Posts Tagged With: NYC restaurants

Anton’s – A Classic in the Making

Posted on February 13, 2024 by Ziggy

I dont know why I havent written a post on Anton’s before. Well, I sort of know. I may have added it to the world famous Z-List (I was told by people from various countries) before Anton’s even opened. You see, I’ve been following Nick Anderer ever since I met him at a Gabriele Bonci / Katie Parla pizza event in Brooklyn years ago. He called the police on me twice but eventually just got used to it. Another rehashed joke. I know. I’ll be here all week, try the veal. 

Like Anton’s itself, Anderer’s resume reads like an homage to the classics. Tabla (under the great late Floyd Cardoz), Babbo, Gramercy Tavern, Maialino, Marta. I recall sitting at the Marta counter, watching him throw out pie after pie that looked perfectly fine to my lazy eye, but not perfect enough to him. But it was Martina, Marta’s baby sister where I began to understand his trendsetting ways. Martina was unlike any pizzeria we have, but NYC was just not ready for her yet. Great, now I have the Bonci TV show in my head, most likely for the rest of the day.

Partnered with beverage director and life partner Natalie Johnson, Anton’s is Anderer’s first. The duo not only bringing in a wealth of expertise, but managed to put together an all-star team that includes Otto’s long timer legend Dennis Mullally, among other capable hands. After five years that included a painful pandemic, its now a well oiled machine that’s consistently booked. Though it feels more like the prototypical village neighborhood corner Italian. I’ve seen it referred to as European, but I dont recall seeing Borscht on the menu. He does make killer Pelmeni, but he calls them “Ravioli”.

Has this happened to you? You buy a nice stinky Camembert in France, eat it in the hotel with a fresh baguette, and a nice Vouvray with your spouse, and before you know it you find yourself wondering outside with your PJ’s looking for the nearest garbage can at 2 am. Even when secured in the fridge, the stench can take over the room. Its the Durian of cheese. At Anton’s, two waiters were holding their breath while I was smelling the Camembert from different angles. No smell that I could detect. This was a mild one, but that creaminess, along with that Cherry Gastrique and baguette, a killer combination. A new must.

The Pâté Grand-mère and the Smoked Whitefish Salad are the old musts. My oldest said it was like breakfast at grandmas. I agreed but only because I didnt want to kill the moment. No grandma I know ever served me a whitefish salad like this. Another winner this time was a refreshing salad of winter citrus, fennel, pistachios.

The pasta course at Anton’s is why you need to bring friends. The Spinach-Ricotta Ravioli is one of the classics, though I skipped it this time to try others. The well balanced Fettuccine with Mutton Ragù is Rezdora-esque and our new favorite of the bunch. The Angel Hair Francese takes me to my happy place. Staten Island. Where I’m munching on baked clams at a random red sauce Italian. To me its the pasta version of baked clams rather than the intended Chicken. Not a bad thing. Bucatini Baczynsky, another classic from day one, was the weakest link this time, but its more of a testament to the others.

If there’s one more thing I learned from the Maialino and Marta days is trust the chickens. At Anton’s, the half bird is on the simple side, but just the right crisp and quite satisfying. You know its good when you keep reaching for it on a very full stomach and with plenty of high quality steak left. The expertly cooked Strip Steak Lorenz is another day one item. Pair it with the Spinach a la Noialles. Hmm, maybe its more European than I thought.

Another big plus at Anton’s is the well rounded wine list, including the offerings by the glass. Finish with the Apple Crisp a la Mode and/or Bourbon Pecan Pie, though I’m suspecting you cant go wrong with any of them. Anton’s has all the ingredients for a classic in the making. Go!

Anton’s
570 Hudson St (West Village)
Recommended Dishes: Camembert, Pate, Whitefish Salad, Ravioli, Fettuccine with Mutton Ragù, Angel Hair Francese, chicken, steak, spinach, Pecan Pie, Apple Crisp

 

Categories: New York City, West Village | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

The Staten Island Survival Guide – 2024 Update

Posted on February 1, 2024 by Ziggy
The Staten Island Survival Guide
Categories: New York City, Staten Island | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Don Peppe – Legend Still Going Strong

Posted on January 9, 2024 by Ziggy

Every time I’m invited to an event at Don Peppe, I huff, and puff and bitch all the way there. Its too far, its too old, its past its prime, I think I have a rash and it could get nasty any minute. No shortage of excuses. I just dont like to travel too far for old school Italian. But every single time I go there, I’m not only reminded how good it is, but I’m also reminded that we dont really have anything like it.

