I’m entitled to one lazy post per quarter, where I just show you some shaky hand pictures and call it a day. Hey, I dont make the rules. But I might as well take this opportunity to inform you that Malaga is stunning. We expected an average Spanish metropolitan with the usual array of historic sites. But instead we got a picturesque historic center that made us cancel all the historic sites we planned.
Winding, narrow streets full of monuments and striking architecture. Its a giant maze of cuteness (as much as I dislike using the word). Whenever we tried to see other areas like SoHo (dont get me started again), Malaga Park and port area, we were drawn back to the historic area like a magnet. Make sure to see the eye popping Mercado Central de Atarazanas as well. Earlier in the morning preferably as it can get crowded during lunch time.
Colomares Castle nearby is good for what it is. A good way to spend an hour or so for selfies watching people doing selfies. Its a unique little place that can be combined with Mijas. Or skip both if you are pressed for time and spend more time in Malaga. The one thing I wouldnt skip however is Caminito del Rey. One of the most spectacular, terrifying but very doable hikes you’ll ever encounter. More on that on another post.
Highly recommend the H10 Croma hotel. Best H10 so far that ticks all the boxes. I already mentioned the terrific La Cosmopolita, one of three Dani Carnero establishments, with the head chef being the former owner of Da Andrea in NYC. Dont have any other food recommendations, but the food scene seems promising. Add Malaga to the mental bucket list.
Still trying to keep the list at 30. 4 in, 4 out this time. I tried to include the excellent Ulivo and a few others but I got too many such places especially Italian. Leitao is the most exciting new find this year, but the rest are not too shabby, and not exactly new discoveries.
Out
Danji – Closed for too long due to fire. Not sure when and if it will reopen Cull and Pistol – “So crowded no one goes there anymore” – Chelsea Market in a nutshell today Somtum Der – Nothing wrong with SD. Just freshening up the list with new(er) Thai Jun-Men Ramen – No longer open for lunch on weekdays so havent been in a while.
I was warned that Granada isnt particularly exciting when it comes to food. So I took it as a challenge. Whether I succeeded or not, it’s debatable. After our first night, a major dud well outside the tourist route, it looked like a fail. But things got surprisingly better in the tourist filled areas. The glaring fail was not so much the dud, but not coming up with a slam dunk as every other city in Andalucía accomplished, including tiny Jaen and Ronda. So more of a testament to the other meals. But these four should still entertain your taste buds plenty.
La Botillería
A long day in the Alhambra requires a serviceable meal on a pleasant shaded sidewalk. This was more than serviceable. Good egg dishes like the one with mushrooms and potato, or eggs with fava beans and Jamon. A more elaborate Flamenquín than usual (we are not fans overall but you need to try it somewhere). The creamy risotto is a signature here and I can see why, though we were more impressed by the free paella we got with the excellent drinks.
Bar Los Diamantes
Granada is a good place to wing it, and places like Bar Los Diamantes makes it easy to do. Its a local institution that got pretty touristy the last few years. But more importantly its a respectable fast casual fried seafood specialist. A big plus is that its open early in case you want to give your tired tourist body a break one day and skip another late meal. The light and fresh fried seafood mix didnt disappoint. But add the fine Galician octopus and Gambas al Ajillo to the mix to complete this one. Come earlier to avoid the line, even though it moves fast. Communal tables add to the joy.
El Trillo
If you’ve been following me for more than 5 minutes you know that I never recommend places strictly for views, and this post is no exception. But a trip to Granada feels incomplete without a meal at a “Carmen” house overlooking Alhambra. At El Trillo, you have that, along with the option of a cozy garden over the sunnier terrace. And the food is not too shabby.
Tuna, Cadiz style, stewed with onions and potatoes was better than a similar dish we had at a more renowned place. Try some of the rice dishes, like the risotto with wild boar and mushroom, or the sensational squid ink rice with chunks of octopus hiding inside. Grilled Turbot, not quite Getaria style (if you know, you know) is expertly cooked. The only thing that didnt impress us was dessert, so hopefully you will have better luck.
