See what I did there? Hope the title makes sense to some of you. Humor, or whatever you call this, doesnt always translate well on the internet, but of course I never learn. Even the Chalong post below that I wrote in July of this year made me cringe and so I corrected it to “cringe light”.
Anywho, this is just a friendly reminder that Chalong in Thai heavy Hell’s Kitchen is a strong candidate for NYC’s best or one of the best Thai. It’s not impossible, but hard to imagine a more well rounded, flavor rich menu. We had another epic meal last week, and this time we brought some of the fiercest food critics we know, our children. Conclusion: 10 big, sweaty thumbs up.
The notable additions this time to all the awesomeness mentioned below is the beef fried rice, and Massaman Duck Confit. A good Massaman Duck that features just the right balance of sweet and tang with super tender Duck is hard to find. In fact the last time I had a good one was in Philly.
I know I havent been posting much about my hometown lately. Been travelling quite a bit, and had a fare share of mediocre meals here as of late (I’m looking at you Da Toscano). Another reason is that I’ve been having some weird, random health issues lately, but I’m all good now, ready to go.
Well, the people of Reddit have spoken, after putting together the Brooklyn picks. For Manhattan I grouped them instead of creating another map (Brooklyn is huge). And just like with Brooklyn, there are certain areas as you can see where I dont spend much time. UWS and UES are just too far, and not as interesting, while Midtown East and Times Square are hotel/tourist heavy, with minimal parking, and more suited for business lunches. Rarely anything interesting opens there.
I also think its time to retire the Z-List. I’ve been managing it for many years, and I’ve had many people commenting on how useful it is. But a list of 30 that covers a large area, no matter how often updated, can run its course. I know some rely on it, but I think its better to rely on its Brooklyn and Manhattan list replacements at this point. I will leave the Z-List up for a while to give people a chance to say goodbye 😉
I will update these lists often. This one is more or less from south to north, with the borders stretched on occasion to fit everyone…
Tribeca
Nish Nush – One of the best if not the best Falafels in the city for a few decades now.
Au Cheval – Go for the sick burger, stay for the Mac & Cheese.
LES / Chinatown
Ginger and Lemongrass – Pretty much for the spicy lemongrass soup.
Shu Jiao Fu Zhou – Hard to beat for a quick cheap dumplings and noodles.
Spicy Village – Slightly uncomfortable but exceptional Chinese. Try the dumplings and Big Tray of Chicken
Uncle Lou’s – Got a little too touristy lately but this is where I’d go for Cantonese right now
Katz’s Deli – The Pastrami Temple. Mega touristy for a reason
Corima – Affordable, superb creative Mexican
Nolita / Little Italy
Thai Diner – Super popular for a reason. Try to come at Off-peak hours
Wayan – Vongerichten Jr doing all kinds of Indonesian/French magic
19 Cleveland – Excellent all around Israeli
Tomiño Taberna Gallega – NYC’s best if not only pure Galician. Meaning get the Octopus
Figo il Gelato – Fig/Ricotta Gelato when fresh is hard to beat
Soho
Raoul’s – A celebrated old French Bistro.
San Carlo Osteria Piemonte – Almost does Italy’s top food region justice. Order from the Piemonte menu
Rivareno Gelato – I’m an ice cream junky and this is my favorite Gelato these days. Especially appreciate the northern flavors
Pinch Chinese – Outstanding elevated Chinese. A favorite since they opened pretty much
Greenwich Village
Anton’s – I follow certain chefs I admire, until they call the cops 😉 Nick Anderer (Mailino, Marta) did an amazing job curating a great menu at Anton’s. He’s now doing his magic at his second, Leon’s (great lunch so far). Love the brunches here too.
L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele – While not exactly the same as the Napoli original, a fancy pizzeria with a full menu
Jeju Noodle Bar – I preferred this Korean before the Michelin star, but its still outstanding
Balaboosta – The flagship of one of the most celebrated Israeli chefs.
