Eating With Ziggy

Is Napa Valley America’s Biggest Tourist Trap?

Posted on September 26, 2024 by Ziggy

After visiting Napa for the first time in 30 years, I can confidently say… Yes, and No. I can also confidently say, this is the first and last post about Napa on EWZ. This is a big planet, with hopefully more planets to come (I’m really enjoying For All Mankind on Apple). While I have a laundry list of places I want to revisit, Napa Valley is not one of them.

Lovely Mrs Z and I were in our 20’s when we first visited Napa, followed by Las Vegas which we visited often back in the day for some reason. I vividly remember touring the world famous Beringer (as per their website), buying a case of their world famous something (maybe Zinfandel). We hauled the case with us to Vegas, then on a plane, and back home to NYC, only to discover the same wine cheaper in Costco. Thats my only memory (and lesson) from that visit.

Napa was a logical choice this time as part of a long Portland-LA road trip. It seemed like a refreshing change of pace after exploring the Oregon coast. Wine, scenery, that farm to table stuff I kept hearing about. All the things I love about a destination. Hence, the problem.

This is the kind of destination we normally seek. Like the Langhe in Piedmont, Tuscany, Croatia’s Istria, Getaria and Ronda in Spain, just to name a few. Even some of the areas in Virginia near Shenandoah are shockingly striking considering its, well, Virginia. After all these destinations, Napa overall was a letdown, and quite the sticker shock. The Disneyland vibes started to kick in before we even got there.

Considering the top attraction in the valley is a 13th century style structure that resembles and sounds like an Italian castle except it costs $70, is pretty much all you need to know. But in case you need more, there’s also a Gondola ride, a wine train, and a myriad of Instagramble wineries that range from $50 to $200 to visit. With everyone trying to outdo each other, it’s essentially the worlds largest outdoor beauty contest.

While researching Napa you get a sense that paying less than $50 for a tasting is not worth the time, and anything over $50 is not worth the money. I eventually settled on Quixote Winery, Caymus Vineyards, and Francis Ford Coppola Winery. All unique, and attractive in their own way, with Caymus coming out as the group’s favorite experience, albeit at a cost ($50) for a tasting. I recently booked a tasting in Piedmont that includes 5 world class wines including Barolo, accompanies by cured meats and cheese and a property tour for $18 pp. A similar experience in Napa is around $150.

But I would be fine with a few overpriced but picturesque wineries if I could find something else to do and see, and eat some of that famous Farm to Table food I heard about all my life. But turned out every restaurant we visited is geared toward tourists, and the food reflected that. Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch has farm in its name, but the room and food felt more like a glorified Applebee’s. Angele a French Bistro served us the worst Escargot I ever had, among other duds. These are some of the most popular places in the Valley, packed to the brim every night.

But there were a few highlights including in the food department. Gott’s Roadside is the kind of burger chain every state should have. Not only quality gourmet burgers, but really crafty tacos and even salads. Why are they only in the Napa area? Another highlight was hot air ballooning with Sonoma Ballooning. A fantastic experience from start to finish, aided by a hilarious pilot. We still managed to have fun, but the question of the title stands.

Tia Pol – Just Basque a Move

Posted on September 23, 2024 by Ziggy

After recently exploring the south of Spain, and trying a few more “Tapas” joints in the city, I still think Tia Pol is the closest we have to an authentic Tapas bar in NYC. The food at places like Salinas and Txikito might be more refined, but their environment, accessibility and prices makes them far removed from Spain, no matter how authentic their menu looks. The worst experience you can have in Andalucia or elsewhere in Spain is at a place that looks and feels like NYC. Ok, maybe not the worst but you get my point.

Tia Pol has that old fashioned rustic feel, easy to reserve or pop in at just about any time. A menu full of Tapas classics with correct prices, and a fantastic drink menu to boot. In fact I much preferred my Vermouth from Jerez I had last night at Tia Pol than the Vermouth I had at the more polished Txikito. Tia Pol has that look and feel.

