Posts Tagged With: food

Corima is the Absolute Best Mexican in Chinatown

Posted on March 25, 2025 by Ziggy

I’m being very careful with my “Bests” as you can see, and even more careful with the “Absolute Bests”. Anyone remembers the Absolute Best lists from Grub Street? Fun to look at, but very very wrong. It’s NYC. Unless you’ve been to even half of the hundreds of bagel places, you cant declare a best, not alone, absolute best. Just swing by the aptly named BAGELS R US in Staten Island to see the snaking lines on the weekends. You will never see it on any list because influencers and publishers dont travel to these corners of the city.

But I’m fairly confident you wont find better Mexican in Manhattan’s Chinatown, or any of our roughly 5 Chinatowns for that matter. First, its an exceptional, well deserved, one star Michelin. Second, its the only Mexican in Chinatown. When you see it on Allen street, you do a double take at your Google Maps, and then look for the business sign. Its right near Manhattan Bridge, and contrary to some claiming part of it is in Lower East Side, it’s very much inside Chinatown. The only time I’m in this corner of the city when I’m not looking for Chinese food is when I go to the excellent Michaeli Bakery.

Corima is an ambitious project, opened about a year ago by Fidel Caballero and his wife. It took less than a year to receive a Michelin Star, which is not so easy, especially for a place that’s not Japanese or French. Fidel Caballero is a Contra alum but more importantly a student of the legend three Michelin Martín Berasategui in Basque Country. Corima I believe is his first baby. Always interesting to see mega experienced chefs finally put their signatures somewhere.

Our meal in Corima was almost flawless. The only challenging aspect was deciding whether to go with the ever changing tasting menu or a la carte. After much deliberation, I opted for the latter. The two options are very different, as there’s usually only one dish in both, most likely the terrific bread. Without being overly familiar with Caballero, an ever changing tasting menu feels more of a gamble, and its somehow reflected in reviews. While some tried and true hits are only available a ala carte. But then you have people like Ryan Sutton swearing by the tasting menu

A rundown of the dishes, beginning with the question many have been asking for the past year.

Is the infamous $9 Tortilla worth it? YES!!.. and no!! Its a solid, thin sourdough flatbread, like Lavash or the Druze bread if you had it at Gazala’s on my Hell’s Kitchen tours. But since its Mexican it’s “Tortilla”. Probably made with some sort of fat. Good enough to eat on its own, but even better with the accompanied butter where they add roasted onions, mushrooms and chili to it. Not worth $9 but appropriately priced bread course for an ambitious one star Michelin where you spend roughly $120-150 pp. Supply and demand no brainer for the lone single digit item on top of the menu.

Beef Cecina Tlayuda – Superb cured beef. Like a moist beef carpaccio. More of a sum of all parts situation with the crunchy tortilla, Edamame Guac, and a sprinkle of Chapulines (Grasshoppers) so you dont forget where you are. Decent size for a small dish.

Tetela (top) – Replacing the fried Quesadilla on the menu is this fried masa based triangle with flavors reminiscent of a Pupusa. It’s stuffed with Maitake, Quesillo (Oaxacan cheese) and winter greens, and topped with thin truffle puree that looks like too much but once you have it, not enough. The only flaw was that the greens were not evenly spread out. Get this!

Monkfish – As good as the smaller plates were, the bigger were even better. Perfectly cooked firm monkfish, topped with paper thin potatoes, and a foamy seafood bisque. Just wished the fish was a little warmer.

Duck Enmoladas – More Excellence. Like duck enchilada topped with Black Garlic Mole and Cotija cheese foam. All kinds of beautiful flavors and textures with the beautiful duck reigning supreme. A spoonful of pure bliss.

Desserts didnt quite continue the momentum. Took a major step back in fact. When you feel nothing can go wrong and you order two instead of the usual one. Chocoflan with truffles with real truffles, not chocolate truffles was the main offender. Truffles dont belong in desserts, full stop. Give me one of those Mexican flans with caramel any day. The Funnel cake with roasted pears and pistachio was more like it, but considering the place, still quite basic.

