Author Archives: Ziggy

Il Centro {Priocca} – King of the North

Posted on December 15, 2024 by Ziggy

Ever thought about what are your favorite restaurants in the world? Multiple trips to Piedmont will raise the question. Our favorite experiences are often the most recent, but some stay up there for years if not decades. If I had to make a list of my top 10, most will probably be in Europe, a couple in the Caribbean, and some elsewhere in the US. Weirdly none in my hometown NYC even though the food scene here is insane. The list would also include two places that are 40 km away from each other. A few weeks ago I’ve written about one of them. The other is Il Centro in Priocca (Piedmont)

If I had to shrink the list even more to top 5, 3, or even 1, Il Centro would probably still be on it. We’ve been really fortunate to have some amazing meals all over the world, and Il Centro is responsible for now two of them. I’ve written about the previous meal 10 years ago, so if you could only imagine the anticipation this time. Like a loyal dog waiting for his master to come home.

Il Centro is owned by the Cordero family for roughly 70 years. The busy kitchen is run by the mega talented Elide. Her husband Enrico walks around shaving truffles and schmoozing with the ladies. While the son Giampiero who is a respected sommelier, helps with the wine, the Italian challenged like myself and everything else pretty much. The space is a mature, businessy environment, with a menu that respects tradition, but also full of surprises. Their Michelin star is just one of the growing list of accolades.

Like pretty much any meal in Piedmont it begins with a beautiful bouquet of Grissini. Unlike any other meal however, here it continues with thoughtful, small flavor bombs. A preview of things to come. Millefeuille of Jerusalem artichoke with Bagna Cauda was the star early on. It even beat the outrageous red/white Mille Crepe cake pictured above, which is actually layers of raw Fassona veal thigh, and lardo.

Plain Tagliolini (Tajarin) with truffles and just the right amount of butter was very satisfying. Piedmont is the one region where I would gladly order the International kid’s meal of pasta with butter. Agnolotti del Plin, not surprisingly best of the trip. So delicate, yet flavor packed. The actual surprise was another Agnolotti, with butter, anchovies and bread crumbs. Unlike other Anchovy pastas we had, this was well balanced, well textured, and one of the best dishes of the trip.

Beef cheeks with caramelized figs, just as last time, deep, lasting sweet flavors, with the figs really shining throughout. But the theme of “as good as that was, wait until you taste the next one” continued with the crusted veal fillet with cauliflower. Superb!! Baby angels singing with every morsel. One of the many dishes showcasing the signature attention to detail of Elide.

I asked young Cordero if he can set us up with a local Roero, both white (Arnais) and red (Nebbiolo) and he delivered big time especially with the aromatic, delicious red from Cascina Chicco. Every aspect of this meal was done with tremendous care by a talented team. The staff is both professional and grounded. You dont come across such flawlessness of both food and service very often.

Although your meal at Il Centro can be as short as you want, if you are not a fan of three hour lunches, Il Centro may change that. You will not only leave with a lasting memory, but it will change the way you think about lunch. You’ll essentially start thinking like an Italian. Holidays should never be a sprint to check as many boxes as you can. Less is more. More often than not, memories come from experiences, not attractions. Ok, enough preaching for today :). Just trust me on this one!

Original Post

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Bar Bête – Stupid Good!

Posted on December 10, 2024 by Ziggy

Smith Street in Carroll Gardens is the gift that keeps on giving… and taking, as of late. Z-List darling FOB Filipino just closed and Ugly Baby is closing at the end of the year. While old and new like Avlee Greek Kitchen, Mama Capri, the excellent Rua Thai, and Bar Bête still making sure its one of Brooklyn’s best food streets. And shops like Smith & Vine and its selection of Vermouth and other goodies make it more worthwhile. We pay hefty tolls for the pleasure of visiting Smith Street.

