Zion got the world famous hikes, Arches got arches, and Bryce got the Hoodoos. But that dosnt really describe Bryce very well. Bryce looks like ruins of a god made mammoth sand castle. Its an absolute stunner at any given time of the day. It will make you reach for the camera/phone even though you already took the same picture 10 times. This has to be one of the most unique National Parks in the world.
A nice intro to Bryce is the Red Canyon nearby. A morning hike combining Navajo Loop and Queens Garden via Wall Street was perfect for people pretending to be young and fit. Plenty of parking at the Lodge while everyone parks or looking for parking at Sunrise and Sunset points. In the afternoon we did the various points like Inspiration, and Natural Bridge. And just when you thought you’ve seen everything you need to see, comes Bryce Point, the mother of all viewpoints, maybe in the entire country.
One thing that struck was how cheap everything was at Bryce Canyon City. When was the last time you saw 60 cent water bottles?!? And Affogatos with giant scoops for $5. All at Old Bryce Town Ice Cream & Candy Shop. Overall the food wasnt particularly great in the Bryce area and Panguitch where we stayed as much as I tried to find decent eats.
The one good eats we found was breakfast at The Panguitch House Bed and Breakfast where we stayed for two nights. Panguitch the town was… interesting. For city slickers like us it was like a different country. But the B&B was a nice change of pace from the chains hotels.
The coolest thing we’ve done in the Bryce area was seeing the stars and learning about them with Dark Ranger Telescope Tours. Fun till you freeze close to midnight and need to escape like Cinderella. Careful when driving at night. We had a close call with a huge something. No one could tell what that was. My money was on Big Foot.
Finally made it to Ci Siamo, another ambitious gamble by Danny Meyer. The name means something along the lines of “Here we are” which is fitting because even with the address at hand, you have to spend a few minutes looking for it. Even my GPS went, “Ahhm, I’ll just drop you off in the vicinity. Good luck”. It is inside one of our newest swanky developments called Manhattan West, right opposite to Hudson Yards. Manhattan West is the official declaration that our real estate developments ran out of names.
While there’s no shortage of all kinds of Italian in the city, its lacking in the vicinity of CI Siamo. Just like Thai in Hell’s Kitchen, this part of Chelsea has a strange concentration of some of our best Spanish… Mercado Little Spain, Tía Pol, Txikito, Salinas, just to name a few. Perhaps the Basque Cheesecake on the menu at Ci Siamo is a community peace offering.
Ci Siamo is Italian for grown ups. For a refreshing change, we were in the middle of the pack age wise this time, as opposed to looking like chaperons. And we are only in our late 40’s (55 to be exact). You know you are in a mature place where they replace each plate, fork and knife after each course, and you dont feel bad about it. The service is efficient but not stuffy.
The three main courses are summarized pretty well by the title. This post is not so much to deter but help you plan accordingly as I do still recommend Ci Siamo. Starting with the good, the house signature Cast Iron Focaccia is light and delicious but one of the most expensive breads I’ve seen ($17). It comes with a velvety tomato sauce for dipping. Pair it with the top notch Prosciutto, most likely of the San Daniele variety.
Moving on to the great. The pastas at Ci Siamo rank with some of the best of them. The boozy, wide ribbon Stracci with slow cooked Rabbit is superb. The rest even better. The Roman classic Pasta alla Gricia isnt as widely available in NYC as its sisters Carbonara and Cacio e pepe, but it should be. Here you have a perfect blend of Rigatoni with Guanciale, cheese and Black Pepper, with each ingredient slow dancing in your mouth. But the show stopper is undoubtedly the Cavatelli Allo Scoglio, bean like Cavateili with crab and chili. For an Italian, they are not shy with the peppery stuff. But should be more shy with the salt…
Salt is usually used liberally with pastas in Italian cooking, but at Ci Siamo it was more prevalent with the Secondis. The first few bites of the Pork Milanese, and the braised mushrooms that came with the well cooked Rib eye were fine, but then the salt took over. A one time thing? According to Google reviews, “Salty” is mentioned over 30 times. I guess Ci Siamo management disagrees.
Back to the good, dont sleep on the vegetables and beans portion of the menu. The carrots are outstanding. Amazing how some dill brightens a dish. The braised beans we enjoyed with the mains is another winner. In a way this menu reminds me of Via Carota. The pricy salty mains put a small damper on the meal, but you can have a fine, full, and much cheaper meal without the mains.
