Laser Wolf – Winner on the Roof

Lazar Wolfe, the butcher from Fiddler on the Roof, will need to settle for a rooftop restaurant in NYC to be named after him after being rejected by Tevye’s daughter Tzeitel. Not enough? Ok, throw in another restaurant in Philly, 12 goats, and a concept that not everyone understands.

Michael Solomonov is arguably the country’s most renowned Israeli chef (Alon Shaya fans might have a say). His empire in Philly includes Zahav, Dizengoff and Laser Wolf among other places. Dizengoff, the Humuseria still going strong in Philly after an unsuccessful run in NYC’s Chelsea Market. I remember sitting in Chelsea Market having a long conversation with Michael, thinking what can possibly go wrong. Turns out its location, location, location. Tourists simply dont care much for Hummus.

What followed was another concept, and what looks like a more successful NYC run. The concept might sound simple, but in the restaurant industry nothing is. Choose an item from the grill menu and they’ll take care of the rest. That includes 10 salatim, the world famous Hummus and pita, and ice cream. So say, the Chicken Shishlik (fancy for kebab) and its shocking sticker price of $50 includes all the other stuff, valued at $26 on their own.

Easy, schmeasy, no? I think even Lazar the butcher would appreciate a scheme like this where everyone wins including our precious brain cells. They really need to do a study on how much time men spend thinking about what to order. We think about tomorrow’s dinner after breakfast yesterday, and if its a restaurant we know the menu by heart hours, sometimes days prior to the meal.

Laser Wolf

Yet so many reviewers are confused and/or totally miss the mark. “You are paying for the views”, “5 meatballs for $55?”, and my favorite, “the chef should be very transparent that shishlik and koobideh are Iranian foods, not Israeli”. People are not only confused about Israeli food, but prices in NYC. Expect to pay the average for a NYC full service meal, $80-100 pp.

My only gripe is that the Salatim didnt have the same oomph as the original Philly location. The two eggplant dishes, roasted Bulgarian style, and Babaganoush were the standouts, though the only thing we ordered more (beside the Hummus) were the pickles. The fact that you can taste a bunch of small plates and order more (free of charge) of your favorites is a feature in itself.

The best part of that feature is the ability to ask for more pita and Hummus, some of the best in the business. Similar to Alon Shaya’s Safta and Saba (Denver, NOLA), it’s some serious chickpea magic. Dizengoff and its Hummus menu that includes an array of toppings would thrive in more local, health conscious environments like Tribeca, East and West Village.

As for the grill items, this time we tasted the newish multi-meat Keves Kebab, a respectable Mititei (Romanian style kebab) like meatballs. And a fine Steak Shishlik that didnt lack texture nor flavor. The Dorade, even though slightly overcooked was a table favorite, and a decent size. There’s even a punchy Date-Harissa Wings that comes with Tehina Ranch from the a la carte menu. Getting that instead of a grill item means adding an order of Hummus + Salatim, unless you are eating solo and/or skip the salads altogether.

If you have a choice go to the cheaper and arguably better Philly location. But Laser Wolf at the top of the Hoxton hotel in Williamsburg is a sound option for middle eastern fair in NYC. And the views of the Manhattan skyline are not too shabby either.

Laser Wolf
97 Wythe Ave (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Hummus + Slalatim, chicken liver Pate, wings, Steak Shishlik, Keves, Dorade

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Four Gems in Seville

I was about to write about one highlight in particular but I feel generous today. I wont go into details other than on some of the regional specialties that I’ll mention but Andalucia has a rich, vibrant, and very different food scene than the rest of Spain. And seeing even the more refined places keep traditions alive is much appreciated, especially for a tourist. We had all sorts of food experiences in Seville, but these are the four that dazzled our taste buds in ways I can not describe (for the Top Secret fans).

