New York City

5 Standout NYC Brunches

Posted on August 15, 2023 by Ziggy

As a self confessed food snob it has taken me decades to finally warm up to brunch. In fact at some point I simply hated the concept. I understood it, but hated it. It always felt like the industry asked Hallmark, the inventor of Valentine’s day for help. “Its simple. Just invent a fourth meal, late enough in the day where you can offer alcohol. Make it only once or twice a week so people can feel like they are celebrating something, and maybe they’ll order more alcohol”

I mean, once you take out eggs and avocado toasts from the menu, you are basically left with savory lunch items combined with sweet breakfast items. Eggs to me can be eaten all day long. In fact I normally have them for lunch. Once a month I make a more elaborate egg meal, usually on a Sunday. We call it breakfast!

But this doesnt mean I dont partake in this tradition. I do enjoy a good shakshuka at any given day and time, and I have trouble saying no to hyped up pancakes. I just dont call it brunch. Its a late breakfast or lunch for me. But I’ll play along, at least for the purpose of this post, and list 5 brunches that stand out from the rest. Most of these do have a common theme, and so not particularly diverse…

Rana Fifteen – Park Slope, Brooklyn

The last thing I expected from the Filipino FOB team is to open a Turkish restaurant. But then again, half of the team is in fact Turkish. They opened less than a year ago, and its unlike any Turkish that we know in NYC. All you need to do is order one dish. One of two egg dishes for breakfast, er, Brunch. And next thing you know, you get everything but the kitchen sink laid out in such way, you dont know where to start. As the name suggests, 15 savory and sweet homemade delights including outstanding pancakes and various spreads. Combined, its a symphony of flavors, with no bad apples to be found. This is brunch for people who hate brunch.

Chez Ma Tante – Greenpoint, Brooklyn

This is a more “traditional” brunch with two issues. Its in Greenpoint, and its dangerously close to possibly the best tacos in town, Taqueria Ramirez. But I wouldnt mention this gem unless it had at least one very good reason to schlep to Greenpoint. Pancakes, ranked up there with some of the best I’ve had in nyc, including Clinton St Bakery. Thick, crispy, fluffy, and addictively sweet. Its not exactly an area secret so prepare to wait.

19 Cleveland – Nolita

The name doesn exactly scream some of the best Israeli food in the city, like little sister Nish Nush. But to me this is just the kind of light Mediterranean fair that differentiates itself from other brunches. Expect of course solid Hummus and falafel, but also craftier stuff like eggplant carpaccio, fish shawarma and short rib bourekas. And yes, of course there’s a sick Shakshuka.

Cafe Mogador – East Village and Williamsburg

For years whenever I passed by Mogador in East Village, I had to cross to the other side of the street during peak brunch time. The many patrons waiting, sometimes for over an hour to be seated, know whats up. You forget sometimes that this is a Moroccan restaurant specializing in Tagine. Arguably, the real specialty here is eggs. Whether in Moroccan style, a la shakshuka with merguez sausage, a Sabich platter dominated by perfectly roasted eggplant, or just in a form of a very good Benedict.

Opera Cafe Lounge, Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn

Emmons Ave in Sheepshead Bay is like the local version of a tourist trap. An attractive area filled with one pretentious place after another. Opera is the one exception (that I know), consistently dishing out fresh middle eastern goodies for quite some time now. Partly due to its size, Opera has slowly become the go to place for celebrations, and just casual no reservations needed brunches. This is where we usually take my mom for brunch, and our orders are always the same. The ‘Breakfast Platter’ that includes various cold cuts, cheese, jams, and drinks. And my personal fave, Menemen (Turkish scrambled eggs) with Sujuk, a spicy dry sausage.

Categories: Brooklyn, East Village, New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Claud – Fortune Favors the Patient

Posted on August 4, 2023 by Ziggy

A few posts ago I wrote that it takes about a year for me to check out a new restaurant in NYC. Usually, I’m in no rush, and rather wait for the establishment to find its stride, and/or the excitement to cool off. Often the stride never arrives, and they close within a year. Sometimes the hype seems artificial, and I lose interest. And sometimes, like with Claud, the hype reaches national proportions (thank you Pete Wells), and it takes roughly a year to score a table.