If it didnt say it on the menu, I wouldnt know that the Cheesecake is Basque, as there was not much burnt flavor that I recall. Get it still, along with the dark chocolate based Torta Calabrese. And if you are not splurging on the wine, try the Daylight Savings drink – vodka, rabarbaro, blood orange, cocchi rosa. Like a Negroni/Paloma love child. After the meal, see the new foot on the High Line.
Ci Siamo 440 W 33rd St (Chelsea/Hudson Yards) Recommended Dishes: Focaccia, Prosciutto, Stracci with Rabbit, Rigatoni alla Gricia, Cavatelli Allo Scoglio, carrots, braised beans, cheesecake, Torta Calabrese
The singular and most important classic being the “Legendary Burger”. In fact, I’ll make it simple. If you dont like burgers, or not planning to order the burger, skip Nowon altogether. I’m Pretty sure the name stands for “Nowon to blame but yourself, if you dont order the burger”. That’s not to say Nowon has nothing decent to eat besides that. They do. I just cant come up with a solid argument to go there for the rest of the “classics” in one of the best food neighborhoods in the city.
But at the same time, its important to temper expectations. Much has been written about the burger including various “best of” publications, Reddit hype, and children books (“Goodnight Burger”) to reach the legendary status. But while its very well crafted, its still just a burger. And if you live here and had your share of decent burgers, it wont be earth shattering. So many reviewers expect a life altering, pee a little, moment only to be disappointed.
But you will be hard pressed to find a better burger that doesnt involve fancy meat. Its a simple, yet why almost no one does it, sum of all parts case. A perfectly cooked double patty, Kimchi sauce, American cheese, pickles, and perhaps most importantly, a soft Sesame bun hat holds everything together and not too heavy. Its Hava Nagila in your mouth. The wedding version.
Another must classic is the Chopped Cheese Rice Cakes. Not quite as good as Momofuku, the unofficial Rice Cake pioneer in NYC, but very nicely done. The rice cakes feature plenty of crisp and the spiced beef ragu completes it. The Black Sesame Garlic Caesar Salad, while not totally distinguishable from regular Caesar, is still pretty solid, and pairs well with the rest of the dishes. We’ve had some nifty salads here in the past that are no longer on the menu.
The big first ever miss at Nowon was the awesome sounding Mushrooms with noodles. Didnt trust my judgment of saying no to any dish that lists bell peppers as an ingredient. A shockingly flat concoction especially next to the bold flavors of the rest of the dishes. I also didnt care for the too sweet Tater Tots with Honey Butter, but that could be just a personal preference as its one of the most popular dishes here.
The Black Sesame Creme Brulee is a sound finisher. Though the Rice Pudding sounds pretty good as well. They offer set menu options called Mixtapes which gets you half a burger. Dont be the douche that complains about it, as its very rational, and a full burger is almost a full meal in itself. Not sure how they manage odd numbers.
Another location is now in Bushwick. Go!
Nowon 507 E 6th (East Village) Recommended Dishes: Burger, Rice Cakes, Caesar Salad, Creme Brulee
When you visit a place when the chef/owner is on vacation in NYC its not necessarily a bad thing. In super competitive NYC it most likely means the well oiled machine is intact and the boss can take a breather. In Frena’s case it meant we visited at the right time. I gave it about a year after old EWZ darling Taboon closed due to a nasty fire and reincarnated three years later as Frena. Not being in the business, it’s a small mystery why restaurants take so long to recover after a fire (See Danji). Some never do.
I’ve been a fan of Taboon pretty much since I started this blog. One of the points I always stressed was that if you survive that long in that location, you are doing something right. Anything west of 9th Ave, the Hell’s Kitchen border for most tourists, should pique your interest. Efi Naon, the mega talented head chef at Taboon understood that he had something special there, and reopened the place along with a frequent Taboon patron.
Taboon 2.0 feels more like 1.2. A new version where much of the old menu items are still there, and the concept is pretty much the same. Elevated “Middle-terranean” with the Taboon oven in the center of things. even the name Frena has a similar meaning to the old name. Frena is the community oven in a Moroccan village (Naon is Moroccan Israeli), and also the name of the fluffy Moroccan pita. In my East Village tours I introduced guests to the Frena pita, which I can still smell.