Oliver
A Bourdain approved legend in tourist central that’s surprisingly feels very local. Started as a small bar before becoming a full blown dining destination, all by the same Oliver family. Start like a local with a top grade Jamon. Tomato with burrata and pesto, simple and yet very satisfying. Succulent shrimp with garlic, and even better grilled squid. People flock here for the Paellas, one of the specialties. Finish with the superb cheesecake.
Solid Ramen – check (Ohkami Ramen). Thai – check (Chang Noi Thai). Filipino – check (Phil-Am Kusina). Chinese – work in progress. Omakase – finally! Not that I’ve been holding my breath. But I had to do a triple take when I noticed Ichi on an awkward corner of Amboy while standing on a red light. Omakase is the last thing I expected to see there, though there’s no corner on this island where one would expect it. Refreshing to say the least, especially considering just about every opening lately is Turkish. This island needs Turkish like I need a stone in my shoe.
I’ve never been this excited about eating on the island. Come to think of it, I’ve never really been excited, period. Not to take away anything from many of the places we enjoy like the above mentioned and all the wonderful Sri Lankan. Its just that after 25 years of living here, we’ve been programmed to curb our enthusiasm. But this is Omakase!
Jimmy Wong, the owner, was one of three capable hands behind the counter. He first tested the waters of Long Island before opening his second location on Staten Island three months ago. I guess he figured Manhattan needs another Omakase like we need shingles (last one, I promise). Whether it will work here, I’m very curious to find out. There’s practically zero marketing with Ichi. An ambitious and expensive project to rely on red lights and word of mouth, but I truly hope it works.
You got 10 counter seats, three time slots (4, 6, 8), and ample parking about a block away. A fun, energetic hostess will loosen you up if needed. As with many of the high end Japanese in NYC, fish arrives daily from Japan. I believe the price was $115 p/p for 16 courses. In Staten Island its a special occasion type. In Manhattan, its Wednesday.
Omakase literally means “I leave the details up to you”, but you do get a sense of the kind of details to expect. Some crafty appetizers followed by a bunch of premium grade fish. But there were some surprises. Like the best Miso soup you will ever have that comes with mushrooms and a succulent scallop. Or the monkfish liver that comes with a syringe. And there was a jewelry box containing a truffle infused tuna tartare crispy roll on top of popcorn.
The “main” fish courses were the good, the great, and the dud. The lone dud was a mushy shrimp. Unless I’m on the coast of Sicily or some parts of Puglia munching on red shrimp, I’m not a fan of raw shrimp to begin with. The rest of the items especially the Uni, Scallop, Tuna Belly, King Salmon were superb or close.
As one would expect from a pricy Omakase, there were plenty of expensive ingredients like truffles, caviar, uni, but still letting the fish shine. The Sake was as exceptional as it gets from someone who doesnt drink Sake often. And the entire experience was memorable. Welcome to the neighborhood Ichi. Even though I cant afford you more than once or twice a year.
So glad I didnt listen to the naysayers. Skip it, too crowded, it attracts like a bazillion thousand people, horse poop everywhere, you wont be able to get reservations. The last one almost made me reconsider and change plans. While I obviously cant compare this week to any other time, other than assume there are less people, the crowds for this New Yorker were not nearly as bad. Here’s everything you need to know about the Feria. Well, almost everything.
First, add it to the mental bucket list. A year ago I never even heard of this. But I feel like everyone should experience it at least once. Simply put, its one of the coolest things we’ve ever seen. Its Easter in New Orleans on crack. A week of celebrations, colors, horses, and a whole lot of beautiful people. Hence, we felt like we belonged.
The basics. Its a full week, normally in April (could be May in 2025). Google for the exact dates. Its held in an area well outside the city center so you can control how much Feria you want to have. At the Feria its essentially a huge scene, blocks and blocks of people celebrating inside their private “Casetas”, striped tents, where they drink and dance for much of the afternoon and night. Not to mention the parade of horses and carriages that brings the participants. And with everyone dressed in flamenco attire you essentially get the world’s largest free fashion show.