Song’ e Napule – If I have to pick just one pizzeria
Leitao – Superb Portuguese. One of my favorite discoveries in the last few years
Via Carota – Possibly the most well rounded Italian we have. Popular for a reason
Dell’anima – Italian in West Village is having a moment. Just moved back after many years deep in Hell’s Kitchen. Exceptional pastas and chicken.
East Village
Foxface Natural (Temporarily closed) – From a tiny Sandwich shop to creative Michelin style dining.
Hearth – A reliable old timer and the creator of Brodo.
Fiaschetteria “Pistoia” – The closest we have to eating in a Tuscan village
Carnitas Ramirez – Possibly best tacos in NYC today.
Danny & Coop’s Cheesesteaks – Yes, worth the hype.
Spice Brothers – When a spice master opens a fast food Middle Eastern. Worth checking out
Nowon – Our go-to for a simple burger, rice cakes and more.
Claude – Josh Pinsky is another chef I follow for a while, from the Momofuku days in this case.
Flatiron / Gramercy
L’Express – One of the most reliable Brasseries in the city, aging like a fine Bordeaux
Olle – No shortage of great Korean in the area, but you’ll be hard pressed to find better Galbi Jjim
Ulivo – Nice all around Italian, good pizza, and a plethora of fresh pastas by a talented Sardinian
Milu – Fast food Chinese like no other.
Rezdora – Pricy high caliber Italian, especially the pastas, inspired by Emilia Romagna
Chelsea
Jun-Men Ramen – Good ramen but even better non Ramen items like the Mazemen and wings.
Tia Pol / Txikito / Salinas – Three excellent Spanish all timers, near each other. All quite different. I frequent Tia Pol more only because its more accessible.
Hell’s Kitchen
Frena – Elevated middle eastern by a seasoned chef, now owner. Taboon 2.0 for those who remember.
Chalong Southern Thai – Probably best Thai in Hell’s Kitchen today, if not Manhattan.
Danji – Former Michelin Korean. Nice comeback story after a devastating fire
Chi – Solid, stylish Szechuan with a twist
Don Antonio – Legit Neapolitan pies. Just about as good as it gets.
Pure Thai Cookhouse – Legendary Thai in Thai heavy Hell’s Kitchen
UWS
Pig and Khao – Used to frequent the LES location. Same menu as far as I know.
Hell’s Kitchen needs another Thai restaurant like I need a stone in my sandals. When that happens, do you try to kick it out for 20 minutes or are you normal? I can just remove my shoes, but I’m so close, and there’s no satisfaction whatsoever if you do it the easy way
But as far as Thai food in Hell’s Kitchen goes, its not really a matter of need. The more the merrier, to keep everyone on their toes. Its an embarrassment of Thai riches. While most visitors pair their Broadway show with the classic pre theatre options east of 9th, those in the know think Thai food on 9th or beyond.
Chalong opened about two years ago by three Thai food veterans. To open a spot so close to Pure Thai Cookhouse and LumLum requires a particular set of tools, Liam Nissan style. And Nate Limwong who worked at Fish Cheeks and Soothr might just have the right tools. She grew up in Surat Thani, somewhere between Bangkok and Malaysia in Southern Thailand, hence bringing a fresh take to the hood.
Thai cuisine in NYC can essentially be categorizes into North, Middle, South, with the middle being most familiar to Americans. Northern cuisine had a nice run about 5-10 years, and now catching up at a slower pace. But New Yorkers generally not too familiar with Southern Thai. Much of the land is close to the sea which is reflected on the menus, but you also got the Southern interpretations of classics like Pad Thai which I wouldnt skip here.
At Chalong, not only the food is outstanding, but the room is comfortable and a bit more chic than some of the usual suspects. My old rule of thumb, go to the uglier looking Thai places in Hell’s Kitchen, is becoming just that, old and stale. The rule might have died when LumLum replaced Pam Real Thai. But in case you miss that oxtail soup, Pam is now cooking in Las Vegas at Mama Pam Real Thai Food.
The food rundown…
Jeeb Pu – Crab, shrimp, and pork dumplings. Essentially Shumai on crack. Get this.
Peek Gai Tod – Fantastic sizzling hot Chicken wings. All small ‘mid’ wings which are the best kind. They can carry more flavor, and usually crispier, as was the case here.
