Spain

Four Gems in Seville

Posted on August 6, 2024 by Ziggy

I was about to write about one highlight in particular but I feel generous today. I wont go into details other than on some of the regional specialties that I’ll mention but Andalucia has a rich, vibrant, and very different food scene than the rest of Spain. And seeing even the more refined places keep traditions alive is much appreciated, especially for a tourist. We had all sorts of food experiences in Seville, but these are the four that dazzled our taste buds in ways I can not describe (for the Top Secret fans).

Bar Casa Morales

One of those time warp experiences. Opened in 1850 and still owned by the same family. You feel the history as soon as you walk in. Another entrance to the back room around the corner (that we discovered by accident). Try to arrive when they open if you dont want to wait, and dont be intimidated if you dont speak the language. Try the quality cold cuts, Tortilla, Galician Octopus, but something tells me they can do no wrong. C. García de Vinuesa, 11

Bodeguita Romero

Come for the famous Pringa and stay for the rest of the menu. This is another local legend. Best to arrive when they open or risk long lines. But whatever you do, dont give up on it. While the Pringa (Pork Sandwich) was indeed outstanding, we liked everything else just as much. The Salmorejo (like a tomato soup) is addictive. Try the expertly cooked whole grilled squid. And the immensely flavorful and tender Carillera (pork cheek). C. Harinas, 10

Blanca Paloma

I’ve already written about this jewel in the colorful Triana neighborhood. Its hard but not impossible to reserve but best to show up on the early side (sense a theme here?). For us Americans eating before the locals start flocking in (2pm for lunch, 9pm for dinner) didnt require a great effort. Try anything and everything shrimp including eggplant stuffed with shrimp, mini garlic shrimp burgers, and shrimp a la Plancha. C. San Jacinto, 49

Amara

Saving the best for last. Our top meal in Seville also happened to be the most expensive. Though a €48 tasting menu was still tremendous value for us New Yorkers. Chef/owner Javier Fabo grew up in the Amara neighborhood in San Sebastián, and trained at French Laundry, Gordon Ramsey, and other notables. Tiny Amara is a beautiful homage to the Basque heritage with much emphasis to local traditions.

Great bread is often an indication of things to come and that’s no different here. You may start the journey with a complex Ajoblanco (cold soup) made with coconut, cashews, garlic, pineapple, and other goodies. Then maybe a lovely Croqueta with squid and squid ink, followed by Artichoke in Jerez butter and Iberian Chicharron. Then maybe a 65 degrees egg with mushrooms, truffles, a Basque classic. If there’s a large rice dish with pork (top) as a special, you may want to pounce on it too. C. Zaragoza, 18

What To Do And See Around Ronda

Posted on July 20, 2024 by Ziggy

Ronda, smack in the middle of Andalucia isnt getting nearly as much love as the big boys. That’s partly due to its size, and partly for being, well, smack in the middle, away from the big boys. While businesses such as the the nearby wineries would prefer a Rioja type fame, as a tourist I’m not complaining. At the moment I’m researching Napa, our most famous wine country, and the difference is staggering in price, crowds and even beauty.

Simply put, the Serrania de Ronda, the southwest region of the Malaga province is a geographical wonder. It rivals Tuscany as one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever seen, and we were completely unprepared for it. Not that we needed to be more prepared (cleaner underwear?) but it totally caught us by surprise and maybe I would have made an effort to stay longer. Here’s what we did before, during, and after our stay in Ronda.

Reservatauro Ronda – This is a very unique place. A horse and bull farm about 10 km outside of Ronda. A 90 minute tour of the property, and an entertaining lesson of the rich history of Ronda bull fighting and horse breeding. You can upgrade to a light lunch, and meet other travelers in the process. And if you’ll get Desiree(sp?) as your guide you are in for a treat, including a mean Tinto de Verano.

Setenil de las Bodegas – Out of the many white villages in the area and all over Andalucia this is perhaps the most unique. Houses built into the surrounding cliffs. Its quite a sight that’s becoming more and more popular, so better to come early or late in the day to beat the crowds. If you come late, the hilly village may be a bit more challenging but it will be relatively peaceful.

