First, time to make another change to the blog. Its been about 13 incredible years, and food blogs are slowly becoming obsolete, replaced by other forms of social media. I do want to keep it going, but I just dont have the same amount of time and energy. From now on, my NYC blog posts will be short, sweet, and to the point, writing mostly about the food.
Saint Julivert is a seafood focused eatery in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn. Opened in 2018 by Alex Raij and Eder Montero, the husband-and-wife team behind La Vara, next door, and Txikito which I included in the best of NYC list. The well respected duo essentially reinvented Spanish Tapas in NYC. Saint Julivert is on the Michelin Bib Gourmand list (good quality, good value cooking). The dishes are fairly small but the waitstaff recommends 4-5 dishes for two, like any other restaurant.
Sorullitos – Nicely spiced hushpuppies sitting on tangy mayo. Solid, well priced snack. No issues here.
Amberjack – Raw, high quality Amberjack (Kampachi). I appreciated the tomato water and Shiso oil as opposed to the usual acidic crudo, but an expensive 4 bites each when sharing with someone.
Polenta/Chickpeas fritters topped with Baba ghanoush and salmon – A special that sounded good, and it was. But essentially an expensive (over $20) amuse bouche. One weird theme here is that they advise sharing, but serve everything in odd numbers.
Squid a la Placha with Mushrooms – Just fine. Not as good as I hoped. The Mushroom flavors didnt really pop, and the whole dish was just a tad too sweet. Only when I mixed the sauces at the end, I got the right balance.
Venetian style Risotto – Nice smoky flavor, but midway it started to feel like an excellent, pricy side dish. I would have loved to pair with fish or another protein for some texture. For a “Fisherie”, they dont have any fish on the menu, other than an expensive special on this night.
5 dishes, one drink, $170 (includes tax/tips)
Conclusion: Plenty of creativity and top notch ingredients. Just not enough food. Sure I can order more dishes and push it well over $200, but at the end we simply didnt feel like we were getting good value. Not often I can go for a slice of pizza after a meal. If you order 4 dishes as the waitress suggested (“4-5”), you could even do a burger. It felt like an 8 course tasting menu that ended midway. A one and done for me.
Minutes apart, the towns of Montreux and Vevey, on the east side of Lac Léman, aka just dont you dare call it Lake Geneva on this side, compliment each other very well. Montreux got a stunning promenade, while Vevey adds a picturesque old town. If you are staying in a hotel, the Riviera card will provide you easy access to both. You also got the mesmerizing Chillon Castle, and a world class museum, Chaplin’s World nearby, not to mention a stunning wine region. Which means staying for at least three days is ideal. Hence, according to my calculations, you need three meals. I cant say these names will rock your world, as these towns are not exactly culinary destinations. But solid options nonetheless.
Chez Nocente (Vevey)
The amount of Italian eateries all over Switzerland is astonishing. But rarely you come across one that is actually run by an Italian. In this case a Brindisi, Puglia native. The place itself is adorable as I found it by chance the day before we ate there. Smartly furnished, with Italian movie stars, and Pugliese stuff like Trulli displayed throughout. And chances are, you will be the only tourist there.
Start with a glass of Roero-Arnais. Leave the local wine for other establishments. Consider their elaborate salads, eggplant lasagna, and Mozzarella with various pestos. Finish with the pastas like ravioli stuffed with eggplant and scarmozza, and/or the special of the day. I’m on the fence about the Orecchiette with sausage here, but some of the group liked it.
La Table de Montreux
Stylish, Italianish, localish joint, in the center of Montreux. This is where you get your Entrecôte fix. Quality beef arrives sliced, sitting on a hot stone if you want to cook longer (you dont). This is also where we got the best bread of the two week trip. Pizza bread. If its any indication, the pizzas here are solid as well. Finish with the just about perfect, Tiramisu.
Du Pont (Montreux)
If I had to pick one meal, this would be it. Located in the old town, not the most picturesque to be honest. Quite a hike to get up there… for our Uber driver. Quick and easy 10 minute walk down. By the time we left, Du Pont was buzzing with locals. And it’s always amazing to me how in so many European restaurants one person often older than me, runs the entire front with ease.