Bar Bête is probably the most important addition on Smith in recent years. Ugly Baby, FOB may have started the cute name trend. Bête is slang for silly, or stupid. As in “Qu’est-ce qu’il est bête!” – How stupid he is! Hence, the title of the post. But its fitting in more ways than one. It is unequivocally stupid good. I usually find things to complain about. Not much luck here.

Thankfully we were told from the start of the meal that the food is for sharing. I was just about to order a full plate of curried cashews all for myself. Maybe the reason they keep telling us this is because we are usually the oldest people in the room (And I’m only in my late 40’s. 54 to be exact). “Is this your first time here” isnt very different than “Are you new to dining out” in places with menus and concept not wildly different than the rest. Not a complaint. Just an observation.

Bar Bête is a casual corner Bistro that happens to be literally on a corner. Its casual, but fancy enough to wear your new Untuckit shirt you got for the holidays. Its listed as “French” but to me its more like “New American” utilizing French techniques. The chef has extensive experience in high end dining in Vegas, Toronto and elsewhere. As as far as what we tried, a rare moment where I recommend every single dish. In fact, I wouldnt mind coming back without trying anything new.

Bar Bete

Started with a bang. Very few items can be as satisfying as a well executed, buttery Chicken liver Parfait. This one, with pistachios and spiced pear jam is as good as we’ve had in a long time. More awesomeness followed in the form of a Tuna Toast, one of the most popular items on the menu. A layer of fermented chili & garlic chive spread really elevates this.

The Duck Fat Potatoes is viewed by many, including the Infatuation, as the best thing on the menu. That honor should probably go to the Duck instead. The potatoes is really just an excellent side. Imagine a solid Patatas Bravas, except the pieces are bigger so meatier. The Hummus lookalike that comes with it is a fine garlic aioli. The Ricotta Gnudi is another standout. A common theme throughout the meal is balanced, deep flavors partially from the good use of chili.

The Caramelized Duck Breast is a dish we are still talking about three days later. Not only because it was the top dish, but also because we are still trying to figure out how I failed taking a picture of it. The picture I took just didnt develop somehow. The duck itself was cooked and spiced perfectly, but what really made the dish is the extremely aromatic smoky bed of cabbage.

The Yellow Cake with the chocolate frosting tastes exactly how you’d expect. A satisfying finish, but I suppose this is the only dish I’d consider skipping next time, in favor of the Creme Brulee. Try both. Only three cocktails on the menu was perfectly fine with us, and two of them quite good. Wine menu very French leaning as expected. Already looking forward coming back. Go!

Bar Bête
263 Smith St (Degraw, Carroll Gardens)
Recommended Dishes: Chicken liver Parfait, Tuna Toast, Duck Fat Potatoes, Gnudi, Caramelized Duck Breast, Yellow Cake

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Where to Eat Near your In-laws in Florida

Posted on December 4, 2024 by Ziggy

If you havent asked this question yet, give it some time, and bookmark this. I’m not talking about glitzy Miami area, though I will mention some places there too. I’m talking about the more in-law (or parents) friendly areas closer to FLL like Hollandale Beach, Hollywood, Aventura, etc. Areas not really known for great food like Miami. I’ve been going to South Florida for years, even lived there at some point, but I’ve never blogged about it. It changes today!! Or tomorrow to be exact as I need a few days to do this.

Rustic Inn Crabhouse – A legend among legends. Its usually either our first stop after the flight or the last before the flight back, as its 10 minutes from FLL. We’ve been going there for over 25 years and every single time I come, I cant for the life of me remember which crabs I usually get. Note to self: Its the Dungeness. Though the Alaskan isnt too shabby, albeit double the price. Get the Manhattan clam chowder, the best in the business Key Lime Pie, skip the over sweetened fried calamari and you are golden.

Note: There’s a plethora of large, sprawling seafood places all over the Ft Lauderdale area but Rustic Inn is the only one we currently like. I used to like Billy’s Stone Crab, but my last meal there was quite disappointing. Same for some of the others like Boatyard. But I think they are worth trying out at least once.

