Sal Lamboglia’s Cafe Spaghetti has been on my radar since it opened pretty much. It only took me about a year to finally check it out, but thats pretty much my average in NYC for new places. Some places take much less, some I never make, and some sadly close by the time I’m finally ready. Its amazing how many dont see their one year anni. But over time I found a year is a good amount for an establishment to find its stride. Though this approach has its disadvantages as well.
This place has it all. A large backyard, a good size front porch and sidewalk space, a hefty buzz, a NYT seal of approval, and a menu that NYC essentially grew up with. Even the name, as playful and childish as it is, is catchy like a lady gaga tune (an earlier one). Catchy among adults and kids alike. What kid will say no to a Cafe Spaghetti, or Spaghetti. Yes, mindful of Celiac, although gluten free pasta is available.
Hence a backyard full of happy North Brooklyn families on an early Saturday night. In that part of Brooklyn, its family time, not so much senior time. Other than one fussy baby that I suspect thought his Fussili was overcooked, all extremely well behaved. Unlike the evening of one particular reviewer that deducted stars because kids were allowed to roam around. What exactly do you expect the staff to do.
The food for the most part was adequate, but the whole experience was more so. Good to see local beer selection, including Staten Island’s own Flagship. Mrs Z loved her Mezcalita and now demands I make it at home. Good food pacing, almost a rarity in NYC these days. And in true NYC 21st century, more than three menu sections, including a “Cicchetti” section that is not too distinguishable than the antipasti below.
Rice Balls (Arancini), topped with “Cacio e Pepe” was just solid enough to not require the typically accompanied red sauce. The oversalted Brussel Sprouts with Pepperoni wasnt as successful. It could have just relied on the salt from the meat. The pastas were more than serviceable. A solid Vongole, and Penne with a creamy garlic sauce and lump Maine crab, good even if could have used more of the advertised heat.
The one glaring miss was a semi dry and uneventful Chicken Francese. Growing up with this staple we were curious about Sal’s interpretation, but it wasnt much of an upgrade over any Staten Island/south Brooklyn pizzeria for roughly half of the cost. The undisputed star, piece de resistance was a piece of dad’s Tiramisu. Just moist enough, just creamy enough, just perfect enough.
A fun, albeit uneven meal. I can see why Pete Wells calls it the Anti-Carbone, but overall it falls short of the promised ode to the classic neighborhood Italian. The Manhattan style, extra large, overly proper staff wont remind you of any Outer Borough red sauce Italian. Half of the staff comically tried to take our unfinished pastas away as they were trained to do. Just seems like “too many cooks” outside the kitchen. Its unclear if the true aim is for a neighborhood Italian, or destination Italian. But a solid new option for the Park Slopers and Carroll Gardeners nonetheless.
Cafe Spaghetti
126 Union St (Columbia Street Waterfront District)
Recommended Dishes: Rice Balls, Vongole, Penne with Crab, Tiramisu
Eating With Ziggy 