Lower East Side

Best Restaurants in Manhattan

Well, the people of Reddit have spoken, after putting together the Brooklyn picks. For Manhattan I grouped them instead of creating another map (Brooklyn is huge). And just like with Brooklyn, there are certain areas as you can see where I dont spend much time. UWS and UES are just too far, and not as interesting, while Midtown East and Times Square are hotel/tourist heavy, with minimal parking, and more suited for business lunches. Rarely anything interesting opens there.

I also think its time to retire the Z-List. I’ve been managing it for many years, and I’ve had many people commenting on how useful it is. But a list of 30 that covers a large area, no matter how often updated, can run its course. I know some rely on it, but I think its better to rely on its Brooklyn and Manhattan list replacements at this point. I will leave the Z-List up for a while to give people a chance to say goodbye 😉

I will update these lists often. This one is more or less from south to north, with the borders stretched on occasion to fit everyone…

Tribeca

Nish Nush – One of the best if not the best Falafels in the city for a few decades now.

Au Cheval – Go for the sick burger, stay for the Mac & Cheese.

LES / Chinatown

Ginger and Lemongrass – Pretty much for the spicy lemongrass soup.

Shu Jiao Fu Zhou – Hard to beat for a quick cheap dumplings and noodles.

Spicy Village – Slightly uncomfortable but exceptional Chinese. Try the dumplings and Big Tray of Chicken

Uncle Lou’s – Got a little too touristy lately but this is where I’d go for Cantonese right now

Katz’s Deli – The Pastrami Temple. Mega touristy for a reason

Corima – Affordable, superb creative Mexican

Nolita / Little Italy

Thai Diner – Super popular for a reason. Try to come at Off-peak hours

Wayan – Vongerichten Jr doing all kinds of Indonesian/French magic

19 Cleveland – Excellent all around Israeli

Tomiño Taberna Gallega – NYC’s best if not only pure Galician. Meaning get the Octopus

Figo il Gelato – Fig/Ricotta Gelato when fresh is hard to beat

Soho

Raoul’s – A celebrated old French Bistro.

San Carlo Osteria Piemonte – Almost does Italy’s top food region justice. Order from the Piemonte menu

Rivareno Gelato – I’m an ice cream junky and this is my favorite Gelato these days. Especially appreciate the northern flavors

Pinch Chinese – Outstanding elevated Chinese. A favorite since they opened pretty much

Greenwich Village

Anton’s – I follow certain chefs I admire, until they call the cops 😉 Nick Anderer (Mailino, Marta) did an amazing job curating a great menu at Anton’s. He’s now doing his magic at his second, Leon’s (great lunch so far). Love the brunches here too.

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele – While not exactly the same as the Napoli original, a fancy pizzeria with a full menu

Jeju Noodle Bar – I preferred this Korean before the Michelin star, but its still outstanding

Balaboosta – The flagship of one of the most celebrated Israeli chefs.

Song’ e Napule – If I have to pick just one pizzeria

Leitao – Superb Portuguese. One of my favorite discoveries in the last few years

Via Carota – Possibly the most well rounded Italian we have. Popular for a reason

Dell’anima – Italian in West Village is having a moment. Just moved back after many years deep in Hell’s Kitchen. Exceptional pastas and chicken.

East Village

Foxface Natural (Temporarily closed) – From a tiny Sandwich shop to creative Michelin style dining.

Hearth – A reliable old timer and the creator of Brodo.

Fiaschetteria “Pistoia” – The closest we have to eating in a Tuscan village

Carnitas Ramirez – Possibly best tacos in NYC today.

Danny & Coop’s Cheesesteaks – Yes, worth the hype.

Spice Brothers – When a spice master opens a fast food Middle Eastern. Worth checking out

Nowon – Our go-to for a simple burger, rice cakes and more.

Claude – Josh Pinsky is another chef I follow for a while, from the Momofuku days in this case.

Flatiron / Gramercy

L’Express – One of the most reliable Brasseries in the city, aging like a fine Bordeaux

Olle – No shortage of great Korean in the area, but you’ll be hard pressed to find better Galbi Jjim

Ulivo – Nice all around Italian, good pizza, and a plethora of fresh pastas by a talented Sardinian

Milu – Fast food Chinese like no other.

Rezdora – Pricy high caliber Italian, especially the pastas, inspired by Emilia Romagna

Chelsea

Jun-Men Ramen – Good ramen but even better non Ramen items like the Mazemen and wings.

Tia Pol / Txikito / Salinas – Three excellent Spanish all timers, near each other. All quite different. I frequent Tia Pol more only because its more accessible.

Hell’s Kitchen

Frena – Elevated middle eastern by a seasoned chef, now owner. Taboon 2.0 for those who remember.

