This is going to be quick. I think. I often say that and end up writing life stories that have nothing to do with the post. But this time I will make it my mission. Besides, there’s not much to show and tell in this case. We took plenty of other pictures, but as I will explain, I rather not show them. A first on EWZ. Restaurant photos that are not safe for work.
When you enter this legend, about 10km north of Coimbra, you will notice that every table has pretty much the same items. A huge plate of Suckling Pig with sliced oranges, a bubbly, French fries, and some veggies. French fries is something you’ll find all over Portugal, outside of haute joints. A churrascaria without potatoes is an experiment gone horribly wrong.
This is suckling pig country, and Rui dos Leitões might be its emperor. The only decision is how much pig. One kg was perfect for two hungry couples (including one hangry guide) on a late lunch on the way to Tomar. They do have what seems to be a full menu, but after around 3pm and before dinner time, I’m told you can only get the pig and the usual sides. While most whites, and certain reds will do, a popular pairing here is Spumante.
Lets just say Segovia is now home to our second favorite Suckling Pig. Segovia was the complete experience, with plenty of theatre. But Rui dos Leitões dished out a sensational tasting pieces of meat, without the dramatics. Since they let the pigs mature to 5 weeks, you get much more of the juicy flesh than Segovia where it’s mostly crispy skin of the much younger pigs. Younger pig means milkier flesh, and not enough of it. The oranges serve as a palate cleanser.
We finished with a tour of the ovens where we took the pictures I struggle with. If there are any images that may make me stop eat meat, these may be it. Ask for a tour after the meal. This is just the type of place that complements any Portugal food itinerary nicely. After you finish sucking the bones at Zé Manel dos Ossos in Coimbra (I believe owner recently passed), Uber your way to Rui dos Leitões for an experience you’ll be talking about for a long time.
Eating With Ziggy 