Even with a party of 10 on a Saturday night, no reservations allowed (I dont think). And even with a very full house, and standing room only in the oversized waiting room, we got our table in no time. People travel here from all parts of the city, often well over an hour to get a chance to experience this legend. In fact, its one of the only reasons to get to the JFK area other than JFK. Well, except the casino or if you are on your way to long island as I once did with my daughters. Introducing them to Don Peppe was like taking them to a Goodfellas movie set.

New York Times

Don Peppe is family style at its core. Families, and large groups have been coming here since 1968. Its Carmine’s for locals if you will, though arguably much better food. At this isolated location, you better be good to make it all those years. The only issue, and its not a small one with a large group, is what to order, and how much of it. Your eyes are often bigger than your stomach. And as much as you want to be at the mercy of the trusted waiter, our shrinking stomachs may not always agree with his assessment.

I think more than half of the people come here strictly for the Vongole. Spaghetti with clam sauce is individually plated table side, and reliably addictive. When the waiter took the order and dictated the amount we need, my friend mistakenly told him that he doesnt believe every one of us wants it. The waiter corrected the silly goose with a show of hands. 

Earlier on, the baked clams and simple house salads were winners. The salad is individually plated as well. We also often like to order Shrimp Fra Diovolo as an app. Fresh, plump, and plenty of heat for old school Italian. Though its beyond time for us to try some of the other Shrimp dishes that I suspect are even better. The only app I would skip is the mozz-tomato-peppers combo.

The zesty, buttery “Francese” like chicken was spot on. Same with the perfectly flaky, delicious Sole. But the one main that people often go nuts about here is the Veal Don Peppe. Breaded veal cutlets covered with tomatoes, peppers and onions. Its a crowd pleaser even on crowded stomachs. 

And just when the food coma starts to kick in, we still rarely miss dessert here. From the Tiramisu, Tartufo, and Sorbetto, its hard to go wrong here. While the prices have increased over the years, the fine house red is still fairly affordable. Not the most touristy location, but you wont find a more fitting “welcome to NYC” when arriving to JFK. Go!     

      

Categories: New York City, Queens | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Indian Table – A Goan Delight in Brooklyn

Posted on November 22, 2023 by Ziggy

Its official boys and girls. Indian Table is now my favorite Indian in NYC. It may change next month or even next week. But for the time being, this Cobble Hill gem fits my taste like a favorite pair of shoes that you can only wear once or twice a week. Otherwise you risk losing their efficiency or they become stinky.

Indian Table is far from the typical NYC Indian, even though they offer some typical dishes. Thankfully I might add, after trying their killer Butter Chicken. Indian Table is Goan at its core, so plenty of Goan and hence Portuguese influences throughout the menu. There’s even a Pasteis De Nata for dessert. At the helm is a seasoned Eric McCarthy whose resume includes Michelined Tamarind and Tulsi among other notables.

McCarthy’s latest is not the Michelin kind (although you never know), but a nice bridge between sophisticated and your corner casual Indian. There’s a smart wine and cocktail list, in addition to a headache inducing food menu. The manager can masterfully guide and help with the headaches. In addition to Goan specialties, Indian Table also offers Restaurant Week theme menus that highlight different regions. On my first visit, it was the Malvan region, with a group of “Chowhounds”.

As for the food, duds are hard to come by. Eric’s Punjabi Samosas are rock solid, while the tomato ladened crispy cauliflower is more typical. The star early on was the beautifully marinated Achari Chicken Tikka. Smoky, minty, and flavor packed. Speaking of smoky, we wished for more wonderful chorizo from “Auntie Rosie’s Choris Pao” and less of the other stuff (like the spongy bun) but I’d order it again.

The chicken lineup is the main headache culprit. It has everything I look for in an Indian restaurant including my long time friend, the Chicken Chettinad. I tend to pick places that have this on the menu. Peppery, well balanced, and really one of the best versions I’ve had. While the Butter Chicken was not on the menu this night, they happily made a solid version. A rare Xacuti (Goan specialty) was fine, though some did not appreciate the star anise and fennel notes.