Do Plaza de España, preferably on Sunday afternoon. Even if you dont set foot at the Feria, just being in Seville that week is pretty cool. With so many well dressed participants flocking to Plaza de España, especially on the weekend after the fair start, its like being in a movie set
As for how to get there. Buses frequently run just outside Prado de San Sebastián and back. I believe there are other bus options but this is the most convenient in the center as of this writing. Its not free, but quite cheap at around a one euro p/p
Dont go in the morning. In Spain the later the better. In the early morning you’ll see Feria participants arriving back from a night full of partying. There’s not a whole lot going on there prior to noon, except cleanup.
There are public Casetas. But they are, well, public, so not nearly as attractive as the private ones. But you at least you can get a drink, and maybe some atmosphere. Try Rebujito, the official drink of the fair invented in 1985. You pay for a small pitcher.
As fun as it is you may suffer from sensory overload after a couple of hours. Go at around 5-6, before dinner. But you’ll see much of the city transform and people dressed up everywhere. One of many reasons to visit Andalucía.
I dont believe that a PhD in Mathematics is enough to figure out the exact amount of syrup required on any given pancakes. How often do we put too little, too much, way too little, way too much, especially if its something like Trader’s Joe’s frozen blueberry pancakes. And then there’s the butter. How much is enough. Its 2024, and I have plenty of life challenges on the plate.
And what kind of Syrup anyway. My Aunt Jemima daughters would rebel when we served anything else. For years we would put both Aunt Jemima and Maple syrup on the table. Until they both moved out, and we gradually got rid of AJ. But turns out, they eventually move back in, so we met them halfway. Yes to Nutella (especially during Matzoh season), but no to Aunt Jemima.
Gothamist
Turns out someone on the west coast figured it all out. In 2010 the first Breakfast by Salt’s Cure opened in LA, and the lines quickly followed. “Breakfast” is the spinoff to Salt’s Cure (sugar?), a popular LA brunch spot hailed for the item that was essentially spun off, the Oatmeal Griddle Cake. Chris Phelps, the brain behind this has been perfecting these “pancakes” since age two.
As you can see, these pancakes wont win any beauty awards. Maybe miss congeniality. But they are as good as any pancakes you’ll ever have. And they certainly dont need syrup. In fact its a “no syrup for you” policy in all four locations (two in LA, two in NYC). Phelp’s Oatmeal mix, available for purchase, includes the perfect amount of cinnamon molasses. Not too sweet at all.
I’ve been passing through the lines at the West Village location for many months now. Coming at 9 am on a Sunday meant a 10-15 min wait. By 10 am it was more like 30 mins. Once inside you order and pay at the counter, and wait for them at your table. You have the option of various flavors like banana and blueberry. I was partial to the Banana with nuts, while the rest of the family preferred the original.
The combos add eggs and sausages to the mix, but even those items are not your typical diner variety. The eggs whether soft scrambled runny, sunny or over, are perfect. With regular pancakes and a dollop of syrup, eggs usually need to be completely separated. The sausages are more like thin eastern European cutlets. Not a bad thing. I went for the pork, but there’s also chicken and chickpeas (like a falafel cutlet I suppose). The saltiness of the sausages compensate for the lack on the eggs.
While tourists, rightfully so, wait for the pancakes at Clinton St Bakery, locals these days go to Salt’s Cure. While the pancakes at CSB are indeed good, I think much of the flavor comes from their warm Maple Butter, and the pancakes arent really as unique as Salt’s Cure. According to the hard working EWZ historians this is my first (and probably last) Breakfast post. Which means its an obvious Go!
A long weekend in Montreal, after an 8 year hiatus produced a tail of two eating days, and one painful reminder. Never trust hotel employees for food recommendations. Locals, especially in large cosmopolitan cities, may not be familiar with their own food scene. But they are trained to answer this question based on various factors such as “other tourists like it”, and will often sound very convincing. After a mediocre first day where I was winging it with an assist from an overzealous employee, the planned second day produced much better results. While this day is not exactly how my day went, its mostly based on it.
Start the day with a Montreal bagel from one of the institutions in Mile End, St-Viateur or Fairmont. Just try to forget everything you know about NYC bagels and keep an open mind. Its really nothing like it, and comparing them is like comparing apples to toasters. They may seem bland and sweet, but you might appreciate the light and airy texture. Try the sesame with cream cheese. Do you know what they call cream cheese in Spain? Philadelphia! Just the kind of unrelated tidbit you’ll only see on EWZ, but very useful in cocktail parties.
