The Staten Island Survival Guide – 2024 Update

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This is Rendezvous Bay (Part Deux)

You know what they say. Once you are able to spell it without googling, you are halfway there. I’m not exactly sure who says it, or know what it means (sounds more like a Yogi Berra quote). But when it comes to certain places with difficult spellings, it rings true. It took me years to finally learn how to spell Rendezvous Bay without looking. Roughly 5 years for “Rendezvous”, and a couple of months for “Bay”. I’m now officially a fan.

Coincidentally I almost misspelled “Deux” here. For a blog with the tagline “Dining Well, Spelling Pourly”, maybe I should let some of these spellings stay. But I cant screw up the title for search purposes. 

Part Deux was more of the same. Same hotel (Rendezvous Bay Hotel), same beach, same beach shacks, same healing powers. The healing powers were especially important as both stays were right after hardships. We’ve been around, especially in this part of the world. I cant think of another beach or place that can better improve your spiritual health. We needed this. 

For city slickers, it can be a religious experience. Until you turn right one day and see a 60+ male wearing a Borat style black thong, and you are stuck with this image for half of the trip. Thats the price you pay when dealing with empty beaches. You are in the mercy of those interrupting the tranquility. Would it kill him to lie on his back just once. On second thought, strike that. Its not a prettier picture.

When the Sunshine Shack is open, you’ll find roughly 90% of the people on this beach there. It evolved from a simple beach shack to one of the most popular simple beach shacks in the Caribbean. Its the Caribbean version of the original Shake Shack. Waits for food can be painful at times so bring your patience, and order a frozen BBC (Baily’s, Banana, Coconut) to fill you up while you wait. Stick to chicken and ribs, as the lobster isnt the best value

There’s not a whole lot I can write that I didnt before, so I’ll just leave you with the original post. More food for thought to come. Just like with the previous installment, its weird to write about some beach at these crazy times. But we can all use a distraction sometimes.

This is Rendezvous Bay – Part 1

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Back to Hibernia {Anguilla}

The triumphant post pandemic return to one of my favorite restaurants in the world.  This time for dinner.  Although we’ll be doing dinners only most likely at this point, you all need to experience this place for lunch.  It’s an experience, even if yo are not the biggest fan of this kind of food.  Though knowing many of my readers personally, chances of you not loving this menu is remote. Not too often we encounter a menu where we want to try every single dish.   

Its an ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.’ kinda menu, with some ingredient change but the menu stays the course overall.  We usually start and end the same way.  Foie Gras, smoked fish, with the brilliant rum raisin ice cream with aged rum for the finish.  This time we felt a little naughty and added some prunes with chocolate (looks like we had it before).  This is probably the only time we eat prunes other than.. you know….

Original and rest of the post

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Don Peppe – Legend Still Going Strong

Every time I’m invited to an event at Don Peppe, I huff, and puff and bitch all the way there. Its too far, its too old, its past its prime, I think I have a rash and it could get nasty any minute. No shortage of excuses. I just dont like to travel too far for old school Italian. But every single time I go there, I’m not only reminded how good it is, but I’m also reminded that we dont really have anything like it.

Even with a party of 10 on a Saturday night, no reservations allowed (I dont think). And even with a very full house, and standing room only in the oversized waiting room, we got our table in no time. People travel here from all parts of the city, often well over an hour to get a chance to experience this legend. In fact, its one of the only reasons to get to the JFK area other than JFK. Well, except the casino or if you are on your way to long island as I once did with my daughters. Introducing them to Don Peppe was like taking them to a Goodfellas movie set.

New York Times

Don Peppe is family style at its core. Families, and large groups have been coming here since 1968. Its Carmine’s for locals if you will, though arguably much better food. At this isolated location, you better be good to make it all those years. The only issue, and its not a small one with a large group, is what to order, and how much of it. Your eyes are often bigger than your stomach. And as much as you want to be at the mercy of the trusted waiter, our shrinking stomachs may not always agree with his assessment.

