Casa Mateos – Goldilocks Dining in Ronda

There’s something to be said about Ronda that made her the first place I blogged about after we got back from Andalucia. I already sang her praises in any way I could with my limited vocabulary. Its one of those perfect tourist towns that check all the boxes as far as food, beauty, uniqueness, and size go. Not to mention the Tuscan-like surrounding area.

Normally when tourists arrive at such places, they check into the hotel (perhaps the Parador or Catalonia in this case), wash, relax, and marvel at the mesmerizing views which Ronda offers. Thats what normal people do. Me? I dropped everyone and everything, battled tourist traffic while parking the car, and speed walked the 10 minutes straight to Casa Mateos to reserve for tomorrow. The last order of business in the Ronda plan.

Guiarepsol

Pound for pound Ronda was our top food city, although our two meals there could not have been more different (the other, the legendary and astonishingly cheap El Lechuguita). But I started having my doubts about Casa Mateos when the second local we met told us we absolutely must go to Tragatá, Benito Gómez’s more affordable project after two Michelin Bardal. The saving grace was when the second local, while playing chess with my friend in Olvera, enthusiastically told us about his other favorite, Casa Mateos. Crisis averted. He even helped us with what to order.

In the two weeks of wining and dining all over Andalucia, I’ve had more refined meals. I’ve had meals where the service was more memorable, or the decor was more unique, or where we were more comfortable. But this is the one meal where everything was just right (hence goldilocks). Spot-on flavors and textures that got better and better, a fine Vermouth, wine, and just the proper service that fake laughed at all my jokes. Its a solid contender for the best overall meal of the trip, and I made sure the talented female chef in the kitchen knew that.

As for the food, the mini hamburgers with oxtail didnt look like much but they were bursting with flavor. Goat cheese salad with nuts, fruits, greens and slightly fried cheese, absolutely brilliant for a simple goat cheese salad. Our new Olvera friend best tip.

The silky smooth Partridge Pate was sublime. I was still thinking about it next day on our spectacular Caminito del Rey hike. When the guide asked the group if anyone can recognize a bird she was pointing at, I said “partridge?” The truth is I have no idea what partridge looks like except in Pate form.

Then came of course another round of Huevos Trufados, something I couldnt get enough of on this trip. Eggs, potatoes, jamon, and probably truffle oil, but it works well here. Whats not to like. This might have been the most satisfying egg/potato dish of the trip.

But it was the larger dishes where the brilliance of the chef started to come through. A superb Chicken with Fideos, a strong contender for best of show. And an expertly cooked Lomo de Vaca that had more flavor than a steak specialist we visited in Granada.

When in Andalucia the first rule of thumb is get the Cheesecake and Torrija everywhere you go. Torrija is more like a bread pudding than the common description of French Toast. Here the soft cheesecake with peach was slightly better than the chocolate Torrija, but I would try both. Go!

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48 Hours in Cordoba

It took me roughly 48 seconds to realize that a day trip to Cordoba just wont do. Between the main monuments, patios, the various distinct neighborhoods, and nearby sites, even 48 hours felt like scratching the surface. The 22nd largest city in Spain has more UNESCO sites (4) than any city in the world. Remarkable considering you have cities like Paris and Rome in the mix.

The city is full of layers showcasing its rich Roman, Jewish, and Islamic past. For much of the middle ages, it was one of the most important cities in the world. But even some of the newer parts show plenty of charm. This is not a complete guide, but more or less what we did, arriving from Seville, with Granada next. Car as always, helps.

On the way from Seville you can stop at Castillo Almodovar del Rio, only 30 minutes from Cordoba. This is another Game of Thrones site, one of many in Spain. The castle is part Casterly Rock, but mainly Highgarden, the Tyrell’s house. Just dont make the mistake of coming within an hour before closing. If they show they close at 2:30 PM, it means they lock the gate at 1:30 PM. But even being on top, walking around the castle is pretty cool. Got plenty of nice drone shots.

Check into H10 Palacio Colomera. One of many new H10 properties sweeping the country. Beautiful building overlooking the picturesque Plaza de las Tendillas (busy during the day but quiet at night. Soundproof windows). Other than an unexpected 2am wake up call and some smelly bathroom issues that can probably be sorted out, this was a fine stay.

