Author Archives: Ziggy

Les Frères Ibarboure {Bidart} – Sum of All Parts

Posted on November 28, 2025 by Ziggy

How often do you get a chance to stay at a tranquil, 5 acres, 13 room, modern boutique hotel, with lush gardens, remote feel yet short driving distance to civilization, for around $250 a night. Oh and did I mention a Michelin Star restaurant on site, considered by many the place to beat in Pays Basque. Possibly our most memorable stay ever in France.

This gem is technically in Bidart but closer to Guéthary or Getaria in Basque. Not to confuse with Spain’s Getaria, home of the famous Turbot. Located in the middle of the forest, but smack in the middle of French Basque between Biarritz, Bayonne and Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Not to mention easy access to the two said villages and local restaurants like the outstanding Ezkia.

This is the product of third generation Ibarboure brothers. Xabi takes care of the savory side, and Patrice, a Daniel alum, handles the sweet side. The award winning cookie waiting for us on arrival was a preview of things to come. Between munching on cookies, the heated pool, gardens, and restaurant, you may not want to leave the property. The always helpful full staff makes it easy. Is this starting to sound like an ad? Good. Any day now I should get my first check from any of the hundreds of places featured here.

There’s something about putting on my dressy Costco pants, brushing whatever hair I’m grateful to still have, and walking about a hundred feet to the restaurant, passing by the garden, the source for much of the menu. The walk back through a secret backdoor is even shorter, and much appreciated with this wine menu.

I’m not going to go over every one of the courses. But an epic meal to say the least featuring all sorts of flavors, textures and surprises in classic Michelin style. Like Zucchini flowers filled with langoustine custard with tempura’d langoustine lollipops. A 41 y/o classic dating from the brother’s dad. The seasonal salad course as expected, absolutely divine. Same for the sensational beef.

Foams and sauces made from the vegetables and herbs grown in the garden featured throughout. The desserts were possibly the best part of the meal. Mrs Z proclaimed the chocolate dessert after enough vino, “best chocolate thingy I ever had”. We usually share everything, but she got all weird in this case. But I was extremely satisfied with my fig creation.

The atmosphere was typical of a remote hotel Michelin restaurant. Not many patrons which means you receive a lot of attention, but with the kind of professionalism that keeps you comfortable. The same great attention to detail you expect from such establishments. And we got lucky with one of those fun waitresses who laughed at all my bad dad jokes. This entire hotel/dining experience is a classic example of sum of all parts greater than whole. I recommend a minimum of three nights.

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San Sebastian – Random Tips

Posted on November 21, 2025 by Ziggy

This will be short, sweet and possibly or probably controversial.

Stay in Gros. This is not one of those situations where you are staying far from the action and need to travel to the center via a long boring walk or public transportation. Its an attractive, happening, residential area with plenty of interesting food options like Artean and a plethora of Pintxo bars. And the walk to the center via any of the bridges is pretty cool.

See the Sunset and surfers from Sagues. Another reason to stay in Gros or at least visit. This is where the young, the restless, and good looking people hang out, so we naturally blended in ;). Its a long promenade with a low wall for sitting and people watching, if not the glorious sunset.

Follow the path of local artist Eduardo Chillida, starting with the dramatic Haizearen Orrazia (Comb of the Wind), and the open-air museum, Chillida-Leku located outside the city. His masterpiece in Gijon (Elogio del horizonte) in Asturias worth checking out as well if you are travelling that way. You may even bump into Chillida’s grandson in Chillida-Leku.

As for food, too many to mention and I will continue writing about the highlights. Spoiler alert: Martin Berasategui worth the splurge, and Ganbara worth the wait. But its really hard these days to have a proper Pintxo crawl when you need to stand on ling lines, and due to the vastness and deliciousness of some of the menus.

Worth mentioning, if you are the “Eat to live” kind as some of my friends, as opposed to “Live to eat”, San Sebastian isnt really for you IMO. There’s really not a whole lot to do and see there.

Other day trips: Turbot village Getaria and the Flysch cliffs of Zumaia can be a very nice day. You can have an amazing lunch in Getaria at Elkano, any of its sisters, or Mayflower. Or do what we did this time, a Sea Bream feast at the legendary Xixario.

