Posts Tagged With: Druze Cuisine NYC

Taboonia – From Usfiya With Love

When you come across Taboonia off 6th ave just inside Nomad, it looks like just another random fast food joint, a pizzeria even. But its so much more than that. Not only it’s NYC’s second Druze restaurant (first fast casual), but it comes with a tragic underlying story. Raif Rashed, one of the owners was a survivor of the Nova Festival on Oct 7. While he lived in the US, he happened to be in Israel at the time, and agreed to help his brother operate a food stall called Taboonia at the festival. I will spare you the many tragic details except that they both survived.

Opening Taboonia, and introducing Americans to traditional Druze cooking is part of the healing process. When I used to run food tours, one of the stops on the Hell’s Kitchen tour was Gazala Place, our first Druze establishment. I enjoyed talking about the Druze, their believes and the famous Druze hospitality. The same hospitality we experienced in 2012 in Usfiya where Rashed is from. Gazala came from Daliyat El-Carmel, the sister Druze village right next to Usfiya, just outside of Haifa. The tray below is how we got treated at the Druze house.

Our Druze Plate in Usfiya

Taboonia has some things in common, but very different than Gazala which eventually opened a place at the Upper West Side, and closed the original in Hell’s Kitchen during the pandemic. I have vivid memories of walking on 9th ave, seeing Gazala through the window cook that paper thin bread on a Saj oven. I miss her Hummus the most, and that bread was perfect for that.

Taboonia is a lot more low key, but same big heart. You are immediately greeted with some of the best spiced Chai you’ll ever have. I just asked him for the “best of” and the result was glorious. Manakish, essentially Druze pizza with Za’atar, similar to what we had in Usfiya. “Pita Labneh” featuring that thin flat Druze Saj bread stuffed with Tabule, egg, Labneh, and Harissa finished on the Saj oven. I recommend cutting by two instead of three like we did. Outstanding! Even the Potato Bourekas was fresh and excellent.

It’s one of those places where it may not even occur to you that its all vegetarian. All freshly made and solid ingredients throughout. Even the olives were delicious to this olives hater. The location is fine, depending on who you ask. Its fairly central, but the immediate area is mainly of the wholesale variety, though the area is changing. Go!

Taboonia
832 6th Ave, (29th)
Recommended Dishes: Pita Labneh, Bourekas, Manakish

Categories: Chelsea, Gramercy, Flatiron, New York City | Tags: , , , , | Leave a comment

Walk in the Park Part 3 – Dinner at Gazala’s

Gazala's HummusThe trilogy conclusion you were so anxiously waiting for.  Part 1 is here.  Part 2 is here

****Spoiler Alert****:  The killer is the hummus!

Although I’ve been to Gazala’s Place in Hell’s Kitchen probably more than 20 times, I never actually met Gazala herself, the hardest working woman in showbiz.  That’s because she is hardly ever there.  A few years after opening tiny Gazala’s Place she opened this Upper West Side flagship where she spends most of the time.  To finally meet her and see her in action was as thrilling to me as meeting Michael White, or Bobby Flay.  She is a woman of few words, and all business in that kitchen.

Gazala'sThankfully for us, Gazala chose the al-Juhhāl  (loosely translates to “the Ignorant”) way of life in the Druze village near Haifa, Israel where she grew up.  It essentially means she chose the non-religious way, which meant among other things, she is free to travel and in this case, spread the word about the Druze.  The word is Hospitality.  When you visit a Druze village like we did in Israel a few years ago (coincidentally Gazala’s sister village), you are welcomed and greeted with warmth warmer than your aunt Sally.  And so much of that welcome is conveyed via what I can only describe as Trays of heaven.  No way aunt Sally can cook like this

Treys of heaven started flowing in very quickly at Gazala’s by the usual army of Russian waiters/waitresses I’ve come to know over the years.  Don’t be fooled by the “Asian” looking waitresses, as they are also Russian.  For some reason, perhaps a misunderstanding with the agency Gazala works with, other than the cooks, she only employs Russian workers at both branches.  A fine Labneh (goat cheese) with Zaat’ar spices to start the party.  The Bourekas (flaky pastry) is top notch as usual.  They call it the “Boureka of the day” but we all know they always have the Cheese/Sun Dried Tomato which is what I usually get, Cheese/Spinach, and on occasion the Cheese/Mushroom.  This is the only place where I order this as I’m not normally fond of the Bourek/Bourekas.  Fresh Israeli salad, and surprisingly punchy meat cigars were in the starters mix.Gazala's Bourekas

Here me now and listen to me yesterday (an old SNL joke for the uninformed, or “Ignorant”).  As I’ve said before many times, this is my favorite Hummus in town.  Freshly made daily, it has that perfect creamy texture and that extra oomph that I’ve only had in Israel.  Nish Nush makes a fine rendition, the Hummus Kitchen chain produces a good one, but this is still the one.  I can taste it as I’m writing this.

The big meat platter, Moshokal, with lamb, chicken & kafta kebab with rice delivered strong flavors, perhaps with the exception of the slightly bland lamb.  The Date cookies and the Baklava we got by mistake were fine but perhaps the biggest discovery this time was a pair of Yogurt puddings charged with oranges and rosewater called Osh Al-Saraia.  A heavenly finish at heavenly Gazala’s

Gazala’s
380 Columbus Ave
$$
Recommended Dishes: Hummus (plain or with chickpeas), falafel, Bourekas, grilled chicken, Osh Al-Saraia

Gazala's Meat Cigars Gazala's Israeli Salad Gazala's Moshakal Gazala's Osh Al-Saria

 

 

 

Categories: New York City, Upper West Side | Tags: , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

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