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Categories: Chelsea, New York City | Leave a comment

Top 15 Things We Ate in Andalucia

Posted on September 18, 2024 by Ziggy

Shrimp a la Plancha at Blanca Paloma (Seville) – There are plenty of reasons to visit the colorful Triana neighborhood in Sevilla. Ceramics, the market, the scene on Calle San Jacinto, and the many notable restaurants. Speaking of the Calle, you may even see locals munching on the same beautiful Shrimp I recommend trying at the awesome Blanca Paloma.

Cheese and cured meats at Bar Casa Morales (Seville) – A time warp, entertaining locals and now tourists since 1850, and still owned by the same family. Keeping it mostly simple with classics like the fine Tortilla, and Galician Octopus. But after sampling cold cuts all over the city up to that point, this high grade selection was particularly eyepopping.

Egg with mushrooms at Amara (Seville) – I couldnt get enough of the egg dishes in Andalucia. Mostly the egg and potato variety. Not surprisingly, a Basque inspired 65 degrees egg with mushrooms, and truffles, part of a €48 tasting menu won the egg crown. Chef/Owner Javier Fabo grew up in the Amara neighborhood in San Sebastián, and trained at French Laundry, Gordon Ramsey, and other notables. So doh!

Carillera at Bodeguita Romero (Seville) – You have two options here. Come when this local legend opens, or face the consequences of waiting an hour or more. Either way, dont make the mistake we almost did and leave. People come for the Pringa (Pork Sandwich), but everything else was just as good if not better. I could have very easily put the Salmorejo (like a tomato soup) or the expertly cooked whole grilled squid here. But the ultra tender Carillera (pork cheek) stood out.

Puntillitas at Eslava (Seville) – This is another one of those local legends. You will witness a crowd in and out at all times. People go after some of the award winner like the egg, the must try “Cigar” and honey ribs. But for us it was the succulent, if not addictive Puntillitas (fried baby squid) that stole the show.

Cheesecake at Castizo tapas bar (Seville) – Easy rule of thumb in the region. If you see Torrijas (like French Toast) or cheesecake on the menu, pounce. Even if you are from NYC. We’ve had a number of wonderful cheesecakes all over the region, but this creamy goodness at Castizo won the cake. See what I did there?

Octopus with fried pig ears at Garum 2.1 (Cordoba) – After a shaky start in Cordoba we got quite the treat at the exceptional Garum 2.1, partly thanks to a rare breed waiter. But the food did much of the talking, or singing really in the case of the Octopus with fried pig ears over the creamiest potato purée this side of Lyon. Baby angels singing to be exact.

Cogollos Ajillo at Bar los Romerillos (Cordoba) – Researching food in travel is almost pointless. Just follow the menus. You may discover all sorts of surprises that never came up in your research. Case in point, Cogollos Ajillo, lettuce topped with fried garlic or garlic sauce. At this very local diner-like joint on the other side of the Roman bridge, its one of the specialties.

Chicken Croquetitas at MangasVerdes (Jaen) – Tiny Jaen has no shortage of good food, even Michelin stars. I was worried when the place was empty at 1:30pm. But then I remembered we are in Spain. Standing room only by 2:30. Fantastic, Asian inspired playful fair, especially the explosive Chicken Croquetitas that arrived like a dozen eggs with a super complimentary curry sauce.

Squid ink rice with Octopus at El Trillo (Granada) – The Alhambra is always the center of attention in Granada, and you cant legally leave without a meal at a “Carmen” house overlooking her majesty. At El Trillo, you have that option on the terrace, along with a cozy garden. And the food is not too shabby, especially the seafood. I’m a sucker for good squid ink dishes and this one with grade A ingredients was as good as they get.

Jamon at Oliver (Granada) – While not a flawless meal, this Bourdain approved legend produced plenty of hits. Refreshing tomato with burrata and pesto, grilled squid were some of the winners. But the quality best of the trip Jamon was a revelation. Seemingly popular with locals and tourists, so reservations strongly recommended.