In this case, the plan was not to wait a full year. But after numerous attempts, I finally got a couple of bar seats, a day shy of Claud’s first anniversary. The truth is that I’ve been following Josh Pinsky ever since the Momofuku Nishi days. He called the cops on me a few times, but after a while he got used to it. When he left Nishi, I felt it was the beginning of the end, and the pandemic just expedited Nishi’s demise. Just like my touring “career”.

For Josh and partner Chase Sinzert it was only a matter of when and where. During or after the pandemic, east or west coast. Thankfully they chose the right coast, where recovered “Fukus” can appreciate them most. Claud feels like a Momofuku support club for fans and staff, with more ex Nishi than I anticipated.

But first thing first, the bread. Well actually, since I’m now over 50, the bathroom. This is got to be the most atmospheric, dare I say, romantic, toilet in the city. The lighting is perfect, its smartly decorated, and there are cookbooks for your reading pleasure in case you decide to stick around. I recommend not.

If the bread is an indication of things to come (as often is the case), you can expect brilliance the rest of the way at Claud. A sourdough with room temp, spreadable butter was soft and hard in all the right places, and pretty much bread perfection. Like truffles in Piedmont in November, the bread was center stage. It was hanging around throughout the meal, kept coming for the dishes that needed it, until we finally had to say stop.

Talking about Piedmont, this is one of the few places in the city that make Agnolotti “Plin” style all year round. Its a treat that very few restaurants make year round, some even stopped altogether due to the labor involved. But at Claud, being one of the “signature dishes”, the chicken liver Agnolotti stays to prevent rioting in East Village. Liver freak Mrs Z in particular, was in heavan.

Early on, the crab and corn fritters did the trick, with that sweet summer corn coming through nicely. And a solid buttery foie gras terrine with honey vinegar jell. Shrimp, another signature, comes sizzling on a very hot skillet. They are barely cooked, yet firm, plump, and insanely satisfying. When it comes to seafood, Pinsky doesnt mess around with too many ingredients and lets the main ingredient shine. Same goes for any raw fish you may come across (two on the current menu).

The thing about Pinsky, and Momofuku school of cooking in general, is that “Signature Dishes” is almost an oxymoron. Its a machine that continues to invent. Cooking AI if you will. On any given night you can find a dish that agrees with you most. For me it was the Halibut with cockles and green garlic. The fish was firmer than usual, not breaking apart every time you touch, yet the perfect texture. Its surrounded by a delicate complementary dashi reminiscent of a scallop dish we once had at Ko. This was pure food magic.

We couldnt find enough belly room for the much hyped mammoth Devil’s food cake. But the root beer ice cream was brilliant in itself. Whether you are into root beer in this case is almost irrelevant. Go! If you can, for Pinsky’s refined, simple cooking, and the bathrooms. In that order.

Claud
90 E 10th St, East Village
Recommended Dishes: Fritters, Foie Gras, Shrimp, Agnolotti, Halibut, Ice Cream

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , , | 1 Comment

Lilia – Come for the Pasta, Stay for More Pasta

Posted on July 26, 2023 by Ziggy

A long overdue update to the original post, Cacio e Perfect. 7 years since opening, and 5 years since our last meal, not much has changed at Lilia. Its still one of the toughest Brooklyn tables, and the menu features the same grade A pastas that put Lilia on the global map. There are very few places in NYC that can rival Missy Robbins’ brilliance.

But if you cant reserve dont despair. Turn on “Notify” on Resy, and/or keep refreshing the Resy page on the day of. You can also just show up midweek early and get a table outside or at the bar. If none of this work, despair! But have a plan B just in case. That area is loaded with respectable plan B’s like Laser Wolf (can also be tough), Kokomo, Le Crocodile, and a good looking Frenchie next door to Lilia, La petite joie. I’ve been staring at their pictures of Steak au poivre longer than I’d like to admit, even to you.

