is the best in the country. It says so right on the sign – “Best Falafel in the Country”. But right across the street there’s another falafel place, and it’s sign says “Best in the Neighborhood”.

Sometimes you need to look at the bigger picture. With Portugal’s popularity these days, Batalha requires careful planning to avoid the tour buses. And there’s not a whole lot to do in “downtown Batalha”. You come, get inspired, and leave quicker than you arrived. Alcobaca on the other hand also boasts an attractive town, with a couple of famous “residents”, Ines and Pedro. You may want to learn about their tragic story before your visit to make it more interesting. You think you have marriage issues?

In comparison to the rest of the country, Alcobaca, both the monastery and town is shockingly empty. Portugal, while very popular these days as a destination, is still at the early to middle innings of the “age of discovery” (see what I did there?). Fascinating places like Monsaraz, Castelo de Davide, Alcobaca, and even Tomar are not usually on the tourist routes like Obidos, Algarve and the rest of them.

The monastery and the town should be enough reason. But if you need more, there’s yet another Origens here, and its another good one. As I said before, it requires just the kind of “chutzpah” and/or pride to call your place as such. I laid out the reasoning for the theory after another splendid meal at another, totally unrelated Origens in Evora.

We knew this is going to be one of those meals when we were greeted with port and tonic, which essentially established our drinking foundation for the rest of the trip. A lavish, local Flor do Valle cow’s milk cheese, and a pleasantly creamy vegetable soup got the juices going. Octopus with rice, nicely enhanced by fresh herbs was one of the better renditions of the trip.

Just close enough to Nazaré and the sea meant a fresh whole Dourade which became the group fave. But what truly stood apart for me was a Mirandesa steak, a local popular breed from the north. Beautiful, tender, clean, and incredibly flavorful. Just comes with salt on the side, and cooked to med-rare perfection. Ended with a traditional meringue cake

From the warm service, the flavors, and even the murals, this was another top meal of the trip nominee. Origens is a good reason to stick around for a few more hours in beautiful Alcobaca. The town compact size compliments the massiveness of the monastery nicely. It’s even, dare I say, romantic. You hear that? That’s Mrs Z’s morning laugh.

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This is Aveiro

Posted on August 11, 2023 by Ziggy

How often do we judge destinations based on expectations, rather than face value. Imagine seeing Pena Palace in Sintra, or the Eiffel Tower without knowing anything about them. Sort of just bumping into them by accident. You’ll be anxious to tell the world about your findings rather than figure out whether expectations were met. Sometimes it works the other way. High expectations can convince you to appreciate a place much more than you would otherwise. Sort of “the emperor has no clothes” effect.

The more you read about Aveiro, the more you start questioning whether this is a worthy destination. You get the idea that its not genuine, too touristy, there’s not a whole lot to do, and my favorite, its nothing like Venice. Aveiro’ small canal system, and colorful boats gave it the nickname the Venice of the South. Just like with the Florence of the south (Lecce), people often make the mistake of comparing them to their “look-alikes”, and setting themselves up for disappointment.

But on face value, Aveiro is unlike anything I’ve seen. Even if you take out the canals and boats, its a stunner. The cobblestone streets with the maritime motifs, picturesque squares, and flashy architecture give the town a certain atmosphere. Its clean and very pleasant to walk around, even outside of the main zone. We didnt find it overrun with tourists, but much like Porto, we saw a lot of construction.

But the boats, or Moliceiros, and canals definitely give it an added flair. You can take a boat ride (too hot on our visit). Or simply walk around to admire the boats, and search for the naughtiest paintings. Every boat has some sort of an illustration in the front, some quite strange, and potentially offensive. The history is not exactly clear. It started as politically motivated, and somehow transformed into this over time. Its weird and hilarious at the same time. Just zoom in on some of the pictures. You can find more examples here and here, and I just had to steal one from the excellent Julie Dawn Fox.

Julie Dawn Fox

Like many towns in Portugal, the town has its own convent treat, Ovos Moles (“soft eggs”). We picked up some from a shop called 1882. There’s even a bakery with a workshop, teaching tourists how to make them. Honestly, after eating convent desserts all over Portugal, we were not particularly wowed by these. Ultra sweet and eggy. Sugar, eggs and sometimes almonds dominate the convent dessert scene all over the country. But you have to admire how old traditions get preserved as such.