Olvera – Another picturesque village, albeit this one fairly sleepy. There was quite a bit construction during our visit, so hopefully you’ll have better luck, and energy. If you are not “castled out” by this point, you may want to check out Olvera Castle for the castle itself and the splendid views of the church from a distance. And while you at it, check out Bar Pimentel for, you guessed it, Russian food, by a character owner

Caminito del Rey – The safest scariest hike in the world deserves its own post. It an hour out so you can do it as a day trip from Ronda, Malaga, Granada or on your way to one of them as we did. A bucket list item for nature lovers.

Bodegas Ramos-Paul – One of a number of wineries scattered just north of Ronda. This is an absolute stunner, managed by a husband and wife team. Wife’s family is one of the original founders of Cruzcampo, the local beer (pretty much) monopoly. Book a tour of the property, followed by a tasting of their robust, superb reds served with two to three tasty tapas. The wine is aged at least 10 years in the bottle, and costs well under $100 due to, well, not being called Rioja. A fraction of what you’ll pay in Napa for a similar experience.

Other possibilities: Cueva de la Pileta, Zahara de la Sierra, Casares…

Categories: Spain | Tags: Bodegas Ramos-Paul, Reservatauro Ronda, Ronda, Setenil de las Bodegas, travel+photography | Leave a comment

Garum 2.1 {Cordoba} – Bistronomics 101

Posted on July 2, 2024 by Ziggy

When you follow a dud with a triumph the next night, it feels particularly gratifying. Two duds in a row on vacation is hard to stomach, like watching a US presidential debate these days. Even an average meal after a dud feels incomplete. You need an epic to compensate, and that’s what we got at Garum 2.1, along with one of those rare breed waiters.

Talking about presidential debates, just like Bidenomics, Bistronomics is all about empowering from within. In Andalucia it means taking traditional dishes like Salmorejo, Rabo de toro to the next level. There’s a menu display outside of Garum (or was it inside) that upon closer inspection is actually a trophy display. A list of Garum 2.1 Tapas including traditional that received awards. As a tourist, you appreciate places that take tradition and culture seriously. You feel that throughout the the south of Spain especially thanks to places like Garum 2.1.

I chose Garum over the now closed Paco Morales bar. After taking a close look at the latter I was just not feeling it. One reason I chose Garum was the numerous mentions of one particular waiter which we happen to get as well. In Malaga we encountered our favorite overall staff of the trip, but this may be the most brilliant waiter. Humble, super polite, accommodating, and really just another level of service. Truly a rare breed.

As tourists we are hardly Salmorejo (sort of a cold tomato soup) experts, but this was pretty darn good. As with most Salmorejos we had, the flavor is fairly strong (a good thing), and overpowering most of the “toppings” (still a good thing). So they look and feel more or less like beauty contests if anything. But the flavors were prevalent with this one.

If you never had a proper Spanish Tortilla this is a good place to try it. Just the right texture. Octopus with fried pig ears over creamy potato purée was the star of show. The creamy potato was an unexpected Andalucian specialty we encountered throughout the region. The Rabo de Toro (oxtail) was something we couldnt get enough during this trip, and this award winning version might have been the best one.

A new dish on the menu was Artichoke with seafood and a superb seafood bisque I could drink like a smoothie. A rule of thumb in Andalucia is Torrija (like a bread pudding) and/or cheesecake for dessert wherever available. Here you get another great Torrija and a fine cheese mousse with fruits. Washing it all down with another excellent Verdejo. Go!

Categories: Spain | Tags: Andalucia, Garum 2.1, Garum 2.1 Cordoba, restaurants, Travel | Leave a comment

Malaga (and Area) Random

Posted on June 25, 2024 by Ziggy

I’m entitled to one lazy post per quarter, where I just show you some shaky hand pictures and call it a day. Hey, I dont make the rules. But I might as well take this opportunity to inform you that Malaga is stunning. We expected an average Spanish metropolitan with the usual array of historic sites. But instead we got a picturesque historic center that made us cancel all the historic sites we planned.