Lets start with the “Almost”. In my not so humble opinion, the “cocktail snacks” are not of the greatest quality. The Prosciutto is basic, saved somewhat by the Parmigiano Butter. The signature Cacio e Pepe Frittelle should be renamed to Cacio e Sale. I’ve enjoyed this in the past, but this time it was just dry, and extremely salty. That leaves the House made Mozzarella toast as an ok choice early on.

Another disappointment this time was the Bagna Cauda. The dipping sauce is still tasty, but its almost like one needs to take a stroll at the Union Square farmers market before the meal, to see what vegetables are on display this time. Otherwise its the luck of the draw with this dish. Snap peas, carrots were fine, while fennel and celery should not be there unless accommodated by some chicken wings.

But those pastas. Mamma Mia! The pillowy goodness signature Agnolotti, as good as it is, is my third favorite pasta here. The Mafaldini is probably the best Cacio e Pepe interpretation in the city, with that profound Pink Peppercorn and perfectly chewy ribbons. But my favorite pasta here is the Fettuccine with lamb ragu. I’m just a sucker for a good ragu and this is as good and balanced as it gets. Unlike the raw fennel I mentioned before, the fennel seeds work so nicely with the lamb here.

A nice discovery on this evening was the Grilled Clams. Love the Calabrian Chili action here. Missy is not shy with the Chili, especially compared to most Italian. It’s the Ugly Baby of Italian food in NYC. Lilia is still a major go. Just skip the small overpriced stuff, and get straight to business (pastas, seafood, meats, and more pasta).

Original Post

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Cafe Spaghetti – Brooklyn’s Worst Kept Secret

Posted on July 12, 2023 by Ziggy

Sal Lamboglia’s Cafe Spaghetti has been on my radar since it opened pretty much. It only took me about a year to finally check it out, but thats pretty much my average in NYC for new places. Some places take much less, some I never make, and some sadly close by the time I’m finally ready. Its amazing how many dont see their one year anni. But over time I found a year is a good amount for an establishment to find its stride. Though this approach has its disadvantages as well.

This place has it all. A large backyard, a good size front porch and sidewalk space, a hefty buzz, a NYT seal of approval, and a menu that NYC essentially grew up with. Even the name, as playful and childish as it is, is catchy like a lady gaga tune (an earlier one). Catchy among adults and kids alike. What kid will say no to a Cafe Spaghetti, or Spaghetti. Yes, mindful of Celiac, although gluten free pasta is available.

Eater

Hence a backyard full of happy North Brooklyn families on an early Saturday night. In that part of Brooklyn, its family time, not so much senior time. Other than one fussy baby that I suspect thought his Fussili was overcooked, all extremely well behaved. Unlike the evening of one particular reviewer that deducted stars because kids were allowed to roam around. What exactly do you expect the staff to do.

The food for the most part was adequate, but the whole experience was more so. Good to see local beer selection, including Staten Island’s own Flagship. Mrs Z loved her Mezcalita and now demands I make it at home. Good food pacing, almost a rarity in NYC these days. And in true NYC 21st century, more than three menu sections, including a “Cicchetti” section that is not too distinguishable than the antipasti below.

Rice Balls (Arancini), topped with “Cacio e Pepe” was just solid enough to not require the typically accompanied red sauce. The oversalted Brussel Sprouts with Pepperoni wasnt as successful. It could have just relied on the salt from the meat. The pastas were more than serviceable. A solid Vongole, and Penne with a creamy garlic sauce and lump Maine crab, good even if could have used more of the advertised heat.

The one glaring miss was a semi dry and uneventful Chicken Francese. Growing up with this staple we were curious about Sal’s interpretation, but it wasnt much of an upgrade over any Staten Island/south Brooklyn pizzeria for roughly half of the cost. The undisputed star, piece de resistance was a piece of dad’s Tiramisu. Just moist enough, just creamy enough, just perfect enough.

A fun, albeit uneven meal. I can see why Pete Wells calls it the Anti-Carbone, but overall it falls short of the promised ode to the classic neighborhood Italian. The Manhattan style, extra large, overly proper staff wont remind you of any Outer Borough red sauce Italian. Half of the staff comically tried to take our unfinished pastas away as they were trained to do. Just seems like “too many cooks” outside the kitchen. Its unclear if the true aim is for a neighborhood Italian, or destination Italian. But a solid new option for the Park Slopers and Carroll Gardeners nonetheless.

