Cabaret L’enfer {Montreal} – Enjoy the Science

Raise you hand if you think I take notes while dining out. I dont, with very rare exceptions. I dont even spend much time taking all the necessary pictures. I stopped years ago after annoying too many family and friends. It’s worth noting that a big reason for this blog is to simply keep track of where and what I eat, as opposed to whether I had a Ratatouille moment when I took my first bite of that Pate en Croute.

With that said, I did take notes at the exceptional Cabaret L’enfer. Only to delete the note by mistake yesterday. Turns out Yahoo linked Notes cant be recovered?!? So you have to deal with my memories yet again, even though it feels like this very recent meal was ages ago. After all, if its not memorable, maybe its not worth writing about.

Not only it was memorable, but this was a sound contender for meal of the year, challenging places like Foxface Natural, Ronda’s Casa Mateos, and Anguilla’s Hibernia just off top of my head. Very rarely, everything clicks as it did at Cabaret L’enfer. Even the 80’s/New Wave playlist felt like specifically engineered for us. I remember thinking toward the end that the only thing missing from this experience was Depeche Mode, and 10 minutes later, Bam, we Enjoy the Silence. The GOAT!

Music seems very important to Montreal born chef/owner Massimo Piedimonte who curates his own playlists in addition to curating a masterpiece set menu. We had a direct view of his dance moves by the charcoal grill where he’s in charge. Guidance under names you may have heard like Daniel Boulud and René Redzepi at NOMA taught him not only how to flat out cook, but how to make a place unique and your own. Very rarely you feel like you are at someone’s extended living room at a place of this caliber.

canadas100best

The set menu is a beautiful multicultural marriage, especially of the chef’s Italian and French heritage. And at $120 its decent value, especially for New Yorkers. They do try to push their wine, especially natural. Wine pairing starts at $100, but there are some interesting selections by the glass.

Homemade flatbread with Stracciatella and fresh snappy peas was just the kind of start you wished. And if the perfectly grilled Tuna Belly Tostada didnt get the juices going, three lobster filled Cappellacci surely did. Then comes a superb grilled lobster (+$20) that was much appreciated but not necessary. Its an 8 course feast full of highlights without the lobster.

The first of the second half highlights was a sliced scallop with Fava beans, and a Vermouth based sauce. This is one of those moments where you hesitate to drink your wine in order to let the taste buds keep dancing. After a dish like this, asparagus with wild Nettles almost feels like a cleanser. Probably the least favorite dish, but one that makes sense in a menu as such.

The last savory item was thee highlight. An outstanding well marbled Entrecote with bits of artichoke and Bordelaise sauce. As my neighbor proclaimed “I’m full but I can eat a few more of those”. I dont recall the last time I ate a finer piece of beef. When you are on such a culinary high, dessert can easily get lost in the shuffle. No exception here. More of a testament to the rest of the triumph. Go!

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What To Do And See Around Ronda

Ronda, smack in the middle of Andalucia isnt getting nearly as much love as the big boys. That’s partly due to its size, and partly for being, well, smack in the middle, away from the big boys. While businesses such as the the nearby wineries would prefer a Rioja type fame, as a tourist I’m not complaining. At the moment I’m researching Napa, our most famous wine country, and the difference is staggering in price, crowds and even beauty.

Simply put, the Serrania de Ronda, the southwest region of the Malaga province is a geographical wonder. It rivals Tuscany as one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever seen, and we were completely unprepared for it. Not that we needed to be more prepared (cleaner underwear?) but it totally caught us by surprise and maybe I would have made an effort to stay longer. Here’s what we did before, during, and after our stay in Ronda.

Reservatauro Ronda – This is a very unique place. A horse and bull farm about 10 km outside of Ronda. A 90 minute tour of the property, and an entertaining lesson of the rich history of Ronda bull fighting and horse breeding. You can upgrade to a light lunch, and meet other travelers in the process. And if you’ll get Desiree(sp?) as your guide you are in for a treat, including a mean Tinto de Verano.

