Lola’s is a two year old acclaimed establishment in NoMad, or Flatiron depending on who you ask. On paper, just looking at the menu, it’s the kind of place that frankly I’m getting tired of in NYC. Hefty prices for creative dishes that lack substance. Generally in NYC plates are getting smaller, prices higher, but flavors are more or less stuck. I can think of a few meals as of late that demonstrate this. Even high end meals that we enjoyed during the past few years lack that oomph to justify a return.
Travelling, even to mega touristy destinations in Europe keeps that narrative intact. Even in seemingly expensive destinations like Amalfi Coast we encountered lower prices at restaurants partly due to less than half the amount of staff. Somehow restaurants all over Europe manage quite fine without a host, busboys and a sommelier while offering the same level of service.
Oy, maybe its the post vacation blues talking. Lola’s, while not a clear exception to the rule, certainly feels like it. A veggie centric, Pan-Asian / New American created by a chef that knows a thing or two about such mashups. Not only Suzanne Cupps is Filipino on her father’s side, but she started her career at Annisa with Anita Lo, one of NYC’s Pan-Asian, New American pioneers. Cupps followed that with Gramercy Tavern, Untitled, and other gigs with Union Square Hospitality. A resume that certainly got my attention, before the NYT 100 list got everyone else’s.
Simply put this was one of the best meals we had during the last year or so. While I normally find things to complain about as you well know (its a gift), I struggle here. The lighting, vibe, space, food, everything just about perfect. Maybe the cocktail list could use some revamping, but they do have my favorite beer (more below).
One thing I really liked about Lola’s is the calmness of the open kitchen. No one shouting, ringing a bell, and any stress is not in full display. In many such places these days, it feels like I’m inside an episode of The Bear.
On to the food…
House made Naan with carrot masala yogurt – Sure it would be nice to get these things for free, like the good ol’ days (there he goes again), but this bread/dip combo is as good as it gets. Like a high end restaurant pita and buttery naan love child.
Crispy Chicken Thighs – Just about the perfect fried chicken. It had the crunch, the juiciness, the flavor, everything. Like a nice Japanese Chicken Karaage
Paraison House Salad – Caesar on crack. Instead of croutons, she adds those salty hard pretzels you see in Union Square Market. A lot of USM influence here.
Barbecue Short Rib – With baked beans. Satisfying comfort food. The sweetness of the beans cuts some of that richness. It’s just maybe a tad too old American for this new American. Maybe the only dish I wouldnt order again, but liked it.
Carolina Gold Rice Grit Cakes – Didnt sound too promising but curiosity took over. Superb! If I have to pick one dish that demonstrates Cupp’s skills, this is the one. The small amount of Japanese curry and sweet potatoes add much depth.
Chocolate Chip Cookie – Normally I wouldnt order, but oldest who already had it (she lives 5 mins away) said its a must and she was absolutely right. Maybe the best cookie I ever had. Another cameo appearance of the Union Square hard pretzels.
Leche Flan – Good. With passionfruit caramel and blueberry preserves. Maybe a little too dense. The cookie was better.
And they have Hitachino Nest Yuzu beer which means I dont even look at the rest of the drink menu. But Mrs Z struggled to find something and got stuck with an average but very pricy Margarita. Regardless, go!
2 W 28th St
Eating With Ziggy 