10 Best Things We Ate in CDMX

Posted on May 9, 2023 by Ziggy

How does one come up with 10 on a four day trip? Its complicated. The long explanation starts with my childhood, and requires lying down on an old couch to tell the story. It has to be an old couch, preferably beige. The short version is that’s how we roll, especially on a food focused trip as such. I can actually come up with 10 items in just one of the days. That’s Mexico City for you.

Green Chorizo Taco at Mercado de Jamaica

I think Eva Longoria made a mistake here. This is a life altering taco that didnt require any salsa to enhance the flavor. But on Eva’s Searching for Mexico show on CNN, while I was delighted to see her visit the same place we did, I was terrified by the amount of salsa she added on this delicate beauty. This jewel was part of a tour with Eat Like a Local.

Pescado a la Talla at Contramar

Imagine opening a restaurant that evolves around a dish that eventually becomes a national treasure. And before you know it, you are the food consultant to the president. Thats exactly what happened to Gabriela Cámara, and her famous two color snapper. I’ve had wonderful fish with one of those colors before that is a bore fest compared to this experience, where you essentially make the fish tacos of your dreams.

Suadero Taco at Tacos El Güero (San Rafael)

Rule number one of fight club: Aim for tacos outside the gentrified areas, or in this case, areas that refuse to gentrify. Not only you’ll find them at a fraction of the cost, but quite tastier as well. Suadero, sadly rarely seen in NYC, is essentially the beef (brisket) version of Carnitas. Here you’ll find them just fatty enough, crispy, and quite tender. And you’ll most likely be the only tourist, but dont get intimidated. And dont skip on the sick pastor as well.

Chile en Nogada at Angelopolitano

Yet another rarity in the USA, and once you see and taste it you’ll understand why. It looks like a dish typically made once a year on a special holiday, and for some it is in Mexico (Independence Day). But at Angelopolitano, you’ll find it year round, even when pomegranate is not in season. Its a hearty combination of meat, candied and dried fruit stuffed in poblano chile, and topped with walnut cream sauce, and pomegranate. Typically served room temperature.

Pibil Tacos at El Turix

At the glamorous Polanco, you can either dine with ladies who lunch across the street at Maque, or sit on the sidewalk with construction workers at El Turix. We did both, for research of course. And the construction workers got it right. An outstanding Cochinita Pibil wrapped in a deliciouso soft tortilla from this busy hole in the wall. And you may also see many munching on the fine Panuchos (fried tortillas stuffed with beans, topped with shredded chicken)

Lengua Tostada – Amatista Tostadas (Coyoacán)

This is another one of those if you know, you know type place in the foody paradise Coyoacán. Popular with tour guides, other locals, and tourists alike. They dish all sorts of delights like a fine Aztec soup, and fancier Tostadas like Octopus and tuna. But that Lengua Tostada, covered with an intense but pleasant dark 7 chili sauce was the eye opener. A fiesta in your mouth. Try to go when they open or prepare to wait a little, especially if a tour occupies the entire second room.

“Veracruzanos” at La Cocina de mi Mamá (Coyoacán Market)

While most tourists head to the insta-heavy Tostadas Coyoacán, the locals sneak to the back of the market for this literally hidden gem. We had to ask another vendor who was very happy to bring us there, but its probably more fun to find on your own. This dish is exhibit A why Mexicans take their breakfasts very seriously. Tortillas filled with eggs, bathed in bean sauce, chorizo, onions, cheese and peppers. Sensational to say the least.

Taco course at Quintonil

Its hard to pick a dish from a meal full of standouts. Every dish played a role, but perhaps none bigger than the extravagant Taco course. There were charred avocado with Escamoles (insect caviar), smoked cactus salad, Oyster mushrooms, pureed beans from Oaxaca, nutty Crottin cheese, chorizo with oats, and more. It could have been a fine meal in itself, but at Quintonil its just another course.

Lengua Taco at Tacos “El Betin”

I think the term ‘hole in the wall’ was invented here. This was our first stop on a taco crawl in San Rafael. Great pastor, but the Lengua was like a smack in the face. Just about the most delicate, tender Lengua I ever had. Just like other spots in San Rafael, you may find yourself surrounded by locals, or a food tour.