The one time I tried both of the institutions, I got luckier with St-Viateur over Fairmont as the former was right out of the oven. But you cant go wrong here. The one big positive about this bagel is that you dont need to spread a pound of cream cheese to be able to taste the cream cheese. Conveniently right next to Fairmont, you can get good coffee at Caffé Grazie-Mille where regulars enjoy telling the owner about the daily pictures they get from ex girlfriends.
The cool thing about these bagels is that you dont need a nap now and you can resume eating within hours. And what’s a better place to do it than Jean Talon Market. This is just a spectacular market, especially in August when its corn season. Peaches and Cream corn will be the sweetest corn you will ever have. But you will encounter all sorts of worldly artisanal items throughout the market. And if you never had ground cherries before, this is a good time to try if in season.
It’s lunch time and I will cheat for once and give you options. Its my blog and I’ll cheat when and how I want to. Option one: The Katz’s of the north, Schwartz. Like bagels, even if you are very familiar with NYC style Pastrami you should try this. First, its an institution. Second, the smoked meat is pretty darn good, especially if you get it on the fatty side. Third, you can sample Poutine here too.
Lunch option two: Portuguese Chicken. Its not as popular as smoked meat among tourists and guide books, but its arguably a better option IMO. If you live in NYC, you can find really good Pastrami and even Montreal smoked meat (Mile End in Brooklyn), but its very hard to find fast casual Portuguese chicken grills like Ma Poule Mouillée for example. The chicken is perfect in every way. Crispy and juicy in all the right places, and brushed with that salty, spicy Peri Peri that even makes the fries taste amazing. You also got Pastel de Nata, and of course Poutine.
Its finally nap time. Do you nap on vacation, or even at home? If yes, I’m jealous. Last time I took a nap was one of the best moments of life. It ranks somewhere between the birth of my second, and the day Mrs Z lost her voice. But first, if you are staying at the old town, or just visiting, pop into Cafeterra for excellent berry topped pastries and solid coffee. Opened fairly recently by a Ukrainian couple.
That leaves 4-5 hours till the highly anticipated dinner at Bouillon Bilk. The food scene here is quite vast and that’s what draws me to this city. Much of the rest is not wildly different than NYC. There are options galore here, but 13 year old Bouillon Bilk is a classic in the making. While prices have increased substantially since my first visit 8 years ago, its still affordable compared to NYC once you factor CAD to USD conversation. The smart, ingredient driven 5 courser is $100 CAD currently. And the a la carte menu isnt terribly expensive. Not a bad day, eh?
There’s something to be said about Ronda that made her the first place I blogged about after we got back from Andalucia. I already sang her praises in any way I could with my limited vocabulary. Its one of those perfect tourist towns that check all the boxes as far as food, beauty, uniqueness, and size go. Not to mention the Tuscan-like surrounding area.
Normally when tourists arrive at such places, they check into the hotel (perhaps the Parador or Catalonia in this case), wash, relax, and marvel at the mesmerizing views which Ronda offers. Thats what normal people do. Me? I dropped everyone and everything, battled tourist traffic while parking the car, and speed walked the 10 minutes straight to Casa Mateos to reserve for tomorrow. The last order of business in the Ronda plan.
Guiarepsol
Pound for pound Ronda was our top food city, although our two meals there could not have been more different (the other, the legendary and astonishingly cheap El Lechuguita). But I started having my doubts about Casa Mateos when the second local we met told us we absolutely must go to Tragatá, Benito Gómez’s more affordable project after two Michelin Bardal. The saving grace was when the second local, while playing chess with my friend in Olvera, enthusiastically told us about his other favorite, Casa Mateos. Crisis averted. He even helped us with what to order.
In the two weeks of wining and dining all over Andalucia, I’ve had more refined meals. I’ve had meals where the service was more memorable, or the decor was more unique, or where we were more comfortable. But this is the one meal where everything was just right (hence goldilocks). Spot-on flavors and textures that got better and better, a fine Vermouth, wine, and just the proper service that fake laughed at all my jokes. Its a solid contender for the best overall meal of the trip, and I made sure the talented female chef in the kitchen knew that.
