Wear comfortable shoes.
Ok, this is a joke. I may have touched on this in the past, but I still see this advice for Lisbon and just about every non-beach destination in the world. Is there a human left that doesnt already know this by now? Women think about this as soon as they book flights. If you give this advice to Mrs Z, she will give you the smackdown and show you all the blisters she got just today. And dont get me started on “Dont forget your camera”. Here are 10 real tips that you may or may not know by now
Dont sweat about location
People often ask for the best location on social media sites, and I’m still not sure what is the right answer. Its really not much different than any other capital. The sites and attractions are fairly spread out, and you will have cons and pros wit just about every area. This time we opted to stay at BessaHotel Liberdade and were very happy with the location, especially with the proximity to shopping. Its still good value for us Americans, and its got to be one of the best showers in Europe. With the built in bathroom speakers it felt like you are in an Irene Cara music video. What a feeling!
Reserve the most popular yesterday
Unlike say Paris, NYC, and much of the world, restaurant reservations are available months in advance in Portugal. For haute joints like Alma, its understandable that it could be a tough table to get, but even simpler non Michelin spots like O Velho Eurico, can be booked solid months out. Its a pain in the ass but worth seeking them out. Same advice for Porto.
Try Goan
Lisbon has a very large Bengali and Indian population. It was interesting to walk some of the streets like Rua do Benformoso and see nothing but Bengali and Indian joints all over. But since Goa, the Western Indian state, was once a Portuguese colony, there’s also that connection and history. Its not just a history listen, but the food is pretty darn good. Once you have eaten your way through all the seafood delights that Portugal has to offer, this is more than a nice change of pace. You got the great Jesus é Goês, Zuari, and many more options all over the city.
Researching Pasteis is mostly a waste of time
Years ago it was more or less clear that if you wanted the best Pasteis you had to go to the source, Pasteis de Belem. But these days, with so many bakeries and chains opening throughout the years, the competition increased and opinions vary. Many swear by Manteigaria, and many still stand firmly behind the royalty of Belem. But to me the most important ingredient is freshness, and that’s a little difficult to predict. For us, the most consistently fresh Pasteis came from Fábrica da Nata, in various Lisbon and Sintra locations. Regardless, if you are a food enthusiast, a visit to Pasteis de Belem is still a must.
Skip the flashy Sardines and do the Conserveira
Good sardines are expensive and hard to find in the US. In Porto and Lisbon you’ll find some very curious gimmicky instagramable sardine shops that may even feature a musician playing a musical instrument in a Phantom of the Opera type setting. I cant say to the quality of their cans, as I rather put my money on an old school, no frills, 4th generation family business like Conserveira de Lisboa. Its a place you go to buy canned seafood, not to browse around. And there’s literally nothing to see anyway except for your sardine consultant/salesmen. It’s the Di Palo’s of Lisbon. Lines can be long but its worth it
Spend time outside the center
The biggest change in Portugal today vs 10 years ago is that it became much more touristy. Its a very hot, trendy destination at the moment on top of the post pandemic revenge travel thats still ongoing. Dont be surprised to be surrounded by visitors all over the center. Its important then to spend some time outside the tourist zones, in areas like Príncipe Real, Campo de Ourique, or Ajuda. You’ll even see a big change in food prices. Bonus tip: Try getting to Churrasqueira do Marquês for grilled chicken, before walking to Belem. You’ll most likely be the only tourist there.
The hills are alive with the sound of pain
You read about them, you look at pictures, and you still arrive without care and proper plan to see every neighborhood and every view point in one day. Dont underestimate the hills, and some of the Miradouros (sponsored by Lisbon’s coalition of knee replacement specialists). They may wear you out by day one. Some require more effort than others. And if I have to choose just one Miradouro, it would be Miradouro de Santa Luzia in Alfama. And remember of course to wear comfortable shoes!
Uber is your friend, not the tram
Prices certainty increased over the years, but Uber is still quite cheap, especially when compared to a large USA city. They are quick, reliable, and sometimes you get a chance to meet a local. Its not so much a way to replace a tram, which is more of an attraction. But one look at the miserable faces of tram 28 riders stuck in traffic in Alfama is all you need. It’s also relatively expensive, crowded, and requires careful planning to avoid the queues, and pick pocketers..
You dont have to wait for Santa Justa Lift
I dont know who needs to hear this, but its still amazing to see long lines to Santa Justa, even though the walk up is 5 minutes. Take Rua do Carmo down, make a right, another right, and look for the stairs up to Carmo Convent. Unless you are already up, coming from Bairro Alto, just head to Carmo. If you must take the lift, the line down is much shorter.
Go on a Bordalo II hunting
This is a supremely talented “trash artist”. He converts junk into beautiful animal sculptures. You can find his work throughout the city, but some are a bit more difficult to get to. As of this writing to my knowledge you got the The Cat, “Sapo de Lixo”, Monkey, Panda, the new birds on the corner of Rua do Carmo and de Santa Justa by the lift, Raposa, and the Raccoon. If you can find them all, you’ll get a free annual subscription to EWZ.
Enjoy Lisboa!
Eating With Ziggy 