Sator Goog – A fiery combination of ground pork, stinky beans that look like Fava Beans, shrimp and curry paste. Waiter warned that its Thai spicy but it was more like borderline. Needless to say, Mardi Gras in your mouth.
Crab Curry – As good and well balanced as they get. Includes a small crispy soft shell crab for good measure.
Tom Som Pla – Nice southern style Tom Yum soup with Chilean sea bass chunks and Enoki mushrooms of all sizes. I think I enjoyed the Enkoi more than the fish which wasnt bad at all. The rest of the group found it over lemongrassed, but I didn’t mind.
Mee Pum Riang – Southern style Pad Thai with shrimp. One of my friends cant tolerate too much spice so figured we’ll try it. It still had just enough heat, and was actually one of the better dishes. The coconut curry cream really transforms it, in the looks dept as well. Go!
Chalong 749 9th Ave (Hell’s Kitchen) Recommended Dishes: All of the above
When you visit a place when the chef/owner is on vacation in NYC its not necessarily a bad thing. In super competitive NYC it most likely means the well oiled machine is intact and the boss can take a breather. In Frena’s case it meant we visited at the right time. I gave it about a year after old EWZ darling Taboon closed due to a nasty fire and reincarnated three years later as Frena. Not being in the business, it’s a small mystery why restaurants take so long to recover after a fire (See Danji). Some never do.
I’ve been a fan of Taboon pretty much since I started this blog. One of the points I always stressed was that if you survive that long in that location, you are doing something right. Anything west of 9th Ave, the Hell’s Kitchen border for most tourists, should pique your interest. Efi Naon, the mega talented head chef at Taboon understood that he had something special there, and reopened the place along with a frequent Taboon patron.
Taboon 2.0 feels more like 1.2. A new version where much of the old menu items are still there, and the concept is pretty much the same. Elevated “Middle-terranean” with the Taboon oven in the center of things. even the name Frena has a similar meaning to the old name. Frena is the community oven in a Moroccan village (Naon is Moroccan Israeli), and also the name of the fluffy Moroccan pita. In my East Village tours I introduced guests to the Frena pita, which I can still smell.
This meal was not a whole lot different than my Taboon meals over the years, except that it was simply better. Just about every item felt like an improved version of the previous, along with some new Italian flair to boot. Its an ambitious menu that’s common in Middle Eastern. Leave it to Anon, who trained all over Europe including a three Michelin in France, to perfect it.
Just like Taboon, every meal at Frena starts with their terrific “Frena Bread”. A rarity for such quality bread, dusted with a bit of salt and za’atar, to be free these days. But if your group is more than two, chances are you’ll need another ($9), especially if you get the 5 dips deal. All dips were exceptional, especially the Cauliflower hummus.
For the middle course we opted for the said Italian flair. I mean how bad can braised oxtail Tortellini on top of Sabzi Persian herb stew be? Turned out to be one of the highlights of the night. Roasted eggplant with tomato and Stracciatella was like eggplant Parm on steroids. You wouldn’t be disappointed with those dishes at a Rezdora, or any of the Michelin Italian.
Its best to share some of the big plates here. Old signature Lamb kebabs cooked in Terra Cotta pots covered with bread as satisfying as ever. We absolutely demolished it. The butterflied Branzino lightly drizzled with sage chimichurri looked like a piece of art at the Louvre, and significantly more exciting than the old Branzino.
Just like in Taboon, you finish with the transformative Silan – Tahini ice cream, caramelized rice crispies, almonds, halva, date syrup. A marching band in your mouth. There are some dishes that changed the way I eat at home, and this is one of them (Mesa Grill’s eggs is another). Every other dessert will pale in comparison, but a good Knaffe rarely disappoints, and no exception here.
Extremely large menus, showy instagrammable dishes, multiple truffle dishes is generally a turnoff for me when it comes to Chinese food. Avoid, avoid, avoid. In Hell’s Kitchen especially, the best food is so often found in unassuming places that dont welcome you with chandeliers and mini skirts. This is why it took me over a year to finally try this buzzy Chinese. Besides, just about all my favorite unassuming places in HK are now closed (enter winking, tongue out, wacky emoji).
