How often do you get a chance to stay at a tranquil, 5 acres, 13 room, modern boutique hotel, with lush gardens, remote feel yet short driving distance to civilization, for around $250 a night. Oh and did I mention a Michelin Star restaurant on site, considered by many the place to beat in Pays Basque. Possibly our most memorable stay ever in France.
This gem is technically in Bidart but closer to Guéthary or Getaria in Basque. Not to confuse with Spain’s Getaria, home of the famous Turbot. Located in the middle of the forest, but smack in the middle of French Basque between Biarritz, Bayonne and Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Not to mention easy access to the two said villages and local restaurants like the outstanding Ezkia.
This is the product of third generation Ibarboure brothers. Xabi takes care of the savory side, and Patrice, a Daniel alum, handles the sweet side. The award winning cookie waiting for us on arrival was a preview of things to come. Between munching on cookies, the heated pool, gardens, and restaurant, you may not want to leave the property. The always helpful full staff makes it easy. Is this starting to sound like an ad? Good. Any day now I should get my first check from any of the hundreds of places featured here.
There’s something about putting on my dressy Costco pants, brushing whatever hair I’m grateful to still have, and walking about a hundred feet to the restaurant, passing by the garden, the source for much of the menu. The walk back through a secret backdoor is even shorter, and much appreciated with this wine menu.
I’m not going to go over every one of the courses. But an epic meal to say the least featuring all sorts of flavors, textures and surprises in classic Michelin style. Like Zucchini flowers filled with langoustine custard with tempura’d langoustine lollipops. A 41 y/o classic dating from the brother’s dad. The seasonal salad course as expected, absolutely divine. Same for the sensational beef.
Foams and sauces made from the vegetables and herbs grown in the garden featured throughout. The desserts were possibly the best part of the meal. Mrs Z proclaimed the chocolate dessert after enough vino, “best chocolate thingy I ever had”. We usually share everything, but she got all weird in this case. But I was extremely satisfied with my fig creation.
The atmosphere was typical of a remote hotel Michelin restaurant. Not many patrons which means you receive a lot of attention, but with the kind of professionalism that keeps you comfortable. The same great attention to detail you expect from such establishments. And we got lucky with one of those fun waitresses who laughed at all my bad dad jokes. This entire hotel/dining experience is a classic example of sum of all parts greater than whole. I recommend a minimum of three nights.
A tale of two cities. Only 8 km apart, but two distinctly different cities in Pays Basque. Isolated from the rest of France in more ways than one, although Bordeaux can be reached in a couple of hours. Biarritz International Airport conveniently sitting between the two, is a good starting point for a Basque adventure. Though we opted to fly to San Sebastian which is actually in the town of Hondarribia, close to the border.
Biarritz is the glitzy, fashionable sister. It ends with “Ritz” after all. But its one of the least if not the least Basque-looking city I’ve seen. Quite the contrast to something like the Saint-Jean-de-Luz close to Spain’s border. A small fishing village that turned into a modern resort town, with a healthy surfing culture. It has a striking coastline dominated by Rocher de la Vierge (Rock of the Virgin). Access to it was closed when we were there due to the bigger than usual waves, but it’s still quite the drama queen from a distance.
Things began to turn in Biarritz in the mid 19th centaury when Napoleon III built a little summer home for empress Eugénie de Montijo. Today its of course a lavish, but surprisingly affordable, Hôtel du Palais Biarritz. Nearby you have a scenic lighthouse, and Playa De Biarritz, one of several beaches around. Did I mention Biarritz is the surfing capital of France? It’s also a center for thalassotherapy. These surfers need that seawater therapy when they retire.
For food you got a very happening Halles de Biarritz, food market. And I’ve heard great things about Chéri Bibi. But since we had big dinner plans in Bidart, we took the opportunity to continue our new French tradition. A Brittany style Galette (Buckwheat Crêpe) Complète. You can find plenty of options these days everywhere, but I find the Breizh Café chain fairly reliable.
Moving on to Bayonne felt like moving to another country. Not quite at first glance as the newer parts felt more of the same. But once you reach the old parts, your jaw slowly drops. Two stunning old towns for the price of one, separated by river Nive. On Monday many of the stores were closed, but that didnt take away from the charm.