Winding, narrow streets full of monuments and striking architecture. Its a giant maze of cuteness (as much as I dislike using the word). Whenever we tried to see other areas like SoHo (dont get me started again), Malaga Park and port area, we were drawn back to the historic area like a magnet. Make sure to see the eye popping Mercado Central de Atarazanas as well. Earlier in the morning preferably as it can get crowded during lunch time.

Colomares Castle nearby is good for what it is. A good way to spend an hour or so for selfies watching people doing selfies. Its a unique little place that can be combined with Mijas. Or skip both if you are pressed for time and spend more time in Malaga. The one thing I wouldnt skip however is Caminito del Rey. One of the most spectacular, terrifying but very doable hikes you’ll ever encounter. More on that on another post.

Highly recommend the H10 Croma hotel. Best H10 so far that ticks all the boxes. I already mentioned the terrific La Cosmopolita, one of three Dani Carnero establishments, with the head chef being the former owner of Da Andrea in NYC. Dont have any other food recommendations, but the food scene seems promising. Add Malaga to the mental bucket list.

Categories: Spain | Tags: Andalucia, Malaga, Travel, travel+photography | Leave a comment

Four Solid Options in Granada

Posted on June 17, 2024 by Ziggy

I was warned that Granada isnt particularly exciting when it comes to food. So I took it as a challenge. Whether I succeeded or not, it’s debatable. After our first night, a major dud well outside the tourist route, it looked like a fail. But things got surprisingly better in the tourist filled areas. The glaring fail was not so much the dud, but not coming up with a slam dunk as every other city in Andalucía accomplished, including tiny Jaen and Ronda. So more of a testament to the other meals. But these four should still entertain your taste buds plenty.

La Botillería

A long day in the Alhambra requires a serviceable meal on a pleasant shaded sidewalk. This was more than serviceable. Good egg dishes like the one with mushrooms and potato, or eggs with fava beans and Jamon. A more elaborate Flamenquín than usual (we are not fans overall but you need to try it somewhere). The creamy risotto is a signature here and I can see why, though we were more impressed by the free paella we got with the excellent drinks.

Bar Los Diamantes

Granada is a good place to wing it, and places like Bar Los Diamantes makes it easy to do. Its a local institution that got pretty touristy the last few years. But more importantly its a respectable fast casual fried seafood specialist. A big plus is that its open early in case you want to give your tired tourist body a break one day and skip another late meal. The light and fresh fried seafood mix didnt disappoint. But add the fine Galician octopus and Gambas al Ajillo to the mix to complete this one. Come earlier to avoid the line, even though it moves fast. Communal tables add to the joy.

El Trillo

If you’ve been following me for more than 5 minutes you know that I never recommend places strictly for views, and this post is no exception. But a trip to Granada feels incomplete without a meal at a “Carmen” house overlooking Alhambra. At El Trillo, you have that, along with the option of a cozy garden over the sunnier terrace. And the food is not too shabby.

Tuna, Cadiz style, stewed with onions and potatoes was better than a similar dish we had at a more renowned place. Try some of the rice dishes, like the risotto with wild boar and mushroom, or the sensational squid ink rice with chunks of octopus hiding inside. Grilled Turbot, not quite Getaria style (if you know, you know) is expertly cooked. The only thing that didnt impress us was dessert, so hopefully you will have better luck.

Oliver

A Bourdain approved legend in tourist central that’s surprisingly feels very local. Started as a small bar before becoming a full blown dining destination, all by the same Oliver family. Start like a local with a top grade Jamon. Tomato with burrata and pesto, simple and yet very satisfying. Succulent shrimp with garlic, and even better grilled squid. People flock here for the Paellas, one of the specialties. Finish with the superb cheesecake.