Enjoy the light, seafoody terrine du leman that comes with a sizeable salad, and/or the Caesar. A top notch beef tartare as good if not better than places we enjoyed in France. But the crème de la crème was the Cocotte Poluet Morelles. Succulent chicken tenders with creamy sauce and morels cooked in a Dutch oven.
Like an alcoholic in a distillery. That’s how I felt when I got off the train in this car free Swiss mountain village, and started walking. The main road is like a red carpet leading to your hotel. It took over 3 hours to get there from Lucerne, but it felt more like a year since thats how long I anticipated this. It’s a bucket list item I never knew I had.
Wengen isnt as posh and famous as Interlaken, Lucerne and the rest of them. It has one 5 star hotel (Belvedere) that recently opened, and sticks out like a sore thumb among all the wooden chalets. It will be a shame if more opened. Says the food blogger that had dinner at the Belvedere one night. It was in the name of research of course. For the children.
Not only you can easily spend 4 nights in Wengen, but make that your minimum. Take the cable car to Männlichen and hike to Kleine Scheidegg and Fallbodensee. On another day, see the other side of the valley (Mürren, Schilthorn, Gimmelwald). Save the rainy day to Thun and the mesmerizing Lake Thun. In destinations as such you need to have some cushion in case of bad weather.
Listen to uncle Ziggy (instead of say my main competitor Travel + leisure that recommends the Belvedere). Stay in Alpenruhe. The hospitality and attention to detail by the young couple running the place is tough to match. The views from the third floor, and the top notch breakfasts are reasons enough.
And might as well have all your meals at Alpenkräuter Restaurant Bären. We haven’t tried many, but this one is quite popular with the locals and the only one that felt like a well functioning, real restaurant, as opposed to a tourist trap or a hotel restaurant. Even though it is in fact inside a hotel.
Well, the people of Reddit have spoken, after putting together the Brooklyn picks. For Manhattan I grouped them instead of creating another map (Brooklyn is huge). And just like with Brooklyn, there are certain areas as you can see where I dont spend much time. UWS and UES are just too far, and not as interesting, while Midtown East and Times Square are hotel/tourist heavy, with minimal parking, and more suited for business lunches. Rarely anything interesting opens there.
I also think its time to retire the Z-List. I’ve been managing it for many years, and I’ve had many people commenting on how useful it is. But a list of 30 that covers a large area, no matter how often updated, can run its course. I know some rely on it, but I think its better to rely on its Brooklyn and Manhattan list replacements at this point. I will leave the Z-List up for a while to give people a chance to say goodbye 😉
I will update these lists often. This one is more or less from south to north, with the borders stretched on occasion to fit everyone…
Tribeca
Nish Nush – One of the best if not the best Falafels in the city for a few decades now.
Au Cheval – Go for the sick burger, stay for the Mac & Cheese.
LES / Chinatown
Ginger and Lemongrass – Pretty much for the spicy lemongrass soup.
Shu Jiao Fu Zhou – Hard to beat for a quick cheap dumplings and noodles.
Spicy Village – Slightly uncomfortable but exceptional Chinese. Try the dumplings and Big Tray of Chicken
Uncle Lou’s – Got a little too touristy lately but this is where I’d go for Cantonese right now
Katz’s Deli – The Pastrami Temple. Mega touristy for a reason
Corima – Affordable, superb creative Mexican
Nolita / Little Italy
Thai Diner – Super popular for a reason. Try to come at Off-peak hours
Wayan – Vongerichten Jr doing all kinds of Indonesian/French magic
19 Cleveland – Excellent all around Israeli
Tomiño Taberna Gallega – NYC’s best if not only pure Galician. Meaning get the Octopus
Figo il Gelato – Fig/Ricotta Gelato when fresh is hard to beat
Soho
Raoul’s – A celebrated old French Bistro.