Another hit was the Konkan Railway Mutton. Unclear if its a riff on the railway classic that was served on the trains between Bombay and Calcutta during British rule, or another railway creation. Regardless, its another tender, succulent, red pepper based goat curry. Mutton in Indian cuisine is referred to goat and sheep, just to confuse us further.

With all these meat dishes, I opted for Jackfruit Biryani. Jackfruit did an admirable job subbing for meat, with some aid from the potato, but I was still missing the meat slightly. Like when your favorite team wins the game, but dont play as well as they usually play. I wasnt missing the meat at all in the Achari Baigan (eggplant) however. A wonderful lineup, all washed down with a fine Sancerre which is quickly becoming our new favorite white.

Indian Table
234 Court St (Cobble Hill, Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Achari Chicken Tikka, Choris Pao, Punjabi Samosas, Chicken Chettinad, Butter Chicken (ask if not on the menu), Konkan Railway Mutton, Achari Baigan

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , , | 2 Comments

Hummus and the City

Posted on October 18, 2023 by Ziggy

I will get back to our regularly scheduled programming in no time. But first, as I firmly, unapologetically stand with Israel, I want to share some of my favorite Israeli restaurants in NYC today. They can use some love these days.

Taste of Akko (Brooklyn)

Ok, if you read my previous post, you’d know I’m a little biased with this one. Its essentially taste of home for me. But after multiple visits to this homey fast-casual in the heart of Midwood, I’m very impressed. With only four or so tables, and with the animated owner, it really is like eating at someone’s house. Its a small, concentrated menu with much regard to ingredients and execution for such a casual place. The falafel plate in particular is a standout, but the hummus is no slouch

Falafel Tanami (Brooklyn)

I was there today for my monthly fix. I dont even selfishly miss the days when the place was empty and I could get my falafel in seconds. But the secret got out big time after Pete Wells shockingly included this hole in the wall in the Best 100 restaurants in NYC. I never imagined that a place like this can get such honor and be included with the Le Bernardins and Per Ses, but here we are. Very well deserved.

Courtesy of Tanami

Laser Wolf (Brooklyn)

Staying in Brooklyn but moving closer to tourist central. I’m a fan of the concept here. Order one dish and get a feast of Salatim, the best Hummus and Pita in the business, and ice cream. Oh did I mention all accept dessert is unlimited. And the view isnt too shabby either. There’s one little problem with this recommendation. As of this writing, I havent actually been here. Not from lack of trying. But I’ve been to the original Philly location that has exactly the same menu and concept.

19 Cleveland (Nolita)

Lousy name, great food. This is haute(ish) Israeli where you can still get some killer falafel and hummus, but also craftier items like eggplant carpaccio, fish shawarma and short rib Bourekas. I mentioned them not too long ago as a solid brunch choice, but lunch or dinner is just as good. As they proved with their little sister, these guys can flat out cook. Speaking of which…

Nish Nush (Tribeca)

When I used to work in Hell’s Kitchen, I was that guy that would hop on a Citibike to bike 30 minutes to Tribeca, and 45 bloated minutes back for a Falafel. This is still my go-to when I’m in the area. They widened their menu significantly but pretty much the only thing I get is still Falafel and the occasional Masabacha (hummus with chickpeas and egg)

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita, TriBeCa | Tags: , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Kjun – NOLA Seoul

Posted on September 26, 2023 by Ziggy

I have to make this one brief. Got much on the plate this week. I cant even take the time to think of a better title, but this one is pretty telling once you understand. Kjun is a tiny, and I mean tiny, hole in the wall with a big soul in Murray Hill. The owner is Jae Jung, born in Seoul, trained in NOLA, refined in NYC as her bio so cleverly puts it.

Jung’s resume is one of the most impressive I’ve seen (August, Herbstaint, and all sorts of Michelined NYC establishments), and so is her cooking that naturally morphed into a Korean/Cajun mashup. Hence the name, Kjun. This is her first solo project. While we dont have a shortage of of Korean (especially in that area), nor Cajun, or even NOLA inspired Korean (Haenyeo in Park slope), I cant think of anything remotely like Kjun.