Grandma’s Flan at La Casa de Toño

Come for the hearty pozole, the specialty at this American-like mini chain, but stay for Grandmas Flan. Nothing really out of the ordinary here. Just a solid flan, Caramel freaks like me, crave and enjoy. La Casa de Toño is one of a few good options open Sunday night, popular among locals too. You’ll get a number and wait to be called or displayed on the screen.

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Foxface Natural – A Star is (re)Born

Posted on May 2, 2023 by Ziggy

December 2023 Update

A triumphant return results in a triumph. I dont know why it took me so long to come back. Travel, holidays, personal stuff, always in the way. I even brought a doctor’s note, but it was never requested. While I havent been back since May, it was interesting to follow the many developments of Foxface Natural, mainly in the media. I expected great things, but not quite the kind of hype so soon. Needless to say, the built up expectations were met and then some.

The three of us started with some raw goodness. Two raw fish dishes that could not have been more different, showcasing that range. Pastrami spiced Hiramasa with horseradish, and preserved lemon was quite the delicate treat. As brilliant as it was, it was upstaged by the quality Maine Bluefin with cured olives, fermented tomato and smoked chive olive oil. Pure joy with every morsel.

I dont think you can find more tender meat than the super slow cooked Boer Goat. Served with similar texture eggplant and fermented Okra providing some crunch. This would have been a highlight in many places, but here it’s my least favorite main (albeit the girl’s favorite), though something I’d order again, and again.

Another hit was Monkfish roasted on the bone, with thick but mild Chraime sauce that complimented that richness nicely. It comes with addictive crispy sunchokes with quality Harrisa on a separate plate. Always expect the unexpected here. But the piece de resistance for me was the Pato Con Arroz. An expertly cooked dry aged duck confit with delicious rice and a Aji Amarillo (Peruvian yellow chili) based puree that made the dish quite distinct tasting.

Ended with two outstanding Gelato. Chai and Buttermilk Gelato with Saffron poached pear, and the Prickly Pear Gelato. Though if I have to choose I’ll take the former. Easily one of the best meals of the year for me and tough to please significant others. My daughter asked me how to describe this cuisine. The best I came up with New American on steroids. Go!

Original Post (May 2023)

Long time readers and my East Village food tour (RIP) participants are all too familiar with Foxface, the little sandwich shop that could. It is now Foxface Natural. As in the natural progression from a successful sandwich shop to a full service restaurant in the former Harry and Ida’s space. This first meal was a bitter sweet moment for me, after spending countless hours munching on pastrami at Harry and Ida’s over the years. They did call the cops on me once, but two nights in jail was a very small price to pay.

My first meal, of most likely many, at Foxface Natural was a memorable one. Though there’s one tiny issue with the place I should tell you about first. Its not really open yet. This was a pre-opening hummus and oysters themed event with chef Maoz Alonim of the famed Basta in Tel Aviv. EWZ historians will tell you that I dont normally attend such events, as I’m more of a “see you in about a year” type. But I attended this one, as I’m all too familiar with chef/owner Sivan’s capabilities.

So this is more of a public announcement rather than a lengthy review. What we got was a small preview of things to come. And with Sivan’s range, its anyone’s guess what will be on the menu on day one. Although something tells me the plate of the most distinct tasting pickles I’ve ever seen, and I, will exchange pleasantries in the future.

The old smoker that stayed behind is responsible for most of the hits. A superb lamb shoulder sitting on top of ultra creamy hummus, with a punchy green S’chug (Yemenite hot sauce). I’m more of a red S’chug guy, but good S’chug is good S’chug. Another hit was a slow smoked goat that comes with a soothing spiced yogurt sauce, almonds and mint.

And just because we dont eat nearly enough Feta at home (inside joke), we just had to try the Feta with eggplant, roasted in the new wood fired oven, sitting on a beautiful nettle puree. The lone dessert of Tahini Gelato with pistachios was just the proper finish.

Its a refreshing “mom & pop” debut in an increasingly corporate Manhattan. Old Harry and Ida’s fans will not recognize the new space, about a year in the making. The bar dominates the long room (I forgot to take pictures), and its safe to expect good wine. There will be wonderful smoked meat, glorious fish, but more importantly with Sivan, expect the unexpected.