Setenil de las Bodegas – Out of the many white villages in the area and all over Andalucia this is perhaps the most unique. Houses built into the surrounding cliffs. Its quite a sight that’s becoming more and more popular, so better to come early or late in the day to beat the crowds. If you come late, the hilly village may be a bit more challenging but it will be relatively peaceful.

Olvera – Another picturesque village, albeit this one fairly sleepy. There was quite a bit construction during our visit, so hopefully you’ll have better luck, and energy. If you are not “castled out” by this point, you may want to check out Olvera Castle for the castle itself and the splendid views of the church from a distance. And while you at it, check out Bar Pimentel for, you guessed it, Russian food, by a character owner

Caminito del Rey – The safest scariest hike in the world deserves its own post. It an hour out so you can do it as a day trip from Ronda, Malaga, Granada or on your way to one of them as we did. A bucket list item for nature lovers.

Bodegas Ramos-Paul – One of a number of wineries scattered just north of Ronda. This is an absolute stunner, managed by a husband and wife team. Wife’s family is one of the original founders of Cruzcampo, the local beer (pretty much) monopoly. Book a tour of the property, followed by a tasting of their robust, superb reds served with two to three tasty tapas. The wine is aged at least 10 years in the bottle, and costs well under $100 due to, well, not being called Rioja. A fraction of what you’ll pay in Napa for a similar experience.

Other possibilities: Cueva de la Pileta, Zahara de la Sierra, Casares…

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Leitao – Meet NYC’s Best Portuguese

Its 2024, and you would think by now we should have Portuguese Churrasqueiras spinning Rotisserie chicken in every neighborhood like in cities all over our northern neighbor. Not only we dont have that, but Portuguese food in general just never took off outside of maybe Newark, NJ. Szechuan, Thai, Korean and more took off in a spectacular way. Even Birria, something that no one knew anything about 5 years ago, can now be found in every hood. In other words, the title is not a stretch.

As I already mentioned in the latest Z-List update, Leitao is my favorite discovery of the year so far. And sadly, I dont usually discover them this way. I noticed Leitao while exploring the area, as opposed to the usual way, exploring social media. The first thing I noticed was the most ambitious Portuguese menu I’ve seen outside of Portugal, by quite a margin.

Leitao opened during the pandemic by a chef/owner from Braga. And my guess is that they opted to skip the mandatory payment to the social media mafia, opting for the good ol’ word of mouth instead. It probably took some time, but by the look of things, it paid off. In both my visits so far including at off hours, the place was mobbed, and many seem to be repeaters. We repeated two weeks after the first visit. Something as rare as summer Olympics.

The closest I got to Braga was the stunning Bom Jesus. Equally as spectacular, and maybe even as spiritual to some, is that Leitao menu which reads like the Best of Portugal. It even includes the namesake, an entire Suckling Pig meal for only $400. From my experience the Portuguese do it better than the Spaniards. After trying much of the menu, some winners emerged, and zero duds. Big menus can mean big problems, plenty of thrills, or both. Much depends on the head chef ability to handle it. So far so good…

Porco Preto – If I have to pick one unsung hero that is not getting the proper credit here. Well marbled Iberico Ribs cooked with wine and topped with a toasted garlic and chili mix. Easily falls off the bone and supremely flavorful. An absolute must.

Camarao ao Alho – Beautiful plump shrimp on top of a thick(er) Bourbon, Garlic, Lobster sauce. Comes with a nice surprise, a basket of fresh Baguettes from Orwasher bakery.

Shishito Peppers – Heaps of smoked paprika and chili, sitting on a thin, almost hidden layer of yoghurt. They provide spice levels on the menu, an this is listed as a 5. While not too spicy by any stretch, its spicy enough to affect other dishes.

Robalo – Another must that we had to have on both visits so far is this butterflied Seabass. Big flavors from the spinach sauce, EVOO, and smoked paprika rub on top. Reminded me of the famous fish at Contramar in Mexico City rather than anything we had in Portugal.