Tapas at Bodegas Ramos-Paul (Ronda) – Tiny Ronda has three mentions here, more than any large city except Seville. This is not a restaurant but a winery just north of town. A stunning property, surrounded by scenery rivaled by Tuscany and very few others. Affordable, delicious robust reds because this is not Rioja fame. Munching on well selected cheese and cured meats in that setting is magical. Thats why you stay in Ronda for longer than one night.

Chickpeas with Chorizo at El Lechuguita (Ronda) – People should come to Ronda just to experience this place. Try arriving before opening to get a spot on line, and head straight to the bar as soon they open. Not only the decor hasnt changed much during the last 50 years, but prices as well. An extensive menu with most tapas costing €1.2!! And quality stuff like the Shrimp skewers, Pate, eggs, and the best of show, spiced to perfection Chickpeas with Chorizo. The best value we’ve encountered in all our travels.

Chicken with Fideos at Casa Mateos (Ronda) – Everything we ate in Ronda followed by “one of the best of the trip” talk, and Casa Mateos was possibly the best meal. A flawless meal that got better with each course. The outrageous Chicken with Fideos was a highlight. Which is saying a lot considering the other main was perfectly cooked beef.

Mollete de Atún at La Cosmopolita (Malaga) – Calling this a sandwich feels very wrong. Mollete translates to muffin (like English Muffin I suppose), but its actually IGP protected buns from Antequera, a town nearby. The Mollete de Atún at Dani Carnero’s La Cosmopolita is a well crafted raw tuna sandwich. Poke sandwich if you will, except that every ingredient is top notch and the whole combination is fantastic.

Categories: Spain | Tags: Andalucia, Best Dishes in Andalucia, Best Things we ate in Andalucia | Leave a comment

Olle – Not Just Another Korean

Posted on September 11, 2024 by Ziggy

In LA a few weeks ago, a Korean called Hungry Crowd near our hotel in Burbank was just what the doctor ordered after a long drive from Napa. While munching on their Bibimbap I realized that it’s not only the first Bibimbap I’ve had in ages, but I havent even seen it on a menu in years. My last one may have been at Danji in Hell’s Kitchen (still temporarily closed), about a decade ago. I regretted telling this to the waiter, who was very puzzled by the news.

In NYC pioneers like David Chang, Jungsik Yim, and Junghyun Park (Atomix, Atoboy) converted Korean cuisine into something we cant define. ‘New Korean’ if you will as coined by Jungsik. Tremendous competition pushes newbies to reinvent and differentiate. We now have multiple Cajun/Korean and the haute joints keep multiplying and having babies. Just like you will rarely see new Italian showcasing Cacio e Pepe or Carbonara, you rarely see new Korean offering Bibimbap these days.

Outside of the big city, even in the burbs here, Korean simply means BBQ. In the expending Koreatown in Manhattan, there’s no shortage of BBQ, but new places like Olle on 30th, keep pushing the envelope. Olle is another Jeju inspired (Jeju Noodle Bar) establishment, with somewhat of a concept. Stylish Korean comfort food centered around one dish, the Galbi Jjim.

As with many concept places all over the city, ordering at Olle requires a bit of homework. But no worries. Good ole’ uncle Ziggy is here to help with the process, although I probably understand about 85% of it. All you need to do is order the Galbi Jjim, select the two sides for $10 more, and anything else from the menu. With that you get an excellent Banchan set of around 8 that includes Kimchi, Daikan, Onions, Scallion Pancakes, marinated egg, wood-ear mushrooms, and rice. There was not one dish that I didnt want to more.

But the star is the Galbi Jjim itself. Braised short ribs with oyster mushrooms and other goodies that continues to cook table side. Good luck finding short ribs with greater depth and consistency. The only thing that was missing was more of the excellent mushrooms, but this dish is billed for two people, not four. The price is a whopping $70 (there’s also a small option for $60), but once you add the other parts, its not a bad value. Especially if you successfully share for four.