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CDMX – If I Can Offer Just Ten Tips

Posted on April 25, 2023 by Ziggy

A follow up to “If I Can Offer Just One Tip”. We only spent 4 days, but somehow managed to see, do, and boy oh boy eat plenty. Not only I try to include tips that you wont find on every other list, but some are actually contradictory in a way. This is designed more for first timers. Stay tuned for the obligatory top 10 dishes which will be fairly easy to do in this case even with such a short stay.

Stay in/near Centro

Classic Ziggy fashion, starting with the one where he loses half of the audience. But hear me out. I’m not so much advocating the heart of Centro but the south/west edges, or really in/near Colonia Tabacalera or Juárez. Much of the advice out there is to stay in La Condesa or Roma areas which are some of the most gentrified areas of CDMX. I found them not terribly different than what you find in large US cities. Different but not terribly like the beautiful chaos of Centro during the day. We enjoyed spending most evenings in La Condesa/Roma, and Ubering back to our hotel (10 minutes, cheap). Many of the sites are so spread out, you’ll be Ubering plenty no matter where you stay. But we found the Barceló México Reforma location perfect for us first timers. Walking distance to all the sites in the Centro, the up and coming neighborhoods of San Rafael and Juárez, and close enough to the night scenes of Roma.

Sunday is Fun Day

Its a double-edged sword for foodies. Many restaurants close or close early on Sundays. But this is also a pleasant day to spend in CDMX. The canals and boats of Xochimilco are essentially a one giant party on Sundays. The otherwise crazy busy Reforma is closed to traffic, so a good day to bike the monument filled blvd. You got afternoon dancing at the Alameda de Santa María, and much more. Since most likely you’ll spend less than a week in CDMX, try to have a full Sunday be part of the plan.

Frida Kahlo Museum – Temper expectations

Its a wonderful little museum no doubt. But the commercial and touristy aspect of it is a major turn off. Between buying the timed tickets well in advance, the crowds, standing on line to get in. Want to take photos? That’s another fee. All that planning and hoopla for a crowded 45 minute quicky, without any of the wonderful Frida work on display. If you are a Frida fan, its an obvious must. Otherwise, watch the movie (its great even today) prior to your visit if you go, or skip altogether.

Although Coyoacán in itself is a must

On the other hand, Coyoacán, the location of Frida’s museum is a stunner. You got the fantastic Coyoacán market, the main square surrounding Fuente de los Coyotes, the artisan market of Allende Garden on Sundays, and just wandering around the streets is such a pleasure. And we happened to find some of the best food we’ve had on the trip here (more on that on the next post).

Take Your Probiotics?

I’m not a gastroenterologist and dont even play one on the internet, hence the question mark. This is just something I picked up from another blog. The biggest problem with Mexico City is the chance of getting sick. No matter how careful you’ll be, its always a possibility, and perhaps not a destination for very sensitive stomachs. But we followed the advice of taking Probiotics daily starting a week prior to the trip, and other than minor tummy trouble on the last day before departure, we were fine. Coincidentally, or not, on the day before departure we forgot to take our Probiotics.

Watch your step

Remember when I said the biggest problem is getting sick? I lied. The most dangerous thing in Mexico City might actually be the sidewalks. The city is essentially built on a lake by the Aztecs. The clay the city rests on dries up, collapses and results in broken and uneven sidewalks all over. I had a few close calls, and I imagine its not easy to navigate on a wheelchair. While you marvel at the scene and architecture, its very easy to lose focus.

Dont overlook the smaller museums

CDMX is a museum powerhouse, with world class museums scattered all over the city. So with everyone and their mothers flocking to them, its easy to overlook the smaller, less popular ones like the colorful Museo de Arte Popular, and Museo Mural Diego Rivera. The latter houses a Rivera masterpiece that miraculously survived the great earthquake of 1985 when it was inside a hotel. Pound for pound they can offer a better experience and fun/crowds ratio for people with limited time.

Do the Anthropology Museum, but preferably with a guide

This is more of note to self, but a tip nonetheless. We did not see the museum with a guide, but wished we did. Its an awe-inspiring, world class museum that attracts tourists and locals (including many school trips) alike. Whether you are into anthropology is almost irrelevant in this case. While you’ll admire the design and artifacts, the crowds, and the sheer volume of information is overwhelming and may be best appreciated with a guide.