I think more than half of the people come here strictly for the Vongole. Spaghetti with clam sauce is individually plated table side, and reliably addictive. When the waiter took the order and dictated the amount we need, my friend mistakenly told him that he doesnt believe every one of us wants it. The waiter corrected the silly goose with a show of hands. 

Earlier on, the baked clams and simple house salads were winners. The salad is individually plated as well. We also often like to order Shrimp Fra Diovolo as an app. Fresh, plump, and plenty of heat for old school Italian. Though its beyond time for us to try some of the other Shrimp dishes that I suspect are even better. The only app I would skip is the mozz-tomato-peppers combo.

The zesty, buttery “Francese” like chicken was spot on. Same with the perfectly flaky, delicious Sole. But the one main that people often go nuts about here is the Veal Don Peppe. Breaded veal cutlets covered with tomatoes, peppers and onions. Its a crowd pleaser even on crowded stomachs. 

And just when the food coma starts to kick in, we still rarely miss dessert here. From the Tiramisu, Tartufo, and Sorbetto, its hard to go wrong here. While the prices have increased over the years, the fine house red is still fairly affordable. Not the most touristy location, but you wont find a more fitting “welcome to NYC” when arriving to JFK. Go!     

      

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Top 10 Things We Ate in Paris

Final Paris post. It wasnt a flawless eating trip by any stretch. In between all that brilliance we had a few hiccups (I’m looking at you Eunoé), but we were quite happy with the final result. The food scene in Paris is a lot more interesting than 10-20 years ago, when old school Bistros were just Bistros, and proper Asian and other ethnic food was almost nonexistent. All this means with some careful researching you can create quite the varied food itinerary. Although personally I was mainly focused on food that’s not part of my diet back at home.

Escargot at L’Aubergeade

I’ve already written about this hidden gem in the 12th. Very popular with locals. In fact we were one of few that were not given hugs by the owner (reflected in my Yelp review!) who was running around as if there were two of him. Well, until we realized there were in fact two, twins. I could have picked pretty much any dish from this meal, but the addictive Escargot stood out for us. Just the right amount of butter and garlic, just like we like them.

“Tomato” at Granite

Tom Meyer’s Granite is a welcomed retreat from the mad scramble Louvre nearby. A 10+ dish feast for all senses. I dont take detailed notes anywhere, but if I did here, it would read like a novel. There were too many hits to mention, but the Tomato dish was the most memorable one. Of course it was not just a tomato, but a “welcome to a Michelin star in Paris tomato”. A flavor symphony with each morsel.

Sweetbread at Parcelles

A local gem that became a tourist darling once the NYT and other publications took note. Its one of the hottest tables in Paris these days. While all dishes were great especially one particular Calf’s head carpaccio, the Sweetbread is the reason to come. Whether you like sweetbread is almost irrelevant. With that mashed potato, dark veal jus and capers, its a spoonful of pure bliss. They only make about 10-15 of them, so some call to reserve it for dinner. 

Jambon Beurre at Le Petite Vendome

A sandwich legend among the Guccis and the Louis in the area. Sandwiches available at the bar or takeout, and they are simply sensational. We shared a classic, and one with quality black pepper and goat cheese. Just my kind of old school at a price of less than half of some of the other notables. Nice atmosphere, music, and fun, happy waiters even when they get super busy. Best to arrive right after lunchtime if you can, when the pesky tourists disperse.

Argentinian Entrecôte at Blanca  

The fact that we had this a day after our visit to the famed Paul Bert is everything you need to know. Superb quality meat cooked to med-rare perfection. I hesitated to put anything on it because it was so flavor packed but after trying it I happily poured the homemade vinegary chimichurri and black pepper. Its a tiny place so reserve ahead. Music on Wednesdays as of this writing. 

Whiting at Perception

The best and fun way to take advantage of the Paris Michelin culture is try to find the places that are on the cusp of stardom. Perception in the 9th is one of many Asian inspired contemporary neo Bistros, led by a talented Korean chef. While I could have easily picked the stuffed cabbage (ratatouille moment for Mrs Z), or BBQ pork cooked three ways, the beautiful, delicate whiting was unlike anything I ever had.