San Carlo Osteria Piemonte – Almost does Italy’s top food region justice. Order from the Piemonte menu
Rivareno Gelato – I’m an ice cream junky and this is my favorite Gelato these days. Especially appreciate the northern flavors
Pinch Chinese – Outstanding elevated Chinese. A favorite since they opened pretty much
Greenwich Village
Anton’s – I follow certain chefs I admire, until they call the cops 😉 Nick Anderer (Mailino, Marta) did an amazing job curating a great menu at Anton’s. He’s now doing his magic at his second, Leon’s (great lunch so far). Love the brunches here too.
L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele – While not exactly the same as the Napoli original, a fancy pizzeria with a full menu
Jeju Noodle Bar – I preferred this Korean before the Michelin star, but its still outstanding
Balaboosta – The flagship of one of the most celebrated Israeli chefs.
Song’ e Napule – If I have to pick just one pizzeria
Leitao – Superb Portuguese. One of my favorite discoveries in the last few years
Via Carota – Possibly the most well rounded Italian we have. Popular for a reason
Dell’anima – Italian in West Village is having a moment. Just moved back after many years deep in Hell’s Kitchen. Exceptional pastas and chicken.
East Village
Foxface Natural (Temporarily closed) – From a tiny Sandwich shop to creative Michelin style dining.
Hearth – A reliable old timer and the creator of Brodo.
Fiaschetteria “Pistoia” – The closest we have to eating in a Tuscan village
Carnitas Ramirez – Possibly best tacos in NYC today.
Danny & Coop’s Cheesesteaks – Yes, worth the hype.
Spice Brothers – When a spice master opens a fast food Middle Eastern. Worth checking out
Nowon – Our go-to for a simple burger, rice cakes and more.
Claude – Josh Pinsky is another chef I follow for a while, from the Momofuku days in this case.
Flatiron / Gramercy
L’Express – One of the most reliable Brasseries in the city, aging like a fine Bordeaux
Olle – No shortage of great Korean in the area, but you’ll be hard pressed to find better Galbi Jjim
Ulivo – Nice all around Italian, good pizza, and a plethora of fresh pastas by a talented Sardinian
Milu – Fast food Chinese like no other.
Rezdora – Pricy high caliber Italian, especially the pastas, inspired by Emilia Romagna
Chelsea
Jun-Men Ramen – Good ramen but even better non Ramen items like the Mazemen and wings.
Tia Pol / Txikito / Salinas – Three excellent Spanish all timers, near each other. All quite different. I frequent Tia Pol more only because its more accessible.
Hell’s Kitchen
Frena – Elevated middle eastern by a seasoned chef, now owner. Taboon 2.0 for those who remember.
Chalong Southern Thai – Probably best Thai in Hell’s Kitchen today, if not Manhattan.
Danji – Former Michelin Korean. Nice comeback story after a devastating fire
Chi – Solid, stylish Szechuan with a twist
Don Antonio – Legit Neapolitan pies. Just about as good as it gets.
Pure Thai Cookhouse – Legendary Thai in Thai heavy Hell’s Kitchen
UWS
Pig and Khao – Used to frequent the LES location. Same menu as far as I know.
A longish list of my favorites in Brooklyn, the borough I spend the most time eating. Its a huge Borough, fourth-largest city in the United States by population, if it was a city. Hence plenty of great dining that I miss in neighborhoods I dont frequent much, mainly due to where I live. Bushwick is one example. But there are plenty of juicy nuggets in there. The list includes some bakeries, and fast-casual places as well. Happy eating!
Berikoni Georgian Bakery – My go-to for Guruli, a type of khachapuri that’s shaped like a calzone, stuffed with egg and cheese. The cooked kebabs are quite good as well. 125 Brighton Beach Ave
German Doner Kebab – Excellent Doner kebab. Newish as of this writing, and not well know yet. 224 Brighton Beach Ave
Kashkar Cafe – The legend, the OG for Uyghur food. 1141 Brighton Beach Ave
Ocean View Cafe – A Brighton classic for Russian/Ukrainian. Best Pelmeni in the city. 290 Brighton Beach Ave.