Take Uber over Taxi

We had a 50% success rate with taxis, and 100% with Uber. Uber is cheap, reliable, and its very hard to get scammed when you agree on the price upfront. On the other hand, taxi scams are unfortunately more common. If you must take a taxi from the airport, at least make sure they dont sell you an oversized car for over $500 pesos. If you only need a sedan, ask for a sedan.

Design your own taco crawl

That’s not to say, dont take a tour. Absolutely take one, but might as well make it something that’s more outside your comfort zone, like the market tour of Eat Like a Local mentioned earlier. But designing a taco crawl in CDMX is fairy easy and fun. Here’s one idea in San Rafael: Lengua and Tripa tacos at El Betin, Suadero and Pastor at El Güero, and El Barrigon with beer at Porcino.

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Quintonil {CDMX}- Where Hyper-modern Meets Tradition

Posted on April 17, 2023 by Ziggy

Even the street names of ultramodern Polanco are snobby sounding… Isaac Newton, Galileo, Alejandro Dumas (or Dumbass as per Shashank). Just about all the streets are named after important writers, philosophers, politicians, and food bloggers. Walking around the area is like playing Jeopardy. Who is President Masaryk! Compared to the rest of Mexico City, the Polanco neighborhood feels like a Beverly Hills gated community without the gates.

Its a rather picturesque, unapologetic enclave filled with ladies with big hats who eat avocado toasts at places like “Snob bistro”. Yes, its a real place inside an attractive development, straight out of Coconut Grove. But yet, we counted three yellow boots, locking pricy cars for some reason. Too important to pay their tickets, or too many spare beemers? There’s a video that went viral recently showing a Polanco resident yelling at a parking officer.

Its therefore not a surprise that Pujol, Quintonil and other CDMX elite are in Polanco. Frankly, I “settled” on #9 world ranked Quintonil over #5 Pujol because I fell asleep and missed my Pujol reservation window. I could barely score one at Quintonil. But while Pujol is the more famous, there’s really no consensus in the city on who’s the best.

From the outside, Jorge Vallejo’s, Quintonil, just like so many great ones, like Osteria Francescana, looks unassuming. While inside, the smart decor, and the pampering of a world class spa, sets the ‘we are not in Kansas anymore’ tone. This was a birthday treat, as was the entire food focused trip. And the result was two unforgettable hours.

The fun actually starts when you reserve months in advance. Do I want a main dining room a la carte, the seemingly insect heavy bar tasting menu, or the dining room tasting menu. The latter two require a significant deposit, roughly 5x the a la carte option. But the fine print states that one can simply opt for the dining room tasting menu upon arrival (when booking the dining room), which raises the question, why would anyone pre-order that over the cheaper a la carte. And after the 4th glass of the excellent matching wines, I tried, unsuccessfully, to get to the bottom of it with my new BFF waiter, while Mrs Z kicking me under the table. After the fourth kick, my facial expression changed, and by the look of his, he probably suspected I was having a stroke, or gas.

As for the food (Its about time Ziggy, sheesh), not one dud, and nothing stood out above all. And that’s a good thing in this case. Like a winning team without a star. Every dish complemented the next and previous. A harmonic flow of colors, textures, and umami. What looked like a simple melon salad, was actually an extravagant melon, tomato, horchata, and pumpkin seed concoction. And what looked like a another photogenic concoction, was a tasty riff on the classic Scallop Margarita with a vivid Aguachile, wasabi, and nori.

In between single courses, you even had a chance to play taco master with carefully selected ingredients that filled the table. There was charred avocado with Escamoles (insect caviar). Smoked cactus salad. Salsad oyster mushrooms. Pureed beans from Oaxaca. Nutty Crottin cheese. Chorizo with oats, and more. Add delicious corn tortillas and you got a flavor jammed fest.

Then comes a perfectly cooked Striped Bass with seafood infused basmati and a coconuty sauce. A young goat with chickpeas puree, and herbs, was aromatic and superb. The dishes featured more science than my combined 4 years of college. Its avant-garde alright, but undeniably Mexican.

The scrumptious desserts really complete the experience. All four of them. A Cactus paddle sorbet. A delightful Creme Fraiche with passion fruit and caviar. The stupendous Guava “rocks”, with pink peppercorns, and caramelized white chocolate. And just when you are about to get too full, comes a birthday flan for the ages. One of those meals, and yet another reason to visit this food paradise.