Cassoulet at La Forge (5th)

When I was younger, and had a head full of dazzling hair, my favorite French dish was the Cassoulet. When I saw it on menus I would stop reading the rest of it. That’s why I was setting myself up for disappointment at La Forge, even though its one of their specialties. Its so often not the same as you remember. Needless to say it was as glorious as I was hoping and then some. Although the duck confit at this Southwestern old-timer was equally as good. One of our favorite meals.

Profiteroles at Grande Brasserie

While I’ve eaten my fair share of Profiteroles during my young life, I never imagined that it would make this list. Between the size, and the flavors of this monster, its just about the best Profiteroles we ever had. Not surprising considering Grande Brasserie is one of the more reliable traditional Brasseries in the center. And the attractive, well lit room is a major bonus for us young boomers. 

Cheese at Paroles de Fromagers

The plan, to eat a great amount of cheese while in Paris was a big fail. All the popular stores were brimming with tourists, and the rest of the time my stomach was brimming with other food. But I saved room for the cheese and wine class at Paroles de Fromagers where it was not only educational, but some of the tastiest Cheese I ever had. Époisses, Saint-Nectaire, Roquefort Carles just to name a few. 

Pastries at Cyril Lignac

Even though they didnt quite look like this when we ate them at the airport. The Equinox, Citron, and Kouign-Amann, all outstanding in that order. I dont usually get excited by looks, but these were the most hypnotic pastries I’v ever seen, with the flavors to match. And they open at 7 am (at least the one on Paul Bert). I mean nothing opens this early in Paris

Bon Appétit 

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Z-List Update

Speaking of which (last post), a long overdue update to the Z-List. Five in, five out….

Out

Capizzi – Just not as strong as the many newer pizzerias
Bowery Meat Co. – Hard to stay below $100 especially if you want steak
Marta – Sadly closed
Scampi – Sadly closed
Faro – Closed. The location was a killer

In

Indian Table
Foxface Natural
Claude
L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele
19 Cleveland

The list

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Foxface Update

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10 Random Paris Tips

Palais Garnier

Whether you are a first timer, a ten timer, urologist or whatever, you may find some of these random tips useful. Or not. I have no idea. That’s why I like to use the word “Random”. It relieves some of the pressure to provide the most necessary tips, such as how to carry your wallet, say hello, and my absolute favorites, “Bring Your Camera”, and “Wear Comfy Shoes”. I prefer to focus on tips not covered as much by the mainstream.

Stay in the 11th arrondissement

I suppose what’s a better way to get your attention than start with some controversy. With so many areas to choose from, I suggest staying in one where the closest major attraction is… a cemetery. But that’s precisely the idea here. Its an often overlooked area, mainly outside the tourist route. While you’ll see plenty of tourists, its a nice mix of locals, tourists, boutique shops, cafes, and most importantly one of the better food areas in Paris. Its like the East Village of Paris. After visiting all areas in the center, it felt good coming back here.

Take a food/drink experience

A food experience is something I always look for in my travels. Mainly food tours. The problem of food tours in Paris is that most tours offer mostly the familiar stuff… Croissant, Baguette, cheese, cold cuts…) but the experience as a whole including meeting other visitors, and a fun guide still may make it worthwhile. But instead of a food tour, consider something like a French cheese and wine class to get up to speed with these important and often misunderstood staples. Paroles de Fromagers is not a collection of cheesemongers on parole, but a shop that offers these fun educational experiences including tastings and workshops. And if Agathe is your “teacher”, you are in for a treat.

Spend a night in Chartres

A charming town becomes a magical one at night. Usually between April and January (check the current year plan), the striking cathedral and monuments all over town get illuminated. The cathedral light show alone will make famous Saks 5th Ave blush with envy. You also have the picturesque medieval center, the tiled Maison Picassiette, and on the way you can stop by the splendid Château de Maintenon (below)

Louvre’s real secrets are the entrances

Much has been said about this one, but why no one takes advantage. While the line by the pyramid snakes around for like a mile, just walk 5 minutes to the “Porte des Lions” entrance where the two lions will greet you with a much nicer welcome. Thats two lions more than most likely the amount of people you’ll encounter. But not from the river side as the gate may be closed. From the Jardin du Carrousel side. Once inside in the lobby turn left. Strangely if you turn right, you may see a sign saying you are at the wrong building. Just turn around.