This meal was not a whole lot different than my Taboon meals over the years, except that it was simply better. Just about every item felt like an improved version of the previous, along with some new Italian flair to boot. Its an ambitious menu that’s common in Middle Eastern. Leave it to Anon, who trained all over Europe including a three Michelin in France, to perfect it.
Just like Taboon, every meal at Frena starts with their terrific “Frena Bread”. A rarity for such quality bread, dusted with a bit of salt and za’atar, to be free these days. But if your group is more than two, chances are you’ll need another ($9), especially if you get the 5 dips deal. All dips were exceptional, especially the Cauliflower hummus.
For the middle course we opted for the said Italian flair. I mean how bad can braised oxtail Tortellini on top of Sabzi Persian herb stew be? Turned out to be one of the highlights of the night. Roasted eggplant with tomato and Stracciatella was like eggplant Parm on steroids. You wouldn’t be disappointed with those dishes at a Rezdora, or any of the Michelin Italian.
Its best to share some of the big plates here. Old signature Lamb kebabs cooked in Terra Cotta pots covered with bread as satisfying as ever. We absolutely demolished it. The butterflied Branzino lightly drizzled with sage chimichurri looked like a piece of art at the Louvre, and significantly more exciting than the old Branzino.
Just like in Taboon, you finish with the transformative Silan – Tahini ice cream, caramelized rice crispies, almonds, halva, date syrup. A marching band in your mouth. There are some dishes that changed the way I eat at home, and this is one of them (Mesa Grill’s eggs is another). Every other dessert will pale in comparison, but a good Knaffe rarely disappoints, and no exception here.
Is there anything that you can’t find in Brooklyn? Think of any cuisine or specialty and chances are you’ll find it somewhere in NYC’s most populated borough. A decent chance you may even find it on Smith St, one of Brooklyn’s most interesting food corners. It feels like I’m mentioning Smith St on a monthly basis these days. I dont live anywhere near, but I’m finding myself gravitating toward it more and more. I was there twice last weekend.
Panzerotti is the guilt free mini Calzone you didnt know you always wanted. Its an airy, half moon shape stuffed dough, the size of a large empanada. You need at least two for a full meal, but one can be enough for a light one or a decent snack for some. While it’s not exactly a steal at $8-10 a pop or more for more elaborate fillings, a full meal will cost you pretty much the same as Neapolitan pizza.
Panzerotti Bites is the creation of Vittoria Lattanzio and Pasquale De Ruvo who wanted to introduce New Yorkers to the flavors of Puglia, or Bari to be more specific. In my lone visit to Bari, I was too busy schmoozing with the Orecchiette nonnas to even notice any street food. Although in my two weeks in Puglia, I didnt get a sense that street food was as prevalent as in other regions. But the food overall was varied and spectacular.
This is the kind of item you want to include on a nice day of snacking in North Brooklyn. On one of the visits, I combined it with the excellent soup dumplings at Nan Xiang Express in the Downtown area, while on another, tacos from El Bronco food truck (that Suadero!) in Sunset Park. That’s not to say, you can’t have a nice complete meal, especially at the inviting backyard of Panzerotti Bites.
The mural in the backyard alone is worth spending a bit of time there, learning Italian and some things about Puglia. It was sketched by the owners, and created by a talented friend. A healthy variety of Italian sodas (Just like beer, best in the business) helps. Try the alcohol free Bellini. Once you finished, stay some more for a sweet Panzerotto.
You can have it fried or baked. After trying both, I still dont know my preference. They fry them in clean, quality oil, so its not greasy whatsoever. With the pockets coming in straight from the oven or fryer, its advised to wait a little before diving in. I dare you to wait 30 seconds. After trying the Salame, Mortadella, a special of sausage and peppers, my favorite is still the first Panzerotto I tried. Mozzarella, Porcini mushrooms with black truffle paste. Superb!
The welcoming couple is the icing on the cake. They will take the time to guide you, and talk about Puglia like people talk about their newborn. They also packaged the Panzerotti (10 pieces per). They can ship them, or you can just pick up the Classic, Salame packages from their freezer. Worth crossing a bridge or tunnel for this one. Go!