But sometimes you just have to trust the reviews, and go with your gut. After staring at Chi pictures for longer than I’d like to admit, my gut told me, try it. Maybe I should treat food research just like food supplements and medicine. Consume with food. Best time to go food shopping is on a full stomach, they say. That didnt help me at Costco yesterday. I had no idea I was into Biscotti bigger than my head. How do I even dip this monster.
Simply put, Chi is terrific, and I was wrong to question it. In fact, its some of the best Chinese I’ve had in Hell’s Kitchen in years. The menu reads as if they had a meeting, and the person in charge said yes to every single suggestion. Soup dumplings? Yes! How about other Dim Sum items? Why not, in fact lets have a section. How about some Szechuan? Hmm, its tough to choose, lets do all of them including seafood. Ooh, how about pork belly presented like a pyramid. YAS!!!!! Oh, you may not like this one but how about some American dishes like Chicken with Broccoli. Duh! Its America, lets have another section including two different General Tso’s for good measure.
The space is attractive, comfortable, and the prices are fair. Friendly, spot-on service with one noteworthy feature, important to me. When it was time to pay, the waitress whipped the machine from her pocket, informed me of the cost, and we settled on the spot. Something very common in Europe, but not so much in the US. One of my biggest pet peeves is when they finally give me the check after begging for it for 20 minutes, they assume I need another 20 minutes to examine the three items on it.
As for the food, not a dud in the house. Every visit should start with their Cucumber salad. Doesnt sound exciting, but trust uncle Ziggy. It’s chunkier than the typical, and it comes with the kind of vinegar you’ll want to drink like a smoothy. Being a decent size, it may last throughout the entire meal, and with all the heat that will follow, you’ll appreciate it. It went well with everything we ate.
Another thing you’ll appreciate is the Dan Dan Noodles. The theme at Chi is not being shy with the ingredients. Nothing is dull, and nothing overpowering. The peanut and chili here pop just enough. Eggplant with garlic sauce was pretty much what you expect from a place like this. Again, big flavors. The only issue was that it needed some time to cool off. 20 minutes later it still hurt so good.
Similar story with the Chongquing Spicy Chicken. Unlike others we had lately, plenty of Mala, pleasant heat, and the chicken is properly cut, bone-in. Sometimes they cut them too small and all you taste is Mala. For nostalgic reasons we felt like trying one of the General Tso’s, “Lao-Gan-Ma General Tso’s”. Nicely cooked, spicier than usual. Just wish the balls were a little smaller. Go!
Chi Restaurant & Bar 492 9th Ave (37th, Hell’s Kitchen) Recommended Dishes: Cucumber salad, Dan Dan Noodles, Eggplant with garlic sauce, Chongquing Spicy Chicken, Lao-Gan-Ma General Tso’s
I apologize in advance for what you are about to read. Let’s just say I got a little bored with the usual format. You can just scroll down to the bottom line if thats what you want. This is a typical meal with my girls (two daughters, one wife).
Family member: “Where are we going for Father’s Day”
Dad: “Sicily Osteria”
Family member: “Ooooh, where’s that”
Dad: “Hmm, Hell’s Kitchen”
Family member: “Yas!!!!!”
Family member: “Sweet!!”
(Family approaches restaurant)
Family member: “What in the actual fuck”
Dad: “Its actually “what the actual fuck”, without the in”
Family member: “Who are you and what did you do with my dad”
Dad: “I will explain”
Family member: “I thought you said Hell’s Kitchen”
Dad: “It’s technically Hell’s Kitchen. Remember I used to give food tours here”
Family member: “Who are all these strange looking people”
Dad: “They are tourists”
(Family settles in a nice table outside)
Family member: “Explain!”
Dad: “Well, this place opened about a year ago. The menu is as Sicilian as it gets, the chef worked at Osteria Morini, and Marea. The owners are from…”
Family member: “Oooh Limoncello Spritz, I’ll have that”
Family member: “Please dont tell me you are ordering the sardine ragu special”
Dad: “I think the waiter meant Pasta Con le Sarde.”