The surrounding area is a major shopping hub. Parking is advised to be reserved ahead at Parking Calle Sevilla 5. Just Google your drive to the parking garage to know what to expect (easy, but still), and pick up your much deserved snack at La Tranquera Solo Empanadas right near the garage.

I cant think of a better welcome to patio obsessed Cordoba than a visit to Palacio de Viana. A 15th century Palace where the spectacular patios and gardens didnt seem to end (I discovered my limits). 12 distinct gardens that will give you plenty of ideas for your spring planting. The palace was occupied by various families, last one being Marqueses de Viana until 1980, hence the name.

Explore what I call the upper Centro, the area around Jardines de la Merced. The atmospheric squares around Monumento a Manolete, and Cristo de los Faroles, and the stunning facade of Palacio de la Merced, a former convent. Time for a break at La Bendita Locura for Conservas, mini sandwiches and your 15th Tinto de Verano of the trip.

After a power nap, you are ready to be introduced to the old town and the Juderia. You’ll spent some quality time together the next 24 hours. Dinner CAN be at El Rincon De Carmen. While the food didnt exactly rock my world, this is one of the most popular… you guessed it.. patios in the area and my group enjoyed it overall. Try the Huevos Rotos con Jamón. Stronger recommendations coming up.

Start the next day with a morning tour of the Juderia with a Professional Jew (his words), Jorge Gershon of Cordoba Jewish Tours. Jorge is a walking encyclopedia, but also fun and energetic. You’ll get a better understanding of the impact of Maimonides, and the complex and rich history of Jews in Spain. Seeing one of the most important Synagogues in Spain, and Casa de Sefarad which usually comes with a timed surprise are just some of the highlights.

You’ll find beautiful patios all over the city, especially in early May during the festival, but the one area that’s particularly known for them is San Basilio. Even if none of the owners open their doors, its a pleasant neighborhood for a short stroll. But its approaching lunch time and you know who is getting hangry.

Lunch is just across the river since you’ll want to check out the Roman Bridge anyway. Take your time. Bar los Romerillos is open, but the kitchen doesnt open until 1:30. Thats how you know this spot is for locals. If you are early, hang tight and have your 20th Tinto de Verano. Then try the Cogollos Ajillo. If it looks like simple lettuce, it is. But trust me. Also try the Carrillada (pork cheek).

Its almost time for your 3:30 slot at the great Mezquita. This is one of the reasons you are in Cordoba. A Mosque-Cathedral masterpiece, and one of the most unique monuments in Spain. No pictures will properly prepare you, at least as far as the depth goes. Dont miss the Mihrab, which usually faces Mecca these days, but older mosques including this one, not so much. More of historical differences in opinion.

You need a good rest prior to this dinner. The brilliant Garum 2.1 will delight all your senses, with the aid of a rare breed waiter (assuming he’ll be there). Dont skip the Octopus with fried pig ears over creamy potato purée. And try some of the award winning tapas like the Salmorejo, and oxtail. Advanced reservations of course required.

Time to say goodbye, and hello to Granada or your next destination. If Granada than a slight detour to Jaén is worthwhile. The EVOO capital of Spain is quite the looker and well outside the tourist route. You got a castle towering right above it offering spectacular views. But the biggest case for Jaén is that it evolved into a food destination. Check out MangasVerdes. More on both Jaén and MangasVerdes to come.

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Pippali – The Curious Case of an Empty Room

Pippalinyc.com

I heard the stories of this phenomena in Flatiron, but had to witness it for myself. A great restaurant in NYC with an almost empty room. I’ve been eating in NYC long enough to run across such places on occasion, usually of the ethnic variety. Gazala’s in Hell’s Kitchen comes to mind. Being the only Druze in NYC (and possibly US), featured on Guy Fieri’s DDD, and a staple on the world famous EWZ tours didnt save Gazala before it closed a few years ago. Although there’s still a Gazala in UWS.