Cafe Spaghetti
126 Union St (Columbia Street Waterfront District)
Recommended Dishes: Rice Balls, Vongole, Penne with Crab, Tiramisu

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

I Ate on Restaurant Row and Lived to Tell the Tale

Posted on June 23, 2023 by Ziggy

I apologize in advance for what you are about to read. Let’s just say I got a little bored with the usual format. You can just scroll down to the bottom line if thats what you want. This is a typical meal with my girls (two daughters, one wife).

Family member: “Where are we going for Father’s Day”

Dad: “Sicily Osteria”

Family member: “Ooooh, where’s that”

Dad: “Hmm, Hell’s Kitchen”

Family member: “Yas!!!!!”

Family member: “Sweet!!”

(Family approaches restaurant)

Family member: “What in the actual fuck”

Dad: “Its actually “what the actual fuck”, without the in”

Family member: “Who are you and what did you do with my dad”

Dad: “I will explain”

Family member: “I thought you said Hell’s Kitchen”

Dad: “It’s technically Hell’s Kitchen. Remember I used to give food tours here”

Family member: “Who are all these strange looking people”

Dad: “They are tourists”

(Family settles in a nice table outside)

Family member: “Explain!”

Dad: “Well, this place opened about a year ago. The menu is as Sicilian as it gets, the chef worked at Osteria Morini, and Marea. The owners are from…”

Family member: “Oooh Limoncello Spritz, I’ll have that”

Family member: “Please dont tell me you are ordering the sardine ragu special”

Dad: “I think the waiter meant Pasta Con le Sarde.”

Family member: “I dont know what that means”

Dad: “You had it in Palermo and you liked it. Its the one with the raisins”

(food starts to arrive)

Family member: “Yummmm!!! Love the pita chips”

Dad: “Its actually Pannelle, made from chickpeas”

Family member: “Wow, best Arancini ever”

Dad: “Its Arancino, since its one. And yeah this is yummy”

Family Member: “Whats up with the schweddy balls”

Dad: Thats Crocche, fried potato balls”

Family member: “Why is everyone so old looking”

Dad: “Tourists tend to be older. This is not East Village”

Family member: “Nor Hell’s Kitchen evidently”

Dad: “It’s called Restaurant Row, technically Hell’s Kitchen”

Family member: “So what is the deal with this place anyway”

Dad: “Well, owners are actually from Sicily. They also own bocca di bacco, and…

Family member: “So, what is everyone watching?”

Family member: “Black Mirror is out!”

Family member: “OMG I love that show!”

(more food arrives)

Family member: “Any guesses what Italian region the waiter is from”

Dad: “I think he is from the region of Venezuela”

Family member: “What about the chef. What region is he from?”

Dad: “Actually he grew up in a Kibbutz in Israel. His name is Asi Maman and he’s very talented.”

Family member: “So no one here is actually Italian, and this is supposedly Hell’s Kitchen. Ok, got it”

Family member: “Well this pasta is yummy, but weird looking”

Dad: “Its Busiate alla Trapanese, and I agree its delicious”

Family member: “Let me guess, another Palermo specialty?”

Dad: “No, Trapani. Its in the name, and we ate this there”

Family member: “Sorry again for throwing out your #1 dad mug”

Dad: “What will remind me now”

Family member: “You are ruining the surprise”

Family member: This Couscous needs more Couscous”

Dad: “Its done on purpose like that so it wont absorb all the broth. It makes for tastier seafood”

Family member: “This is sick! How did you find this place”

Dad: “Yellow Pages”

Family member: “You know, your dad jokes dont work well with us”

Dad: “I found it on Eater when it first opened, looked at the menu, and..”

Family member: “I dont know what to wear tomorrow”

Family member: “They say rain in the AM’

(pistachio lava cake arrives)

Family member: “OMG, OMG”

Family member: “Slay!”

