Just a heads up. As much fun as it was playing Amazing Race, I have to change the meetup location of the East Village Tours. The old location 51 Astor Place proved to be too confusing, especially when I discovered the arrow on the actual meetup building, 30 feet from the location, sends people to Broadway. The new location is nearby, also on Astor Place, but much less confusing. I think…
New Location: 26 Astor Pl, in front of Chase Bank. http://tinyurl.com/hv8478g
To describe East Village is like trying to describe our presidential race. One of a kind bizarre, full of characters, twists and turns, and an extremely complicated history. In some ways East Village reminds me of Sicily. A long history of invasions of different peoples, cultures, and a lot of pain. Like Sicily, seeing it is like seeing layers of paint. And watching that paint while munching on an Israeli Bourekas, Philipino Lumpia, or a Xi’an spicy chicken wing is like… “Making watch paint great again!” Or something like that.
Like the Hell’s Kitchen food tour, no tour will be the same. We will have a few sit downs in some carefully selected spots that will differ from tour to tour. Some of them I’ve been enjoying for years, while some discovered recently. Unlike other food tours where strategic deals are made with the establishments regardless of quality, quality comes first. (oh boy, I’m starting to sound like Crazy Eddy)
While one may question the validity of Hell’s Kitchen being a hot food neighborhood (historically it hasnt been), you wont hear similar arguments about East Village. Its arguably the best food neighborhood on the east coast. Its not only extremely diverse, but well represented in any “Best Of” discussion. From soup dumplings (Xiaolongbao) to BBQ ribs, to tacos.
We will pass by some important sights that helped shape the neighborhood and really NYC overall. Plenty of history and photo opportunities
We will follow the Mosaic Trail.
You will hear stories that will bring the area to life. Stories and events that even most New Yorkers arent aware of. Some involve celebrities living in the East Village.
Small, private groups (up to 5 people) will enable you to experience the neighborhood like no large groups can. I dont even need a microphone nor a pole with a chicken attached to it. The only chickens you may see will be on skewers.
The timing of the tour 2-6 allows me to introduce you to some of these places and people in a more comfortable, relaxing pace, avoiding the crowds of lunch and dinner. I try to finish by 6, although sometimes we have some fun and stay a little longer. If you have a show to catch however, you will not have a problem.
$60 per person (for now)
Meet at 11:00 am at 26 Astor Pl, in front of Chase Bank. http://tinyurl.com/hv8478g
For any inquiries and availability email EatingWithZiggy@gmail.com
March 26, 2017 Update:
At Tompkins Square Park, just east of Timna, there’s a Temperance fountain, constructed in late 19th century to help locals with their alcohol self restrain. Drink water, avoid booze. Sounds easy enough. A primarily German neighborhood did all it could to maintain the legacy, up until the prohibition. Today the park is surrounded by bars!
No such temperance, self restrain luck with Timna’s new spring menu however. Dish after dish of dazzling combinations between the newcomers and the old heavyweights like the Kubaneh and Octopus, testing my self control and wallet. Like a fat kid in a candy story, I want to eat all you got, now!
Perhaps if fat kids would eat cauliflower like this, the world would be a healthier place. At Israeli establishments we are attracted to Cauliflower like Trump to Twitter. But it was the cured tuna Sashimi that stole the show yet again early on with all its visuals, textures and flavors. There was melt in your fork short rib with even better mushroom, and cheesy gnocchi done Roman style (Semolina).
The mains sealed the rare triple Z rating. Legendary octopus whisperer Nir Mesika dishes out killa Octopus which I already discussed in great length here and below. But on this night a new dish stole the show. Two hefty fillets of marvelously cooked Striped Bass with Israeli couscous (aka Pearl Couscous invented for the digestive challenged David Ben-Gurion, Israel’s first Prime Minister). I’ve been to places where one such fillet made the entire dish for the same price. Mesika feeds his diners like his children.
Chutzpah Nation is clicking on all cylinders. A full house of the young and the restless meant we belong alright, albeit texting was required sometimes to communicate. My dish descriptions dont describe very well in this case. There’s an art form to the way Mesika assembles each plate, with the goal to accommodate all senses. We havent run into many chefs with this style. From such a small kitchen come this ingredient heavy plating. Not every bite is the same, and in some cases you even scavenge hunt. Oooh, a raisin, I found a raisin! Lets look for another one. Mrs Z and I make our own fun!