At Peru Hollywood – You normally dont expect great food on a super busy Boardwalk but this to me is some of the best Peruvian I’ve had in Florida. The Lomo Saltado, with the tender, delicious tenderloin is unmatched. And the Parihuela soup with seafood is a great winter dish, when temps drop from 82 to 80.

Piola (Hollandale Beach) – While it wont win any Napoletana awards, it’s a Pizza chain that’s better than any chain I can think of including in NYC. Owner is Italian (from Italy. not New Jersey). The concept in fact originated in Treviso. I’ve only visited the Hollandale Beach location, and it has become a family favorite over the years. The Diavola is always a must.

Motek (Aventura) – This is another impressive chain, strictly judging by the Aventura location. Outstanding elevated Israeli/Middle Eastern. Cant go wrong with the Arayes burger, flatbreads, Baba, and Hummus. Not to mention the Babka and Silan for the finish. Just try to avoid the awkward oversized round table they call Chef’s Table, if you want any ambiance.

Patagonia Nahuen – My go-to for Argentinian Empanadas, and the occasional breakfast sandwich. Great selection, and perfect for a lunch by the pool or beach, or in your room when you realize you forgot to put sunscreen yesterday.

It’s worth noting the family friendly nature of these picks as you are visiting family with possibly more family. Nothing romantic here (Mrs Z nodding profusely).

Diving deeper into the Miami area…

Old’s Havana Cuban Bar & Cocina – Time to explore other parts of South Florida, starting with the famous Little Havana. Everyone should experience Old’s Havana at least once. Mega touristy for a very good reason. Only during the pandemic I recall seeing no lines stretching outside. They do take reservations which saved me big time last week. The best way to start the meal is with the Vitrola, a superb assortment of appetizers. Then try the Cuban sandwich, Pollo Asado, pork chops and lamb.

KYU Miami – Originated I believe in Houston, this is a popular elevated multicity Asian. There’s now a KYU in NYC in the former Gato space. This is a solid choice for groups and occasions. The famed cauliflower is actually my least favorite dish here. The fried rice, short rib, corn, fried chicken, gyozas are particular standouts.

Niu Kitchen – Cozy, intimate Spanish in downtown Miami. The kind of place that would do very well in NYC even though we have many such places. Fantastic Tapas and rice dishes, especially the seafood. Try the egg dish as well even though I liked it more the first time around. The shrimp, Octopus, the classic tomato toast not too shabby either.

Other places we enjoyed over the years in Miami…

Uchi – Japanese near KYU. Biblical menu but mostly good stuff

Boia De – Outstanding Italian, ok outdoor setting.

Lucali – Much easier to get a table than in NYC

Stiltsville Fish Bar – Great seafood by a team I’m well too familiar with in NYC

Tropezón Miami – More excellent Spanish with great drinks near Lincoln Rd.

Los Fuegos by Francis Mallmann – Upscale Argentinian in the amazing Faena Hotel. Worth visiting the hotel just to smell the lobby.

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Turin – Eating With Abram

Posted on November 24, 2024 by Ziggy

Turin, a food and monument wonderland in North Italy. A city rich in culture and history… and chocolate. I probably bought more chocolate in Turin than all my travels combined. It’s a city that would be a top destination just about anywhere else in the world, but in Italy it gets lost in the shuffle. Not to mention it’s so close to the mother of all food and wine wonderlands, Langhe. You will leave Turin talking about Turin like you talk about your newborn. Especially if you spend one of the days eating and drinking with Abram of I Eat Food Tours.

As some of you know, I’ve been taking food tours before most people even heard of them. I took my first one roughly 15 years ago in Lisbon, way before they went mainstream. 10 years later I started offering my own, before Covid hit and and life happened. While it remains the coolest thing I’ve ever done, I dont regret moving on.