Chalong Southern Thai – Probably best Thai in Hell’s Kitchen today, if not Manhattan.

Danji – Former Michelin Korean. Nice comeback story after a devastating fire

Chi – Solid, stylish Szechuan with a twist

Don Antonio – Legit Neapolitan pies. Just about as good as it gets.

Pure Thai Cookhouse – Legendary Thai in Thai heavy Hell’s Kitchen

UWS

Pig and Khao – Used to frequent the LES location. Same menu as far as I know.

Categories: Chelsea, Chinatown, East Village, Gramercy, Flatiron, Lower East Side, Midtown West, New York City, SoHo, NoHo, Nolita | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Ginger and Lemongrass – Pig and Khao Light

Yes, I hate the title too. A successful Southeast Asian restaurant owned by a woman from, you guessed it, Prague, offering some of the best and boldest soups in the business, among other deliciousness. And this no name blogger calls it P&K light. The nerve. The menu doesnt even resemble P&K. In fact I cant think of one dish they have in common. So why does it feel like P&K light so much.

The story, the location, the cuisine. Similarly to Leah Cohen, Petra Rickman also spent significant time in Southeast Asia learning the craft of cooking. They both own two Southeast Asian restaurants (Rickman recently opened a Mexican place called Taco Azul). Rickman’s Manhattan restaurant and Cohen’s flagship are very close to each other. Plenty of similarities, with Leah Cohen being much more famous, and P&K more daring and elevated, hence “Light”

That’s not to say Ginger and Lemongrass is a lesser version of Pig and Khao. The two are still very different. Ginger and Lemongrass is more accessible, offering an ambitious, yet simple menu, with a killer soup lineup. Just about everything I had at Ginger and Lemongrass over the years was executed well, especially one particular soup.

In the early days, when G&L opened 6 years ago, to me it was a great place to go for soup. A comfortable place you go to clean your sinuses when its freezing outside. I quickly settled on the Spicy Coconut Lemongrass soup that fits my taste like the 10 year old shoes you only wear when no one is around because it has giant holes. It has just the kind of balance you look for in a spicy Asian soup. Get it with Five Spice Beef Brisket or chicken.

It feels like G&L has become more well rounded over the years. Many reviewers rave about the spring and summer rolls but its something I rarely order anywhere. The wings here are serviceable. Could have been more tender and juicy, but the sweet and spicy sauce make up for much of it.

In addition to a whole lineup of rolls, sandwiches, salads, they now have Thai style curries of all colors with your choice of protein. The green curry is a little thicker than the typical Thai curry, but the flavor is spot on. But my favorite discovery last time was the Shaken Beef (Bo luc lac). I order Bo luc lac pretty much wherever I see it in Vietnamese places, and this is a good version. Nice and complex with that pepper lime dressing, onions, and potatoes. Even the rice they serve with the dishes is delicious.

The Thai Iced Tea here will get you hooked from the start but it’s a bit heavy with the condensed milk. Overall, light or not, Ginger and Lemongrass is a solid choice for lunch, dinner, first date, Bar Mitsvah, and post election blues. Go!

Ginger and Lemongrass
153 Rivington St (Lower East Side)
Recommended Dishes: Wings, Spicy Coconut Lemongrass soup, Shaken Beef, Green curry

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Pig & Khao – Dont Overlook Brunch

Pig & Khao

Ah, brunch, my least favorite meal of the day. Its neither here or there, it requires drinking earlier than I’m used to (yes I have rules), and more than half of the days it doesnt even exist. On average I do brunch once every two months or so while for many Manhattanites and Brooklynites its a weekly routine. But as the saying goes, I don’t always do brunch, but when I do, I prefer something interesting like Breakfast by Salt’s Cure, any of these five, and now Pig & Khao.

Pig and Khao is one of those places where I avoided brunch for too long because the dinner menu is just so darn good. But upon further inspection, the current brunch menu includes P&K greatest hits like the best in NYC Sizzling Sisig, and Khao Soi. Not to mention the newest of the classics, the addictive Chili Pan Mee, one of the most satisfying bowl of noodles in NYC today.

Leah Cohen who spent years in the Philippines as a kid, and as an adult can cook Southeast Asian food with the best of them. She owes much of her success to her dad who she lost during the early stages of the pandemic. Being a contestant on Top Chef season 5 helped kick her career that includes a book and numerous Food Network appearances. She opened Pig & Khao in 2012, and Piggyback right before the pandemic.