Bar Casa Morales

One of those time warp experiences. Opened in 1850 and still owned by the same family. You feel the history as soon as you walk in. Another entrance to the back room around the corner (that we discovered by accident). Try to arrive when they open if you dont want to wait, and dont be intimidated if you dont speak the language. Try the quality cold cuts, Tortilla, Galician Octopus, but something tells me they can do no wrong. C. García de Vinuesa, 11

Bodeguita Romero

Come for the famous Pringa and stay for the rest of the menu. This is another local legend. Best to arrive when they open or risk long lines. But whatever you do, dont give up on it. While the Pringa (Pork Sandwich) was indeed outstanding, we liked everything else just as much. The Salmorejo (like a tomato soup) is addictive. Try the expertly cooked whole grilled squid. And the immensely flavorful and tender Carillera (pork cheek). C. Harinas, 10

Blanca Paloma

I’ve already written about this jewel in the colorful Triana neighborhood. Its hard but not impossible to reserve but best to show up on the early side (sense a theme here?). For us Americans eating before the locals start flocking in (2pm for lunch, 9pm for dinner) didnt require a great effort. Try anything and everything shrimp including eggplant stuffed with shrimp, mini garlic shrimp burgers, and shrimp a la Plancha. C. San Jacinto, 49

Amara

Saving the best for last. Our top meal in Seville also happened to be the most expensive. Though a €48 tasting menu was still tremendous value for us New Yorkers. Chef/owner Javier Fabo grew up in the Amara neighborhood in San Sebastián, and trained at French Laundry, Gordon Ramsey, and other notables. Tiny Amara is a beautiful homage to the Basque heritage with much emphasis to local traditions.

Great bread is often an indication of things to come and that’s no different here. You may start the journey with a complex Ajoblanco (cold soup) made with coconut, cashews, garlic, pineapple, and other goodies. Then maybe a lovely Croqueta with squid and squid ink, followed by Artichoke in Jerez butter and Iberian Chicharron. Then maybe a 65 degrees egg with mushrooms, truffles, a Basque classic. If there’s a large rice dish with pork (top) as a special, you may want to pounce on it too. C. Zaragoza, 18

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Cotra – An Izakaya Sensation in Gowanus

June 30, 2025 Update: The more I try, the better this place gets. The north Brooklyn food scene is very strong at the moment, and Cotra is quickly becoming a top 5, if not top 3 for us and friends. Talking of which, it’s best to come here with friends, preferably not picky, in order to try more. Great bar scene all around the neighborhood for a pre/post meal drink. Though my favorite discovery this time was a Spanish market called Mercado Central on the corner of Third and Union. A nice selection of tinned seafood and other items, some hard to get.

The Addictive Cabbage is still that, but it will feel less so once you try the brilliant Sun Dried Tomato Edamame, and/or Spicy Cucumber. Something happened to the Okonomi Fried Potato that made me appreciate it much more this time. Maybe the crispiness, the sauce combination, or maybe hypnosis by the dazzling Bonito Flakes. I can look at them all day.

The Mochiko Chicken is still fabulous. The steak is better to share just between two, so I skipped this time. The Tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) is solid, but a little basic when compared to the rest. Perhaps the best discovery this time was a butterflied whole Branzino with the bones removed. Beautifully cooked, and a nice combination of complimentary items. As for drinks, try the Suigei Tokubetsu Junmai (Drunken Whale) Sake.

Aug 2, 2024 Post:

I’ll make this one short and sweet. This Izakaya in the very up and coming Gowanus is excellent. One of those meals where every aspect of the experience satisfied. From the ease of making reservations (a luxury in NYC), to the food, and prices. Paying $150 for two for a full service meal with my usual overordering these days is like going retro 2018. Happy hour prices on a Saturday night helped, but the menu is still fairly priced for NYC.

Opened just over a year ago by three friends with extensive cooking experience. A typical Izakaya menu with sprinkles of innovation and the execution of a high end French/Japanese. Its the type of fun extensive menu where I want to try every single dish. Being a “tapas bar” means you can try a bunch of small dishes, or mix in one or two large ones. The most expensive item at the moment is the Ribeye ($36). Have you seen the prices of high end meats in restaurants all over the city these days?