Burchak Pide – Delicious Turkish Pizza by a friendly stuff. 1614 Sheepshead Bay Rd
Lucia Pizza Of Avenue X – My slice go-to in South Brooklyn. 2201 Avenue X
Mtskheta Cafe – My favorite Georgian restaurant these days. We are normally the only none-Georgian there. 2812 Ocean Ave
Falafel Tanami – A Celebrated Falafel joint, especially since the NYT discovered it and lines doubled. Note: they are moving to east 19th I believe very soon. 1824 Avenue M
Werkstatt – A versatile Austrian/German like no other in the entire city. 509 Coney Island Ave
Taste of Akko – A newish Israeli hole in the wall dishing out a taste of one of the best food cities in the middle east. 1724 Coney Island Ave
Coszcal De Allende – One of the only authentic Mexicans in South Brooklyn. Or at least unlike the rest of the bunch. Great drinks as well. 7506 3rd Ave.
Xin Fa Bakery – Best egg tarts on the planet. Ok, in Brooklyn. 5617 8th Ave
Kai Feng Fu Dumpling House – Great pocket change dumplings. 4801 8th Ave
Hainan Chicken House – Fantastic Malaysian. 4807 8th Ave
Chuan Tian Xia – Our favorite all around Chinese in Brooklyn’s Chinatown. 5502 7th Ave
La Brasa Peruana – Peruvian Chicken fast food. Part of a monthly takeout routine. 4618 5th Ave.
Tacos El Bronco – Sensational food truck tacos. I prefer over their restaurant on 4th. 860 5th Ave
Red Hook Tavern – One of the best burgers in Brooklyn, if not the entire city. 329 Van Brunt St.
Hometown Bar-B-Que – NYC’s Texas style BBQ Mecca. 454 Van Brunt St
Hoek Pizza – Exceptional Roman style thin pies. 117 Ferris St
Cafe Kestrel – Small elevated New American. Best thing to open in Red Hook since Hometown BBQ. 293 Van Brunt St
Popina – Tiny Italian with a big heart by an experienced chef. 127 Columbia St
Swoony’s – Solid American comfort food. Prefer over popular sister Cafe Spaghetti. 215 Columbia St
Haenyeo – Superb Korean in Park Slope. 239 5th Ave
Bar Bête – French inspired fair by a very capable chef. 263 Smith St
F&F Pizzeria – My favorite slice in North Brooklyn. 459 Court St
Following a family event at the spectacular Garden of the Gods in Colorado, the Ziggy clan picked up a car in Vegas and went on a little adventure. Three days in Zion, two in Bryce, followed by two fun days in LV. After numerous attempts to see Zion in previous years (I’m looking at you Jules), we finally made it. Verdict: Some pain involved, but spectacular to say the least. Here are some tips:
See Valley of Fire State Park on the way – Coming from Las Vegas this is a worthy detour. Even in blistering heat where you’ll encounter “Heat Warning. You might die” signs, you should do it. There are a few short hikes, small stops and plenty to see from the road.
Stay in La Verkin – This might be a bit controversial. Obviously I cant compare to other destinations like Springdale which is at the foot of the entrance to the park. But even though we drove the 30 minutes to the park more than we planned, we were very happy staying in La Verkin. First of all, the drive itself to the park is stunning. Second, it’s much cheaper, especially if you need three rooms like I did. But most importantly, it’s close to other worthy attraction (more below) that are much more relaxing, requiring less effort than Zion. It also got the excellent River Rock Roasting Company, a fine Indian restaurant, and much more.
See Snow Canyon State Park – This is one of the biggest reasons to stay in La Verkin. 40 minutes away is one of the coolest state parks we’ve ever seen. And thanks to Zion, not that many even know about it. Jenny’s Canyon Trail is pretty neat, but will be fairly forgettable once you walk on the spectacular Petrified Sand Dunes. Have brunch/lunch at Black Bear Diner in St. George
Get to Zion Canyon Visitor Center by 8 am – Problem #1. The parking lot at the visitor center fills up early. We were there by 7:30 both days and there werent a whole lot of spots left. On one of the days I was told it was full by 8. By the time you’ll read this, this may change, so best to check with social media boards like TripAdvisor.
