West Village

Da Toscano Porchetta Shop – Gem Hidden in Plain Sight

Posted on September 30, 2025 by Ziggy
Da Toscano

First, time to make another change to the blog. Its been about 13 incredible years, and food blogs are slowly becoming obsolete, replaced by other forms of social media. I do want to keep it going, but I just dont have the same amount of time and energy. From now on, my NYC blog posts will be short, sweet, and to the point, writing mostly about the food.

Da Toscano Porchetta Shop, located in, you guessed it, Da Toscana, a popular restaurant in the West Village. “Popular? Never heard of it, Ziggy”. Its one of those quiet, those in the know fame. We had a memorable meal there when they opened, and I figured I’ll blog about it when I’ll have a bigger meal. But that day never came. Popularity took off and its hard to reserve these days.

While Da Toscano open for dinner only these days, you can enjoy the the Porchetta sandwiches and more at the bar or takeout during lunchtime 4 days a week. The opening hours on Google and elsewhere confuse many to believe they are open for lunch, but its really just for the sandwiches. This is the follow-up to their Porchetta shop in Charleston, one of four businesses they have there.

I tried the original Porchetta sandwich. San Gennaro feast in my mouth is one way to put it. A whole hog is roasted with rosemary and fennel for 8 hours. They then slice it and let the slices swim with its juices, before serving it with Salsa Verde, Crackling, and Aged Provolone between fluffy Focaccia that hold their own. The result is a glorious blend with the tender meat reigning supreme. Some of the juiciest and tastiest Porchetta I’ve ever had.

Conclusion: New Yorkers are spending tons of hours waiting for subpar social media hyped sandwiches all over the city. Sometimes the good stuff can be found at the most unexpected places by highly talented chefs. Its like having an omelette at a popular diner vs a chef’s joint like Anton’s who studied the heck out of making the perfect one.

PS. Couldnt take a good picture. Lighting, shaky hands, the drooling, all of the above. The pictures are courtesy of Da Toscano

24 Minetta Ln, West Village

Da Toscano

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Balaboosta – Oldie Still Goodie

Posted on October 5, 2024 by Ziggy

Balaboosta is an old Yiddish term for the perfect housewife. A domestically gifted mother that feeds the family with one hand, balances house finances with the other, while teaching Krav Maga in her spare time between writing cookbooks. Balaboosta’s children call her twice a day. They would prefer to call more but her busy schedule especially on book signing days make it difficult. That’s the meaning behind the name of a West Village institution led by one of those fearless women.

If you’ve been following me for at least 7 years you’d probably know about my on and off love affair with this housewife. I was a fan until I started cheating on her with her younger, sexier sister, Bar Bolonat. In 2017 I even wrote that the old Balaboosta needed a boosta shot. Less than a year later it happened in a way no one anticipated (in true Balaboosta fashion). Balaboosta closed and merged with Bar Bolonat in Bolonat’s location, keeping the flagship name. Six years later, Balaboosta feels as fresh as ever.

Owner Einat Admony is one of America’s most celebrated Israeli chefs. Between the Taim chain that quietly opened 13 location on the east coast, the restaurants, and cookbooks, her resume is worthy of a Chef’s Table episode. Her daring ways can even be a little too much for New Yorkers after experimenting with the couscous-focused Kish-Kash for a few years. Super high rents make these experiments exactly that.

Needless to say our family (+1) meal in Balaboosta recently was the best meal we ever had in an Admony establishment. Balaboosta today is like Admony’s greatest hits, starting with the ole reliable Hummus, and ending with the sick Tahini Crème Brulée with shredded Halvah. Halvah is one of my many weaknesses. When my Halvah inventory is low at home, everyone around me suffers but no one knows why.

Eggplant with “Asian Tahini”, togarashi, crispy shallots and just enough pleasant heat from the pomegranate harissa is one of many dishes that showcase Admony’s range. There are even Yemenite Soup Dumplings on the menu (FYI, NYC’s first ever soup dumplings festival is tomorrow). Perfectly spiced and herbed beef kebabs is another one of her signatures. Children books have been written about these Kebabs.