Piri Piri Chicken – Not the most tender chicken in town, but tender enough, flavor packed, and probably the most popular dish here.

Salad de Polvo (top)- You know it will be good just by the look and initial touch. The classic mammoth Portuguese no frills but plenty of thrills octopus. Outside of maybe Newark, not so easy to find in the Metrolopitan area. One of two solid Polvos on the menu.

Francesinha – If you never had a Francesinha you are in for a treat. Not quite Porto-esque, but not bad at all. An elaborate sandwich of Fillet Mignon, chorizo and salami covered with melted mozzarella and beer sauce. I shared it with three others, and still was able to taste plenty. Not sure if you can get it topped with egg as you can get in Porto.

Polvo – Unlike the salad, the “Polvo” is sliced and comes with fried potatoes and chorizo. Something I’d order again, even though I’m not sure I prefer over the Polvo salad.

Pasteis de Nata – I’m not even sure what other desserts they offer after seeing these babies being paraded all over the place. They look a little burnt but they dont taste like it. Flaky and fantastic.

Drinks are solid as well. Good Beer menu, and Portuguese inspired cocktails like Porto Tonico.

Leitao
547 Hudson St (West Village)
Recommended Dishes: All of the above especially the Porco Preto, Robalo and any of the Octopus

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Quebec City – The Good, the Great, and the Ugly

Duck Ham at Buvette Scott

After spending weeks trying to understand Quebec City’s cuisine, you’d think after spending some time in the city, the answer would be clear. Strawberries, cheese, Poutine, Montreal Smoked Meat? When you start mentioning items from other cities, maybe the list isnt that long to begin with, or cloudy at best. It seems that most items listed are of the traditional variety, and are offered in very few places. La Buche, one of those “Sugar Shacks” is one of those, but it was consistently mobbed during our stay.

Quebec City is not known for anything specific that makes people travel over 500 miles as we just did. But we did find a seemingly up and coming food scene led by a plethora of ingredient driven, farm to tables that work with whatever is in season. So you may find asparagus, morels, strawberries, etc following you from menu to menu. And things get increasingly more interesting once you leave the old town…

The Good

Buvette Scott – An intimate, mostly delicious delight with the kind of service that feels like hanging out with old friends. A special of lightly fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with mascarpone and smoked trout. The signature duck ham is like eating duck butter. Mezzelune pasta stuffed with ricotta and topped with lobster, scrumptious and pleasing to the eye. Morels stuffed with chicken wing meat with aromatic veal and wine broth, and last asparagus of the season was the best of show.

Chez Boulay-bistro boréal – A classic in the old town. A comfortable room with a working A/C turned out to be a surprise luxury in QC. Lunch specials come with soup (excellent leek and potato on this day) or salad (nice seed action). Cavatelli with broccoli and local cheese was light and perfectly executed. Lean, flaky beef cheeks with a complimentary ratatouille is a signature here and I can see why. After the meal, exit through the other end via the hotel (that’s also where the bathrooms are) and check out the Bouley sweets store. Talk about eye popping stuff.

Le Clocher Penché – Choosing between an uncomfortably warm room and a room with no ambiance was not a good start. The appetizers made up for it more than the mains. Scallops with morels, easily top dish. The sauce is the reason to order the terrific bread. Shell pasta with oyster mushrooms and Pork chop were serviceable.

Chez Mag on Île d’Orléans – If there’s one tip I can give you besides booking the one “great” is circle the entire Île d’Orléans for strawberries, picturesque homes and lobster rolls. These rolls wont win any awards, but eating them with a side of smoked meat poutine in that picnic area is hard to beat. Standing on line and listening to the conversations around you is part of the experience.

Chez Temporel – Quebece City takes their brunches very seriously. The Croque Monsieur may look like something I would make, but did not lack flavor. “Brunch Plate” featuring the Frittata of the day and other goodies did not disappoint.