I have said it before and I will say it again. Gowanus is transforming into a force to be reckoned with. In neighborhoods as such you need to differentiate yourself in order to attract outsiders and become a destination spot. Its incredibly tough to simply rely on immediate area locals. “Lets go walk around in the Gowanus” is something almost no one ever said here. And if they did then the most likely reply would be “what is that”.

The food rundown…

Addictive Cabbage – True to the name. Yamitsuki (“addictive”) izakaya-style cabbage. Crispy, nicely dressed. It grows on you quickly, and tastes even better with other dishes like the fried chicken. Before you know it, you really cant stop eating it.

Fried Potatoes – With Bonito Flakes and sweet Okonomi sauce. A serviceable dish. Some may be surprised at the sweetness but it works.

Mochiko Chicken – Just what you would expect even in high end Japanese. Expertly cooked fried chicken with Harissa Mayo. Light batter, supremely tender, and juicy.

Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice – Very solid. Even though I was hoping for for better tuna/rice ratio there was plenty of flavor here, and I would order again.

Yakiniku Ribeye Steak – Perfectly cooked, well marbled Ribeye with Miso Scallion Butter (a bit chunky but fine). They keep rotating their steak offerings but I imagine they cant do much wrong with any of them.

Mrs Z wanted ice cream in Dumbo and my immediate thought was the excellent Miso Cherry from OddFellows. So no dessert sampling here, but hopefully this is the start of another beautiful relationship. Go!

Cotra
451 Carroll St (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Addictive Cabbage, Mochiko Chicken, Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice, Potatoes, Yakiniku Ribeye Steak, Branzino, Sun Dried Tomato Edamame, Spicy Cucumber

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , , | 1 Comment

The Ultimate Chinatown Food Tour

Since I still get food tour requests four years after quitting touring, I’ve been on a mission to find a solid alternative. A local who possesses the kind of knowledge, energy, and passion for NYC food, especially street food. Someone who will take you to places even locals dont get a chance to discover. A guide with an actual sense of humor, not the kind of dad jokes I shared with many of you.

I’m tempted to write “I’m still looking”, but that would be just another ego inspired bad dad joke. The fact of the matter is the entire Ziggy clan, including the food snubs, thoroughly enjoyed the Ultimate Chinatown Food Tour with Scott the other day. And in case you are wondering right off the bat, yes I paid for it.

Food tours is a subject near and dear to my heart. The reason I got into this business to begin with was that the offerings 10 year ago were quite poor, and I wanted to do something no one else did. Judging by the fact that I reached #4 on Trip Advisor (out of 250 experiences), I’d say it succeeded, but the market got saturated and commercial in a hurry. Even foreign based entities like Spain’s Devour are now offering tours in NYC.

As a guide, and one that took many food tours around the world (including Devour in Spain), I will share with you the formula. Food tours are half food, half location/places, and half guide! You need a fun and energetic guide, delicious and varied food, and places that come with interesting stories. The rest like history, general knowledge isnt as important (not that it was lacking here). With Scott its an easy check, check, check.

I’m not going to spoil this for you by naming any of the places. I think its best not to know much. But there were quite a few surprises even for someone like myself and my oldest that spends much time in the area. I can tell you that I had some exceptional Szechuan, fantastic noodles, and a delicious item at a place I frequent but never had it. On top, you get a good sense of the local cuisine breakdown that will help you understand what Chinatown is all about.

And doing all this with Scott is the icing on the cake. He developed a special rapport with the vendors, and even learned some of the language. Seeing Chinatown on your own or through a local like this is unquestionably night and day. Its not only the preferred way, but a potential highlight of your entire trip. But I would wholeheartedly recommend this tour to locals as well.

https://ultimatefoodtours.com/

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Cabaret L’enfer {Montreal} – Enjoy the Science

Raise you hand if you think I take notes while dining out. I dont, with very rare exceptions. I dont even spend much time taking all the necessary pictures. I stopped years ago after annoying too many family and friends. It’s worth noting that a big reason for this blog is to simply keep track of where and what I eat, as opposed to whether I had a Ratatouille moment when I took my first bite of that Pate en Croute.