Yes, absolutely do The Narrows – Its too hard, its too wet, its too much preparation, its not worth it. Dont let the demons win this one. It will be one of the coolest (literally and figuratively) hikes you’ll ever do. For me, a top 3 hike, perhaps bested only by Caminito del Rey in Spain.
Yes, you have to rent the equipment for the Narrows – Even the stick. Might be obvious to many, but we were surprised to see so many people, including families stumbling and falling all over.
Dont end at Scout Lookout – Scout Lookout on the way to Angels Landing is more strenuous than advertised. It’s quite the climb. You will rest often, and you want to do this when you are well rested. Once you make it to the top, unless you continue to Angels Landing, continue up on the West Rim Trail for a much more serene and beautiful plateau. We were surprised to find ourselves all alone there, considering how crowded Scout Lookout was.
Rest prior to taking the shuttle back – After a long day or hike, taking the shuttle back might be challenging. You may not find a seat, and unlike in the morning, the shuttle will stop at every stop. I’ve had root canals more pleasant than the long rides back after the punishing hikes.
Visit Virgin – I didnt mean this post to sound like a La Verkin tourism ad, but this is another reason to stay west. It’s a tiny town with roughly 700 residents, but so much is happening here. You got tubing, Jeep tours, an excellent restaurant (Balcony One) and one of the coolest souvenir shop I’ve ever seen, Fort Zion. Great for families and adults alike. Its also the gateway to the stunning North Kolob Terrace road.
Come early or late for Pine Creek Canyon Overlook – Very limited parking here. Sunset or Sunrise here are great, though just prior to sunset, the lighting wasnt that great. You may also want to do this on the way out east to your next destination.
Sometimes great discoveries come later in life. And I’m not talking about Labubu. In a city where Italian food is an embarrassment of riches, its easy to fall under the radar, especially when you are in Fort Greene, Brooklyn. The last time I dined in Ft Greene was at least 5 years ago at Miss Ada by the Israeli-born Tomer Blechman who since opened Theodora, one of the toughest tables in NYC these days. I’m still trying.
Larina, approaching its 10th year, is much easier to reserve than Theodora. But you wouldnt know it while walking around a very packed house on a Thursday evening, and seeing the slew of people waiting for a table outside, all speaking Italian. Its owned by 3-5 people depending on who you ask. At the helm is “Top Chef” contestant Silvia Barban.
Silvia’s Italian inspirations is hard to pinpoint. She grew up in the north, spent summers in the south, and cooked with some of the best of them, like Giancarlo Perbellini in his two Michelin star in Verona. She was roasting potatoes by age 6 with her grandma, and cooking entire meals by age 10. When I was 6, I was smoking cigarettes and getting into all kinds of trouble, and by the time I turned 10 I was sneaking into country clubs. Not only I cant cook but its a miracle I’m still alive.
Silvia described her signature Smoked Spaghetti as her life in a bowl. Elements from the north, south, and even NYC (the smokiness). But pretty much all of us came out of the meal with a life in a bowl dish. For my butcher friend it was the steak. For another it was the Lasagna. My friend had a Ratatouille moment when she tasted the Intingolo. And for me it was, what else, pasta perfection from Piedmont. The dish rundown…
Prosciutto di Parma with Mozzarella di Bufala – Your typical high end Prosciutto, though I personally prefer San Daniele over Parma. Mozzarella in this case a little less successful.
Octopus – Not sure it can be cooked any better than this. Spot on flavor and texture, nice complimentary sauce made with uncooked tomatoes among other goodies.
Intingolo – Like a chunky Hummus made with green chickpeas, with shishitos and pumpkin seeds. Goes well with their excellent bread basket (first one free). This was the Ratatouille moment for my friend, reminiscing about her grandma making this dish as a child. She dropped her makeup kit when she tasted it.