Dad: “I think I just peed a little”

Family member: “You really need to see someone about that”

Family member: “I dont know why we continue to doubt you”

Family member: “Good pick dad!”

The Bottom Line: Surprisingly strong meal among the tourists. Restaurant Row changed a little during the last few years due to the pandemic as some places had to close and new owners dont want to keep relying on tourists. While I think the change is temporary, places like Sicily Osteria, and EAK Ramen are probably here to stay (I hope). Sicily Osteria instantly becomes one of the most interesting Italian in HK, and perhaps the most authentic Sicilian menu in NYC. The pastas lean on the sweet side as its done in the south, but enjoyable nonetheless.

Sicily Osteria
330 W 46th St (Hell’s Kitchen)
Recommended Dishes: Pannelle, Arancino, Crocche, Busiate, Couscous, Pistachio Lava Cake

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: , , , , | 2 Comments

Pinch Chinese – Cousin Ping Say Get The Chicken

Posted on June 16, 2023 by Ziggy

A quick reminder that Pinch Chinese is still dishing out superb stuff in Soho. A great place to come solo, as a couple, family meeting your kid’s new boyfriend, or any group for that matter to try some of the larger dishes like the crab, and the sensational Wind Sand Chicken which I’ve written about before. Its the sum of all parts kinda dish. Not only you got the quality well marinated meet, juicy flesh, but you’ll be hard pressed finding crispier, more delicious skin.

They can just remove the skin, and serve it as a side dish as weird as it sounds. In Coimbra, Portugal a bones dish consisting of, you guesses it, bones, gained much fame over time. So I dont see a reason why this Cholesterol Special would’nt work. Ok, maybe if they dont call it the Cholesterol Special, but then again, it may be marketing brilliance.

But the one dish we’ve been getting from day one here is the cumin ribs. And the description “Fall of the bones – Jocelyn from Yelp” never gets old. Its quite remarkable that cumin perfume is not a thing. You smell it from the next table as soon as you sit down and you cant meaningfully participate in any conversation until you get it.

The soup dumplings here are a cure for summertime sadness. You may even pinch yourself after the first bite. Wait, is that the reason for the name, or is it due to the pinching or gripping process when you lift those babies. They are tiny but explosive umami bombs. Another must and new discovery for us is the braised pork with white rice and a mustardy greens concoction. Like elevated lunch box comfort food I would order again and again.

There were however some small misses last time. Not big but surprising considering the excellence and attention to detail over the years. The eggplant in garlic was overly sweet and not very garlicky this time. The Dan Dan Noodles tasted a little off (perhaps the star anise overwhelmed). Nevertheless, another enjoyable meal at this Z-List original

Original Post

Pinch Chinese
177 Prince St (Soho)
Recommended Dishes: Seafood/Pork Dumplings, Cumin Ribs, Wind Sand Chicken, Spicy Wontons, String Beans, Snow Crab in Chinese Restaurant, Steak Fried Rice, Taiwanese Beef Noodle, Braised Pork

Categories: New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Somtum Der – Now Derring in Red Hook

Posted on May 25, 2023 by Ziggy

In the land of the new and exciting, its often easy to overlook the established and proven. The “What’s new” questions on social media by people that visited the city once or twice before have always been a mystery to me. Did you try any of the other 99.9%, like Pig and Khao, Minetta Tavern, Popina, etc etc. Are they stale? What exactly is wrong with them? There’s always something new and exciting, but the real question is who will make it past year one, or year ten. 60% fail in their first year, 80% fail within five, and very few make it to 10.

The Z-List Thai staple Somtum Der not only keep soldiering on in the East Village but is now doing it in Red Hook, Brooklyn. While East Village is ultra competitive as I keep saying for years due to the lack of tourists and abundance of students, opening in no-train Red Hook is just another level of Chutzpah. Generally Thai restaurants in Red Hook and neighboring Columbia Street Waterfront District (because real estate firms havent come up with a cute 2 syllable name) dont last very long. See Pok Pok, Krok .