June 22, 2016 Post:
I will make this one nice and simple for you. Pressing for time as of late, with only a week or so before I leave you yet again on another eating assignment (Sicily). This one will be the biggest and baddest assignment ever, with a lot of interesting surprises in store. Though I may be suffering from my first ever FRFS (food research fatigue syndrome). I’m now seeing Busiate in my sleep and sometimes even when awake, like while watching the Euro 2016 (Football/Soccer). As much as I’m enjoying the Euro’s, its best served as a rather harmless sleeping pill. A much needed one since I’m not getting enough sleep as of late due to the mating season in my bedroom. No, not what you think. Birds! male birds, doing the entire Hava Nagila rendition at 4:30 in the morning in order to attract their female counterparts.
East Village in June, as I was showing to my Aussie friends, feels like mating season as well. Its the east coast capital of pretty people. Friends that live there give 2nd Ave nicknames I can not repeat here. And on buzzy St Mark’s, in the middle of all that, you find little Timna, a modern Israeli joint with Nir Mesika (Zizi Limona, Milan, knows his hummus geography) at the helm. When I visited young Mesika in the kitchen, I was announced by the manager Downton Abbey style. The guy has all the talent and knowledge in the world, but has the look of someone in the early stages of a soccer career, rather than a world class chef.
Other than a slight discomfort at the rounded table at the back, with some A/C issues, this was a very enjoyable evening. Started with the infamous freshly baked Kubaneh that comes with some yogurt, a tomatoee salsa and “Jalapeno Salsa” which is essentially green Yemeni S’chug. If you have a Challah fetish, you will wet yourself over the taste and texture of this thing, and its a must get for groups especially (I wouldnt order it solo). But as with most bread courses out there, its a bit overrated, and serves as a sharp reminder that the free bread course days are just about over. Give me The Marshal french loaf with homemade butter any day of the week. The obligatory Cauliflower that you will find in every Israeli corner, did not disappoint. Here Mesika elevates it with curried yogurt, dried grapes among other deliciousness. A veg-ful burrata is more proof that a sprinkle of Za’atar (oil in this case) makes everything better.
Mesika assembled a playful menu with influences from all over the world (Chinatown salad!) especially in regards to the raw stuff. A Ceviche salad featuring mahi on this particular night was the weakest of the ones we tried. A fine tzatziki tartar with minced lamb delighted Mrs Ziggy especially. And the Mediterranean Sashimi featuring cured tuna, green Tabouli salad with quinoa, and crispy beat “leather” did the trick, including in the looks department A somewhat deconstructed lasagna featuring slow cooked tender spareribs, and Jerusalem artichoke chips is another example of Mesika’s playful brilliance.
But the most interesting dish of the night sounded the most boring, Bedouin Octopus. Mesika tenderizes, sous vide style, the heck out of this thing (I’m guessing by the size, it was enjoying the coast of the Portugal a few days prior). A bit softer than I like my octopuses. Then he finished it on an open flame like the Bedouin 200 kilometers south of Mesika’s home in Israel. This is by far the smokiest Octopus I’ve ever had, and one of the better, even while lacking the proper texture. We skipped dessert.
Brunch in Timna is another delicious event. And one of the better brunch values out there. For $25 you get a selection of small salads (salatim) to share, any of the entrees, coffee (very good), and the obligatory Mimosa. We sampled an average Hummus Masabacha which I’m not a big fan to begin with. A nice Sabich Croissant, though I still prefer my Sabichs in a pita. One of the better Shakshukas out there. And a very solid burger with fried egg.
Timna
109 St Marks Pl (1st/A)
Rating: Three Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that.
Recommended Dishes: Kubaneh, Cauliflower, Mediterranean Sashimi, Octopus, Fish, Shakshuka (brunch), Burger (brunch)
January 18th, 2018 Update:
Michelin season came and went, generating the usual fanfare and excitement, essential preventing most from noticing the more important stars being distributed. Around the same time, Momofuku Ssam Bar received 3 New Your Times Stars from Pete Wells, and only those in the restaurant industry got the memo. In fact I was told about it a few months ago by another chef when we talked about the all important subject of Skate (fish). The conversation led to Ssam Bar whose Skate helped earn the coveted stars.
The Skate is perhaps the biggest addition to the menu by Singapore born Max Ng who took over the helm last year. Its essentially a revolving door of Momofukus graduating from Ko to run the babies, Ssam, Nishi, Ma Peche, before moving on to other ventures around the world. You also get a sense of maturation these days, as the chief Fuku Mr Chang swaying from the idea of “if the food is good, they will come no matter what”, making Nishi and Ssam a lot more comfortable these days. Gone are the days of sharing a cramped communal table while studying the latest techniques in dish washing through a mountain of napkins.
