Portugal surprised us with its quality and depth in the food department. By the last day, we had an inside joke when we talked about how consistently well we ate on this trip. We would take turns saying “well, there was that pizza place”, referring to a Porto meal that became the lone clear failure. A small price to pay when you wing it after lunch at the brilliant Taberna Dos Mercadores, but it stuck out like a sort thumb by the end.
The Lisbon meals were particularly noteworthy as we hit one jackpot after another. Just when you thought it could not possibly get better, it did again and again. Even some celebrity sightings to boot. Talking about celebrities, last week I met Phil Rosenthal outside the Hudson theater. We both ended up sitting fairly close to each other, seeing Alex Edelman’s last show, Just For US (I actually purchased the last two tickets of the last show. You would think there would be prizes for such things). We had a very quick chat about one of his Lisbon picks below. Of course I didnt tell him about the one I cancelled.
Tapisco
Alma’s affordable little sister is not exactly a Lisbon secret, but just outside tourist central. While we were there, service was a little tied up, entertaining a mega celebrity two tables over. For privacy reasons I won’t reveal the name, but it rhymes with Emeril Shmegasse. Stellar tapas and larger rice plates like the superb Octopus rice (above). La bomba, a riff on the Barcelona snack is the bomb. Jamon and tomato toast, so simple yet so delicious. A picture perfect, traditional Bacalhau à brás (bottom). But I cant imagine one can go wrong with anything here.
Jesus é Goês
Following the footsteps of Phil Rosenthal, and the main topic of conversation on my encounter with Phil the other day. Phenomenal Goan cooking, and surprisingly a good amount of pleasant heat throughout. The Portuguese usually arent keen on spicy. The specialty of the house is the holy burgers that come with poached egg on a spoon (above). Like little umami bombs. And the curries, like Goatling Xacuti and Chicken Cafreal feature just the kind of complexity I look for.
O Velho Eurico
Reserving tables in Portugal can be trickier than Paris or NYC. O Velho Eurico is exhibit Z, for the young and talented Zé Paulo Rocha. You essentially need to start reserving in Porto and Lisbon three to five months prior. Eurico has a north Brooklyn, sort of hipster feel to it. But with such elevated cooking for a third of the price, where do I sign. Delicate cold Bacalhau salad. Plump and succulent Piri piri shrimp. Nice use of fruits and sauces throughout, like the strips of melt in your mouth peppery pork belly with orange. Excellent fried rabbit with a creamy dill sauce (my fave, above). Just some of the awesomeness you may find here.
Ramiro
I’m not exactly listing state secrets here. We liked Ramiro so much when we first “discovered” it 12 years ago, that I would be risking sleeping in the shower (because we didnt have a couch) if I didnt book it again. Not much has changed as expected from the old timer. Outstanding prawns in all shapes and sizes, especially when they come sizzling in ultra garlicky oil. The tiger prawns in particular are outrageous (above). And this is a good opportunity to lose your Percebes virginity.
Churrasqueira do Marquês
Maybe time to counter the above with a state secret. Although walking distance to tourist central Belem, very few tourists make it to the Ajuda neighborhood. Grilled chicken is not only the name of the game, but some claim best in Lisbon. By the look of the house full of happy locals, and the bird grilled to absolute perfection, who are we to argue. And being away from the center in this case, means you getting quite a bang for the buck.
Eating With Ziggy 