The drinks were fine. Out of the 4, one clear winner, the Tequilla based Sinaloa Sling that she had. The rest not super balanced but fine. Still, this was a very enjoyable meal, helped in part by Ivan, one of those super waiters you just want to talk to and know better. The entire staff was in fact great. According to the wife who had a better look at the action, half of the staff featured “Porn Mustaches”. After 32 years I’m still learning new things about her.

Corima
3 Allen St (Chinatown)
Recommended Dishes: Tortilla, Beef Cecina Tlayuda, Tetela, Monkfish, Duck Enmoladas

Categories: Chinatown, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Mtskheta Cafe – Eating Well, Spelling Pourly

Posted on February 25, 2025 by Ziggy

Mtskheta, although officially my favorite Georgian in NYC, I still need to Google the name every time I write it. I suspect by the time I finish this post it may change, but this could be just another name on a long list of many that I cant remember how to spell. I stayed at Rendezvous Bay Hotel twice and I still doubt myself. How many T’s are in Werkstatt. I’ve only been there 12 times. As long as I dont confuse my kids name, I’m golden. Oh wait, I do that too. I recently started playing Mahjong on the phone to improve my memory, and even that I had to Google just now.

Mtskheta is named after a city just north of the capital, Tbilisi. If you just replace the “kh” with a throat clearing “ch” sound, its easier to pronounce. Coincidentally, or not, Mtskheta Cafe is just north of US’s Russian capital, Brighton Beach. I mentioned Mtskheta Cafe on other sites like Hungry Onion, but never here. Honestly, the percentage of readers that could manage a meal at this location isnt very high, but I do have some Brooklynites reading the posts.

This is as old school as it gets. They dont have a website for me to link. To reserve a table I have to call. Wines are under $30 a bottle. And the clientele is as local as it gets. When I said to the waiter to say hello to a friend who frequents the place, he said, “which Levani, we have three Levanis that come here”. In all my visits to Mtskheta, our table was the only one not speaking Georgian. I do know some words, but a Georgian restaurant would be the last place in the city, I would practice them.

I think the only thing missing in Mtskheta is a Salt Bae style sprinkling of pomegranate table side. Pomegranate and walnuts are two Georgian staples as you can see here. On this night we had Spinach with walnuts, eggplant with walnuts, walnuts with walnuts, Georgian Salad with walnuts. Needless to say our group of 8, under my command, covered much of the menu, including many Georgian classics.

From the earlier dishes, the only one I’d probably not order again is the spinach. Though I’m pretty sure I said the same thing last time. Its that memory thing again. The dish is fine, just a tad too dense, not creamy enough. Unlike something like the cheesy Khachapuri, always a crowd pleaser. The eggplant remains an absolute must. And the Mchadi (cornbread) with cheese, doing its best Arepa impersonation also moved itself to the must category.

But the one dish that separates Mtskheta from other Georgians in the city is Djurdjari. Either that or Mtskheta is the only one spelling it that way. Either way, I havent seen anything like it on any other menu. Liver, intestines and other meat parts cooked with cumin and other spices. Its a glorious mix of flavors and textures, but not for everyone.

Kupati, the famous fat Georgian sausage is always outstanding. Potatoes with mushrooms, more of a Russian staple, is fairly basic, but a no brainer order with a large group. Same with Ostri, a comforting beef stew with nicely spiced tomato sauce. Fried chicken cooked with garlic sauce is the Georgian answer to Gambas al Ajillo. And the Chicken Kebab here is as tender and juicy as it gets.

For dessert its not a matter of what to pick, but how many Napoleons. While I personally prefer the moist, mushier style, my group even ordered more of this one. Add some cheap Georgian wine, and the feeling of eating in an extended living room is complete. Cant recommend Mtskheta enough.