Both Grand Bayonne and Petit Bayonne, the two old towns are worth spending some time in. You got a plethora of food stores especially ham, cheese, and chocolates. Jews escaping the inquisition brought their cocoa beans with them, establishing the roots of a robust chocolate culture today. With that said, the most fun discovery for me was actually… Basque Ketchup. Steak with fries night cant come soon enough.
Living near Bayonne bridge that connects to Bayonne, New Jersey gave us something to talk about with the locals. Like visiting Verrazzano castle in Tuscany. Locals told us they sometimes struggle when Google sends them to the wrong Bayonne. Are they searching for a Costco?
We are back from another trip to Basque Country. This time spending some time in Pays Basque Français. Spoiler alert: Its as stunning as Spain’s Basque if not more. Filled with striking old towns and picturesque villages like the home of this gem. I get the sense that younger people flock to San Sebastian and Bilbao due to social media pressure, while the older folk that know a thing or two, keep the French Basque a secret. Dont let them win!
When you do visit the cities and villages of Pays Basque, one of the first things you notice is Espelette everywhere. Espelette stores, Espelette spices, magnets, and other products. That’s because you are not too far from the famed village of Espelette, home to the renowned Espelette peppers. You’ll see the peppers hanging in random places, and the peppers heavily utilized in local cooking. Even when you order something as simple as a Gallete (Buckwheat crepes from Brittany) in Biarritz, chances are you’ll get it topped with Espelette butter. Even without the fame, Espelette is one of the most beautiful villages in France.
Choko Ona (“Good Place” or “Good Corner”) is just another reason to visit this village. A one Michelin that acts like one but priced like a Bib Gourmet. Smartly furnished space, housed in an 18th century house that today looks more like someone’s private home. One cool feature is the entire back side of the house can be wide open, overlooking their garden.
A creative menu featuring seasonal local ingredients. All handled by a young staff that speaks English and makes you feel at home. The only thing I didnt appreciate was sitting in front of a mirror ;). We changed spots midway much to the horror of the entire establishment.
We opted for the 4 courser, which of course was more like 6 or 7. Flawless to say the least. To start, in classic Michelin, outstanding tidbits to dazzle your palate. Then an Onion tart, pretty much just layers of braised onions topped with caramelized jus. One-note but an addictive one. Onion hater Mrs Ziggy cleaned her plate.
Then the most beautiful, delicate… Jewfish! Not an autocorrect. Maigre as its called here, aka Meagre, Croaker, Drum Fish, and other names, including yes, Jewfish apparently. An outdated name for some reason (I’m Jewish so I’m allowed to joke about this, but you are not) pretty much everywhere except Australia and other places. Regardless of what you call it, this was superb,
Kintoa pork, perfectly cooked medium-rare, super tender and juicy. Served with a leek topped with some sort of pesto, along with saffron pilaf rice and more delicious Jus. Kintoa is a local breed. Its called Kintoa because back in the day local farmers had to pay the king a fifth (Kintoa) of their pigs as tax. Hazelnut dessert, and more glorious tidbits was the perfect finish. Another highlight was the Brioche with, what else, Espelette butter.
One thing I really liked about Choko Ona is the pacing and the amount of food served. It should be more common especially in Michelin places, but not often you leave a tasting menu, satisfied, not full, while consuming plenty. We were still able to enjoy a multi course dinner that evening.
Final Paris post. It wasnt a flawless eating trip by any stretch. In between all that brilliance we had a few hiccups (I’m looking at you Eunoé), but we were quite happy with the final result. The food scene in Paris is a lot more interesting than 10-20 years ago, when old school Bistros were just Bistros, and proper Asian and other ethnic food was almost nonexistent. All this means with some careful researching you can create quite the varied food itinerary. Although personally I was mainly focused on food that’s not part of my diet back at home.
Escargot at L’Aubergeade
I’ve already written about this hidden gem in the 12th. Very popular with locals. In fact we were one of few that were not given hugs by the owner (reflected in my Yelp review!) who was running around as if there were two of him. Well, until we realized there were in fact two, twins. I could have picked pretty much any dish from this meal, but the addictive Escargot stood out for us. Just the right amount of butter and garlic, just like we like them.