With that said, I did take notes at the exceptional Cabaret L’enfer. Only to delete the note by mistake yesterday. Turns out Yahoo linked Notes cant be recovered?!? So you have to deal with my memories yet again, even though it feels like this very recent meal was ages ago. After all, if its not memorable, maybe its not worth writing about.

Not only it was memorable, but this was a sound contender for meal of the year, challenging places like Foxface Natural, Ronda’s Casa Mateos, and Anguilla’s Hibernia just off top of my head. Very rarely, everything clicks as it did at Cabaret L’enfer. Even the 80’s/New Wave playlist felt like specifically engineered for us. I remember thinking toward the end that the only thing missing from this experience was Depeche Mode, and 10 minutes later, Bam, we Enjoy the Silence. The GOAT!

Music seems very important to Montreal born chef/owner Massimo Piedimonte who curates his own playlists in addition to curating a masterpiece set menu. We had a direct view of his dance moves by the charcoal grill where he’s in charge. Guidance under names you may have heard like Daniel Boulud and René Redzepi at NOMA taught him not only how to flat out cook, but how to make a place unique and your own. Very rarely you feel like you are at someone’s extended living room at a place of this caliber.

canadas100best

The set menu is a beautiful multicultural marriage, especially of the chef’s Italian and French heritage. And at $120 its decent value, especially for New Yorkers. They do try to push their wine, especially natural. Wine pairing starts at $100, but there are some interesting selections by the glass.

Homemade flatbread with Stracciatella and fresh snappy peas was just the kind of start you wished. And if the perfectly grilled Tuna Belly Tostada didnt get the juices going, three lobster filled Cappellacci surely did. Then comes a superb grilled lobster (+$20) that was much appreciated but not necessary. Its an 8 course feast full of highlights without the lobster.

The first of the second half highlights was a sliced scallop with Fava beans, and a Vermouth based sauce. This is one of those moments where you hesitate to drink your wine in order to let the taste buds keep dancing. After a dish like this, asparagus with wild Nettles almost feels like a cleanser. Probably the least favorite dish, but one that makes sense in a menu as such.

The last savory item was thee highlight. An outstanding well marbled Entrecote with bits of artichoke and Bordelaise sauce. As my neighbor proclaimed “I’m full but I can eat a few more of those”. I dont recall the last time I ate a finer piece of beef. When you are on such a culinary high, dessert can easily get lost in the shuffle. No exception here. More of a testament to the rest of the triumph. Go!

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What To Do And See Around Ronda

Ronda, smack in the middle of Andalucia isnt getting nearly as much love as the big boys. That’s partly due to its size, and partly for being, well, smack in the middle, away from the big boys. While businesses such as the the nearby wineries would prefer a Rioja type fame, as a tourist I’m not complaining. At the moment I’m researching Napa, our most famous wine country, and the difference is staggering in price, crowds and even beauty.

Simply put, the Serrania de Ronda, the southwest region of the Malaga province is a geographical wonder. It rivals Tuscany as one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever seen, and we were completely unprepared for it. Not that we needed to be more prepared (cleaner underwear?) but it totally caught us by surprise and maybe I would have made an effort to stay longer. Here’s what we did before, during, and after our stay in Ronda.

Reservatauro Ronda – This is a very unique place. A horse and bull farm about 10 km outside of Ronda. A 90 minute tour of the property, and an entertaining lesson of the rich history of Ronda bull fighting and horse breeding. You can upgrade to a light lunch, and meet other travelers in the process. And if you’ll get Desiree(sp?) as your guide you are in for a treat, including a mean Tinto de Verano.

Setenil de las Bodegas – Out of the many white villages in the area and all over Andalucia this is perhaps the most unique. Houses built into the surrounding cliffs. Its quite a sight that’s becoming more and more popular, so better to come early or late in the day to beat the crowds. If you come late, the hilly village may be a bit more challenging but it will be relatively peaceful.