Mtskheta Cafe
2568 86th St (Brooklyn)
Recommended Dishes: Djurdjari, Mchadi, Khachapuri, Eggplant with walnuts, Kupati, chicken with garlic sauce, Ostri, Chicken Kebab, Napoleon

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Kalaya {Philly} – Pilgrimage Worthy

Posted on February 7, 2025 by Ziggy

The last season of Chef’s Table was both exciting and upsetting. At least they ended with the upsetting part allowing us to enjoy the show until that point. The last episode was about a restaurant in Mexico City that proudly shows sensitive political stances on the menu. Not sure I would like to live in a world where every restaurant or business I support shows where they stand on certain issues, some of which may be sensitive to some groups. We go out to be entertained, not preached. We have CNN and FOX News for that.

Compared to the last episode, the Kalaya episode was wildly refreshing. Not only for the great looking food but the owner’s bubbly personality, and her story. I immediately went to Google Maps to mark it only to find out its already marked. Why havent I visited until now? I ran out of daughters (that might go to school there), and my love affair with the Philly Cheesesteak never really changed. I was so enamored with one particular handsome beast (John’s Roast Pork) that it took me ages to even try another.

Kalaya not too long ago moved to the up and coming Fishtown. A fitting name for a new culinary powerhouse, especially if you stretch the border a little to include places like Laser Wolf. The place has the look and feel of a sprawling well oiled machine that’s quite far from your typical Thai. Great food, ample lighting, efficient service, and strong drinks. What else a boy can ask for. Dumplings shaped like birds?

The dumplings at Kalaya are the exception to the rule. Get them for the look, and hopefully you’ll enjoy the taste. The signature bird shaped dumplings with caramelized cod and preserved radish had a mild interesting funk but didnt exactly blow me away. The flower shaped chicken dumplings had a more agreeable flavor and texture. But the biggest surprise was how tiny they were. You could easily kill two birds with one bite.

While I didnt really explore the Appetizers column, I get the sense that Kalaya’s strength is with large entrees. A perfectly steamed whole Branzino topped with all sorts of delicate goodies was pure joy with every morsel. A fall off the bone Lamb Shank on an outrageous, well balanced Massaman curry, with potatoes, onions and almonds was fall off the chair wowzer. One we couldnt finish. The silky Cabbage side was another winner.

Rarely you see great looking desserts at Thai places. The mammoth shaved ice is a show stopper, but our shrinking stomachs went for the more than fine Thai Tea Tiramisu. I also rarely talk about drinks here because they are either not memorable or something I can do at home. The Lum Yong drink was neither. An unforgettable blend of Gins, Coconut, Lemongrass, lime and spices. Go!

Kalaya
4 W Palmer St, Philadelphia
Recommended Dishes: Both Dumplings, Lamb Shank Massaman, Branzino, Cabbage, Tiramisu

Categories: Philadelphia | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Fiaschetteria Pistoia – Under the Village Sun

Posted on January 31, 2025 by Ziggy

Just your friendly reminder that Fiaschetteria Pistoia is still awesome. You dont survive this long off Ave C without doing something right. And that something is the closest NYC has to a Tuscan Trattoria. When the owners of Pistoia opened this location in early 2017, they knew how to cook one thing, really well. The cuisine of Pistoia. That’s where they lived and owned a restaurant, just outside of Florence. That means Tuscan classics like the bready Pappa Al Pomodoro, Crostini with liver, Pici Cacio e pepe, and other fresh pastas.

Speaking of which (fresh pastas), when I walk inside Pistoia with a group, I know exactly where I want to sit. Facing the pasta making station. Sort of homefield advantage since I’m usually the only one who knows exactly where it is. I can think of very few places, Ulivo one, that offers a selection of high quality fresh pastas in all shapes and sizes. In fact, other than the occasional special, they only offer one Secondi, Veal Scaloppine, which is safe to skip.

Concentrate on the things Pistoia does well, some of which is best in the business variety. My “recommended dishes” here is one of the longest in the EWZ universe. Start with the exceptional Prosciutto San Daniele, or “proshoot” if you are dining with a Brooklynite. The Sformatino is another must. Wonderfully creamy Zucchini flan. Adding the classic Crostini Toscani to recommended list.

