Its 2024, and you would think by now we should have Portuguese Churrasqueiras spinning Rotisserie chicken in every neighborhood like in cities all over our northern neighbor. Not only we dont have that, but Portuguese food in general just never took off outside of maybe Newark, NJ. Szechuan, Thai, Korean and more took off in a spectacular way. Even Birria, something that no one knew anything about 5 years ago, can now be found in every hood. In other words, the title is not a stretch.
As I already mentioned in the latest Z-List update, Leitao is my favorite discovery of the year so far. And sadly, I dont usually discover them this way. I noticed Leitao while exploring the area, as opposed to the usual way, exploring social media. The first thing I noticed was the most ambitious Portuguese menu I’ve seen outside of Portugal, by quite a margin.
Leitao opened during the pandemic by a chef/owner from Braga. And my guess is that they opted to skip the mandatory payment to the social media mafia, opting for the good ol’ word of mouth instead. It probably took some time, but by the look of things, it paid off. In both my visits so far including at off hours, the place was mobbed, and many seem to be repeaters. We repeated two weeks after the first visit. Something as rare as summer Olympics.
The closest I got to Braga was the stunning Bom Jesus. Equally as spectacular, and maybe even as spiritual to some, is that Leitao menu which reads like the Best of Portugal. It even includes the namesake, an entire Suckling Pig meal for only $400. From my experience the Portuguese do it better than the Spaniards. After trying much of the menu, some winners emerged, and zero duds. Big menus can mean big problems, plenty of thrills, or both. Much depends on the head chef ability to handle it. So far so good…
Porco Preto – If I have to pick one unsung hero that is not getting the proper credit here. Well marbled Iberico Ribs cooked with wine and topped with a toasted garlic and chili mix. Easily falls off the bone and supremely flavorful. An absolute must.
Camarao ao Alho – Beautiful plump shrimp on top of a thick(er) Bourbon, Garlic, Lobster sauce. Comes with a nice surprise, a basket of fresh Baguettes from Orwasher bakery.
Shishito Peppers – Heaps of smoked paprika and chili, sitting on a thin, almost hidden layer of yoghurt. They provide spice levels on the menu, an this is listed as a 5. While not too spicy by any stretch, its spicy enough to affect other dishes.
Robalo – Another must that we had to have on both visits so far is this butterflied Seabass. Big flavors from the spinach sauce, EVOO, and smoked paprika rub on top. Reminded me of the famous fish at Contramar in Mexico City rather than anything we had in Portugal.
Piri Piri Chicken – Not the most tender chicken in town, but tender enough, flavor packed, and probably the most popular dish here.
Salad de Polvo (top)- You know it will be good just by the look and initial touch. The classic mammoth Portuguese no frills but plenty of thrills octopus. Outside of maybe Newark, not so easy to find in the Metrolopitan area. One of two solid Polvos on the menu.
Francesinha – If you never had a Francesinha you are in for a treat. Not quite Porto-esque, but not bad at all. An elaborate sandwich of Fillet Mignon, chorizo and salami covered with melted mozzarella and beer sauce. I shared it with three others, and still was able to taste plenty. Not sure if you can get it topped with egg as you can get in Porto.
Polvo – Unlike the salad, the “Polvo” is sliced and comes with fried potatoes and chorizo. Something I’d order again, even though I’m not sure I prefer over the Polvo salad.
Pasteis de Nata – I’m not even sure what other desserts they offer after seeing these babies being paraded all over the place. They look a little burnt but they dont taste like it. Flaky and fantastic.
Drinks are solid as well. Good Beer menu, and Portuguese inspired cocktails like Porto Tonico.
Leitao
547 Hudson St (West Village)
Recommended Dishes: All of the above especially the Porco Preto, Robalo and any of the Octopus
Eating With Ziggy 