Family member: “I dont know what that means”
Dad: “You had it in Palermo and you liked it. Its the one with the raisins”
(food starts to arrive)
Family member: “Yummmm!!! Love the pita chips”
Dad: “Its actually Pannelle, made from chickpeas”
Family member: “Wow, best Arancini ever”
Dad: “Its Arancino, since its one. And yeah this is yummy”
Family Member: “Whats up with the schweddy balls”
Dad: Thats Crocche, fried potato balls”
Family member: “Why is everyone so old looking”
Dad: “Tourists tend to be older. This is not East Village”
Family member: “Nor Hell’s Kitchen evidently”
Dad: “It’s called Restaurant Row, technically Hell’s Kitchen”
Family member: “So what is the deal with this place anyway”
Dad: “Well, owners are actually from Sicily. They also own bocca di bacco, and…
Family member: “So, what is everyone watching?”
Family member: “Black Mirror is out!”
Family member: “OMG I love that show!”
(more food arrives)
Family member: “Any guesses what Italian region the waiter is from”
Dad: “I think he is from the region of Venezuela”
Family member: “What about the chef. What region is he from?”
Dad: “Actually he grew up in a Kibbutz in Israel. His name is Asi Maman and he’s very talented.”
Family member: “So no one here is actually Italian, and this is supposedly Hell’s Kitchen. Ok, got it”
Family member: “Well this pasta is yummy, but weird looking”
Dad: “Its Busiate alla Trapanese, and I agree its delicious”
Family member: “Let me guess, another Palermo specialty?”
Dad: “No, Trapani. Its in the name, and we ate this there”
Family member: “Sorry again for throwing out your #1 dad mug”
Dad: “What will remind me now”
Family member: “You are ruining the surprise”
Family member: This Couscous needs more Couscous”
Dad: “Its done on purpose like that so it wont absorb all the broth. It makes for tastier seafood”
Family member: “This is sick! How did you find this place”
Dad: “Yellow Pages”
Family member: “You know, your dad jokes dont work well with us”
Dad: “I found it on Eater when it first opened, looked at the menu, and..”
Family member: “I dont know what to wear tomorrow”
Family member: “They say rain in the AM’
(pistachio lava cake arrives)
Family member: “OMG, OMG”
Family member: “Slay!”
Dad: “I think I just peed a little”
Family member: “You really need to see someone about that”
Family member: “I dont know why we continue to doubt you”
Family member: “Good pick dad!”
The Bottom Line: Surprisingly strong meal among the tourists. Restaurant Row changed a little during the last few years due to the pandemic as some places had to close and new owners dont want to keep relying on tourists. While I think the change is temporary, places like Sicily Osteria, and EAK Ramen are probably here to stay (I hope). Sicily Osteria instantly becomes one of the most interesting Italian in HK, and perhaps the most authentic Sicilian menu in NYC. The pastas lean on the sweet side as its done in the south, but enjoyable nonetheless.
Sicily Osteria 330 W 46th St (Hell’s Kitchen) Recommended Dishes: Pannelle, Arancino, Crocche, Busiate, Couscous, Pistachio Lava Cake
Long time EWZ readers, both of them, may remember Pam Real Thai, a Hell’s Kitchen staple for many years. I spent countless hours at Pam slurping on spicy Kee Mao Noodles and the legendary oxtail soup while staring at the slightly crooked portrait of Pam on the wall. The room, with its wooden furniture was comfortable but not particularly attractive. And there was often a slightly unpleasant smell to match the atmosphere. The menus were decades old, with items crossed out with a pen or stickers. But boy, was the food good.
On my Hell’s Kitchen tours, in front of another legend, Gazala’s Place, I used to talk about one of the underlying rules of eating in the area, especially when it comes to Thai food. The worse the place looked, the better the food, and the more local the clientele. A place featuring attractive chandeliers and wall to wall mirrors, usually also features sweet curries of every rainbow color and mostly tourists. But with the growing young demographic of the area, there’s just so much you can rely on locals. Both Gazala’s and Pam are no more.
