We have a Sabra invasion in full swing and no one bats and eyelid, not even Trump. Einat Admony (Balaboosta, Bar Bolonat, Taim), Efraim Nahon (Taboon), Michael Solomonov (Dizengoff), Nir Mesika (Timna), and many more, including now Meir Adoni, an Israeli superstar opening his first in NYC. The falafel kingdom continues to expand with chainlets like Taim, and Nish Nush leading the way. And we even have a (sort of) Israeli bakery chain in Breads Bakery, whose owner is Adoni’s partner at Nur. Even my new favorite French dessert spot in East Village is owned by talented Israelis.
But something is missing in NYC, and that something has something to do with the title, and real estate. When I was in LA last time, we discovered a place called Itzik Hagadol (Big Isaac), a sprawling “fast-casual” (new phrase which I hate but use anyway) spot in Encino, serving Israeli classics like falafel, hummus, babaganoush, and things you dont normally find here like Mititei. I was into my second Shashlik when I realized… NYC doesnt really have one of those. If I want to take my extended family somewhere on a whim here, I wouldnt know where to go. But if I want to take my wife to a fancy Israeli or one that requires knowing the right people who can reserve a table for you 4 weeks in adavnce, I got plenty of options. Thats NYC for you, and the nature of Manhattan real estate. Either things are too fast, or too expensive. “Fast Casual” is lacking here.
So if Adoni wants to open an Adoni Hagadol, I wont even take royalties. He’s already off to a flying start, hotter than a Shakshuka in the Sinai. We werent quite sure what to expect from Israel’s culinary idol. And when we arrived, as often happens when we come back from an extended European trip, we are greeted with a jolt in the way of three greeters. I think on average the employee/diners ratio is roughly 5 times higher in NYC than anywhere in Europe. Why do we need three hosts!
But the good news is that almost nothing but greatness on those plates….
Honey and Garlic Challah – I gather that the first two breads on the menu are the highlights here, but I wanted to try something else. Besides, the Kubaneh and the Sesame Bagel, arent very unique to NYC anyway. You can get a similar Kubaneh with S’chug and other condiments at Timna, and a fine Jerusalem sesame bagel at Bar Bolonat. But the Challah was fine, doused with just enough honey and garlic on top, served with pickled onions, and creme fraiche. While we liked it, I secretly cried a little at night for not getting the Kubaneh after all!
Jerusalem Sesame Bagel – Hagadol serves a bigger sesame bagel. Nice and buttery, just like the bagels in Mahane Yehuda market, albeit 10 times pricier. And just like in Bar Bolonat it comes with Za’atar on the side, and an exceptional tehini-like Lima Bean Messbaha.
Date Doughnuts – Very good and very Mediterranean. Comes in two, along with this addictive curry Citrus Vinaigrette. By the end of the night I dipped everything in this thing including forks, fingers, car keys, and wife’s finger.
Damascus Qutayef – Essentially fried Lamb Pancake. This was fine. If I have to pick one dish I wouldnt order again, I think this is it. The sweet notes were a little overpowering for me. But the sides of Marcona almonds with cucumbers, and a gazpacho like yogurt chaser at least kept this interesting
Horias – Excellent! “Lamb Kebab in Pita” is more like mini lamb Shawarmas inside these perfectly crispy pitas with a hint of Amba (Mango condiment). As some of the other dishes it comes on top of old newspapers for some reason with some pickled veggies. You can munch while getting up to speed on the latest Cricket wives gossip
Eggplant Carpaccio – Possibly the dish to get here, which is ironic considering its the only vegetarian dish outside the bread category. Smoky, creamy, crunchy at times, and simply delicious. Not every bite is the same. The only minor quibble one might have is that the dish is listed under Big Plates but is more of an app. Its a big plate alright, but not the content. Possibly the eggplant to beat after Atoboy in NYC
Sea bass – Well cooked, supremely flavorful black bass, with more eggplant, Freekeh, Broccoli Rabe, and Spring Beans. Adoni clearly likes his eggplant which he features throughout.
Lamb – Two fine skinny tender lamb loins. Like the Seabass, all sorts of Meshugas on the plate like a Lentil salad, and what really stole the show for me, a Lamb and Bulgar filled onion. The “Mains” here made me appreciate Timna even more. I found a lot of similarities all over the menu but in particular the way the mains were constructed. Complex and ingredient heavy, but truly exceptional stuff
Nur
34 E 20th St (Brway/Park), Flatiron
Rating: Three Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that.
Recommended Dishes: Sesame Bagel, Date Doughnuts, Damascus Qutayef, Eggplant Carpaccio, Sea Bass, Lamb
The latest issue of W42st has a proud theme. Inside there’s a mini zine where you’ll find 5 Asian dishes I’m mostly proud of
They recycle their own sluts! I’m not quite sure what it means, but that is according to a sign inside. Either they employ people with extremely low standards or they are referring to their Eggslut sandwich, which is excellent. Either way, to my knowledge they are the first slut recyclers in the industry.
Unlike big brother Chef’s Club where you got a fuller assortment of famous chef’s recipes including guest appearances, the counter is all about a few rotating recipes available for lunch and breakfast. Every three months or so they will change entirely. So anything you eat now, say goodbye to it immediately, or take a few more months to enjoy. While they are preparing your slut, the rest of the team is hard at work trying to figure out its replacement. All enjoyed in a very comfortable, cafeteria like fast food setting. Order at the cashier, and wait for it.
We are well into Falafel season in New York City (April – March). I will make this one nice and painless, almost W42st pick-5 style. When I want a good Falafel these are the only places I consider. They are fairly spread out, so helps with your sightseeing, quick bite needs. I cant think of a better, more affordable snack in town other than a well crafted Falafel. For most of you EWZ old timers, other than one place perhaps (Ba’al) this wont offer anything new.
Its fun to watch the hype machine in play in NYC, and see how things develop. While I read all the Hot and Buzz lists out there as everyone else, I learned over time sometimes the hard way, that things are not always what they seem. A name and/or a little bit of money, at minimum $3000 is needed to market yourself as such. An alum of something good in the world… Noma, EMP, Contra, tickles your interest, with a picture of something beautiful that is cooked for two weeks straight, seals the deal. “Brian is a recent graduate of Betty’s school of Hospitality and Accounting” is not gonna be nearly as sexy.
A slight variation to my usual best soups of Hell’s Kitchen post. This month its part of the food issue on W42st. Mooncake Foods and their sick Wonton soup is sadly no more, so needed to replace it with Pam which made the list twice in a row. The only news here to veteran readers is the inclusion of Chong Quing Xiao Mian Noodles. Try saying it just once. As usual you will find Ziggy’s EatList at the small Zine inside the magazine distributed all over the neighborhood. This month’s issue matched my couch perfectly so we may keep it as furniture for a little longer this time.
Well, its been a heck of a start! The tours, particularly the Brooklyn tour have evolved nicely. With so many of you taken or in the process of taking all three tours, I started working on a 4th. It may take a while to design this one, and I cant quite say where it will be exactly (mainly because I’m not sure myself), but it will be Downtown somewhere.
Tip Free Pasquale Jones 
Eating With Ziggy 