Posts Tagged With: Andalucia

Top 15 Things We Ate in Andalucia

Posted on September 18, 2024 by Ziggy

Shrimp a la Plancha at Blanca Paloma (Seville) – There are plenty of reasons to visit the colorful Triana neighborhood in Sevilla. Ceramics, the market, the scene on Calle San Jacinto, and the many notable restaurants. Speaking of the Calle, you may even see locals munching on the same beautiful Shrimp I recommend trying at the awesome Blanca Paloma.

Cheese and cured meats at Bar Casa Morales (Seville) – A time warp, entertaining locals and now tourists since 1850, and still owned by the same family. Keeping it mostly simple with classics like the fine Tortilla, and Galician Octopus. But after sampling cold cuts all over the city up to that point, this high grade selection was particularly eyepopping.

Egg with mushrooms at Amara (Seville) – I couldnt get enough of the egg dishes in Andalucia. Mostly the egg and potato variety. Not surprisingly, a Basque inspired 65 degrees egg with mushrooms, and truffles, part of a €48 tasting menu won the egg crown. Chef/Owner Javier Fabo grew up in the Amara neighborhood in San Sebastián, and trained at French Laundry, Gordon Ramsey, and other notables. So doh!

Carillera at Bodeguita Romero (Seville) – You have two options here. Come when this local legend opens, or face the consequences of waiting an hour or more. Either way, dont make the mistake we almost did and leave. People come for the Pringa (Pork Sandwich), but everything else was just as good if not better. I could have very easily put the Salmorejo (like a tomato soup) or the expertly cooked whole grilled squid here. But the ultra tender Carillera (pork cheek) stood out.

Puntillitas at Eslava (Seville) – This is another one of those local legends. You will witness a crowd in and out at all times. People go after some of the award winner like the egg, the must try “Cigar” and honey ribs. But for us it was the succulent, if not addictive Puntillitas (fried baby squid) that stole the show.

Cheesecake at Castizo tapas bar (Seville) – Easy rule of thumb in the region. If you see Torrijas (like French Toast) or cheesecake on the menu, pounce. Even if you are from NYC. We’ve had a number of wonderful cheesecakes all over the region, but this creamy goodness at Castizo won the cake. See what I did there?

Octopus with fried pig ears at Garum 2.1 (Cordoba) – After a shaky start in Cordoba we got quite the treat at the exceptional Garum 2.1, partly thanks to a rare breed waiter. But the food did much of the talking, or singing really in the case of the Octopus with fried pig ears over the creamiest potato purée this side of Lyon. Baby angels singing to be exact.

Cogollos Ajillo at Bar los Romerillos (Cordoba) – Researching food in travel is almost pointless. Just follow the menus. You may discover all sorts of surprises that never came up in your research. Case in point, Cogollos Ajillo, lettuce topped with fried garlic or garlic sauce. At this very local diner-like joint on the other side of the Roman bridge, its one of the specialties.

Chicken Croquetitas at MangasVerdes (Jaen) – Tiny Jaen has no shortage of good food, even Michelin stars. I was worried when the place was empty at 1:30pm. But then I remembered we are in Spain. Standing room only by 2:30. Fantastic, Asian inspired playful fair, especially the explosive Chicken Croquetitas that arrived like a dozen eggs with a super complimentary curry sauce.

Squid ink rice with Octopus at El Trillo (Granada) – The Alhambra is always the center of attention in Granada, and you cant legally leave without a meal at a “Carmen” house overlooking her majesty. At El Trillo, you have that option on the terrace, along with a cozy garden. And the food is not too shabby, especially the seafood. I’m a sucker for good squid ink dishes and this one with grade A ingredients was as good as they get.

Jamon at Oliver (Granada) – While not a flawless meal, this Bourdain approved legend produced plenty of hits. Refreshing tomato with burrata and pesto, grilled squid were some of the winners. But the quality best of the trip Jamon was a revelation. Seemingly popular with locals and tourists, so reservations strongly recommended.

Tapas at Bodegas Ramos-Paul (Ronda) – Tiny Ronda has three mentions here, more than any large city except Seville. This is not a restaurant but a winery just north of town. A stunning property, surrounded by scenery rivaled by Tuscany and very few others. Affordable, delicious robust reds because this is not Rioja fame. Munching on well selected cheese and cured meats in that setting is magical. Thats why you stay in Ronda for longer than one night.