While I cant make reservations at places like Laser Wolf, I Sodi, Raoul’s, and many more, its a small mystery how easy it is to reserve Pig & Khao. Even though its packed every time I go there. You get a sense that the vast majority of patrons are locals, but there’s an easy way to confirm this. 1400 Google reviews vs 175 Trip Advisor (mainly tourists). Compared to say Joe Allen (950, 1100).

Pig & Khao

As some of you know, Pig and Khao has been a staple on the Z-List from day one. Probably a top 3 in the entire city for me. But according to EWZ historians I havent written anything about it since December 2018. Not much has changed other than one particular dish elevating itself to the top of the ranking bypassing the awesome Sisig.

That dish is the mentioned Chili Pan Mee. A seemingly simple dry Ramen noodles with a sick pork ‘ragu’. Its incredibly well balanced with just enough pleasant heat. The slow poached egg probably adds more to the dish than the occasional crispy anchovy, but as a whole its pretty perfect. A must among musts.

Another must for brunch is the… wait for it… French Toast. You may be thinking, why would you ever order French Toast at a place like this. The answer is, think of it as dessert. Southeast Asian sweets are much less inspiring than the savory items IMO. We often leave places without trying any or disappointed that the sticky rice with coconut and mango isnt on the same level as Pure Thai Cookhouse. But leave it to the P&K crew to come up with a superb sweet French Toast with caramelized bananas and super addictive salted caramel sauce.

While not an absolute must like the others the Sissling Corned Beef Hash was better than I thought it would be. Once you mix the egg with everything else you get a killer peppery combination. And a good value at $18. With the dishes ranging from $15-20 the whole menu felt like fantastic value in today’s NYC. Stop laughing, Queens residents.

68 Clinton St

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Wayla – The Good, The Bad, and the Branzino

Wayla lobster pad thaiWayla, Wayan, Wayo.  Confusing times for Google these days.  Most confusing since Ilili, Leyla, Lilia, and Laila.  I’m not making any of this up.  These are all names of restaurants in NYC that sound and spell alike, and some of them opened around the same time.  Naming your restaurant is as important as naming your child.  I remember spending countless of bathroom hours looking at baby names before finally finding the one that clicked.  Its such a great feeling!  Until she says no and puts you in your place.  “Ugly Baby” should be a lesson to all future owners as that perfect name that is both meaningful, and easy to remember.

Restaurant owners should get into the habit of Googling the names before settling.  Wayla opened close to a year ago, yet when I Google it I still get “did you mean Wayan”.  Maybe Google simply figured me out, and tried to warn me.  Its not far fetched AI to build an algorithm that will match you with the correct restaurants.  But there’s not much AI can do to stop them from over-frying the noodles.  For now.

Wayla, considered by some one of the best Thai in the city, still feels super buzzy today.  Hence difficult to reserve, even though their website hints the opposite.  “We accept a limited amount of reservations each evening and welcome walk-ins”.  What that really means is.. “you see those two at the uncomfortable bar that looked like they havnt seen each other in decades and have much to talk about?  As soon as they are done, we’ll text you.  Meanwhile, go to REI and buy something you dont need”.  I was surprised to learn that all tables are reserved, not just a select amount.Wayla Moo Sarong

Much as been said and written about the Moo Sarong, fried noodle-wrapped meatballs that requires a unique set of skills possessed by only one person in the city.  His name is Liam John Neeson.  Its essentially one noodle wrapped around a pork meatball and if the noodle breaks in the process, you need to start all over.  In Thailand this forgotten dish got a life boost after it was featured on a soap opera, but only the wealthy can afford to have this labor intensive dish.  And here we are, eating it in a Lower East Side basement for 9 bucks.  Spoiler alert:  Its not good.

Its tough to criticize an appetizer that costs $9, but I’ll do my best.  The balls are fried to such a crisp that none of the ingredients shine.  It doesnt taste like anything really.  After the meal, I looked at Insta to see if the colors matched my darker than expected, and saw 50 shades of brown.  I can only guess ours spent an extra 30 seconds in the fryer.  Its $1.50 a pop (you get 6 balls).  For $1.50 you can get a nice plate of dumplings in every corner nearby.  The Chicken Satay ($15) special however was more like it.  Bulky, meaty skewers with an abundant, nicely balanced peanut sauce.Wayla Branzino

The crab fried rice ($24) is one of the better ones I’ve had.  Heaps of chunky crab, albeit as expected for the price of a main course.  The problem with this dish is that there are other attractive noodle/rice dishes on the menu forcing a carb fest.  But I’ll make it easier for you.  Skip the other signature, Lobster Pad Thai ($36) .  The sweet, peanuty flavor of the noodles just doesnt play well with the other dishes and its just an ok use of expensive lobster.  Its a far cry from Wayan’s terrific lobster noodles a couple of blocks away.  Should have listened to Google I suppose.