From the starters the Boudin Balls and chicken liver pate were particularly strong. Four explosive Schweddy balls stuffed with starch noodles instead of rice. The buttery and immensely flavorful pate that no one talks about might be the unsung hero. Soy marinated deviled eggs were fine but not as memorable as others. Same for the Okra Kimchi that got boring even as a side. The forgettable stuff here are only that because of the unforgettable.

All the larger dishes were solid especially the Jambalaya featuring a nice cabbage Kimchi action and juicy mixed meat. Beautiful clean flavors that stay with you for a some time. The fried chicken was above average, though I wouldn’t go as far as calling it one of the best in town as Pete Wells did. It was nicely marinated but a bit on the greasy side and too large to work with on such small tables. Sharing it for three required some planning.

We also enjoyed the cheesy grits with Andouille. Quite sweet for Andouille but it worked. For dessert we much preferred the Dalgona Banana Foster over their version of pecan pie. Think a Banana Foster and Tiramisu love child. You also get a free delicious probiotic drink at the end, and a welcoming starter bite at the beginning to get the juices flowing. Everything about the place is quirky including the stools.

Just to emphasize and help visualize, Kjun is the size of a small coffee shop. Wells jokingly compared it to a van, but its really not much bigger than a U-haul truck. The three of us got a round table that would normally be reserved for one or two. But not only we managed, I dont get a sense from reading reviews that its much of a problem for others. Perhaps most understand that its a small price to pay, and its part of the charm. This one is a major Go!

Kjun
154 E 39th St (Murray Hill)
Recommended Dishes: Chicken liver pate, Boudin Balls, Jambalaya, Grits with Andouille, Banana Foster

Categories: Murray Hill, New York City | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Hell’s Kitchen – The Magnificent Ten

Posted on September 14, 2023 by Ziggy

The Hell’s Kitchen Survival Guide is dead! Long live the Hell’s Kitchen Survival Guide! The pandemic and other unforeseen circumstances did quite the number on the Hell’s Kitchen dining scene. So many great places closed, making the old guide, the bread and butter of this site (in terms of eyeballs, not dollars. I have no interest in making money off of this) essentially useless. Since I dont work in HK anymore (but still spend plenty of time), I have no desire to revive and update the old guide as I used to do. Instead, I will give you my current top 10.

Overall I’m noticing a slow shift. A crazy amount of international offerings, with Chinese and Korean especially beginning to dominate. Eater went as far as calling Hell’s Kitchen our newest Chinatown, but I think its way premature, and you can probably still get better Thai or even Italian these days. Not a whole lot of surprises here if you’ve been following me for a while. I will try to update this from time to time, unless, you know, we get another pandemic. In that case, stay tuned for the Terrific 5!

Pure Thai Cookhouse

No shock here. I’ve been talking about Pure since it was called Pure Thai Shophouse (Chipotle lawyers forced them to change the name! Long but funny story) many moons ago. Many great Thai open and closed over the years in an area that hasnt seen a Thai shortage in over two decades. But Pure just keeps chugging along, with pretty much the same flavor packed menu since day one. And once you try much of the menu like me, the daily specials will keep you entertained.

LumLum

Remember when I wrote “many great Thai open and closed over the years in the area”? Well, one of them kinda opened with a bang. It took me a while to finally make it (not from lack of trying), and now I cant get enough. Its a bit elevated from the usual HK Thai, and quite the transformation from the previous tenant, Survival Guide darling Pam Real. They essentially got both seafood and meat departments covered with superb dishes like Steamed Fish, Crab Curry, Crying Tiger. But classics like Pad Ki Mao, and Panang Curry with beef should not be overlooked.

Dell’anima

Do you capitalize the D or not, one of the mysteries surrounding this unconventional Italian in Gotham West Market. But one thing is certain, chef Andrew Whitney and Co. can flat out cook. The far west location makes it still unknown to most visitors, but these guys essentially put Italian cuisine on the Hell’s Kitchen map since they moved from West Village. And in order to make it this far west and this long, it means they are doing something right. Either with its sick Tajarin Alla Carbonara, the stupendous Pollo al Diavolo, or anything really.

