“America has only three cities: New York, San Francisco, and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland” – Tennessee Williams. I’ve never been to Cleveland but I’ll take his word for it. I also doubt Eyal Hen and his partners ever been to Cleveland, otherwise the conversation on how to name this place would be longer. Three visionaries with a naming block (yes there’s such a thing) settling for the address that includes “Cleveland”.
What was wrong with something like “Carmel”, the name partner Asaf Maoz chose for his current restaurant in LA. And what would have happened if they were located on 6 1/2 Avenue, or East 3rd st. The naming possibilities were endless. But I get it. At some point around the time 19 Cleveland opened in 2018, naming it after the neighborhood or street was trendy. The Nomad, Chambers, etc etc.
But other than the name, there’s much to like about 19 Cleveland. After the success of Nish Nush (see, now thats a fun name that rolls off the tongue), the fast casual joint that turned our falafel scene upside down pretty much, a contemporary Middle Eastern/Mediterranean/Israeli was the natural progression. Hen teamed with culinary virtuoso Asaf Maoz to create a menu that’s pretty much for everyone including grandma. Its a rare moment where everything on the menu speaks to me.
But as much as we want to try everything, we keep ordering some of the same items. These days its usually Sunday Brunch which includes plenty of savory stuff you’ll find for dinner, or as they call it, Sunset Menu. I suppose I can also talk about their menu naming conventions. They use a lot of Hebrew like Boker Tov (good morning), Salatim (salads) which is great for Hebrew speaking people like me (its rusty), but can be a little confusing for the rest. But you can feel at home here, regardless if you speak the language.
Ever since an Israeli chef in Flatiron introduced us to Eggplant Carpaccio, we order it everywhere we see it, including here. Though I would prefer a nice warm pita just like what comes out with the Hummus instead of the very hard pita crackers. The smoky eggplant here comes with Feta, Pistachio, Raw Tahini & Pomegranate. Essentially Hava Nagila in your mouth. The wedding version.
The creamy silky smooth Hummus is another must on every visit. This was the first time we tried one topped with Garlic & Tomato. While good, I’m not sure I prefer over the Hummus Masabacha here. Still I think the best Hummus can be found at Gazala’s in UWS, but this is pretty darn good.
Another thing we usually order is the Short Rib Burekas. It got the flavors and texture but not quite big enough and not meant to share between four people. The Chicken Shawarma is a step above the average. The Branzino Shawarma is fine as well, but we prefer the chicken. I indulge in the spicy Falafel Sandwich or Safta’s Chicken Schnitzel when I feel naughty. The Shakshuka hasnt totally won me over, but the family likes it.
Friendly service, fine drinks, comfortable whether you are in the cozy back or the more buzzy bright front. And very easy to reserve. One of the only places in the city where we feel at home as a family. And as long as they dont use the Staten Island naming convention (Hummus R Us), I dont really care what they call it.
19 Cleveland
19 Cleveland Pl (Nolita)
Recommended Dishes: Eggplant Carpaccio, Hummus Masabacha, Short Rib Burekas, Chicken Shawarma