Categories: Spain | Tags: El Trillo Granada, Granada, La Botillería Granada, Oliver Granada, restaurants | Leave a comment

Seville’s Feria is Bucket List Worthy

Posted on June 8, 2024 by Ziggy

So glad I didnt listen to the naysayers. Skip it, too crowded, it attracts like a bazillion thousand people, horse poop everywhere, you wont be able to get reservations. The last one almost made me reconsider and change plans. While I obviously cant compare this week to any other time, other than assume there are less people, the crowds for this New Yorker were not nearly as bad. Here’s everything you need to know about the Feria. Well, almost everything.

First, add it to the mental bucket list. A year ago I never even heard of this. But I feel like everyone should experience it at least once. Simply put, its one of the coolest things we’ve ever seen. Its Easter in New Orleans on crack. A week of celebrations, colors, horses, and a whole lot of beautiful people. Hence, we felt like we belonged.

The basics. Its a full week, normally in April (could be May in 2025). Google for the exact dates. Its held in an area well outside the city center so you can control how much Feria you want to have. At the Feria its essentially a huge scene, blocks and blocks of people celebrating inside their private “Casetas”, striped tents, where they drink and dance for much of the afternoon and night. Not to mention the parade of horses and carriages that brings the participants. And with everyone dressed in flamenco attire you essentially get the world’s largest free fashion show.

Do Plaza de España, preferably on Sunday afternoon. Even if you dont set foot at the Feria, just being in Seville that week is pretty cool. With so many well dressed participants flocking to Plaza de España, especially on the weekend after the fair start, its like being in a movie set

As for how to get there. Buses frequently run just outside Prado de San Sebastián and back. I believe there are other bus options but this is the most convenient in the center as of this writing. Its not free, but quite cheap at around a one euro p/p

Dont go in the morning. In Spain the later the better. In the early morning you’ll see Feria participants arriving back from a night full of partying. There’s not a whole lot going on there prior to noon, except cleanup.

There are public Casetas. But they are, well, public, so not nearly as attractive as the private ones. But you at least you can get a drink, and maybe some atmosphere. Try Rebujito, the official drink of the fair invented in 1985. You pay for a small pitcher.

As fun as it is you may suffer from sensory overload after a couple of hours. Go at around 5-6, before dinner. But you’ll see much of the city transform and people dressed up everywhere. One of many reasons to visit Andalucía.

Categories: Spain | Tags: feria de abril, Seville, Seville Fair, Travel, travel+photography | Leave a comment

Casa Mateos – Goldilocks Dining in Ronda

Posted on May 24, 2024 by Ziggy

There’s something to be said about Ronda that made her the first place I blogged about after we got back from Andalucia. I already sang her praises in any way I could with my limited vocabulary. Its one of those perfect tourist towns that check all the boxes as far as food, beauty, uniqueness, and size go. Not to mention the Tuscan-like surrounding area.

Normally when tourists arrive at such places, they check into the hotel (perhaps the Parador or Catalonia in this case), wash, relax, and marvel at the mesmerizing views which Ronda offers. Thats what normal people do. Me? I dropped everyone and everything, battled tourist traffic while parking the car, and speed walked the 10 minutes straight to Casa Mateos to reserve for tomorrow. The last order of business in the Ronda plan.

Pound for pound Ronda was our top food city, although our two meals there could not have been more different (the other, the legendary and astonishingly cheap El Lechuguita). But I started having my doubts about Casa Mateos when the second local we met told us we absolutely must go to Tragatá, Benito Gómez’s more affordable project after two Michelin Bardal. The saving grace was when the second local, while playing chess with my friend in Olvera, enthusiastically told us about his other favorite, Casa Mateos. Crisis averted. He even helped us with what to order.

In the two weeks of wining and dining all over Andalucia, I’ve had more refined meals. I’ve had meals where the service was more memorable, or the decor was more unique, or where we were more comfortable. But this is the one meal where everything was just right (hence goldilocks). Spot-on flavors and textures that got better and better, a fine Vermouth, wine, and just the proper service that fake laughed at all my jokes. Its a solid contender for the best overall meal of the trip, and I made sure the talented female chef in the kitchen knew that.

As for the food, the mini hamburgers with oxtail didnt look like much but they were bursting with flavor. Goat cheese salad with nuts, fruits, greens and slightly fried cheese, absolutely brilliant for a simple goat cheese salad. Our new Olvera friend best tip.