For much of our meal at Pippali, the room was completely empty. Two other occupied tables when we arrived, and two new groups showed up before we left. Possible explanations:

  1. Its Indian in Curry Hill. With a plethora of such places in the area, supply and demand can vary and may not be in its favor for a good portion of the time.
  2. The room is on the dark side. Its not the darkest room Ive seen, not even close. But dark enough for this kind of space to be slightly uncomfortable. Every time I got a glimpse of the kitchen I was envious of the amount of light there. Our particularly dark corner didnt help.
  3. Consistency issues? TBD. So far every single dish has been rock solid, and trusted sources on HungryOnion reported similar experiences.

First order of business in any Indian is sample any of the kebabs. A HO tip has led me to the Lucknowi Seekh Kababs and boy were they glorious. Not the dark skinny Seekhs you get elsewhere. To borrow a Seinfeld quote, “These were real and they’re spectacular”. Bright, hefty, and perfectly spiced. Add the accompanied green sauce midway for a nice change of pace, but no flavor enhancement needed.

The curries were quite respectable as well. A fine Butter Chicken, on the tomatoee side, and not overly creamy. Ludhiana Curry was even better. A Punjabi specialty that I havent seen before in NYC. It has the consistency of a simple curry with the flavor profile of a complex, herby one, with ultra tender chicken to boot.

I couldnt find any faults with the Chicken Dum Biryani, though I should have probably tried the goat or lamb instead in that order. Didnt bother with a picture. They all look more or less the same. The garlic Nun is as good as it gets in NYC. Not the stale ones you sometimes get elsewhere.

Pippali has the potential to be my favorite new accessible Indian on the island. With Saar disappointing last time, and Chote Nawab not strong enough to come back on a regular basis, this might just be it for takeout and dine-in. I just need the word to spread just enough to keep them in business.

Pippali
129 E 27th St (Flatiron)
Recommended Dishes: Lucknowi Seekh Kababs, Ludhiana Curry, Butter Chicken, Biryani

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La Cosmopolita – A Malaga Gem With a NY Connection

They really love their long names in Spain. Officially on Google its “La Cosmopolita Malagueña | Dani Carnero | Restaurant in Malaga”. After getting a strong worded letter from Google about the name and use of special characters they decided to shorten their next project to “La Cosmo Malagueña | Dani Carnero | Restaurant in Malaga”. Yes, these are two different restaurants in the heart of Malaga’s vivacious center, and I sampled one of them. The long one. It was so good, I just had to come back the next day. Well, sort of…

Malaga’s center will make you cancel all museums, castles, cathedral, anything involved walking uphill, and beach plans. Especially if this is your last leg of a long trip. Its a maze of cuteness. The architecture, the shops, the scene, the art, the fashion, will make you want to walk and rewalk the same streets just in case you missed something. Exploring other neighborhoods like Soho was interesting but felt like a waste of time for us tourists. Note to the Urban planners of the world: Unless you have a street named Houston, stop calling your neighborhoods Soho and Noho. Its getting old, and silly.

La Cosmopolita could not have been in a more touristy area. Its entirely surrounded by Tapas Bars and all sorts of other food options. For the casual diners who dont necessarily need to have the best Ajoblanco in the city, but just want to sit down somewhere and people watch, there are options galore. But for the rest of us freaks who derive much of the pleasure from months of research, you want to check out La Cosmopolita, and its Michelin approved sisters. While not every dish worked, the ones that did more than made up for it.

Lets start with the one clear dud. Crab omelette. Reviewers made this a must get, and since I love crab and everything egg, I just had to sample it. But it just didnt work for us, especially while smothered with that crab sauce. The profile flavors of fishy seafood and eggs in general should not be combined, unless you posses the creativity to make it work.

Moving on to the hits. Mollete de Atún, one of their specialties is like the best raw tuna sandwich you’ll ever find. Mollete translates to a muffin (like an English Muffin I suppose), but its actually IGP protected buns from Antequera. Its a glorious, well balanced combination. Another hit, perhaps the big one came in the form of steak tartare. Pure joy with every morsel. I dont recall eating tartare this good even in Paris recently.

The Tuna, Cadiz style, comes like a stew with onions was serviceable. Not something I’d order again, but I do like this style which we enjoyed numerous times on this trip. Payoya cheesecake to finish off was sensational. One of the better cheesecakes of the trip (we had quite a bit). Love that funk from the Payoya goat cheese. Didnt try more, since some of the us got sick and stayed in the hotel room. So it was an impromptu date between Mrs Z and I on our first evening in Malaga.

