
Usually after the third or so trip to Spain and Portugal, you begin to understand their obsession with food and ingredients. You scratch the surface in the capitals and other large cities. But only when you get to regions like Asturias and Basque, you start to get it. It then becomes more obvious back at home which places are the pretenders and which are more legit. These days there’s no shortage, especially on the island of Manhattan. Real estate here makes them pricier than they should be, and “Tapas” and “Pintxos” hence redefined. But the techniques and flavors are certaintly there.
In no particular order, these are our favorite five. Other than the fifth (Newark), all in Manhattan.
Txikito – I still dont know how to pronounce the name, but according to the waitress I earned an A for what to order. Elevated Basque cooking in Chelsea by Spanish cuisine pioneers Alex Raij and Eder Montero. Always start with the classic octopus carpaccio. Then the decadent Arroz Meloso, and Cochinnilo (suckling pig). Pay attention to specials like Txangurro (deviled crab gratin). But my favorite these days is the sublime Pochas, a bean stew with shellfish. 240 9th Ave

Tomiño Taberna Gallega – NYC’s best if not only pure Galician. Meaning get the Octopus. We once met a couple from Galicia in Washington Square Park who shared their love for Tomiño. Since then I no longer dismiss it for being in the heart of Little Italy. The Galician octopus is the star, but I’m not sure I’ve had a bad dish here. I’m also partial to the Parrillada de Setas, the best grilled mushroom salad you’ll ever have. 192 Grand St

Tia Pol – In Spanish rich Chelsea, this is one of the more accessible names, and the closest we have to a Tapas joint in Spain. Opened over 20 years ago with the help of Alex Raij and Eder Montero from the mentioned Txikito fame who cemented the menu. The Txipirones en su Tinta, squid cooked with its ink and rice is the one must, but you cant go wrong with the Patatas Bravas, Gernika Pimientos, and other classics. 205 10th Ave

Leitao – One of my favorite discoveries during the last few years. Comfortable, fun, accessible, and a menu that reads like Portugal’s greatest hits. Even the infamous Francesinha is on it. The piri piri chicken, butterflied fish, and Polpo are some of the usual hits, but I wouldnt sleep on the fall off the bone Robalo, well marbled Iberico Ribs cooked with wine and topped with a toasted garlic and chili mix. 547 Hudson St

Sabor Unido – Three times in the past year makes Sabor Unido our most frequent Spanish or Portuguese and its not even in NYC. The Ironbound neighborhood in Newark NJ is essentially our Little Portugal even though many of the Portuguese restaurants are owned by Brazilian immigrants these days. Sabor Unido replaces Seabra’s Marisqueira as our favorite there. Smaller, more relaxed, and the food is outstanding. Octopus, shrimp in garlic, baked chicken with potatoes, always solid. And their wines and Sangria are top notch. 77 Jefferson St, Newark, NJ































Next month I’m turning 50, and this one feels different. It almost feels like I need to make some lifestyle changes, or at least make a list of things I need to accomplish. Do I need to take a pottery class or something? Is there a manual for this? Age is just a number, until its not. At 50, you start remembering hockey player’s dads. At 50, if you go to Toro on Valentine’s Day, everyone around you including the staff will be half your age. At 50, you are the only one at Toro who doesnt get a bread basket. Smart! No bread for you!

Remember that old commercial.. “Stay Fresh a little longer… say goodbye a little longer..”, The actual products dont stick, but the songs often do. If you dont remember this one its probably because, well, it doesnt exist. Its actually a Wrigley Big Red gum commercial that goes “So kiss a little longer…”, and the fresh part was only in my head. But the idea of the commercial is that the gum will keep you fresh longer than normal so you could kiss longer, for some reason. Why would anyone want to do it in public is beyond me. Kissing in public for more than 3 seconds is rare, awkward and should be banned frankly for the safety of the individuals and motorists. You practically asking for herpes. And at home you have Listerine for that.
Much of Santina’s originality is attributed to one item, Cecina. While Santina bills itself as coastal Italian, mainly Liguria and Tuscany, this chickpea pancake is different than anything we had between Genoa and Lucca. Its softer and spongier, but not in a bad way. On recent visits I enjoyed it with tuna infused with Calabrian chili, and avocado thats essentially the best Guacamole within a two mile radius. Once wrapped with the Cecina ‘slice’, you get four tasty snacks. Add the accompanied red sauce to the second or third Cecina for a change of pace and maximum oomphness. The Cecina is reason #365 why you should stop reading