The old Balaboosta classic, the Brick Chicken is still solid, but can get lost in the shuffle. Getting chicken as such isnt very hard anymore. But getting a super slow cooked short rib with Lachuch, the Yemeni Injera-like pancake, with tahina and their green S’chug (Yememi hot sauce/spread) is virtually impossible. With that spongy Lachuch, jus, and sauces, you can make the best tacos you’ll ever eat.

No issues whatsoever with the superbly juicy special Brisket, or the crispy saffroned Tahdig rice we couldnt get enough of. Even with the basic bread pudding special (get the Crème Brulée), there was not a bad dish in the house. Just better dishes. And if you are a fellow admirer of Sauvignon Blanc, try the 2022 Cheverny Domaine du Salvard. Go!

Balaboosta
611 Hudson St (West Village)
Recommended Dishes: Hummus, Eggplant, Kebabs, Short Rib, Crème Brulée

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Leitao – Meet NYC’s Best Portuguese

Posted on July 15, 2024 by Ziggy

Its 2024, and you would think by now we should have Portuguese Churrasqueiras spinning Rotisserie chicken in every neighborhood like in cities all over our northern neighbor. Not only we dont have that, but Portuguese food in general just never took off outside of maybe Newark, NJ. Szechuan, Thai, Korean and more took off in a spectacular way. Even Birria, something that no one knew anything about 5 years ago, can now be found in every hood. In other words, the title is not a stretch.

As I already mentioned in the latest Z-List update, Leitao is my favorite discovery of the year so far. And sadly, I dont usually discover them this way. I noticed Leitao while exploring the area, as opposed to the usual way, exploring social media. The first thing I noticed was the most ambitious Portuguese menu I’ve seen outside of Portugal, by quite a margin.

Leitao opened during the pandemic by a chef/owner from Braga. And my guess is that they opted to skip the mandatory payment to the social media mafia, opting for the good ol’ word of mouth instead. It probably took some time, but by the look of things, it paid off. In both my visits so far including at off hours, the place was mobbed, and many seem to be repeaters. We repeated two weeks after the first visit. Something as rare as summer Olympics.

The closest I got to Braga was the stunning Bom Jesus. Equally as spectacular, and maybe even as spiritual to some, is that Leitao menu which reads like the Best of Portugal. It even includes the namesake, an entire Suckling Pig meal for only $400. From my experience the Portuguese do it better than the Spaniards. After trying much of the menu, some winners emerged, and zero duds. Big menus can mean big problems, plenty of thrills, or both. Much depends on the head chef ability to handle it. So far so good…

Porco Preto – If I have to pick one unsung hero that is not getting the proper credit here. Well marbled Iberico Ribs cooked with wine and topped with a toasted garlic and chili mix. Easily falls off the bone and supremely flavorful. An absolute must.

Camarao ao Alho – Beautiful plump shrimp on top of a thick(er) Bourbon, Garlic, Lobster sauce. Comes with a nice surprise, a basket of fresh Baguettes from Orwasher bakery.

Shishito Peppers – Heaps of smoked paprika and chili, sitting on a thin, almost hidden layer of yoghurt. They provide spice levels on the menu, an this is listed as a 5. While not too spicy by any stretch, its spicy enough to affect other dishes.

Robalo – Another must that we had to have on both visits so far is this butterflied Seabass. Big flavors from the spinach sauce, EVOO, and smoked paprika rub on top. Reminded me of the famous fish at Contramar in Mexico City rather than anything we had in Portugal.

Piri Piri Chicken – Not the most tender chicken in town, but tender enough, flavor packed, and probably the most popular dish here.

Salad de Polvo (top)- You know it will be good just by the look and initial touch. The classic mammoth Portuguese no frills but plenty of thrills octopus. Outside of maybe Newark, not so easy to find in the Metrolopitan area. One of two solid Polvos on the menu.

Francesinha – If you never had a Francesinha you are in for a treat. Not quite Porto-esque, but not bad at all. An elaborate sandwich of Fillet Mignon, chorizo and salami covered with melted mozzarella and beer sauce. I shared it with three others, and still was able to taste plenty. Not sure if you can get it topped with egg as you can get in Porto.

