Our mission, if we choose to accept it, is to eat at every “Origens”, “Origines”, “Origin” in Europe. After our two brilliant meals at two unrelated Origens in Portugal, I’m starting to suspect a correlation between the name and the product. Perhaps calling your place as such requires a certain amount of dedication, and just the kind of horse sense. One highly acclaimed Origines in Paris is another example.
I didnt find any horse meat at Chef Gonçalo Queiroz’s well rounded menu, but it didnt take long to find the confidence behind the personality. He and wife Eugénia run this gem in a hidden corner of Evora. While hidden, its minutes away from just about every top attraction in Evora. Whether you are looking for the most handsome skulls at Capela dos Ossos, or taking selfies at the roof of the cathedral, this temple of taste is just around the corner.
When you visit Lisbon and Porto, you get a sense of pride and a certain level of excitement behind establishments that serve Alentejo cuisine. Here you are at the source, or origin if you will. The food scene at Evora is one of the reasons I chose to stay here three nights. The startling Convento do Espinheiro certainly helped with the decision.
Essentially Evora offers a toggle war between the old and the new. The classic, ageless establishments like Fialho, and the terrific Taberna Típica Quarta-feira on one side, and the newer modern young blood on the other. Origens is in the latter, but the menu is a nice ode to the former. Although the menu is so ingredient driven, it constantly changes, and not visible on their site as a result.
One thing (out of many) that I liked about Origens is the warning about ordering too much, even when it looks like you are ordering too little. Thats not something we experience often anywhere. Customer happiness, including in the cost department is at the forefront.
The bread, served in a pouch, and butter, a common start in Portugal, is often a telling preview of things to come. The addictive chorizo butter especially was a big clue. Another highlight early on was the creamy “A bras” with sausage instead of Bacalhau that had a very pleasant potato chip-like finish. We had quite a few “A Bras” (usually salted cod, onions, thinly chopped fried potatoes, egg) during the trip and this one was one of the most interesting.
The two larger dishes were superb. An expertly cooked, delicate croaker, like a nice cross between trout and a typical white fish. And the ultra tender, sloooowly cooked pork cheeks, a flavor explosion on every bite. But if I can give you only one tip, get the dessert sampler. And outstanding array of textures and flavors.
I admit it was a little distracting to see Gonçalo walk from table to table with an after-dinner bottle, and an explanation of what’s in it. Will he come to us? What if he doesnt like what I’m wearing. What if an American girlfriend broke his heart? But sure enough, he arrives with a splendid port-like wine liquor, Vinho Licoroso de Borba from Adega Cooperativa de Borba. Its not port because its not from the Douro. I may have a better chance of winning the powerball than finding this in NYC. A superb finisher to a flawless meal.
Eating With Ziggy 