Somtum Der was one of the first to introduce New Yorkers to fiery Isan food when it opened in East Village a decade ago. That was only a year after opening in Bangkok. Both places are in the Michelin guide if you care about such things. In fact the East Village location even got a Michelin star that lasted a whole 5 minutes. The new Red Hook location has exactly the same menu, with pictures. If you dont like menus with colorful pictures, you are probably not enjoying life to the fullest. If we were to give awards to menus with the most vibrant pictures, Somtum Der would be an easy three Kodak recipient.

While Somtum is known for the various namesake papaya salads, I der you to find a more flavorful bird in NYC. Just seeing the picture on the menu for me is like a kid hearing the ice cream truck. Along with the marinaded pork with the soothing sticky rice lollypops, the fried chicken thighs is a usual must. The thing about Somtum Der is that they can take any old, stale, dry meat or fish, and make it taste amazing. Thats not to say that its the type of meat we usually encounter here, but that’s the type of seasoning and marinades they use. Its sort of what Isan food is all about. Preserving meat and fish in historically poor areas.

Its also worth noting the weekly specials, in particular the sickest mushroom salad I ever had, Goi Hed. (invented by someone who thought the Beech mushrooms reminded them of uncircumcised penises). Out of the regulars, last time in Brooklyn we also enjoyed the garlic beef with rice, and a serviceable Pad Thai. My first Pad Thai in maybe 20 years. Blame the pictures.

The cool thing about the Brooklyn location is that it has a lovely garden that feels like you are in a neighbor’s BBQ. Another plus is that its in the heart of Red Hook, walking distance to the legendary Steve’s Key Lime Pie, an important former stop on my Brooklyn tour (RIP). I go straight for the raspberry Swingle these days. Might as well also check out the Merchant Stores Building next door. If it doesnt work out with Mrs Z, my next wedding venue will be at the The Liberty Warehouse. But next month will be 30 years, so who really knows…

Somtum Der
85 Avenue A (East Village)
380 Van Brunt St (Red Hook)
Recommended Dishes: Fried Chicken, Marinadet grilled pork, Mushroom salad (special), Garlic beef

Categories: Brooklyn, East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Foul Witch – The Witches of Easthood

Posted on May 16, 2023 by Ziggy

The Witches of Eastwick is a 1987 flick starring the last remaining aging celebrities who didnt declare their political alliances (minus Cher). Foul Witch is a 6 month old restaurant in East Village. To be precise on a rather strange corner of Ave A (Houston), dangerously close to the tourist central Katz’s Deli, and Il laboratorio del gelato. By dangerous I mean you may be tempted to consider them for your first and last course, but I’m here to convince you otherwise, at least for the first course.

Foul Witch is the highly anticipated New American/Italian from the people that brought us Roberta’s, Roberta’s to-go, and Roberta’s in [name any food hall]. It seems like Roberta’s pizza footprints are all over the city, including in the nearby Market Line food hall in the form of a sound NY style pizza by an alumni. But with the now closed two Michelin Blanca, Carlo Mirarchi and co. long proved that there’s much more than pizza up their sleeves.

The hype surrounding Foul Witch means in order to reserve a table, you may want to move to Sidney Australia for a few months where ressies open in the middle of the day. Unless you are a night owl, its virtually impossible to do so here. Are there day owls? I thought all owls are night owls by definition. I dont understand the rationale of releasing reservations at midnight, as oppose to 9 or 10 am as some are doing for us day owls.

Then how did you score one Ziggy? Another outstanding question Timmy. I tried for months. I must have had ‘Notify’ on for many days which for me rarely works. My plan was to arrive 15 minutes prior to opening and get seats at the bar. Instead, early in the morning on the day of, I had two tabs open on Resy (Claud, the other one) and lo and behold, after only a few hundred refreshes, a 5 PM spot opened up. I pounced like a morning puma.

I think every meal at Foul Witch should start with the “Fire and Ice”. Ice for creamy Stracciatella, Fire for ‘Nduja, that glorious spreadable Calabrian goodness. Why not just call it Stracciatella and ‘Nduja. Its not like the rest of the menu is a puzzle. Extra Brownie point for the the delicious free bread in today’s $10 bread NYC. And another brownie for room temp spreadable butter, another NYC luxury. Minus one brownie for no brownies on the menu.