Rapa Gialla – Yellow beets and peaches covered with smoked stringy Stracchino. Good though got boring after a few bites. More of a side dish.
Smoked spaghetti – Simple ingredients, sensational flavors. She smokes the spaghetti before cooking, and that smokiness comes through very well. The only thing, maybe related to the process, is that it gets cold quickly. So… mangia mangia.
Lasagna – Looks very messy but tastes like an above average Lasagna. Made with spinach pasta sheets.
Agnolotti del Plin – This is it. the creme de la creme. Better than anything we had in NYC (including at high end places like Claud) and even some places in Piedmont. Braised beef and chicken filling, sage, and butter mixed with the meat jus. In Piedmont many places, even the notable, add only butter, some a lot of it. But the jus adds some oomph, as we learned in Turin. I thought I found a good version in San Carlo in West Village a few weeks ago, but this blew it away.
Steak – Expertly cooked base on the small piece I had.
Tried just about all the desserts and they were all great. Usually I can pick a winner but not in this case. Proper Tiramisu, excellent Panna Cotta with Strawberry compote and almonds, and more. Go!
Hell’s Kitchen needs another Thai restaurant like I need a stone in my sandals. When that happens, do you try to kick it out for 20 minutes or are you normal? I can just remove my shoes, but I’m so close, and there’s no satisfaction whatsoever if you do it the easy way
But as far as Thai food in Hell’s Kitchen goes, its not really a matter of need. The more the merrier, to keep everyone on their toes. Its an embarrassment of Thai riches. While most visitors pair their Broadway show with the classic pre theatre options east of 9th, those in the know think Thai food on 9th or beyond.
Chalong opened about two years ago by three Thai food veterans. To open a spot so close to Pure Thai Cookhouse and LumLum requires a particular set of tools, Liam Nissan style. And Nate Limwong who worked at Fish Cheeks and Soothr might just have the right tools. She grew up in Surat Thani, somewhere between Bangkok and Malaysia in Southern Thailand, hence bringing a fresh take to the hood.
Thai cuisine in NYC can essentially be categorizes into North, Middle, South, with the middle being most familiar to Americans. Northern cuisine had a nice run about 5-10 years, and now catching up at a slower pace. But New Yorkers generally not too familiar with Southern Thai. Much of the land is close to the sea which is reflected on the menus, but you also got the Southern interpretations of classics like Pad Thai which I wouldnt skip here.
At Chalong, not only the food is outstanding, but the room is comfortable and a bit more chic than some of the usual suspects. My old rule of thumb, go to the uglier looking Thai places in Hell’s Kitchen, is becoming just that, old and stale. The rule might have died when LumLum replaced Pam Real Thai. But in case you miss that oxtail soup, Pam is now cooking in Las Vegas at Mama Pam Real Thai Food.
The food rundown…
Jeeb Pu – Crab, shrimp, and pork dumplings. Essentially Shumai on crack. Get this.
Peek Gai Tod – Fantastic sizzling hot Chicken wings. All small ‘mid’ wings which are the best kind. They can carry more flavor, and usually crispier, as was the case here.
Sator Goog – A fiery combination of ground pork, stinky beans that look like Fava Beans, shrimp and curry paste. Waiter warned that its Thai spicy but it was more like borderline. Needless to say, Mardi Gras in your mouth.
Crab Curry – As good and well balanced as they get. Includes a small crispy soft shell crab for good measure.
Tom Som Pla – Nice southern style Tom Yum soup with Chilean sea bass chunks and Enoki mushrooms of all sizes. I think I enjoyed the Enkoi more than the fish which wasnt bad at all. The rest of the group found it over lemongrassed, but I didn’t mind.
Mee Pum Riang – Southern style Pad Thai with shrimp. One of my friends cant tolerate too much spice so figured we’ll try it. It still had just enough heat, and was actually one of the better dishes. The coconut curry cream really transforms it, in the looks dept as well. Go!
Chalong 749 9th Ave (Hell’s Kitchen) Recommended Dishes: All of the above
Eating With Ziggy 