Resy
Pam’s replacement LumLum (sort of means “yum” – and yes LumLum – Yum Yum is taken) is a stunner in comparison to Pam’s. And its doing its best to debunk the looks theory. While its different in every way, the food, from what I tried so far, is top notch. Instead of the empty room of Pam’s (mainly at lunch time), and the ability to eavesdrop on Broadway executives, its now a packed house of hungry young FOMOs. Which also means forget about lingering here. Expect to finish within an hour, with drooling vultures waiting by the door at peak times.
But its all worth the effort. To open a Thai place in Hell’s Kitchen requires some major Chutzpah. While I still have a soft spot for Pure Thai Cookhouse nearby, I find LumLum the most interesting Thai in Hell’s Kitchen today, and a safer recommendation. Even though I required a second visit to reach this conclusion. LumLum did not only transform the venue, but the neighborhood back to a Thai powerhouse. Here’s the food rundown…
Moo Krob – Fried pork belly. Nice and crispy. Got a bit boring midway, but possibly because I had it solo.
Kra Prow – Thai Basil with minced chicken (choice pf protein). Serviceable classic. A tad on the sweet side which was surprising considering it got two peppers. Their pepper indication should be taken with a grain of pepper.
Steamed fish – Whole fish, whether steamed or fried is one of the specialties here, and this one did not disappoint. Expertly cooked Branzino, with a particularly complementary cilantro lime broth.
Crying Tiger – Possibly the signature here. The steak tasted better than the picture shows, but it was the garlic rice with the crispiness from the shallots, and funky sweetness from the sauce that make this work so well.
Pad Ki Mao – My kryptonite when it comes to Thai food. Not “Thai Spicy” as the chart says, but as spicy as Ki Mao should be, and as flavorful as they come. Although next time I would opt for the seafood option over chicken. You get a choice of Tofu, chicken, beef, mixed seafood, or crab. Leave the crab for…
Nam Ya Poo (turmeric coconut curry with crab and rice noodles on the side) – This was oddly closer to the advertised “Thai Spicy” and had pretty good depth. Dipping the rice noodles in that bowl was food magic. Probably favorite dish here.
Squid ink soup – Didn’t have it but worth noting as its another specialty here. I was mainly concentrating on shareable dishes
Coconut Sticky Rice with Mango – Good for what it is. Not quite as polished as the version at Pure Thai Cookhouse
While the complete makeover made the place much more attractive in and out, LumLum popularity makes it a tad less comfortable than it’s predecessor. The kitchen is like a machine, programmed to get all your dishes out in a timely manner, so you might get them all at the same time. And the table arrangements make for a tight fit. On my second visit, when one of us needed to go to the restroom, we had to draw a plan. Who moves where, and how to avoid bumping into other diners. And in addition to not quite being “Thai Spicy”, its also not quite as “Thai Friendly” as one can expect. But the last time I checked, this is a blog about food. Go!
LumLum 404 W 49th St (Hell’s Kitchen) Recommended Dishes: Steamed Fish, Crying Tiger, Pad Ki Mao, Nam Ya Poo
In NYC of course. This is not a Puglia blog yet as the last three posts suggest, although much more on Puglia coming soon. I’ve been living in NYC for 36 years now, and I dont remember a more exciting time for Italian dining. Even though The prices are moving in the opposite direction. A full meal at a mid price, full service restaurant now averages $175 for two (source: EWZ Stats), up from $150 not too long ago. But the competitive environment has never seen levels like these before. A glut of new Italian immigrants has turned the Italian scene upside down where Italian/Italian is the new American/Italian especially in Manhattan and north Brooklyn. Cacio e Pepe is the new Chicken Alfredo, and Neapolitan pizza joints are opening at faster pace than NY style it seems. Its a pizza revolution of sorts, although a complete pizza transition wont happen in my lifetime.
The title of this post is oxymoronic in a way since there are literally 100’s of underrated Italian in NYC today. But I’ll focus on five places that are much easier to reserve (unlike Don Angie, Lilia, Ci Siamo, Rezdora, and so many), and may bring you similar levels of joy.