Its a business I know a thing or two about. The good and the bad. Simply put, we both agreed that this was the second best tour we’ve ever done. It’s pretty impossible for a European tour to beat our almost 5 hour eating extravaganza in the markets of Mexico City. But this easily topped anything we’ve done in Europe. It got all the needed ingredients. Small group, entertaining guide, great food. A simple rule of thirds when it comes to Food Tours.

Abram is a Michelin star trained chef. He runs the tours along with his wife Cecilia. You just don’t come across something like this too often in large cities. If they do exist, Trip Advisor has made it very hard to find them since the Viator merge. Last year in Seville my best option was a large group with a company running tours in 20 cities across the globe. A staggering difference to a tour offered by the a local who owns the business.

I wont get into the food details except for the few pictures (there’s much more to this). The less you know the better. But this was some of the best food we had in Turin. There was one particular local specialty that we ate often all over Piedmont and none came to the level we had on the tour.

But the icing on the cake was Abram’s personality. Just the kind you want to be around for half a day and then wonder where the time flew. He’s a wealth of information about Turin, and his personal stories (he worked at the legendary Del Cambio) can carry the tour on their own. But at the end of the day, he’s just a fun guy that didnt stop smiling for four hours. Go!

I Eat Food Tours

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La Coccinella {Serravalle Langhe} – The Triumphant Return

Posted on November 20, 2024 by Ziggy

Imagine this scenario.  For a decade you dream about coming back to a place you ranked in the top 10 dining experiences in the world. You are finally back, and have another memorable meal, even while being somewhat under the weather. And when its time to update the post you wrote about this place 10 years ago, you discover that much of the old post was about Puerto Rican oven mitts, and bad dad jokes. Not the kind you normally expect on Google’s first page.

So instead of updating the old mess, I’ll just write a new one. But if you are looking for oven mitt tips, and some serious Piedmontese food porn, you may want to check out the original post, even though its a decade old. In Slow food country things change at a snail’s pace. And you get the sense that Alessandro, Massimo and Tiziano, the three brothers running the magic show at La Coccinella are not rushing to change much.

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again. The Langhe area has some of the highest concentration of great dining in Europe. Other than the coast area between Getaria and San Sebastian in Basque country, I cant think of another embarrassment of riches as such. Whether you are staying in La Mora, Alba, Monforte d’Alba, or even up in Guarene and Priocca, you are just minutes away from amazing dining. Of course offering Piemonte cuisine which is arguably Italy’s best, and some of the most versatile and robust wine in the world helps.

The menus in all these restaurants dont differ a whole lot, which is why places that go outside the box like Trattoria La Coccinella stand out. Not that I mind being in this box. I love the box, and can eat Agnolotti del Plin, Battuta di Fassona, and Vitello Tonnato every day. We pretty much did that for 10 days last month, and got the doctor warnings to prove that. But it’s nice sometimes to bump into some seafood, or maybe an onion stuffed with chicken liver, a local specialty that isn’t nearly as mainstream as the rest.

Whether you actually like onions is irrelevant in this case. The onion is stuffed with delicious chicken liver, baked in salt, and the result is sublime. But just like the fondest memory was an onion last time, this time it will be the Tagliatelle with mushrooms. It was unlike any mushroom pasta I ever had. More like a superb, meaty mushroom ragu. Even chief mushroom hater Mrs Z admired this one.

Just a couple of truffle dishes this time. Gnocchi with butter and a poached egg. Terrific even on their own. We got a little unlucky with the timing of the truffle season this time, as white truffle peak was a few weeks away due to excessive rain. Even our lunch with a truffle hunter was entirely black truffles. But we got very lucky with the mushrooms.

We ended with a mixed seafood grill that included succulent Sicilian red shrimp among other goodies. One of many dishes that showcases the chef’s range. And one of the only restaurants in the area offering a seafood menu. In addition you have a regular/classic menu, and a truffle menu when in season. Mixing the dishes from the various menus is allowed of course.

Driving to and from Serravalle Langhe is an event in itself. Especially if you arrive from the north or west, you’ll encounter some of the most stunning scenery in the country. Hence I suggest lunch, combined with a visit to Monforte d’Alba. Go!