I wasnt sure whether to post the following, but I think its important to mention. Read it as an observation since this is really the intended purpose. It might be good news, or not, depending on where you stand on the issue.

In Basque country cities and villages these days, you cant really walk far without seeing a Palestinian flag, and in San Sebastian’s old town you cant walk two feet without seeing one. They are hanging from just about every poll, window, and even churches and municipality buildings. After some time, it just becomes part of the scene, but its quite prevalent at first. Even in small villages in Rioja you may see one waved in the main square. I have some ideas on the reasons, but I wont get into it here.

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    Chalong Competition!

    Posted on November 18, 2025 by Ziggy

    See what I did there? Hope the title makes sense to some of you. Humor, or whatever you call this, doesnt always translate well on the internet, but of course I never learn. Even the Chalong post below that I wrote in July of this year made me cringe and so I corrected it to “cringe light”.

    Anywho, this is just a friendly reminder that Chalong in Thai heavy Hell’s Kitchen is a strong candidate for NYC’s best or one of the best Thai. It’s not impossible, but hard to imagine a more well rounded, flavor rich menu. We had another epic meal last week, and this time we brought some of the fiercest food critics we know, our children. Conclusion: 10 big, sweaty thumbs up.

    The notable additions this time to all the awesomeness mentioned below is the beef fried rice, and Massaman Duck Confit. A good Massaman Duck that features just the right balance of sweet and tang with super tender Duck is hard to find. In fact the last time I had a good one was in Philly.

    I know I havent been posting much about my hometown lately. Been travelling quite a bit, and had a fare share of mediocre meals here as of late (I’m looking at you Da Toscano). Another reason is that I’ve been having some weird, random health issues lately, but I’m all good now, ready to go.

    Chalong – Smells Like Thai Spirit

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    Two Gems in Bilbao

    Posted on November 14, 2025 by Ziggy

    The more I travel, the lazier I get when it comes to the final leg. Do I really want to see another church at that stage, or plan every single meal. Or do I just want to walk around the same streets multiple times, as we end up doing. Researching food can be fun and exhausting at the same time. And by the time you reach the final days of a long trip, you anticipate certain things. By this point, I would have enough Michelin, a lot of seafood, and not enough Galician meat. And if my right hand begins to twitch, I will probably be in need of a burger.

    Speaking of which, it actually finally happened. As a burger lover who’s married to a burger freak lover, we had our first burger in Europe. The stars aligned. I had no plans, we had a big lunch, and it was a Sunday where in Bilbao the siesta extends into the night. Everything seems to be open for lunch and close for the remainder of the day. With that said, I do recommend the truffle burger at Hambueysería Amaren.

    La Viña De Henao

    Not to be confused with another La Viña across the street, and a third La Viña elsewhere in Bilbao. The owner warned us twice about that via email. A narrow, comfortable room, run by a young couple. He’s running the front (by himself!), she’s in the kitchen. A straight forward menu with every item available as a half portion. All our neighbors were locals, some of which enjoying items not on the menu, like snails.

    The superb free Salmorejo and Croquettes to warm the palate were indications of things to come. Like the award winning Russian Salad. Not something I normally order anywhere but hard to pass on a best of Spain winner. Below you can see my new BFF (we ate at his little place a few days earlier) presenting the award to the owner while doing his signature “Garrote”.

    We also loved the marinated raw Sea Bass swimming in creamy Ajoblanco (almond soup). The super comforting Beef ribs in red wine sauce. And one of those perfectly cooked showstopper Octopus. Though I must confess, maybe I’m not a Kokotxa (Hake Cheeks) fan after all, as I absolutely despised them here. I’m fairly sure I had them in Getaria at the great Elkano and elsewhere, but I feel like its still an acquired taste.

    Txakoli Simon

    For your (and ours) Chuletón fix. An institution on the hills above Bilbao. We came with our car right before dropping it off, but I get the sense that part of the experience is getting to Simon without a car. That involves a funicular, nice views of Bilbao from above, and about 10-15 min walk to this meat temple.