The saving grace was a fried Branzino ($31).  Normally I wouldnt order fried Branzino in any restaurant but the preparation here was intriguing.  The fish is deboned, flash fried, and cut into cubes.  While I found it much more aromatic than Mrs Z (meaning the fish, not her.  She smelled like Orchids and white Alba truffles).  The fresh herbs and spices was more like the best of Thai on a plate.  The Mango Mousse Sticky Rice was good but could have used some cowbell.  By that I mean something like coconut milk to give it another layer.

Wayla
100 Forsyth St (Basement, Grand/Broome), Lower East Side
Rating: One Z (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that
Recommended Dishes: Branzino, Chicken Satay

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New Essex Market’s Best Bites

IMG_1435I won’t lie to you people.  I rarely do.  When I first saw the new Essex Market, it felt like I just discovered a new Foodie paradise as the NY Post put it.  A mini Chelsea Market without the crowds, was the first thing that came to mind.  A striking contrast to the old Essex Market which felt sad and unwelcoming at times.  But around 10 visits, a few hits and too many misses later I come back crawling to the Chelsea Market zoo asking for forgiveness, and a Currywurst.

It turned into a strange love hate relationship.  I keep gravitating to Essex Market, so there’s something definitely there.  Mad kudos to the designers of the space.  Its pleasing to the eye, comfortable, and the sitting area on top is just pure joy when compared to other food courts.  Its part of a new complex that also includes a swanky new Regal with reclined seats and giant food trays. I never understood movie theaters that serve food or food friendly theaters like this.  My enjoyment of watching a movie while eating somehow never transferred to watching a movie while sitting next to a total stranger munching on chicken wings and almost spilling his coke on me three times.

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But while the Essex Market vendors wouldnt really fair well at Chelsea Market, there’s definitely a very interesting variety of eats.  Some of the old vendors are back, and some new ones joined, and still joining (Another section will eventually open looks like).  Here are some of the best bites I tried so far.

Bourekas at Zerza – I’ll give them a pass for serving it a little cool in the middle.  The flavors are there and its what you normally would expect from a well crafted Bourekas.  Loaded with Spinach, raisins, feta, and pine nuts.  A sound competitor to the Bourekas queen in Hell’s Kitchen, Gazalas.

Fried Chicken at Eat Gai – Come for Gai, stay for fried chicken.  Its known for Khao Man Gai which is a Hainaese chicken and rice dish that is popular in Thailand as well.  Might be an acquired taste or a cultural thing as it just didnt do it for me.  The fried chicken on the other hand, marinated with Turmeric was more like it, especially the first time I had it.

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The Nordic Sandwich at Nordic Preserves – One of the old guards from the old Essex Street Market (Note they dropped the “Street” at the new place).  Its a Scandinavian cured and smoked fish specialist that also crafts a couple of sandwiches like the outstanding The Nordic with Creme Fraiche, Lumpfish Caviar, Pico de Gallo in a Pain D’avignon olive Baguette.  Or better yet, buy their Pastrami lox, and enjoy it with a fresh bagel with cream cheese.

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Croissant Bread Pudding w/ Crème Anglaise at Pain D’avignon – Bread Puddings in NYC rarely come close to something you can find in every corner in New Orleans.  Its often too dry, too bready or just missing any zing.   Leave it to baking legend Pain D’avignon to correct that with a perfectly balanced, apple filled (on this occasion) bread pudding that comes with a creamy Crème Anglaise on the side.  So you can pour as much of it as you want (suggested amount:  all of it)

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Banana Ice Cream at LES Ice Cream Factory – Not sure if its the best way to build a brand, but the folks from The Original Chinatown Ice Cream Factory opted to give themselves a different name here.  I suppose, and this is just a crazy guess, that the reason is that this is not in Chinatown.  That didnt stop many other businesses however.  Not every flavor works (had better Horchata in NYC) here, but the banana does.

Also Consider:  Chicken Shawarma at Samesa, Arancini at Arancini Bros, Empanadas at Dominican Cravings, Salted Caramel Panna Cotta at Mille Nonne.

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Pig and Wow!

Southeast Asia is a wonderful place for the culinary minds out there.  But so is Southeast Manhattan.  Specifically the square of Lower East Side, East Village, Nolita and Noho that incorporates a high concentration of chef driven joints including some of the city’s most prominent Asian.  But when zooming in on a small area around Clinton street in LES, you will find “Little Judasia” – Jews doing kick ass Asian.