Out of the two sides, I was surprised at how much I liked one over the other. Bibim Naengmyeon, cold noodles with spicy sauce wasnt quite up to par with my taste. People rave about it all over social media, but I found the sauce too tangy for the delicate noodles and quickly got bored with it. The fried rice dish on the other hand produced at the end of the meal with the leftover Galbi Jjim was stellar. Although it does come with some confusion among the staff on how long we were supposed to cook it in order to have a decent amount of Socarrat. When its done on your table, you are like a kid driving to the Luna park with your parents. Are we there yet?

We also tried the Skate with Soy-Garlic sauce which was another winner. Not exactly new flavors but the combination is unique and works beautifully. Pork bone soup with potatoes, perilla leaves & seeds features a phenomenal tasting broth, but even though it came as advertised, picking the meat from the bones was a frustrating exercise. There were moments where we felt like hamsters being experimented on. Pretty sure the staff were taking notes.

They handed us the bill before I even attempted to find out if there’s dessert. I guess the answer is no. Out of the four, Mrs Z was the only one who didnt care much for the experience, but I suspect it was because she wasnt drinking. That decision meant only $50 pp final bill. All considering, refreshing in this part of the city. Olle is a Go!

Olle
11 E 30th St (5th/Madison)
Recommended Dishes: Galbi Jjim, Fried Rice, Skate, Pork bone soup

Categories: Gramercy, Flatiron, New York City | Tags: food, NYC restaurants, Olle, Olle NYC | Leave a comment

Oregon/California Coast Highlights

Posted on September 7, 2024 by Ziggy

This is the coast portion of a recent Portland-Napa-LA road trip. While we’ve done the SF-LA coast multiple times, the northern parts was a first for us. Good seafood, seals, scenic drives, eyepopping sea stacks, and plenty of redwoods. Here are some of the highlights (food included).

Cannon Beach – Our first stop. Pleasant town to walk around with shops and galleries galore. Good Fish and Chips at Ecola Seafood Restaurant. Nice views from Ecola Point Viewpoint in Ecola State Park. The jaw-dropping Haystack Rock is the perfect welcome to Oregon coast.

Tillamook Creamery – Not exactly a secret, and not exactly the best ice cream I ever had, but this is such a neat place. A factory allowing you to see much of the process cost free. A general store where you can stack up on some gourmet(ish) snacks for the drive. And an artisanal ice cream shop that you can enjoy outside or in. A must stop IMO.

Cape Kiwanda Sand Dune – For city slickers like us, walking to the top of the dune and running down like children was quite the experience.

Clearwater Restaurant (Newport) – Probably our best meal on the coast. Surprisingly tasty Asian inspired dishes like Orange Cauliflower and crab and garlic noodles. A dock full of seals in the back is reason enough to come. It was like watching an episode of Planet Earth

Darlingtonia State Natural Site – A small area where you can see carnivorous cobra lilies. This is one of those perfect pit stops on a drive like that. A short walk to see something so unique and different than anything else on the coast. And its free.

Note, I’m listing highlights only, not necessarily the biggest and most popular attractions like Sea Lion Caves, Heceta Head Lighthouse, and others that werent as memorable.

Nosh Eatery (Florence) – Pleasant surprise considering I was aiming for Mari’s Kitchen next door which was closed. Very solid juicy ribs and salmon bowl. I was intrigued by Mari’s Kitchen Romanian leaning menu, but Nosh did the job.

Shore Acres State Park – I almost wrote the gardens at Shore Acres but the entire park is truly stunning. Its a little out of the way but very much worth it. To see the gardens, head to the gift shop.

