After visiting Napa for the first time in 30 years, I can confidently say… Yes, and No. I can also confidently say, this is the first and last post about Napa on EWZ. This is a big planet, with hopefully more planets to come (I’m really enjoying For All Mankind on Apple). While I have a laundry list of places I want to revisit, Napa Valley is not one of them.
Lovely Mrs Z and I were in our 20’s when we first visited Napa, followed by Las Vegas which we visited often back in the day for some reason. I vividly remember touring the world famous Beringer (as per their website), buying a case of their world famous something (maybe Zinfandel). We hauled the case with us to Vegas, then on a plane, and back home to NYC, only to discover the same wine cheaper in Costco. Thats my only memory (and lesson) from that visit.
Napa was a logical choice this time as part of a long Portland-LA road trip. It seemed like a refreshing change of pace after exploring the Oregon coast. Wine, scenery, that farm to table stuff I kept hearing about. All the things I love about a destination. Hence, the problem.
This is the kind of destination we normally seek. Like the Langhe in Piedmont, Tuscany, Croatia’s Istria, Getaria and Ronda in Spain, just to name a few. Even some of the areas in Virginia near Shenandoah are shockingly striking considering its, well, Virginia. After all these destinations, Napa overall was a letdown, and quite the sticker shock. The Disneyland vibes started to kick in before we even got there.
Considering the top attraction in the valley is a 13th century style structure that resembles and sounds like an Italian castle except it costs $70, is pretty much all you need to know. But in case you need more, there’s also a Gondola ride, a wine train, and a myriad of Instagramble wineries that range from $50 to $200 to visit. With everyone trying to outdo each other, it’s essentially the worlds largest outdoor beauty contest.
While researching Napa you get a sense that paying less than $50 for a tasting is not worth the time, and anything over $50 is not worth the money. I eventually settled on Quixote Winery, Caymus Vineyards, and Francis Ford Coppola Winery. All unique, and attractive in their own way, with Caymus coming out as the group’s favorite experience, albeit at a cost ($50) for a tasting. I recently booked a tasting in Piedmont that includes 5 world class wines including Barolo, accompanies by cured meats and cheese and a property tour for $18 pp. A similar experience in Napa is around $150.
But I would be fine with a few overpriced but picturesque wineries if I could find something else to do and see, and eat some of that famous Farm to Table food I heard about all my life. But turned out every restaurant we visited is geared toward tourists, and the food reflected that. Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch has farm in its name, but the room and food felt more like a glorified Applebee’s. Angele a French Bistro served us the worst Escargot I ever had, among other duds. These are some of the most popular places in the Valley, packed to the brim every night.
But there were a few highlights including in the food department. Gott’s Roadside is the kind of burger chain every state should have. Not only quality gourmet burgers, but really crafty tacos and even salads. Why are they only in the Napa area? Another highlight was hot air ballooning with Sonoma Ballooning. A fantastic experience from start to finish, aided by a hilarious pilot. We still managed to have fun, but the question of the title stands.
Eating With Ziggy 