Too many great pastas on the menu, so best to bring friends, in-laws, etc. I hosted a wild party there once. By wild I mean some ordered two drinks and there was very minimal weather talk. The Tagliatelle al Tartufo is a new discovery. As expected for $34, its mostly truffle sauce base, but its incredibly satisfying. Another new one is Gnocchi with Spare Rib Ragu. Although the small Gnocchi could have been firmer, the familia had no complaints and I’d order it again.

In Tuscany, Cacio e Pepe is done with the thicker and chewier Pici, and after all these years, Pistoia seemed to perfect their version. In other places it may not be peppery enough, too creamy, or not creamy enough. Same goes for their Tiramisu. I crave it after an Italian meal as such, and it so often disappoints. The Panna Cotta, this time with a berry sauce is another winner. Go!

Original Post

Fiaschetteria Pistoia
647 E 11th (Off C), East Village
Recommended Dishes: Prosciutto San Daniele, Sformatino, Pappa al Pomodoro, Crostini Toscani, Spaghetti, Pappardelle, Maccheroni, Picci Cacio e peppe, Gnocchi, Tagliatelle al Tartufo, Tiramisu, Panna Cotta

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

RUA Thai – More Awesomeness on Smith

Posted on January 14, 2025 by Ziggy

Smith Street in Brooklyn is having a moment, again. Very few people know that Smith Street was Brooklyn’s original Restaurant Row, before greedy landlords brought things to a halt around 2016. Any locals here remember Saul? The first Brooklyn restaurant to receive a Michelin star, literally putting Smith St on the map, for me at least. The run lasted less than a decade.

RUA Thai is one of a plethora of eateries responsible for the revival and at the same time early revival casualties. Popular places like the fiery BYOB (Bring Your Own Bounty) Ugly Baby, and FOB Filipino either priced out or lost their luster amidst the International expansion. When you look closer today, Smith Street is covering the International scene, from Ramen to Mexican to French, like very few NYC streets. Last month I told you about “Stupid Good” Bar Bete, one of the more interesting new arrivals on Smith.

On the initial glance, RUA might look like just another Thai, not terribly different than the rest. You got all the rainbow color curries, the usual wok suspects, Drunken Noodles of course, crab fried rice and just about every Thai dish known to man. NYC man at least. But looking under the hood, you find a playful menu with plenty of signatures by a NYC Thai veteran. Chef/owner Kornpon Theeraumpornkul grew up around the floating markets of Ratchaburi where he got much of his inspirations.

With such an extensive menu, the three of us just scratched the surface. Other than Mrs Z’s uneven “Lychee Tini” there was no dud in the house. With drinks, any disappointment is usually met with some approval of my own bartending skills. Especially when it comes to Lychee Martinis as she’ll attest. Is there a patting myself on the back emoji?

Started with Shumai-like Dumplings that were above average, and way above once you dipped them in the accompanied curry sauce. I could drink this like a smoothie. The fried wings were ladened with addictive larb seasoning, featuring pleasant lime and chili notes. But the star early on was the signature Shrimp Donuts. Not particularly distinct flavor wise, but quite unique and tasty nonetheless.

The Pad Keep Mao (Drunken Noodles) is above average. Although I really need to stop ordering this with a protein other than seafood. I’ve had the seafood version at RUA on a lunch visit once and it was outstanding. Another signature is the Mama Tom Yum Grilled River Prawns with noodles and veggies spilling out of the Mama bucket. Yes, get this. Good crab fried rice as well although I regret not getting something a bit more interesting for the same price like the Crying Tiger.

“No Dessert Tonight” was code for “We are very busy and understaffed”. While it felt like they were understaffed, especially from our vantage in the front, it was still remarkable that two people somehow managed to run the front while helping the back at the same time. One of the servers handled the bar, took our orders, and spent significant time in the kitchen. Less than a third of the number of employees we find in similar size joints in NYC. That’s one way to survive Smith Street.