Boulangerie artisanale Epi’Fanny – Close to a religious experience for croissant lovers. Jambon sandwiches, not quite Le Petite Vendome level, but will make you at least reminisce.

Épicerie J.A. Moisan – The one store you should check out. All sorts of international items displayed in a smart way. We sampled some cheese and ended up with a creamy La Bete a Seguin to enjoy with a baguette.

The Great

Melba – Our top meal in Quebec City and it wasnt even close. Opened last year in the up and coming Saint-Sauveur neighborhood by a mega talented team of cooks. Thankfully the ties to the popular Battuto don’t include reservation difficulties. One of the joys of reserving in Montreal and QC for a New Yorker is that I dont have to spend hours finding a table.

Hors d’oeuvre as the name suggests are snacks here, so I recommend at least three for two. You can even let the waiter pick as we did. Just make sure to get the “Bikini Sandwiches”. Best Grilled cheese sandwich you will ever have, with zucchini and olives and more zucchini slices on top. You may also enjoy the Barbajuans, like skinny fritters stuffed with lamb and spices with homemade babaganoush as a dip, or Deviled eggs with lobster.

Mains arent too shabby either. A delicate lobster poached Halibut with the softest carrots and lobster bisque. As good as that was, it was bested by Guineafowl with potatoes, chard and a killer combination of sauces. The good selection of wine by the glass and the addictive buttery buns sealed it. Flawless to say the least. All considering good value as well.

The Ugly

Au Petit Coin Breton – Uninspiring pricy crepes with egg, ham and cheese. Nothing like a classic Breton Galette. The crepes at Baguette & Chocolat looked more like it. Much of the old town spots are for tourists.

The Prices – I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a city as expensive as NYC outside of the US. Even Montreal seems cheap in comparison. The high tourist to local ration in QC has something to do with it.

The Tipping – Quebec City’s food scene is having a moment, and so is its tipping culture looks like. I’ve been to Canada many times, but I dont recall ever feeling the need to tip like in NYC. With every machine starting at either 15% or 18% and finishing at 25% even for ice cream, tipping less than 20% felt odd.

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Garum 2.1 {Cordoba} – Bistronomics 101

When you follow a dud with a triumph the next night, it feels particularly gratifying. Two duds in a row on vacation is hard to stomach, like watching a US presidential debate these days. Even an average meal after a dud feels incomplete. You need an epic to compensate, and that’s what we got at Garum 2.1, along with one of those rare breed waiters.

Talking about presidential debates, just like Bidenomics, Bistronomics is all about empowering from within. In Andalucia it means taking traditional dishes like Salmorejo, Rabo de toro to the next level. There’s a menu display outside of Garum (or was it inside) that upon closer inspection is actually a trophy display. A list of Garum 2.1 Tapas including traditional that received awards. As a tourist, you appreciate places that take tradition and culture seriously. You feel that throughout the the south of Spain especially thanks to places like Garum 2.1.

I chose Garum over the now closed Paco Morales bar. After taking a close look at the latter I was just not feeling it. One reason I chose Garum was the numerous mentions of one particular waiter which we happen to get as well. In Malaga we encountered our favorite overall staff of the trip, but this may be the most brilliant waiter. Humble, super polite, accommodating, and really just another level of service. Truly a rare breed.

As tourists we are hardly Salmorejo (sort of a cold tomato soup) experts, but this was pretty darn good. As with most Salmorejos we had, the flavor is fairly strong (a good thing), and overpowering most of the “toppings” (still a good thing). So they look and feel more or less like beauty contests if anything. But the flavors were prevalent with this one.

If you never had a proper Spanish Tortilla this is a good place to try it. Just the right texture. Octopus with fried pig ears over creamy potato purée was the star of show. The creamy potato was an unexpected Andalucian specialty we encountered throughout the region. The Rabo de Toro (oxtail) was something we couldnt get enough during this trip, and this award winning version might have been the best one.