But that’s not the end of the story. This was by far our favorite staff of the trip. Not due to their over the top professionalism, but goofiness. From the waiter that decided to grab my phone to take a better picture (he didnt), to the British woman, and the chubby jokester who brings the Panna Cotta to the table next to us while shaking it to show how it jiggles, its the type of dysfunctional family you want every restaurant to have. By the end of all this (span of two days) the chubby waiter hugged me more than Mrs Z hugged me all year. TMI? Not really.

Why did I go there again the next day you may be asking. Not to eat. When Mr Chubby (we were having so much fun that we forgot to formally introduce each other) learned where I was from, he replied “Oh, our chef is from NYC. He used to own a restaurant called Da Andrea”, 😲😲😲. “but he’s not here today. Come back tomorrow”. If you’ve been following me for a long time, you’d know that Da Andrea used to be my favorite restaurant in NYC years ago. I spent birthdays there, among other functions. I was introduced to proper Italian food, and even some of my favorite wine at Da Andrea. But I never really knew the owners, who apparently sold Da Andrea not too long ago. Needless to say coming back the next day and conversing with the man, the legend was a trip highlight.

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This is Alhambra

The second most visited site in Spain after La Sagrada Familia is a bucket list item you didnt know you have. It’s the first thing you have to book when planning your Andalucia trip, and it’s the main reason visitors flock to Granada. When we visited in mid April, it was sold out through May according to our trusted guide Asier Garmendia.

No pictures, videos, stories, will properly prepare you for the Alhambra. You will mostly see pictures of what looks like a fortress from a distance. But what you’ll find inside is an entire city dating back to medieval Islam. The only such preserved city in the world that survived 800 years of earthquakes. Constructed by multiple generations of Sultans (Nasrid Dynasty) between 1238 and 1492, its the last Muslim stronghold to rule Spain.

Its essentially a combination of Moorish fortresses, palaces, courtyards, and gardens + one palace by a Spanish ruler, Emperor Charles V, for good measure. It’s something straight out of Game of Thrones. Although unlike other palaces and castles in the area (Seville’s Alcázar, Castillo Almodovar del Rio), Alhambra wasn’t featured in GOT. Other than some documentaries, Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown, and some old movies nothing was filmed here. Getting a permit must be pretty tough these days. It took a small miracle for GOT to get the OK from the Alcázar.

Allow 3-4 hours to see it so bring your favorite Granola bars from home, and/or those oily salty almonds you’ll see in markets and stores. It’s one site best appreciated with a guide, and Asier is your man. He will take care of the tickets, and he knows this complex inside out, besides possessing a wealth of information. You’ll see how math, poetry, water and time play such key roles with the architecture. You’ll hear stories that would make Telenovela producers take notes.

The gardens of Generalife alone are worth the price of admission. Ever heard of the Julio Iglesias Rose? You can find it here. Any Washington Irving fans here? I didnt think so. He was inspired to write Tales of the Alhambra while living inside it. People live inside Alhambra even today. Remarkable considering the 6000 guests who come here every day.

Simply put this place is something else. Unlike anything we’ve ever seen. It makes you wish you were a better photographer, or in my case, a photographer. Add it to the top half of the mental list. Somewhere between Český Krumlov and Buenos Aires.

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Blanca Paloma {Seville} – Game of Prawns

Once you cross the bridge into the colorful Triana neighborhood in Seville, you will find yourself glaring at the scene of Calle San Jacinto, before joining the scene. Close the street to car and horse traffic and you get a party. Yes, in Seville you need to also keep in mind horses, especially during the April Feria. That means declaring a designated horse poop spotter that leads the pack and warns the rest of the group. Preferably the one that had the least Tinto de Veranos for lunch. It’s V E R A N O! If you are Italophiles like us, you will struggle with the name big time.

Once you reach the end of the pedestrian area, continue walking one more block. I know, I know, youve already seen three churches today, a Game of Thrones site (Alcázar), walked 15 miles, and want to settle at one of the inviting joints on the Calle for another Tinto de Varena. But keep going. Deliciousness awaits.