Chickpeas with Chorizo at El Lechuguita (Ronda) – People should come to Ronda just to experience this place. Try arriving before opening to get a spot on line, and head straight to the bar as soon they open. Not only the decor hasnt changed much during the last 50 years, but prices as well. An extensive menu with most tapas costing €1.2!! And quality stuff like the Shrimp skewers, Pate, eggs, and the best of show, spiced to perfection Chickpeas with Chorizo. The best value we’ve encountered in all our travels.

Chicken with Fideos at Casa Mateos (Ronda) – Everything we ate in Ronda followed by “one of the best of the trip” talk, and Casa Mateos was possibly the best meal. A flawless meal that got better with each course. The outrageous Chicken with Fideos was a highlight. Which is saying a lot considering the other main was perfectly cooked beef.

Mollete de Atún at La Cosmopolita (Malaga) – Calling this a sandwich feels very wrong. Mollete translates to muffin (like English Muffin I suppose), but its actually IGP protected buns from Antequera, a town nearby. The Mollete de Atún at Dani Carnero’s La Cosmopolita is a well crafted raw tuna sandwich. Poke sandwich if you will, except that every ingredient is top notch and the whole combination is fantastic.

Categories: Spain | Tags: Andalucia, Best Dishes in Andalucia, Best Things we ate in Andalucia | Leave a comment

Caminito del Rey – The Safest Scariest Hike in the World

Posted on August 30, 2024 by Ziggy

If you are even remotely into hiking, add this to the bucket list. 7.7 km, half of which on an elevated narrow boardwalk secured to the side of a cliff on top of a spectacular gorge. Once nicknamed the most dangerous hike in the world, its not nearly as scary today. After a record 5 people killed in 2000, officials finally decided to do something and took 15 years to build a new path. Imagine graduating with a civil engineering degree and getting hit with this assignment.

Considering the commercial aspect of this attraction and the way its organized, the hike as expected felt completely safe. The spectacular vistas on every turn help forget that a few wooden boards are between you and stuff on the rocks (sorry). The only time you feel like you had enough is during the last 30 minutes. A very boring walk to the bus that didnt seem to end.

Although outside of most tourist radar in Andalucia, you need to reserve this months in advance. Most likely, like us, you’ll reserve a timed walk with a guide (extra) as the DIY tickets are few and sell out quickly. At some point during the tour you may opt out and walk at your own pace. The guide will fill you in with the history and local flora and fauna. At some point our guide pointed to a bird flying above us and asked us what it was, and all I could think was partridge, after the amazing dinner the night before. Partridge was incorrect she said.

The one thing most blogs dont tell you is that it takes 45-60 minutes to get from the parking lot to the starting point, which involves a shuttle and a hike in itself. Thats why the small print will suggest to arrive an hour early. But I dont think they turn anyone away if a little late, due to the difficulties involved to get there. Although the hike is only two hours or so, allow at least half a day for this.

Unless you have an incredible amount of energy, do Caminito del Rey in the morning. 10:30 was ideal for us but I would go even earlier. Allow an hour to get there from Ronda, Malaga or elsewhere. Its a good stop when moving from one base to another. There is some food huts at the end, but I would avoid at least the milkshakes since everyone who had them in our group got sick. Go!

Categories: Spain | Tags: Andalucia, Caminito del Rey, Hiking, Travel, travel+photography | Leave a comment

Garum 2.1 {Cordoba} – Bistronomics 101

Posted on July 2, 2024 by Ziggy

When you follow a dud with a triumph the next night, it feels particularly gratifying. Two duds in a row on vacation is hard to stomach, like watching a US presidential debate these days. Even an average meal after a dud feels incomplete. You need an epic to compensate, and that’s what we got at Garum 2.1, along with one of those rare breed waiters.

Talking about presidential debates, just like Bidenomics, Bistronomics is all about empowering from within. In Andalucia it means taking traditional dishes like Salmorejo, Rabo de toro to the next level. There’s a menu display outside of Garum (or was it inside) that upon closer inspection is actually a trophy display. A list of Garum 2.1 Tapas including traditional that received awards. As a tourist, you appreciate places that take tradition and culture seriously. You feel that throughout the the south of Spain especially thanks to places like Garum 2.1.