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Au Cheval – Anatomy of a Burger

Posted on April 12, 2023 by Ziggy

When your spouse goes, “I feel like a Burger”, in NYC you might as well take your Ibuprofen 600 right at that moment. Not in 20 minutes, not in an hour, no sense of waiting any longer. Take it, and call in sick the next day. In most cities in the US its a fairly simple request. But here, before you know it, your mind goes berserk with a circus of possibilities. What kind, what kind of place, where? Do you want shake shack, other fast-food, fast-casual, diner, any of the 798 restaurants we know, steakhouse? All offer 50 shades of burger. You can also sub burger with pizza and get the same results.

With that said, this time wasnt as bad as before, and Au Cheval came to mind fairly quickly. A place that opened to much fanfare three years ago. You see, I’m one of those weird food bloggers that can wait years to eat at a popular place. I’m fairly low on the FOMO scale. I have one or two names in my head that stick around for a while until I forget about them or replace them. At the moment the name is Foul Witch. Cant reserve it for the life of me.

Au Cheval in Chicago, IL. Photo by Kevin J. Miyazaki/PLATE

Au Cheval is a Chicago import that’s billed as a diner. I dont know about Chicago, but calling this a diner in NYC is like calling an old school steakhouse, a shoe store. They both sell stuff. To find the place, you may need to play restaurant hide and seek. Even when you find the tiny alley, you still need to look for it. Once you enter, it feels like a hidden speakeasy.

There’s nothing extraordinary about the burger. “Then why are you dedicating an entire post to it, Ziggy?” Another good question Timmy. The answer is, as per above, NYC is blessed with a number of fancy burgers. And this is just a really solid burger. Its more of a sum of its parts situation, as opposed to a particularly noteworthy patty.

Its a regular burger on steroids, especially once you add the suggested fried egg and bacon. The bun is a perfectly soft brioche. Just the kind of softness and sturdiness you want from the supporting role. You get three thick cut, peppery and salty bacon strips that add just enough crispiness and flavor. The egg I usually find is more for aesthetics, but that’s not a negative. You get much of the juiciness from the American Cheese, and the “dijonaise”. All this results in a very satisfying bite for burger lovers, and most likely haters. Hence the long waits early on.

Its not a cheap burger if you opt to include the bacon and egg. Its $22 without, and just north of $30 with. Add the fries which I recommend sharing, and its way past your normal burger with fries price. But thats Manhattan for you these days. As for the rest of the menu, its actually quite interesting. I heard. I havent even glanced at it, but the many reports sound promising. Some, like Eater even claim, the burger is one of the least interesting items. But judging by how many burgers we’ve seen parading the room, good luck trying to order anything else.

Au Cheval
33 Cortlandt Alley (Tribeca)

Au Cheval

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CDMX – If I Can Offer Just One Tip

Posted on April 9, 2023 by Ziggy

Mexico City will open your eyes. You might as well forget everything you know about Mexican food and Mexican culture. If you think that tacos mostly come with hard shells, or the Day of the Dead parades have been around for a long time, prepare to be surprised. The latter was actually inspired by a recent James Bond Movie. And the former, Ok, I dont know anyone who eats at Taco Bell regularly, but you get my drift. They are out there.

This city may also change the way you travel. We American city slickers, often lean toward smaller… villages, small towns, country side, places that are total opposite of where we live. Mexico City, the largest Metropolitan in North America, challenges that theory. I’ve been thinking about going back from the moment we left. You get a sense of unfinished business.

I’ve never had so much to write after a short trip. I have many useful tips, even though we just barely scratched the surface. I will offer more tips in no time, but today I will offer just one. I dont want you to think I’m lazy (I most definitely am, but I dont want you to think that), but this tip is a rather important one.

Take the half day Markets and Street Food tour with Eat Like a Local.

“But Ziggy, arent you a guide, or a former guide or something? And so, arent you biased?”. Good question Timmy! It’s true. But I only love to write about experiences I like. There are some tours I took in Europe and the US that I never mentioned here. And being a former guide, and someone who’s been taking tours all over the world, gives you a decent understanding of what a good tour should be.