Leading the charge in Little Judasia you got Leah Cohen (Pig and Khao), Ivan Orkin (Ivan Ramen), and Petra Rickman (Ginger and Lemongrass).  Ok, I’m not too sure about the Czech born Rickman, though Rickman is a common Jewish name.  We need a confirmation or a conversion in this case.  But this is already far and away more interesting than Little Italy to the west.Pig and Khao

Pig and Khao simply put is one of my favorite restaurants in the entire city.  Although I’ve written about P&K before and added it enthusiastically to the Z-List, I’ve never actually written a post about it.  That enthusiasm is slightly marred by the fact that after many flawless meals, the only hiccups came on the last visit when I introduced P&K to my oldest.  But I find myself mentioning it more often than any other place these days.  Especially to those embracing the bolder flavors, or want to experience something new.

Here’s a list of my current favorite dishes

Thai Mushroom Salad – The unsung hero.  With all the attention that the Sisig and Khao Soi are getting, to me its this shroom/shrimp/chili concoction that is perhaps the best dish here.  Its also one of the spiciest, so pair it with the most coconutty coconut rice out there.

Pig and Khao Mushroom SaladSizzling Sisig – The most celebrated dish here, and perhaps the most famous Sisig in a city not famous for Sisigs.  Reason being part taste, part novelty, part Instagram.  But it is very good and something I order almost every time. Its not a traditional, but third generation Sisig that includes all pigs head parts (cheeks, snout, etc).Pig and Khao Sizzling Soi

Khao Soi – Exceptional depth in this one.  Hard to say how it compares to Ugly Baby and Pam Real Thai as I havent had them recently but this is excellent.Pig and Khao Khao Soi

Malaysian Butter Prawns –  Five huge, plump, perfectly cooked prawns that are clean and easy to peel unlike similar dishes out there.  Its ladened with this crumby buttery mixture that is so addictive we it with a spoonPig and Khao Shrimp

Grilled Sirloin – This is just a perfectly seared Sirloin but as with so many southeast Asian joints comes with a playful set.  You get cabbage and a spicy Isan fish sauce to practice your taco making skills.Pig and Khao Sirloin

Malaysian Fried Chicken – I’m including this even though the dish went from a 9 to a 7 on my last visit when the bird perhaps spent a minute or two longer in the sin bin.  But when its on, its as good as any fried chicken dish you will ever have in NYC.Pig and Khao Malaysian Chicken

Thai-Lote – A side of grilled corn with sambal butter, toasted coconut flakes and kaffir.  Get this!

Good but would not get again – Ribs and Halo Halo

Pig and Khao
68 Clinton St (Rivingston/Stanton), Lower East Side
Rating: 3 Z’s (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that.
Recommended Dishes: All of the above

Pig and Khao Corn

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Wildair – Lower! East Side

Wildair SkateCulinary Slowdown.  Its a real first world problem.  Its when a food enthusiast wakes up one day realizing he hasnt eaten anything noteworthy in days or weeks.  Its when a food writer suddenly experiences difficulties coming up with new ideas and writes only about pizza for two weeks!  Its when you sit in a restaurant with your spouse after a mini hiatus and the spouse gives you that “you know, we could have been anywhere” look.  I’ve been there before.

Usually during a culinary slowdown you start to ask questions.  What’s the meaning of all this?  What’s the meaning of life?  Is there a point to this blog?  When I read reviews of restaurants during my travels, I always wonder how do restaurant owners dont end up in therapy.  And then I remind myself that I myself may contribute to the therapy bill.  Who am I to tell Mr owner that his product is shit after one visit.  This is a tough business, and way too many variables involved in a good vs bad meal starting with tastes and expectations.  But it’s 2017, the age of Trip Advisor and Yelp.  And the owners need to… well, own it.  Hopefully at the very least, some look at these as constructive criticism

Wildair

It started so promising.  A little suspicious, but promising.  No waits or difficulties getting a table at a prime time of 7 pm on a Saturday.  And then there was the space under the high top table (like a drawer without the drawer) for the camera.  I suppose you can put forks, napkins and purses in there as well, but it was the big boy camera that finally, finally found its space, a home,

Another variable was the three inches separating us from the guests next to us.  You combine tables into one long commune table, separate one table by three inches, and BAM!  You got privacy.  As a result it was a tale of two hearing aids.  Loud but manageable first hour when the people next to us had a simple conversation.  But when 4 girls, who managed to only communicate by shouting showed up…  It was like passing by a busy construction site, getting whistled at by the friendly workers, and this time sticking around for a good hour.