See “How to become a Parisian in one hour”

Here’s a tip in the true sense. Instead of seeing school level artistry featuring topless women at a small fortune, why not see a show that’s much more of a bang for the buck. Unless of course no topless is a non starter. “How to become a Parisian in one hour” is not exactly a riot, but a witty one man show by an animated comedian. Its a fun hour and change. And in the process you learn a few things about Parisians, metro, shopping, Parisian dog poop, and even get a chance to ask him questions at the end.

Eiffel’s best angle is from Trocadéro

If you are like Mrs Z, you’ll likely drag your significant other to the “Iphone Tower” (because thats all you’ll mostly see) every other day. Even when you stay 30 minutes away. We saw the tower from every angle at different times of the day, and nothing remotely comes close to the view from Trocadéro Square at night where you see the icon in all its glory. (The last time we did that was October 7!). Other areas closer to the tower were much less pleasant.

Adjust your Breakfast needs

Its 8 am, you are tired of Yoghurt, croissant, baguette, butter, jam, rinse, repeat for the past 5 days and you are ready for a nice omelet. An hour later, you give up searching and settle for a croissant, baguette, butter, jam breakfast elsewhere for double the price and no yoghurt. While you can find amazing egg dishes, and other goodies Americans associate with breakfast in Paris, it doesnt mean that you’ll find many kitchens serve these things before 11 am. Even if Google shows that the corner Brasserie is open early, it doesnt means its kitchen is open. Instead follow the local crowds into bakeries.

Put Palais Garnier on the must list

You can easily overlook this gem if you only focus on “guide book musts”. Although not quite as famous as the Louvre, this might be a more memorable experience depending on your interests. Opulence on another level. And that’s just what people are normally wearing for this photo shoot. This is where I want my next wedding to take place!

Learn your RERs and SNCFs

Using the metro in Paris is very convenient. I have to admit that as a New Yorker I was envious. It took us a few trips to Paris to finally use it, but once we did, it became fairly easy with the aid from best friend Google Maps. If only my friend gave me the proper advice when we went to Chantilly. While you can get there with RER, it’s not only not the best way, but you risking a fine when you take the wrong train back which is quite easy to do. For within the city use the RER. For intercity, use the comfy and sometimes even strangely cheaper SNCF.

Yes, have a crepe, but also try a Galette

I’m shocked by the amount of visitors that come to Paris and never try a Galette. Ok, I only met two, but they are out there I’m sure. Galette is the savory, good looking cousin of the Crepe, made with buckwheat flour and filled with cooked ham, egg, and comté cheese. After a big lunch, I cant think of a better alternative to pizza as a light dinner. Its a Brittany import, and the best place to try them are Brittany imports like the Breizh Cafe chain.

Thats all I got today kids. Just remember to wear comfy shoes and dont forget to take your camera!

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L’Aubergeade {Paris} – Double Trouble

I was told by a local to keep this one a secret. I told him sure no problem, but failed to mention that I’m not very good at keeping secrets. Not to mention the local who gave me this secret equally sucks at it. Sometimes secrets get you in trouble. Like when I told my primary doctor that I smoked cigarettes at the age of 6. He’s old and didnt quite get the half joke and sent me for a Chest CT scan and other tests.

With the war in the Middle East consuming our lives these days, our visit to L’Aubergeade feels like ages ago. But it was only last month. On our first night in Paris the stars aligned, and everything clicked. Well, until we picked the “iPhone Tower” as our after meal Passeggiata. Its like a giant iPhone commercial these days as that’s all you see all around you. iPhones, red balloons, and a tower somewhere between it all.

L’Aubergeade is an old timer, run by two old timers. Twins in fact. I was about to say to my wife, “its like there are two of him”, until I noticed our waiter/owner had a different shirt this time. The twins easily handled the entire house, running around like two teenagers. In the US we are accustomed to seeing double the amount of workers in places this size, not to mention half the age of the twins.