Olvera – Another picturesque village, albeit this one fairly sleepy. There was quite a bit construction during our visit, so hopefully you’ll have better luck, and energy. If you are not “castled out” by this point, you may want to check out Olvera Castle for the castle itself and the splendid views of the church from a distance. And while you at it, check out Bar Pimentel for, you guessed it, Russian food, by a character owner

Caminito del Rey – The safest scariest hike in the world deserves its own post. It an hour out so you can do it as a day trip from Ronda, Malaga, Granada or on your way to one of them as we did. A bucket list item for nature lovers.

Bodegas Ramos-Paul – One of a number of wineries scattered just north of Ronda. This is an absolute stunner, managed by a husband and wife team. Wife’s family is one of the original founders of Cruzcampo, the local beer (pretty much) monopoly. Book a tour of the property, followed by a tasting of their robust, superb reds served with two to three tasty tapas. The wine is aged at least 10 years in the bottle, and costs well under $100 due to, well, not being called Rioja. A fraction of what you’ll pay in Napa for a similar experience.

Other possibilities: Cueva de la Pileta, Zahara de la Sierra, Casares…

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Leitao – Meet NYC’s Best Portuguese

Its 2024, and you would think by now we should have Portuguese Churrasqueiras spinning Rotisserie chicken in every neighborhood like in cities all over our northern neighbor. Not only we dont have that, but Portuguese food in general just never took off outside of maybe Newark, NJ. Szechuan, Thai, Korean and more took off in a spectacular way. Even Birria, something that no one knew anything about 5 years ago, can now be found in every hood. In other words, the title is not a stretch.

As I already mentioned in the latest Z-List update, Leitao is my favorite discovery of the year so far. And sadly, I dont usually discover them this way. I noticed Leitao while exploring the area, as opposed to the usual way, exploring social media. The first thing I noticed was the most ambitious Portuguese menu I’ve seen outside of Portugal, by quite a margin.

Leitao opened during the pandemic by a chef/owner from Braga. And my guess is that they opted to skip the mandatory payment to the social media mafia, opting for the good ol’ word of mouth instead. It probably took some time, but by the look of things, it paid off. In both my visits so far including at off hours, the place was mobbed, and many seem to be repeaters. We repeated two weeks after the first visit. Something as rare as summer Olympics.

The closest I got to Braga was the stunning Bom Jesus. Equally as spectacular, and maybe even as spiritual to some, is that Leitao menu which reads like the Best of Portugal. It even includes the namesake, an entire Suckling Pig meal for only $400. From my experience the Portuguese do it better than the Spaniards. After trying much of the menu, some winners emerged, and zero duds. Big menus can mean big problems, plenty of thrills, or both. Much depends on the head chef ability to handle it. So far so good…

Porco Preto – If I have to pick one unsung hero that is not getting the proper credit here. Well marbled Iberico Ribs cooked with wine and topped with a toasted garlic and chili mix. Easily falls off the bone and supremely flavorful. An absolute must.

Camarao ao Alho – Beautiful plump shrimp on top of a thick(er) Bourbon, Garlic, Lobster sauce. Comes with a nice surprise, a basket of fresh Baguettes from Orwasher bakery.

Shishito Peppers – Heaps of smoked paprika and chili, sitting on a thin, almost hidden layer of yoghurt. They provide spice levels on the menu, an this is listed as a 5. While not too spicy by any stretch, its spicy enough to affect other dishes.

Robalo – Another must that we had to have on both visits so far is this butterflied Seabass. Big flavors from the spinach sauce, EVOO, and smoked paprika rub on top. Reminded me of the famous fish at Contramar in Mexico City rather than anything we had in Portugal.

Piri Piri Chicken – Not the most tender chicken in town, but tender enough, flavor packed, and probably the most popular dish here.

Salad de Polvo (top)- You know it will be good just by the look and initial touch. The classic mammoth Portuguese no frills but plenty of thrills octopus. Outside of maybe Newark, not so easy to find in the Metrolopitan area. One of two solid Polvos on the menu.

Francesinha – If you never had a Francesinha you are in for a treat. Not quite Porto-esque, but not bad at all. An elaborate sandwich of Fillet Mignon, chorizo and salami covered with melted mozzarella and beer sauce. I shared it with three others, and still was able to taste plenty. Not sure if you can get it topped with egg as you can get in Porto.