Endicott Gardens Bed & Breakfast – If I could only give one tip. We’ve come to realize that we are hotel people, but I still like to mix in experiences such as this in between Holiday Inns. Its such a special and unique place. A super friendly couple that used to own a restaurant in Colorado manages this 4(?) room property. The garden alone worth the price of admission. And to top it all, an outstanding three course garden to table Breakfast. Fantastic value.

Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor – One of the more dramatic parts of the Oregon coast. Highlights are Arch Rock State Park, and “Natural Bridges”

SeaQuake Brewing (Crescent City) – Solid pizza and beer. For pizza snubs from NYC this was as good as I was hoping for a place like this. The rest of the menu is promising as well

Trees of Mystery – A Redwoods theme park with a giant Paul Bunyan at the entrance. For Fargo fans, this is your chance!

Simpson-Reed Trailhead (Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park) – The perfect hike (about a mile) after a longish drive, and a good introduction to the Redwoods.

Avenue of the Giants – How often do you get to drive on a 30 mile road surrounded by Redwoods. It runs parallel to the 101 with multiple exit points when you have enough Forest Bathing

Categories: California, Portland, Oregon | Tags: California Coast, Endicott Gardens Bed & Breakfast, Oregon Coast, Travel, travel+photography | Leave a comment

Hainan Chicken House – Score One More for SP

Posted on September 2, 2024 by Ziggy

Reason #157 to visit Sunset Park in Brooklyn, arguably one of the top five food neighborhoods in the entire city. Also happens to be another reason why you dont see me write about Queens much. I’ve written more about Spain, Portugal, even Quebec City than the foodie haven borough of Queens. Location, traffic makes it easier for me to visit Philly than Queens. And the many gems of Sunset Park makes that decision easier. Even when we finally commit to head over to Queens like yesterday, we somehow end up in Sunset Park.

Those that took my Brooklyn food tour (RIP) remember this part of Brooklyn well. Whether its the best egg tart in the city where they know me by the last 4 digits of my number, like a prisoner. The scene and flavors of the food court of Fei Long Market. Or Bamboo Garden, possibly the most authentic and popular Dim Sum Palace in NYC, standing in place of the disco from Saturday Night Fever.

During the SNV days, this Chinatown didnt exist. Today its the fasters growing and largest Chinatown in the city, probably north America. In the 80’s, Cantonese speakers from overcrowded and gentrified Manhattan Chinatown started moving to Brooklyn, followed by immigrants from Fujian. Rumors were circulating that 8th ave in Brooklyn is the real “road to wealth”. 8 of course is a lucky number in Chinese culture.

A thriving Chinatown also means a healthy Malaysian food scene, and all three NYC Chinatowns have that. Hainan Chicken House opened by Malaysian New Yorkers in 2023, and fairly quick fame followed. The team didnt realize that a certain neighborhood regular visiting the place was actually Pete Wells. Two NYT stars, and a spot on the NYT top 100 later, and I’m munching on the same spicy noodles for the third time, surrounded by white dudes.

After nibbling on the same dish in previous visits, I finally came back with friends for a proper meal. That said dish, Char Kway Teow is a noodle masterpiece. A gorgeous concoction of egg noodles, shrimp, clams, squid, bean sprouts and more, stir-fried to perfection. Its the Malyasian answer to the Thai Pad Kee Mao (Drunken Noodles).

The specialty of the house, Hainan Chicken Rice is served hawker street food style wrapped in paper. We opted for the roasted chicken. While not my favorite dish here, every visitor should try this at least once. Worst case scenario, you’ll suffer along with a well seasoned rice, and a Ménage à trois of three distinct sauces.

The table issued no complaints about the curry puffs, or chicken Satay skewers served with a sublime spicy peanut sauce. But our favorite discovery this time was the Char Siu, a marvelous, well executed roasted pork belly. You’ll be hard pressed to find better pork belly texture/flavor combination. Just the proper thickness and none of that softness you get sometimes in Thai places. Go!