The silky smooth Partridge Pate was sublime. I was still thinking about it next day on our spectacular Caminito del Rey hike. When the guide asked the group if anyone can recognize a bird she was pointing at, I said “partridge?” The truth is I have no idea what partridge looks like except in Pate form.

Then came of course another round of Huevos Trufados, something I couldnt get enough of on this trip. Eggs, potatoes, jamon, and probably truffle oil, but it works well here. Whats not to like. This might have been the most satisfying egg/potato dish of the trip.

But it was the larger dishes where the brilliance of the chef started to come through. A superb Chicken with Fideos, a strong contender for best of show. And an expertly cooked Lomo de Vaca that had more flavor than a steak specialist we visited in Granada.

When in Andalucia the first rule of thumb is get the Cheesecake and Torrija everywhere you go. Torrija is more like a bread pudding than the common description of French Toast. Here the soft cheesecake with peach was slightly better than the chocolate Torrija, but I would try both. Go!

Categories: Spain | Tags: Best Restaurants in Ronda, Casa Mateos Ronda, restaurants, Travel | 1 Comment

48 Hours in Cordoba

Posted on May 19, 2024 by Ziggy

It took me roughly 48 seconds to realize that a day trip to Cordoba just wont do. Between the main monuments, patios, the various distinct neighborhoods, and nearby sites, even 48 hours felt like scratching the surface. The 22nd largest city in Spain has more UNESCO sites (4) than any city in the world. Remarkable considering you have cities like Paris and Rome in the mix.

The city is full of layers showcasing its rich Roman, Jewish, and Islamic past. For much of the middle ages, it was one of the most important cities in the world. But even some of the newer parts show plenty of charm. This is not a complete guide, but more or less what we did, arriving from Seville, with Granada next. Car as always, helps.

On the way from Seville you can stop at Castillo Almodovar del Rio, only 30 minutes from Cordoba. This is another Game of Thrones site, one of many in Spain. The castle is part Casterly Rock, but mainly Highgarden, the Tyrell’s house. Just dont make the mistake of coming within an hour before closing. If they show they close at 2:30 PM, it means they lock the gate at 1:30 PM. But even being on top, walking around the castle is pretty cool. Got plenty of nice drone shots.

Check into H10 Palacio Colomera. One of many new H10 properties sweeping the country. Beautiful building overlooking the picturesque Plaza de las Tendillas (busy during the day but quiet at night. Soundproof windows). Other than an unexpected 2am wake up call and some smelly bathroom issues that can probably be sorted out, this was a fine stay.

The surrounding area is a major shopping hub. Parking is advised to be reserved ahead at Parking Calle Sevilla 5. Just Google your drive to the parking garage to know what to expect (easy, but still), and pick up your much deserved snack at La Tranquera Solo Empanadas right near the garage.

I cant think of a better welcome to patio obsessed Cordoba than a visit to Palacio de Viana. A 15th century Palace where the spectacular patios and gardens didnt seem to end (I discovered my limits). 12 distinct gardens that will give you plenty of ideas for your spring planting. The palace was occupied by various families, last one being Marqueses de Viana until 1980, hence the name.

Explore what I call the upper Centro, the area around Jardines de la Merced. The atmospheric squares around Monumento a Manolete, and Cristo de los Faroles, and the stunning facade of Palacio de la Merced, a former convent. Time for a break at La Bendita Locura for Conservas, mini sandwiches and your 15th Tinto de Verano of the trip.

After a power nap, you are ready to be introduced to the old town and the Juderia. You’ll spent some quality time together the next 24 hours. Dinner CAN be at El Rincon De Carmen. While the food didnt exactly rock my world, this is one of the most popular… you guessed it.. patios in the area and my group enjoyed it overall. Try the Huevos Rotos con Jamón. Stronger recommendations coming up.