Ok, maybe a few hours a day. Some visitors are surprised to learn that in the city that never sleeps, many, if not most places close at 10pm. That’s close to the time when people in some countries like Spain just start their evening activities. In Andalucia, we noticed most places only open at 8:30. In NYC, 8:30 is approaching the end of peak time (6-9). And in rural America, you may not even find a place open after 8pm.
So why is it called, the city that never sleeps? I think its because we simply cant sleep. Noise, rats, weather, tariffs. There’s always something to worry about. When I have those silent moments while driving with Mrs Z, I can just tell that she’s thinking about worrying about something… “I think you need a new suit”, “We probably need a new door”, “How come Costco milk expires so late. Are we being poisoned”. In the city that never sleeps, we call the police when neighbors dont sleep, and we constantly talk about ways to make us sleep. Warm milk and honey is my latest nightly routine.
L’Express used to be open 24 hours, but now they close for a few hours at night to reset. Is there a better way to gauge demand than the amount of hours an establishment is open during the week, along with its lifespan. Not many places outside of Times Square can beat 30 year old L’Express and their hours. On a recent random Tuesday night the place was packed.
Just like L’Express in Montreal, our L’Express on Park Ave in Gramercy is as classic French bistro as it gets. L’Express is owned by Chef Driven Hospitality Group, but more importantly its at the hands of Chef Amitzur Mor who worked at Gramercy Tavern, Bouley, and Payard among other places. The mission is to make forgotten dishes still relevant. The Katz’s Deli of French food if you will.
A good example of a forgotten dish revived at L’Express is the Duck Cassoulet. A few bites of that sent me straight to… Staten Island. Many years ago, when Ziggy was young, sporty, and without sleeping issues, he would frequent a place near the Staten Island ferry that offered a beautiful rich Cassoulet. At that time Cassoulet used to be my favorite French dish. These days, even in Paris its not so easy to find. I did manage to find a good one in the 5th Arr.
The rest of the items didnt disappoint. You need to ask for bread to mop up all the awesomeness from the Escargot leftover. The Steak Frites featured a decent size strip that was cooked to perfection. Add a small charge to make it Au Poivre and you get a much better value than Raoul’s, and most places. I took the shot under much duress. The Short Rib Bourguignon with potato puree is exactly what you expect from a French Bistro. And the Creme Brulee, absolutely on point.
On the flip side, The P.E.I Moules-Frites were average, and the olive puree didn’t quite compliment the crispy goat cheese well. But I’m just nitpicking here. Overall, I was impressed by the quality from a seemingly simple corner bistro that’s as accessible as a diner. L’Express is aging like a fine Bordeaux. Go!
L’Express 249 Park Ave S (20th) Recommended Dishes: Duck Cassoulet, Escargot, Steak Frites, Short Rib Bourguignon, Creme Brulee
When you come across Taboonia off 6th ave just inside Nomad, it looks like just another random fast food joint, a pizzeria even. But its so much more than that. Not only it’s NYC’s second Druze restaurant (first fast casual), but it comes with a tragic underlying story. Raif Rashed, one of the owners was a survivor of the Nova Festival on Oct 7. While he lived in the US, he happened to be in Israel at the time, and agreed to help his brother operate a food stall called Taboonia at the festival. I will spare you the many tragic details except that they both survived.
Opening Taboonia, and introducing Americans to traditional Druze cooking is part of the healing process. When I used to run food tours, one of the stops on the Hell’s Kitchen tour was Gazala Place, our first Druze establishment. I enjoyed talking about the Druze, their believes and the famous Druze hospitality. The same hospitality we experienced in 2012 in Usfiya where Rashed is from. Gazala came from Daliyat El-Carmel, the sister Druze village right next to Usfiya, just outside of Haifa. The tray below is how we got treated at the Druze house.
Our Druze Plate in Usfiya
Taboonia has some things in common, but very different than Gazala which eventually opened a place at the Upper West Side, and closed the original in Hell’s Kitchen during the pandemic. I have vivid memories of walking on 9th ave, seeing Gazala through the window cook that paper thin bread on a Saj oven. I miss her Hummus the most, and that bread was perfect for that.