With all these accolades, its tough to keep expectations unblemished.  Bon Apettit named Wildair the #8 new restaurant in the country in 2016.  But midway in, when the squash blossoms came in overcooked into a messy mush, it started going south.  We did enjoy the seemingly famous, clean tasting, Beef Tartare.  But presentation and flavors were short of similar tartares, some in the immediate area (Estela).  The combination of Littleneck clams, with not too fishy XO, and almond broth worked well.  But there was just not enough of it to fully enjoy between two people.Wildair Tartare

I expected more from another menu staple, the Littlegem Lettuce.  It was citrusy alright but not balanced and flavorful enough to make you forget that you are eating lettuce.  The Skate came oddly covered with the cabbage instead of the other way around.  Perhaps if they can think of a way to open that cabbage like a flower when the plate arrives.  This was one of the better dishes, especially aided by the Sorana Beans.  But a far cry from another Skate by a Contra product (alumni), Gloria in Hell’s Kitchen.

The closest to a saving grace was the crispy warm house bread.  With just about every dish we turned to the bread for comfort and satisfaction.  To me its the true must.  The Chocolate hazelnut tart was simple and fine, while the Panna cotta and green apple granita was too frozen and not so fine.  Combine some granita with the tart and you got something.

Wildair
142 Orchard St (Rivington/Delancey), Lower East Side
Rating: One Z (out of 4)
Stars range from Good to Exceptional. Simple as that
Recommended Dishes: Bread, Clams, Beef Tartare, Skate

 

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Ivan Firing on All Cylinders

Ivan Ramen Chicken PaitanI dont usually update a place this soon, but this is kinda important after yet another fine meal at Ivan Ramen LES.  Weather is getting chillier (or seemed to be a few weeks ago at least), and I cant think of a better way to start Ramen season.  The Chicken Paitan at Ivan is not the Ramen dish that made Ivan famous, but to me it’s right up there with NYC’s best at the moment.  As I described 6 months ago when it came out, “the richness and deliciousness of a Tonkotsu without the heaviness”.

A corn on a cob dish always gets my attention, and this one proved to be a wowzer.   Its Miso roasted with bonito flakes and some sort of Japanese magic dust sprinkled.  The fried chicken, brined perhaps, is another exceptional one.  The Coney Island Tofu with that miso mushroom chili has made it’s triumphant return to the menu.  Magnifique as always.  As is the Triple pork, triple garlic Mazemen (brothless ramen) which has been on the menu since day 1 but somehow eluded me all this time.  Being featured on Netflix’s Chef’s Table hasnt made it easy, but reservations are doable.  Go!

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The NYC Trip Report that Left Me Speechless

Annisa SquidAnd starving.  Like, literally starving to death.  There was a point where I realized that the safest time to read Aynat’s (Trip Advisor handle) daily accounts of her NY adventure is between 6 and 6:45, before my stomach wakes up from its beauty rest.  This was not Aynat’s first trip to NYC, and she already logged countless of great meals under her belt.  But this time it became apparent after day two (out of 27) that included a marathon meal at Ko (the best marathon there is), that Aynat picked up her game to almost unreachable levels.  From my vantage point (living room, transferring to kitchen soon) this is the Michael Jordan of trip reports.  The basketball player, not the chef.  Although the chef is pretty darn good too (miss Rosemary’s in Vegas dearly).

I read trip reports on various boards like Chowhound and Trip Advisor on occasion, and it usually doesn’t take long to get a sense of the due diligence involved.  Aynat on the other hand, essentially has redefined food research, and is probably already planning her next trip to NYC (best medicine to post vacation blues..  Alcohol.  Second best.. rebook).  This was 27 days of eating bliss and blissful eating.  After her trip was over, I figured it would be criminal not to write something about this on EWZ, but the challenge was how.  So I asked Aynat to compile a list of her favorite dishes of the trip and here are the results.  Top 20 dishes (comments are mine) with pictures whenever I could find them

Momofuku Ko – Chef’s Multi Course Tasting Menu.  Its impossible to pick one dish from this 18 dish ecstasy.  Its like asking Evander Holyfield which Illegitimate child is his favorite.  Perhaps the best eating experience NYC has to offer at the momenyMomofuku Ko Razor clams

Bowery Meat Company – Bowery Steak with Salsa Verde, Whipped Potato.  The ribeye cap, arguably the cows most delicious part is rolled into this hockey puck of dreams. One of the most delicious steaks I ever ate.  Aynat agrees.Bowery Meat Company Bowery Steak

Marta – Carbonara Pizza with Potato, Guanciale, Black Pepper and Egg.  I’ve watched Nick Anderer try to perfect this Roman beaut over the first few months, until he settled on arguably the best white pie NY has to offer.   Aynat also liked the Rabbit meatballs very much.Marta Patate alla Carbonara

Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Bistro –  Oxtail Fried Rice with daikon, Shiitake & Bone marrow. Aynat hesitated at first with this one.  “Why is he suggesting Fried Rice, in a hotel no less.”  Easily made the top dishes mark, along with the brilliantly simple sautéed squid (Ika shuga)Blue Ribbon Sushi Oxtail Fried Rice

The Marshal – Wood Oven Roasted Meatloaf stuffed with Mozzarella, Squash Carrots and Kale.  Sometimes a man just wants to eat meatloaf. Apparently same rules apply for women.  One of Hell’s Kitchen’s hidden gems, dishing out proper farm to belly American classics.The Marshal - Meatloaf

Annisa – Barbecue Squid with Thai Basil and Fresh Peanuts (top picture).  Aynat asked me about some of my favorite squid/octopus dishes in town and I directed her to one of Anita Lo’s best sellers.  Needless to say she liked it.