Start the next day with a morning tour of the Juderia with a Professional Jew (his words), Jorge Gershon of Cordoba Jewish Tours. Jorge is a walking encyclopedia, but also fun and energetic. You’ll get a better understanding of the impact of Maimonides, and the complex and rich history of Jews in Spain. Seeing one of the most important Synagogues in Spain, and Casa de Sefarad which usually comes with a timed surprise are just some of the highlights.

You’ll find beautiful patios all over the city, especially in early May during the festival, but the one area that’s particularly known for them is San Basilio. Even if none of the owners open their doors, its a pleasant neighborhood for a short stroll. But its approaching lunch time and you know who is getting hangry.

Lunch is just across the river since you’ll want to check out the Roman Bridge anyway. Take your time. Bar los Romerillos is open, but the kitchen doesnt open until 1:30. Thats how you know this spot is for locals. If you are early, hang tight and have your 20th Tinto de Verano. Then try the Cogollos Ajillo. If it looks like simple lettuce, it is. But trust me. Also try the Carrillada (pork cheek).

Its almost time for your 3:30 slot at the great Mezquita. This is one of the reasons you are in Cordoba. A Mosque-Cathedral masterpiece, and one of the most unique monuments in Spain. No pictures will properly prepare you, at least as far as the depth goes. Dont miss the Mihrab, which usually faces Mecca these days, but older mosques including this one, not so much. More of historical differences in opinion.

You need a good rest prior to this dinner. The brilliant Garum 2.1 will delight all your senses, with the aid of a rare breed waiter (assuming he’ll be there). Dont skip the Octopus with fried pig ears over creamy potato purée. And try some of the award winning tapas like the Salmorejo, and oxtail. Advanced reservations of course required.

Time to say goodbye, and hello to Granada or your next destination. If Granada than a slight detour to Jaén is worthwhile. The EVOO capital of Spain is quite the looker and well outside the tourist route. You got a castle towering right above it offering spectacular views. But the biggest case for Jaén is that it evolved into a food destination. Check out MangasVerdes. More on both Jaén and MangasVerdes to come.

Categories: Spain | Tags: Cordoba, Cordoba itinerary, Cordoba Spain, Travel, travel+photography, Two days in Cordoba | Leave a comment

La Cosmopolita – A Malaga Gem With a NY Connection

Posted on May 10, 2024 by Ziggy

They really love their long names in Spain. Officially on Google its “La Cosmopolita Malagueña | Dani Carnero | Restaurant in Malaga”. After getting a strong worded letter from Google about the name and use of special characters they decided to shorten their next project to “La Cosmo Malagueña | Dani Carnero | Restaurant in Malaga”. Yes, these are two different restaurants in the heart of Malaga’s vivacious center, and I sampled one of them. The long one. It was so good, I just had to come back the next day. Well, sort of…

Malaga’s center will make you cancel all museums, castles, cathedral, anything involved walking uphill, and beach plans. Especially if this is your last leg of a long trip. Its a maze of cuteness. The architecture, the shops, the scene, the art, the fashion, will make you want to walk and rewalk the same streets just in case you missed something. Exploring other neighborhoods like Soho was interesting but felt like a waste of time for us tourists. Note to the Urban planners of the world: Unless you have a street named Houston, stop calling your neighborhoods Soho and Noho. Its getting old, and silly.

La Cosmopolita could not have been in a more touristy area. Its entirely surrounded by Tapas Bars and all sorts of other food options. For the casual diners who dont necessarily need to have the best Ajoblanco in the city, but just want to sit down somewhere and people watch, there are options galore. But for the rest of us freaks who derive much of the pleasure from months of research, you want to check out La Cosmopolita, and its Michelin approved sisters. While not every dish worked, the ones that did more than made up for it.

Lets start with the one clear dud. Crab omelette. Reviewers made this a must get, and since I love crab and everything egg, I just had to sample it. But it just didnt work for us, especially while smothered with that crab sauce. The profile flavors of fishy seafood and eggs in general should not be combined, unless you posses the creativity to make it work.

Moving on to the hits. Mollete de Atún, one of their specialties is like the best raw tuna sandwich you’ll ever find. Mollete translates to a muffin (like an English Muffin I suppose), but its actually IGP protected buns from Antequera. Its a glorious, well balanced combination. Another hit, perhaps the big one came in the form of steak tartare. Pure joy with every morsel. I dont recall eating tartare this good even in Paris recently.