Blanca Paloma, the restaurant, not the singer, is a Triana institution. Its the only restaurant I encountered in Seville that takes reservations that I couldn’t make. Even my hotel, the excellent El Rey Moro had difficulties getting someone to pick up the phone. But dont despair. Most just show up. And if you show up when they open for lunch or dinner, you can snag a table inside or out.

We were the first team to arrive (Amazing Race fans here) prior to opening. BTW, you can pretty much forget what Google tells you about opening times in Spain. Its more like a probability. Some places can open at that time, but with the kitchen actually opening 30-60 minutes later. Meaning you can just hang out and have a Tinto de Verona. But Blanca Paloma and its kitchen opened as promised at the American lunch time of 12:30. The locals eat lunch after 2pm, and dinner after 9pm. We gave it a shot, but gave up on day one.

Prior to my visit, I got a sense that anything and everything shrimp is the name of the game at BP, and I’m more convinced now. But I’m guessing you cant have many wrongs here no matter what you get. Eggplant stuffed with shrimp – Si please. Probably our top eggplant dish in eggplant loving Andalucia. Mini garlic shrimp burgers, immensely flavorful. And then you get the phenomenal Shrimp a la Plancha that I saw many eating all over Calle San Jacinto.

Crab Croquetas was yet more awesomeness. Unlike other Croquetas we had, there was flavor and texture here. One of the surprising items we’ve seen on various menus is Canelones, like the Spanish Cannelloni. This one stuffed with Iberian pork and Roquefort sauce. Exquisite stuff. The only thing that was average here was the cakes. They ran out of Torrija before opening somehow! Maybe one of the cooks had a tough breakup last night. South of Spain rule of thumb: Order Torrija and/or cheesecake for dessert everywhere.

Blanca Paloma also served one of the better Vermouths of the trip. After trying the Spanish stand-alone Vermouth at Txikito in NYC, I was worried that its not really for me, but throughout my trip I couldnt get enough of it.

After the meal, make sure to check out the market and some of the tile stores around the area. Like Ceramica Triana, and Ceramica Santas Justa y Rufina where the friendly owner speaks excellent English, and lets you break things!

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Ronda – The Accidental Romantic Tourist

Once in a blue moon you come across the perfect tourist town. It was in Segovia in 2019 where I realized what it takes to be one. Small, unique, food destination, plenty to do and see for tourists, and one you want to experience in the morning and evening where the tour buses leave. Ronda – check, check, check and then some.

The only thing missing that Segovia had was a local vibe in the evening, but that’s because of the clear separation between the touristy historic center and the rest of the city where the locals hang out. For us tourists, we couldnt get enough of the center including its tremendous food offerings. While most people come here on a day trip or stay overnight, by the time you finish reading this post hopefully you’ll see why it’s a mistake. You need at least two nights.

Ronda is the type of place you want to take your spouse on a surprise romantic getaway. Except unless you live in the south of Spain, its fairly hard to do. When we visited the excellent Ramos-Paul winery nearby, we met a couple from Jerez where the guy did exactly that to his wife and one month old daughter. A surprise day trip to Ronda on her birthday. The daughter wasnt amused.

Right near Puente Nuevo, the “new” bridge that took 34 years to built in 1793 after the previous bridge collapsed and killed 50, there’s this interesting mural. It shows the town’s unique landscape and quotes from various romantic travelers that found inspiration in Ronda. That did not include more recent names like Ernest Hemingway and Orson Wells who spent significant time here, and even more recently Michelle Obama. Ronda is so tiny and relatively unknown, when someone like Michelle Obama visits, people still talk about it 15 years later.

Exploring the majestic Puente Nuevo alone, from the top and bottom requires a few good hours. They recently reopened a path that leads closer to the bridge where you can get a close look at the chasm that divides the city. You need to wear a helmet for this one. The first trip where we had to wear a helmet, not once but twice. The other one being an hour away at the eyepopping Caminito del Rey hike. More on that on another day.