“Tomato” at Granite
Tom Meyer’s Granite is a welcomed retreat from the mad scramble Louvre nearby. A 10+ dish feast for all senses. I dont take detailed notes anywhere, but if I did here, it would read like a novel. There were too many hits to mention, but the Tomato dish was the most memorable one. Of course it was not just a tomato, but a “welcome to a Michelin star in Paris tomato”. A flavor symphony with each morsel.
Sweetbread at Parcelles
A local gem that became a tourist darling once the NYT and other publications took note. Its one of the hottest tables in Paris these days. While all dishes were great especially one particular Calf’s head carpaccio, the Sweetbread is the reason to come. Whether you like sweetbread is almost irrelevant. With that mashed potato, dark veal jus and capers, its a spoonful of pure bliss. They only make about 10-15 of them, so some call to reserve it for dinner.
Jambon Beurre at Le Petite Vendome
A sandwich legend among the Guccis and the Louis in the area. Sandwiches available at the bar or takeout, and they are simply sensational. We shared a classic, and one with quality black pepper and goat cheese. Just my kind of old school at a price of less than half of some of the other notables. Nice atmosphere, music, and fun, happy waiters even when they get super busy. Best to arrive right after lunchtime if you can, when the pesky tourists disperse.
Argentinian Entrecôte at Blanca
The fact that we had this a day after our visit to the famed Paul Bert is everything you need to know. Superb quality meat cooked to med-rare perfection. I hesitated to put anything on it because it was so flavor packed but after trying it I happily poured the homemade vinegary chimichurri and black pepper. Its a tiny place so reserve ahead. Music on Wednesdays as of this writing.
Whiting at Perception
The best and fun way to take advantage of the Paris Michelin culture is try to find the places that are on the cusp of stardom. Perception in the 9th is one of many Asian inspired contemporary neo Bistros, led by a talented Korean chef. While I could have easily picked the stuffed cabbage (ratatouille moment for Mrs Z), or BBQ pork cooked three ways, the beautiful, delicate whiting was unlike anything I ever had.
Cassoulet at La Forge (5th)
When I was younger, and had a head full of dazzling hair, my favorite French dish was the Cassoulet. When I saw it on menus I would stop reading the rest of it. That’s why I was setting myself up for disappointment at La Forge, even though its one of their specialties. Its so often not the same as you remember. Needless to say it was as glorious as I was hoping and then some. Although the duck confit at this Southwestern old-timer was equally as good. One of our favorite meals.
Profiteroles at Grande Brasserie
While I’ve eaten my fair share of Profiteroles during my young life, I never imagined that it would make this list. Between the size, and the flavors of this monster, its just about the best Profiteroles we ever had. Not surprising considering Grande Brasserie is one of the more reliable traditional Brasseries in the center. And the attractive, well lit room is a major bonus for us young boomers.
Cheese at Paroles de Fromagers
The plan, to eat a great amount of cheese while in Paris was a big fail. All the popular stores were brimming with tourists, and the rest of the time my stomach was brimming with other food. But I saved room for the cheese and wine class at Paroles de Fromagers where it was not only educational, but some of the tastiest Cheese I ever had. Époisses, Saint-Nectaire, Roquefort Carles just to name a few.
Pastries at Cyril Lignac
Even though they didnt quite look like this when we ate them at the airport. The Equinox, Citron, and Kouign-Amann, all outstanding in that order. I dont usually get excited by looks, but these were the most hypnotic pastries I’v ever seen, with the flavors to match. And they open at 7 am (at least the one on Paul Bert). I mean nothing opens this early in Paris
Whether you are a first timer, a ten timer, urologist or whatever, you may find some of these random tips useful. Or not. I have no idea. That’s why I like to use the word “Random”. It relieves some of the pressure to provide the most necessary tips, such as how to carry your wallet, say hello, and my absolute favorites, “Bring Your Camera”, and “Wear Comfy Shoes”. I prefer to focus on tips not covered as much by the mainstream.