And the food is of course the same old inventive awesomeness. Good enough in fact to earn three more hard earned stars from the chief editor of EWZ. Not sure what took me so long to finally try their Country Ham. Benton’s ham from Madisonville, TN was silky and salty alright, but the accompanied gravy with hints of espresso is enough reason to order a plate of Ham at Ssam Bar. Max’s additions like “Curry & Potatoes” with burrata, spinach, and Garam Marsala seasoning was more restrained for a Fuku establishment but still pleasant to the palate. When you finish it, you wish for some naan to properly scoop the leftovers. Roasted Cauliflower came surprisingly whole and flaky covered with just enough porky and lardo vinaigrette to keep it interesting. The Fried Sunchokes with eggs was a little bit more dull in comparison.
And then came the main events. The off menu rice cakes with the spicy ragu. The rice cakes got crunchier, and the ragu less spicy over the years, but this is still a must order. The grilled Flatiron was cooked to medium rare perfection, and probably the star with the family. They liked it more than the Skate. It arrived sitting on a banana leaf covered with shrimp Belacan, a funky fermented Malaysian shrimp paste. A little too much funk for my women, so I was enjoying most of it by myself. The smell, unlike from similar pastes like XO, is slightly off-putting, but the flavors are there. Although I found better results when combining the Skate meat with the porky ragu from the rice cakes. I’m ready for my Ko internship.
No dessert on this one since we are eating with the girls a mile within Spot Dessert Bar.
April 19, 2016 Post:
Servers have a tough job. We learn more and more the more we dine. For example, ever wonder when servers are asked “what’s good here”, they often stumble or tell you to get the most expensive dish. The correct answer is actually the stumble, usually indicative of the “if its not good, it wouldnt be on the menu”. But often enough, the best dish is in fact its most expensive. Whether its the use of expensive ingredients, popularity, labor intensive, the reasons are numerous. Servers are not stupid. They already know all about the “Oh, he’s probably saying that to get a bigger tip”, and all the rest of them. Which is yet another reason for the hesitations
At the last meal at Momofuku Ssam Bar I didnt ask the server “what’s good here” because I already had a good idea from previous visits, and Chowhound chatter. The only questions I asked the server centered around the most expensive dish, the whole boneless Porgy. “How were the bones removed”, “What’s in the green sauce”, “where did the Porgy come from”, “What was his name”. An instant classic that blew us away like no other whole fish before.
This Long Island sound Porgy shows up in all her glory, with head and teeth and all. Except for the main bone that was surgically removed. The fish is dressed with the momofuku signature ginger scallion sauce which made Mrs Z take note. One bite, and you can tell this is not your average grilled branzino. Another bite and its an entire Havah Nagilla rendition in your mouth. By the 5th bite, you want to run around with scissors, naked. And then at around the 5th inning, you feel you must try the accompanied lettuce, and tortillas to make fish wraps. You experiment by adding some pickled bean sprouts, some cabbage, and creme fraiche, and you are suddenly the world’s greatest fish taco maker. The fish comes with all these goodies in “Ssam” style (“Ssam” essentially means everything you need to make wraps)
The Porgy and the rest of the meal help cement this one, not only as part the Z-List, but as one of my favorite restaurants in NYC. Maybe top 5. The signature steamed buns are perhaps better then Ippudo’s me thinks now (making a historic change of mind). The spicy sausage with rice cakes is another signature that continues to please. The spring menu featuring the scrumptious Broccolini with thinly sliced beef tongue and egg is adds more joy. The Porgy is $42 but can easily feed two. Add the rice cakes, pork buns, Broccolini, and you got yourself a great meal for under $150. The only forgettable dish this time was the Octopus salad. No much wrong there, just average octopus
The only thing I have to mention here is that Ssam Bar will not win any comfort awards, especially if you are two people. You will sit at a long communal table either facing workers cleaning glasses or facing each other next to other diners. And oooh boy the place can get loud. But we are in it for the food, and as long as no one is poking me or runs around naked with scissors, we’ll keep coming for that Porgy
Ssam Bar
207 2nd Ave (East Village)
Rating: Three Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that
Recommended Dishes: Country Ham, Max’s Curry & Potatoes, Roasted Cauliflower, Pork Buns, Flatiron, Skate, Whole Roasted Fish Ssam, Rice Cakes
A lot of excitement lately centered around the pope’s visit to America and NYC. For the past few days, he cruised central park and 5th avenue, met with our leaders, played with children in Harlem, and crowned our new Pastrami king in Alphabet City. Ok, I’m not too sure about the last one, but that’s what I hear from my sources, Michael and Gabriel. Either way, Harry and Ida’s deserves the title. For too long Katz’s was at the helm doing a magnificent job satisfying tourists and locals alike, about 10 minutes from Harry & Ida’s. Though H&I is not really replacing Katz’s any time soon. Its the size of a shoe repair store without any tables, and a small counter by the entrance can accommodate about three food photographers.
