Posts Tagged With: Travel

Eating in Jerusalem – Hummus envy

      Yerushalaim Shel Zahav has yielded some golden results during our Israel culinary adventure.  Who said in Israel you can only eat well in Tel Aviv, Moshav Livnim and gas stations outside of Rosh Pina?  Although we only scratched the surface in Jerusalem, that was one heck of a tasty surface.

Our guest editor the Hummus Whisperer, who although likes Ikea food and knows only what he reads in the NY Post (old ‘top secret’ joke) knows a thing or 2 about the art of Hummus and should probably skip this post.  Just like eating lobster after Maine, hummus in NYC may never taste the same.  And we couldnt even get to some of the best Jerusalem has to offer like Abu Shukri and Hummus Lina in the old city.  Here are our the highlights from Jerusalem…

Lebanese Restaurant in Abu Ghosh.  Friday night in Jerusalem can be a tough draw for foodies so we opted to leave the city for the nearby arab village of Abu Ghosh.  This was one of the those meals.  80 shekels (about $20) per person got us more food than we knew what to do with.  Before I even adjusted my chair I was looking at a huge array of salads including various eggplant salads and some of the most delicious hummus we ever had.  There were 3 types of hummus — with meat, with oil and plain.  The meat hummus plate in particular was a memorable one.  Outstanding stuff all around!  The only caveat was that the meat dishes came way too soon but I noticed similar behaviour in other establishments.  The meats were nice chunks of various chicken, liver and lamb kabobs but the highlights were clearly the amazing salads here.  Highly recommend the Lebanese.

Abu Ghosh is known for its Hummus and terrific food but not for creativity as far as restaurant naming is concerned.   The “Lebanese Restaurant” is not a description.  Thats the name.  Another one is simply called Abu Ghosh, another one is you guessed it… Elvis Diner.  And then there’s the famous Abu Shukri, except that there are 2 other famous Abu Shukris in Jerusalem.  Still, I am told this is the Hummus capital of the world.  Dont believe me?  Ask Rihanna

  

Adom – I was somewhat apprehensive about eating here I must admit since this is the type of place we dont have a shortage of in NYC.  You may even call this ‘American’ with this kind of an eclectic menu.  But what we got was another terrific meal.

Started with some nice and salty veal carpaccio with a hint of truffle oil.  The “Fresh Pasta” was perfectly al dented Ballerina shaped with zucchini, sun-dried tomatoes white wine.  I noticed more of that fresh Ballerina pasta on the streets of the German colony while walking with my new friend and Jerusalem resident Shaul.  I really enjoy well made pastas and this was done right.

The highly recommended Adom burger was perfectly cooked, fairly large and juicy.  Comes with nicely seasoned potatoes.  Succulent sautéed shrimp comes sizzling with the pan with chickpeas, other veggies and oil.  The seafood risotto was creamy and a big hit as well with the group but a bit too heavy for me.  Adom in this blogger’s opinion would do very well in New York City.  Love all the veggies that were served with some dishes.  Loved the freshness!  Loved Adom!!

The only minor issue was finding Adom.  If you look at its location in Google maps its not exactly there. Its about where I marked it in the map below, about a block closer to the old city on Jaffa street.  Look for an entrance to a narrow alley (see picture)

Rachmo – This is authentic home cooking cafeteria style dining at its best.  From the cafeteria trays, the window where you place your order, and the looks that you get while having your feet on the chair you saving for your spouse so no one would snatch it.  This is a popular little spot and I can see why.  Some claim this is the best Hummus in the city.  Creamy, grainy and very pleasant tasting Hummus with beans, definitely a”best hummus” of the trip contender.  Another specialty is the Kibbeh, comes either fried or like doughy dumplings stuffed with meat, onions and spices in tomato based soup.  A tremendous lunch.  If my school cafeteria served food like this, I would still be in school.  Rachmo or Rahmo is a MUST!

Problem is its right near foodie heaven Mahane Yehuda.  At least the original Rachmo as they have another location.  You want to come at least a little hungry to Mahane Yehuda and Rachmo makes it very difficult.

Other eats:  Lunch in Crown Plaza in Ein Bokek (Dead Sea)  – surprisingly a fine buffet.  Nice Sabich-like sandwich at a cafe in Israel musuem.  Beef kabobs from Eretz Bereishit – a biblical experience that involves midlife crisis camels and biblical characters with Australian accents.

Mahane Yehuda – Like a kid in a candy store,  Like Mike Tyson in an Orecchiette factory (orecchiette is baby ear shaped pasta – get it?).  Amazing melt in your mouth fresh Halva (Halva king has 2 locations).  Hairy fresh Baklava (Kataifi?), not so hairy Baklava (I prefer no hair :roll:), Israeli seeds, figs, dates, fresh pasta and much much more.  I will let the pictures do the talking…

Categories: Israel | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 8 Comments

Israel – Eating in the North

Our private tour guide Yaakov “50 shades of Yaakov” Shabat didnt see it coming.  He thought it was just another tour group.  Instead of making a right in the colorful Akko shuk and head toward the next attraction and the legendary Uri Buri, I threatened mutiny if we dont make a left first for a pre-dinner snack at a local hummus joint.  Yaakov was about to find out that we were not there just to see what the Crusaders built, but also where the crusaders bought Hummus, and how did they eat it?  With a spoon or pita?  Did they use plastic or silver spoons? And if they used pitas, did they scoop it with circular, straight or snake motion (this is for you Moti).  Anyway, we started our guided tour with perhaps the best hummus we ever had.   Here’s more on that and the rest of what we ate in the north.  Most of these werent random stops btw.  I’ve done my fair share of research before the trip and the results were outstanding.