The Tuna, Cadiz style, comes like a stew with onions was serviceable. Not something I’d order again, but I do like this style which we enjoyed numerous times on this trip. Payoya cheesecake to finish off was sensational. One of the better cheesecakes of the trip (we had quite a bit). Love that funk from the Payoya goat cheese. Didnt try more, since some of the us got sick and stayed in the hotel room. So it was an impromptu date between Mrs Z and I on our first evening in Malaga.

But that’s not the end of the story. This was by far our favorite staff of the trip. Not due to their over the top professionalism, but goofiness. From the waiter that decided to grab my phone to take a better picture (he didnt), to the British woman, and the chubby jokester who brings the Panna Cotta to the table next to us while shaking it to show how it jiggles, its the type of dysfunctional family you want every restaurant to have. By the end of all this (span of two days) the chubby waiter hugged me more than Mrs Z hugged me all year. TMI? Not really.

Why did I go there again the next day you may be asking. Not to eat. When Mr Chubby (we were having so much fun that we forgot to formally introduce each other) learned where I was from, he replied “Oh, our chef is from NYC. He used to own a restaurant called Da Andrea”, 😲😲😲. “but he’s not here today. Come back tomorrow”. If you’ve been following me for a long time, you’d know that Da Andrea used to be my favorite restaurant in NYC years ago. I spent birthdays there, among other functions. I was introduced to proper Italian food, and even some of my favorite wine at Da Andrea. But I never really knew the owners, who apparently sold Da Andrea not too long ago. Needless to say coming back the next day and conversing with the man, the legend was a trip highlight.

Categories: Spain | Tags: Best Food in Malaga, La Cosmopolita, La Cosmopolita Malaga, restaurants, Travel | Leave a comment

This is Alhambra

Posted on May 7, 2024 by Ziggy

The second most visited site in Spain after La Sagrada Familia is a bucket list item you didnt know you have. It’s the first thing you have to book when planning your Andalucia trip, and it’s the main reason visitors flock to Granada. When we visited in mid April, it was sold out through May according to our trusted guide Asier Garmendia.

No pictures, videos, stories, will properly prepare you for the Alhambra. You will mostly see pictures of what looks like a fortress from a distance. But what you’ll find inside is an entire city dating back to medieval Islam. The only such preserved city in the world that survived 800 years of earthquakes. Constructed by multiple generations of Sultans (Nasrid Dynasty) between 1238 and 1492, its the last Muslim stronghold to rule Spain.

Its essentially a combination of Moorish fortresses, palaces, courtyards, and gardens + one palace by a Spanish ruler, Emperor Charles V, for good measure. It’s something straight out of Game of Thrones. Although unlike other palaces and castles in the area (Seville’s Alcázar, Castillo Almodovar del Rio), Alhambra wasn’t featured in GOT. Other than some documentaries, Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown, and some old movies nothing was filmed here. Getting a permit must be pretty tough these days. It took a small miracle for GOT to get the OK from the Alcázar.

Allow 3-4 hours to see it so bring your favorite Granola bars from home, and/or those oily salty almonds you’ll see in markets and stores. It’s one site best appreciated with a guide, and Asier is your man. He will take care of the tickets, and he knows this complex inside out, besides possessing a wealth of information. You’ll see how math, poetry, water and time play such key roles with the architecture. You’ll hear stories that would make Telenovela producers take notes.

The gardens of Generalife alone are worth the price of admission. Ever heard of the Julio Iglesias Rose? You can find it here. Any Washington Irving fans here? I didnt think so. He was inspired to write Tales of the Alhambra while living inside it. People live inside Alhambra even today. Remarkable considering the 6000 guests who come here every day.

Simply put this place is something else. Unlike anything we’ve ever seen. It makes you wish you were a better photographer, or in my case, a photographer. Add it to the top half of the mental list. Somewhere between Český Krumlov and Buenos Aires.