Simply put, this is an outstanding tour. It’s a little more expensive than other tours in CDMX but you do get what you pay for and then some. Mainly you get the benefit of a limit of 6 guests, which is the lowest I’ve seen outside of private tours. It’s a female only, CDMX born group that focuses on responsible tourism including paying the vendors well. Judging by the smiles and hugs we witnessed, this is not a gimmick.

The focus is on Merced and Jamaica markets with some snacking in Condesa at the beginning and end. What you get is a brilliant array of street food including insects, tacos, fruits, sweets, huitlacoche (corn fungus), incredible corn in a cup, and a life altering green Chorizo taco that did not need any salsa or anything really. About 20 tastings but we never felt too full. Very good pace, and plenty of much needed rests for a drink when needed. With a small group (us and another couple) it was like a local showing us around. You get a better understanding and appreciation of local culture (see first two paragraphs).

Taking food tours anywhere is usually a good idea. In addition to the usual benefits there are the added intangibles like meeting other travelers, and spending time with a local. And so you are often at the mercy of the person you meet, and Panda, our guide (thats her nickname) is just the right kind you want to spend four hours with. They bill their tours for people who hate tours. You wont find too many tours out there that involve subway rides, and such small groups. But this is also for people who love tours.

Eat Like a Local Mexico – Best food tours in Mexico City
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Contramar {CDMX} – The Culinary Gringo Happy Place

Posted on April 4, 2023 by Ziggy

How to not look a tourist? A strange question people have been asking since the beginning of time. In NYC my usual answer is walk fast, ditch your family, abduct a dog from the dog park, and ask random strangers if they like comedy. No one will confuse you for being a tourist. You may go to jail but its a tiny price to pay for the privilege of living like a New Yorker.

But the real question I have is what is wrong exactly with looking like a tourist. Is the tourist stigma really that strong in some parts of the world, or is it the fascination of trying to live like a local, and get a taste of local culture. Perhaps a combination of the wants?

Living in a city like NYC, the flip side resonates with me more. Locals should try to look more like tourists. We often take this fascinating city for granted, and spend our time rushing to the next task. We may pass by the same building 300 times without seeing what tourists see. What if we pause, slow down, smell the roses, and play with the squirrels from time to time.

Anywho, if you are a gringo like me, looking like a local is practically impossible in Mexico City. Especially when you are having lunch at the excellent Contramar, surrounded entirely by tourists. As is the case with many such establishments these days in CDMX, gentrification, and the price points of a Contramar price out the vast majority of the local population. Hence, a destination for the food tourist.

Contramar opened in 1998 by Gabriela Cámara, one of the most influential chefs in Mexico. In fact since 2019 she is also the culinary advisor to Mexico’s president. Sort of the Mexican version of Biden’s senior Ice Cream advisor, and Trump’s burger consultants. At some point Gabriela opened Cala in San Francisco, and the two restaurants were the subject of Netflix’s A Tale of Two Kitchens. The pandemic, Cámara’s move back to Mexico for the presidential job, and other factors contributed to the closing of Cala a few years back.

But Contramar continues to shine, partly thanks to their signatures – tuna tostadas, and the “red and green” fish. The latter is called Pescado a la talla on the menu, and it is glorious. Its a butterflied red snapper, cooked with a red chili sauce on one side, and parsley sauce on the other. Unlike other such dishes we’ve had, the fish is sauced prior to cooking. You’ll see it being paraded all over the place, along with a tray of taco accessories. The tacos we made from this fish were addictive to say the least, though I give the nod to the tangier red side.

And as good as the famous buttery, silky smooth tuna tostadas were, the Galician octopus app was equally as outstanding. Galician style octopus is one of my favorite dishes on the planet, and this was a beautiful and delicate version. We also couldnt find much fault with their famous fig tart either. Even though much of the flavor came from the base, not so much the fig. Another looker, like the rest of the dishes.

Cant get reservations? No problem. Just email them. This is not Pujol or Quintenil where reservations are hard to get. Its important to also mention the Margaritas at Contramar set the stage for pedestrian drinks the rest of the trip. The main room is stunning, comfortable, and the service is like a super friendly well oiled machine. Touristy or not, Contramar is in the business of culinary happiness. Go!