Ivan Ramen – Pork Meatballs with Buttermilk Dressing, Bulldog Sauce, Bonito.  Perhaps it’s the hypnotizing dancing bonito flakes, the tangy Bulldog sauce, or those tender juicy meatballs. Whatever that is, hope this LES Ivan branch keeps it on the menu for a while.Ivan Ramen Pork Meatballs

Alta – Shrimp and Chorizo Skewer with Avocado, Garlic and Sherry Vinegar.  Another winner at this old tapas staple.  Aynat also praised the Brussel Sprouts with apple, Creme Fraiche and pistachios.  The dish that essentially made us start cook Brussel sprouts.  And many chefs around town followed.

Balaboosta – Crispy Cauliflower With Lemon, Currants and Pine Nuts.  It’s not an Israeli meal without a cauliflower dish. (Hmmm, I knew something was missing from my meal in LA last night).  This is one Balaboosta mustBalaboosta - cauliflower

Nougatine at Jean Georges – Fried Calamari with Basil Salt and Citrus Chilli Dip.  Never been to Nougatine so never had it.  But I can just taste it…

Root and Bone – Crispy Free Range Fried Chicken, Tea Brined and Lemon Dusted.  Perhaps the NYC fried chicken to beat, along with Ma Peche’s Habanero infused bird.  The brine and the magic dusting gives it a deeper, lasting flavor. Aynat also really admired the Charred Asparagus with Fire Roasted Tomatoes and Crunchy Peanuts. And talking about deeper and lasting, Root and Bone apparently means something else entirely down under (where half of the owners are from.  Coincidence?)root and bone chicken

Santina – Guanciale e Pepe.  Aynat also hit some of the new kids on the block, and enjoyed Santina’s Cecina as well.  I’ve personally been to Santina three times now, so ye.. I’m a fan too.Santina Guanciale e pepe

Rounding the top 20…

The NoMad Restaurant – Suckling Pig with Ramps, Potatoes and Salsa Verde.  Been twice, never had it

ABC Cocina – Spring Pea Guacamole with Warm Tortillas

Timna -Lamb Saddle with Persian Lemon Dust, Black Garlic Mousse, English Pea Purée.  Along with Fried Cauliflower (doh!) with Homemade Labane, Curried Tahini and Sumac.  Top of my to do list

Inti – Ceviche Mixto.  Love this dish.  They make great ceviche hereInti Ceviche

Mercato – Gnocchi in Beef and Pork Ragu.  Havent had this in a while and got tomorrow free.  m..u..s..t r..e..s..i..s..t…

Kati Roll Company – Unda chicken roll.  Never had it.

Gazala’s – Sun dried tomato Bourekas with Hummus, salad and olives.  Still best hummus in town

Ample Hills Creamery – Salted Crack Caramel.  Seriously addictive ice cream (like seriously!) .  Aynat also gives major props to the Sullivan Street Bakery Bomboloni and Amorino gelato.

So there you have it.  There were many other great dishes Aynat enjoyed in this one, but these are the highlights.  This is a great starting point for those researching their next trip.  Thanks Aynat for this glorious report

Categories: East Village, Lower East Side, Midtown West, New York City, West Village | Tags: , , , | 3 Comments

Mission Chinese 2.0: Possible

Mission Chinese Dumplings

December 20th, 2016 Update:

Mission Chinese Food continues to tickle and tackle my taste buds.  But at the same time its becoming more and more apparent that not all dishes work for everyone, and my ability to properly select from this menu is shaky at best.  It almost seems like its strength and claim to fame, the ultra fiery stuff, is also its weakness.  People either love the numbing heat or hate it, while the hate is strong enough to keep its Yelp score shockingly low for a place with such profile.  But even much of the love..  “The wings were KILLA, but I couldnt finish more than 3” is questionable.  In a normal world, you dont recommend a dish you personally gave up after eating laboring a quarter of it.

