First meal after a long trip usually feels like a mixed bag, even if the meal goes well. You are reminded of the quality and vastness of the NYC food scene, but at the same time, the cons get more noticeable. The more you travel, especially for food, the more you evaluate and reevaluate service, environment, and value in your own town.
Even small details, like taking away your credit card, instead of bringing the machine to you, suddenly feel like an adjustment. Why is the most developed country (arguably, I know) in the western world seems so stuck sometimes. And why is it suddenly so hard to get a decent meal for under $200 these days. Now we know how tourists feel.
Apologies to the Markette team who might be reading this strange post. Its not you, its me. You actually created a prototypical NYC establishment in a weird location, that still feels fresh somehow. This is not an easy feat in NYC these days. A Caribbean inspired menu utilizing European techniques may just be what NYC didnt know it needed.
Markette opened about a year ago on a block that rarely sees such openings. 7th Ave in Manhattan in Chelsea feels like middle of nowhere, smack in the middle of the city. When was the last time you went there for dinner?
Chef co-owner India Doris created a menu inspired by her Caribbean roots, and it didnt take too long to create a signature dish as showcased on Eater’s Mise en Place, now on Netflix. Oxtail Gratin – braised oxtail topped with fried cheddar polenta is both comforting and distinct tasting. Watching the Eater special makes you appreciate it even more. There was also Dorade which was just as good, thanks to its addictive sauce you can just drink with a straw.
There are also terrific fried Bacalhau balls with a vibrant scotch bonnet aioli. The one knock was that usually I can easily find more dishes that sounded great. But in this case we had to settle for a fried Okra that was flat and oversalted in comparison. The Peri Peri chicken sounded good but got too much negative feedback for my taste. And the $57 lamb seemed a bit too heavy and pricy considering the meal is already heavy (oxtail) and pricy.
The spacious comfortable room, bar, and Carrol the bartender who laughed at all my dad jokes deserve a mention. Markette seems just the type to bring a first date or meet future in-laws. And the drinks are solid. I especially appreciate a place that can make a riff on Paloma better than mine. Markette also operates The Argyle bar downstairs.
Markette is like that country that gave you a positive first impression, a place you will recommend to others, but you just know you will never come back. Its NYC. Life is too short, and some experiences just meant to be one and done. But there’s much to like here, and I would not have written this if I didnt recommend visiting at least once. Go!
Eating With Ziggy 