Taboonia is a lot more low key, but same big heart. You are immediately greeted with some of the best spiced Chai you’ll ever have. I just asked him for the “best of” and the result was glorious. Manakish, essentially Druze pizza with Za’atar, similar to what we had in Usfiya. “Pita Labneh” featuring that thin flat Druze Saj bread stuffed with Tabule, egg, Labneh, and Harissa finished on the Saj oven. I recommend cutting by two instead of three like we did. Outstanding! Even the Potato Bourekas was fresh and excellent.
It’s one of those places where it may not even occur to you that its all vegetarian. All freshly made and solid ingredients throughout. Even the olives were delicious to this olives hater. The location is fine, depending on who you ask. Its fairly central, but the immediate area is mainly of the wholesale variety, though the area is changing. Go!
I’m being very careful with my “Bests” as you can see, and even more careful with the “Absolute Bests”. Anyone remembers the Absolute Best lists from Grub Street? Fun to look at, but very very wrong. It’s NYC. Unless you’ve been to even half of the hundreds of bagel places, you cant declare a best, not alone, absolute best. Just swing by the aptly named BAGELS R US in Staten Island to see the snaking lines on the weekends. You will never see it on any list because influencers and publishers dont travel to these corners of the city.
But I’m fairly confident you wont find better Mexican in Manhattan’s Chinatown, or any of our roughly 5 Chinatowns for that matter. First, its an exceptional, well deserved, one star Michelin. Second, its the only Mexican in Chinatown. When you see it on Allen street, you do a double take at your Google Maps, and then look for the business sign. Its right near Manhattan Bridge, and contrary to some claiming part of it is in Lower East Side, it’s very much inside Chinatown. The only time I’m in this corner of the city when I’m not looking for Chinese food is when I go to the excellent Michaeli Bakery.
Corima is an ambitious project, opened about a year ago by Fidel Caballero and his wife. It took less than a year to receive a Michelin Star, which is not so easy, especially for a place that’s not Japanese or French. Fidel Caballero is a Contra alum but more importantly a student of the legend three Michelin Martín Berasategui in Basque Country. Corima I believe is his first baby. Always interesting to see mega experienced chefs finally put their signatures somewhere.
Our meal in Corima was almost flawless. The only challenging aspect was deciding whether to go with the ever changing tasting menu or a la carte. After much deliberation, I opted for the latter. The two options are very different, as there’s usually only one dish in both, most likely the terrific bread. Without being overly familiar with Caballero, an ever changing tasting menu feels more of a gamble, and its somehow reflected in reviews. While some tried and true hits are only available a ala carte. But then you have people like Ryan Sutton swearing by the tasting menu
A rundown of the dishes, beginning with the question many have been asking for the past year.
Is the infamous $9 Tortilla worth it? YES!!.. and no!! Its a solid, thin sourdough flatbread, like Lavash or the Druze bread if you had it at Gazala’s on my Hell’s Kitchen tours. But since its Mexican it’s “Tortilla”. Probably made with some sort of fat. Good enough to eat on its own, but even better with the accompanied butter where they add roasted onions, mushrooms and chili to it. Not worth $9 but appropriately priced bread course for an ambitious one star Michelin where you spend roughly $120-150 pp. Supply and demand no brainer for the lone single digit item on top of the menu.
Beef Cecina Tlayuda – Superb cured beef. Like a moist beef carpaccio. More of a sum of all parts situation with the crunchy tortilla, Edamame Guac, and a sprinkle of Chapulines (Grasshoppers) so you dont forget where you are. Decent size for a small dish.
Tetela (top) – Replacing the fried Quesadilla on the menu is this fried masa based triangle with flavors reminiscent of a Pupusa. It’s stuffed with Maitake, Quesillo (Oaxacan cheese) and winter greens, and topped with thin truffle puree that looks like too much but once you have it, not enough. The only flaw was that the greens were not evenly spread out. Get this!
Monkfish – As good as the smaller plates were, the bigger were even better. Perfectly cooked firm monkfish, topped with paper thin potatoes, and a foamy seafood bisque. Just wished the fish was a little warmer.
Duck Enmoladas – More Excellence. Like duck enchilada topped with Black Garlic Mole and Cotija cheese foam. All kinds of beautiful flavors and textures with the beautiful duck reigning supreme. A spoonful of pure bliss.