When you first walk inside Harry & Ida’s for the first, you essentially sign a contract for life, or the duration of the place whichever ends sooner. You are asked two simple but lethal questions. “Have you been here before”, and “Would you like to taste some Pastrami”. Yes, I suppose that if you are a vegetarian you may throw up a little bit inside at the thought, but as for the rest of us, its a point of no return. You get two hefty, juicy pieces, far from your average deli sample. One bite and…done, contract is signed, “One pastrami sandwich please”. I invite the owners/manager to comment here please, and tell us if anyone ever left without getting more. It doesn’t seem like its scientifically possible.
The pastrami sandwich is not very pretty looking at first glance, especially to pastrami purists like me. It has dill, and cucumbers, and more importantly it has dill. WTF? With that said, lets pause for a sec for a bathroom break, and a tip…
EWZ Tip: If you come across a sandwich in NYC that has dill in it, its not a sign of a good sandwich, its a sign of a GREAT sandwich. Dill is one of the ugliest things you can put inside a sandwich, and a sure bet to scare some people away. But dill adds a nice flavor and aroma, and is specially complimentary in the summer, and over fish like salmon. And partially due to that ugliness, its normally a sign of great craftsmanship. “I don’t give a hoot about popular public opinion, I’m doing it my way”
The sandwich in a word is Maaaaarvelous (For my friends at Turks and Caicos who are smiling at this spelling). It looks ugly at first, but after a few bites, it looks like the prettiest sandwich on the planet. Thick, plentiful, tender, perfectly spiced slices can convert any purists out there. One of the most delicious sandwiches I ever had in NYC, and I’ve had many.
These guys are no strangers to the art of smoked meats. This is the sibling duo behind Ducks Eatery which I first tried a few years back at the Grub Street Food Festival. Harry and Ida are their great grandparents who inspired this masterpiece. There are more reasons to go back. Like the much talked about hot dog, or the smoked eel. But if they ask me that second question again, “would you like to try our pastrami”, how can I?
Harry & Ida’s Meat and Supply Co.
189 Avenue A (East 11/12)
$$
I personally subscribe to the popular notion of “Happy wife, happy Ziggy”. It took me years to understand what it meant exactly. So when she comes home one day with an odd demand like “I feel like crabs”, I don’t even question the oddity. I ask my friends at Chowhound where are the crabs before Mrs Z and I even finish the conversation. I can multitask! Especially when it comes to conversations about someone’s work or school. When my kids finally, after a significant amount of begging, open up and tell me about their school, my thoughts go something like “Hmmm, this is significantly less exciting than I imagined”. Followed by impure thoughts about pizza. Anyway, the so called friends on Chowhound recommended some places to get crabs, including of course Ashley Madison. But I opted to go with Red & Gold Boil in the East Village even though its pretty much the middle of crab season at Ashley Madison
Red & Gold from the outside on pedestrian busy St Marks looks more like another playful Ramen spot rather than a seriously good crab joint. Inside, I havent even peeked or leaked so dont know. We took advantage of a perfect day and grabbed a table outside. Opened about a year ago, when the owners of a four boat flee exporting crabs to China decided to let New Yorkers join in on the fun. And oh what fun it is.
The crab is boiled with other goodies such as corn, mussels, potatoes, sausages, shrimp, squid, and all presented to you with added spaghetti bonus in a bag that can keep things warm according to my rough estimate for 3 weeks. In fact it was so hot that in order to peel the shrimp without second degree burns you would need to take it out of the bag and let it to cool for about 10 minutes. Why did we order another bag of shrimp, only god knows. I would advice no to do so, and concentrate on what they do best here, sweet, meaty, messy crab.
Many years ago when Mrs Z and I lived in South Florida, we used to frequent a crab house for baskets of garlicky golden Florida crab. We would get a bib and a wooden hammer, partly to beat the crap of the crab, and partly beat the crap of the table when someones birthday was announced. Imagine 250 people pounding simultaneously on their tables until your ears bleed. Ahhh, good times. The love for crab never went away, but we very rarely do anything about it. I call it the Family Guy affect.
We started with a catfish, fried to flaky perfection, along with overly garlicky but who cares waffle fries, and ok raw oysters. The waffles and catfish are part of a
$13 app special. The seasonal $40 Dungeness crab that I was struggling to find on the west coast last month was the bomb! Only to get slightly outstaged by the slightly sweeter $25, always available red Maryland Crab. Bib and gloves are provided, and you might as well put your phone on do not disturb. Not only you’ll be busy for a while but you will get so dirty that you wont be able to take out the phone from your man purse. All the other items in the bag are just there to give you something to chew on between the cracking. Like Crab amuse bouches. All washed down with my new favorite Japanese beer, Hitachino Nest. Another great find in where else, East Village. GO!