RUA Thai
204 Smith St, Brooklyn (Cobble Hill)
Recommended Dishes: Fried wings, Shrimp Donuts, Shrimp and chicken dumplings, Drunken Noodles, Mama Tom Yum Grilled River Prawns

Categories: Brooklyn, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Osteria Imperfetta {Guarene} – Almost Perfect!

Posted on January 9, 2025 by Ziggy

How do you criticize a place called Osteria Imperfetta? How do you criticize a picture perfect Vitello Tonnato shaped like an apple. You cant, but for different reasons. You cant criticize anything about the restaurant as any imperfection is well advertised. No one forced you to go there. You can simply agree with the premise or argue that the name is misleading.

Osteria Imperfetta is my favorite discovery of the last trip to the Langhe. An extremely talented and capable staff awaits, and all you need to do is arrive in one piece. I’ve driven in Italy many times. In fact I prefer a car in much of Europe and generally choose destinations where cars are handy. But driving from La Morra to Guarene at night is quite the hair-raising experience even though its only 25 minutes. A local who moved in recently from Naples admitted that its an adjustment. I can still hear that truck.

The imperfect Osteria opened during the pandemic by two brothers. One runs the front while the other the kitchen, with extensive high end experience including the coveted Piazza Duomo. A young, energetic staff that makes you feel welcomed (not a guarantee for tourists usually). If they are not happy to work there, they do a splendid job fooling the patrons. The atmosphere in the cave-like room was very pleasant, with a surprisingly high number of families. You know you are an American tourist in Europe when you dine earlier than families with little children.

The trio of antipasti alone is worth the price of admission. Vitello Tonnato of course, peppers stuffed with tuna, capers and anchovies that may have stole the show within the show, and yet another sublime Fassona tartare. I may not be able to enjoy French style or any kind of Tartare anytime soon. Maybe a Tartar-less January will help, adding to my New Year resolution, dry Mondays.

Yet another outstanding Tajarin with Bra sausage ragu. So light, seemingly simple, yet addictive. The Maialino here is a specialty, and for good reason, albeit could have been a little crispier. The baked lamb however is closer to perfect in flavor and texture. All washed down with a fine Barbera by the glass. We came to Piedmont to enjoy the Nebbiolo, Barolo, Barbaresco but found a newfound appreciation for Barbera.

We rarely order two desserts but couldn’t pass on a couple of them here after much deliberation with the staff, and seeing the items parade all over the room. A trio of hazelnut creations and the lightest, silkiest panna cotta you’ll ever encounter. The latter gets the nod, but I’d try both.

A pretty flawless meal from start to finish, and one of our new favorites. I also developed a weird new fondness toward Guarene, the village, one of the most beautiful villages in Italy according to I Borghi più belli d’Italia. Which means next time I plan to stay a few nights at the stunning Castello di Guarene – Relais & Chateaux to make sure I arrive to Osteria Imperfetta in one piece. Go!

Categories: Italy, Piedmont | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Leon’s – Fortune Favors the Brave

Posted on December 25, 2024 by Ziggy

Being a food enthusiast while living in the ‘burbs in NYC is a major handicap. There are very few places I can think of, like Chuan Tian Xia in Sunset Park that I frequent about once a year, and that is as regular as it gets for us. There’s a restaurant in Turks and Caicos that we visit more often than 99% of our favorites back at home. Our appreciation of a large number of cuisines, and craving for the new and exciting is largely responsible. The list of places I want to try just about doubles every year.

That’s why it feels strange visiting places I truly admire like Foxface Natural, Werkstatt, Pig & Khao, Pure Thai Cookhouse and so many others without a doctor’s note explaining my absence. Freak paragliding accident in Switzerland. Chest contusion while rescuing baby elephants in Chiang Mai. I can generate a list for each place.

One way to fix this and get my immediate attention is for one of the chefs I admire to open a new place. One month old Leon’s is the latest from Anton’s “mom & pop”, Natalie Johnson and Nick Anderer. According to EWZ historians, Anderer’s name has been mentioned here 10 times between Maialino, Marta, Martina, and Anton’s. That means an obvious exception to the rule of waiting at least a year before trying a new place. I gave the dude a month.

