Sometimes it starts with a photo. I remember late in the planning stages, seeing a photo of the Jaén cathedral from the top of town and before you know it, I’m researching olive oil producers, area castles, and the exact location of that shot. I’ll save you the headache: Mirador “El Balcón del Santo Reino” on Google Maps.
The Mirador and Castillo de Santa Catalina, the 8th century castle that King Ferdinand III of Castile captured in 1246 are reasons enough to make Jaén a worthy stop between Cordoba and Granada. According to legend, after defeating the Nasrid dynasty stronghold, Ferdinand climbed to the castle and drove his sword to the ground. Probably not a good idea, but I’m sure he had more swords. Roughly 250 meters from the castle, that spot is now marked with a cross, overlooking Jaén and the rest of the countryside.
In the few hours of visiting Jaén we saw both a thriving town (before lunch), and a sleepy one (after lunch). The best example of that was right in front of the cathedral. We are well outside the tourist route. Another surprise was a series of murals in the southwest edge of the town. A lot of cats (including real ones) and stairs.
But the largest bonus was discovering a thriving food scene. Jaén, with just about 100,000 population boasts four Michelin star establishments, including the famed Baga. A mini San Sebastian if you will. Being in the middle of perhaps the most important olive oil region in the country may have something to do with it.
I dont recall exactly why I chose MangasVerdes over Baga. Perhaps I wanted something simpler, or Baga’s latest reviews didnt do it for me. I question my decisions more than anyone else. And when we showed up at an empty restaurant at 1:30pm, our reservation time, I questioned some more. I was confused why they were turning people away. But by 2:30 the place was packed to the brim with locals.
A young staff without much English did a masterful job managing the house. I may never understand how they do it with half the staff of American restaurants of the same size. The food was traditional with a fun Asian twist that actually works. More often than not, it doesnt. A top 5 of the trip meal, maybe even top 3. Considering the doozies we had, its saying something.
Expertly prepared Duck confit spring rolls that came Ssam style. Silky smooth, flavor packed Foie Gras. Phenomenal, explosive Chicken Croquetitas that came like a dozen eggs with curry sauce. Probably my favorite dish. Octopus on a bed of potato cream, as good as it was prob my least favorite. More excellence from the Oxtail ravioli. Panna Cotta and choc cake were the exclamation point.
Eating With Ziggy 