Hainan Chicken House
4807 8th Ave (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Char Kway Teow, Pork Belly, Curry Puffs, Chicken Satay

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: food, Hainan Chicken House, Hainan Chicken House Sunset Park, NYC restaurants | 2 Comments

Caminito del Rey – The Safest Scariest Hike in the World

Posted on August 30, 2024 by Ziggy

If you are even remotely into hiking, add this to the bucket list. 7.7 km, half of which on an elevated narrow boardwalk secured to the side of a cliff on top of a spectacular gorge. Once nicknamed the most dangerous hike in the world, its not nearly as scary today. After a record 5 people killed in 2000, officials finally decided to do something and took 15 years to build a new path. Imagine graduating with a civil engineering degree and getting hit with this assignment.

Considering the commercial aspect of this attraction and the way its organized, the hike as expected felt completely safe. The spectacular vistas on every turn help forget that a few wooden boards are between you and stuff on the rocks (sorry). The only time you feel like you had enough is during the last 30 minutes. A very boring walk to the bus that didnt seem to end.

Although outside of most tourist radar in Andalucia, you need to reserve this months in advance. Most likely, like us, you’ll reserve a timed walk with a guide (extra) as the DIY tickets are few and sell out quickly. At some point during the tour you may opt out and walk at your own pace. The guide will fill you in with the history and local flora and fauna. At some point our guide pointed to a bird flying above us and asked us what it was, and all I could think was partridge, after the amazing dinner the night before. Partridge was incorrect she said.

The one thing most blogs dont tell you is that it takes 45-60 minutes to get from the parking lot to the starting point, which involves a shuttle and a hike in itself. Thats why the small print will suggest to arrive an hour early. But I dont think they turn anyone away if a little late, due to the difficulties involved to get there. Although the hike is only two hours or so, allow at least half a day for this.

Unless you have an incredible amount of energy, do Caminito del Rey in the morning. 10:30 was ideal for us but I would go even earlier. Allow an hour to get there from Ronda, Malaga or elsewhere. Its a good stop when moving from one base to another. There is some food huts at the end, but I would avoid at least the milkshakes since everyone who had them in our group got sick. Go!

Categories: Spain | Tags: Andalucia, Caminito del Rey, Hiking, Travel, travel+photography | Leave a comment

Portland Update

Posted on August 27, 2024 by Ziggy

Portland – The Food Report

Categories: Portland, Oregon | Tags: Matt's BBQ, Phuket Cafe, Scotch Lodge, Sorbu Portland | Leave a comment

Pig & Khao – Dont Overlook Brunch

Posted on August 16, 2024 by Ziggy

Ah, brunch, my least favorite meal of the day. Its neither here or there, it requires drinking earlier than I’m used to (yes I have rules), and more than half of the days it doesnt even exist. On average I do brunch once every two months or so while for many Manhattanites and Brooklynites its a weekly routine. But as the saying goes, I don’t always do brunch, but when I do, I prefer something interesting like Breakfast by Salt’s Cure, any of these five, and now Pig & Khao.

Pig and Khao is one of those places where I avoided brunch for too long because the dinner menu is just so darn good. But upon further inspection, the current brunch menu includes P&K greatest hits like the best in NYC Sizzling Sisig, and Khao Soi. Not to mention the newest of the classics, the addictive Chili Pan Mee, one of the most satisfying bowl of noodles in NYC today.

Leah Cohen who spent years in the Philippines as a kid, and as an adult can cook Southeast Asian food with the best of them. She owes much of her success to her dad who she lost during the early stages of the pandemic. Being a contestant on Top Chef season 5 helped kick her career that includes a book and numerous Food Network appearances. She opened Pig & Khao in 2012, and Piggyback right before the pandemic.

While I cant make reservations at places like Laser Wolf, I Sodi, Raoul’s, and many more, its a small mystery how easy it is to reserve Pig & Khao. Even though its packed every time I go there. You get a sense that the vast majority of patrons are locals, but there’s an easy way to confirm this. 1400 Google reviews vs 175 Trip Advisor (mainly tourists). Compared to say Joe Allen (950, 1100).

