Posts Tagged With: La Vina San Sebastian

Pinching San Sebastian’s Old Town

Néstor Bar SteakDid you know that the act of moving one’s finger and thumb apart to zoom on a map on a screen is called Pinching?  Figured I should probably explain the title right of the bat.  But after so many years dreaming, sometimes inappropriately, about the food mecca of San Sebastian, I’ve finally, finally made it to…… Getaria.  After all that, that’s where we ended up staying for a week, and San Sebastian became a day trip.  Regrets?  None whatsoever.  But did I wish to spend more time in San Sebastian.  Well, kinda.  I wanted more, but turns out so do a lot of other people.

Turns out the San Sebastian Pintxos (“peen-chos”) crawl is the worlds worst secret.  Yes, I suppose if you are planning your first trip to Spain, a Tapas crawl in Madrid, or a Pintxos crawl in San Sebastian or Bilbao is a good way to connect with local cultures.  But its not so easy to do for tourists.  Pintxos and Tapas crawls are not just about the food, but more of a way of life.  Its a way to relax and socialize with your friends before lunch or dinner.  Its not something you force and its never meant to be done after a full day of sightseeing.  Maybe by just reading this and planning your Pintxos crawl three months in advance you are breaking the cardinal rule of Pintxo crawling.  But researching is part of the fun, right?

Néstor Bar

So research away, but keep things flexible, dont stress, and do enough explorations on your own.  Look at these as ideas and suggestions to pick from.  There’s another list of places I didnt get a chance to visit, just as long as this one.  On one of them, Borda Berri, I spent a good 7 minutes by the counter, waiting for some acknowledgement that I’m there and “what would you like sir”, but it never happened and we just left shamefully.  This place gave “packed” a new meaning.  Imagine around 40 people including food tours bigger than mine spilling into the sidewalk in a small bar that fits perhaps 15.  A NY fire Marshal wet dream

Out of 7 or so places I tried, I picked 5 that I can comfortably recommend.  Some of these are well known, some not so much.  And some suggested by our trusted guide Mikel from Tours by Basque

Ordizia – No lines, no crowds, no hoopla in this tiny hole in the wall.  You can even have a conversation with the server/bartender.  All the goodies displayed on the board.  Try the grilled squid with shrimp and ham and “Brotxeta Chuleta”, steak with peppers and potato.

Ordizia Pintxos

La Cuchara de San Telmo – Seems popular with tourists but very manageable for lunch.  Get a table outside which you may share with some new friends.  Try the signature extra large Octopus that comes butterflied and grilled to perfection.  Some of the meatiest, most delicious razor clams you’ll encounter.  And if you never had proper stewed Veal Cheeks, this one will do.

Casa Urola – An old-timer serving traditional and seasonal fare in the dining room, and haute leaning pintxos in the bar.  Try the “Urola” with lobster, the delicious squid, scallop.  And this is a good spot to try the Gilda, a skewer of anchovies (keep reading…), olives and pickled peppers, named after Rita Hayworth, who was similarly “spicy and salty”.  Gilda the movie was extremely popular in Spain.  And if you are not a big fan of anchovies, try this anyway.
Casa Urola - Squid
Néstor Bar – How to describe Néstor Bar?  Imagine a quiet, comfortable table in the corner, soothing easy listening in the background, with the occasional laughter of a young loving couple celebrating their 5th anniversary, and a waiter that makes you feel comfortable and welcomed.  Now imagine the opposite of that and you have Néstor Bar.  Wait for your “table” in chaos, until you get standing room counter for the 4 of you, but can only fit two and half.  But once you taste the steak (top), with tomato salad, and green peppers, you go “F$&ck comfort”
La Vina – Its almost unfair to make it the cheesecake stop because everything else looked so good, but the Tarta de Queso here is quite exceptional.  La Vina is world renowned for this light, addictive goodness so many come to experience.  I didnt know that we will be eating so many cheesecakes in north Spain, but this one easily topped them all.
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Categories: Spain | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

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