Blue Ribbon Sushi

Jack of all trades, master of many. Its almost a shame to have Sushi in the name in this case, as they do so many things very well. In fact, I rarely get sushi here, even though it’s always been top quality. Fried chicken, the sensational oxtail fried rice, and my favorite squid in the city, simply sauteed with ginger and garlic are the usual suspects. Sometimes steak when I’m feeling naughty. Slowly but surely BR has become a staple in the kitchen, even though its inside a hotel.

Ippudo

Talking about staples, here’s another one. The fact that Ippudo is now a mini chain, and the vast amount of Ramen options in Hell’s Kitchen these days, should not take away from the fact that its still one of the best area options. On the contrary, the waits arent nearly as long these days. We’ve tried many Ramen spots over the years, including other Ippudos, but the vibe/atmosphere/taste combination of “Westside” is still unbeatable.

Sicily Osteria

Probably the most important addition to the hood during the last few years. From the outside it looks like just another pretty face on super touristy Restaurant Row. But its actually one of the most Sicilian rich menus I’ve ever seen in NYC, headed by an Osteria Morini, Marea alum. The snacks including the Arancino and Pannelle are outstanding. Fantastic Busiate alla Trapanese, Couscous, and the signature Pistachio Lava Cake.

Le Sia

Ever since they said Sia to East Village and moved to the kitchen, they instantly became the most interesting Chinese around. Its Szechuan(ish) with a Cajun twist. And judging by the hefty delivery business, and being packed on a nightly basis (vast majority Chinese), its no longer a secret. You got your cumin ladened skewers (wings, cauliflower!), an array of tangy seafood boils including crawfish (though I’m partial to the snow crab), the ultra garlicky eggplant. And on a recent visit we discovered another crowd pleaser, Mongolian Beef.

Don Antonio

Some may be surprised that I omitted HKSG darling Capizzi here, especially considering Capizzi is closer to a traditional NY pizza parlor. But I just think that Don Antonio makes the best pizza around, and one of the better Diavolas in the city. That thick spicy Soppressata in simply unmatched. I tried quite a few pies over the years including the signature “Montanara” (fried pizza) but eventually settled on the Diavola. This is a classic Neapolitan where the crust is thin and softer than NY style.

Danji

Sadly as of this writing Danj is still closed due to fire at the unlicensed smoke shop next door. But I just gotta list Korean pioneer Hooni Kim’s flagship. When he’s not judging cooking competitions in South Korea, he’s doing all sorts of magic in NYC. Meanwhile you can find him at his latest venture,  Little Banchan Shop in LIC. But Danji and my favorite tofu dish in the city cant open soon enough.

Sullivan Street Bakery

Locals gonna hate me for mentioning this one. The little bakery that could, expended, renovated, and became a giant. You’ll find their bread in restaurants and shops all over the city (this is why its no longer free). But inside you’ll find the same loafs, Focaccia, and first rate pastries like Bombolini, and Canotto. Author, James Beard award winner Jim Lahey opened a hole in the wall in 1994 and the rest is history.

Categories: New York City | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Taco Tuesday – Old Morelos, New Tacombi

Posted on August 29, 2023 by Ziggy
sideways.nyc

A new short feature on EWZ. It will be just like some of the old features. You’ll see it once, and you wont see it again ;). But lets hope this one sticks. I have a feeling it will as I have a list as long as my garden hose of taco places to try and revisit. Its one of those shrinkable garden hoses, so dont get scared. We’ll kick off this very exciting feature with my favorite food neighborhood in the city, East Village.

Tacos Cuautla Morelos (East 9th)

I think there should be a special award to food establishments that survive 10 years in East Village. Very quietly this hole in the wall, mom and pop (more like uncle and niece) on East 9th keeps chugging along. While you’ll find some hints of state of Morelos specialties like Tlacoyos, this is more of a typical taqueria menu you can find all over the city.

This time I came for a taco I enjoyed in the past (Pibil) but happily discovered one even better (Lengua). Cochinita Pibil is not something you can easily find in NYC, but is a staple in Morelos. Its marinated with Achiote, a special Orange paste that gives it that red color. Frankly, after having this in CDMX, I wasnt exactly wowed by it this time, as the flavor is not as distinct. But compared to most tacos in NYC, its still pretty darn solid. The latest discovery was a beautiful Lengua (tongue). Its brand new on the menu (not even listed yet as of this writing), and its exactly what you’d expect from a nice and tender Lengua.