As for the food, the mini hamburgers with oxtail didnt look like much but they were bursting with flavor. Goat cheese salad with nuts, fruits, greens and slightly fried cheese, absolutely brilliant for a simple goat cheese salad. Our new Olvera friend best tip.
The silky smooth Partridge Pate was sublime. I was still thinking about it next day on our spectacular Caminito del Rey hike. When the guide asked the group if anyone can recognize a bird she was pointing at, I said “partridge?” The truth is I have no idea what partridge looks like except in Pate form.
Then came of course another round of Huevos Trufados, something I couldnt get enough of on this trip. Eggs, potatoes, jamon, and probably truffle oil, but it works well here. Whats not to like. This might have been the most satisfying egg/potato dish of the trip.
But it was the larger dishes where the brilliance of the chef started to come through. A superb Chicken with Fideos, a strong contender for best of show. And an expertly cooked Lomo de Vaca that had more flavor than a steak specialist we visited in Granada.
When in Andalucia the first rule of thumb is get the Cheesecake and Torrija everywhere you go. Torrija is more like a bread pudding than the common description of French Toast. Here the soft cheesecake with peach was slightly better than the chocolate Torrija, but I would try both. Go!
It took me roughly 48 seconds to realize that a day trip to Cordoba just wont do. Between the main monuments, patios, the various distinct neighborhoods, and nearby sites, even 48 hours felt like scratching the surface. The 22nd largest city in Spain has more UNESCO sites (4) than any city in the world. Remarkable considering you have cities like Paris and Rome in the mix.
The city is full of layers showcasing its rich Roman, Jewish, and Islamic past. For much of the middle ages, it was one of the most important cities in the world. But even some of the newer parts show plenty of charm. This is not a complete guide, but more or less what we did, arriving from Seville, with Granada next. Car as always, helps.
On the way from Seville you can stop at Castillo Almodovar del Rio, only 30 minutes from Cordoba. This is another Game of Thrones site, one of many in Spain. The castle is part Casterly Rock, but mainly Highgarden, the Tyrell’s house. Just dont make the mistake of coming within an hour before closing. If they show they close at 2:30 PM, it means they lock the gate at 1:30 PM. But even being on top, walking around the castle is pretty cool. Got plenty of nice drone shots.
Check into H10 Palacio Colomera. One of many new H10 properties sweeping the country. Beautiful building overlooking the picturesque Plaza de las Tendillas (busy during the day but quiet at night. Soundproof windows). Other than an unexpected 2am wake up call and some smelly bathroom issues that can probably be sorted out, this was a fine stay.
The surrounding area is a major shopping hub. Parking is advised to be reserved ahead at Parking Calle Sevilla 5. Just Google your drive to the parking garage to know what to expect (easy, but still), and pick up your much deserved snack at La Tranquera Solo Empanadas right near the garage.
I cant think of a better welcome to patio obsessed Cordoba than a visit to Palacio de Viana. A 15th century Palace where the spectacular patios and gardens didnt seem to end (I discovered my limits). 12 distinct gardens that will give you plenty of ideas for your spring planting. The palace was occupied by various families, last one being Marqueses de Viana until 1980, hence the name.
Explore what I call the upper Centro, the area around Jardines de la Merced. The atmospheric squares around Monumento a Manolete, and Cristo de los Faroles, and the stunning facade of Palacio de la Merced, a former convent. Time for a break at La Bendita Locura for Conservas, mini sandwiches and your 15th Tinto de Verano of the trip.
After a power nap, you are ready to be introduced to the old town and the Juderia. You’ll spent some quality time together the next 24 hours. Dinner CAN be at El Rincon De Carmen. While the food didnt exactly rock my world, this is one of the most popular… you guessed it.. patios in the area and my group enjoyed it overall. Try the Huevos Rotos con Jamón. Stronger recommendations coming up.
Start the next day with a morning tour of the Juderia with a Professional Jew (his words), Jorge Gershon of Cordoba Jewish Tours. Jorge is a walking encyclopedia, but also fun and energetic. You’ll get a better understanding of the impact of Maimonides, and the complex and rich history of Jews in Spain. Seeing one of the most important Synagogues in Spain, and Casa de Sefarad which usually comes with a timed surprise are just some of the highlights.