Polvo – Unlike the salad, the “Polvo” is sliced and comes with fried potatoes and chorizo. Something I’d order again, even though I’m not sure I prefer over the Polvo salad.

Pasteis de Nata – I’m not even sure what other desserts they offer after seeing these babies being paraded all over the place. They look a little burnt but they dont taste like it. Flaky and fantastic.

Drinks are solid as well. Good Beer menu, and Portuguese inspired cocktails like Porto Tonico.

Leitao
547 Hudson St (West Village)
Recommended Dishes: All of the above especially the Porco Preto, Robalo and any of the Octopus

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Breakfast by Salt’s Cure – Clinton St for Locals

Posted on June 5, 2024 by Ziggy

I dont believe that a PhD in Mathematics is enough to figure out the exact amount of syrup required on any given pancakes. How often do we put too little, too much, way too little, way too much, especially if its something like Trader’s Joe’s frozen blueberry pancakes. And then there’s the butter. How much is enough. Its 2024, and I have plenty of life challenges on the plate.

And what kind of Syrup anyway. My Aunt Jemima daughters would rebel when we served anything else. For years we would put both Aunt Jemima and Maple syrup on the table. Until they both moved out, and we gradually got rid of AJ. But turns out, they eventually move back in, so we met them halfway. Yes to Nutella (especially during Matzoh season), but no to Aunt Jemima.

Gothamist

Turns out someone on the west coast figured it all out. In 2010 the first Breakfast by Salt’s Cure opened in LA, and the lines quickly followed. “Breakfast” is the spinoff to Salt’s Cure (sugar?), a popular LA brunch spot hailed for the item that was essentially spun off, the Oatmeal Griddle Cake. Chris Phelps, the brain behind this has been perfecting these “pancakes” since age two.

As you can see, these pancakes wont win any beauty awards. Maybe miss congeniality. But they are as good as any pancakes you’ll ever have. And they certainly dont need syrup. In fact its a “no syrup for you” policy in all four locations (two in LA, two in NYC). Phelp’s Oatmeal mix, available for purchase, includes the perfect amount of cinnamon molasses. Not too sweet at all.

I’ve been passing through the lines at the West Village location for many months now. Coming at 9 am on a Sunday meant a 10-15 min wait. By 10 am it was more like 30 mins. Once inside you order and pay at the counter, and wait for them at your table. You have the option of various flavors like banana and blueberry. I was partial to the Banana with nuts, while the rest of the family preferred the original.

The combos add eggs and sausages to the mix, but even those items are not your typical diner variety. The eggs whether soft scrambled runny, sunny or over, are perfect. With regular pancakes and a dollop of syrup, eggs usually need to be completely separated. The sausages are more like thin eastern European cutlets. Not a bad thing. I went for the pork, but there’s also chicken and chickpeas (like a falafel cutlet I suppose). The saltiness of the sausages compensate for the lack on the eggs.

While tourists, rightfully so, wait for the pancakes at Clinton St Bakery, locals these days go to Salt’s Cure. While the pancakes at CSB are indeed good, I think much of the flavor comes from their warm Maple Butter, and the pancakes arent really as unique as Salt’s Cure. According to the hard working EWZ historians this is my first (and probably last) Breakfast post. Which means its an obvious Go!

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Tasty Tours – Eating With Ryan

Posted on February 27, 2024 by Ziggy

Yep, I took a food tour in NYC. Something I havent done since I took a relatively mediocre Free Tour by Foot tour of East Village. Free Tours and food dont really go well together in NYC, even if free means very cheap ($1-$2 each item). But generally for me, taking a food tour in NYC always felt like an experienced auto mechanic getting oil change lessons. Probably boring, but I may learn a thing or two.

Well, I actually did. I learned a few things about Washington Square Park, and even Taylor Swift, among other tidbits I never picked up in the almost 40 years of living here. For a while I thought a Swifty was a cleaning supply. I just figured it would be something fun to do with my daughter. Playing tourist in my own town, and someone else feeding me for a change, I must say it felt good. The element of surprise, coupled with some of the tastiest snacks in the area, and a fun guide to boot.