But the main reason to stay an extra night or three is the area, Serrania de Ronda, which rivals Tuscany as perhaps the most beautiful region we’ve ever seen. Just north of Ronda you got a wine region that produces surprisingly robust reds, judging from our Ramos-Paul visit. The wines are still affordable because this is not Rioja.

10 minutes out you have the Reservatauro Ronda, a horse and bull farm where you can learn about the rich history of Ronda bull fighting and horse breeding. Further out you have another majestic town, Setenil de las Bodegas where houses are built into the cliffs. And then you have other whitewashed towns like beautiful Olvera not far away. I already mentioned the infamous Caminito an hour away. Plenty to do and see here if you have a few days. Ronda complements the large city filled Andalucian itinerary very well.

Make sure to spend quality time in both the center and old town, the two distinct neighborhoods on both sides of the bridge. Dont dwell too much on individual attractions as every other blog tells you. See the bullring if you must, the second oldest in Spain after Seville, and the oldest constructed entirely of stone. You can also get a good view of it from the rooftop of Hotel Catalonia. Stay at the Parador if you must for the incredible views and to finally say “I stayed at the Parador in Ronda” at cocktail parties. Though between us friends, not the most comfortable hotel.

Dining in Ronda requires its own dedicated blog posts. Pound for pound Ronda may be the top food destination in Andalucía for its size. Between the amazing Casa Mateos, the legendary El Lechuguita, and Benito Gómez’s Tragatá, there’s your 2-3 days of heavenly eating right there. We managed two of the three. Every conversation about food with a local results in “Oh you have to go to Tragatá and Casa Mateos”. One even helped us with what to order at the latter. Spoiler alert: Sickest goat cheese salad ever.

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The 15 Best Things we Ate in Spain (Reblog)

Leaving for a few weeks, so leaving an oldie but goodie….

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The Thai Diner Survival Guide

Why should you go?

Thai Diner (aka Uncle Boons 2.0) is one of the most popular if not the most poplar Thai restaurant in NYC that tourists generally dont know about. Dont worry locals, I’m not gonna change that as I dont have that kind of reach. But sharing is caring. One way you can check whether a place is touristy is simply by looking at Trip Advisor reviews compared to the more local Yelp, and Google. A whopping 26 reviews compared to 871 (Yelp), and 1569 (Google). Thats as local as it gets for a Manhattan establishment.

It took me a few visits to warm up to Uncle Boons, but I’m beginning to like Thai Diner even more. The space is more welcoming, and more comfortable (emphasis on more than the predecessor which was fairly uncomfortable). Love the decor, the Pure Thai Cookhouse-like Thai music. I never understood why so many ethnic places play American music. Who wants to listen to Sweet Caroline while munching on Szechuan food. Well, according to Trevor Noah its every single white person, but you know what I mean.

When should you go?

Its always busy, and waits are inevitable. They take a very limited number of reservations, so you can pretty much forget about reserving. But that just means you have a better shot at getting a table than popular places that do take full reservations. I call it the Via Carotta effect. If you are like us and have no problem combining lunch and dinner, than 4pm is your best bet. Even on Sundays there was no line at 4. By 6pm you are well fed and you are good for the rest of the day. Otherwise, come earlier, put your name down, and play tourist in NoLita/Little Italy/Chinatown.

What should you eat?

Its a smart mix of creative and classic. Every meal for many of us starts with the sick Disco Fries and ends with the Coconut Sundae. The latter is a masterpiece that includes candied peanuts, coconut gelato, coconut caramel, and to add much needed coconut flavor, toasted coconut. Another must is the crab fried rice. The Khao Soi is very solid but messy to share if more than two. The Turmeric Roti with the curry dip is terrific, as well as the Phat See Ew with fried chicken (some prefer the other chicken option, but I like the fried). The only dish I’d avoid is the Green Curry with braised beef. Sounds great, but large chunks of meh quality beef isnt doing it for me.

Who should you bring?

Ok, this survival guide is getting ridiculous Ziggy. But hear me out. This is not your typical Thai eatery in NYC where I normally have to do some begging for a little bit of heat. And while its not exactly “Thai spicy”, BYOB (Bring your own Bounty) like Ugly Baby, its bald flavors arent for everyone. Since the spoiled Mrs Z doesnt always remember the names of places we visit, I have to refer to them in other ways. Thai Diner is the “coughing place” after a memorable spicy coughing attack one time. Meaning its not the place for your mother in law’s 70’s bday celebration. Take adventurous eaters that appreciate good food and can handle a bit of heat.