If Leon’s feels like a place that’s been a year in the making, it’s because it was. “Mom and pop” second acts usually dont exist, not to mention as ambitious as this. Sprawling, high ceiling, and smack in the middle of it all on Broadway near Union Square. Technically just outside of East Village, though for the purpose of this blog its in East Village. I realize there’s no “Greenwich Village” category here and changing category names on WordPress is as complicated as rent negotiations. Rarely something interesting opens in the village that’s not in west or east.

Everything about Leon’s is daring. The space has been abandoned for many years. It’s open all day including breakfast. Even the name is gutsy. NYC has almost as many businesses named Leon’s as Ray’s Pizza. The menu is somewhat of a gamble as well, but if anyone can pull this off, its this team. Italian by nature with an Egyptian and French twist. Egyptian, to honor Natalie’s heritage. French, to honor Anderer showing off!

We started with some of the best cold cuts I’ve had in NYC in recent memory. A sweet and aromatic Bresaola with a very pleasant aftertaste. A more delicate, fatty, peppery, not quite Mortadella, Salame Rosa from Berkeley. Try them without the bread first for the full experience. A free Focaccia with quality EVOO. Almost a rarity in NYC these days.

A couple of items where we played my favorite new game, “Guess the Falafel”. The answer is the balls sitting on Tehini sauce of course, but even that may not be real Falafel according to purists. Its the Egyptian version which means Fava Beans instead of Chickpeas. While it may not convert the purists, it’s delicious. With that said, the light, airy Eggplant Boulettes with the creamy tomato sauce is the clear winner in this Schweddy Balls contest.

Another winner is the silky smooth Tuna Carpaccio with capers and fried shallots. Although, I cant help but wonder what it will taste like with a hint or two of pink peppercorns and less oil. This is off the “Mare” section of the Antipasti which sent me back to the coasts of Puglia.

Choosing pastas at an Anderer establishment is like choosing between your children. At the moment its the oldest since she calls more often, and for that reason I chose the Busiate. Pretty much what you expect, a simple but satisfying tomatoee Pistou Rouge with Almonds. Trapanese with a French touch. Fettuccine with Bolognese al Pastore was a lesson in proper ragu. Meaty, rich goodness that left us debating whether to get more bread to properly Scrarpetta that thing.

There’s also a Pasta con le Sarde on the menu, a rare Sicilian classic. Sicily is the one region with a big Arab influence, hence represented at Leon’s. There’s also Spaghetti with Madagascar Cacio e Pepe. If you havent smelled Madagascar peppercorns, you havent lived life to the fullest. Another dish I’d like to try soon is the Brick Chicken Baharat. If you havent tried Anderer’s chickens at Maialino, Marta, and Anton’s, you havent, well, you know. Go!

Leon’s
817 Broadway (E 12th)
Recommended Dishes: Salame Rosa, Bresaola, Eggplant Boulettes, Tuna Carpaccio, Busiate, Fettuccine Bolognese al Pastore

Categories: East Village, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Chi Restaurant & Bar – Devilish Heat in Hell’s Kitchen

Posted on November 16, 2024 by Ziggy

Extremely large menus, showy instagrammable dishes, multiple truffle dishes is generally a turnoff for me when it comes to Chinese food. Avoid, avoid, avoid. In Hell’s Kitchen especially, the best food is so often found in unassuming places that dont welcome you with chandeliers and mini skirts. This is why it took me over a year to finally try this buzzy Chinese. Besides, just about all my favorite unassuming places in HK are now closed (enter winking, tongue out, wacky emoji).

But sometimes you just have to trust the reviews, and go with your gut. After staring at Chi pictures for longer than I’d like to admit, my gut told me, try it. Maybe I should treat food research just like food supplements and medicine. Consume with food. Best time to go food shopping is on a full stomach, they say. That didnt help me at Costco yesterday. I had no idea I was into Biscotti bigger than my head. How do I even dip this monster.