Tasty Tours is a newish tour operator started by a young enthusiastic fella named Ryan. As with any food tour, you have to have the right personality for it. The reviews suggested it, and I’m happy to confirm. Ryan is easy going, funny, and just the right guy you want to spend a few hours with. As a tour guide you feel obligated to share your knowledge, often ignoring the risk of overdoing it. But Ryan got the formula right. Just the right amount of history, trivia, customer engagement, and even the proper amount of food.

Although Ryan doesnt mind me sharing the food we ate, I rather not. I think the lack of any preconceptions and the element of surprise is part of the fun. But if you want to know, you can easily find that info on his site. Its a nice mix of classics that you may already know about and some less known spots. I can tell you that out of the 6 stops, only one of them I probably wont return, and at least two of them I’d like to return very soon. I’m sharing one food picture, but I wont tell what it is. You’ll need to guess 😉

One thing I miss the most from my guide days is that moment right after a good tour. I felt that after this one. As I told Ryan, its unfortunately the bad ones that will stick out and become most memorable, as you are also in the mercy of the people you meet. Food tours is an experience at its core. Dont take one strictly because someone you know told you to take one. Take one if you want to meet a local and other travelers, learn a thing or two about the area you are visiting, and eat tasty food in the process. Come to think of it, who wouldn’t want that.

https://www.tastytoursnyc.com

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Anton’s – A Classic in the Making

Posted on February 13, 2024 by Ziggy

I dont know why I havent written a post on Anton’s before. Well, I sort of know. I may have added it to the world famous Z-List (I was told by people from various countries) before Anton’s even opened. You see, I’ve been following Nick Anderer ever since I met him at a Gabriele Bonci / Katie Parla pizza event in Brooklyn years ago. He called the police on me twice but eventually just got used to it. Another rehashed joke. I know. I’ll be here all week, try the veal. 

Like Anton’s itself, Anderer’s resume reads like an homage to the classics. Tabla (under the great late Floyd Cardoz), Babbo, Gramercy Tavern, Maialino, Marta. I recall sitting at the Marta counter, watching him throw out pie after pie that looked perfectly fine to my lazy eye, but not perfect enough to him. But it was Martina, Marta’s baby sister where I began to understand his trendsetting ways. Martina was unlike any pizzeria we have, but NYC was just not ready for her yet. Great, now I have the Bonci TV show in my head, most likely for the rest of the day.

Partnered with beverage director and life partner Natalie Johnson, Anton’s is Anderer’s first. The duo not only bringing in a wealth of expertise, but managed to put together an all-star team that includes Otto’s long timer legend Dennis Mullally, among other capable hands. After five years that included a painful pandemic, its now a well oiled machine that’s consistently booked. Though it feels more like the prototypical village neighborhood corner Italian. I’ve seen it referred to as European, but I dont recall seeing Borscht on the menu. He does make killer Pelmeni, but he calls them “Ravioli”.

Has this happened to you? You buy a nice stinky Camembert in France, eat it in the hotel with a fresh baguette, and a nice Vouvray with your spouse, and before you know it you find yourself wondering outside with your PJ’s looking for the nearest garbage can at 2 am. Even when secured in the fridge, the stench can take over the room. Its the Durian of cheese. At Anton’s, two waiters were holding their breath while I was smelling the Camembert from different angles. No smell that I could detect. This was a mild one, but that creaminess, along with that Cherry Gastrique and baguette, a killer combination. A new must.

The Pâté Grand-mère and the Smoked Whitefish Salad are the old musts. My oldest said it was like breakfast at grandmas. I agreed but only because I didnt want to kill the moment. No grandma I know ever served me a whitefish salad like this. Another winner this time was a refreshing salad of winter citrus, fennel, pistachios.