What about Brunch?

Yes, please. This is one of the areas that sets Thai Diner apart, and where the creativity shines. Its a popular Brunch option for many, and one of the reasons is the outstanding, hurt so good, egg sandwich. Its wrapped in Roti that absorbs much heat so its a bit difficult to hold with bare hands, but its worth it. Thai flavors mixed with eggs, even in the morning is like magic. The Thai Tea Babka French Toast is popular as well.

What should I wear?

Khakis, loose clothing, funeral sunglasses for those not used to bald flavors.

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Txikito – Just Basque a Move

Whenever someone asks for Spanish Tapas recommendations, if its not in Chelsea it doesn’t enter my mind. Just like Thai restaurants in Hell’s Kitchen, there are mysterious forces that attract some of the top Spanish talents to the neighborhood. As you may know, we are fans of Z-List long timer Tia Pol, but you also got the excellent Salinas, Mercado Little Spain, Casa Dani, El Quijote, Socarrat, and some others. Txikito, smack in the middle of them all, might just be the most important of the bunch.

A 15 y/o in super competitive NYC is approaching legend territory. It’s one of those places Ive been wanting to try for years, but somehow other mysterious forces prevented it, until an impromptu visit the other day. Impromptu and popular places as such means some luck involved. With my Islanders finally winning an important game the other day, and Mrs Z asking me to buy a lottery ticket now that the jackpot is over a Billion (as if 900 mil is pocket change), I might actually do just that.

Two open bar seats had our names on it, though we were asked not to linger for more than two hours. Not only perfectly fine with us, but I had another reason to leave before it got dark. I was sporting new sunglasses and left my regular glasses in the car. We were reminiscing about our California road trip ages ago where I lost my glasses somewhere off route 1 and had to wear prescription sunglasses for the last two days of the trip. I kid you not, the same evening I lost them we heard “I wear my sunglasses at night” on the radio. Yes, it was radio times.

Txikito is Basque, but as with so many ethnic places trying to introduce us to a specific cuisine, it feels more Spanish than Basque. Other than some of the famed Pinxos like Gilda (a skinny homage to Rita Hayworth), the famous Basque cheesecake, and the occasional very Basque mammoth Turbot, my eye didnt spy much Basque. It spied a Russian salad, found all over Spain for some reason. But dont get me wrong, I like this menu. Like a lot…

I dont recall ever eating Octopus Carpaccio this good. A place just outside Taormina’s (Sicily) old town comes to mind but thats about it. Silky smooth buttery perfection. A signature thats been on the menu since 2008. Another winner was a hearty plate of Spanish white beans with shrimp and mussels. The accompanied bread helped us scarpetta the heck out of it.

The expertly cooked Cochinnilo (suckling pig) was exactly as expected. Just crispy enough outside and supremely tender and flavorful inside. Its an ugly looking dish until you start digging in. I care for you readers, just not to the point of videotaping everything like other influencers. But cutting this in slow mo is a droolworthy exercise. Love the Frisée addition but wish it came with another item like potatoes.

The only thing I didnt care for was the pricy white Asparagus special with scallops. Initial bites were good but that one-tone sweetness got boring in a hurry. La Viña-esque cheesecake was satisfying. Esque means “we tried” here, although its been a few years since our visit to La Viña, San Sebastian where the cake was invented. Salinas nearby also serves a fine version.

Other than me still trying to figure out whether I like standalone Spanish red Vermouth, I think I covered everything. Nice atmosphere, smart decor. Although I didnt get a very good look as putting my sunglasses was like announcing “weirdo at seat 12” to the staff. I dont think I’ll wait another 15 years to Basque another move as I do want to try the rice dish and the rest of the menu. Maybe just stay away from the specials

Txikito
240 9th Ave (Chelsea)
Recommended Dishes: Octopus Carpaccio, Beans with shrimp and mussels, Cochinnilo, Cheesecake

Categories: Chelsea, New York City | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

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