Another big reason to come here is the nearby port/beach town of Costa Nova, and its colorful houses. You can make this stop as big as you want. Take advantage of the many seafood restaurants (Marisqueiras), go to the beach, or just take a stroll on the promenade along the striped fishermen houses. My unofficial explanation is that the fishermen had a drinking problem, and after numerous misunderstandings, some turned lethal involving spouses, they decided to color their houses to ensure they find the right one at the end of along day.

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O Buraquinho da Se – A Little Hole in Porto

Posted on August 8, 2023 by Ziggy

When you walk past O Buraquinho da Se, you start questioning this whole reliance on Google thing. Google clearly says its here, but it’s clearly not. Is it closed? Did it move? Do I need to learn how to fold a map again? Yikes! Hold on, wait a minute, its only 7 pm, and restaurants here dont open for dinner until 7:30-8. We are clearly not in Kansas anymore, not even NYC. So coming earlier to confirm reservations means the place may not even be open yet. But that doesnt answer the question of where the heck is this place.

There’s no sign and no door that I could see. There are some empty tables on the alley steps, but they may belong to the bar in the corner. When I came back a few minutes later, an older gentleman with a giant open book and a cigarette occupied one of those tables. After delivering the sad “we are full” news to some patrons, he confirmed mine, with almost perfect English. Apparently Jacque recently retired from finance to do this, along with his wife in the kitchen.

And I suppose there is a door after all. More like half a door that leads to a hers and hers closet. Once inside, you find yourself in this tiny half basement, with maybe 5 tables. O Buraquinho da Se in fact translates to “The little hole”. But you can use all your favorite travel cliches here.. “A hole in the wall”, “hidden gem”, “like eating at someone’s house”, “mom and pop”, “old school”, just about all of them. The only thing left is to see if their octopus lives up to the hype.

It exceeded it. By like, a mile. 12 years ago, we fell in love with Portuguese octopus 500 meters away at another hole, A Grade. Today A Grade is a magnet for foreign, especially Asian tourists. But O Buraquinho da Se’s version was just magnificent. Two mammoth tentacles, not particularly dressed, a good thing when the product is this good. You can tell its the angels singing variety as soon as you touch it with the fork. Perhaps best Octopus I ever had.

Normal people, while vacationing, like to eat things that they, well, like. And avoid ordering things they dont like. But since Bacalhau is so deeply rooted in local culture, how can we come here without trying it again. Since I already mentioned Bacalhau in other Portugal posts, it’s safe to say that we got converted at some point. It was here, in this church. Unlike prior tries, this fish, covered with cornbread was much more balanced.

There was also a supremely flavorful, hearty shrimp Acorda, an excellent meat and cheese board, and a portobello topped with grilled goat cheese that had our taste buds dancing. Ended with a very satisfying homemade chocolate mousse and an almond tart. Washed it all down with a local fruity white Altano, by one of the Douro pioneers.

One of those flawless meals, aided by Jacque’s attention and English command. We live in a country dominated by a service industry, but we travel to experience this kind of service. O Buraquinho da Se is only open four days a week. Three of those for lunch as well. You wont find many or any mentions of it by influencers or Facebook like Chama and many others. Go! You can reserve this via Facebook.

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Yet Another 14 Day Portugal Itinerary

Posted on July 31, 2023 by Ziggy

The great www is flooded with Portugal itineraries of all types and sizes. So why should you trust this one? You shouldnt. I think the vast majority of out there are fairly useless to most people, and mine is no exception. I myself dont usually like to look at other people’s itineraries, but do so sometimes at the very beginning stages just to get a general idea.

But since we are asked by many for our itineraries, Mrs Z started posting them on her local Facebook group, so this is mostly just a copy and paste. This itinerary takes into account our pace, love of food (duh!), culture, photography (friends more than us), and variety. A nice mix of cities, villages, cuisine types, and even variety in accommodations. It also means renting a car for part of the trip. In other words, a whole bunch of useless stuff. But maybe you’ll get a yummy meal or three out of this. Every mention of a specific restaurant, hotel, or place, means I recommend. If there’s a dinner or lunch I omitted, it means it was a fail. Here we go…

Day 1 – Fly to Porto

Check into Hotel Catalonia

Explore central area:  Rua de Santa Catarina, Mercado do Bolhão, City Hall, McDonald’s (no joke), São Bento train Station, and other sites you want to see nearby.

Francesinha lunch at Cafe Santiago. Not sure if its the best anymore, but its sort of a local legend and close to the hotel. Another good option is Brasão Coliseu across the street but I havent tried it. 

Rest

Dinner at O Buraquinho da Sé. Can book via Facebook, try well in advance. Octopus of your dreams.