The original post

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Chi Restaurant & Bar – Devilish Heat in Hell’s Kitchen

Posted on November 16, 2024 by Ziggy

Extremely large menus, showy instagrammable dishes, multiple truffle dishes is generally a turnoff for me when it comes to Chinese food. Avoid, avoid, avoid. In Hell’s Kitchen especially, the best food is so often found in unassuming places that dont welcome you with chandeliers and mini skirts. This is why it took me over a year to finally try this buzzy Chinese. Besides, just about all my favorite unassuming places in HK are now closed (enter winking, tongue out, wacky emoji).

But sometimes you just have to trust the reviews, and go with your gut. After staring at Chi pictures for longer than I’d like to admit, my gut told me, try it. Maybe I should treat food research just like food supplements and medicine. Consume with food. Best time to go food shopping is on a full stomach, they say. That didnt help me at Costco yesterday. I had no idea I was into Biscotti bigger than my head. How do I even dip this monster.

Simply put, Chi is terrific, and I was wrong to question it. In fact, its some of the best Chinese I’ve had in Hell’s Kitchen in years. The menu reads as if they had a meeting, and the person in charge said yes to every single suggestion. Soup dumplings? Yes! How about other Dim Sum items? Why not, in fact lets have a section. How about some Szechuan? Hmm, its tough to choose, lets do all of them including seafood. Ooh, how about pork belly presented like a pyramid. YAS!!!!! Oh, you may not like this one but how about some American dishes like Chicken with Broccoli. Duh! Its America, lets have another section including two different General Tso’s for good measure.

The space is attractive, comfortable, and the prices are fair. Friendly, spot-on service with one noteworthy feature, important to me. When it was time to pay, the waitress whipped the machine from her pocket, informed me of the cost, and we settled on the spot. Something very common in Europe, but not so much in the US. One of my biggest pet peeves is when they finally give me the check after begging for it for 20 minutes, they assume I need another 20 minutes to examine the three items on it.

As for the food, not a dud in the house. Every visit should start with their Cucumber salad. Doesnt sound exciting, but trust uncle Ziggy. It’s chunkier than the typical, and it comes with the kind of vinegar you’ll want to drink like a smoothy. Being a decent size, it may last throughout the entire meal, and with all the heat that will follow, you’ll appreciate it. It went well with everything we ate.

Another thing you’ll appreciate is the Dan Dan Noodles. The theme at Chi is not being shy with the ingredients. Nothing is dull, and nothing overpowering. The peanut and chili here pop just enough. Eggplant with garlic sauce was pretty much what you expect from a place like this. Again, big flavors. The only issue was that it needed some time to cool off. 20 minutes later it still hurt so good.

Similar story with the Chongquing Spicy Chicken. Unlike others we had lately, plenty of Mala, pleasant heat, and the chicken is properly cut, bone-in. Sometimes they cut them too small and all you taste is Mala. For nostalgic reasons we felt like trying one of the General Tso’s, “Lao-Gan-Ma General Tso’s”. Nicely cooked, spicier than usual. Just wish the balls were a little smaller. Go!

Chi Restaurant & Bar
492 9th Ave (37th, Hell’s Kitchen)
Recommended Dishes: Cucumber salad, Dan Dan Noodles, Eggplant with garlic sauce, Chongquing Spicy Chicken, Lao-Gan-Ma General Tso’s

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7 Tips for Lake Maggiore

Posted on November 12, 2024 by Ziggy

As usual I will provide 7 random tips for a destination we enjoyed. Even in pouring rain. I mean, non stop rain throughout our stay from the moment we got there to the moment we left. The forecast literally showed sunshine at the time of our flight back, followed by 10 days of nothing but sun. Like a sick joke. It wasnt so much the rain that bothered us, but the lack of blue skies. Pretty sure they are related! But rain or shine, this was a memorable trip to say the least. The lake offers much more than what day trippers come to see.