Polvo – Unlike the salad, the “Polvo” is sliced and comes with fried potatoes and chorizo. Something I’d order again, even though I’m not sure I prefer over the Polvo salad.

Pasteis de Nata – I’m not even sure what other desserts they offer after seeing these babies being paraded all over the place. They look a little burnt but they dont taste like it. Flaky and fantastic.

Drinks are solid as well. Good Beer menu, and Portuguese inspired cocktails like Porto Tonico.

Leitao
547 Hudson St (West Village)
Recommended Dishes: All of the above especially the Porco Preto, Robalo and any of the Octopus

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Quebec City – The Good, the Great, and the Ugly

Duck Ham at Buvette Scott

After spending weeks trying to understand Quebec City’s cuisine, you’d think after spending some time in the city, the answer would be clear. Strawberries, cheese, Poutine, Montreal Smoked Meat? When you start mentioning items from other cities, maybe the list isnt that long to begin with, or cloudy at best. It seems that most items listed are of the traditional variety, and are offered in very few places. La Buche, one of those “Sugar Shacks” is one of those, but it was consistently mobbed during our stay.

Quebec City is not known for anything specific that makes people travel over 500 miles as we just did. But we did find a seemingly up and coming food scene led by a plethora of ingredient driven, farm to tables that work with whatever is in season. So you may find asparagus, morels, strawberries, etc following you from menu to menu. And things get increasingly more interesting once you leave the old town…

The Good

Buvette Scott – An intimate, mostly delicious delight with the kind of service that feels like hanging out with old friends. A special of lightly fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with mascarpone and smoked trout. The signature duck ham is like eating duck butter. Mezzelune pasta stuffed with ricotta and topped with lobster, scrumptious and pleasing to the eye. Morels stuffed with chicken wing meat with aromatic veal and wine broth, and last asparagus of the season was the best of show.

Chez Boulay-bistro boréal – A classic in the old town. A comfortable room with a working A/C turned out to be a surprise luxury in QC. Lunch specials come with soup (excellent leek and potato on this day) or salad (nice seed action). Cavatelli with broccoli and local cheese was light and perfectly executed. Lean, flaky beef cheeks with a complimentary ratatouille is a signature here and I can see why. After the meal, exit through the other end via the hotel (that’s also where the bathrooms are) and check out the Bouley sweets store. Talk about eye popping stuff.

Le Clocher Penché – Choosing between an uncomfortably warm room and a room with no ambiance was not a good start. The appetizers made up for it more than the mains. Scallops with morels, easily top dish. The sauce is the reason to order the terrific bread. Shell pasta with oyster mushrooms and Pork chop were serviceable.

Chez Mag on Île d’Orléans – If there’s one tip I can give you besides booking the one “great” is circle the entire Île d’Orléans for strawberries, picturesque homes and lobster rolls. These rolls wont win any awards, but eating them with a side of smoked meat poutine in that picnic area is hard to beat. Standing on line and listening to the conversations around you is part of the experience.

Chez Temporel – Quebece City takes their brunches very seriously. The Croque Monsieur may look like something I would make, but did not lack flavor. “Brunch Plate” featuring the Frittata of the day and other goodies did not disappoint.

Boulangerie artisanale Epi’Fanny – Close to a religious experience for croissant lovers. Jambon sandwiches, not quite Le Petite Vendome level, but will make you at least reminisce.

Épicerie J.A. Moisan – The one store you should check out. All sorts of international items displayed in a smart way. We sampled some cheese and ended up with a creamy La Bete a Seguin to enjoy with a baguette.

The Great

Melba – Our top meal in Quebec City and it wasnt even close. Opened last year in the up and coming Saint-Sauveur neighborhood by a mega talented team of cooks. Thankfully the ties to the popular Battuto don’t include reservation difficulties. One of the joys of reserving in Montreal and QC for a New Yorker is that I dont have to spend hours finding a table.

