Razor Clams at Osteria alle Testiere
If I knew I will not see them again in the next 7 days, I would have ordered 5 more of these if they let me. Simple yet so addictive in one of the premier seafood destinations in Venice. And I could have easily subbed this mention with the phenomenal Gnocchetti with shrimp
Octopus at Osteria Alla Frasca
Its a lesson in texture, and complimentary liquid. Its served with two purees – potato, and cherry tomato for you to play with. The outrageous Pasta Alla Frasca should be mentioned as well, in a place that not only redefines “Hidden gem”, but feels like Uncle Leo’s house
Bosega at Osteria Enoteca Ai Artisti
Its always fun bumping into fish I never heard of. This Adriatic beauty is firm, delicate, and as expected here perfectly cooked. Served with Jerusalem artichokes chips, and an oniony vinaigrette that even onion haters can enjoy. Ai Artisti is one of our favorite new discoveries on this trip.
Seafood Carpaccio at Antiche Carampane
A standout among standouts in a seafood mecca. There was buttery tuna, seabass, Sicilian red shrimp, Adriatic Langoustine and more local canal residents. The seafood pastas here delivered big again too. Repeat #1 for us on this trip.
Octopus and Potato Salad at Trattoria Alla Fontana
When you stay for more than 96 hours this time, you discover Venetian specialties you didnt know exist. Like the Octopus and Potato salad which quickly won us over (until we had a stinky one). At this quiet, canal side Cannaregio joint, this was the freshest and most balanced of them all. And a not too shabby risotto.
Spaghetti with shrimp and Wild Mushrooms at Trattoria Da Jonny
Ok, I admit, I’m fishing here a little. But this was a very solid pasta, at least on par with many such pastas throughout this trip, with the delicate mushrooms setting it apart. But the goal is to mention the one place where we were the only tourists. Try the Tiramisu too
Mixed Seafood at Trattoria alla Maddalena in Mazzorbo (Burano)
This brilliant combination of flavors and textures probably led the trip in Wows. Various kinds of large shrimp, small shrimp with grilled white polenta. There was an amazing Bacalau-like spread made from a local fish called Dentice. A fresher than fresh octopus salad. And something they made from eggs of Sepia that tasted like crab that I couldnt get enough of. Fantastic value to boot, and another big reason to visit Burano.
Baked Scallops with breading and carrots at Salvmeria
Notice a trend here? This post is not for the seafood haters, many of whom probably stopped reading by now after seeing all this raw footage. “Best meat dishes in Venice”, is a blog post I may have to reserve for another life. Salvmeria (yes with a V) is a newish bar attracting mostly locals due to the location. A location (Via Garibaldi) worth checking out.
Meatballs at Vedova
Ok, I’ll throw a bone for the meat lovers still reading. Although just about everyone, including accountants may find these delightful. Its a dense filling of mostly bread, but so satisfyingly salty. This is what this widow (Vedova) is known for.
Tiramisu at L’Osteria di Santa Marina (top).
The older I get, the more I appreciate a proper Tiramisu at the end of the meal. I have never had so many great looking and tasting Tiramisus in one week, but this last one topped them all. Here its deconstructed with waffles and slightly frozen cream resulting in different mesmerizing morsels. A surprising hit out of many from this old timer.
Bonus: daPrette in Padua.
The only thing we ate in Padua was a targeted snack. Small Calzone or Panzerotto, which is dough stuffed with different combinations like ham cheese, tomato. Talking about a fresh, super satisfying snack. It’s not stuffed like a NY calzone but the dough is so delicious. Great stop for a quick bite.
The best tip I can give you when you go to Venice with kids is this: Start planning your return trip without them. Meanwhile you scout, you observe, you take notes, and study. And by the time you return you can pretend to live like a local for just a few days, and do crazy things like have a full meal before dinner. You may even be proficient enough to able to spell Cicchetti without Googling, like the pro that you are. Cicchetti (Chee-ke-tee) is Venice’s answer to the aperitivo (Aperitif). Its the Venetian happy hour. They are served in bars called Bacari, usually 5 to 7 pm, but some are open throughout the day for the rest of us tourists.
Salvmeria – The newest kids on Via Giuseppe Garibaldi block isnt too concerned about its spelling on Google (Yes, its a V in there) because its main aim is locals, not so much tourists. Although far removed from the tourist route, this is one of the most picturesque streets in Venice. The clever assortment of wine goes as far as Moldova. Try the Salumi, and baked scallops with breading and carrots if they have
Fritoin del Gondolier – Its more of a street food shack that can be as convenient as Cicchetti. Here you can try some fried goodies like Mozzarella in Carrozza (a fried sandwich with fillings like ham) and fried cream squares on a stick. Those creamy squares can work well with hot chocolate from Vizio Virtu not too far away
Eating With Ziggy 