When Elkano in Getaria started the whole Turbot craze in 1964, in Orio they were already perfecting the grilled Besugo (Red Sea Bream) for around 10 years. More and more joined Elkano which was awarded a Michelin star eventually, while the old timers in Orio opted to keep it simple. On your bucket list, you want to have both.
Joxe Mari in Orio is the Besugo pioneer. The technique passed down from generation to generation with some minor tweaking. Today, the grandson runs Asador Joxe Mari, located steps away from Xixario, who became the second Besugo master, over 50 years ago. Current owner, Juan Carlos Beltrán from Tixuana was cooking them for 13 years at Xixario before buying the place when no other family member wanted to continue. He’s still grilling them today, though would rather talk about the weather in NYC and Home Alone while doing so.
Today there are 5 Besugo temples in Orio, and the technique is more or less the same. Grill the fish until its almost done, and finish with a sizzling hot mixture of olive oil, garlic and vinegar. At a cost of around 100 euros, its not cheap, hence choosing the right place is key. I was concerned that the recent fame from Somebody Feed Phil may have spoiled Asador Joxe Mari even more. Xixario felt like a safer, no frills, choice.
Just four dishes in this feast. We started with an excellent tomato and tuna salad. So simple yet so good when the ingredients are top notch. Grilled shrimp, one of the reasons I picked Xixario were sublime. So sweet and addictive.
And that Besugo, outrageous to say the least. Meaty, vinegary, yet very light. You could really feel the vinegar at first but it settles down quickly into a beautiful harmony with every morsel. Washed it down with a nice local Txakoli. Even their homemade dessert (like a Basque Napoleon with ice cream) was fantastic.
When we arrived at 1:30, we were as usual, the first. By the time we left the place was buzzing with locals. The owner / grill master speaks English, though no problems communicating with the rest of the staff. Add the Zumaia cliffs and Getaria (which I’ve written about before) to your date with the Besugo, for a glorious day trip from San Sebastian or wherever you are staying.
Eating With Ziggy 