As some of you know, Pig and Khao has been a staple on the Z-List from day one. Probably a top 3 in the entire city for me. But according to EWZ historians I havent written anything about it since December 2018. Not much has changed other than one particular dish elevating itself to the top of the ranking bypassing the awesome Sisig.

That dish is the mentioned Chili Pan Mee. A seemingly simple dry Ramen noodles with a sick pork ‘ragu’. Its incredibly well balanced with just enough pleasant heat. The slow poached egg probably adds more to the dish than the occasional crispy anchovy, but as a whole its pretty perfect. A must among musts.

Another must for brunch is the… wait for it… French Toast. You may be thinking, why would you ever order French Toast at a place like this. The answer is, think of it as dessert. Southeast Asian sweets are much less inspiring than the savory items IMO. We often leave places without trying any or disappointed that the sticky rice with coconut and mango isnt on the same level as Pure Thai Cookhouse. But leave it to the P&K crew to come up with a superb sweet French Toast with caramelized bananas and super addictive salted caramel sauce.

While not an absolute must like the others the Sissling Corned Beef Hash was better than I thought it would be. Once you mix the egg with everything else you get a killer peppery combination. And a good value at $18. With the dishes ranging from $15-20 the whole menu felt like fantastic value in today’s NYC. Stop laughing, Queens residents.

68 Clinton St

Categories: Lower East Side, New York City | Tags: food, Leah Cohen, NYC restaurants, Pig and Khao, Pig and Khao NYC | 2 Comments

This is Jaén (and MangasVerdes)

Posted on August 13, 2024 by Ziggy

Sometimes it starts with a photo. I remember late in the planning stages, seeing a photo of the Jaén cathedral from the top of town and before you know it, I’m researching olive oil producers, area castles, and the exact location of that shot. I’ll save you the headache: Mirador “El Balcón del Santo Reino” on Google Maps.

The Mirador and Castillo de Santa Catalina, the 8th century castle that King Ferdinand III of Castile captured in 1246 are reasons enough to make Jaén a worthy stop between Cordoba and Granada. According to legend, after defeating the Nasrid dynasty stronghold, Ferdinand climbed to the castle and drove his sword to the ground. Probably not a good idea, but I’m sure he had more swords. Roughly 250 meters from the castle, that spot is now marked with a cross, overlooking Jaén and the rest of the countryside.

In the few hours of visiting Jaén we saw both a thriving town (before lunch), and a sleepy one (after lunch). The best example of that was right in front of the cathedral. We are well outside the tourist route. Another surprise was a series of murals in the southwest edge of the town. A lot of cats (including real ones) and stairs.

But the largest bonus was discovering a thriving food scene. Jaén, with just about 100,000 population boasts four Michelin star establishments, including the famed Baga. A mini San Sebastian if you will. Being in the middle of perhaps the most important olive oil region in the country may have something to do with it.

I dont recall exactly why I chose MangasVerdes over Baga. Perhaps I wanted something simpler, or Baga’s latest reviews didnt do it for me. I question my decisions more than anyone else. And when we showed up at an empty restaurant at 1:30pm, our reservation time, I questioned some more. I was confused why they were turning people away. But by 2:30 the place was packed to the brim with locals.

A young staff without much English did a masterful job managing the house. I may never understand how they do it with half the staff of American restaurants of the same size. The food was traditional with a fun Asian twist that actually works. More often than not, it doesnt. A top 5 of the trip meal, maybe even top 3. Considering the doozies we had, its saying something.

Expertly prepared Duck confit spring rolls that came Ssam style. Silky smooth, flavor packed Foie Gras. Phenomenal, explosive Chicken Croquetitas that came like a dozen eggs with curry sauce. Probably my favorite dish. Octopus on a bed of potato cream, as good as it was prob my least favorite. More excellence from the Oxtail ravioli. Panna Cotta and choc cake were the exclamation point.