A new dish on the menu was Artichoke with seafood and a superb seafood bisque I could drink like a smoothie. A rule of thumb in Andalucia is Torrija (like a bread pudding) and/or cheesecake for dessert wherever available. Here you get another great Torrija and a fine cheese mousse with fruits. Washing it all down with another excellent Verdejo. Go!

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An Update to the Update

Two days after I updated the Z-List, of course Khe-Yo closes. Just two days shy of its 11th bday. One of the only if not the only Laos restaurants in NYC. Although its been a staple on the list for a while, I haven’t been for dinner since the pandemic. Our last meal was lunch a few years back. I get the sense that rising costs was a big factor. Running a restaurant in NYC especially in that part of the city is as tough as it ever been, and prices reflect. Speaking of pricy, Khe-Yo is replaced by the excellent Raoul’s on the list.

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Malaga (and Area) Random

I’m entitled to one lazy post per quarter, where I just show you some shaky hand pictures and call it a day. Hey, I dont make the rules. But I might as well take this opportunity to inform you that Malaga is stunning. We expected an average Spanish metropolitan with the usual array of historic sites. But instead we got a picturesque historic center that made us cancel all the historic sites we planned.

Winding, narrow streets full of monuments and striking architecture. Its a giant maze of cuteness (as much as I dislike using the word). Whenever we tried to see other areas like SoHo (dont get me started again), Malaga Park and port area, we were drawn back to the historic area like a magnet. Make sure to see the eye popping Mercado Central de Atarazanas as well. Earlier in the morning preferably as it can get crowded during lunch time.

Colomares Castle nearby is good for what it is. A good way to spend an hour or so for selfies watching people doing selfies. Its a unique little place that can be combined with Mijas. Or skip both if you are pressed for time and spend more time in Malaga. The one thing I wouldnt skip however is Caminito del Rey. One of the most spectacular, terrifying but very doable hikes you’ll ever encounter. More on that on another post.

Highly recommend the H10 Croma hotel. Best H10 so far that ticks all the boxes. I already mentioned the terrific La Cosmopolita, one of three Dani Carnero establishments, with the head chef being the former owner of Da Andrea in NYC. Dont have any other food recommendations, but the food scene seems promising. Add Malaga to the mental bucket list.

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Z-List Update

Still trying to keep the list at 30. 4 in, 4 out this time. I tried to include the excellent Ulivo and a few others but I got too many such places especially Italian. Leitao is the most exciting new find this year, but the rest are not too shabby, and not exactly new discoveries.

Out

Danji – Closed for too long due to fire. Not sure when and if it will reopen
Cull and Pistol – “So crowded no one goes there anymore” – Chelsea Market in a nutshell today
Somtum Der – Nothing wrong with SD. Just freshening up the list with new(er) Thai
Jun-Men Ramen – No longer open for lunch on weekdays so havent been in a while.

In

Song e Napule
Leitao
Thai Diner
Claro

The complete list

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Four Solid Options in Granada

I was warned that Granada isnt particularly exciting when it comes to food. So I took it as a challenge. Whether I succeeded or not, it’s debatable. After our first night, a major dud well outside the tourist route, it looked like a fail. But things got surprisingly better in the tourist filled areas. The glaring fail was not so much the dud, but not coming up with a slam dunk as every other city in Andalucía accomplished, including tiny Jaen and Ronda. So more of a testament to the other meals. But these four should still entertain your taste buds plenty.

La Botillería

A long day in the Alhambra requires a serviceable meal on a pleasant shaded sidewalk. This was more than serviceable. Good egg dishes like the one with mushrooms and potato, or eggs with fava beans and Jamon. A more elaborate Flamenquín than usual (we are not fans overall but you need to try it somewhere). The creamy risotto is a signature here and I can see why, though we were more impressed by the free paella we got with the excellent drinks.

Bar Los Diamantes

Granada is a good place to wing it, and places like Bar Los Diamantes makes it easy to do. Its a local institution that got pretty touristy the last few years. But more importantly its a respectable fast casual fried seafood specialist. A big plus is that its open early in case you want to give your tired tourist body a break one day and skip another late meal. The light and fresh fried seafood mix didnt disappoint. But add the fine Galician octopus and Gambas al Ajillo to the mix to complete this one. Come earlier to avoid the line, even though it moves fast. Communal tables add to the joy.