Check the calendar

Dont arrive in the middle of November and expect everything to be open. This is a very seasonal destination. The Borromean islands are already closed for the season as of this writing. And even when everything seems open like in mid October, ferries to some destinations like Verbania and Santa Caterina may be limited at best.

Yes, do all three islands

Like many, I contemplated whether all three islands are worth visiting. Isola Bella and the jaw-dropping palace is reason enough to hop on a plane, while the other two are not in the same league. But they still offer plenty of charm, and compliment each other well. Do Isola Bella in the morning, have lunch at the “food island” Isola Superiore, before doing the passeggiata along with the exotic birds on stunning Isola Madre.

Learn to read the ferry schedule

Learning about the various options, private or public ferries, and juggling all that with the destinations requires some advanced planning. If you simply want to do the three islands, the public ferry will suffice, and a hop on hop off day ticket is the best option. But while waiting for the ferry, spend some time getting familiar with the schedule slip. Like if you take the next ferry from X toward Z, make sure that it continues to Z after stopping at Y. Less of an issue in the peak summer months.

Check out the Palace hotels

One of the biggest surprises, if not the biggest in Stresa for us was the stunning hotels along the Lake Maggiore shore. The expansion of the Simplon railway in late 19th century, and into the 20th, connecting Switzerland and Italy, literally put little Stresa village on the map. The expansion resulted in a direct line from Paris to Milan which meant travelers needed a break somewhere, preferably by a lake. The result was luxurious hotels like Regina Palace and Grand Hotel Des Iles Borromee. They are nice to visit, but dont seem shockingly expensive either.

Visit Arona

Had enough of penis shaped Limoncellos staring at you from every corner in Stresa? Head to Arona, a picturesque resort town with a fraction of the foreign tourists of the north. It boasts an elegant old town with all sorts of cute shops, and jaw-dropping monuments like the giant Sancarlone. Good stop on the way to or from Stresa.

Have your Seafood fix at Il Clandestino

You can spend weeks in Piedmont before realizing your love handles got bigger and that you havent seen any seafood on menus. Il Clandestino and its animated chef/owner is almost literally doctor orders. Its not as famous as Il Vicoletto and others in the area, so much more accessible. The bonus is that you dont even need to open the menu which consists entirely of seafood. The owner comes out and asks you what you feel like eating, and the result is glorious. Just make sure that includes the sick Spaghetti with seafood mix. One of the best I ever had.

Stay and eat at Casa Rampolina

No need to stay at Stresa at all as you have a plethora of unique options all over the area. One of them is a hamlet right about Stresa called Campino where you can find a handful of guesthouses including Casa Rampolina. I’m easy to please, but I travel with someone who’s not. A small place of only 5 rooms, but a big heart. From the shower, to the bed, room size, service, and homemade breakfasts, four enthusiastic thumbs up. And due to the weather we didnt even take advantage of their top draw, the magnificent views of Lake Maggiore.

But that’s not all. La Rampolina, their restaurant just happens to be one of the most popular in the entire region with locals. Its so popular that they need a parking attendant to manage the traffic. On our night, a famous three Michelin star chef just happened to celebrate a family function there. Hard to imagine a bigger endorsement. It deserves a dedicated post, so stay tuned.

 

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Ginger and Lemongrass – Pig and Khao Light

Posted on November 7, 2024 by Ziggy

Yes, I hate the title too. A successful Southeast Asian restaurant owned by a woman from, you guessed it, Prague, offering some of the best and boldest soups in the business, among other deliciousness. And this no name blogger calls it P&K light. The nerve. The menu doesnt even resemble P&K. In fact I cant think of one dish they have in common. So why does it feel like P&K light so much.