Tacombi (East 12th)

Total opposite to Morelos, Tacombi is not only a chain nowadays, but slowly becoming the Shake Shack of tacos now that its backed by Danny Meyer. The writing is all over the wall – a future national chain. Once a chain expends as such, it becomes forgettable unless it offers something different and exceptional. Enter the new branch on the odd corner of East 12th and 3rd where the idea is to get a little closer to a Mexico City style taqueria. Need more data, but for far so legit in both the looks and flavor department.

A staple in Mexico City is the Suadero taco, the beef (brisket) version of Carnitas. Its slowly cooked in pork fat, and its even more rare in NYC than the previously mentioned Pibil. Again, not as eye popping as the versions we had in Mexico City, but surprisingly quite moist, and just fatty enough. Something I’d definitely order again. Same goes for the pastor where you get a good amount of nice, dry (not too dry), flavorful strips. If you check your preconceived chain notions at the door, you may find yourself eating at a counter in La Condesa. Except its about 10x the price.

Eater
Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

5 Standout NYC Brunches

Posted on August 15, 2023 by Ziggy

As a self confessed food snob it has taken me decades to finally warm up to brunch. In fact at some point I simply hated the concept. I understood it, but hated it. It always felt like the industry asked Hallmark, the inventor of Valentine’s day for help. “Its simple. Just invent a fourth meal, late enough in the day where you can offer alcohol. Make it only once or twice a week so people can feel like they are celebrating something, and maybe they’ll order more alcohol”

I mean, once you take out eggs and avocado toasts from the menu, you are basically left with savory lunch items combined with sweet breakfast items. Eggs to me can be eaten all day long. In fact I normally have them for lunch. Once a month I make a more elaborate egg meal, usually on a Sunday. We call it breakfast!

But this doesnt mean I dont partake in this tradition. I do enjoy a good shakshuka at any given day and time, and I have trouble saying no to hyped up pancakes. I just dont call it brunch. Its a late breakfast or lunch for me. But I’ll play along, at least for the purpose of this post, and list 5 brunches that stand out from the rest. Most of these do have a common theme, and so not particularly diverse…

Rana Fifteen – Park Slope, Brooklyn

The last thing I expected from the Filipino FOB team is to open a Turkish restaurant. But then again, half of the team is in fact Turkish. They opened less than a year ago, and its unlike any Turkish that we know in NYC. All you need to do is order one dish. One of two egg dishes for breakfast, er, Brunch. And next thing you know, you get everything but the kitchen sink laid out in such way, you dont know where to start. As the name suggests, 15 savory and sweet homemade delights including outstanding pancakes and various spreads. Combined, its a symphony of flavors, with no bad apples to be found. This is brunch for people who hate brunch.

Chez Ma Tante – Greenpoint, Brooklyn

This is a more “traditional” brunch with two issues. Its in Greenpoint, and its dangerously close to possibly the best tacos in town, Taqueria Ramirez. But I wouldnt mention this gem unless it had at least one very good reason to schlep to Greenpoint. Pancakes, ranked up there with some of the best I’ve had in nyc, including Clinton St Bakery. Thick, crispy, fluffy, and addictively sweet. Its not exactly an area secret so prepare to wait.

19 Cleveland – Nolita

The name doesn exactly scream some of the best Israeli food in the city, like little sister Nish Nush. But to me this is just the kind of light Mediterranean fair that differentiates itself from other brunches. Expect of course solid Hummus and falafel, but also craftier stuff like eggplant carpaccio, fish shawarma and short rib bourekas. And yes, of course there’s a sick Shakshuka.

Cafe Mogador – East Village and Williamsburg

For years whenever I passed by Mogador in East Village, I had to cross to the other side of the street during peak brunch time. The many patrons waiting, sometimes for over an hour to be seated, know whats up. You forget sometimes that this is a Moroccan restaurant specializing in Tagine. Arguably, the real specialty here is eggs. Whether in Moroccan style, a la shakshuka with merguez sausage, a Sabich platter dominated by perfectly roasted eggplant, or just in a form of a very good Benedict.