Early on the silky smooth Foie Gras with clementine jam was a nice preview of things to come. Even more memorable was the addictive Escargot. Garlicky, buttery, awesomeness. Just like we like them. The problem with perfect escargot on your first night in Paris is that the rest of the stay they may seem pedestrian (and they were).

The deconstructed steak tartare was more deconstructed than I anticipated with all the ingredients including all the sauces on the table. But after mixing it up with some adjustments I think I’m ready for a chef de Tartare at Granite. Not sure I prefer it this way but enjoyed it nonetheless.

Leg of lamb with couscous was masterfully cooked. Extremely tender and scrumptious. Finished with a nice “Norwegian Omelet”, a new one for us. Essentially a baked Alaska. Flambéed, ultra light, fluffy, with an ice cream surprise inside. My favorite kind of surprise.

L’Aubergeade is just the kind of rustic we look for on our travels. Judging by the amount of locals in the house, it seems like everyone’s kind. Its not quite on the tourist trail. The residential location in the 12th will probably make sure of that. Tremendous value to boot with 88 euros total including a nice bottle of house white. This is a major Go!

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Indian Table – A Goan Delight in Brooklyn

Its official boys and girls. Indian Table is now my favorite Indian in NYC. It may change next month or even next week. But for the time being, this Cobble Hill gem fits my taste like a favorite pair of shoes that you can only wear once or twice a week. Otherwise you risk losing their efficiency or they become stinky.

Indian Table is far from the typical NYC Indian, even though they offer some typical dishes. Thankfully I might add, after trying their killer Butter Chicken. Indian Table is Goan at its core, so plenty of Goan and hence Portuguese influences throughout the menu. There’s even a Pasteis De Nata for dessert. At the helm is a seasoned Eric McCarthy whose resume includes Michelined Tamarind and Tulsi among other notables.

McCarthy’s latest is not the Michelin kind (although you never know), but a nice bridge between sophisticated and your corner casual Indian. There’s a smart wine and cocktail list, in addition to a headache inducing food menu. The manager can masterfully guide and help with the headaches. In addition to Goan specialties, Indian Table also offers Restaurant Week theme menus that highlight different regions. On my first visit, it was the Malvan region, with a group of “Chowhounds”.

As for the food, duds are hard to come by. Eric’s Punjabi Samosas are rock solid, while the tomato ladened crispy cauliflower is more typical. The star early on was the beautifully marinated Achari Chicken Tikka. Smoky, minty, and flavor packed. Speaking of smoky, we wished for more wonderful chorizo from “Auntie Rosie’s Choris Pao” and less of the other stuff (like the spongy bun) but I’d order it again.

The chicken lineup is the main headache culprit. It has everything I look for in an Indian restaurant including my long time friend, the Chicken Chettinad. I tend to pick places that have this on the menu. Peppery, well balanced, and really one of the best versions I’ve had. While the Butter Chicken was not on the menu this night, they happily made a solid version. A rare Xacuti (Goan specialty) was fine, though some did not appreciate the star anise and fennel notes.

Another hit was the Konkan Railway Mutton. Unclear if its a riff on the railway classic that was served on the trains between Bombay and Calcutta during British rule, or another railway creation. Regardless, its another tender, succulent, red pepper based goat curry. Mutton in Indian cuisine is referred to goat and sheep, just to confuse us further.

With all these meat dishes, I opted for Jackfruit Biryani. Jackfruit did an admirable job subbing for meat, with some aid from the potato, but I was still missing the meat slightly. Like when your favorite team wins the game, but dont play as well as they usually play. I wasnt missing the meat at all in the Achari Baigan (eggplant) however. A wonderful lineup, all washed down with a fine Sancerre which is quickly becoming our new favorite white.

Indian Table
234 Court St (Cobble Hill, Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Achari Chicken Tikka, Choris Pao, Punjabi Samosas, Chicken Chettinad, Butter Chicken (ask if not on the menu), Konkan Railway Mutton, Achari Baigan

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