Red and Gold Boil
30 St Marks Pl
$$$
Recommended Dishes: Crab, preferebly red, or gold
If you pass on this post because of the name, you may want to hang on a little longer. But first I would like to present to you this very related Ziggy’s Guide to Tipping in NYC:
1. If the service has been stellar – Tip 20% (on top of the tax, before tax is up to you)
2. If the service has been a little less than stellar – Tip 20%
3. If your water hasn’t been filled on time, your food hasn’t arrived on a timely basis, and no one asked you if you like your food – Tip 20%
4. If your server made numerous errors with your order, hasn’t smiled the entire time, and looks rather stressed out – Tip 20%
5. If the servers made you feel uncomfortable and unwelcomed the entire time, to the point of never returning – Tip 20%
6. If the server along with another server collaborate to follow you to the bathroom, blindfold and kidnap you via the back alley, lock you in an apartment for 15 days and let you watch nothing but Full House reruns before leaving you in the middle of a bear infested forest naked – Tip 15%. Yes, this is where I draw the line
Why then Ziggy? Why do you recommend tipping 20% no matter what? Because this is their salary. Because the servers are humans like me and you. Humans who make mistakes. Because if you make a mistake at your line of work, your salary most likely doesn’t take a hit. Because people can have bad days. Because there are other workers relying on this tip. I can explain much further but this post is not about that. It’s about one of a handful of places in NYC that ditched the tipping practice completely, while charging a fixed 20% “administrative fee” (no tipping allowed). I give them Kudos for that and I hope others follow suit. Its just that over the years tipping has become sort of automatic. And the more you eat the more you understand the ins and outs of running a restaurant and the reasoning behind bad days
Bruno Pizza would have gotten major props even if they allow tips. The food is much more creative than the name implies. The name sucks! I don’t know how else to put it. Its one notch less generic than Rays. “Not Another Bruno” would have made more sense
But let me tell you how much I loved this place. It was on the radar since they opened, but leaped to the top of the mental queue when an Italian chef I respect told me to go. They just got their liquor license and already featuring an impressive drink menu including a few beers on draft (liked the Italian one, didnt like the San Francisco one, forget the names). The place has a funky, east villagy, minimalistic, rustic look. Very loud. Space between tables… maybe good enough for a Jenner, but definitely not a Kardashian. As for the food…
Fairytale Eggplant – More like Fairytale Eggplant and Shishito peppers. A fairytale perhaps because they make them so meaty, and great tasting? Comes with this mild black cashew paste which makes the dish resemble a squid ink mess after a few minutes. Get this!
Fluke – Stunning all around, look and flavor. Quinoa grains puffed and boosted with Tapioca add a coffee like flavor to the fluke. A few uni pieces add more color but I would gladly sub them for one more killa fluke piece. Need more cowbell, and fluke.
Margherita Pie – Good. Not as wildely different as I was expecting after reading about the pizza elsewhere. Just a little different texture, chew and a kinda whole wheaty flavor.
Nduja (pizza) – Thats more like it. Nduja (spicy pork) with cauliflower which adds a nice crunch. Great tasting pie
Cavatappi – Excellent. Like fat Gramigna, or supersized curly elbows, with collard greens, smoked bone marrow, breadcrumbs, bacon and clams, all work nicely together
Grayson-Agnolotti. The glaring miss of the night. Its 5 tiny ravioli with light cream sauce, chanterelles, squash and hazelnuts. Ok flavor, with hazelnut bringing unnecessary sweetness, and Agnolotti that has no resemblance to any agnolotti I’ve ever seen. But the main issue is the size. It would be tiny even as an appetizer, but priced as a main ($22)
Desserts – This is where that brilliance is really showing off for me. Two items on the menu currently and both outstanding and very creative. The rose gelato is made on the spot, and its so airy and fresh. It comes dusted with powder they make from lovage (that comes on the Margherita as well), and a berry compote thats not overpowering. The peach sherbert was equally great, especially the accompanied plum merengue.
Kicking myself for not bringing the big boy camera for this one, but oh well. Highly recommend Bruno Pizza. One of my favorite new restaurants of the year
Bruno Pizza
204 E 13th St
$$
Recommended Dishes: Fairytale Eggplant, Fluke, Nduja, Cavatappi, both desserts
And starving. Like, literally starving to death. There was a point where I realized that the safest time to read Aynat’s (Trip Advisor handle) daily accounts of her NY adventure is between 6 and 6:45, before my stomach wakes up from its beauty rest. This was not Aynat’s first trip to NYC, and she already logged countless of great meals under her belt. But this time it became apparent after day two (out of 27) that included a marathon meal at Ko (the best marathon there is), that Aynat picked up her game to almost unreachable levels. From my vantage point (living room, transferring to kitchen soon) this is the Michael Jordan of trip reports. The basketball player, not the chef. Although the chef is pretty darn good too (miss Rosemary’s in Vegas dearly).