    On a Sunday afternoons its a full blown pilgrimage. The extensive property was buzzing with families occupying the loan. If you dont have reservations, you are directed to a picnic table and serve yourself. With reservations, you get full service. We had reservations, but apparently inside an empty covered glassy structure. When I asked if we can be outside, they said no, all booked. It felt like we were being quarantined. But within minutes people started to join, all local families. And within an hour, the room was packed.

    Started with an excellent Chorizo cooked with Cider. Generally I find Chorizo in the US too dry and unremarkable, but this was very flavorful. Red peppers in a surprisingly spicy (for Spain) sauce, also excellent. But too strong to pair with the steak, so we had to finish before the steak arrived.

    The steak was a triumph, except that it came fairly blue. Every steak here comes with a grill for you to grill to your liking. My personal preference is whatever the chef recommends, even if it means rare. In Italy for instance, I often get it rare, even though in the US I opt for Med-Rare. But here I felt the need to cook it for a few seconds more. The meat was just glorious. Plenty of funk, and didnt require much salt. It came with fries which you could cook to a crisp as well. We tried but couldnt finish this.

    Bonus: Not quite on the same level as the other two, but fun nonetheless, La Pizarra Brasa y Barra. Come for the signature Chuleta Nigiri (bottom pic), slightly smoked Chuleta on puffed bread with some sort of aioli. Stay for the Octopus, braised with a dark spicy bbq sauce.

    Categories: Spain | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

    Brooklynites Swooning Over Swoony’s

    Posted on November 9, 2025 by Ziggy

    What do you do when you try a popular place and it’s not up to snuff? You try the sister, naturally. Cafe Spaghetti as the youngsters say these days, was “Mid” for us. Neither here nor there. But it was mostly service related if I recall. Swoony’s, the owner’s follow-up that opened two years ago, got on my radar way before I realized its the sister. Once I did I wasnt in a rush to go.

    But the day finally arrived, and the verdict… its excellent. None of the service issues and better food. Swoony’s is the American version of Cafe Spaghetti. American classics with similar old school elements. The room, pickle Jewish deli plates, funky New Wave hits, contributed to an 80’s vibe. Back then however, we wouldnt even dream about going to Red Hook or Columbia Street nearby.

    The food rundown:

    Whipped Goat Cheese – With Chili crunch, cucumbers, and grilled sourdough. Terrific Stuff. You expect spicy but instead you get a nicely balanced spread with a good amount of crunch.

    Potato Croquettes – I didnt try them but friends claim… Good.

    Creamy Lobster Orzo – One of the signatures. Pretty much what you expect, in a good way. Rich, comforting, with plenty of lobster. Could have used a little less salt, but I’d order again.

    Dorade – With Green beans, potatoes, olives, salsa verde, and lemon. Expertly cooked skin on Dorade with a perfect supporting cast. Definitely Get this.

    Short Rib Au Poivre – Another signature, and probably best dish of the night. Just the kind of texture you expect from two beautiful slabs. The fries are good too, and as I learned many moons ago in Turks and Caicos, fries and Au Poivre is a match made in heaven. Which means, could have used more Au Poivre here.

    French Toast – Skip!

    Conclusion: Go! Nothing outrageous, but pretty decent elevated enough, American comfort food. The burger is another item getting much hype, though there are hundreds of solid burgers out there these days. Good service, decent drinks, and great vibe. The place is fairly popular, and one of the most mentioned on Reddit, so best to reserve

    215 Columbia St, Brooklyn

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    This is Biarritz and Bayonne

    Posted on November 5, 2025 by Ziggy

    A tale of two cities. Only 8 km apart, but two distinctly different cities in Pays Basque. Isolated from the rest of France in more ways than one, although Bordeaux can be reached in a couple of hours. Biarritz International Airport conveniently sitting between the two, is a good starting point for a Basque adventure. Though we opted to fly to San Sebastian which is actually in the town of Hondarribia, close to the border.