You’ll find beautiful patios all over the city, especially in early May during the festival, but the one area that’s particularly known for them is San Basilio. Even if none of the owners open their doors, its a pleasant neighborhood for a short stroll. But its approaching lunch time and you know who is getting hangry.
Lunch is just across the river since you’ll want to check out the Roman Bridge anyway. Take your time. Bar los Romerillos is open, but the kitchen doesnt open until 1:30. Thats how you know this spot is for locals. If you are early, hang tight and have your 20th Tinto de Verano. Then try the Cogollos Ajillo. If it looks like simple lettuce, it is. But trust me. Also try the Carrillada (pork cheek).
Its almost time for your 3:30 slot at the great Mezquita. This is one of the reasons you are in Cordoba. A Mosque-Cathedral masterpiece, and one of the most unique monuments in Spain. No pictures will properly prepare you, at least as far as the depth goes. Dont miss the Mihrab, which usually faces Mecca these days, but older mosques including this one, not so much. More of historical differences in opinion.
You need a good rest prior to this dinner. The brilliant Garum 2.1 will delight all your senses, with the aid of a rare breed waiter (assuming he’ll be there). Dont skip the Octopus with fried pig ears over creamy potato purée. And try some of the award winning tapas like the Salmorejo, and oxtail. Advanced reservations of course required.
Time to say goodbye, and hello to Granada or your next destination. If Granada than a slight detour to Jaén is worthwhile. The EVOO capital of Spain is quite the looker and well outside the tourist route. You got a castle towering right above it offering spectacular views. But the biggest case for Jaén is that it evolved into a food destination. Check out MangasVerdes. More on both Jaén and MangasVerdes to come.
I heard the stories of this phenomena in Flatiron, but had to witness it for myself. A great restaurant in NYC with an almost empty room. I’ve been eating in NYC long enough to run across such places on occasion, usually of the ethnic variety. Gazala’s in Hell’s Kitchen comes to mind. Being the only Druze in NYC (and possibly US), featured on Guy Fieri’s DDD, and a staple on the world famous EWZ tours didnt save Gazala before it closed a few years ago. Although there’s still a Gazala in UWS.
For much of our meal at Pippali, the room was completely empty. Two other occupied tables when we arrived, and two new groups showed up before we left. Possible explanations:
Its Indian in Curry Hill. With a plethora of such places in the area, supply and demand can vary and may not be in its favor for a good portion of the time.
The room is on the dark side. Its not the darkest room Ive seen, not even close. But dark enough for this kind of space to be slightly uncomfortable. Every time I got a glimpse of the kitchen I was envious of the amount of light there. Our particularly dark corner didnt help.
Consistency issues? TBD. So far every single dish has been rock solid, and trusted sources on HungryOnion reported similar experiences.
First order of business in any Indian is sample any of the kebabs. A HO tip has led me to the Lucknowi Seekh Kababs and boy were they glorious. Not the dark skinny Seekhs you get elsewhere. To borrow a Seinfeld quote, “These were real and they’re spectacular”. Bright, hefty, and perfectly spiced. Add the accompanied green sauce midway for a nice change of pace, but no flavor enhancement needed.
The curries were quite respectable as well. A fine Butter Chicken, on the tomatoee side, and not overly creamy. Ludhiana Curry was even better. A Punjabi specialty that I havent seen before in NYC. It has the consistency of a simple curry with the flavor profile of a complex, herby one, with ultra tender chicken to boot.
I couldnt find any faults with the Chicken Dum Biryani, though I should have probably tried the goat or lamb instead in that order. Didnt bother with a picture. They all look more or less the same. The garlic Nun is as good as it gets in NYC. Not the stale ones you sometimes get elsewhere.
Pippali has the potential to be my favorite new accessible Indian on the island. With Saar disappointing last time, and Chote Nawab not strong enough to come back on a regular basis, this might just be it for takeout and dine-in. I just need the word to spread just enough to keep them in business.
Pippali 129 E 27th St (Flatiron) Recommended Dishes: Lucknowi Seekh Kababs, Ludhiana Curry, Butter Chicken, Biryani
Eating With Ziggy 