Desserts didnt quite continue the momentum. Took a major step back in fact. When you feel nothing can go wrong and you order two instead of the usual one. Chocoflan with truffles with real truffles, not chocolate truffles was the main offender. Truffles dont belong in desserts, full stop. Give me one of those Mexican flans with caramel any day. The Funnel cake with roasted pears and pistachio was more like it, but considering the place, still quite basic.
The drinks were fine. Out of the 4, one clear winner, the Tequilla based Sinaloa Sling that she had. The rest not super balanced but fine. Still, this was a very enjoyable meal, helped in part by Ivan, one of those super waiters you just want to talk to and know better. The entire staff was in fact great. According to the wife who had a better look at the action, half of the staff featured “Porn Mustaches”. After 32 years I’m still learning new things about her.
Corima 3 Allen St (Chinatown) Recommended Dishes: Tortilla, Beef Cecina Tlayuda, Tetela, Monkfish, Duck Enmoladas
All good things come to an end. Eventually! My favorite, precious, perfectly fit sneakers have holes in the front approaching toe size. I made a deal not to wear them while I’m with her, or in close proximity to other humans. I only wear them on my daily walks, but their end is near. Honestly, considering she randomly throws away anything remotely old, I’m surprised I still have them. Heck, I’m surprised I’m still around.
Hibernia fits my taste like those sneakers. Except that it didnt have any holes in it at all. In fact it always felt fresh, and even trendy, after 38 years. One of my favorite restaurants in the world had the total package. Outstanding, creative cuisine in a mythical setting. They perfected the South East Asian / French mashup before it even became a thing in Paris.
Last month, owners Mary Pat and Raoul announced they will finally retire and close the restaurant in May after 38 years. While disappointing, it’s totally understandable. This is not the kind of place you can easily hand to someone else. But for us, this is a huge blow as we are essentially left with half a Jacala (since the first half of the name Jacques retired). While there’s no shortage of all kinds of great dining on Anguilla, these are our two favorites by a wide margin.
I dont usually write such posts. Who wants to know about a place that’s closing, in the Caribbean no less. But this is different. Long time readers, especially the Anguilla fans here, saw how Hibernia become an EWZ darling over the years. And in the small chance that any of you are still planning your spring vacation, this is your last chance to experience one heck of a dining experience.
It happens about once a quarter in Ziggy’s household. The announcement that she’s in the mood for a burger. The world stops. I have to pause the Hockey game, oil change, or whatever I’m doing, and start planning something immediately. In a smaller town, this would be an easy task. In NYC, its a project. You just know that she’s not talking about Five Guys. The last time I took her to a fast food joint is actually the last time.
I can probably come up with a list of 50 solid choices, but the usual suspects that come to mind are Red Hook Tavern, Au Cheval, and the Korean/American Nowon. Since we’ve been to the first during the previous urge, and reservations at Nowon are hard to get these days, its Au Cheval to the rescue. Although scoring a table here wasnt a picnic either, and it even costs money (about $2 pp). Happy wife, happy Ziggy.
The best thing I can say about a meal at Au Cheval is that the burger was not the best thing we ate. As good as the burger was, there was one item that we continued to talk about the next day. Maybe I should’nt just say it, but instead provide a series of links where you’ll have to navigate through a bunch of pages featuring a rundown of the dishes, erectile dysfunction ads, and one of those “are you a robot” to make sure everything is running smoothly. Or maybe just stick to this format
That item is the Mac & Cheese. Apologies if you expected something fancier like the Steak Frites or Branzino. The steak is indeed of good quality and perfectly cooked. But this was some of the most addictive Mac & Cheese we ever had. It featured bits of their famous bacon because clearly the thick slabs on your burger are not enough. And enough quality black pepper to make Cacio e Pepe fans drool. Its like the perfect Mac & Cheese and Cacio e Pepe lovechild. Worth coming here just for this.
I already covered the burger here. Its not a case of elevated dry-aged meat, but more of a sum of all parts. Its a solid oversized American cheeseburger. And adding the bacon and egg is icing on the cake, albeit very heavy for shrinking stomachs (the over 50). Once you factor the burger, Mac & Cheese, a riff on General T’so’s, and the rest of the menu, you essentially got American on steroids.
Another highlight at Au Cheval is the beer menu. A good combination of International, domestic, local and very local. The Other Half hazy Session was outstanding as pretty much any Other Half I ever had. Go!
Eating With Ziggy 