Stay in the 11tharrondissement
I suppose what’s a better way to get your attention than start with some controversy. With so many areas to choose from, I suggest staying in one where the closest major attraction is… a cemetery. But that’s precisely the idea here. Its an often overlooked area, mainly outside the tourist route. While you’ll see plenty of tourists, its a nice mix of locals, tourists, boutique shops, cafes, and most importantly one of the better food areas in Paris. Its like the East Village of Paris. After visiting all areas in the center, it felt good coming back here.
Take a food/drink experience
A food experience is something I always look for in my travels. Mainly food tours. The problem of food tours in Paris is that most tours offer mostly the familiar stuff… Croissant, Baguette, cheese, cold cuts…) but the experience as a whole including meeting other visitors, and a fun guide still may make it worthwhile. But instead of a food tour, consider something like a French cheese and wine class to get up to speed with these important and often misunderstood staples. Paroles de Fromagers is not a collection of cheesemongers on parole, but a shop that offers these fun educational experiences including tastings and workshops. And if Agathe is your “teacher”, you are in for a treat.
Spend a night in Chartres
A charming town becomes a magical one at night. Usually between April and January (check the current year plan), the striking cathedral and monuments all over town get illuminated. The cathedral light show alone will make famous Saks 5th Ave blush with envy. You also have the picturesque medieval center, the tiled Maison Picassiette, and on the way you can stop by the splendid Château de Maintenon (below)
Louvre’s real secrets are the entrances
Much has been said about this one, but why no one takes advantage. While the line by the pyramid snakes around for like a mile, just walk 5 minutes to the “Porte des Lions” entrance where the two lions will greet you with a much nicer welcome. Thats two lions more than most likely the amount of people you’ll encounter. But not from the river side as the gate may be closed. From the Jardin du Carrousel side. Once inside in the lobby turn left. Strangely if you turn right, you may see a sign saying you are at the wrong building. Just turn around.
See “How to become a Parisian in one hour”
Here’s a tip in the true sense. Instead of seeing school level artistry featuring topless women at a small fortune, why not see a show that’s much more of a bang for the buck. Unless of course no topless is a non starter. “How to become a Parisian in one hour” is not exactly a riot, but a witty one man show by an animated comedian. Its a fun hour and change. And in the process you learn a few things about Parisians, metro, shopping, Parisian dog poop, and even get a chance to ask him questions at the end.
Eiffel’s best angle is from Trocadéro
If you are like Mrs Z, you’ll likely drag your significant other to the “Iphone Tower” (because thats all you’ll mostly see) every other day. Even when you stay 30 minutes away. We saw the tower from every angle at different times of the day, and nothing remotely comes close to the view from Trocadéro Square at night where you see the icon in all its glory. (The last time we did that was October 7!). Other areas closer to the tower were much less pleasant.
Adjust your Breakfast needs
Its 8 am, you are tired of Yoghurt, croissant, baguette, butter, jam, rinse, repeat for the past 5 days and you are ready for a nice omelet. An hour later, you give up searching and settle for a croissant, baguette, butter, jam breakfast elsewhere for double the price and no yoghurt. While you can find amazing egg dishes, and other goodies Americans associate with breakfast in Paris, it doesnt mean that you’ll find many kitchens serve these things before 11 am. Even if Google shows that the corner Brasserie is open early, it doesnt means its kitchen is open. Instead follow the local crowds into bakeries.
Put Palais Garnier on the must list
You can easily overlook this gem if you only focus on “guide book musts”. Although not quite as famous as the Louvre, this might be a more memorable experience depending on your interests. Opulence on another level. And that’s just what people are normally wearing for this photo shoot. This is where I want my next wedding to take place!
Learn your RERs and SNCFs
Using the metro in Paris is very convenient. I have to admit that as a New Yorker I was envious. It took us a few trips to Paris to finally use it, but once we did, it became fairly easy with the aid from best friend Google Maps. If only my friend gave me the proper advice when we went to Chantilly. While you can get there with RER, it’s not only not the best way, but you risking a fine when you take the wrong train back which is quite easy to do. For within the city use the RER. For intercity, use the comfy and sometimes even strangely cheaper SNCF.