I chose Garum over the now closed Paco Morales bar. After taking a close look at the latter I was just not feeling it. One reason I chose Garum was the numerous mentions of one particular waiter which we happen to get as well. In Malaga we encountered our favorite overall staff of the trip, but this may be the most brilliant waiter. Humble, super polite, accommodating, and really just another level of service. Truly a rare breed.

As tourists we are hardly Salmorejo (sort of a cold tomato soup) experts, but this was pretty darn good. As with most Salmorejos we had, the flavor is fairly strong (a good thing), and overpowering most of the “toppings” (still a good thing). So they look and feel more or less like beauty contests if anything. But the flavors were prevalent with this one.

If you never had a proper Spanish Tortilla this is a good place to try it. Just the right texture. Octopus with fried pig ears over creamy potato purée was the star of show. The creamy potato was an unexpected Andalucian specialty we encountered throughout the region. The Rabo de Toro (oxtail) was something we couldnt get enough during this trip, and this award winning version might have been the best one.

A new dish on the menu was Artichoke with seafood and a superb seafood bisque I could drink like a smoothie. A rule of thumb in Andalucia is Torrija (like a bread pudding) and/or cheesecake for dessert wherever available. Here you get another great Torrija and a fine cheese mousse with fruits. Washing it all down with another excellent Verdejo. Go!

Categories: Spain | Tags: Andalucia, Garum 2.1, Garum 2.1 Cordoba, restaurants, Travel | Leave a comment

Malaga (and Area) Random

Posted on June 25, 2024 by Ziggy

I’m entitled to one lazy post per quarter, where I just show you some shaky hand pictures and call it a day. Hey, I dont make the rules. But I might as well take this opportunity to inform you that Malaga is stunning. We expected an average Spanish metropolitan with the usual array of historic sites. But instead we got a picturesque historic center that made us cancel all the historic sites we planned.

Winding, narrow streets full of monuments and striking architecture. Its a giant maze of cuteness (as much as I dislike using the word). Whenever we tried to see other areas like SoHo (dont get me started again), Malaga Park and port area, we were drawn back to the historic area like a magnet. Make sure to see the eye popping Mercado Central de Atarazanas as well. Earlier in the morning preferably as it can get crowded during lunch time.

Colomares Castle nearby is good for what it is. A good way to spend an hour or so for selfies watching people doing selfies. Its a unique little place that can be combined with Mijas. Or skip both if you are pressed for time and spend more time in Malaga. The one thing I wouldnt skip however is Caminito del Rey. One of the most spectacular, terrifying but very doable hikes you’ll ever encounter. More on that on another post.

Highly recommend the H10 Croma hotel. Best H10 so far that ticks all the boxes. I already mentioned the terrific La Cosmopolita, one of three Dani Carnero establishments, with the head chef being the former owner of Da Andrea in NYC. Dont have any other food recommendations, but the food scene seems promising. Add Malaga to the mental bucket list.

Categories: Spain | Tags: Andalucia, Malaga, Travel, travel+photography | Leave a comment

This is Alhambra

Posted on May 7, 2024 by Ziggy

The second most visited site in Spain after La Sagrada Familia is a bucket list item you didnt know you have. It’s the first thing you have to book when planning your Andalucia trip, and it’s the main reason visitors flock to Granada. When we visited in mid April, it was sold out through May according to our trusted guide Asier Garmendia.

No pictures, videos, stories, will properly prepare you for the Alhambra. You will mostly see pictures of what looks like a fortress from a distance. But what you’ll find inside is an entire city dating back to medieval Islam. The only such preserved city in the world that survived 800 years of earthquakes. Constructed by multiple generations of Sultans (Nasrid Dynasty) between 1238 and 1492, its the last Muslim stronghold to rule Spain.

Its essentially a combination of Moorish fortresses, palaces, courtyards, and gardens + one palace by a Spanish ruler, Emperor Charles V, for good measure. It’s something straight out of Game of Thrones. Although unlike other palaces and castles in the area (Seville’s Alcázar, Castillo Almodovar del Rio), Alhambra wasn’t featured in GOT. Other than some documentaries, Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown, and some old movies nothing was filmed here. Getting a permit must be pretty tough these days. It took a small miracle for GOT to get the OK from the Alcázar.

Allow 3-4 hours to see it so bring your favorite Granola bars from home, and/or those oily salty almonds you’ll see in markets and stores. It’s one site best appreciated with a guide, and Asier is your man. He will take care of the tickets, and he knows this complex inside out, besides possessing a wealth of information. You’ll see how math, poetry, water and time play such key roles with the architecture. You’ll hear stories that would make Telenovela producers take notes.