The pasta course at Anton’s is why you need to bring friends. The Spinach-Ricotta Ravioli is one of the classics, though I skipped it this time to try others. The well balanced Fettuccine with Mutton Ragù is Rezdora-esque and our new favorite of the bunch. The Angel Hair Francese takes me to my happy place. Staten Island. Where I’m munching on baked clams at a random red sauce Italian. To me its the pasta version of baked clams rather than the intended Chicken. Not a bad thing. Bucatini Baczynsky, another classic from day one, was the weakest link this time, but its more of a testament to the others.

If there’s one more thing I learned from the Maialino and Marta days is trust the chickens. At Anton’s, the half bird is on the simple side, but just the right crisp and quite satisfying. You know its good when you keep reaching for it on a very full stomach and with plenty of high quality steak left. The expertly cooked Strip Steak Lorenz is another day one item. Pair it with the Spinach a la Noialles. Hmm, maybe its more European than I thought.

Another big plus at Anton’s is the well rounded wine list, including the offerings by the glass. Finish with the Apple Crisp a la Mode and/or Bourbon Pecan Pie, though I’m suspecting you cant go wrong with any of them. Anton’s has all the ingredients for a classic in the making. Go!

Anton’s
570 Hudson St (West Village)
Recommended Dishes: Camembert, Pate, Whitefish Salad, Ravioli, Fettuccine with Mutton Ragù, Angel Hair Francese, chicken, steak, spinach, Pecan Pie, Apple Crisp

 

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L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele – Eat, Pray, Love, Repeat

Posted on January 18, 2023 by Ziggy

Opening a pizzeria in the heart of Manhattan these days requires some major Bombolone. From the West Village location of da Michele alone one can walk to a variety of pizzerias that are ranked with the best of them… Brunetti, Ribalta, Song’ E Napule, John’s of Bleecker Street, just to name a few. These few are mostly of the Neapolitan kind, the result of the new wave of Italian immigrants. Unlike their Sicilian and Neapolitan predecessors who worked with limited ingredients back in the day, the new wave has access to not only ingredients, but the proper pizza oven.

But all the ingredients in the world wont put you on the map if you are missing the main one, a capable Pizzaiolo. Thats always been the main difference between eating in NYC and Rome or Naples, for the most part. We are getting there, if not there already. L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele is the brainchild of Francesco Zimone and Michele Rubini who are expending on the legacy of the original staple in Naples (since 1870). After two visits, needless to say, these two got pizza down to a science, mainly thanks to the all important Pizzaiolos they brought with them.

During my conversation with Michele after my first meal, I learned that these guys are no stranger to the ultra competitive NY pizza scene. More importantly perhaps they are well aware of what it takes to run a successful pizzerie in Naples, in accordance with Verace Pizza Napoletana Association which Michele Rubini is certified with. The Naples location is also famous for being featured in Julia Roberts’ Eat, Pray, Love. It has received so many accolades over the years, it has no more room on its door. Shame you wont see a “Ziggy Approved” sticker anytime soon.

Simply put, this is as good as pizza gets in NYC. The pies are larger than the typical Neapolitan found all over the city. I wrongly assumed they increase the size to please Americans, but Michele told me thats the size in Naples as well. The base is soft, light and perfectly charred. And the ingredients gel together beautifully. There’s a double cheese option for some reason, but not worth the risk of losing a perfectly balanced Fior Di Latte, Pecorino, tomato sauce combo.

Its important to keep it simple with the delicate Neapolitans, and always go with the Margherita, but I cant help but get the Diavola every time I see it. Here its superb, and the spicy salami is actually spicy. The Pesto is the only white one I tried, and its not too shabby either. Two pies can easily feed a hungry three, but not quite 4, unless you order other items. Its a fairly full menu for a pizza joint, and it will get fuller with burgers, fish and steak soon. The multi-room space is fairly spacious, with a long bar, and a third room downstairs that isnt quite ready. Its the most ambitious pizzeria that ever opened in NYC. So far so delicious.