    Biarritz is the glitzy, fashionable sister. It ends with “Ritz” after all. But its one of the least if not the least Basque-looking city I’ve seen. Quite the contrast to something like the Saint-Jean-de-Luz close to Spain’s border. A small fishing village that turned into a modern resort town, with a healthy surfing culture. It has a striking coastline dominated by Rocher de la Vierge (Rock of the Virgin). Access to it was closed when we were there due to the bigger than usual waves, but it’s still quite the drama queen from a distance.

    Things began to turn in Biarritz in the mid 19th centaury when Napoleon III built a little summer home for empress Eugénie de Montijo. Today its of course a lavish, but surprisingly affordable, Hôtel du Palais Biarritz. Nearby you have a scenic lighthouse, and Playa De Biarritz, one of several beaches around. Did I mention Biarritz is the surfing capital of France? It’s also a center for thalassotherapy. These surfers need that seawater therapy when they retire.

    For food you got a very happening Halles de Biarritz, food market. And I’ve heard great things about Chéri Bibi. But since we had big dinner plans in Bidart, we took the opportunity to continue our new French tradition. A Brittany style Galette (Buckwheat Crêpe) Complète. You can find plenty of options these days everywhere, but I find the Breizh Café chain fairly reliable.

    Moving on to Bayonne felt like moving to another country. Not quite at first glance as the newer parts felt more of the same. But once you reach the old parts, your jaw slowly drops. Two stunning old towns for the price of one, separated by river Nive. On Monday many of the stores were closed, but that didnt take away from the charm.

    Both Grand Bayonne and Petit Bayonne, the two old towns are worth spending some time in. You got a plethora of food stores especially ham, cheese, and chocolates. Jews escaping the inquisition brought their cocoa beans with them, establishing the roots of a robust chocolate culture today. With that said, the most fun discovery for me was actually… Basque Ketchup. Steak with fries night cant come soon enough.

    Living near Bayonne bridge that connects to Bayonne, New Jersey gave us something to talk about with the locals. Like visiting Verrazzano castle in Tuscany. Locals told us they sometimes struggle when Google sends them to the wrong Bayonne. Are they searching for a Costco?

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    Artean Barra Abierta {San Sebastián} – A David Among Goliaths

    Posted on October 31, 2025 by Ziggy

    A day before the trip, we rewatched an old episode of Bourdain in San Sebastián. In the episode, a local was trying to explain the Spanish Basque fascination with quality. She said, like a Basque Pelota player inspecting the ball left and right to make sure its top quality, they have a similar obsession with food ingredients. Its a different breed. And that’s why San Sebastián is considered the culinary capital of the world.

    Eating bad in San Sebastián I imagine is hard to do. Maybe in the old town there’s some touristy joints that can get away with it, but I doubt many if any exist. The competition is just too intense. And the embarrassment of riches in San Sebastián attracts a certain kind of tourist. Sure, in the age of social media, there’s the FOMO affect with the young traveler. But generally, if you are the “eat to live” instead of “live to eat” kind, San Sebastián wont be on your bucket list. There’s really not a whole lot to see and do here, except eat.

    A Peruvian couple with a healthy culinary resume opened Artean Barra Abierta in the Gros neighborhood in San Sebastian at the end of 2023. It replaced a bar, and still looks like one with its 12 bar seats as your only options. Smart decor, and very intimate. At least until you meet your new friends from Miami and Canada, and its now a party.

    Pound for pound this was the best meal of the trip other than the three Michelin epic we had a coupe of days later. Artean delivered bigger flavors and was more enjoyable than every other place including the Michelin one stars we enjoyed in France. It was also a tremendous value for a meal of this caliber. For the time being at least, its Michelin quality with Bib Gourmand prices.

    The food rundown:

    Scallop Gildas – With the usual Gilda ingredients except raw scallops instead of anchovies, plus roasted tomatoes, pine nuts, and Parmigiano Reggiano. Even though the delicate scallops were mostly lost in the shuffle, this was absolutely delicious.