Simply put, Chi is terrific, and I was wrong to question it. In fact, its some of the best Chinese I’ve had in Hell’s Kitchen in years. The menu reads as if they had a meeting, and the person in charge said yes to every single suggestion. Soup dumplings? Yes! How about other Dim Sum items? Why not, in fact lets have a section. How about some Szechuan? Hmm, its tough to choose, lets do all of them including seafood. Ooh, how about pork belly presented like a pyramid. YAS!!!!! Oh, you may not like this one but how about some American dishes like Chicken with Broccoli. Duh! Its America, lets have another section including two different General Tso’s for good measure.

The space is attractive, comfortable, and the prices are fair. Friendly, spot-on service with one noteworthy feature, important to me. When it was time to pay, the waitress whipped the machine from her pocket, informed me of the cost, and we settled on the spot. Something very common in Europe, but not so much in the US. One of my biggest pet peeves is when they finally give me the check after begging for it for 20 minutes, they assume I need another 20 minutes to examine the three items on it.

As for the food, not a dud in the house. Every visit should start with their Cucumber salad. Doesnt sound exciting, but trust uncle Ziggy. It’s chunkier than the typical, and it comes with the kind of vinegar you’ll want to drink like a smoothy. Being a decent size, it may last throughout the entire meal, and with all the heat that will follow, you’ll appreciate it. It went well with everything we ate.

Another thing you’ll appreciate is the Dan Dan Noodles. The theme at Chi is not being shy with the ingredients. Nothing is dull, and nothing overpowering. The peanut and chili here pop just enough. Eggplant with garlic sauce was pretty much what you expect from a place like this. Again, big flavors. The only issue was that it needed some time to cool off. 20 minutes later it still hurt so good.

Similar story with the Chongquing Spicy Chicken. Unlike others we had lately, plenty of Mala, pleasant heat, and the chicken is properly cut, bone-in. Sometimes they cut them too small and all you taste is Mala. For nostalgic reasons we felt like trying one of the General Tso’s, “Lao-Gan-Ma General Tso’s”. Nicely cooked, spicier than usual. Just wish the balls were a little smaller. Go!

Chi Restaurant & Bar
492 9th Ave (37th, Hell’s Kitchen)
Recommended Dishes: Cucumber salad, Dan Dan Noodles, Eggplant with garlic sauce, Chongquing Spicy Chicken, Lao-Gan-Ma General Tso’s

Categories: Midtown West, New York City | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

Ginger and Lemongrass – Pig and Khao Light

Posted on November 7, 2024 by Ziggy

Yes, I hate the title too. A successful Southeast Asian restaurant owned by a woman from, you guessed it, Prague, offering some of the best and boldest soups in the business, among other deliciousness. And this no name blogger calls it P&K light. The nerve. The menu doesnt even resemble P&K. In fact I cant think of one dish they have in common. So why does it feel like P&K light so much.

The story, the location, the cuisine. Similarly to Leah Cohen, Petra Rickman also spent significant time in Southeast Asia learning the craft of cooking. They both own two Southeast Asian restaurants (Rickman recently opened a Mexican place called Taco Azul). Rickman’s Manhattan restaurant and Cohen’s flagship are very close to each other. Plenty of similarities, with Leah Cohen being much more famous, and P&K more daring and elevated, hence “Light”

That’s not to say Ginger and Lemongrass is a lesser version of Pig and Khao. The two are still very different. Ginger and Lemongrass is more accessible, offering an ambitious, yet simple menu, with a killer soup lineup. Just about everything I had at Ginger and Lemongrass over the years was executed well, especially one particular soup.

In the early days, when G&L opened 6 years ago, to me it was a great place to go for soup. A comfortable place you go to clean your sinuses when its freezing outside. I quickly settled on the Spicy Coconut Lemongrass soup that fits my taste like the 10 year old shoes you only wear when no one is around because it has giant holes. It has just the kind of balance you look for in a spicy Asian soup. Get it with Five Spice Beef Brisket or chicken.