L’antica Pizzeria da Michele
81 Greenwich Ave (West Village)

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Jeju Noodle Bar – Fortune Favors the Brave

Posted on January 13, 2023 by Ziggy

2019 seems like centuries ago. Anything before Covid is now foggy, ancient memory. We often use “pre-pandemic” to describe certain trends and personal habits. For example before the pandemic I would only have Negronis in restaurants like Jeju Noodle Bar. Nowadays its just another Wednesday at Ziggy’s new and improved bar. We drink more at home, and spend more eating out. A full meal at a full service restaurant used to cost on average $150 for two not too long ago. These days its more like $180. Pre-Covid Jeju Noodle Bar was one of the best deals in town as I wrote in 2018. For $45 per person you got a 6 courser for the ages way back then. Then, a nasty virus struck. Michelin!

Michelin of course has its many pros. I just cant think of any at the moment ;). Oh ye, I reckon it’s a great achievement for the establishment, the ultimate accolade really. It often attracts more business, albeit a new, more demanding customer base. It definitely inspire those seeking stars, and keeps the starred chefs on guard. But the cons are too many to list here. One of which is that as a customer, you may pay dearly for the said inspiration and honor.

This is not so much a complaint, but a cool transformation story. As much as I would prefer the old Jeju, I’m genuinely happy for these guys. They reaped the rewards of smart and even brave moves early on, and created a formula that works for many. It was one of a kind back then, and even with the changes, one of a kind today. A Michelin starred semi fancy noodle joint. But its hard to ignore some of the changes, like the star dish Toro Ssam that was included in the original $45 tasting menu, is now a $55 caviar-ed triumph in itself. And the two piece fried chicken app that now includes caviar as well, comes with a $29 sticker shock.

These differences are mainly reflected in its smaller dishes. While its a “Noodle Bar” that specializes in Ramyun, Korean style Ramen, its smaller dishes are its strength and the main reason for the Michelin star. In fact it wouldnt be so wrong to only order appetizers at Jeju, and it would be a mistake to order a filling Ramyun for each person. And then you have the seemingly rotating two dry noodle dishes that are not shown on the main site menu. Last time there was an intense lobster pasta (Gajae-Myun) drenched with a fishy (in a good way) Sauce Americaine, and lobster emulsion. Its like a the pasta version of a sick lobster bisque.

The good news is that many of the small dishes are very shareable, even for four people. Take the half rack pork ribs. Plentiful, fall of the bone, and sauced to sweet and spicy perfection. But I wouldnt expect less for $30. I did expect less from the Gochujang Bokum with a comparably shocking tag of $13. But what I got was elevated comfort food in the form of beef ragu over rice topped with potato crisps, featuring flavors as explosive as the volcanos on Jeju island. The Amberjack, one of three raw fish dishes on the menu is probably the only skippable item we ever tasted here. The delicate Amberjack just got lost for me between all the sauces.

Articles, poems, and children books have been written about the Toro Ssam Bap over the years (eg “Ssam I am”, “Goodnight Toro Ssam”). I believe I even included it in one of my annual, not so anymore, Best Dishes of the year. I will probably resume it this year and pay more attention. The layers of rice, scrambled eggs, fatty tuna, and now Golden Osetra Caviar manufacture an umami filled spoonful. Or make it a freakishly good taco with the accompanied seaweed. Despite the price tag, its an absolute must signature, and such a great complement to the menu.

Its the only “Ramen” place where I would recommend to share one, or maybe even skip altogether. They are solid and worth trying, but just not as life changing as the smaller items. The often mentioned Wagyu Ramyun isnt as big of an upgrade as the price suggests ($45 vs mostly low $20’s). The high quality Wagyu brisket inside the delicious broth is good but not quite as outstanding as one would expect from Wagyu meat. The pork bone based Gochu, and the family Ramyun are well balanced, milky, and just rich enough. Sometimes Tonkotsu ramen can get too rich for my taste.

Wine list is fine. Beautiful decor, though less than ideal comfort levels if you get tables with benches instead of chairs. In the winter time, these benches dont work so well as there’s nowhere to put your coat or hang your man purse. Never sacrifice comfort for aesthetics, kids. Oddly no dessert, another change from the good ole days! Jeju is still a solid inclusion on the coveted Z-List, that some may argue more beneficial for consumers than Michelin stars. Go!