Acco – Suhila/Abu Suhil.  This was some “sick” hummus.  It made you sick just thinking about all the store bought Sabra hummus waiting for you back home.  We were told by more than one source to skip the legendary lines at Sa’id and head here instead.  Suhila is located just otside the shuk.  when coming in from the main gate its on the right side of the square before the shuk.  Just ask anyone for directions if needed

The hummus, silky smooth, creamy, fresh, served warm with boiled chickpeas.  A really excellent, ‘no frills’ simple hummus!  In a business dominated by men, 2 sisters working hard to maintain their father’s legacy and they know what they are doing.

Akko is a city known for its Hummus.  You have the aforementioned Sai’d located in the middle of the shuk.  You may see long lines and/or tour guides pointing to it like a tourist attraction and those in the know will tell you that you may find more great Hummus in any hole in the wall there

Akko – Uri Buri.  This was one of those meals, at one of the most famous seafood eateries in in the country.  Uri Yirmias the owner is a food celebrity in Israel.  Had a little chat with the legend who was very enthusiastic about his new venture, the recently opened Efendi hotel.  He also owns an ice cream parlor next door, written a cook book, partner in another super popular eatery Helena in Caesarea, and he’s also an emergency call up for ZZ Top.  I think!  My hebrew is somewhere between rusty to non-existant.

Started with an array of starters (we are 7 adults btw).  The standout and perhaps the most interesting item of the meal was the Sashimi salmon with wasabi sorbet, contrasting flavors that went nicely together.  For main the Sea wolf and the Mediterranean shrimp were the standouts and the one memorable dud was surprisingly the St Peter’s fish appetizer.  They allow half portions which I suggest taking advantage of as it allows you to sample more.  The half portions are also big enough and do look like normal size dishes.

 

   Haifa-Hazan Shawarma.  This is one of the more popular  Shawarma spots in Haifa.  But the word is that its only popular with its fans and there are plenty of haters.  People either love it or hate it.  I presume they mean the veal shawarma which was showcased when we stormed in.  I think I was the only one who loved it in our group however.  Yes, its a bit stronger and chewier texture than your average shawarma but to me it was glorious chunks of nicely seasoned veal in a laffa bread.  I enjoyed it!  I also love the “Amba”, mango tahini-like sauce they serve on the side in many of the shawarma places.  It goes particularly well with Veal

Haifa – Hazkenim Falafel.  This is the best falafel in the country.  How do I know?  It says so right there on its sign, “Best Falafel in the country”.  and while you are chewing on this one, turn around and there it is, Falafel Michel, “Best Falafel in the neighborhood” :shock:.  And there’s not much else going on on this narrow alley except these 2 behemoths right next to each other competing for bragging rights.  The initial plan was to try both but the plan didnt live long.

Hazkenim (means old people) totally blew us away with those flavorful, crispy balls of goodness.  It had that perfect color on the inside too.  Not too yellow and not too green, which means the just the right amount of parsley, cilantro and what ever other herbs the use.  The perfect Falafel!  So filling we couldnt try the other one.

Livnim – Roberg’s.  Master chef Ilan Roberg’s hidden gem in the Galilee, 10 minutes from Tiberias and the sea of Galilee, perched nicely on a hill.   This is kosher food at its best.

As is the case with many of the dining establishments we encountered, this was again all about the Mezzes, a plethora of delicious small plates including tasty Pâtés, eggplant salads and more.  And just when you ready for the main course, 2 pots of different soups are on the table.   This is not much of a seafood place.  The mains here are mostly unique chicken dishes.  The chili and coconut marinated chicken skewers in particular was tender and tasty.  Other inventive dishes like chicken with peanut butter were satisfying.

Ilan is passionate about his food and is passionate about other people’s food.  Besides participating in various cooking excursions like the upcoming gig with the university of Oklahoma, he also enjoys eating excursions around the world.  Sounds like someone I know.  My neighbor 😛

 

   Dag al Hadan – A trout farm in the upper Galilee serves.. you guessed it… Hummus.  Among other things like the tasty smoked trout dip.   The setting here is the main draw as you are sitting right next to the gushing Dan river.   Oh they also serve some pretty good trout.  No filet, you get the entire trout.   They cook in 3 different ways.  The baked one with pesto was the most memorable.

Tzfat – Lachuch guy.  Lachuch is no ordinary fast food.  A Yemenite spongy flat bread made fresh by an enthusiastic fella wearing traditional yemenite attire.  Add fresh tomatoes, grated cheese, zatar, onions and you got Pizza on crack.  Add the fiery green Z’hug the have on the side and you got a pretty spectacular looking and tasting snack.  What a find in Safed/Tzfat/Madonnaville.  In the map below I believe I got the street correct at very least.  If you are walking up in the market in the old city, its at the near end.   Just look for the guy that looks like in the picture on top.  His name is Ronen I believe.  Special thanks to guide Oreet Segal for the last minute recommendation.

Al Basha in the Mahanaim junction near Rosh pina – an absolutely terrific lunch.  Nice chicken shawarma, falafel, hummus and more.  It’s amazing that you can even have great meals in the middle of nowhere here.  Middle of nowhere in Israel by the way is 2 miles from the nearest city.

Ussafia – Druze village hospitality lunch.  Perhaps the most memorable lunch of the trip.  You sit in a large room and after an explanation about the Druze believes and way of life you get the trays.  Giant trays of fresh pita with zatar, hummus, kabobs, fresh salads and more.  Yumminess all around

Who said you can only eat well in Tel Aviv?  ok, I said it, but still!  Plenty of gems in the North.  Post your favorites below and stay hungry my friends!

Categories: Israel | Tags: , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

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