The story, the location, the cuisine. Similarly to Leah Cohen, Petra Rickman also spent significant time in Southeast Asia learning the craft of cooking. They both own two Southeast Asian restaurants (Rickman recently opened a Mexican place called Taco Azul). Rickman’s Manhattan restaurant and Cohen’s flagship are very close to each other. Plenty of similarities, with Leah Cohen being much more famous, and P&K more daring and elevated, hence “Light”

That’s not to say Ginger and Lemongrass is a lesser version of Pig and Khao. The two are still very different. Ginger and Lemongrass is more accessible, offering an ambitious, yet simple menu, with a killer soup lineup. Just about everything I had at Ginger and Lemongrass over the years was executed well, especially one particular soup.

In the early days, when G&L opened 6 years ago, to me it was a great place to go for soup. A comfortable place you go to clean your sinuses when its freezing outside. I quickly settled on the Spicy Coconut Lemongrass soup that fits my taste like the 10 year old shoes you only wear when no one is around because it has giant holes. It has just the kind of balance you look for in a spicy Asian soup. Get it with Five Spice Beef Brisket or chicken.

It feels like G&L has become more well rounded over the years. Many reviewers rave about the spring and summer rolls but its something I rarely order anywhere. The wings here are serviceable. Could have been more tender and juicy, but the sweet and spicy sauce make up for much of it.

In addition to a whole lineup of rolls, sandwiches, salads, they now have Thai style curries of all colors with your choice of protein. The green curry is a little thicker than the typical Thai curry, but the flavor is spot on. But my favorite discovery last time was the Shaken Beef (Bo luc lac). I order Bo luc lac pretty much wherever I see it in Vietnamese places, and this is a good version. Nice and complex with that pepper lime dressing, onions, and potatoes. Even the rice they serve with the dishes is delicious.

The Thai Iced Tea here will get you hooked from the start but it’s a bit heavy with the condensed milk. Overall, light or not, Ginger and Lemongrass is a solid choice for lunch, dinner, first date, Bar Mitsvah, and post election blues. Go!

Ginger and Lemongrass
153 Rivington St (Lower East Side)
Recommended Dishes: Wings, Spicy Coconut Lemongrass soup, Shaken Beef, Green curry

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L’Acino – Our Top Meal in Turin

Posted on November 3, 2024 by Ziggy

And we had some good ones. Instead of keeping the best for last, and boring you with the rest of the stuff, I decided to start with the Crème de la crème, and bore you later. There’s a method behind this madness. Although I do have another top food experience in Turin that’s not a restaurant. I wont spoil it for you, but it rhymes with “Mood Tour”. The second best Mood Tour we ever took.

Sometimes you feel it in your gut as soon as you walk in. You just know this will be a good one. I havent felt that in any place in Turin, other than at L’Acino. You are in the presence of greatness. Not to mention surrounded by good looking people, so obviously we felt belong (how many times you’ll use this joke Ziggy?).

The elderly, energetic mom/pop owners greet you like family. He masterfully runs the front, while she runs the kitchen like a well oiled machine, and brings out the magic on a plate. I’m only in my late 40’s (54 to be exact) and I wish I had this kind of energy. One minute he’s welcoming, another minute he’s taking orders, and before you know it, he’s hovering right above us looking for the perfect red for table 5. Its like there were three of him. Last time I said that, I discovered there was actually a twin helping out in a Paris joint.

Finally tried the famous Cherasco snails. Snails farmed in a city called Cherasco in the Langhe. Dont even recall seeing them on the menu at the great La Torre in Cherasco 10 years ago. I was surprised by the way they were served. Unlike any escargot I ever had. The snails are meatier, but its more of a sum of all parts kind of dish, with the tomatoes, garlic and plenty of spices.

The onion was an even bigger revelation. Stuffed with perfectly spiced sausage and with that cheese sauce, a brilliant combination. When chief onion hater Mrs Z, eats onion, it must be very special. Another such onion saw similar fate in Serravalle Langhe. When you see a stuffed onion in Piedmont, pounce.