Dell’anima (Hell’s Kitchen) – The easiest pick of the bunch. Best Italian in Hell’s Kitchen historically has been a mystery, just like the glut of Thai restaurants in HK. Mercato held that claim for some time IMO, but ever since Dell’anima moved to Gotham West Market (conquered really as there’s not much left there these days. Even Ivan Ramen is no more) it established itself as the one to beat. While tourists continue to flock to places like Becco for the quantity, locals line up chef Andrew’s counter for the quality. I dont recall ever having a less than stellar dish here. You cant go wrong with menu staples like Tajarin Alla Carbonara, and Pollo al Diavolo, but I wouldnt hesitate ordering new additions and specials. The location, and being inside a food hall of course has something to do with the underrated tag.
Pollo al Diavolo
Ulivo (NoMad) – Talking about Mercato, long time readers should not be surprised to see it’s little sister here. With that said, somehow Ulivo managed to outgrow it’s sister, and establish itself as a solid choice in an extremely competitive area. That’s partly due to the talents of Sardinian born Emanuel Concas who figured out the right formula after years at Mercato and six years now at Ulivo. What you get is top notch ingredients, solid pizza, and a plethora of fresh pasta dishes, their bread and butter. You’ll find some hard to find Sardinian and Sicilian autocorrect specialties like Malloreddus with sausage ragu, and the simple but outstanding Busiate with almonds, fresh tomato, basil and garlic. No Secondis here. Instead, order another drink from the award winning bartender.
Busiate
Faro (Bushwick) – This is another no brainer. A Michelin star recipient (yay Michelin!) only to lose it a few years later (oh who cares about Michelin!). Faro is being too modest when it bills itself as a simple neighborhood Italian. Neighborhood Italian dont do Cappelletti stuffed with sweet corn purée, topped with a slow cooked short rib ragu. I could have just ended the previous sentence after Cappelletti. This is one example of a rotating, masterfully executed seasonal pastas. I believe only the Bucatini with confit chicken has been on the menu longer than a year. And they ought to bring the sick Gnocchi Alla Romana back. Its more of a destination Italian. The problem with Faro is the most likely reason its on this list. Its kind of Faro, as in deep in the heart of Bushwick. But Bushwick, thanks to the growing list of mega clubs like Avant Gardner is slowly becoming a nightlife mecca.
Cappelletti
Popina (Columbia Street Waterfront District) – It was fun seeing Popina grow over the years, and somehow remain true to itself. On my first visit. I expected the short menu to change and expand at some point to accommodate the masses, but thankfully it never did. Chris Mcdade’s stints with places like Maialino and Marta, his southern roots, and unconditional love for anchovies help create a fun, concentrated menu. Items rotate frequently but if they ever remove the signature spicy Chicken Milanese, expect local strikes. On a recent visit one particular Monkfish dish really showcased the tiny kitchen’s range. The team is opening Gus’s Chop House in nearby Carroll Gardens, sort of a gastropub.
Monkfish
Song’E Napule (Greenwich Village) – You can skim through 120 best pizza in NYC lists and you wont find anyone singing the praises of Song’E Napule. You will need to look at an Italian publication like Gambero Rosso which we probably should be doing anyway when it comes to pizza. The name has nothing to do with singing. It just means “from Napoli” in Neapolitan dialect. But if you are a fan of the Neapolitan style you’ll be belting out romantic tunes to your neighbor, Napoli great Diego Maradona on the wall. Legit oven, proper ingredients, and a capable pizzaiolo results in light and airy awesomeness. As genuine as it gets in NYC.
A much needed update to the “Bread and Butter” of this blog. Seven year old Hell’s Kitchen Survival Guide still outperforming all other posts year after year. The Z-List and the Turks & Caicos page complete the top three. There are many sources for Hell’s Kitchen out there today but I truly believe this is still the most comprehensive and up to date of the bunch. Most HK guides written by people who dont spend much time there and/or dont really understand the area well. But enough about me…
Whats new in 2020? Mexican, Thai, Ramen, Korean continue to dominate, so naturally three additions fall into that group. I’m seeing more and more Chinese/NOLA style boils popping on 9th, and a slow moving shift from East Village (either opening more locations or moving). Its good news for HK but a little sad because it means owners relying a bit more on tourists. Still, that didnt save some of the places that closed lately like Gloria (I tell ya that location is cursed).