Jeju Noodle Bar
679 Greenwich St (West Village)
Recommended Dishes: Ribs, Gochujang Bokum, Toro Ssam, Gajae-Myun, Gochu Ramyun

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5 Underrated Italian

Posted on September 14, 2022 by Ziggy
Dell’anima Tajarin

In NYC of course. This is not a Puglia blog yet as the last three posts suggest, although much more on Puglia coming soon. I’ve been living in NYC for 36 years now, and I dont remember a more exciting time for Italian dining. Even though The prices are moving in the opposite direction. A full meal at a mid price, full service restaurant now averages $175 for two (source: EWZ Stats), up from $150 not too long ago. But the competitive environment has never seen levels like these before. A glut of new Italian immigrants has turned the Italian scene upside down where Italian/Italian is the new American/Italian especially in Manhattan and north Brooklyn. Cacio e Pepe is the new Chicken Alfredo, and Neapolitan pizza joints are opening at faster pace than NY style it seems. Its a pizza revolution of sorts, although a complete pizza transition wont happen in my lifetime.

The title of this post is oxymoronic in a way since there are literally 100’s of underrated Italian in NYC today. But I’ll focus on five places that are much easier to reserve (unlike Don Angie, Lilia, Ci Siamo, Rezdora, and so many), and may bring you similar levels of joy.

Dell’anima (Hell’s Kitchen) – The easiest pick of the bunch. Best Italian in Hell’s Kitchen historically has been a mystery, just like the glut of Thai restaurants in HK. Mercato held that claim for some time IMO, but ever since Dell’anima moved to Gotham West Market (conquered really as there’s not much left there these days. Even Ivan Ramen is no more) it established itself as the one to beat. While tourists continue to flock to places like Becco for the quantity, locals line up chef Andrew’s counter for the quality. I dont recall ever having a less than stellar dish here. You cant go wrong with menu staples like Tajarin Alla Carbonara, and Pollo al Diavolo, but I wouldnt hesitate ordering new additions and specials. The location, and being inside a food hall of course has something to do with the underrated tag.

Pollo al Diavolo

Ulivo (NoMad) – Talking about Mercato, long time readers should not be surprised to see it’s little sister here. With that said, somehow Ulivo managed to outgrow it’s sister, and establish itself as a solid choice in an extremely competitive area. That’s partly due to the talents of Sardinian born Emanuel Concas who figured out the right formula after years at Mercato and six years now at Ulivo. What you get is top notch ingredients, solid pizza, and a plethora of fresh pasta dishes, their bread and butter. You’ll find some hard to find Sardinian and Sicilian autocorrect specialties like Malloreddus with sausage ragu, and the simple but outstanding Busiate with almonds, fresh tomato, basil and garlic. No Secondis here. Instead, order another drink from the award winning bartender.

Busiate

Faro (Bushwick) – This is another no brainer. A Michelin star recipient (yay Michelin!) only to lose it a few years later (oh who cares about Michelin!). Faro is being too modest when it bills itself as a simple neighborhood Italian. Neighborhood Italian dont do Cappelletti stuffed with sweet corn purée, topped with a slow cooked short rib ragu. I could have just ended the previous sentence after Cappelletti. This is one example of a rotating, masterfully executed seasonal pastas. I believe only the Bucatini with confit chicken has been on the menu longer than a year. And they ought to bring the sick Gnocchi Alla Romana back. Its more of a destination Italian. The problem with Faro is the most likely reason its on this list. Its kind of Faro, as in deep in the heart of Bushwick. But Bushwick, thanks to the growing list of mega clubs like Avant Gardner is slowly becoming a nightlife mecca.

Cappelletti

Popina (Columbia Street Waterfront District) – It was fun seeing Popina grow over the years, and somehow remain true to itself. On my first visit. I expected the short menu to change and expand at some point to accommodate the masses, but thankfully it never did. Chris Mcdade’s stints with places like Maialino and Marta, his southern roots, and unconditional love for anchovies help create a fun, concentrated menu. Items rotate frequently but if they ever remove the signature spicy Chicken Milanese, expect local strikes. On a recent visit one particular Monkfish dish really showcased the tiny kitchen’s range. The team is opening Gus’s Chop House in nearby Carroll Gardens, sort of a gastropub.