Hors d’oeuvre as the name suggests are snacks here, so I recommend at least three for two. You can even let the waiter pick as we did. Just make sure to get the “Bikini Sandwiches”. Best Grilled cheese sandwich you will ever have, with zucchini and olives and more zucchini slices on top. You may also enjoy the Barbajuans, like skinny fritters stuffed with lamb and spices with homemade babaganoush as a dip, or Deviled eggs with lobster.

Mains arent too shabby either. A delicate lobster poached Halibut with the softest carrots and lobster bisque. As good as that was, it was bested by Guineafowl with potatoes, chard and a killer combination of sauces. The good selection of wine by the glass and the addictive buttery buns sealed it. Flawless to say the least. All considering good value as well.

The Ugly

Au Petit Coin Breton – Uninspiring pricy crepes with egg, ham and cheese. Nothing like a classic Breton Galette. The crepes at Baguette & Chocolat looked more like it. Much of the old town spots are for tourists.

The Prices – I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a city as expensive as NYC outside of the US. Even Montreal seems cheap in comparison. The high tourist to local ration in QC has something to do with it.

The Tipping – Quebec City’s food scene is having a moment, and so is its tipping culture looks like. I’ve been to Canada many times, but I dont recall ever feeling the need to tip like in NYC. With every machine starting at either 15% or 18% and finishing at 25% even for ice cream, tipping less than 20% felt odd.

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Garum 2.1 {Cordoba} – Bistronomics 101

When you follow a dud with a triumph the next night, it feels particularly gratifying. Two duds in a row on vacation is hard to stomach, like watching a US presidential debate these days. Even an average meal after a dud feels incomplete. You need an epic to compensate, and that’s what we got at Garum 2.1, along with one of those rare breed waiters.

Talking about presidential debates, just like Bidenomics, Bistronomics is all about empowering from within. In Andalucia it means taking traditional dishes like Salmorejo, Rabo de toro to the next level. There’s a menu display outside of Garum (or was it inside) that upon closer inspection is actually a trophy display. A list of Garum 2.1 Tapas including traditional that received awards. As a tourist, you appreciate places that take tradition and culture seriously. You feel that throughout the the south of Spain especially thanks to places like Garum 2.1.

I chose Garum over the now closed Paco Morales bar. After taking a close look at the latter I was just not feeling it. One reason I chose Garum was the numerous mentions of one particular waiter which we happen to get as well. In Malaga we encountered our favorite overall staff of the trip, but this may be the most brilliant waiter. Humble, super polite, accommodating, and really just another level of service. Truly a rare breed.

As tourists we are hardly Salmorejo (sort of a cold tomato soup) experts, but this was pretty darn good. As with most Salmorejos we had, the flavor is fairly strong (a good thing), and overpowering most of the “toppings” (still a good thing). So they look and feel more or less like beauty contests if anything. But the flavors were prevalent with this one.

If you never had a proper Spanish Tortilla this is a good place to try it. Just the right texture. Octopus with fried pig ears over creamy potato purée was the star of show. The creamy potato was an unexpected Andalucian specialty we encountered throughout the region. The Rabo de Toro (oxtail) was something we couldnt get enough during this trip, and this award winning version might have been the best one.

A new dish on the menu was Artichoke with seafood and a superb seafood bisque I could drink like a smoothie. A rule of thumb in Andalucia is Torrija (like a bread pudding) and/or cheesecake for dessert wherever available. Here you get another great Torrija and a fine cheese mousse with fruits. Washing it all down with another excellent Verdejo. Go!

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An Update to the Update

Two days after I updated the Z-List, of course Khe-Yo closes. Just two days shy of its 11th bday. One of the only if not the only Laos restaurants in NYC. Although its been a staple on the list for a while, I haven’t been for dinner since the pandemic. Our last meal was lunch a few years back. I get the sense that rising costs was a big factor. Running a restaurant in NYC especially in that part of the city is as tough as it ever been, and prices reflect. Speaking of pricy, Khe-Yo is replaced by the excellent Raoul’s on the list.

Categories: New York City | Leave a comment

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