Dropped from the list:
Otto’s Tacos – Still like the shrimp tacos, but getting a little inconsistent. Mentoku Ramen – Just prefer EAK and the old-guards Benares – Closed Gloria – Closed Merilu Pizza – Closed
Added to the list:
E.A.K. Ramen Hell’s Kitchen – My Ramen of choice these days. First successful infiltration of IEKEI (pronounced EAK) style Ramen in NYC, albeit on tourist heavy restaurant row (46th) for some reason.
UOGASHI – This is it! The Holy Grail in this Sushi deprived Kitchen. An East Village import. The space housed a different sushi place which explains why it took me 6 months to realize and try it.
Le Sia – Its one of those rare situations where I add a place to the guide before my first visit. I’m well too familiar with Le Sia in East Village and what these guys are capable of. Its a very fresh opening. Expect fiery Chinese style crawfish/crab boils, BBQ skewers, and the type of authenticity the neighborhood isnt used to.
Tulcingo Del Valle – Shame on me for waiting this long to add this one. I just never took it very seriously I suppose. A 20 year old Pueblan feels like the last of the neighborhood bodegas. No shortcuts, fresh or bust approach is the secret.
Alan’s Kitchen Mexican Cuisine – This one is a tentative addition as its new and I’ve only been once, but the Carnitas here so far are Mission-esque (Mission District is a Mexican paradise of sorts in SF). The tacos are so good I hear Los Tacos nearby are changing their name to #2
Tacos, one of the four pillars of Hell’s Kitchen. Thai, Ramen, and bars are the other three. I cant think of many Hell’s Kitchen corners where you are not less than 5 minutes away from good tacos. But try telling that to the 100 or so poor souls standing on a long line in freezing temps at Los Tacos #1 (or is it #2) in Times Square because their notes say so. Oh its good alright. But in this Little Puebla there are options. Many options.
Carnitas at Alan’s Kitchen Mexican Cuisine – The newest kid on the block may very well be the best of all. No alcohol license as of this writing, but the kitchen dishes out some of the juiciest pulled pork and Carne Asada (top pic) around. Perhaps the closest you can get to Mission (San Francisco) quality. 339 W 44th St (8/9)
Shrimp at Otto’s Tacos – Small shrimp but with a lot of Chutzpah. Smartly seasoned, served with Serrano cream and onions. Slightly inconsistent as of late, but when they are on they are on. And when they are not, they are still one of the better shrimp tacos out there. 705 9th Ave (48/49)
Al Pastor at Tulcingo Del Valle – One of the old guards on 10th. When neighbor Tehuitzingo unexpectedly shuttered, the other T became the king of Al Pastor. You cant mix and match here, so bring friends, or a bigger appetite. Or both. 665 10th Ave (46/47)
Carnitas at Tacuba – This is the entree, not the “tacos”. Although the small designer tacos are good here as well. Order the Carnitas main and manufacture your own tacos. Its hard to screw up with that wonderfully greasy suckling pig featuring plenty of crispy Chicharron. 802 9th Ave (54/53)
Oyster Mushroom at La Palapa – While everyone else is offering just boring cactus, the newest taco joint in Gotham West Market has the most impressive array of Veggie tacos. The mushroom here works very well with the Chihuahua cheese and Pasilla peppers. Its like a Russian Mushroom Julienne taco. 600 11th Ave (44/45)
A much needed update to the “Bread and Butter” of this blog. Seven year old Hell’s Kitchen Survival Guide still outperforming all other posts year after year. The Z-List and the Turks & Caicos page complete the top three. There are many sources for Hell’s Kitchen out there today but I truly believe this is still the most comprehensive and up to date of the bunch. Most HK guides written by people who dont spend much time there and/or dont really understand the area well. But enough about me…
Added to the list:
Eating With Ziggy 