Monkfish

Song’E Napule (Greenwich Village) – You can skim through 120 best pizza in NYC lists and you wont find anyone singing the praises of Song’E Napule. You will need to look at an Italian publication like Gambero Rosso which we probably should be doing anyway when it comes to pizza. The name has nothing to do with singing. It just means “from Napoli” in Neapolitan dialect. But if you are a fan of the Neapolitan style you’ll be belting out romantic tunes to your neighbor, Napoli great Diego Maradona on the wall. Legit oven, proper ingredients, and a capable pizzaiolo results in light and airy awesomeness. As genuine as it gets in NYC.

Categories: Brooklyn, Gramercy, Flatiron, Midtown West, New York City, West Village | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Berber Street Food – By Mother of Dragons

Posted on April 24, 2019 by Ziggy

Berber Stree Food - Berber FeastNow that I got your attention…

The story is all too familiar, but the outcome in this case has a GOT type twist.  Girl starts working as a waitress at some of our higher ends.  She then graduates from the French Culinary Institute, before working at names like Gramercy Tavern, Per Se, Daniel.  She then leaves to travel around the world to collect more inspiration before opening her first establishment.  The girl becomes chef.

But the big twist in this story is in the type of establishment.  Every time I sit in one of the four tables at tiny Berber Street Food in West Village, I wonder if there’s another place remotely like it in NYC.  “Afro-fusion” is one way to describe it, but in order to understand what it means one needs to have a few meals here and meet Diana.  She is as fierce, and confident as they come, with unrivaled talent and passion to boot.  As the New Yorker put it, Diana “has the West Village wrapped around her finger”

Berber Stree Food

This is not the case where I was blown away by the first bite.  The Jerk wings had this  familiar and pleasant fruity tone, but not quite as sharp or spicy as the Caribbean style jerk I’m accustomed to.  Dont get me wrong here.  I smothered these babies, licked every finger, and didnt wash my hands that afternoon, or evening.  I just wasnt in a rush to come back, but oh so glad I did.

The love affair started with visit #2 when I had a bowl of rice, Black Eye Peas, seasonal green beans, and jerk chicken that came in a stew-like form this time.  It had this addictive sweetness, and spicy enough to leave a nice tingle.  Although if you want more spice, the intense Habanero sauce that accommodates the dish (if not, ask) will do.  Enjoy it with the terrific homemade Ginger Lemongrass juice.  Although on another visit the scent of the Morrocan mint tea next to me was hypnotizing.

But the dish to get here might be the Djolof Fried Rice with chicken.  It may just rival the best Biryani you ever had and then some.  The same chicken is used as a wrap in the Shawarma sandwich.  Plenty of Middle Eastern dishes here due to the North Adrican connection.  There’s also Koftas, Moorish Kebabs, and her own falafel interpretation on the menu.  Diana is like Einat Admony reborn in a way.

Berber Stree Food - Pudding

 

Every time I come here I see the team grow a little bit.  Yesterday the cook (not Diana) felt especially generous with the “Berber Feast”, slowly roasted chopped leg of lamb that is marinated for a few days with Harissa and cumin.  You get more Harissa on the side, along with other spreads, a couple of nifty salads, and couscous.  A taste of a Berber (North Africa ethnic group.  Diana’s father side) wedding feast where they serve whole pigs as such.  This has potential as a house specialty.  On another day Diana was experimenting with an off menu North African pudding that tasted like something you may get at one of her old employers, like Per Se.

Half a block away, visitors from around the world, flock to Joe’s for its above average NY slice (I get mine at Sacco and elsewhere).  While at Berber, you’ll find returning locals including students going for the cheap bowls and sandwiches to go.  Berber is slowly becoming a little local hangout, where Diana knows everyone and you end up making new friends.  This is possibly the best thing to pop in West Village in years.Berber Stree Food - Wings

Berber Stree Food - Chicken BowlBerber Stree Food - Djolof Fried Rice

 

Categories: New York City, West Village | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

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