    Bun – Asian style, steamed in a Bamboo steamer. Filled with Iberian pork, kimchi mayonnaise and pickled beetroot. Outstanding. Just shows you the range of the couple. Its much more than a Peruvian/Basque mashup as some claim. Plenty of Italian and Asian influence as well

    Smoked Steak Tartare – Comes with droplets of Egg yolk sauce and Idiazabal Cheese. Holly smokes this was good. Some of the best I’ve had in recent memory. Hand chopped, well balanced and the smokiness took it to another level.

    Rice paella with duck breast – With mushrooms and aioli. This is baby angels singing stuff. Fantastic texture and lasting flavors throughout, especially if you appreciate a good Socarrat

    Grilled Sirloin – Mushroom puré, egg yolk sauce and coffee foam. A clinic in how to cook the perfect beef. And once you add the rest of the ingredients, pure joy with every morsel.

    Hazelnut and chocolate dessert – Very good. Served inside a coffee bean shaped pod. Simple all considering, but still felt proper.

    Book your flight today before it gets a star.

    Categories: Spain | Tags: , , | 2 Comments

    Bilbao, Part Deux

    Posted on October 27, 2025 by Ziggy

    Bilbao, the de facto capital of Basque Capital is worth at least a few nights. You got one of the most famous museums in the world, a spectacular old town, and a unique food scene. Not to mention the variety of day trips like Gaztelugatxe, Dragonstone on Games of Thrones. Spending a week wouldnt be that far fetched.

    Regardless of how many days you have, consider spending some time with Mikel from Tours By Basques. Whether its a better understanding of the Pintxo scene, or a day trip to Rioja or Gaztelugatxe, he’s your man. Note, I never ever have ads or affiliated links on this site. I make zero point zero $ here. I just like the dude.

    This was our second time in Bilbao and first stay. We spent two nights at hotel Miro, with a side view of the Guggenheim where we witnessed the puppy construction progress. In our two days we saw the famed Puppy go from covered entirely in scaffolding to being out in all its glory covered in fall flowers. Below are both summer (from 7 years ago) and fall Puppy. The Bilbao Guggenheim will make you appreciate contemporary art like no other museum I know. Its jaw-dropping outside and in.

    This time the focus was on the Abando area, an extravagant mix of high end shopping, pintxo bars, and gourmet food stores. Only noticeable once you put your head down and stop staring at the architecture. For an industrial city, not too long ago, the city today is an architectural powerhouse, starting with Guggenheim, and the striking bridges.

    The old quarter (Casco Viejo) of course requires at least a few hours. Once you consume enough Cidra and Txikoli, consider taking a stroll through the cultural center Azkuna Zentroa and its 43 colorful pillars. If it results in too much trance, and sensory overload, avoid the roof. The views from it arent that interesting anyway, but the center is fascinating.

    For food other than Pintxos, consider taking the funicular to Txakoli Simón, a Txuleta temple in the mountains. More on that on another post. You’ll most likely be surrounded by locals at La Viña De Henao, run by a young couple who will dazzle your taste buds. Meat dishes are better than the fish, and some of the best Octopus I’ve had in a while. La Pizarra Brasa y Barra is like a fun pinxto crawl under one roof. With aged meat playing an important role here, there’s even a fairly healthy burger scene, with Hambueysería Amaren leading the charge. Upgrade the beef for 4 euros or so and try the Italian style with truffles.

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    Xixario {Orio} – A Legend Among Legends

    Posted on October 23, 2025 by Ziggy

    When Elkano in Getaria started the whole Turbot craze in 1964, in Orio they were already perfecting the grilled Besugo (Red Sea Bream) for around 10 years. More and more joined Elkano which was awarded a Michelin star eventually, while the old timers in Orio opted to keep it simple. On your bucket list, you want to have both.

    Joxe Mari in Orio is the Besugo pioneer. The technique passed down from generation to generation with some minor tweaking. Today, the grandson runs Asador Joxe Mari, located steps away from Xixario, who became the second Besugo master, over 50 years ago. Current owner, Juan Carlos Beltrán from Tixuana was cooking them for 13 years at Xixario before buying the place when no other family member wanted to continue. He’s still grilling them today, though would rather talk about the weather in NYC and Home Alone while doing so.

