Posts Tagged With: Seville

Four Gems in Seville

Posted on August 6, 2024 by Ziggy

I was about to write about one highlight in particular but I feel generous today. I wont go into details other than on some of the regional specialties that I’ll mention but Andalucia has a rich, vibrant, and very different food scene than the rest of Spain. And seeing even the more refined places keep traditions alive is much appreciated, especially for a tourist. We had all sorts of food experiences in Seville, but these are the four that dazzled our taste buds in ways I can not describe (for the Top Secret fans).

Bar Casa Morales

One of those time warp experiences. Opened in 1850 and still owned by the same family. You feel the history as soon as you walk in. Another entrance to the back room around the corner (that we discovered by accident). Try to arrive when they open if you dont want to wait, and dont be intimidated if you dont speak the language. Try the quality cold cuts, Tortilla, Galician Octopus, but something tells me they can do no wrong. C. García de Vinuesa, 11

Bodeguita Romero

Come for the famous Pringa and stay for the rest of the menu. This is another local legend. Best to arrive when they open or risk long lines. But whatever you do, dont give up on it. While the Pringa (Pork Sandwich) was indeed outstanding, we liked everything else just as much. The Salmorejo (like a tomato soup) is addictive. Try the expertly cooked whole grilled squid. And the immensely flavorful and tender Carillera (pork cheek). C. Harinas, 10

Blanca Paloma

I’ve already written about this jewel in the colorful Triana neighborhood. Its hard but not impossible to reserve but best to show up on the early side (sense a theme here?). For us Americans eating before the locals start flocking in (2pm for lunch, 9pm for dinner) didnt require a great effort. Try anything and everything shrimp including eggplant stuffed with shrimp, mini garlic shrimp burgers, and shrimp a la Plancha. C. San Jacinto, 49

Amara

Saving the best for last. Our top meal in Seville also happened to be the most expensive. Though a €48 tasting menu was still tremendous value for us New Yorkers. Chef/owner Javier Fabo grew up in the Amara neighborhood in San Sebastián, and trained at French Laundry, Gordon Ramsey, and other notables. Tiny Amara is a beautiful homage to the Basque heritage with much emphasis to local traditions.

Great bread is often an indication of things to come and that’s no different here. You may start the journey with a complex Ajoblanco (cold soup) made with coconut, cashews, garlic, pineapple, and other goodies. Then maybe a lovely Croqueta with squid and squid ink, followed by Artichoke in Jerez butter and Iberian Chicharron. Then maybe a 65 degrees egg with mushrooms, truffles, a Basque classic. If there’s a large rice dish with pork (top) as a special, you may want to pounce on it too. C. Zaragoza, 18

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Seville’s Feria is Bucket List Worthy

Posted on June 8, 2024 by Ziggy

So glad I didnt listen to the naysayers. Skip it, too crowded, it attracts like a bazillion thousand people, horse poop everywhere, you wont be able to get reservations. The last one almost made me reconsider and change plans. While I obviously cant compare this week to any other time, other than assume there are less people, the crowds for this New Yorker were not nearly as bad. Here’s everything you need to know about the Feria. Well, almost everything.

First, add it to the mental bucket list. A year ago I never even heard of this. But I feel like everyone should experience it at least once. Simply put, its one of the coolest things we’ve ever seen. Its Easter in New Orleans on crack. A week of celebrations, colors, horses, and a whole lot of beautiful people. Hence, we felt like we belonged.

The basics. Its a full week, normally in April (could be May in 2025). Google for the exact dates. Its held in an area well outside the city center so you can control how much Feria you want to have. At the Feria its essentially a huge scene, blocks and blocks of people celebrating inside their private “Casetas”, striped tents, where they drink and dance for much of the afternoon and night. Not to mention the parade of horses and carriages that brings the participants. And with everyone dressed in flamenco attire you essentially get the world’s largest free fashion show.

Do Plaza de España, preferably on Sunday afternoon. Even if you dont set foot at the Feria, just being in Seville that week is pretty cool. With so many well dressed participants flocking to Plaza de España, especially on the weekend after the fair start, its like being in a movie set

As for how to get there. Buses frequently run just outside Prado de San Sebastián and back. I believe there are other bus options but this is the most convenient in the center as of this writing. Its not free, but quite cheap at around a one euro p/p

Dont go in the morning. In Spain the later the better. In the early morning you’ll see Feria participants arriving back from a night full of partying. There’s not a whole lot going on there prior to noon, except cleanup.

There are public Casetas. But they are, well, public, so not nearly as attractive as the private ones. But you at least you can get a drink, and maybe some atmosphere. Try Rebujito, the official drink of the fair invented in 1985. You pay for a small pitcher.

As fun as it is you may suffer from sensory overload after a couple of hours. Go at around 5-6, before dinner. But you’ll see much of the city transform and people dressed up everywhere. One of many reasons to visit Andalucía.

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