El Trillo

If you’ve been following me for more than 5 minutes you know that I never recommend places strictly for views, and this post is no exception. But a trip to Granada feels incomplete without a meal at a “Carmen” house overlooking Alhambra. At El Trillo, you have that, along with the option of a cozy garden over the sunnier terrace. And the food is not too shabby.

Tuna, Cadiz style, stewed with onions and potatoes was better than a similar dish we had at a more renowned place. Try some of the rice dishes, like the risotto with wild boar and mushroom, or the sensational squid ink rice with chunks of octopus hiding inside. Grilled Turbot, not quite Getaria style (if you know, you know) is expertly cooked. The only thing that didnt impress us was dessert, so hopefully you will have better luck.

Oliver

A Bourdain approved legend in tourist central that’s surprisingly feels very local. Started as a small bar before becoming a full blown dining destination, all by the same Oliver family. Start like a local with a top grade Jamon. Tomato with burrata and pesto, simple and yet very satisfying. Succulent shrimp with garlic, and even better grilled squid. People flock here for the Paellas, one of the specialties. Finish with the superb cheesecake.


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Omakase Ichi – Staten Island’s First Omakase Dazzles

Solid Ramen – check (Ohkami Ramen). Thai – check (Chang Noi Thai). Filipino – check (Phil-Am Kusina). Chinese – work in progress. Omakase – finally! Not that I’ve been holding my breath. But I had to do a triple take when I noticed Ichi on an awkward corner of Amboy while standing on a red light. Omakase is the last thing I expected to see there, though there’s no corner on this island where one would expect it. Refreshing to say the least, especially considering just about every opening lately is Turkish. This island needs Turkish like I need a stone in my shoe.

I’ve never been this excited about eating on the island. Come to think of it, I’ve never really been excited, period. Not to take away anything from many of the places we enjoy like the above mentioned and all the wonderful Sri Lankan. Its just that after 25 years of living here, we’ve been programmed to curb our enthusiasm. But this is Omakase!

Jimmy Wong, the owner, was one of three capable hands behind the counter. He first tested the waters of Long Island before opening his second location on Staten Island three months ago. I guess he figured Manhattan needs another Omakase like we need shingles (last one, I promise). Whether it will work here, I’m very curious to find out. There’s practically zero marketing with Ichi. An ambitious and expensive project to rely on red lights and word of mouth, but I truly hope it works.

You got 10 counter seats, three time slots (4, 6, 8), and ample parking about a block away. A fun, energetic hostess will loosen you up if needed. As with many of the high end Japanese in NYC, fish arrives daily from Japan. I believe the price was $115 p/p for 16 courses. In Staten Island its a special occasion type. In Manhattan, its Wednesday.

Omakase literally means “I leave the details up to you”, but you do get a sense of the kind of details to expect. Some crafty appetizers followed by a bunch of premium grade fish. But there were some surprises. Like the best Miso soup you will ever have that comes with mushrooms and a succulent scallop. Or the monkfish liver that comes with a syringe. And there was a jewelry box containing a truffle infused tuna tartare crispy roll on top of popcorn.

The “main” fish courses were the good, the great, and the dud. The lone dud was a mushy shrimp. Unless I’m on the coast of Sicily or some parts of Puglia munching on red shrimp, I’m not a fan of raw shrimp to begin with. The rest of the items especially the Uni, Scallop, Tuna Belly, King Salmon were superb or close.

As one would expect from a pricy Omakase, there were plenty of expensive ingredients like truffles, caviar, uni, but still letting the fish shine. The Sake was as exceptional as it gets from someone who doesnt drink Sake often. And the entire experience was memorable. Welcome to the neighborhood Ichi. Even though I cant afford you more than once or twice a year.

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