    Today there are 5 Besugo temples in Orio, and the technique is more or less the same. Grill the fish until its almost done, and finish with a sizzling hot mixture of olive oil, garlic and vinegar. At a cost of around 100 euros, its not cheap, hence choosing the right place is key. I was concerned that the recent fame from Somebody Feed Phil may have spoiled Asador Joxe Mari even more. Xixario felt like a safer, no frills, choice.

    Just four dishes in this feast. We started with an excellent tomato and tuna salad. So simple yet so good when the ingredients are top notch. Grilled shrimp, one of the reasons I picked Xixario were sublime. So sweet and addictive.

    And that Besugo, outrageous to say the least. Meaty, vinegary, yet very light. You could really feel the vinegar at first but it settles down quickly into a beautiful harmony with every morsel. Washed it down with a nice local Txakoli. Even their homemade dessert (like a Basque Napoleon with ice cream) was fantastic.

    When we arrived at 1:30, we were as usual, the first. By the time we left the place was buzzing with locals. The owner / grill master speaks English, though no problems communicating with the rest of the staff. Add the Zumaia cliffs and Getaria (which I’ve written about before) to your date with the Besugo, for a glorious day trip from San Sebastian or wherever you are staying.

    Categories: Spain | Tags: , , , , | 4 Comments

    Choko Ona – A “Good Place” in Espelette

    Posted on October 18, 2025 by Ziggy

    We are back from another trip to Basque Country. This time spending some time in Pays Basque Français. Spoiler alert: Its as stunning as Spain’s Basque if not more. Filled with striking old towns and picturesque villages like the home of this gem. I get the sense that younger people flock to San Sebastian and Bilbao due to social media pressure, while the older folk that know a thing or two, keep the French Basque a secret. Dont let them win!

    When you do visit the cities and villages of Pays Basque, one of the first things you notice is Espelette everywhere. Espelette stores, Espelette spices, magnets, and other products. That’s because you are not too far from the famed village of Espelette, home to the renowned Espelette peppers. You’ll see the peppers hanging in random places, and the peppers heavily utilized in local cooking. Even when you order something as simple as a Gallete (Buckwheat crepes from Brittany) in Biarritz, chances are you’ll get it topped with Espelette butter. Even without the fame, Espelette is one of the most beautiful villages in France.

    Choko Ona (“Good Place” or “Good Corner”) is just another reason to visit this village. A one Michelin that acts like one but priced like a Bib Gourmet. Smartly furnished space, housed in an 18th century house that today looks more like someone’s private home. One cool feature is the entire back side of the house can be wide open, overlooking their garden.

    A creative menu featuring seasonal local ingredients. All handled by a young staff that speaks English and makes you feel at home. The only thing I didnt appreciate was sitting in front of a mirror ;). We changed spots midway much to the horror of the entire establishment.

    We opted for the 4 courser, which of course was more like 6 or 7. Flawless to say the least. To start, in classic Michelin, outstanding tidbits to dazzle your palate. Then an Onion tart, pretty much just layers of braised onions topped with caramelized jus. One-note but an addictive one. Onion hater Mrs Ziggy cleaned her plate.

    Then the most beautiful, delicate… Jewfish! Not an autocorrect. Maigre as its called here, aka Meagre, Croaker, Drum Fish, and other names, including yes, Jewfish apparently. An outdated name for some reason (I’m Jewish so I’m allowed to joke about this, but you are not) pretty much everywhere except Australia and other places. Regardless of what you call it, this was superb,

    Kintoa pork, perfectly cooked medium-rare, super tender and juicy. Served with a leek topped with some sort of pesto, along with saffron pilaf rice and more delicious Jus. Kintoa is a local breed. Its called Kintoa because back in the day local farmers had to pay the king a fifth (Kintoa) of their pigs as tax. Hazelnut dessert, and more glorious tidbits was the perfect finish. Another highlight was the Brioche with, what else, Espelette butter.

    One thing I really liked about Choko Ona is the pacing and the amount of food served. It should be more common especially in Michelin places, but not often you leave a tasting menu, satisfied, not full, while consuming plenty. We were still able to enjoy a multi course dinner that evening.

    Categories: France | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

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