Day 2 – Porto

Jewish Heritage Tour with Portoalities, or another tour with this agency. You dont need to be Jewish to appreciate the Jewish tour.

Lunch at Taberna dos Mercadores. Tough booking, only by phone, or join the line. Lunch or dinner obviously doesnt matter.

Explore Ribeira area. 

São Francisco church and/or Bolsa Palace.

If you still have time explore Vila Nova de Gaia.

Day 3 –  Bom Jesus / Guimaraes

Uber to Bom Jesus do Monte (or train via Braga)

Uber or train to Guimaraes.

Lunch at Restaurante Virtudes. For this day I just wanted something in the main square and this did the trick.

Uber or train to Porto.   

Dinner at “O Grade”. Booked via google maps. Family place, super popular with tourists. A marginal recco here, not an absolute must. I liked it more 12 years ago.

 

Day 4 – Douro Valley

Book a day with Igor of Porto Tours and Transfers. Highlights:

Winery (Pacheca), Lunch (O Maleiro)

Town of Amarante.

Dinner, a snack double header: Gazela – the famous hot dog, Congo – Bifana.

Day 5 – To Tomar

Pick up car at Flashrent, a tiny, and I mean tiny, cheap, dependable, friendly private rental owned by two women.

Stop at Aveiro / Costa Nova

A Suckling pig lunch at Rui dos Leitoes 

Visit Convent de Cristo in Tomar

Check into Casa dos Ofícios Hotel in Tomar

Medieval theme dinner at Taverna Antiqua 

Day 6 – Full day in the Central

Batalha

Alcobaça Monastery

Lunch at Origens in Alcobaça (reserve via email)

Explore Alcobaça

Obidos

Chicken dinner at Casa dos frangos in Tomar

Day 7 – Drive to Evora

Castelo de Vide – See ancient Jewish synagogue and sites

Lunch at Aqui ao lado

Visit Marvão. Do not leave without cookies from Marvao Com Gosto

Continue toward Evora

Check into Convento do Espinheiro

Dinner at Taberna Típica Quarta Feira – family style fixed menu

Day 8 – Evora

Explore Evora: University, Cathedral, Bone church, Roman temple…

Afternoon at the hotel pool

Dinner at Origens 

Day 9 – Alentejo country side

Corticarte – cork manufature and tour with David (or the next day if timing doesnt allow).

Visit Herdade do Esporão winery – Book tour and lunch at the tapas bar or restaurant (Michelin) via Email.  

Monsaraz

Day 10 – Moving to Sintra

Sanctuary of Christ the King overlooking Lisbon

Grilled seafood lunch at A rampa do Pragal

Queluz National Palace

Check into Quinta das Pedras

Rest, pool, Dinner at the Quinta by the host, book in advance

Day 11 – Sintra 

Pena Palace – Get earliest tix

Moorish castle

Lunch at Tascantiga

Relax at the Quinta

Cascais

Seafood Dinner at Mar do Inferno

Day 12 – Sintra / Lisbon

Quinta da Regaleira (Even though I’m listing it here, best time to do this is arrive between 11-1)

Lunch at Casa des Minas (more for the place than food)

Drive to Lisbon, Drop car 

Check into BessaHotel Liberdade

Dinner at Cervejaria Ramiro

Day 13 – Lisbon

Explore Lisbon center (Baixa, Chiado, etc)

Lunch at Tapisco

Explore Príncipe Real, Bairro Alto

Dinner at Jesus e Goes (Goan)

Day 14 – Lisbon

Alfama

Chicken lunch at Churrasqueira do Morques (get by Uber)

Belem

Dinner at O Velho Eurico – Tough booking but doable if you book well in advance online.

Fly home next day from Lisbon

Categories: Portugal | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

10 Tips for Lisbon

Posted on July 22, 2023 by Ziggy

Wear comfortable shoes.

Ok, this is a joke. I may have touched on this in the past, but I still see this advice for Lisbon and just about every non-beach destination in the world. Is there a human left that doesnt already know this by now? Women think about this as soon as they book flights. If you give this advice to Mrs Z, she will give you the smackdown and show you all the blisters she got just today. And dont get me started on “Dont forget your camera”. Here are 10 real tips that you may or may not know by now

Dont sweat about location

People often ask for the best location on social media sites, and I’m still not sure what is the right answer. Its really not much different than any other capital. The sites and attractions are fairly spread out, and you will have cons and pros wit just about every area. This time we opted to stay at BessaHotel Liberdade and were very happy with the location, especially with the proximity to shopping. Its still good value for us Americans, and its got to be one of the best showers in Europe. With the built in bathroom speakers it felt like you are in an Irene Cara music video. What a feeling!