I read trip reports on various boards like Chowhound and Trip Advisor on occasion, and it usually doesn’t take long to get a sense of the due diligence involved. Aynat on the other hand, essentially has redefined food research, and is probably already planning her next trip to NYC (best medicine to post vacation blues.. Alcohol. Second best.. rebook). This was 27 days of eating bliss and blissful eating. After her trip was over, I figured it would be criminal not to write something about this on EWZ, but the challenge was how. So I asked Aynat to compile a list of her favorite dishes of the trip and here are the results. Top 20 dishes (comments are mine) with pictures whenever I could find them
Momofuku Ko – Chef’s Multi Course Tasting Menu. Its impossible to pick one dish from this 18 dish ecstasy. Its like asking Evander Holyfield which Illegitimate child is his favorite. Perhaps the best eating experience NYC has to offer at the momeny
Bowery Meat Company – Bowery Steak with Salsa Verde, Whipped Potato. The ribeye cap, arguably the cows most delicious part is rolled into this hockey puck of dreams. One of the most delicious steaks I ever ate. Aynat agrees.
Marta – Carbonara Pizza with Potato, Guanciale, Black Pepper and Egg. I’ve watched Nick Anderer try to perfect this Roman beaut over the first few months, until he settled on arguably the best white pie NY has to offer. Aynat also liked the Rabbit meatballs very much.
Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Bistro – Oxtail Fried Rice with daikon, Shiitake & Bone marrow. Aynat hesitated at first with this one. “Why is he suggesting Fried Rice, in a hotel no less.” Easily made the top dishes mark, along with the brilliantly simple sautéed squid (Ika shuga)
The Marshal – Wood Oven Roasted Meatloaf stuffed with Mozzarella, Squash Carrots and Kale. Sometimes a man just wants to eat meatloaf. Apparently same rules apply for women. One of Hell’s Kitchen’s hidden gems, dishing out proper farm to belly American classics.
Annisa – Barbecue Squid with Thai Basil and Fresh Peanuts (top picture). Aynat asked me about some of my favorite squid/octopus dishes in town and I directed her to one of Anita Lo’s best sellers. Needless to say she liked it.
Ivan Ramen – Pork Meatballs with Buttermilk Dressing, Bulldog Sauce, Bonito. Perhaps it’s the hypnotizing dancing bonito flakes, the tangy Bulldog sauce, or those tender juicy meatballs. Whatever that is, hope this LES Ivan branch keeps it on the menu for a while.
Alta – Shrimp and Chorizo Skewer with Avocado, Garlic and Sherry Vinegar. Another winner at this old tapas staple. Aynat also praised the Brussel Sprouts with apple, Creme Fraiche and pistachios. The dish that essentially made us start cook Brussel sprouts. And many chefs around town followed.
Balaboosta – Crispy Cauliflower With Lemon, Currants and Pine Nuts. It’s not an Israeli meal without a cauliflower dish. (Hmmm, I knew something was missing from my meal in LA last night). This is one Balaboosta must
Nougatine at Jean Georges – Fried Calamari with Basil Salt and Citrus Chilli Dip. Never been to Nougatine so never had it. But I can just taste it…
Root and Bone – Crispy Free Range Fried Chicken, Tea Brined and Lemon Dusted. Perhaps the NYC fried chicken to beat, along with Ma Peche’s Habanero infused bird. The brine and the magic dusting gives it a deeper, lasting flavor. Aynat also really admired the Charred Asparagus with Fire Roasted Tomatoes and Crunchy Peanuts. And talking about deeper and lasting, Root and Bone apparently means something else entirely down under (where half of the owners are from. Coincidence?)
Santina – Guanciale e Pepe. Aynat also hit some of the new kids on the block, and enjoyed Santina’s Cecina as well. I’ve personally been to Santina three times now, so ye.. I’m a fan too.
Rounding the top 20…
The NoMad Restaurant – Suckling Pig with Ramps, Potatoes and Salsa Verde. Been twice, never had it
ABC Cocina – Spring Pea Guacamole with Warm Tortillas
Timna -Lamb Saddle with Persian Lemon Dust, Black Garlic Mousse, English Pea Purée. Along with Fried Cauliflower (doh!) with Homemade Labane, Curried Tahini and Sumac. Top of my to do list
Inti – Ceviche Mixto. Love this dish. They make great ceviche here
Mercato – Gnocchi in Beef and Pork Ragu. Havent had this in a while and got tomorrow free. m..u..s..t r..e..s..i..s..t…
Kati Roll Company – Unda chicken roll. Never had it.