Beef braised with red Roero (Beef Stracotto Al Roero) and expertly cooked potatoes was just solid comfort food. Satisfying, albeit familiar. The Tajarin with ragu was less familiar. While I had plenty of Tajarin with ragu, this one had sweeter oomph to it, in a very satisfying to the palate kind of way. Owner (Didnt catch his name. “Fabio” according to Google AI which I dont trust) said its from the carrots.

All washed down with excellent Barbera by the glass. Surprisingly we appreciated and enjoyed Barbera more than Nebbiolo on this trip. The only negative to some, not so much to me, was two sittings, and requiring reservations (including via email) weeks in advance. A bit of a victim of its own success and fame. Considering the many accolades, being surrounded by locals was a surprise, a refreshing one. Go!

L’Acino – Via San Domenico, 2/A, Torino

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What’s Wrong with the NYT Best Pizza List? Everything.

Posted on October 31, 2024 by Ziggy

Ok, not everything. But enough for me to pause the Piedmont posts to reflect on an issue near and dear to my heart. Other than the Yankees blowing a big lead to lose the World Series, there’s nothing that can rile up the natives more than another pizza list. Especially when it comes from the NYT. But as with any pizza list there are some good things (cause its pizza), so I’ll start with that…

First, the link. I like the transparency. I like that the story starts with “The reporters for this story visited 50 pizzerias across all five boroughs.” I like that the reporters are active in the comments section, being humble and all.

I do like some of the mentions of newer places like L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele, and Ungaro Coal Fired Pizza Cafe in Staten Island. Da Michele especially feels fresh even for a Neapolitan. Although, why include a picture of someone using a knife and fork. We usually get the pies at Da Michele sliced, and we eat them with our hands. Its New York, not mayor de Blasio house.

Moving on to the issues…

While I appreciate the transparency, we have over 2000 pizzerias. NYC is the pizza capital of the world. Coming up with a list of 25, after eating at 50 places just wont cut it for “Best Pizza in NYC” list. And besides, in NYC, figuring out the best pizza is like trying to figure out the most active squirrels in Central Park.

Some individual inclusions and exclusions

Joe and Pats – Listing the overrated East Village location instead of the institution in Staten Island feels very wrong, strange and most importantly very wrong. Its like listing Di Fara Pizza on South St instead of the iconic Midwood. I understand its an expensive bridge even for the NYT, but Staten Island is one of our most important pizza boroughs.

Denino’s – Speaking of Staten Island, this is one of the more overrated places on the island. Old doesn’t always mean great.

L&B Spumani – Seriously, did they just forget to take a picture of the Sicilian? Maybe they never tasted it, or contractually obligated to include that pup? The Sicilian is their claim to fame.

Scarr’s – Ever since they moved to the bigger space across the street, they’ve gone downhill. It used to be my favorite slice in NYC but now its really no better than an average slice, and pretty much strictly for tourists.

Lucia of Ave X – I’m ok with this inclusion. In fact its one of my favorites. In fact I just had it yesterday! But this also highlights the challenges of a best pizza list in NYC. Its nothing more than a solid neighborhood joint where you can get a good slice that’s convenient to me. We have hundreds of these. And at least a hundred like Sacco in Hell’s Kitchen, Best Pizza in Williamsburg, Nonna’s in Great Kills, Lo Duca in Flatbush are excellent. Lucia, Joe’s, and the rest of them are simply more famous either due to age or marketing.

Other exclusions are more puzzling.

No Song e Napule? This might be the best we have. Its pizza perfection.

No Lucali’s? The author admits in the comments that the hassle was not worth it. But at the end of the day it’s still a best pizza list, not the most accessible pizza list.

No Una Pizza Napoletana? Widely considered by pizza experts one of the best pizzas in America, not just NYC, and the top in the world by the respected https://www.50toppizza.it/. Strange omission.

No Keste, Don Antonio? I can go on and on. But I guess you cant include them all, and a mix of types is important. Although more emphasis should be made for Neapolitan which is awesome in NYC at the moment.

No Di Fara?!? Ok, I actually agree with this.

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