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This is CDMX

Posted on March 31, 2023 by Ziggy

CDMX – Ciudad de México – Mexico City to those not familiar. If you’ve never been to Mexico City city, there’s a decent chance you never heard of it referred as CDMX before. I was in that camp up until six months ago when I decided to make a birthday trip out of it. And now all I can think of is what took me so long, and where in NYC can I get a decent Suadero, or green chorizo taco.

The good news is that I will write in more detail about CDMX soon, especially about the food. The bad news, I scheduled mouth surgery right after the trip (yesterday) so I am out of commission in NYC for a few weeks unless you want me to review Oatmeal. Quaker’s Raisin, Date, Walnut is winning that horse race for now.

But for the time being, I will just tell you, in all my years of travel, I’ve never seen anything like CDMX. The combination of distinctly different neighborhoods, sprawling markets, street food everywhere you turn, jaw dropping monuments, world class museums, is on another level. I expected to see different, and I got that and then some.

It’s incredibly rich culture is best understood via food of course, although there are some interesting boutique museums that help describe in other ways. In addition to the plethora of street food, and I mean plethora, you got a hefty amount of contemporary options including two in the coveted “top 50 restaurants in the world” list. Will tell more soon.

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Rana Fifteen – Turkish Delights in Park Slope

Posted on March 21, 2023 by Ziggy

Quick, whats the opening lyrics of Bohemian Rhapsody? If you said “Mama”, you are in the majority, and wrong. If you said. “Is this the real life?”, you probably looked it up, after thinking Mama first. No matter how many times we listened to it, we are conditioned to think Mama first. It’s either somehow stuck, or the subconscious default answer as to many other things. How did you learn to cook? Mama. Why do you hate Mushrooms? Mama. Why do you rather not re-enter the house after forgetting something and instead ask me to bring it to you outside even if it means wasting precious minutes? Mama.

Mama was the reason why I didnt care so much for fish growing up. Then I realized I only knew her fish, and there’s other fish in the sea. My answer to how I learned to cook is actually Google. Both of our mom’s are typical eastern European “hold the flavor” cooks. When I go to my in-laws, they know to put certain dishes away from me, and the salt and pepper grinders as close as possible. I’m the only one using the grinders. They are so old they’ve become sticky, and although I continue to use them, I suspect most of the flavor is gone by now.

So instead, we live vicariously through restaurateurs that got their inspiration from moms that can flat out cook. Take Rana Fifteen, a newish joint on the border of Park Slope and Gowanus. Owner Ahmet Kiranbay’s mom Rana, as many moms in Western Turkey, would lay out a feast for the senses on every meal. Fifteen dishes approximately. Hence the number of plates you get if you choose the Rana’s Table option at Rana Fifteen. Just pick the main, one of the three sides, and you get everything but the kitchen sink.

They start you off with the appetizers. Like, all of them. And all of them have an ingredient or two that gives them the extra oomph. From the supremely flavorful garlic shrimp, to the perfectly creamy Labneh, to the as cool as the other side of the pillow Tarama fish roe. It will take a good amount of time to try all of them, and it will take an equal of amount figuring out your favorites. I crowned the Labneh, but there was no wrong answer.

As for the mains, so far, unconventionally we tried the chicken and Iskender steak as opposed to seafood. The steak was a nicely cooked strip topped with tangy tomato sauce (hence Iskender), sitting on top of bits of pita with yogurt on the side. I always hesitate to touch the yogurt when things work. The chicken is nicely spiced, albeit not easy to cut. While I enjoyed the two, seeing the octopus and branzino parade around the room, made me dream of coming back for a third feast. Note, this deal is for two people minimum, and you share a main for two. Its more than enough food.

The first meal was brunch, and the concept is similar. Just pick the egg dish and you get that to share plus a thoughtful array of a dozen or so savory and sweet homemade delights including outstanding pancakes and spreads. A symphony of flavors. There are only two egg dishes to choose from, which I kind of like. Less is more. I usually stop reading when I see a Menemen, one of my all time favorite eggy creations. You can have them scrambled, or Shakshuka style

Rana Fifteen is the latest from Ahmet Kiranbay and Armando Litiatco, the duo that brough us another EWZ darling, FOB Filipino. I tend to stalk the chefs I like. This duo is what NYC food is all about. A multinational homage to our ancestors. The Rana experience is closer to eating in someone’s home, rather than eating in a typical Manhattan resto. The friendly “Brooklyn casual” service, and exposed beams are the perfect fit. Meaning, dont expect your glass to be filled every 5 minutes, or even know the name of your waiter. Just go and enjoy mama’s cooking at its finest.