Gazala’s – Sun dried tomato Bourekas with Hummus, salad and olives. Still best hummus in town
Ample Hills Creamery – Salted Crack Caramel. Seriously addictive ice cream (like seriously!) . Aynat also gives major props to the Sullivan Street Bakery Bomboloni and Amorino gelato.
So there you have it. There were many other great dishes Aynat enjoyed in this one, but these are the highlights. This is a great starting point for those researching their next trip. Thanks Aynat for this glorious report
First, an apology to you readers, both of you, for the lack of quality posts as of late. Busy with work, family, various projects, avoiding Obama. Yes, Obama visiting the Daily Show the other day causing major havoc to many New Yorkers trying to go home or just go about their business. Have you ever seen an American president stuck in traffic? There’s no such thing. At some point the entire 52nd st was converted to Obama freeway where no cars or pedestrians could cross from north to south. Close to three hour commute. My friend and fellow blogger at Smum County told me today about the commute nightmare of his daughter’s camp that day. Even the homeless guy on 52nd and 11th had to be temporarily displaced, and knowing him and his apparently very annoying invisible friend, I feel sorry for the poor cops that were tasked with that one. And for what? 15 minutes of American entertainment.
But I digress, quickly. Since not even Obama can steal the spotlight of this post about one of the best meals we’ve had lately. No coincidence it was in East Village. No coincidence from young chefs opening their first restaurant. In a way this place reminds me of Tuome nearby. Very young chefs (I was told 12 years old by our waitress but it was a little loud), playful Asian inspired menus, no desserts (I dont consider the chips dessert) and that overall casual, buzzy East Villagy feel. In fact since this was a last minute rezzy, I was wondering if perhaps I was underdressed for the occasion after reading on Chowhound that this was more of a chic, romantic joint. So I asked the guy on the phone if sexy long shorts with sandals (and desperate need of pedicure depending on the light) were ok and he just burst out laughing. As for the food, plenty of hits, and no bad dish in sight
Fried Chicken – Started with a bang. Tapioca flour coated, far from your ordinary battered fried chicken. Shredded Leeks was a nice touch
Cold Buckwheat noodles – Excellent! Pretty much exactly what you expect but with the much added bonus of spring Ramps preserved from the previous spring. Those ramps soaked in a lot of punch
Jang-Jo-Rim – Enjoyed this one. If I have to pick the weakest dish this might be it, though its more of a testament to the other dishes and I still recommend you get it. Buttered rice once mixed in with the egg and everything else had a nice flavor. The King Oysters Mushrooms was my favorite part, but the beef shank could have been a little warmer
Truffle Seafood Broth – Best dish of the night. Mussels, Shrimp, two Crispy Rice “Sheets” that sizzle when the broth is poured table side, need to be softened a little for best taste. But its all about the beautiful, dark, rich broth that makes this a winner. Just a small hint of truffle, perhaps not enough to be part of the name, but just right to round up the perfect broth
Oxtail – Finger licking exceptional good. I was concerned that it would be too sweet but it wasnt. Pick it up and suck on the bones for the true affect. More tasty root veggies here. Really liked the use of veggies throughout the meal. Their mama must be proud
Potato Chips – The most disgustingly addictive thing I ever ate. Apparently a thing in South Korea nowadays.
Go!
Oiji
119 1st Avenue (7/St Marks)
$$$
Recommended Dishes: All of the above
Winter is coming! Time to file some Citibike miles under the belt. About twice a year the Hummus Whisperer and I take a day riding between the boroughs (Brooklyn and Manhattan) losing crazy amount of calories, while gaining back three times as much from munching in various places. We try to hit at least 5 random spots, some are planned, some not. This time HW couldn’t make it, but we did meet up at some point. Here’s how the ride went
In my constant pursuit of great chicken wings as of late (another middle age crisis symptom), I targeted two year old Distilled in Tribeca. Distilled originally opened as an interesting looking destination spot from a Momofuku Noodle veteran, and settled down into more of a popular neighborhood gastropub with a talented team of mixologists (partly judging by the exceptional Bloody this morning). But the one constant since the beginning seem to be the glorious wings. They are double fried to crispy perfection, and coated with a thick and messy layer of Gochujang (that fermented Korean sauce you put on your Bibimbap). They serve it with their own version of not too funky blue cheese sauce to cool things down. Really excellent hefty, top quality wings.