The Veal Tortellini in Brodo is some serious witchcraft. In a very Italian fashion, big, deep flavors come from very little meat. And that sweetness from the amaretto in the Brodo adds another layer. Ingredients, and attention to detail are key as expected, and its especially evident in the Sunchoke Caramelle. Freakishly good candy shaped pasta with lemon, and poppyseeds.

The menu changes more often than the one shown online, so you may be disappointed or thrilled. And while the prices seem fair, you will be tempted to order more than the usual two dish per. One reason is that some of the smaller items like the excellent buttery Sorana Beans are more like glorified sides you’d want to pair with the mains.

The lone main we tried was also the lone miss. The roasted shoulder of goat had a nice flavor, but lacking in texture, and a bit too much gristle for our taste. The buttered turnips and ramps were the best part of the dish. Oh, I just realized why. Buttered! We skipped dessert.

Italian craft beer lovers would be in beer heaven at Foul Witch. Although I really liked my aromatic Portuguese white Douro blend, I’m not skipping the beer next time. Two drinks, 5 dishes, tip/tax amounted to around $200. The space is comfortable, and intimate. As one would expect, friendly and efficient staff, especially Arlet the Sommelier. Go! If you can get in.

Foul Witch
15 Avenue A (East Village)
Recommended Dishes: Fire and Ice, Veal Tortellini, Sunchoke Caramelle, Sorana Beans

Ave Q art on Ave A

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Foxface Natural – A Star is (re)Born

Posted on May 2, 2023 by Ziggy

December 2023 Update

A triumphant return results in a triumph. I dont know why it took me so long to come back. Travel, holidays, personal stuff, always in the way. I even brought a doctor’s note, but it was never requested. While I havent been back since May, it was interesting to follow the many developments of Foxface Natural, mainly in the media. I expected great things, but not quite the kind of hype so soon. Needless to say, the built up expectations were met and then some.

The three of us started with some raw goodness. Two raw fish dishes that could not have been more different, showcasing that range. Pastrami spiced Hiramasa with horseradish, and preserved lemon was quite the delicate treat. As brilliant as it was, it was upstaged by the quality Maine Bluefin with cured olives, fermented tomato and smoked chive olive oil. Pure joy with every morsel.

I dont think you can find more tender meat than the super slow cooked Boer Goat. Served with similar texture eggplant and fermented Okra providing some crunch. This would have been a highlight in many places, but here it’s my least favorite main (albeit the girl’s favorite), though something I’d order again, and again.

Another hit was Monkfish roasted on the bone, with thick but mild Chraime sauce that complimented that richness nicely. It comes with addictive crispy sunchokes with quality Harrisa on a separate plate. Always expect the unexpected here. But the piece de resistance for me was the Pato Con Arroz. An expertly cooked dry aged duck confit with delicious rice and a Aji Amarillo (Peruvian yellow chili) based puree that made the dish quite distinct tasting.

Ended with two outstanding Gelato. Chai and Buttermilk Gelato with Saffron poached pear, and the Prickly Pear Gelato. Though if I have to choose I’ll take the former. Easily one of the best meals of the year for me and tough to please significant others. My daughter asked me how to describe this cuisine. The best I came up with New American on steroids. Go!

Original Post (May 2023)

Long time readers and my East Village food tour (RIP) participants are all too familiar with Foxface, the little sandwich shop that could. It is now Foxface Natural. As in the natural progression from a successful sandwich shop to a full service restaurant in the former Harry and Ida’s space. This first meal was a bitter sweet moment for me, after spending countless hours munching on pastrami at Harry and Ida’s over the years. They did call the cops on me once, but two nights in jail was a very small price to pay.

My first meal, of most likely many, at Foxface Natural was a memorable one. Though there’s one tiny issue with the place I should tell you about first. Its not really open yet. This was a pre-opening hummus and oysters themed event with chef Maoz Alonim of the famed Basta in Tel Aviv. EWZ historians will tell you that I dont normally attend such events, as I’m more of a “see you in about a year” type. But I attended this one, as I’m all too familiar with chef/owner Sivan’s capabilities.

