It took me roughly 48 seconds to realize that a day trip to Cordoba just wont do. Between the main monuments, patios, the various distinct neighborhoods, and nearby sites, even 48 hours felt like scratching the surface. The 22nd largest city in Spain has more UNESCO sites (4) than any city in the world. Remarkable considering you have cities like Paris and Rome in the mix.
The city is full of layers showcasing its rich Roman, Jewish, and Islamic past. For much of the middle ages, it was one of the most important cities in the world. But even some of the newer parts show plenty of charm. This is not a complete guide, but more or less what we did, arriving from Seville, with Granada next. Car as always, helps.
On the way from Seville you can stop at Castillo Almodovar del Rio, only 30 minutes from Cordoba. This is another Game of Thrones site, one of many in Spain. The castle is part Casterly Rock, but mainly Highgarden, the Tyrell’s house. Just dont make the mistake of coming within an hour before closing. If they show they close at 2:30 PM, it means they lock the gate at 1:30 PM. But even being on top, walking around the castle is pretty cool. Got plenty of nice drone shots.
Check into H10 Palacio Colomera. One of many new H10 properties sweeping the country. Beautiful building overlooking the picturesque Plaza de las Tendillas (busy during the day but quiet at night. Soundproof windows). Other than an unexpected 2am wake up call and some smelly bathroom issues that can probably be sorted out, this was a fine stay.
The surrounding area is a major shopping hub. Parking is advised to be reserved ahead at Parking Calle Sevilla 5. Just Google your drive to the parking garage to know what to expect (easy, but still), and pick up your much deserved snack at La Tranquera Solo Empanadas right near the garage.
I cant think of a better welcome to patio obsessed Cordoba than a visit to Palacio de Viana. A 15th century Palace where the spectacular patios and gardens didnt seem to end (I discovered my limits). 12 distinct gardens that will give you plenty of ideas for your spring planting. The palace was occupied by various families, last one being Marqueses de Viana until 1980, hence the name.
Explore what I call the upper Centro, the area around Jardines de la Merced. The atmospheric squares around Monumento a Manolete, and Cristo de los Faroles, and the stunning facade of Palacio de la Merced, a former convent. Time for a break at La Bendita Locura for Conservas, mini sandwiches and your 15th Tinto de Verano of the trip.
After a power nap, you are ready to be introduced to the old town and the Juderia. You’ll spent some quality time together the next 24 hours. Dinner CAN be at El Rincon De Carmen. While the food didnt exactly rock my world, this is one of the most popular… you guessed it.. patios in the area and my group enjoyed it overall. Try the Huevos Rotos con Jamón. Stronger recommendations coming up.
Start the next day with a morning tour of the Juderia with a Professional Jew (his words), Jorge Gershon of Cordoba Jewish Tours. Jorge is a walking encyclopedia, but also fun and energetic. You’ll get a better understanding of the impact of Maimonides, and the complex and rich history of Jews in Spain. Seeing one of the most important Synagogues in Spain, and Casa de Sefarad which usually comes with a timed surprise are just some of the highlights.
You’ll find beautiful patios all over the city, especially in early May during the festival, but the one area that’s particularly known for them is San Basilio. Even if none of the owners open their doors, its a pleasant neighborhood for a short stroll. But its approaching lunch time and you know who is getting hangry.
Lunch is just across the river since you’ll want to check out the Roman Bridge anyway. Take your time. Bar los Romerillos is open, but the kitchen doesnt open until 1:30. Thats how you know this spot is for locals. If you are early, hang tight and have your 20th Tinto de Verano. Then try the Cogollos Ajillo. If it looks like simple lettuce, it is. But trust me. Also try the Carrillada (pork cheek).
Its almost time for your 3:30 slot at the great Mezquita. This is one of the reasons you are in Cordoba. A Mosque-Cathedral masterpiece, and one of the most unique monuments in Spain. No pictures will properly prepare you, at least as far as the depth goes. Dont miss the Mihrab, which usually faces Mecca these days, but older mosques including this one, not so much. More of historical differences in opinion.
You need a good rest prior to this dinner. The brilliant Garum 2.1 will delight all your senses, with the aid of a rare breed waiter (assuming he’ll be there). Dont skip the Octopus with fried pig ears over creamy potato purée. And try some of the award winning tapas like the Salmorejo, and oxtail. Advanced reservations of course required.
Time to say goodbye, and hello to Granada or your next destination. If Granada than a slight detour to Jaén is worthwhile. The EVOO capital of Spain is quite the looker and well outside the tourist route. You got a castle towering right above it offering spectacular views. But the biggest case for Jaén is that it evolved into a food destination. Check out MangasVerdes. More on both Jaén and MangasVerdes to come.
Eating With Ziggy 