Back on the bike, sort of full after just 5 wings (I left one for good luck), where to go next? Cutting across east I decided to bike the selfie stick happy Brooklyn Bridge. With all the crowds and craziness, I still rather bike iconic Brooklyn Bridge than any other bridge. Then down to Sands street, Flushing, and Kent before crossing the Jewish side of Williamsburg and parking by old favorite Zizi Limona. The one big surprise here is the large Puerto Rican community in this part of the woods. The big parade was in Manhattan this day, but I felt the celebration here in Brooklyn. With Citibike, I feel like I’m rediscovering my own city
My next destination is a slice of Pizza. Yes, I biked all the way here from Tribeca for a slice. But lets go back for a sec. About a year ago, when I had one of those cherished free days, I decided to drive around Brooklyn for various iconic slices I haven’t had in a while and more. I had the great L&B Spumoni, the legendary Di Fara (after a 45 minute wait), and then drove to Williamsburg for Best Pizza which proved to be Best of the bunch especially while factoring in some of the pain involved getting some of the others. The funny part is that Roman based food writer Katie Parla did something similar a month later, and also proclaimed Best Pizza as the winner. Now, back for yet another NY style slice (need to save room for the next most highly anticipated stop) from the wood burning oven, with that signature basil leaf in the middle for added aroma. Great slice again with an unusually well balanced cheese/sauce proportions. Owner Frank has an extensive pizza resume, along with a stint at the Culinary Institute of America. The paper plate art alone including the “Jews love Best Pizza” plate is worthy of a schlep.
Back on the bike, and back to the “city” via the much quieter Williamsburg Bridge. The emptiness means more freedom to move around so you can fly like a bold eagle! Until you realize you are on a Citibike, and you are dangerously close to being passed by an 80 year old woman (that actually happens often to me in Italy). Its hard to look cool on those little blue bikes, especially in Central Park. The only chance you have is to ride in the rain (not drizzle, rain), or with just one hand. Until you face another blue frontal balding biker riding with one hand and you realize it doesn’t look as cool as you thought.
Anyway, sometimes the most anticipated items prove less than thrilling at the end (see Best vs Di Fara). Such is the case with Fuku, the hottest sandwich in town at the moment from David Chang’s Momofuku empire (As some of you know, I’m a fan). Perhaps I got Fukued. My 30 minute wait was about half outside, half in after paying for it. “Credit Only for now” is something I haven’t heard anywhere yet I don’t think. After paying, you get a number with a stick, and you can stand with your number just about anywhere looking like a dork, for the order girl to eventually find you. Sort of like one of those bachelorette games…”bachelor #23 if you were a kitchen appliance, what appliance would you be”… Eventually the “spicy fried chicken” arrives. Its a flat almost schnitzel like, thigh meat sandwiched by a tiny potato roll that is meant to serve as a handle. Not the sexiest looking thing. There are also sliced pickles in there somewhere that serve almost no purpose. The first few bites were interesting, featuring decent flavor, then the struggle took over. Stringy, uneven texture throughout, with crust and meat not so happily married. Not very spicy for a sandwich called Spicy Chicken. It wasn’t a total mess, but far from that hot, much anticipated item I was so looking forward to. Try for yourself!
A Battle of the Bridges is incomplete without my favorite thirst quencher which happens to be nearby, the Grasshopper from Liquiteria. Its not cheap at around $9, but so refreshing on a hot day. I proceeded then west, cruising 13th st, passing Da Andrea, All’Onda and eventually Santina on the way to meet Hummus Whisperer and baby Hummus Whisperer at the new Whitney Museum by the Highline. There I rediscovered the joys of quirky American art, and the joys of watching quirky American art while holding hands of a baby surrounded by the striking Manhattan upper class. Its a a scientific theory that’s proven time and time again; Babies, preferably cute ones, are babe magnets! The museum is actually very cool. You can couple it with the Highline, and dinner/lunch at Untitled (thats the name) inside the museum, or Santina a few steps away.
I said goodbye to HW and baby for hire and headed uptown via Hudson River Park, perhaps our most important and one of the most scenic bike paths. Between the rotating art in the 50’s and 60’s, various parks (another good place to bring your neighbor’s babies!), piers, people watching, and stops along the the way like Chelsea Market, Gotham West, I can easily spend a whole day here.
My last stop was at one of the newest Hell’s Kitchen bakeries, Bibble & Sip. Well technically just outside Hell’s Kitchen but got all the making of another unique Hell’s Kitchen bakery. Nice place to sit, relax and BS all you want! The Earl Grey Banana Bread is quickly gaining neighborhood fame. Add the Matcha Cream puffs, various scones, the occasional English Muffins sliders and all sorts of rotating goodies. I visited it three times before, and on this day the Earl Grey Panna Cotta proved to be the perfect finisher to a fun day.
Eating With Ziggy 