Yes, have a crepe, but also try a Galette
I’m shocked by the amount of visitors that come to Paris and never try a Galette. Ok, I only met two, but they are out there I’m sure. Galette is the savory, good looking cousin of the Crepe, made with buckwheat flour and filled with cooked ham, egg, and comté cheese. After a big lunch, I cant think of a better alternative to pizza as a light dinner. Its a Brittany import, and the best place to try them are Brittany imports like the Breizh Cafe chain.
Thats all I got today kids. Just remember to wear comfy shoes and dont forget to take your camera!
I was told by a local to keep this one a secret. I told him sure no problem, but failed to mention that I’m not very good at keeping secrets. Not to mention the local who gave me this secret equally sucks at it. Sometimes secrets get you in trouble. Like when I told my primary doctor that I smoked cigarettes at the age of 6. He’s old and didnt quite get the half joke and sent me for a Chest CT scan and other tests.
With the war in the Middle East consuming our lives these days, our visit to L’Aubergeade feels like ages ago. But it was only last month. On our first night in Paris the stars aligned, and everything clicked. Well, until we picked the “iPhone Tower” as our after meal Passeggiata. Its like a giant iPhone commercial these days as that’s all you see all around you. iPhones, red balloons, and a tower somewhere between it all.
L’Aubergeade is an old timer, run by two old timers. Twins in fact. I was about to say to my wife, “its like there are two of him”, until I noticed our waiter/owner had a different shirt this time. The twins easily handled the entire house, running around like two teenagers. In the US we are accustomed to seeing double the amount of workers in places this size, not to mention half the age of the twins.
Early on the silky smooth Foie Gras with clementine jam was a nice preview of things to come. Even more memorable was the addictive Escargot. Garlicky, buttery, awesomeness. Just like we like them. The problem with perfect escargot on your first night in Paris is that the rest of the stay they may seem pedestrian (and they were).
The deconstructed steak tartare was more deconstructed than I anticipated with all the ingredients including all the sauces on the table. But after mixing it up with some adjustments I think I’m ready for a chef de Tartare at Granite. Not sure I prefer it this way but enjoyed it nonetheless.
Leg of lamb with couscous was masterfully cooked. Extremely tender and scrumptious. Finished with a nice “Norwegian Omelet”, a new one for us. Essentially a baked Alaska. Flambéed, ultra light, fluffy, with an ice cream surprise inside. My favorite kind of surprise.
L’Aubergeade is just the kind of rustic we look for on our travels. Judging by the amount of locals in the house, it seems like everyone’s kind. Its not quite on the tourist trail. The residential location in the 12th will probably make sure of that. Tremendous value to boot with 88 euros total including a nice bottle of house white. This is a major Go!
Paris visitors usually follow the same playbook. See the main sights and save room for a day in Versailles. We also followed the same playbook on our first visit, though Versailles wasnt nearly as busy back then, and my hairline looked much better in the Hall of Mirrors. But when Château of Versailles became a UNESCO World Heritage sight in 1979, another important site, less than an hour out, got the same designation.
That site is the Chartres Cathedral, the first UNESCO cathedral. No need for a welcome to Chartres sign as the towering cathedral you see upon entering the town does the job just fine. A 12th century architectural marvel that includes a record 2,600 square meters of stained glass. It ranks quite up there with the grand cathedrals of Europe. And once you see it at night from April to January, the unforgettable interior almost becomes forgettable.
No pictures, videos, or this post will properly prepare you for the Chartres Lumieres experience. The light shows on the cathedral will make the world famous Saks 5th Ave blush with envy. But thats not nearly the only building. The entire town including other notable monuments and bridges get their own light displays, and the entire town is transformed into something you see on Xmas movies. Except that its April, June, or maybe August.
The town also boasts a quaint medieval center, and just outside of the center you have the unusual Maison Picassiette – A property entirely decorated with mosaics of glass and china fragments. Sort of similar in a way to Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens. Overall its a fun town to explore, and Le Parc Stanislas, a bed and breakfast will make you wish you booked more nights. Its the calm before the Paris storm.
And if you have a car, on the way to/from Paris check out Château de Maintenon, a hidden gem 30 minutes from Chartres. Even on a beautiful October day the Château was fairly empty. This is the sight of the final scene of The Professional. No, not that The Professional, the good one, with Jean-Paul Belmondo.