To me the strength lies in the more subdued plates.  Like the Green Tea Noodles, and the simple but proper fried chicken.  A less subdued solid discovery is the addictive spicy noodles with peanuts, and cold shrimp that dont bring much to the table.  But the shocker the other day was the expensive, great sounding Fragrant Crab Rice that turned out to be bland and uneventful.  It was essentially a bucket full of dry rice, with crab that is totally lost, and no scent to speak of.  Here, such dish can quickly turn into an expensive side dish to balance the heat from other dishes.  This is also where the Tom Khallins drink comes in handy.  Go, still, but not as enthused as before.

March 28, 2015:

Yesterday I got a disturbing text from my barber.  It wasnt so much about the content of the text, but rather the fact that I got a text from my barber that was alarming.  Initially I concluded wrong number, but then I remembered that my barber was the only person I know that calls me by the wrong name.  I gave up correcting him 5 years ago and simply play along.  “Terry, I moved to the other side of the mall, by Macy’s.  Please confirm that you received this text”.  After confirmation, he was very delighted that I showed understanding, and opted to stick with him!?!  Well, why on earth wouldn’t I.  Should I consider perhaps that the other side of the mall is further away from my house?  Maybe he’s implying lack of parking?  I’ve only been with him for 16 years.  Should I drop him because the other side of the mall doesnt have an Auntie Anne’s soft pretzel stand, and simply hire one of the old schmucks taking a nap at 10 am?  I always show up to a Bunny Ranch-like lineup of sleeping barbers to choose from.

Mission ChineseIn similar fashion Mission Chinese Food moved from the LES to Chinatown, pretty much the same distance as my barber.  Danny Bowien, and MCF opened with a bang initially, even winning in a rather shocking fashion the coveted Best New Restaurant of 2013 from the New York Times.  Not too long after, it was closed by the Health Dep’t, reopened shortly after, only to close for good shortly after that.  For its fans this unfolding was difficult to watch.  As difficult as watching a baby seal getting clobbered to death.  If I would only have a nickle for every favorite Chinese restaurant closed at some point by the Health Dep’t, I would have a Quarter by now. Who cares if there’s evidence of mice.  As long as the mice and I are not there at the same time.

The new space, compared to the old, is comically stunning.  Like a bizarre cross between a fancy diner, a steakhouse, and a Lucky Cheng’s.  It kept some of the furniture from previous tenant Rosette, including a pizza oven which they utilize for pizza and bread.  Comfortable booths, chandeliers, and Lazy Susans unlike the Lazy Susans at my Doctor’s office where you just got lazy women named Susan.  When you add this all up, including the many mild additions to the menu, you get something you can bring your family, or even your in-laws.  But contrary to the way it looks inside, and the sign outside, it is very far from your average Chinese joint. Mission Chinese Tom Khallins

Started with one of the most unique drinks in recent memory (about a week give or take).  Tom Khallins – Old Tom gin, coconut milk, kaffir lime, lemongrass, ginger, chile, and sesame oil served in a small tea bowl.  After this and Pok Pok I’m really starting to get into those coconuty drinks.

The “Bread Service” is essentially a delicious smoky round Laffa with kefir butter spread.  It comes with a price tag ($7) that will make any Israeli or Arab shiver, a la the Jerusalem Bagel at Bar Bolonat.  Although the great free cilantro and scrambled eggs dumplings leave less room to complain.  One good reason NOT to get the bread is that it takes a lot of space on the table that you will struggle for very soon.

Mission Chinese Bread ServiceThe Cumin Lamb Ribs while on the fatty and chewy side were somehow more satisfying that the previous version.  The Dates in this dish alone are worth the price of admission.  On the other hand, the Kung Pao Pastrami went from my favorite to least favorite of the night.  The pastrami this time was much more charred, with texture closer to the potatoes it came with rather than that great pastrami of 1.0.  It wasn’t bad overall, but the rest of the lineup was just better.

Like the great Beef Jerky Fried Rice with Beech Mushrooms.  Wildly flavorful, but only the second best fried rice dish of the day (oxtail fried rice @ Blue Ribbon near Columbus Circle for lunch).  And if I would have to pick a favorite this night, it would probably be the Green Tea Noodles with ginger scallion, hoisin, and the great matcha flavor which makes the dish.  The only issue with this one is that the noodles are so stuck together (not so much in a bad way), that its difficult to remove a portion if you are sharing.  Eat this like Chinese eating rice.

Mission Chinese Food
171 E Broadway
$$$
Recommended Dishes: Tom Khallins, Beef Jerky Fried Rice, Green Tea Noodles, Cumin Lamb Ribs

Mission Chinese Pastrami

Mission Chinese Green Tea Noodles Mission Chinese Cumin Lamb Mission Chinese

Categories: Lower East Side, New York City | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

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