It feels like G&L has become more well rounded over the years. Many reviewers rave about the spring and summer rolls but its something I rarely order anywhere. The wings here are serviceable. Could have been more tender and juicy, but the sweet and spicy sauce make up for much of it.

In addition to a whole lineup of rolls, sandwiches, salads, they now have Thai style curries of all colors with your choice of protein. The green curry is a little thicker than the typical Thai curry, but the flavor is spot on. But my favorite discovery last time was the Shaken Beef (Bo luc lac). I order Bo luc lac pretty much wherever I see it in Vietnamese places, and this is a good version. Nice and complex with that pepper lime dressing, onions, and potatoes. Even the rice they serve with the dishes is delicious.

The Thai Iced Tea here will get you hooked from the start but it’s a bit heavy with the condensed milk. Overall, light or not, Ginger and Lemongrass is a solid choice for lunch, dinner, first date, Bar Mitsvah, and post election blues. Go!

Ginger and Lemongrass
153 Rivington St (Lower East Side)
Recommended Dishes: Wings, Spicy Coconut Lemongrass soup, Shaken Beef, Green curry

Categories: Lower East Side, New York City | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

Spice Brothers – Latest From the Spice Master

Posted on October 11, 2024 by Ziggy

I keep passing by La Boite deep in the boondocks of Hell’s Kitchen, looking at the front window, searching for any signs of life. The spice blend store used by many chefs around the city (like myself!) has been closed for about a year now. I know, I know, I can buy them online, but the ability to smell them online hasnt made it to the US. Maybe Silicon Valley is working on it, but I’m not ready to spend thousands on VR headsets that will allow me to smell Sumac.

La Boite is owned by Lior Lev Sercarz, an author, and classically trained chef with an extensive Michelin resume. But unlike many Michelin graduates, instead of opening restaurants, Lior took a totally different path. High quality spice blending. Chefs around the world, like Eric Ripert collaborated with Sercarz to produce spice blends, and I cant quite think of any such spice source in the city. The excellent SOS Chefs in East Village comes to mind, but thats for pure spices, especially of the rare kind.

Last September Sercarz opened Spice Brothers with David Malbequi, a fellow Boulud alum, in East Village. Still, not a full service restaurant, but a fast casual Middle Eastern offering high quality Shawarma, Sabich, Hummus and other goodies. All obviously using La Boite spice blends. So expect your fries for example to be far from ordinary. Thicker “Steak Fries” wedges dusted with one of my favorite La Boite blends, Shabazi (cilantro, chili, garlic, lemon).

You dont get much of a say as to what goes inside your Shawarma, which I actually like. But at the same time I havent tried to change anything so I may be spreading misinformation. You just have to choose between Shawarma West (Chicken) and East (Beef and Lamb). Both are spiced accordingly of course, and come loaded with fresh veggies, herbs, Tehina and the Amba, the sharp Mango condiment that goes really well with Shawarma. Though the best condiment may be their homemade Harissa that comes inside the West Shawarma, and better yet as a side with the order of the fries.

Sabich is one of the only vegetarian sandwiches I eat reguarly, and its another winner at Spice Brothers. Fried eggplant, hard boiled eggs, and of course more Tehina and Amba. The falafel is good, but closer to the typical herb heavy falafel, except that its on another crisp level. I didnt try the Hummus yet, nor the lone dessert. In East Village, the dessert options are stupendous these days.

You got your usual options of bowl, Laffa and more. I’d go for the Pita over Laffa here. They can easily divide both. Every sauce like the excellent Z’hug can be ordered for $1. Regulars on EWZ are well too familiar with my love for Z’hug. Its guaranteed to make anything taste better. But everything at Spice Brothers is worth a try. Besides finding yourself at one of the coolest streets in NYC. Go!

Spice Brothers
110 St Marks Pl (1st/A, East Village)
Recommended Dishes: Chicken Shawarma, Falafel, Sabich, Fries

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