Rana Fifteen
209 4th Ave (Park Slope)
Recommended Dishes: Rana’s Table (Brunch, Dinner)

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Sweets Village

Posted on March 15, 2023 by Ziggy

Do you ever cross to the other side of the city for dessert or are you normal? Whether we are finishing lunch in Tribeca, dinner in Hell’s Kitchen, or brunch in Greenpoint, we often end up in East Village. It can take 30-60 minutes to make the schlep, but that’s just part of living here. Unlike in say Florida, or anywhere else pretty much, 30 minutes doesnt feel very long here.

Why dessert in East Village? Same answer as why there’s so much Thai food in Hell’s Kitchen, and do pigeons pee. I’m not really sure. But I suspect its part of the same sad reality I’ve been talking about for many years… location location location. East Village is the last Manhattan neighborhood where mom and pops can still easily open shop. That’s been the case for a while now. But during the last few years, there’s been an inflow of supremely talented bakers essentially completing the picture of Sweets Village.

Between the dessert bars, ice cream, and all the new and old bakeries, you got a wealth of sugary options scattered all over the area. But what makes it an embarrassment of riches is the high quality and the variety of experiences, from a fancy multi course dessert meal to a simple croissant. Ok, not so simple. And as for the quality, I dont ever recall seeing so many lines for sweets on a Saturday afternoon. While you’ll find a bad case of FOMO in every neighborhood these days, in EV its on a block by block basis.

I will not be able to cover all of them, as I have more important things to do, like argue with random people on Twitter, but here are some solid options for your next sweets crawl.

Librae Bakery (35 Cooper Sq) – One of the newer kids already generating much buzz. A Bahrain import, so expect middle eastern influences like Za’atar Labneh Morning Bun. But many, including us line up for the Pistachio Rose Croissants, a rich, airy, ultra flaky pastry, so messy you’ll feed all the resident squirrels on the go.

La Cabra – (152 2nd Ave) – Another new one generating long lines, perhaps the longest of the bunch. A Copenhagen import specializing in coffee, but people flock for the sick cardamom buns. I suspect you’ll see more of that in NYC soon, just like Basque Cheesecakes and other trends.

ChikaLicious Dessert Bar (203 E 10th St) – I’ve written about this place a few times in the past. Chika Tillman is a local legend. Grab a seat at the counter (if you can) and watch her and her talented assistant make magic. Pick the dessert from the menu for $25 and you’ll get a treat before and after. The outrageously light and delicious Fromage Blanc Island Cheese Cake has been on the menu from the beginning. A one of a kind experience in NYC.

Spot Dessert Bar (13 St Marks Pl) – Another fantastic dessert parlor, with full service. Incredibly unique, instagramble creations. Every single item I’ve had here including all the regulars and many specials were insanely delicious. I cant figure out my favorites, though my family is partial to the Matcha Lava, but really just the lava part, not so much the matcha ice cream. The Harvest might be the most famous.

Lady Wong (332 E 9th St) – Another Asian inspired dessert boutique. Run by a creative duo who spent a significant time cooking in high end restaurants in Singapore, including Michelin starred. You’ll see plenty of green items, due to the wide use of Pandan. Give the Panna Cotta a try, especially if you are a coconut lover. A sharp reminder that every dessert should come with a syrup dispenser.

Veniero’s Pasticceria & Caffe (342 E 11th St) – The grandaddy. One of the last remaining old Italian bakeries, offering fantastic cheesecakes, tiramisu, and all the rest of the classics. Its as old as the Brooklyn bridge!

Caffè Panna (77 Irving Pl) – Not in East Village, but close enough (Gramercy) and worth mentioning. This is where we go for some of the best Affogato in NYC.

This is a good start but there’s much more. Another place generating much buzz is Baonanas and its banana pudding. I havent had the pleasure (as of this writing, this may change any hour). There’s also no shortage of quality gelato and ice cream, although the best are just a bit outside of East Village… il laboratorio, Amorino… But deliciousness has no borders. Bon Appetit!

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

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