Opera Cafe Lounge, Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn

Emmons Ave in Sheepshead Bay is like the local version of a tourist trap. An attractive area filled with one pretentious place after another. Opera is the one exception (that I know), consistently dishing out fresh middle eastern goodies for quite some time now. Partly due to its size, Opera has slowly become the go to place for celebrations, and just casual no reservations needed brunches. This is where we usually take my mom for brunch, and our orders are always the same. The ‘Breakfast Platter’ that includes various cold cuts, cheese, jams, and drinks. And my personal fave, Menemen (Turkish scrambled eggs) with Sujuk, a spicy dry sausage.

Categories: Brooklyn, East Village, New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

Claud – Fortune Favors the Patient

Posted on August 4, 2023 by Ziggy

A few posts ago I wrote that it takes about a year for me to check out a new restaurant in NYC. Usually, I’m in no rush, and rather wait for the establishment to find its stride, and/or the excitement to cool off. Often the stride never arrives, and they close within a year. Sometimes the hype seems artificial, and I lose interest. And sometimes, like with Claud, the hype reaches national proportions (thank you Pete Wells), and it takes roughly a year to score a table.

In this case, the plan was not to wait a full year. But after numerous attempts, I finally got a couple of bar seats, a day shy of Claud’s first anniversary. The truth is that I’ve been following Josh Pinsky ever since the Momofuku Nishi days. He called the cops on me a few times, but after a while he got used to it. When he left Nishi, I felt it was the beginning of the end, and the pandemic just expedited Nishi’s demise. Just like my touring “career”.

For Josh and partner Chase Sinzert it was only a matter of when and where. During or after the pandemic, east or west coast. Thankfully they chose the right coast, where recovered “Fukus” can appreciate them most. Claud feels like a Momofuku support club for fans and staff, with more ex Nishi than I anticipated.

But first thing first, the bread. Well actually, since I’m now over 50, the bathroom. This is got to be the most atmospheric, dare I say, romantic, toilet in the city. The lighting is perfect, its smartly decorated, and there are cookbooks for your reading pleasure in case you decide to stick around. I recommend not.

If the bread is an indication of things to come (as often is the case), you can expect brilliance the rest of the way at Claud. A sourdough with room temp, spreadable butter was soft and hard in all the right places, and pretty much bread perfection. Like truffles in Piedmont in November, the bread was center stage. It was hanging around throughout the meal, kept coming for the dishes that needed it, until we finally had to say stop.

Talking about Piedmont, this is one of the few places in the city that make Agnolotti “Plin” style all year round. Its a treat that very few restaurants make year round, some even stopped altogether due to the labor involved. But at Claud, being one of the “signature dishes”, the chicken liver Agnolotti stays to prevent rioting in East Village. Liver freak Mrs Z in particular, was in heavan.

Early on, the crab and corn fritters did the trick, with that sweet summer corn coming through nicely. And a solid buttery foie gras terrine with honey vinegar jell. Shrimp, another signature, comes sizzling on a very hot skillet. They are barely cooked, yet firm, plump, and insanely satisfying. When it comes to seafood, Pinsky doesnt mess around with too many ingredients and lets the main ingredient shine. Same goes for any raw fish you may come across (two on the current menu).

The thing about Pinsky, and Momofuku school of cooking in general, is that “Signature Dishes” is almost an oxymoron. Its a machine that continues to invent. Cooking AI if you will. On any given night you can find a dish that agrees with you most. For me it was the Halibut with cockles and green garlic. The fish was firmer than usual, not breaking apart every time you touch, yet the perfect texture. Its surrounded by a delicate complementary dashi reminiscent of a scallop dish we once had at Ko. This was pure food magic.

We couldnt find enough belly room for the much hyped mammoth Devil’s food cake. But the root beer ice cream was brilliant in itself. Whether you are into root beer in this case is almost irrelevant. Go! If you can, for Pinsky’s refined, simple cooking, and the bathrooms. In that order.

Claud
90 E 10th St, East Village
Recommended Dishes: Fritters, Foie Gras, Shrimp, Agnolotti, Halibut, Ice Cream

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , , | 1 Comment

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