Reserve the most popular yesterday

Unlike say Paris, NYC, and much of the world, restaurant reservations are available months in advance in Portugal. For haute joints like Alma, its understandable that it could be a tough table to get, but even simpler non Michelin spots like O Velho Eurico, can be booked solid months out. Its a pain in the ass but worth seeking them out. Same advice for Porto.

Try Goan

Lisbon has a very large Bengali and Indian population. It was interesting to walk some of the streets like Rua do Benformoso and see nothing but Bengali and Indian joints all over. But since Goa, the Western Indian state, was once a Portuguese colony, there’s also that connection and history. Its not just a history listen, but the food is pretty darn good. Once you have eaten your way through all the seafood delights that Portugal has to offer, this is more than a nice change of pace. You got the great Jesus é Goês, Zuari, and many more options all over the city.

Researching Pasteis is mostly a waste of time

Years ago it was more or less clear that if you wanted the best Pasteis you had to go to the source, Pasteis de Belem. But these days, with so many bakeries and chains opening throughout the years, the competition increased and opinions vary. Many swear by Manteigaria, and many still stand firmly behind the royalty of Belem. But to me the most important ingredient is freshness, and that’s a little difficult to predict. For us, the most consistently fresh Pasteis came from Fábrica da Nata, in various Lisbon and Sintra locations. Regardless, if you are a food enthusiast, a visit to Pasteis de Belem is still a must.

Skip the flashy Sardines and do the Conserveira

Good sardines are expensive and hard to find in the US. In Porto and Lisbon you’ll find some very curious gimmicky instagramable sardine shops that may even feature a musician playing a musical instrument in a Phantom of the Opera type setting. I cant say to the quality of their cans, as I rather put my money on an old school, no frills, 4th generation family business like Conserveira de Lisboa. Its a place you go to buy canned seafood, not to browse around. And there’s literally nothing to see anyway except for your sardine consultant/salesmen. It’s the Di Palo’s of Lisbon. Lines can be long but its worth it

Spend time outside the center

The biggest change in Portugal today vs 10 years ago is that it became much more touristy. Its a very hot, trendy destination at the moment on top of the post pandemic revenge travel thats still ongoing. Dont be surprised to be surrounded by visitors all over the center. Its important then to spend some time outside the tourist zones, in areas like Príncipe Real, Campo de Ourique, or Ajuda. You’ll even see a big change in food prices. Bonus tip: Try getting to Churrasqueira do Marquês for grilled chicken, before walking to Belem. You’ll most likely be the only tourist there.

The hills are alive with the sound of pain

You read about them, you look at pictures, and you still arrive without care and proper plan to see every neighborhood and every view point in one day. Dont underestimate the hills, and some of the Miradouros (sponsored by Lisbon’s coalition of knee replacement specialists). They may wear you out by day one. Some require more effort than others. And if I have to choose just one Miradouro, it would be Miradouro de Santa Luzia in Alfama. And remember of course to wear comfortable shoes!

Uber is your friend, not the tram

Prices certainty increased over the years, but Uber is still quite cheap, especially when compared to a large USA city. They are quick, reliable, and sometimes you get a chance to meet a local. Its not so much a way to replace a tram, which is more of an attraction. But one look at the miserable faces of tram 28 riders stuck in traffic in Alfama is all you need. It’s also relatively expensive, crowded, and requires careful planning to avoid the queues, and pick pocketers..

You dont have to wait for Santa Justa Lift

I dont know who needs to hear this, but its still amazing to see long lines to Santa Justa, even though the walk up is 5 minutes. Take Rua do Carmo down, make a right, another right, and look for the stairs up to Carmo Convent. Unless you are already up, coming from Bairro Alto, just head to Carmo. If you must take the lift, the line down is much shorter.

Go on a Bordalo II hunting

This is a supremely talented “trash artist”. He converts junk into beautiful animal sculptures. You can find his work throughout the city, but some are a bit more difficult to get to. As of this writing to my knowledge you got the The Cat, “Sapo de Lixo”, Monkey, Panda, the new birds on the corner of Rua do Carmo and de Santa Justa by the lift, Raposa, and the Raccoon. If you can find them all, you’ll get a free annual subscription to EWZ.

Enjoy Lisboa!

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