So this is more of a public announcement rather than a lengthy review. What we got was a small preview of things to come. And with Sivan’s range, its anyone’s guess what will be on the menu on day one. Although something tells me the plate of the most distinct tasting pickles I’ve ever seen, and I, will exchange pleasantries in the future.

The old smoker that stayed behind is responsible for most of the hits. A superb lamb shoulder sitting on top of ultra creamy hummus, with a punchy green S’chug (Yemenite hot sauce). I’m more of a red S’chug guy, but good S’chug is good S’chug. Another hit was a slow smoked goat that comes with a soothing spiced yogurt sauce, almonds and mint.

And just because we dont eat nearly enough Feta at home (inside joke), we just had to try the Feta with eggplant, roasted in the new wood fired oven, sitting on a beautiful nettle puree. The lone dessert of Tahini Gelato with pistachios was just the proper finish.

Its a refreshing “mom & pop” debut in an increasingly corporate Manhattan. Old Harry and Ida’s fans will not recognize the new space, about a year in the making. The bar dominates the long room (I forgot to take pictures), and its safe to expect good wine. There will be wonderful smoked meat, glorious fish, but more importantly with Sivan, expect the unexpected.

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Au Cheval – Anatomy of a Burger

Posted on April 12, 2023 by Ziggy

When your spouse goes, “I feel like a Burger”, in NYC you might as well take your Ibuprofen 600 right at that moment. Not in 20 minutes, not in an hour, no sense of waiting any longer. Take it, and call in sick the next day. In most cities in the US its a fairly simple request. But here, before you know it, your mind goes berserk with a circus of possibilities. What kind, what kind of place, where? Do you want shake shack, other fast-food, fast-casual, diner, any of the 798 restaurants we know, steakhouse? All offer 50 shades of burger. You can also sub burger with pizza and get the same results.

With that said, this time wasnt as bad as before, and Au Cheval came to mind fairly quickly. A place that opened to much fanfare three years ago. You see, I’m one of those weird food bloggers that can wait years to eat at a popular place. I’m fairly low on the FOMO scale. I have one or two names in my head that stick around for a while until I forget about them or replace them. At the moment the name is Foul Witch. Cant reserve it for the life of me.

Au Cheval in Chicago, IL. Photo by Kevin J. Miyazaki/PLATE

Au Cheval is a Chicago import that’s billed as a diner. I dont know about Chicago, but calling this a diner in NYC is like calling an old school steakhouse, a shoe store. They both sell stuff. To find the place, you may need to play restaurant hide and seek. Even when you find the tiny alley, you still need to look for it. Once you enter, it feels like a hidden speakeasy.

There’s nothing extraordinary about the burger. “Then why are you dedicating an entire post to it, Ziggy?” Another good question Timmy. The answer is, as per above, NYC is blessed with a number of fancy burgers. And this is just a really solid burger. Its more of a sum of its parts situation, as opposed to a particularly noteworthy patty.

Its a regular burger on steroids, especially once you add the suggested fried egg and bacon. The bun is a perfectly soft brioche. Just the kind of softness and sturdiness you want from the supporting role. You get three thick cut, peppery and salty bacon strips that add just enough crispiness and flavor. The egg I usually find is more for aesthetics, but that’s not a negative. You get much of the juiciness from the American Cheese, and the “dijonaise”. All this results in a very satisfying bite for burger lovers, and most likely haters. Hence the long waits early on.

Its not a cheap burger if you opt to include the bacon and egg. Its $22 without, and just north of $30 with. Add the fries which I recommend sharing, and its way past your normal burger with fries price. But thats Manhattan for you these days. As for the rest of the menu, its actually quite interesting. I heard. I havent even glanced at it, but the many reports sound promising. Some, like Eater even claim, the burger is one of the least interesting items. But judging by how many burgers we’ve seen parading the room, good luck trying to order anything else.

Au Cheval
33 Cortlandt Alley (Tribeca)

Au Cheval

Categories: New York City, TriBeCa | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Blog at WordPress.com.