Tough to write about food these days, but we march on.
Parcelles is one of those places that people either love or love to hate. Local buzz, followed by NYT praise put Parcelles on a hype pedestal very few are able to achieve. Reserving Parcelles isnt very hard if you have a full week in Paris. Just pick the only time available, cancel your Louvre tickets, move dinner plans, and make sure you are around the Marais that day. Easy shmeezy.
Parcelles is a comfortable, sophisticated Bistro in a quiet corner of Le Marais. While its just far enough from the Falafel crowds of the Marais, it is still a destination for FOMO travelers. Well, like myself. The problem however when you are surrounded by FOMO travelers, you are feeling the stress from people that are not entirely comfortable with a menu as such. Thankfully there’s always Gnocchi.
Talking about stress, two young guys ran the entire house. I’m always amazed with European restaurants that operate with half the number of employees of similar restaurants in the US. But at Parcelles you could feel some of the stress in the room. No brownie points for the ambiance from me, but not only the food more than made up for it, the ambiance may be quite alright for you.
A three courser of one hit after another, starting with an outstanding silky smooth Calf’s head carpaccio. Even though I enjoyed it more than Mrs Z who didnt care much as she was in Paté heaven with the Paté en croute. We skipped the much hyped Gnocchi as its something I can easily get in NYC.
One of the reasons to come to Parcelles is for the Sweetbread. If you search for Sweetbread on this site you wont get many results as this is just not my thing. But this is one of those foods that I feel one should not easily give up on. I call it The Bacalhau affect. The Parcelles version may convert you. Expertly cooked Sweetbread with mashed potato, dark veal jus and capers, a spoonful of pure bliss. They only make 10-15 per day, so some call to reserve their Sweetbread for dinner.
Another solid dish was the monkfish, even though it relied a bit too much on the accompanied sauce. The Sweetbread is just a tough act to follow when you are sharing. Chocolate tart with caramelized pecans was another standout. While I’m not the biggest fan of Chocolate desserts, I’m a sucker for a good chocolate tart. Go!
You eat Argentinian of course. When I was researching Paris food, one thing became fairly clear. Its not your father’s Paris. Much has changed since we’ve been here last (15-20 years). The restaurants back then are now referred to as “traditional”. And the city is now flooded with all sorts of ethnic eats, Asian/French fusion, Neo-bistros, and Asian/French Neo-bistros. This made researching a lot more fun and challenging at the same time. Do I want Tagine, duck confit, or Argentinian steak on Wednesday?
Live music on Wednesdays made that decision easier. Still, tiny Blanca in food heaven 11th arrondissement was a risky bet after a less than desirable meat streak (I’m looking at you Paul Bert). But this turned out to be the most memorable meal in a week full of them. The ultra talented guitarist/singer helped. Not only a beautiful voice, but he can play other instruments with his mouth. It was like a three person band for the price of one.
We were the only tourists in the house, confirmed by our bubbly Mexican waitress. It is time to change that ;). Although Owner/chef Violetta doesnt speak my English, we shared a few laughs. She has friends in high places, including baker Thierry Breton (no, the other one) and his outstanding bread that is part of your Blanca experience. One of the better breads of the trip. In NYC this kind of quality now comes with a price tag.
Started with perfectly blistered Shishito peppers with a light creamy guac that worked very well together. No matter how much Shishito we eat, we rarely get tired of them. Cheese empanadas that seemed on every table, were well seasoned and tasted much better than they looked.
The Pièce de Résistance and one of the reasons for the visit was the Argentinian Entrecôte. Unlike at Paul Bert the night before, cooked to med-rare perfection, flavor packed, and cheaper too. It came naked with salt, black peppers and homemade vinegary chimichurri on the side. I hesitated to put anything on it as it was that good, but pouring some of that chimichurri and black pepper turned out to be net positive.
Another highlight was the “chicken mistake”. We actually ordered the monkfish instead, but after a quick inspection we were happy to keep the super moist, expertly cooked mistake. It came with morels and mashed squash. Washed it all down with a potent Argentinian Cabernet. And finished with a very satisfying, light, flan with caramel. Flawless!
Eating With Ziggy 