The gardens of Generalife alone are worth the price of admission. Ever heard of the Julio Iglesias Rose? You can find it here. Any Washington Irving fans here? I didnt think so. He was inspired to write Tales of the Alhambra while living inside it. People live inside Alhambra even today. Remarkable considering the 6000 guests who come here every day.

Simply put this place is something else. Unlike anything we’ve ever seen. It makes you wish you were a better photographer, or in my case, a photographer. Add it to the top half of the mental list. Somewhere between Český Krumlov and Buenos Aires.

Categories: Spain | Tags: Alhambra, Alhambra Spain, Andalucia, Travel, travel+photography | 1 Comment

Ronda – The Accidental Romantic Tourist

Posted on April 30, 2024 by Ziggy

Once in a blue moon you come across the perfect tourist town. It was in Segovia in 2019 where I realized what it takes to be one. Small, unique, food destination, plenty to do and see for tourists, and one you want to experience in the morning and evening where the tour buses leave. Ronda – check, check, check and then some.

The only thing missing that Segovia had was a local vibe in the evening, but that’s because of the clear separation between the touristy historic center and the rest of the city where the locals hang out. For us tourists, we couldnt get enough of the center including its tremendous food offerings. While most people come here on a day trip or stay overnight, by the time you finish reading this post hopefully you’ll see why it’s a mistake. You need at least two nights.

Ronda is the type of place you want to take your spouse on a surprise romantic getaway. Except unless you live in the south of Spain, its fairly hard to do. When we visited the excellent Ramos-Paul winery nearby, we met a couple from Jerez where the guy did exactly that to his wife and one month old daughter. A surprise day trip to Ronda on her birthday. The daughter wasnt amused.

Right near Puente Nuevo, the “new” bridge that took 34 years to built in 1793 after the previous bridge collapsed and killed 50, there’s this interesting mural. It shows the town’s unique landscape and quotes from various romantic travelers that found inspiration in Ronda. That did not include more recent names like Ernest Hemingway and Orson Wells who spent significant time here, and even more recently Michelle Obama. Ronda is so tiny and relatively unknown, when someone like Michelle Obama visits, people still talk about it 15 years later.

Exploring the majestic Puente Nuevo alone, from the top and bottom requires a few good hours. They recently reopened a path that leads closer to the bridge where you can get a close look at the chasm that divides the city. You need to wear a helmet for this one. The first trip where we had to wear a helmet, not once but twice. The other one being an hour away at the eyepopping Caminito del Rey hike. More on that on another day.

But the main reason to stay an extra night or three is the area, Serrania de Ronda, which rivals Tuscany as perhaps the most beautiful region we’ve ever seen. Just north of Ronda you got a wine region that produces surprisingly robust reds, judging from our Ramos-Paul visit. The wines are still affordable because this is not Rioja.

10 minutes out you have the Reservatauro Ronda, a horse and bull farm where you can learn about the rich history of Ronda bull fighting and horse breeding. Further out you have another majestic town, Setenil de las Bodegas where houses are built into the cliffs. And then you have other whitewashed towns like beautiful Olvera not far away. I already mentioned the infamous Caminito an hour away. Plenty to do and see here if you have a few days. Ronda complements the large city filled Andalucian itinerary very well.

Make sure to spend quality time in both the center and old town, the two distinct neighborhoods on both sides of the bridge. Dont dwell too much on individual attractions as every other blog tells you. See the bullring if you must, the second oldest in Spain after Seville, and the oldest constructed entirely of stone. You can also get a good view of it from the rooftop of Hotel Catalonia. Stay at the Parador if you must for the incredible views and to finally say “I stayed at the Parador in Ronda” at cocktail parties. Though between us friends, not the most comfortable hotel.

Dining in Ronda requires its own dedicated blog posts. Pound for pound Ronda may be the top food destination in Andalucía for its size. Between the amazing Casa Mateos, the legendary El Lechuguita, and Benito Gómez’s Tragatá, there’s your 2-3 days of heavenly eating right there. We managed two of the three. Every conversation about food with a local results in “Oh you have to go to Tragatá and Casa Mateos”. One even helped us with what to order at the latter. Spoiler alert: Sickest goat cheese salad ever.